Man you saved me so much money. I followed your directions and fixed it and now it’s my claim to fame and my family thinks I’m a genius. This issue was so frustrating and I read all about all kinds of sensors and was sure I was in for thousands of dollars of diagnostics and troubleshooting. Thank you so much for posting this.
Thanks for posting. That was exactly what my 02 Escape was doing. Replace the part, and in less than an hour my car was running perfectly. Really, really appreciate you posting this!!
Same here, 02 Escape w same problem, question tho if u dont mind, did yours have a intermittent but consistent hissing that started and stopped seconds later coming from the "back" (Seemingly)? Idle REAL low then rev right back up to stay running(from IAC), seems a minor constant hiss is still there now, but the loud consistent/intermittent hiss is gone for me.. The hiss is **somewhere** but idk where, any of it was.. ive sealed EVERYTHING.. it is quite minor tho.-_- plastic intake maybe letting air out somewhere. -_- So far the dif IAC worked beautifully tho, I did an engine swap couple years ago bc the og blew up.. so I had a spare IAC off it, an old (less used) one that worked great.
THANK YOU !!!! Unconscious Mechanic , for a year and a half I've had this same problem , have tried everything under the sun and nothing worked , it's amazing that with so many experts on TH-cam NONE and I say none had this answer , I tried Google, Dog pile , and nothing with the answer !!! But your advice did the trick , Thanks alot.
Thank you for watching! Super happy I could help. Check out my other videos. Meanwhile listen to some Beatnik Termites "Sweatin to the Termites" my son's new album here on TH-cam.
I have a 2002 Ford Escape with 155 thousand miles on it. My car was performing the way that you described. So I went to Auto Zone and bought the part for 53 dollars. My install took about 15 to 20 minutes. The car now runs like its supposed to. Thanks for the information.
Well done.We have a Mazda Tribute ,which has the same motor as the escape.We have been having the same problems.We have spent a fortune at no avail.You have explained this in such a manner that is understandable and it is just common sense at the end of the day.The mechanics of today should be ashamed of there lack of skills set and reliance upon a diagnostic tool to tell them what is wrong.Well done again.Computers do not have the answer.
I sure hope it works out well for you, I also spent a fortune at a Buick dealer while on vacation 700 miles from home only to be told they could find nothing wrong with their "TECH 2000" computer after 2 hours. On a lark I pulled into a private repair shop and met a man with no voice box that motioned to me to start the car while he lifted the hood and pointed to the mass air sensor with his cane. 30 minutes later my vacation was saved.
Mine did the same thing now in the summer time, but in this winter under cold weather (northeastern mexico upper 30's lower 40's) would need to step a little bit on the pedal just to open the throttle plate. Removed the IAC valce cleaned it with some carb & choke cleaner and a small brush and lubricated with some WD-40, and have it running like nothing ever happend! This video was so helpful, thanks!
Thank you for posting! We had the exact same issue with our 2002 Escape and replacing the idle control valve has worked so far. Our mechanic replaced a hose and a sensor, but the problem came back. We had been dealing with this intermittently for 6 or 7 months. It always seemed to happen after it rained or when it was humid out...
Thanks so much for your video posting... You have a great style - You should have your own show! I'm going to do this repair in the morning... I have replaced so many things on the Escape (that there are no codes for, and no tech seems to know how to fix), and I really appreciate your share of the symptoms, the process and the cost, and the fix. Nice work, Sir...!
Thank you for posting this video! My 2003 V6 Mazda Tribute has been having the same intermittent problem with no codes, so my mechanic couldn't fix it. It always happened when I was away from the shop, and was working before I could get it there. This has been MOST frustrating, and has made me lose some confidence in the car that we have owned since new.I am pretty sure that this is the problem, so I bought the valve tonight to install tomorrow. Thanks again for posting!
Thanks Chris, this is the second time my 2000 Explorer has had this problem. First time was at about 70K and now today at 120K. Thanks for the video. Going to go buy one tomorrow.
thanks men my 1994 Ford E-250 Econoline Base 6 Cyl 4.9L was doing the same but my mechanic said that was the problem am happy to see these on youtube thanks again
WOW you really saved my ass with this one. I could NOT find the problem after all the gaskets, seals, hoses replaced new, and even adding Permatex in anything I thought COULD be a leak for good measure lol Though there weren't any as far as I can tell, bc the IAC Valve was the problem. Runs damn well now. I tell ya, I've torn in, out, up and down the whole upper half of the block so I could put it together as perfectly assembled and well sealed as I possibly could.. I cannot believe it was literally 2 bolts on top the intake, and a spritz of brake cleaner to clean it. BUT, it worked. Thank you good sir. I'm a beginning DIYer, with an obsessive mind for these things that detests unsolved challenges. lol ahh well, you live you learn. God Bless
thanks for the info I was able to clean mine it was stuck open sprayed with carb cleaner and used needle nose pliers to free up the shaft works great for now thanks again
My 02 Escape was idling all over the place. This is the 3rd IAC valve I've purchased from Advanced Auto. Some advise... get the Motorcraft part and NOT the whatever brand part. Once I went to Motorcraft, it's been running great (now at 238K miles!). I think the tolerances are different in the aftermarket ones or they just aren't made as well. This one has lasted over 50K now and still idling around 700-800.
Just got an estimate on my 2008 Escape limited from Mullinax Ford Lake Park. $275.00 plus tax. My car did exactly what you said and displayed yours doing. It happened about 6 months ago and went away the same day. Happened again this Saturday so I took it to Mullinax. They say they are "fixing a wire and reprogramming the computer". They did not mention this Idle control valve but I am guessing they unplugged it, sprayed some connection cleaner up in the socket and called it a day.
it helped that you mentioned that it wont throw a code was wondern why my 09 fusion check engine light wasnt on im a ford guy so subscribing to your channel
I have 2001 ford escape that was displaying similar problems, but finally threw code today.AUG 19/14 PCM code P1507, I didn't replace it. I just unbolted the unite like you did and flipped up side down. filled it up with Mineral Spirits and let it sit for 2-3 hours it seem to clean up fairly well. with a small brush i cleaned out residual carbon build up and sprayed WD40 let it sit for a few minuets. also checked see if the plunger moved freely it did. replaced IAC and reset Code. Car started up with AC on MAX with no issues, retested when the engine was Colder as it was removed while hot. Same result I use a USB OBD II link with my laptop to connect with Fordscan and the IAC showed normal operation...If it codes again I'll just replace the unit. I also posted this on another youtube Vid with similar issues.
Sticky air idle control valves are common all across the vehicle world. I pulled mine off my Taurus, cleaned it out, shot it full of WD-40, and it was like new again.
Hehe, we were down to one vehicle, unemployed, and pretty scared about our transportation options. I was so happy the repair worked I just had to cheer! I hope it helped you too!
I want to let everyone know about these common problems. I have a 2002 Mustang GT and it had the same problems. Mine was sputtering and idling rough when I came to a stop. Replaced the IAC with an aftermarket from your local Oreyllis.... It worked fine for about 2 months then it came back with idling problems. I did all kinds of diagnostics and nothing worked. No check engine light or anything else. I also removed positive and negative cables and touch them to reset PCM.. NOTHING... I went back to pats store and got another new one and same problem. I did more diagnostics and nothing. Went back and got another new one at parts store and nothing. I I went to a local wrecking yard and grabbed a USED one and installed it and BAM,,,, it's back to normal. DON'T BUY AFTERMARKET on these sensors.
When the GEM Module goes bad you'll basically have the same symptoms accept your radio will go on and off and the dash indicator lights will go crazy and your AC won't work properly. It's a white box about 6 in by 4 in underneath your dash right in the middle in front of the center console
Mine will run up to about 2000 and then stall out and die but if i hold my foot on the gas and hold it at 2k for about a minute itll drop down and idle below 1 thousand. Does that sound like it might be the same?
Sounds more like starving for fuel, change fuel filter and go from there. That is a cheap try. Yes it does sound like a similar problem, and it very well could be your IAC, also try unplugging it and see if it runs different. If after it warms up you can drive it at highway speeds it's not the filter.
I'm going through that now. Got one coming through Amazon. Just changed an O2 sensor. And vacuum hose . But still has slow reaction time when I attempted to accelerate
Did the OEM idle control part last, or have you replaced the part since this video was filmed? I was wondering if I should use a Ford Motorcraft valve instead of an OEM valve?
Doing this tomorrow morning with my '00 Mustang GT. I'm hoping cleaning it will solve it. My problem is really low idle especially when I come to a stop. With the AC running it will stall it sometimes. Also the car sat a long time, and since I started driving it again, it sounds like I have a turbocharger, from 1,500rpm to 2,000rpm it makes this loud sound, just like a big turbo, then sharply stops at around 2k. So strange, it has a hesitation to it also. WOT it runs perfect tho... I'm guessing I have a major vacuum leak, probably something dry rotted from sitting so much over the last few years. I haven't found it yet. I'm actually hoping what I'm hearing is just the IAC valve not working correctly, then correcting something at around 2k rpm, where it seems to run just fine.
Way back in the day mechanics would check for vacuum leaks with an unlit propane torch. When the fumes neared the problem the engine would run better because it was sucking the flammable gas instead of air. There are a few Ford vacuum leak videos on TH-cam also. Best of luck!
Wow, hard for me to remember but I Googled it! perfectamundo was from Fonzi on Happy Days. The phrase just popped out when the car worked, really don't use it that often..lol
big thanks. my 2001 Mazda tribute would not start. it would idle real low and then die. I removed the valve and sprayed some WD40 (all I had at the time) and the car started.
Mine revs low about 400to750 ish rpm and sometimes it cut out but there's a higher chance of it cutting out with ac on. Will try this and see. Ford Explorer 05
clean with carb cleaner or co contact cleaner? cause i did both , internally... like inside the tube and not the e connections outside but the ones sticking inside.
Thank you. Perfecto-munda! lol. Hoping this does it for me too. I have a Mazda Tribute and it's just starting to give me some idle issues when reaching normal operating temp.
Thanks, It turned out to be something else. Well, now it's my spring project and time to do a complete diagnostic. It was just too cold to be playing with it.
I've changed that part on my 2001 Escape, however the idle rate still drops off to almost stalling. Replaced all the spark plugs and coils, throttle body. Any ideas?
If it runs at 60MPH that eliminates a fuel issue, most likely you have another bad Idle air control valve. They sell a lot of crap Chinese ones. Or the electric connection is corroded and not getting signals to the valve. Other issues could be the mass air sensor or air filter. The sensor can be cleaned but ONLY.... ONLY with mass air sensor cleaner! Watch Scotty Kilmer mass air sensor video.
I had the same problem it was stuck at a high idle and if I put it in drive the escape would get too much fuel and speed up so fast which would almost cause me to wreck. Couldn't slow down unless I stomped the breaks. I replaced everything and cleaned everything that I could having to do with the throttle and throttle body. Ended up being something so dumb. The throttle cable was starting to splinter on the inside of the plastic sheathing. A small splinter of wire would catch and hang on this plastic sheathing from the inside and cause the throttle to stick open. After replacing the throttle cable everything was fine. Now I have a problem of the escape wanting to stall out when first started if I give it a bit of fuel (using the pedal) it runs fine but as soon as I release it then it started to stall a bit and wants to shut off. What is very odd is that it runs fine after it warms up and it does not stall at all. Never seen this problem before and not getting any codes. Seen people say it could be the EGR valve or the IAC valve but I am not sure myself. Anyone else have any ideas?????
Replaced the IAC on Mazda Tribute V6, same as Escape, started the engine and the RPM was about 4000 and it wasn't dropping down. Put back the old one and everything is alright. Is that normal?
Wow thats still low mileage my mom's escape is having trouble staying running came across your video it's got 93000 miles on it it will stay running if you press on the gas and it will die when you let off the gas so I figured the fuel pump is still good went to napa and got a new idle air control valve for it it will be installed probably tomorrow.
+Dominique Williams If it is shutting off because the idle speed is too low then it can be this problem. Test it by repeating the same test I show in the video in the safety of a parking spot or lot. Shutting off can be many things, but shutting off due to low idle speed ( RPM ) is usually this. Good luck!
Try disconnecting the wire while it is shut off, then start it and see if it stays high if it acts different then that would isolate it to the IAC, you might have a hung throttle pedal or cable also make sure it works freely and returns to idle position when you take your foot off.
Pittsburgh Pap started it up today same problem. took it on the highway about 5 miles got off and it stopped. maybe it was the throttle or peddle no idea? Thanks for your help sr.
Happens to my 2001 Ford Escape idles fast at times? Took it to the VoTech program at my local BOE, but they replaced something and it didn't work. $250 in parts later. Basically this is what I have to do is shut the motor down. Sometimes I can feel it idling fast as I am slowing down at stop lights. Not good when my kids are in the car with me. I believe the fast idle comes on whether or not the idiot light is on. Help!
+MarylandGOP This is the unit that controls the idle, hence the name. I would plunk down the $50 or try the carb cleaner sprays others have recommended below before returning to a repair facility.
You look like your left handed to me because you kept adjusting to your left hand to make it do things That's my favorite part because I'm a southpaw and it was like I was doing the work
So I have a 2001 ford escape and it pretty much starts everyday but some days it won't start at all but then u wait 30 mins and then it will start it sounds like sometimes it's not getting gas
Waiting 30 minutes will not help an electrical problem, or fuel starvation issue. I would suspect something that causes flooding when parked which likely would be dirty stuck open fuel injectors. Add a good fuel system cleaner in the tank (2 bottles at once) and fill tank. And change the fuel filter for kicks (easy & cheap)
In other comments below some have replaced these with aftermarket units that simply do not work. You might trying cleaning your original really well and trying it again.
You are describing signs of a restricted catalytic converter that is blocking the flow of exhaust once the load increases and the rpm increases. Remove both upstream O2 sensors and take it for a short road test to see if the power is back. If so install one and retest, then remove that one and install the other and retest. Doing this will tell you if its the rear converter or the converter on bank one or two that is restricted.
![เป็นไปได้ไหม - WanMai [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/_6lZ6b3_7Vo/mqdefault.jpg)
Man you saved me so much money. I followed your directions and fixed it and now it’s my claim to fame and my family thinks I’m a genius. This issue was so frustrating and I read all about all kinds of sensors and was sure I was in for thousands of dollars of diagnostics and troubleshooting. Thank you so much for posting this.
Thank you for watching! So glad I could help. Check out my other videos! Merry Christmas 🎄!
Thanks for watching! Good luck
instablaster.
EXCELLENT POST! 5 STARTS! 2001 Ford escape 246,000 miles and I'm just now having this problem. Part now costs $26.71 +tax. Going to do install today.
Just a foot note: Some aftermarket ones are bad right out of the box.
Thanks for posting. That was exactly what my 02 Escape was doing. Replace the part, and in less than an hour my car was running perfectly. Really, really appreciate you posting this!!
Thank you for watching! Come back when your weedwacker won't start
Same here, 02 Escape w same problem, question tho if u dont mind, did yours have a intermittent but consistent hissing that started and stopped seconds later coming from the "back" (Seemingly)? Idle REAL low then rev right back up to stay running(from IAC), seems a minor constant hiss is still there now, but the loud consistent/intermittent hiss is gone for me.. The hiss is **somewhere** but idk where, any of it was.. ive sealed EVERYTHING.. it is quite minor tho.-_- plastic intake maybe letting air out somewhere. -_-
So far the dif IAC worked beautifully tho, I did an engine swap couple years ago bc the og blew up.. so I had a spare IAC off it, an old (less used) one that worked great.
THANK YOU !!!! Unconscious Mechanic , for a year and a half I've had this same problem , have tried everything under the sun and nothing worked , it's amazing that with so many experts on TH-cam NONE and I say none had this answer , I tried Google, Dog pile , and nothing with the answer !!! But your advice did the trick , Thanks alot.
Thank you for watching! Super happy I could help. Check out my other videos. Meanwhile listen to some Beatnik Termites "Sweatin to the Termites" my son's new album here on TH-cam.
Thanks so much. Just did this simple repair and it fixed my problem on my 2004 V6 Escape with 220k miles. I went for the OEM part from Ford. $120.
Congrats! Thank you for watching. Check in out my other videos.
I have a 2002 Ford Escape with 155 thousand miles on it. My car was performing the way that you described. So I went to Auto Zone and bought the part for 53 dollars. My install took about 15 to 20 minutes. The car now runs like its supposed to. Thanks for the information.
Thanks for watching!
Very goods.
Well done.We have a Mazda Tribute ,which has the same motor as the escape.We have been having the same problems.We have spent a fortune at no avail.You have explained this in such a manner that is understandable and it is just common sense at the end of the day.The mechanics of today should be ashamed of there lack of skills set and reliance upon a diagnostic tool to tell them what is wrong.Well done again.Computers do not have the answer.
I sure hope it works out well for you, I also spent a fortune at a Buick dealer while on vacation 700 miles from home only to be told they could find nothing wrong with their "TECH 2000" computer after 2 hours. On a lark I pulled into a private repair shop and met a man with no voice box that motioned to me to start the car while he lifted the hood and pointed to the mass air sensor with his cane. 30 minutes later my vacation was saved.
Mine did the same thing now in the summer time, but in this winter under cold weather (northeastern mexico upper 30's lower 40's) would need to step a little bit on the pedal just to open the throttle plate. Removed the IAC valce cleaned it with some carb & choke cleaner and a small brush and lubricated with some WD-40, and have it running like nothing ever happend! This video was so helpful, thanks!
Thank you for posting! We had the exact same issue with our 2002 Escape and replacing the idle control valve has worked so far. Our mechanic replaced a hose and a sensor, but the problem came back. We had been dealing with this intermittently for 6 or 7 months. It always seemed to happen after it rained or when it was humid out...
+proletarianrev I hope this works out long term!
Thanks so much for your video posting... You have a great style - You should have your own show! I'm going to do this repair in the morning... I have replaced so many things on the Escape (that there are no codes for, and no tech seems to know how to fix), and I really appreciate your share of the symptoms, the process and the cost, and the fix. Nice work, Sir...!
Thank you! Check my other videos like th-cam.com/video/-La5rujFGKw/w-d-xo.html
Thanks so much for this video. In less than 5 minutes, I replaced my IAC valve and solved my problem.
Your welcome, thanks for watching! Check out my other videos!
Thank you for posting this video! My 2003 V6 Mazda Tribute has been having the same intermittent problem with no codes, so my mechanic couldn't fix it. It always happened when I was away from the shop, and was working before I could get it there. This has been MOST frustrating, and has made me lose some confidence in the car that we have owned since new.I am pretty sure that this is the problem, so I bought the valve tonight to install tomorrow. Thanks again for posting!
Good luck!
Did it fix your problem?
and 1 year from now, did it
Thanks for the video man! You saved me a trip to a mechanic to figure out the problem
Glad to help!
Thanks Chris, this is the second time my 2000 Explorer has had this problem. First time was at about 70K and now today at 120K. Thanks for the video. Going to go buy one tomorrow.
Good luck!
thanks men my 1994 Ford E-250 Econoline Base 6 Cyl 4.9L was doing the same but my mechanic said that was the problem am happy to see these on youtube thanks again
WOW you really saved my ass with this one. I could NOT find the problem after all the gaskets, seals, hoses replaced new, and even adding Permatex in anything I thought COULD be a leak for good measure lol Though there weren't any as far as I can tell, bc the IAC Valve was the problem. Runs damn well now. I tell ya, I've torn in, out, up and down the whole upper half of the block so I could put it together as perfectly assembled and well sealed as I possibly could.. I cannot believe it was literally 2 bolts on top the intake, and a spritz of brake cleaner to clean it. BUT, it worked. Thank you good sir. I'm a beginning DIYer, with an obsessive mind for these things that detests unsolved challenges. lol ahh well, you live you learn. God Bless
Great I could help! Thanks for watching and the props!
thanks for the info I was able to clean mine it was stuck open sprayed with carb cleaner and used needle nose pliers to free up the shaft works great for now thanks again
So glad it worked out for you!
Wife car literally started acting like this and this video was recommended to me by TH-cam 🙏🏻
Thank you for watching! Easy fix. Check out my other DIY videos!
My 02 Escape was idling all over the place. This is the 3rd IAC valve I've purchased from Advanced Auto. Some advise... get the Motorcraft part and NOT the whatever brand part. Once I went to Motorcraft, it's been running great (now at 238K miles!). I think the tolerances are different in the aftermarket ones or they just aren't made as well. This one has lasted over 50K now and still idling around 700-800.
Props to you for keeping her on the road!
Excellent. Now to check mine tomorrow! Thanks for the video!
Man thank you so much this helped resolve one of my issues with this lovely car..
great vid ! I'm fixing my escape tomorrow ! Thanks a bunch !!!
thanks you for your information and posting it. it saved my butt.
Thank you for watching! Check out my other DIY videos.
Working on my escape. Po136 code came up. Going to get this replaced as well. Think that’s a good idea. Car has 130 k miles
Thanks for the video, clear and educational... im working on mine...
thank you for the video. really good information and explanation
thanks for the video couldn't fix 03 mazda tribute without it
thanks for the video, Mother in law has same problem w/ Mazda Tribute, same beast, different face! Your right on the no code!
Thank you very much/Fc.From Thailand.
Thank you for watching from Thailand!
Just got an estimate on my 2008 Escape limited from Mullinax Ford Lake Park. $275.00 plus tax. My car did exactly what you said and displayed yours doing. It happened about 6 months ago and went away the same day. Happened again this Saturday so I took it to Mullinax. They say they are "fixing a wire and reprogramming the computer". They did not mention this Idle control valve but I am guessing they unplugged it, sprayed some connection cleaner up in the socket and called it a day.
+Robert Johnson Somebody has to put their kids through college. Hopefully your problem is resolved.
it helped that you mentioned that it wont throw a code was wondern why my 09 fusion check engine light wasnt on im a ford guy so subscribing to your channel
Sadly, no more Ford videos. It left us as a rusted project car for my neighbor. But I have lots of other videos!
Thanks! I believe we have exactly the same issue with 2004 Ford Escape, 66K miles.
Thank you VERY much for this video. I was able to repair my car myself:)
Well done! Thank you for the feedback.
I have 2001 ford escape that was displaying similar problems, but finally threw code today.AUG 19/14 PCM code P1507, I didn't replace it. I just unbolted the unite like you did and flipped up side down. filled it up with Mineral Spirits and let it sit for 2-3 hours it seem to clean up fairly well. with a small brush i cleaned out residual carbon build up and sprayed WD40 let it sit for a few minuets. also checked see if the plunger moved freely it did. replaced IAC and reset Code. Car started up with AC on MAX with no issues, retested when the engine was Colder as it was removed while hot. Same result I use a USB OBD II link with my laptop to connect with Fordscan and the IAC showed normal operation...If it codes again I'll just replace the unit. I also posted this on another youtube Vid with similar issues.
Good job! Certainly worth a try before paying for a new part.
My Mom has this problem on her escape so I will give a try and let you know how it turns out. Thank you in advance just incase it works!
did it?
Sticky air idle control valves are common all across the vehicle world. I pulled mine off my Taurus, cleaned it out, shot it full of WD-40, and it was like new again.
You are so honest, thank you
Thanks!
Nice job...well done..thanks for posting!!
+Scott Draper Thank you for the compliment. Check out my other DIY videos.
Nice. Well explained and logical.
Thanks for your video. Very helpful.
PERFECTAMUNDO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The climax of the video!
Hehe, we were down to one vehicle, unemployed, and pretty scared about our transportation options. I was so happy the repair worked I just had to cheer! I hope it helped you too!
Awesome Pittsburgh 👏👏👏good Job🙂thank you
Thank you Sergio for watching, check out my other videos!
2009 Ford Escape V6 - Check the passenger side motor mount. It will cause the entire vehicle to run rough and vibrate when stopped.
exact same symptoms.... no code on the GF's 2002 mustang... with only 57k. Awesome help thank you
+Zach Geiser So glad it worked!
I want to let everyone know about these common problems. I have a 2002 Mustang GT and it had the same problems. Mine was sputtering and idling rough when I came to a stop. Replaced the IAC with an aftermarket from your local Oreyllis.... It worked fine for about 2 months then it came back with idling problems. I did all kinds of diagnostics and nothing worked. No check engine light or anything else. I also removed positive and negative cables and touch them to reset PCM.. NOTHING... I went back to pats store and got another new one and same problem. I did more diagnostics and nothing. Went back and got another new one at parts store and nothing. I I went to a local wrecking yard and grabbed a USED one and installed it and BAM,,,, it's back to normal. DON'T BUY AFTERMARKET on these sensors.
+Ramiro Govea I had a feeling that's where you were going with it...
When the GEM Module goes bad you'll basically have the same symptoms accept your radio will go on and off and the dash indicator lights will go crazy and your AC won't work properly. It's a white box about 6 in by 4 in underneath your dash right in the middle in front of the center console
Mine will run up to about 2000 and then stall out and die but if i hold my foot on the gas and hold it at 2k for about a minute itll drop down and idle below 1 thousand. Does that sound like it might be the same?
Sounds more like starving for fuel, change fuel filter and go from there. That is a cheap try. Yes it does sound like a similar problem, and it very well could be your IAC, also try unplugging it and see if it runs different. If after it warms up you can drive it at highway speeds it's not the filter.
Did this issue happen over night or did if happen over time.
I'm going through that now.
Got one coming through Amazon.
Just changed an O2 sensor.
And vacuum hose .
But still has slow reaction time when I attempted to accelerate
good presentation. thanks
Did the OEM idle control part last, or have you replaced the part since this video was filmed? I was wondering if I should use a Ford Motorcraft valve instead of an OEM valve?
My valve lasted until I sold the vehicle, I could not replace RUST.
Lol, good answer! Thanks for your reply!
Awesome info! Thanks!
Doing this tomorrow morning with my '00 Mustang GT. I'm hoping cleaning it will solve it. My problem is really low idle especially when I come to a stop. With the AC running it will stall it sometimes. Also the car sat a long time, and since I started driving it again, it sounds like I have a turbocharger, from 1,500rpm to 2,000rpm it makes this loud sound, just like a big turbo, then sharply stops at around 2k. So strange, it has a hesitation to it also. WOT it runs perfect tho... I'm guessing I have a major vacuum leak, probably something dry rotted from sitting so much over the last few years. I haven't found it yet. I'm actually hoping what I'm hearing is just the IAC valve not working correctly, then correcting something at around 2k rpm, where it seems to run just fine.
Way back in the day mechanics would check for vacuum leaks with an unlit propane torch. When the fumes neared the problem the engine would run better because it was sucking the flammable gas instead of air. There are a few Ford vacuum leak videos on TH-cam also. Best of luck!
Worked for me, thank you!
Many thanks for that video. I try it.
perfecto mundo haha mine was the same thing thanks i am glad i didnt take my escape to ford as well.
perfecto mundo!!!! haha where did you get that from? my Dad use to say it
Wow, hard for me to remember but I Googled it! perfectamundo was from Fonzi on Happy Days. The phrase just popped out when the car worked, really don't use it that often..lol
Pittsburgh Pap crazy haha
big thanks. my 2001 Mazda tribute would not start. it would idle real low and then die. I removed the valve and sprayed some WD40 (all I had at the time) and the car started.
+aahnn Great !!
Mine revs low about 400to750 ish rpm and sometimes it cut out but there's a higher chance of it cutting out with ac on. Will try this and see. Ford Explorer 05
any update?
I did this on my 2003 Tribute it worked, also clean your MAF sensor.
what's the problem in your mazda sir.?
clean with carb cleaner or co contact cleaner? cause i did both , internally... like inside the tube and not the e connections outside but the ones sticking inside.
Thank you. Perfecto-munda! lol. Hoping this does it for me too. I have a Mazda Tribute and it's just starting to give me some idle issues when reaching normal operating temp.
Good luck!
Thanks, It turned out to be something else. Well, now it's my spring project and time to do a complete diagnostic. It was just too cold to be playing with it.
Thank you very much
Your welcome!
Thanks for sharing.. I’m having the same issue. But what I don’t understand is why I’m in the mood for some fried chicken right now?
I took the ham!
I am wondering if you have to remove the housing to clean it out.?
Yes, running fuel system cleaner thru the tank would not be very effective in correcting this issue.
I've changed that part on my 2001 Escape, however the idle rate still drops off to almost stalling. Replaced all the spark plugs and coils, throttle body. Any ideas?
If it runs at 60MPH that eliminates a fuel issue, most likely you have another bad Idle air control valve. They sell a lot of crap Chinese ones. Or the electric connection is corroded and not getting signals to the valve. Other issues could be the mass air sensor or air filter. The sensor can be cleaned but ONLY.... ONLY with mass air sensor cleaner! Watch Scotty Kilmer mass air sensor video.
@@sixty9harleyPittsburghPAP I’ll try the mass airflow sensor. Thanks. Air filter is brand new.
felicidades buen video y pon mas videos de ford escape gracias
De Nada !!
I had the same problem it was stuck at a high idle and if I put it in drive the escape would get too much fuel and speed up so fast which would almost cause me to wreck. Couldn't slow down unless I stomped the breaks. I replaced everything and cleaned everything that I could having to do with the throttle and throttle body. Ended up being something so dumb. The throttle cable was starting to splinter on the inside of the plastic sheathing. A small splinter of wire would catch and hang on this plastic sheathing from the inside and cause the throttle to stick open. After replacing the throttle cable everything was fine.
Now I have a problem of the escape wanting to stall out when first started if I give it a bit of fuel (using the pedal) it runs fine but as soon as I release it then it started to stall a bit and wants to shut off. What is very odd is that it runs fine after it warms up and it does not stall at all. Never seen this problem before and not getting any codes. Seen people say it could be the EGR valve or the IAC valve but I am not sure myself. Anyone else have any ideas?????
My goodness, I am glad you were not killed by that throttle cable!! If you watch my video I think my IAC symptoms were the same as yours above.
Replaced the IAC on Mazda Tribute V6, same as Escape, started the engine and the RPM was about 4000 and it wasn't dropping down. Put back the old one and everything is alright. Is that normal?
Absolutely NOT, you have a defective part. Return it for another!!
Thanks needed that.
So happy to help!
How many mIles did you get on the escape.
80,000, but it still ran great. I sold it to a disabled guy that could do the body work it needed. He still toots when he drives past the house.
Wow thats still low mileage my mom's escape is having trouble staying running came across your video it's got 93000 miles on it it will stay running if you press on the gas and it will die when you let off the gas so I figured the fuel pump is still good went to napa and got a new idle air control valve for it it will be installed probably tomorrow.
@@coolastro Let me know how it works out!
coolastro I just hit 200,000 on mine and it’s just now doing it the v6 escapes are pretty dependable
@@Rekrap42 Just replaced the iac now running great Thank You
Thanks for that I hope that’s the problem with mine.
Good luck! Thanks for watching! Check out my other videos.
Chris, it happened over time, as the video states.
I have a 2001 Explorer. everytime I come to a stop it shuts off I keep hearing this is,the problem. what do u think
+Dominique Williams If it is shutting off because the idle speed is too low then it can be this problem. Test it by repeating the same test I show in the video in the safety of a parking spot or lot. Shutting off can be many things, but shutting off due to low idle speed ( RPM ) is usually this. Good luck!
mine idles real high when starting . I say bout 2500rpm to 3000rpm. not shooting a code . do you think cleaning it will help? Just started today
It's so easy to take off and clean you might as well try that.
Pittsburgh Pap it just started tonight it fires up but ilding super high. I couldnt believe it. it stays running just high.
Try disconnecting the wire while it is shut off, then start it and see if it stays high if it acts different then that would isolate it to the IAC, you might have a hung throttle pedal or cable also make sure it works freely and returns to idle position when you take your foot off.
Ok sounds great thanks for the heads up
Pittsburgh Pap started it up today same problem. took it on the highway about 5 miles got off and it stopped. maybe it was the throttle or peddle no idea? Thanks for your help sr.
i have a different problem, mine idles ok, just starts to idle faster the longer you sit. any ideas....
Try cleaning the IAC with mineral spirits or a Gumout type product. keep the electrical end dry.
Happens to my 2001 Ford Escape idles fast at times? Took it to the VoTech program at my local BOE, but they replaced something and it didn't work. $250 in parts later. Basically this is what I have to do is shut the motor down. Sometimes I can feel it idling fast as I am slowing down at stop lights. Not good when my kids are in the car with me. I believe the fast idle comes on whether or not the idiot light is on. Help!
+MarylandGOP This is the unit that controls the idle, hence the name. I would plunk down the $50 or try the carb cleaner sprays others have recommended below before returning to a repair facility.
you need to clean it with STP Throttle Body cleaner. Works great
how do i locate the thermostat in my 2004 V6 Ford Escape?
Thanks in advance.
iv'e been looking on here for a few days with no luck.
Found this, it should work! th-cam.com/video/c61S62Q0zTo/w-d-xo.html
My 2003 Ford Escape turns off quickly after I start it, probably about a second or 2 but sometimes it’ll keep running after a few fails
Bingo! Won't idle... so I would follow my video. You can try cleaning or replacing the IAC.
Pittsburgh Pap I’m getting it replaced today, I hope that’s all that it need
@@officiallyisaiah6408 Do it yourself, could not be easier!
You look like your left handed to me because you kept adjusting to your left hand to make it do things That's my favorite part because I'm a southpaw and it was like I was doing the work
I am very right handed. But I lost strength in mine after a motorcycle accident I have to switch often.
What is the red idiot light on?
BTW Autozone and others will do the code thing and print it out for free.
Hey thank you
Thank you for watching! Check out my other videos.
So I have a 2001 ford escape and it pretty much starts everyday but some days it won't start at all but then u wait 30 mins and then it will start it sounds like sometimes it's not getting gas
So if anyone has any Ideas of what this might be that would be greatly appreciated.
Waiting 30 minutes will not help an electrical problem, or fuel starvation issue. I would suspect something that causes flooding when parked which likely would be dirty stuck open fuel injectors. Add a good fuel system cleaner in the tank (2 bottles at once) and fill tank. And change the fuel filter for kicks (easy & cheap)
Dr. Sigmund Floyd Mental health SPOOF
CTM automotive in Plum I am the Lead tec and I have Had 3 escapes and know them pretty well
That is "Plum" exciting! Merry Christmas Brian and thanks for watching!
Mine does it as well.Does it have anything to do with bank 2 rich trouble code?
thank you sir
I entered the below question before I heard you say you didn't get a code.
I changed the IAC but it slowly and steadily it drops and idles rough again
In other comments below some have replaced these with aftermarket units that simply do not work. You might trying cleaning your original really well and trying it again.
Or seeing if you can get a free replacement from your auto supplier.
See my issue is I'm getting to much idle it revs up when I put the car on park😩🤦🏾♂️
The key is "idle control" Remove, unplug, clean, or replace the unit and see what happens?
I have that cut off problem on my 1998 zx2 only when the AC is on at idle.
If the IAC looks like this one, remove and spray the crap out of it with carb cleaner and see if that corrects your problem.
Thanks, I will try it. Was thinking of taking it to the dealer getting ready for summer.
Where is it 2009 Ford escape 3.0l?
Pretty much the same spot, it will look similar also with the same type wire connection.
Good job. I'm about to trouble shoot my 92' v6 explorer...air filter to throttle body. Censors too
They sell a mass air flow sensor spray cleaner, you MUST use that not any other!
@@sixty9harleyPittsburghPAP yes , thank you
MAZDA TRIBUTE as well
como puedo quitar la senal del break a mi ord escape
I have a ford escape xlt 02 3.0 I have in parkin it accelerated it only reaches 4000 rpm the engine sounds strange
You are describing signs of a restricted catalytic converter that is blocking the flow of exhaust once the load increases and the rpm increases. Remove both upstream O2 sensors and take it for a short road test to see if the power is back. If so install one and retest, then remove that one and install the other and retest. Doing this will tell you if its the rear converter or the converter on bank one or two that is restricted.
There were more than one problem. My Escape never reach 2000 rpm at cold start.
Buenas noches alguien me puede decir en donde puedo encontrar un sensor Iac para mi Ford Escape Limited 2006. Soy de Perú muchas gracias!!
tente limpiar su IAC si no puede encontrar un reemplazo th-cam.com/video/vFhoNykgQtc/w-d-xo.html
لديه فوردتورس 2007عندسيربمسافه100كيلو متروعنددعس على الفرامل لمدة30ثانيه تحصل عندي نعته ماسباب العطل
And no code comes up with the code reader
I think the o2 sensor would have thrown a code?
at 1.5x speed this will sound normal
Noo I'm late To my Thanksgiving dinner