You should use white lithium grease. Also, I'd put bearings on those middle gears. I'd put an outside bearing on the first gear as well. You should also look at a flat shaft so you can just match the flatness with your 3d print design and slide your gears onto the shaft. No need for set screws then because the pressure on those will warp your 3d prints, especially PLA, over time. I would also do all of the gears in nylon. I also don't think the inserts are worthwhile. Just tap the holes on the outside of the box. They'll be very strong.
I think that outside bearing for the first gear is not necessary - shaft of the motor is already supported on 2 bearings, and lining up three bearings can be quite challenging. However, I'd use metal pinion gear, from some RC car that uses 0.8 or 1 mod gears, instead of printed gear.
LMAO! I identify so hard with the part where you mess one insert up and go "oh well i can still try the other side" the proceed to have just as much trouble the second time haha...oooooh man been there soo many times, even with those heat set inserts lol!
to keep using herringbone gears and avoid interference in the middle (where the two helixes meet) you should add a small fillet on the concave side and a large fillet on the convex.
How interesting! I'm building the tri-wheel rover like in the movie "Damnation Alley" in the past 2 months. Harder than I thought. Tolerances was the bitch. I use herringbone gears, pulleys and 2mm XL belts. I love fusion 360. Worked with SolidWorks for over 10 years and will never go back to it.
Good idea with the threaded inserts. But if this is to be considered 'hobby-grade', it definitely needs a differential. Either geared or a ball-type; otherwise you're just gonna bind and really stress out those gears. And also - it'd be better to add ball bearings to all the moving parts.
I couldn't make the inserts work. They weren't strong enough and would pop out. So I put a nut in the middle, and now I can break the plastic by tightening the bolts too much. I was also told many years ago by a plastic engineer, not to use petroleum based grease on plastics, and only use white lithium grease. I complied.
You need to make the hole for the insert smaller than the insert itself. a M3 insert needs only a 3.8mm hole. You also need to make sure the hole has thick enough walls. You also need to use the correct type of insert the ones meant for injection molding are crap. Done correctly they are stronger than the alternatives. Some of Let's Print holes are too large, if the smooth part at the start of the insert fits in the hole its too big.
@@backgammonbacon The way I did it, as many others have, is to make room to insert a nut. If the bolt wants out, it either has to strip the nut, or break through 5mm of directionaly printed solid PLA. No need to buy anything extra. Which way do you thing is better?
Have you thought about using a gear oil r a atf as lube instead of grease. It’s lighter and you could fill the bottom with a inch or so and it will flow over all the gears n being lighter it might help the centrifugal drag. Idk just a thought hope it helps. I enjoy your videos
Would it not have been easier to install the threaded inserts into the various components before assembly? I guess I'll find out because I'm printing this gearbox as I speak.
Lol dude I just found your channel. Instant sub when you commented about your fail on the gear Insert 😂. We’re all human, the world needs more of that :)
"if you are thinking what a noob i am, camera was between my hands and i didn't, see shit what i'm doing and i messed this one up hard" bro that had me dying
Let's Print:- all videos of you are very sincere valuable, learning, understand pros & con's from your video itself, awesome knowledge sharing, thanks.
6:25 You can put those inserts in the freezer and they will contract a little making inserting them a little easier, once inside, you can heat it with the soldering iron to make it fit snugly. BTW great video!.
This is going to need some sort of differential front to back or you'll get drive wind-up. Unless you can account for slipping somewhere else in the system
What’s the gear ratio ? The mod or pitch diameter etc....Good job but a bit of lack of technical information. Hard to know how well this will work without knowing how much torque speed is involved...
My toughts.... 1- Why machine screws? Use wood screws...toys dont have machine screws. 2- Why Gears? Toothed pulley will wear less. 3- Why 8mm shafts? Way to oversized. 4- Make the hole on the gears (or pulley) slightly smaller than the diameter of the shaft you will use, then drill the hole with a drill bit, you will get better surface finish and less play. 5- No need for bearings on the middle bridge shafts, looks like they are very loose (shaft - gear hole)...they dont even turn on the video.
Let me know if you want a design for an electric snowblower. I have a corded version that I think would be great for me to 3d scan for you. also, my 3d scan will be pictures, but still. It's angled higher than normal to keep everything electric safe, so if you're building triangle tracks, this could work.
If you want a real nice grease for printed gears and parts grab some PTFE Magic lube by Aladdin. Real good goop and it holds nicely on just about any gear surface. I use this stuff on everything
Don't use normal grease on plastic I heard it chemically reacts with it over time, Use silicone based grease or vaseline, Other than that love this gearbox.
Methinks your iron was waaaaaayyyy too hot for the inserts, it should be just below the melting point of the material they're going in. An idea with the bearings too. They're probably fine, but there is a chance that they could work their way free being mounted on the outside. If they're mounted inside, there's no chance of them coming off to an extent that could be a problem. I'd love to see the gears printed out of nylon. Regular plastic gears are either POM (Delrin) or Nylon, for the fact they're tough, and have a very low friction coefficient. You changed one of them to nylon, but not the others. Sure, PLA is nice and all, but it's really terrible for making anything useful.
tough pla is a polymer blend that increases impact resistance, so it would be good for a bashing vehicle that sees a lot of hard acceleration. Maker's Muse has a video where he tests different materials for gear strength: th-cam.com/video/UtRJ4lnNAXY/w-d-xo.html
Not necessary spin the middle shafts and the friction is low between gear and shaft. just enough the final stage shaft spins. so he just use bearings on the final stage
chamfer the holes of your threaded inserts. Did you run a 4 cell battery through that 3 cell ESC? Too high a voltage kills anything looks like user error to me.
I love your realistic attitude. "Well I screwed this bit up, but here's how I fixed it." gg man, thanks!
I thing gg means good gearbox, highly debatable what it means tho
I love how couplings screws fly out when testing😂, good job btw
You should use white lithium grease. Also, I'd put bearings on those middle gears. I'd put an outside bearing on the first gear as well. You should also look at a flat shaft so you can just match the flatness with your 3d print design and slide your gears onto the shaft. No need for set screws then because the pressure on those will warp your 3d prints, especially PLA, over time. I would also do all of the gears in nylon. I also don't think the inserts are worthwhile. Just tap the holes on the outside of the box. They'll be very strong.
I think that outside bearing for the first gear is not necessary - shaft of the motor is already supported on 2 bearings, and lining up three bearings can be quite challenging. However, I'd use metal pinion gear, from some RC car that uses 0.8 or 1 mod gears, instead of printed gear.
@@Papinak2 Good tips
white lithium grease on plastics? really?
@@bismuth7730 Na, better use some silicone compound.
LMAO! I identify so hard with the part where you mess one insert up and go "oh well i can still try the other side" the proceed to have just as much trouble the second time haha...oooooh man been there soo many times, even with those heat set inserts lol!
to keep using herringbone gears and avoid interference in the middle (where the two helixes meet) you should add a small fillet on the concave side and a large fillet on the convex.
Yessss thank you youtube algorithm for introducing me to this channel!
I tried running the motor slowly to try not make a mess 😂😂😂😂 Love it....
I really appreciate you doing the videos in English, even though it's clearly not your native language. (=
How interesting!
I'm building the tri-wheel rover like in the movie "Damnation Alley" in the past 2 months.
Harder than I thought. Tolerances was the bitch. I use herringbone gears, pulleys and 2mm XL belts.
I love fusion 360. Worked with SolidWorks for over 10 years and will never go back to it.
Good idea with the threaded inserts. But if this is to be considered 'hobby-grade', it definitely needs a differential. Either geared or a ball-type; otherwise you're just gonna bind and really stress out those gears. And also - it'd be better to add ball bearings to all the moving parts.
“I messed this one up hard” “I couldn’t see shit what I am doin” 😂
SUBSCRIBED.
I couldn't make the inserts work. They weren't strong enough and would pop out. So I put a nut in the middle, and now I can break the plastic by tightening the bolts too much.
I was also told many years ago by a plastic engineer, not to use petroleum based grease on plastics, and only use white lithium grease. I complied.
You need to make the hole for the insert smaller than the insert itself. a M3 insert needs only a 3.8mm hole. You also need to make sure the hole has thick enough walls. You also need to use the correct type of insert the ones meant for injection molding are crap. Done correctly they are stronger than the alternatives.
Some of Let's Print holes are too large, if the smooth part at the start of the insert fits in the hole its too big.
@@backgammonbacon The way I did it, as many others have, is to make room to insert a nut. If the bolt wants out, it either has to strip the nut, or break through 5mm of directionaly printed solid PLA. No need to buy anything extra.
Which way do you thing is better?
Have you thought about using a gear oil r a atf as lube instead of grease. It’s lighter and you could fill the bottom with a inch or so and it will flow over all the gears n being lighter it might help the centrifugal drag. Idk just a thought hope it helps. I enjoy your videos
"..... i put the lid back on" LMFAO. I lost my shit so bad i couldn't stop laughing for 5 minutes. Great comedy bro. Earned my subscription!
Would it not have been easier to install the threaded inserts into the various components before assembly? I guess I'll find out because I'm printing this gearbox as I speak.
So fun to watch. And also that you make it what it is and show the fails. Keep it up 😀
Lol dude I just found your channel. Instant sub when you commented about your fail on the gear Insert 😂. We’re all human, the world needs more of that :)
1:53 do you have any special settings for the raft? It looks really clean to remove the parts but still strong and evenly hold together
Was wondering that myself. My rafts don’t look that good.
I want to know this too, never had a raft remove that easily and cleanly.
@@ferrumignis I watched a video by Chuck Hellebuck (CHEP) and he was showing some good rafts as well. I’m going to play around with it next week.
"if you are thinking what a noob i am, camera was between my hands and i didn't, see shit what i'm doing and i messed this one up hard"
bro that had me dying
You might need a bigger esc to handle the load of snow. Possibly a smaller motor. What turn is the 775?
Put bearings on all shafts, use sealed bearings, seal the case and fill it with transmission fluid.
First time seeing one of your videos, really good & didn't expect it to be this funny too 🤣
So dope also hilarious and witty narration!
Pretty fantastic work, dude! Well done! 😃
It looks like a fantastic gearbox for a crawler as well!
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Let's Print:- all videos of you are very sincere valuable, learning, understand pros & con's from your video itself, awesome knowledge sharing, thanks.
9:45 So I tried to run the gearbox slowly to not make a mess.
Gearbox: I'm about to ruin this man's whole room
“ I Didn’t See Shit” 😂 Man keep up the good work
What is the grease you use? I am currently in the process of making my own 3D printed gearbox and would love to know!
very nice video
can you give us the settings from your 3D Printer? because mine do not work well
I like the way you talk. ☺️
Excellent
awesome work sir!
Greetings from Turkey :)
That motor get hot quickly in high speed.
you've almost managed to make something we can already buy at the dollar store for $5 usd!!!!!!!!!
Looks good. I have enjoyed your videos, you have given me ideas for my designs.
nice burnout :D
6:25 You can put those inserts in the freezer and they will contract a little making inserting them a little easier, once inside, you can heat it with the soldering iron to make it fit snugly. BTW great video!.
That is very stupid
@@lolx400 ok
The double helical gears give space for grease or dirt on the gears a space to go.
This is going to need some sort of differential front to back or you'll get drive wind-up. Unless you can account for slipping somewhere else in the system
I have that qidi xplus printer. I love it and get excellent results though waiting on a new heat pipe.
You should use Lubrication Oil for cooling & lubrication of gears.
You're funny. Great video buddy! 😊
Waw, what an awesome project ! Very impressive !
Good print
What if you seal the gearbox and fill the inside with oil? 🤔 (some dumb idea for later projects I guess)
You should get into casting alluminum...it would make for better gears, straight from 3d print to full investment casting with prestigure optima
the middle gears produce so much drag without any bearings
Excellent work!
consider.
rotating the motor 90 degrees.
would backlasing be greatly reduced
Awesome videos man. I have an odd question. What kind of pants are you wearing.
Keren kak cara perakitan nya kak salam sukses selalu ya hadir menyimak bos ku semangat trus
Интересно наблюдать за работой. Отличный ролик, отличный мастер.
and next to do is differential, they not that hard ;) would love to see how you will approach it
Good job 👍😊🤗
Great video and a nice gearbox! Although the mistakes are not funny and generate a lot effort, I had to laugh about your comments. 😂
Oh, BTW... When you run out of iron rods, remember about threaded rods. 😉
weird question? what brand are your pants?
Amazing
Amazing dear ❤️
What’s the gear ratio ? The mod or pitch diameter etc....Good job but a bit of lack of technical information. Hard to know how well this will work without knowing how much torque speed is involved...
dont forget to grease the shafts on the center gears too
Don't forget differential gearing as well!
i love this guy haha
My toughts....
1- Why machine screws? Use wood screws...toys dont have machine screws.
2- Why Gears? Toothed pulley will wear less.
3- Why 8mm shafts? Way to oversized.
4- Make the hole on the gears (or pulley) slightly smaller than the diameter of the shaft you will use, then drill the hole with a drill bit, you will get better surface finish and less play.
5- No need for bearings on the middle bridge shafts, looks like they are very loose (shaft - gear hole)...they dont even turn on the video.
9:46 haha thats so me lol
have you thought about making any two motor designs?
how do you measure the shaft spacing for gear meshing?
I wonder how well this kind of thing would take to aluminium casting.
Cool vid, thanks
Question. Hi what is this called? 7:34
very cool, friend :)
Old trick from way back rc racing.. use a pice of paper to get your gear mesh right. That is if there’s any adjustments.
Let me know if you want a design for an electric snowblower. I have a corded version that I think would be great for me to 3d scan for you. also, my 3d scan will be pictures, but still.
It's angled higher than normal to keep everything electric safe, so if you're building triangle tracks, this could work.
What was the cost of the CNC part from PCBWay?
The double helical gears are self centering
'fuck this shit'. I love it. Your videos are great mate.
If you want a real nice grease for printed gears and parts grab some PTFE Magic lube by Aladdin. Real good goop and it holds nicely on just about any gear surface. I use this stuff on everything
Can you share the editable files for your pump? I really like the design but I need to modify it!
Don't use normal grease on plastic I heard it chemically reacts with it over time, Use silicone based grease or vaseline, Other than that love this gearbox.
Hola que material usaste para los engranajes
you should keep the gearing but instead on onedriveshaft all the way thrugh you should usea differential
Does any type of grease will do?
Great man 💖👌
Wonder if this can be used to winch a fish while fishing? Making an electric reel…
@07:55 _"And it was said at this moment in time everyone wearing headphones has left the channel..."_ 😖
I like how he says Build "booild"
Can the gears be lubricated with oil?
What module are your gears and what is helix angle?
Methinks your iron was waaaaaayyyy too hot for the inserts, it should be just below the melting point of the material they're going in.
An idea with the bearings too. They're probably fine, but there is a chance that they could work their way free being mounted on the outside. If they're mounted inside, there's no chance of them coming off to an extent that could be a problem.
I'd love to see the gears printed out of nylon. Regular plastic gears are either POM (Delrin) or Nylon, for the fact they're tough, and have a very low friction coefficient. You changed one of them to nylon, but not the others. Sure, PLA is nice and all, but it's really terrible for making anything useful.
Is it better to use the "though pla" for high torqe gearboxes or is there no difference really? (it will be used outside in snow)
tough pla is a polymer blend that increases impact resistance, so it would be good for a bashing vehicle that sees a lot of hard acceleration. Maker's Muse has a video where he tests different materials for gear strength: th-cam.com/video/UtRJ4lnNAXY/w-d-xo.html
sir .. how come only bearing on last gear?
Not necessary spin the middle shafts and the friction is low between gear and shaft. just enough the final stage shaft spins. so he just use bearings on the final stage
Try to check your printer settings, all the gear wheels looked very underextruded 😉
are those pants from the future
chamfer the holes of your threaded inserts. Did you run a 4 cell battery through that 3 cell ESC? Too high a voltage kills anything looks like user error to me.
Hello, ESC was for 4 cells but battery was 3 cells.
Why are you not using bearings? It should last longer
Your accent is awesome.
where are you from???
slowly to not make a mess..hahahahah boom!
This guy sounds like the guy on the phone trying to scam me.
Where can I get that speed controller?
Hi, can it be made with 4 wheels?