3D Printer Pressure Washer with GEAR PUMPS - Part 2
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ส.ค. 2021
- PCBWay Your 3D & CNC One-Stop Solution: www.pcbway.com/activity/4th-p...
My next attempt is to build a pressure washer, building four gear pumps, connect outlets together, and, is this pressure washer? I have a whole detailed video for these gear pumps.
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Gear pump video: • External GEAR PUMP - 3...
FREE 3D PRINTING FILES (For GEAR PUMP): thangs.com/Lets-Print/Body1-2...
775 DC Mount: thangs.com/Lets-Print/Body2-2...
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775 DC motor: ali.ski/D-fmz
Brass hose nozzles: ali.ski/ck0BPg
O rings: ali.ski/U9HrST
Bearings: ali.ski/SRoUy
Tube: ali.ski/8sxeaN
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Put them in series or stages. You need more pressure not more flow :)
But, by definition pressure is resistance to flow.
Exactly what I wanted to say... Putting them in a series should increase the pressure significantly.
@@SeabornNomad Yes but it is not so easy. This is for the static case but this is dynamic. The limiting factor was maybe never the flow. Imagine a pump that can lift water 1m. Even if you put 5 pumps in parallel and therefore have 5 times the flow you wont get more pressure even if the resistance (height) is the same. Often high pressure pumps work more like compressors with excentric rotators or swashplate designs and with complicated valves to maintain the pressure.
Another design idea would be a centrifugal pump where you restrict the inlet flow and use the power to increase pressure. There are some nice designs on thingiverse
I agree, you should try series, in an ideal world having 3 in parallel you are getting 3 times the flow with the same pressure for 1 pump, while 3 in series would give you instead 3 times the pressure with the same flow for 1 pump. The world isn't ideal though, so parallel you probably will get some more pressure over 1 pump while not quite getting 3 times the flow, but the pressure won't exceed the max pressure of 1 pump, and the opposite will also be true for series, though using as a pressure washer is probably closer to the ideal world scenario for series then it would be for parallel. I will note you kind of already tried series using the house water system for the inlet.
Try gaskets to help with the leaks. And like Alex said - series not parallel. I think it will really help!
Ya series setup would constantly step up pressure , losing a bit of volume each step . The ports could be larger on the first pump and steps down incrementally to the final size to help with the flow loss . I have years of experience machining hydraulic pumps . Pressure washers are usually a bunch of small piston pumps parralled up for flow .
Oh and the inlet of the pumps should be larger than the output to help with effeciency and flow .
Yeah series
@@turboprint3d don't forget if he mounts them in series the 3rd-4th stage housing will fail...
I agree best reference would be a medical home oxygen compressor
You know, further improvement can still be made. We need part 3 of this
We really need it
i think his build just for videos, he doesn't listen improvement suggested
@@rama3njoy really?
you need to connect them in series! to increase the pressure!
exactly. A single pump on its own had more that enough flow rate, what it lacks is pressure. Putting them all in parallel won't net much pressure increase as the inlet-outlet pressure delta is going to be about the same, so reverse leakage & lack of flow will be the same (so no net improvement). When series together, they should compound their inlet-outlet capability.
@@nickldominator do this! we are waiting!
try Teflon tape for the screw-in fittings, really helps with leaking and is super cheap.
yea came here to post this, you should generally always wrap your male pipe threads in teflon tape to mitigate leakage, especially in a high pressure application, there is some grease that is more effective at leaks but i'm not sure if that holds true at higher pressures, also more expensive. also idk about doing them all in series, because i'm not sure how the prints will hold up to that. i would try 2 series of 2 in parallel
Love the fact that you show that progress and improvements come after failing. People only want to show succes and that makes young people demotivated when stuff doesn’t work after the first time.
You demonstrate the true story towards succes in your videos, by showing failure and how to turn that into improvement, and finally succes.
Keep up the good work!
Лайк вам за момент клей! Этот клей как синяя изолента, никогда не бывает мало :D
I love your content! Thanks for this.
By the way, the “brass thing” is called a manifold in English. 😃
3:54 Have you tried using grooves for the O-rings with the correct size groove and O-ring it should not push out the side and seal alot better
Projects are getting better and videos are getting better. Nice one.
Series or a one way valve for each is the way to go. The back pressure from the other pumps will greatly reduce the efficiency and power of each individual pump in parallel.
I‘m an electrical engineer and you showing what is hard here makes me value good working mechanical and hydraulic solutions more.
Bro... " the leaking yo I'm so tired of this shit" caught me of guard and caused a chuckle. Enjoyed the video
I love this pressure washer series ahahaha. Great Job. If I remember correctly from my engineering class at the university the fluid should travel on the outer perimeter of the gears not where the two gears meet. Maybe this can help improve your design ☺️
I watched a few of your videos but this series is one of my favorites. I get the frustrations, more so with the leaking but it is a fresh air to see someone post even when things don't work. With other videos it either works perfectly or some bs excuse to call it good enough. These videos are real and show real experimentation. Keep it up.
I am a small engine mechanic and I have worked on and repaired many pressure washer pumps,
It is often misconceived that the pressure pump creates suction. It is called a pressure pump because it creates pressure and creates little to no suction at all.The water is pushed into a chamber with a piston vs being sucked in by vacuum. (usually, pressure washers using a multi-stage piston pump lubricated by water)
Try a downstream pump to supply a small pressure of water to your primary pump/pumps and doing them in stages and you may see a huge increase in pressure.Just a thought idea.
That’s how engineering and science works man, test and failure, test and success.
99% fails, 1% success, but the fun part is to do the tests and learn from everything you make.
Awesome video, I’ve seen every single video in you channel and I love it, keep on that!
That is trial and error. Not engineering and science.
@@thelazycat_
Science is all about trial and error.
Plumbers tape/ ptfe tape for all threaded connections! Rtv gasket maker for pump body parts!
That is your key for stopping those leaks, both can be found at any hardware/ automotive store!
Upvote so he sees please
Hey bud, found your videos recently, your editing and humour is very enjoyable to watch! Please, please do a part 3 with the pumps in series like others are suggesting! Maybe put the most leaky pump first in the series...
Also, print the connection parts with the resin printer as well, and between the pumps you should use left/right threads to connect them directly in between each other.
With an printed external gearing you could run all of them with one motor.
Make sure the water pressure on the suction side is high enough. It seems you have cavitation when using these pumps from the bucket. At 7:09 you can even see the pressure side of the pumps contains bubbles as the water is not clear.
When using the water pressure from your house this cavitation effect is solved or at least reduced. At 08:20 there are almost no bubbles in the pressure side. Reducing the pump speed can also reduce the cavitation. It might be that when using the bucket, these pumps work way better when they are placed electrical in series and run slower but without cavitation.
Putting these pumps in series for the water flow and using water from your house as the start should improve the pressure as already mentioned by others. Not sure if this will ever be enough to have a great pressure washer though.
Keep making these fun videos.
The part at the end with you being real about the outcome made me laugh. I can empathize with your experience.
It is a volume pump right now. All the motors and pumps are in parallel. Try putting them in series. High pressure pumps for wild-firefighting known as Wajax use an impeller to pump water.
You should really put a gasket out of a material made from aramid fibres between the upper and lower parts of your pump mount. Someone in the comments also said that you can use a teflon tape for screw-in fittings. I would recommend that and as an alternative - "oakum". These are hemp fibers that are used in hydraulics. Don't forget to use the paste while utilizing those hemp fibers. We would all love to see part 3 with those improvements.
Best regards
Thanks for this great video. I guess it could be a good idea to measure the pressure in the outlet and compare that with the topical values o pressure for a commercial washer.
You're right on the cusp of having a functional system. To have a 100% operational system here's a full list (prices are local and in Canadian dollar):
Teflon tape (~$2). Put it on anything with a thread. Since you're working with pressurized water the water will make its way out, which means less pressure and damaged electronics. Also you don't need much, 2-3 *clockwise* wraps is more than enough. It's gotta be clockwise so it gets drawn deeper in, going the other way will cause it to bunch up and you'll actually get a worse seal.
Liquid gasket (~$10). Run a continuous bead on any butting surfaces, for example the acrylic cover plate to the housing. You don't need too much of it either, just a single continuous line about as think as fine yarn (~1mm thick). It doesn't have to be perfect, all you need is an unbroken ring that goes the whole way around. Just make sure not too much gets squished inside the pump as an excess will simply destroy the impeller/gears.
A reserve tank (I'd just print one honestly). You only need a small tank, a liter er two is more than enough. The design is easy as it gets: you want a completely sealed vessel with the inlet and outlet both on the bottom and with a one way valve. The reason you want them both on the bottom is so a bubble of air gets trapped in there. Since water can't be compressed you need something in there that can, which is what the air is in there for. As water gets pumped in the air gets squished, that way when you pull the trigger you have something to force the water out. The tip of the pressure washing gun is tiny, by restricting the flow at the nozzle the velocity of the water has to increase BUT the water has to have some pressure behind it or else it won't increase is velocity and will instead just trickle out.
A pressure relief valve ($10-$20). I can't stress enough that it would be VERY wise to install a pressur relief valve on the top of your tank. If a situation arises were your water pumps keep pushing in water and the outlet hose in blocked then there's a serious risk of it exploding. I'm not talking about some little fire cracker either... this would go off with A LOT of power, not exaggerating when I say there's real possibility that it could be deadly.
Lastly you'll want a water pressure switch (digital are ~$15 but hard to work with, I'd go for the ~$30-$40 analog one). You'll want one that's normally close too, so when the pressure is low it switches to the on position and when a certain pressure is reached it turns off. You'll want this installed right after your tank. You'll want to wire your pumps up to this switch, and then connect the switch to a power supply. This way when you turn it on the switch will detect low pressure, kick on the pumps until a certain amount of pressure has built up, then turn them off. Since the pressure switch is set up right between the tanks and the sprayer when you pull the trigger it will immediately detect the drop in pressure and kick the pumps on, so you'll never have to worry about running out of pressure.
Your whole set up should go water source -> pumps -> tank (with a f*cking pressure release valve!) -> pressure switch -> sprayer. Skipping a step without compensating for it some other way just simply won't work ie. You could go tankless, but you'd need a specialized pump... one that's far byoned the scope of this project.
Ouch! Watching you screwing the brass pipe fittings together without Teflon tape is causing me physical pain! 😂. Love your videos!
Best to tape up the motor when grinding the shaft, as the shavings get sucked in by the magnets.
If I may assist you with my experience. I recommend making the inlet 50% larger than outlet. Also at some point check valves would be handy and an inlet strainer for each pump.
You could also print the parts with an oring groove that will help to seal and the bulk oring material can be cut to length and the ends super glued together. I made a tool to help make the cuts in the oring nice and straight and helps to align the ends for precise gluing. Let me know if you'd like me to send an stl for the tool. Petg is nice because nothing wants to stick to petg except printer nozzles and more petg so super glue comes right off and oring doesn't stick to it. For pd pumps a small weep hole connected to a slightly indented path around the ends of the gear will help keep the ends wetted and helps them not to wear and also reduces rotational friction and heat.
This job requires much more torque. Like a bigger motor and a reduction gear box for added torque to get the pressure up.
Like maybe put 2 of those motors on one pump with double the inlet diameter. You'll see a much bigger difference when you open up that inlet.
Love your videos.
I think the junction inlets at 45° s might increase the power. As you don't have any non return valve if any pump is less powerful than the average that might get a negetive flow too so vectoring the pressure might help.
Great video!
Even if it doesn't work how you expected, content is still very very enjoyable!
Without seeing the pressure washer wand connected only to your house water system, as I think that's where most if not all your pressure is coming from. I have a 2-stroke pressure washer. With the engine off and connected to the house water system, the wand sprays the same as yours.
Looking forward to the video with them in series.
The pressure washer restricts flow which produces pressure. To overcome the pressure you need additional torque. The tiny motors wouldn't be enough to suffice however the profe of concept works and in my opinion works well. Next time try printing one large gear pump same set up and use a 24v dc motor 800 watt or larger. You should expect a flow similar to a typical house well pump and a pressure of at least 35-40 psi, enough to do work. Thanks for the video!
Try adding a groove for an o ring that will help for sealing high pressure.
If you install a thrust bearing into the end of the drive gear in a recess it will help with the friction problem.
I have a few thoughts mentioned before and possibly new. Pumps operated in series, rubber gaskets, using bolts instead of screws, wrapping them in plumbers thread seal tape, and maybe using a 1/6 hp electric motor, which are usually just above 100 euro new, maybe 50 euro used, at least in my experience.
I had a real nice laugh at 08:23 😂 awesome video
Seal the brass fittings with hemp(teflon works aswell but hemp is natural product and works just as well if not better) and 3d the printed parts with gaskit maker
Good work!
Series you add the head together Htot = Hpump1 + Hpump2 +Hpump3 + Hpump4
Pressure tot = Htot x density x gravity
Parallel you get higher flow
Qtot =Qpump1 + Qpump2 +Qpump3 +Qpump4
Ofcourse there are losses, your main losses in your system is due to leakage, use a resin printer instead of an extrusion printer and include gaskets and oring where necessary.
Your parralel system can be optimized, however series is the way to go when you want more lift.
Maybe try using 2 pumps in series and 3 sets of those, and if you can eliminate the leak and use a faster motor you will get even higher pressure. Another good way would be to reduce the size of the brass outlet coupler thing and a smaller hose
I look forward to part 3 next year!
May I suggest investigating peristaltic pumps? You're basically pinching a flexible hose with a roller in a motion similar to squeezing toothpaste. Might be cheaper to make and less likely to leak because the fluid never leaves the tube.
I love your content. I'll build 1 of dose pumps to
Basic configuration of pressure washers use pistons. I think you could 3d print those easily and make some sort of one-way valve for them. Because of that jet in that spray handle, you need more pressure not flow. If you remove that nozzle on real pressure washer, you can see that it doesnt actually flow as much as you would think. You could use basic seals for the pistons and make spring-actuated release valve for longer idling times. You could 3d print camshaft like shaft, or use shaft with a flat in angle so the change in stroke isnt so immediate, smoother like.
did you try connecting the pumps in series?
Love your vids man:))) try to build a high capacity gear pump that car run dry. Then you can use it as a supercharger!
Still pretty neat and it's always worth testing the boundaries of what's, possible with 3d printing.
Was this filmed last year?
I love your honest comments. Really made me laugh
Hey print good to see you after 2 week bro 😃😄☺️
Teflon can help with stopping the leakage in the threaded joints, specially at hight preasure or flow rates
At least it's not a clickbait...
Good job 😁👍
If you look up how triplex pumps work that would greatly improve pressure output.
You should use 3 Y shaped connectors for the tubes! I bet it’ll give a lot more power like that, instead for using the 4 nozzle connector. The issue I think with the 4 noddle connector is that all the water is coming in at a 90 degree angle. If the water was coming in at a 45 degree angle, I bet it would work much better!
Like batteries, if you want higher voltage (pressure), you put the pumps in series.
Always found the exchange of the word "which" for "what" really funny.
fairly sure without much experience a [V]configuration in your manifold would prevent back pressure and would direct flow much better, you can 3d print it with resin .
[V] formed like this , stacked . you could also print it so your able to add more hoses as you wish .
Your English acsent is absolutely fabulous.
Hey I love your videos, congrats on the great ideas you have! I can't help but wonder if you could make an insanely big gear pump, like 15 centimetres in diameter for the inlet and outlet, and respectfully wide gears. Also will this pump work and how will it perform ?
I honestly think it might just be the motors also. don't forget, pressure washers are usually 2kw+, and sometimes even use actual gas motors. you can hear the motors bog down here as well, which I think confirms my suspicion, and really I think you had a very nice design.
Perhaps buy a few cheap wood saws or something like that, they come with 1kw+ motors and can plug straight into mains. there's also the concern of torque though so maybe something else with a geared down motor.
for the leaking maybe just use some strong epoxy instead. or actual gaskets. acrylic is also unlikely to stand up to the pressures you're looking to achieve - it probably won't break but water will leak out through the bolt holes and the pressure might even strip the threads a little, even on thick acrylic.
I know waterjets use a piston pump mechanism, so that might be fun to try if you find you can do it practically.
also nice screen.
great video!
To much waited for this video
BIGGER, MAKE IT BIG, it would be awesome to see one 2 or 3 times bigger
Never seen a waterpump on this channel that does not leak horribly.
its a great work, you need to fix the loss of water before the output, because all the preasure that you make loss in this filtrations. For the water you can make bucket with the outputs in the bottom for have allways water and have an initial preasure.
Should have put Teflon tape on the threads before assembling, the tape will help with leaks, also gasket maker will help with sealing the pumps. I’d suggest putting a thin bead then press the parts together gently and after 30 min to an hour crank em down, they’ll seal a lot better with it in place
Put the pumps in series like one after the other so it builds up pressure from pump to pump adjust the power to each pump accordingly I just got done trying at myself and it works great actually usable for work except for the power consumption and I don't know how long it would last if you're actually using it as a pressure washer
Telflon tape is your friend also motor shaft seal?
If you put them in series it will up pressure.
As you an see, the volume is not the problem but the pressure. You need to put the pumps in multiple stages to increase the pressure. Just remove the 1=>4 plenum and instead run the pumps in series and you should have enough pressure to adjust to the 15° nozzle size
I think that you should address the leaking by modifying your pump housing with a slot for a 3d printed (with TPU) gasket. That would help A LOT.
Plug them into each other. That nozzle on the pressure washer handle is tiny, so it doesn't move lots of water. But what you need to do is plug the output of one pump into the input of another. Also get some gaskets! I suggest you find sheets of thin cork and take scissors and cut around the housing of your pumps! Should leak less then!
Plumb the pumps in series and use actual silicone for the seals. Alternatively make a grove into the design that will squeeze a large o-ring
Also, keep the flux rings on the motors :) they help and are not useless
the main thing you need is 1 way high presure valves that wai the motors dont work aginst eachother, but idk i havent take fluid dynamics yet
You mentioned that PCB Way does light metal fab.
Exploit in the chase for that seal.
Then, run a much larger one of these with your "v6" 775 motor ;) (Perhaps gear it for a bit more speed too?)
You will also want to use a you should make the parts out of ABS and then use acetone to weld the pieces together. you will also want a pump shaft seal on the motor shaft.
Can't wait for part 3
Sorry, I keep hearing you say "gear bum" I can't help but find it funny. It took me a moment to realize you are saying pump, not bum. Anyway, really cool stuff though. Looks like alot of fun.
You just need check valves at the end of each pumps outlet.
You can probably seal the leaks with a bead of RTV silicone.
One way pressure valves between pump outlet and brass connecter?
If there is a pt3, you should fix the leaking by using good rubber seals. And you should use a brushless motor. With powerful BLDC motors you won't need that many motors. The 775 motor has torque but not very high in RPM. Try to find a BLDC motor with hight rpm and torque. These type of projects need so many attempts until you succeed.. Thats just the nature of it. Keep up.
You should try putting multiple of these pumps in series. I doubt though the acrylic will hold up anywhere close to the pressures you need for a pressure washer
Great laugh, you're a funny man. Maybe add Teflon seals to the pumps and run them in series at 24 volts
Series =more pressure
Paraller = more flow
Sealing it properly will help a lot
Dony aply silicone etc putside the screews...aply it inside because u always leak where screews are
And remember that u loose pressure at the pumps because u have to big gap on top and botton
Use somethig to seal it and u will have super strong water pump
Or just make peristaltic one
If you bump the water-pump, will the water pump stop pumping?
Pressure washers use a multiple piston pumping system, not this type of cog pump. They work pretty much like a car engine (but in pressure washers the crank rotation to axial displacement occurs in the same axis) which, by definition, is an air pump.
I see this so often, slapping on lid right after putting on silicone and tightening it to spec strait away, including youtubers that make the craziest things. You will probably get better result with it if you wait before tightening it, and try to get a somewhat even layer. Not the biggest issue if it isnt perfect, as long as there is enough make good contact with parts.
Wait and let it cure for a bit. Then, depending on what you using it for, A few mm wide\tall usually works fine. When its semi cured you squish it, it will somewhat act like a real gasket. Throwing it on, and tighten strait away you most likely just get a seal that leaks and seal is extremely thin and prone to fail. At least, this is my experience. That being said, silicone can be weird. But let it cure a bit does help allot and gives much better result in general. Also, i guess it will handle more pressure and still be air tight.
thank you for your efforts, it is informative, and I do enjoy your videos
Compound the pumps.
Ideally 3-2-1, but for you and cost reasons 2 into 1 would be easiest.
Start by fixing leaks with PTFE tape and o'rings, then plumb your water supply into two pumps, on the outlet of each of the two pumps, you'll need a one way Valve to prevent backflow, then run those two outlets into the inlet of a single pump, then again fit a one way valve to the outlet of that pump, and then attach your lance... should make up for lack of water causing cavitation and be able to move a higher weight of water
Ideally you want no pressure inside the pump at all, but it's going to be basically impossible with this setup to achieve that, so you're looking at minimising losses.
Ideally you'd want the two pumps in parallel to be (for example) 500ml each, totalling 1 litre of volume, and then the third pump, being fed by those two, would want to be around 900ml, so there's always a pressurised flow of water into that pump, hopefully preventing some cavitation.
If you wanted more pressure but didn't need the flow, you could then add another pump of a smaller size in series after that, say 500ml again. But have it running 1.9x faster to account of the higher volume feed
option 1... take off end cap, put pump 1 on there instead of tap 1, result = weaker pump is now getting its flow assisted in pull as well as push by the forward 3 = better flow as pump1 water is already traveling in the right direction.
2 add a buffer/accumulator io tank/trompe -remember there's trapped air/gas in that flow so use it for free by trompe trapping it to increase local pressure- in front, -cut an old expandable bike tire tube put in a big pipe to stop it expanding to/so much it pops- , test...
3 dip these leaky prints in 'water glass' /LIQUID SODIUM SILICATE -concrete sealer cures quick with co2 so do it when you talk to your plants lol- to properly seal the layers with a hard glass like layer -use for all other -*-practical machine 3d prints-*- too-
Thanks!
Should be 2 or 3 in series as others have said.
You dont have enugh pressure and the pressure washer is made to use high pressure and low flow. I think you might even need to halve the "chamber" of one pump so it can spin faster to get more power
Could you have them in series ,with water/air pressure vessels in between and a non return valve . That way each stage starts with a higher input pressure.
So funny, I can't stop laughing. The accent makes it even funnier. Look, on the lighter side, it's a great water pump for a water fountain, but, just not a pressure washer.
I see most people suggested putting it in series but putting it in parallel is better , i think the problem is u using those 4 fit connector. At the end pump 2 can cancel pump1 cause it spread to pump 1 and pump 2, maybe try to find a connector that doesn't have many turn, just 4 output straight to the hose without those 90° turn
for me its not able to seperate the parts out of the download .... support will be nice... thanks for your great videos
Amazing video thank you for making it
Try casing them in clear resin to prevent leaks
I agree with all the comment below, make it into series not parallel, 2 small pump feed into one slightly larger pump.. leaking problem should be easy to fix, water tape n much more silicon glue..
you should have the acrylic cover machined with a grove so you can place a rubber o-ring for a seal to keep it from leaking around the edges.
Hey buddy, you need super tight fit rubber gears and higher RPM, also, switch to a brushless motor, for example - "Gartt 5360", 4300w (max) equivalent to about twenty 775 DC motors (775 200w), I really like your channel man, great progress!
I don't know how much those actually compressor and add pressure but I was thinking like 3 of those into 1 so you have the volume but I assume that would increase pressure