Mads, I commented on this several years ago but wanted to call out - once again - that your viewership engagement here on TH-cam is abnormally high and you should be proud of that. It is exceedingly rare for me to see videos with more than about 10% upvote ratios - most seem to be between 5% and 10%. You still consistently get around 20%. As of the time of writing this you have 5400 views and just a touch over 1k upvotes.
The 3YM30AE is the latest version of the 3YM. The cylinder diameter is bigger, stroke changed, some head intake changes and most noticeable is the serpentine belt resulting in a couple of more HP and better fuel economy. I wouldn’t be concerned even slightly about the submerged engine. The new harness and air cleaner will resolve that of the internals have been sorted. (Do check the emissions spring and diaphragm) as they don’t like salt water. A friend motored his cat with submerged engines (only flushed) from Antigua to Norway with no problems!
Air Compressor(s) - if it's not too late, you could utilize the "dead" Compressor's Tank to increase the volume of compressed air and thus reduce the number of "duty cycles" on the motor. Also in humid Florida, consider a cooler just after the compressor in order to reduce or eliminate moisture into the tanks, which condenses and unless drained daily or more frequently, will rust out the bottom(s). Hope that helps.
Save the old compressor’s tank and add that tank volume to your new compressor. Use beeswax to loosen the bolts. Heat up the part with the stuck or broken bolt and feed the beeswax into the part.
You are one of the few channels that I have faith in that all repairs will be done in a timely and professional manner. So many channels make little or no real progress from week to week, and it seems like a waste of time watching them. With you, I always come way educated, entertained, and satisfied. I feel like I need to have a cigarette when I it is all said and done.
Something for future work, you can often borrow specialized tools like bering pullers from auto parts stores. If you only need it once, it's a great way to save some money.
Load the MaxProps up with grease and that will remove most of the play. The grease should then be checked every few months and more can be easily added while the boat is in the water. Good luck.
Florida Marine Diesel in Ft Pierce. He may be a bit curmudgeonly, but he is a Yanmar whisperer and machinist. His shop may be a bit disorganized but he is a perfectionist with his engines and is the first person who comes to mind when trouble shooting Yanmar. He's an old Veteran who likes Ginger beer if you're going to pay a visit. Good luck!
It's great to see you have found McMaster Carr, great place to find almost everything for hardware and fittings, shipping is reasobale and very fast. I was going to suggest you look them up and then I see you opening the tank fittings and I recognized those McMaster Carr bags. Great job on the weekly vidoes, I always look forward to your updates.
Mads, you may need to get a heavier extension cord. I don’t know how long of a run/ extension cord you are using now but most motors on electric compressors and larger tools such as table saws don’t work well with long extension cords. If you can shorten the cord or go to a heavier cord your power tools will last longer and work much better.
Even though I have a mono hull I really enjoy the process involved in your restoration project. Great project matched by your videos just an informative pleasure to watch.
had the same issue ordering parts for a SD60 transmission, no good websites in North America, Mack boring is the Yanmar distributor in NA but I had to go though a Canadian Dealer because I live in Canada so simple and quick solution was Dam Marine in France. North America had no clutch plates for a SD 60 in stock but Dam had them and delivered to my door in less than a week. Rant here, how many boats have a SD60 Transmission in the US and Canada and the Caribbean but you have to buy parts from Europe unbelievable , but love Yanmar products, very well engineered. now spending the winter in the BVI on our boat and truly enjoy your vids have watched from day 1. keep up the "Glorious Work"
I have the same compressor that you thought bad. It is a common issue. The compositor and on/off switch is toast. I called kobalt to keep from buying a new compressor. Kobalt sent me the parts. If you still have the compressor call kobalt up.
Mystery adjuster: possibly an alternator tensioning bracket. Makes it easy to dial in the last bit of tension, rather than relying on a stick and fast hands on a ratchet.
Hi Mads running an air compressor using a long extension cord could have burned up your old compressor. They are very sensitive to voltage drop. Make sure to vastly oversized the extension cord especially for long runs.
Mads, I do not envy you with this major 5S task you have on hand. God bless you for that. I know the feels. Check Lowes to see if that Kolbalt compressor has a warranty. I think it may. Ace and Menards has a great selection of hardware. Check there to see if they may have replacement or equivalent bolts, nuts, and washers you may need. The amount of four letter words emitted due to failed tools…. Have a great day sir!
One suggestion to get the most life out of your compressor: Get a 10 or at least 12 gauge extension cord. In Denmark with handy 220v, you don't max out motor brushes like we do here in 110v-land. Using a wimpy extension cord really risks eating the motor brushes. A heavy gauge cord will save all your tools. Sounds like your old compressor ate one of its brushes. You can still use the old tank for additional air storage, filling with the new compressor.
Stainless steel wool is great for cleaning bronze propellers. One would think it'd scratch the surface, but no! It's polishing and course cleaning at the same time!
Download the exploded parts diagram for your engines from Yanmar (check detailed model numbers) then find a site which you can order by number. Remember that many parts on the engine can be custom orders by the OEM boat builder. Things like alternators, alternator brackets, water pumps, pulleys/sheaves, etc. may have been spec’s and supplied by Yanmar or the others. Yanmar doesn’t make alternators or water pumps, so there are usually multiple options depending on the setup and price point the boat OEM is trying to achieve. You’ll have to check those parts or their manufacturer and model and order separately. I’m sure you know this all already, but thought I’d mention it here for others.
@@SailLife I started watching your Athena refit a few weeks ago, seeing your progress was amazing, you're like a machine, I don't know how you do so much. I'm up to your Trinidad stay so far, I'll be sad when the series is over but so happy it's starting again with your new cat 😊 Thank you for the countless hours of fantastic entertainment.
I'm not sure where in Florida Abom 79 is at but he's a machinist you tuber. He often does repairs on stuff including fixing bolt holes that get mangled removing bolts. If things go poorly he may be cheaper than a new part. He simply fills the holes and re bores and taps them to spec.
When you go to put on new belts on the engines. Go buy Aerospace protectant and soak the belts in it for a half hour then let them dry for half hour and they will last twice as long and not crack. Try it out!!
Download the Yanmar 3Ym30 parts manual. There has to be some boating group or owners forum that has a link. I was able to download the entire digital parts manual for the Yanmar 3GM30f, and is that ever handy to have on my phone and ipad. Be sure to determine which engine veryou actually have. Yamar did different engines for different markets, based on the same model, which involved minor but numerous modifications.
I wish I had seen your video 15 years ago when I had my aluminum diesel tanks built. Yep I'm going to get some "threaded weld-in doo-dads" and hopefully say Aloha to my uninvited diesel rust preventer film in the bilge. Or plan 2 I'll have a good reason for Rick at the shop to finally teach me how to program the lathe. More will be revealed. All the best.
“ engine mount” Very good. One of my silly pet peeves… People calling them “motor mounts” 😂 Enjoying your content! Keep up the good work! Thanks 👍🏼😎🙏🏼 John
you need a much larger gauge extension cord. I used to see this a TON with electric leaf blowers. The voltage drop is most likely what killed your compressor. Southwire has an easy app to check out your voltage drop and what you'd need to upsize to. I know electric leaf blowers for the most part were rated for 50ft at 12awg, if I remember correctly. Everyone would use the cheap orange 16awg 200ft cords and they'd go toast in no time. Don't know how far you are from the receptacle but for example if you want 15a at 100ft you need 10awg cord.
Thank You for a Fun and Great video this week. And I would like to wish ya'll a Very Merry 🎄 and Happy New Year 🎉. Until next week, Aloha from the Big Island of Hawaii! Aloha and cheers 🍻
Free to choose the most stupid system possible, you mean? Free to align yourself with 2 global superpowers (Myanmar and Liberia) as the only countries on the planet using such a stupid system? Free to be jingoistic about making poor choices? Free to indoctrinate you populace into thinking that their "choices" are somehow superior? That sort of freedom seems well worthwhile, doesn't it.......
I have a 3YM30 circa 2014. I believe the AE is a newer version. The 2 pumps you showed earlier look like mine. Also, check the numbers on the engine mounts. I believe one side of the engine is slightly stiffer than the other.
Has anyone mentioned that the safety yellow on the stairs is wearing down. They are getting less safe by the day. A fresh application of yellow paint is required!
Madds - With all the work your doing -I would pull the shafts - take them in to assure they are true and streight.....and replace the cutless bearings - The cost is minimal - The possible headach avoided is migraine sized
Always took our boat props to a place in Olathe Kansas called Midwest propeller service they do excellent work. They do props from all over the USA and probably other countries. Don't know about feathering props but I'd call them.
There is a Yanmar distributor out of Baton Rouge, Louisiana that is quick and helpful. Not cheap. They take returns on stuff they send out that does not work. Most of the people are very helpful.
You can wrap a bike chain, once, around your drive shaft. Then using a sawing motion it will clean the shaft without causing the shaft to go out of round.
Mads - I am sure that you already know about sourcing fasteners from another lower cost source than the engine manufacturer. I have a specialty fastener shop that I frequent and it saves me a ton of money. I don't use lowes or home depot as they too are very expensive. Good news on the max prop - I have one on my latest refit and was not aware that they were that expensive. I did however get a chance to look at lasdrop dripless units while at workboat this year - I think they may be a more robust design than PYI units. I think its worth checking out. I just ordered one for my Sabre.
I suspect you can download parts diagrams from the manufacturer. Its a bit old fashioned but I find a printed document much faster to peruse. Keep up the great work, you’re living my fantasy life … if only I were 60 years younger. 👍🏻
3YM30 is 29hp engine. I’ll also recommend to install aftermarket panels for the Yanmars, way better and cheaper.. the electronic ones fail a lot.. talk to Fred at PYI…. He’s the MaxProp Guru…. BTW, that are made in Italy..
Oh yeah, I realized it’s flexofold that’s the Danish prop - not max prop - I wanted to add a little text thing in the video but forgot. I wonder how many people will spot that mistake 😉🙂
At least on the older line (3GM), the raw water pump is actually not made by Yanmar (Johnson?), and can be found for cheaper if not painted grey. I'll also note that yours looks like the design that can fail along the shaft between impeller and pulley, and start leaking raw water out of the middle. Mine did that, replaced it and will some day recondition the failed one.
Hey Mads. Do Not Throw the Old Air Compressor because You Can Double your Air pressure so you Don’t work the New Air Compressors to Death. Just trying to help you out
Toad marine is where I get my 2GM parts and great service. Finding the exploded diagram is a bit of pain but once you find them you can order off each list and add parts to cart then return to diagram list
I had to go back and look as I have not ordered parts in a year and my link was broken that had diagrams and parts - now they just show the list that is hyperlinked and you add part to cart then use the browser back function to get to list - ughhh
Those props have less play by far than mine. No vibration under power. I use a different grease than PYI recommends. I find Lubriplate AA to be too runny, so I use another waterproof grease in NLGI grade #1, Chevron Black Pearl, which has the same calcium sulphonate chemistry but in a synthetic base.
Check Ace Hardware for all your nuts and bolts needs. My local ones have the best selection of metric, stainless, and specialty fasteners. More expensive than big box stores but less than marine stores. Also, better selection than big box.
Buying a new compressor is maybe a good thing. Not sure if an el motor was cheaper then a compleet new compressor with tank. Can you not use parts from the old compressor, means the tank you could connect to the new compressor with a T connection so you will then have a double capacity. Also don't forget for the props to have some grease on the moving parts inside. Bols in there should be secured with lock-tide too. Good luck.
One thing you can do to save some money if your sure your only gonna use a tool once or twice is to rent one either from home depot or an auto parts store
Those engines will be fine. I wouldn't have even rebuilt them. Been working on old diesel since I was 6 yo running a tractor in ffarmland, Indiana. I bet my reputation they would have been better in factory condition. Since you don't know who or how they were rebuilding them.
I highly recommend the Ingersoll Rand 20 gallon compressor. The Harbor Freight stuff is trash. I guarantee it will keep failing. It is not suitably for continuius use. The IR 20 gallon is the last compressor you'll ever buy.
Check out a machine / fabrication shop with a computer cutting table for your brackets it would be wat cheeper. And as your working with alum on your engine parts i think about some anti size compound for all thoese alum bolts .
Try tractor supply for bolts, they sell them by the pound, cheaper, also yanmar engines are used in a lot of tractors and some of the tractor engine parts will cross over.
EDIT.... Just unpaused the video to hear you say that you already know about PYI. And then watched the video to the end to hear that PYI has answered all your questions giving the props a clean bill of health. Ooops!! Note to self... watch the whole video first, before commenting ;-) There is a shop near me in the PNW called PYI, inc., that does a full recondition service on Max Props. They have all the tooling to re-machine the parts to take out blade slop and other tollerance issues. You should be able to get those two props back in working order for significantly less than a new set.
I would love to have a site with the exploded diagram, but I use yanmar shop like you said then I take the part number to toadmarine which I've found to be the cheapest supplier for yanmar OEM parts.
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Your posts are one of the highlights of my week… Thank you so very much for making my life better…
Mads, I commented on this several years ago but wanted to call out - once again - that your viewership engagement here on TH-cam is abnormally high and you should be proud of that. It is exceedingly rare for me to see videos with more than about 10% upvote ratios - most seem to be between 5% and 10%. You still consistently get around 20%. As of the time of writing this you have 5400 views and just a touch over 1k upvotes.
The 3YM30AE is the latest version of the 3YM. The cylinder diameter is bigger, stroke changed, some head intake changes and most noticeable is the serpentine belt resulting in a couple of more HP and better fuel economy. I wouldn’t be concerned even slightly about the submerged engine. The new harness and air cleaner will resolve that of the internals have been sorted. (Do check the emissions spring and diaphragm) as they don’t like salt water. A friend motored his cat with submerged engines (only flushed) from Antigua to Norway with no problems!
Air Compressor(s) - if it's not too late, you could utilize the "dead" Compressor's Tank to increase the volume of compressed air and thus reduce the number of "duty cycles" on the motor. Also in humid Florida, consider a cooler just after the compressor in order to reduce or eliminate moisture into the tanks, which condenses and unless drained daily or more frequently, will rust out the bottom(s). Hope that helps.
This will be an amazing transformation , fortunately we get to watch and you do all the heavy lifting . You are an Zen master at solving puzzles .
The best weekly show I’m already following for 2 years. I have Dehler 37 and I got a lot of useful info from you, thanks!
Save the old compressor’s tank and add that tank volume to your new compressor.
Use beeswax to loosen the bolts. Heat up the part with the stuck or broken bolt and feed the beeswax into the part.
You are one of the few channels that I have faith in that all repairs will be done in a timely and professional manner. So many channels make little or no real progress from week to week, and it seems like a waste of time watching them. With you, I always come way educated, entertained, and satisfied. I feel like I need to have a cigarette when I it is all said and done.
Something for future work, you can often borrow specialized tools like bering pullers from auto parts stores. If you only need it once, it's a great way to save some money.
Load the MaxProps up with grease and that will remove most of the play. The grease should then be checked every few months and more can be easily added while the boat is in the water. Good luck.
Great Video! Love the way you diagnose each problem clearly and don’t take short cuts
Thanks Madds fun sunday times always enjoyable for all these years 😊
Florida Marine Diesel in Ft Pierce. He may be a bit curmudgeonly, but he is a Yanmar whisperer and machinist. His shop may be a bit disorganized but he is a perfectionist with his engines and is the first person who comes to mind when trouble shooting Yanmar. He's an old Veteran who likes Ginger beer if you're going to pay a visit. Good luck!
Thanks for the recommendation 🙂
That sounds like a proper sponsoring opportunity!
It's great to see you have found McMaster Carr, great place to find almost everything for hardware and fittings, shipping is reasobale and very fast.
I was going to suggest you look them up and then I see you opening the tank fittings and I recognized those McMaster Carr bags.
Great job on the weekly vidoes, I always look forward to your updates.
Very impressed with McMaster so far! 🙂
Great Progress!
Always a pleasure to follow along!
Mads, you may need to get a heavier extension cord. I don’t know how long of a run/ extension cord you are using now but most motors on electric compressors and larger tools such as table saws don’t work well with long extension cords. If you can shorten the cord or go to a heavier cord your power tools will last longer and work much better.
Yes, and don't use it coiled up.
Even though I have a mono hull I really enjoy the process involved in your restoration project. Great project matched by your videos just an informative pleasure to watch.
had the same issue ordering parts for a SD60 transmission, no good websites in North America, Mack boring is the Yanmar distributor in NA but I had to go though a Canadian Dealer because I live in Canada so simple and quick solution was Dam Marine in France. North America had no clutch plates for a SD 60 in stock but Dam had them and delivered to my door in less than a week. Rant here, how many boats have a SD60 Transmission in the US and Canada and the Caribbean but you have to buy parts from Europe unbelievable , but love Yanmar products, very well engineered. now spending the winter in the BVI on our boat and truly enjoy your vids have watched from day 1. keep up the "Glorious Work"
I have the same compressor that you thought bad. It is a common issue. The compositor and on/off switch is toast. I called kobalt to keep from buying a new compressor. Kobalt sent me the parts. If you still have the compressor call kobalt up.
Mystery adjuster: possibly an alternator tensioning bracket. Makes it easy to dial in the last bit of tension, rather than relying on a stick and fast hands on a ratchet.
watched on Patreon, all hail the algorithm , godt arbejde !
Great video again, good work.
Hi Mads running an air compressor using a long extension cord could have burned up your old compressor. They are very sensitive to voltage drop. Make sure to vastly oversized the extension cord especially for long runs.
Love your videos
You are getting there slowly but surely well done 😊😊
Clean the battery terminals on the dork helmet
It's always something to deal with on rebuilding. Thanks for the update, and have a fantastic week ahead
Mads, I do not envy you with this major 5S task you have on hand. God bless you for that. I know the feels. Check Lowes to see if that Kolbalt compressor has a warranty. I think it may. Ace and Menards has a great selection of hardware. Check there to see if they may have replacement or equivalent bolts, nuts, and washers you may need. The amount of four letter words emitted due to failed tools…. Have a great day sir!
It's a good thing you have plenty of time. What a big job! May God bless you sir.
One suggestion to get the most life out of your compressor: Get a 10 or at least 12 gauge extension cord. In Denmark with handy 220v, you don't max out motor brushes like we do here in 110v-land. Using a wimpy extension cord really risks eating the motor brushes. A heavy gauge cord will save all your tools. Sounds like your old compressor ate one of its brushes. You can still use the old tank for additional air storage, filling with the new compressor.
Best of luck with the engine parts. Happy Holidays.
Stainless steel wool is great for cleaning bronze propellers. One would think it'd scratch the surface, but no! It's polishing and course cleaning at the same time!
Download the exploded parts diagram for your engines from Yanmar (check detailed model numbers) then find a site which you can order by number. Remember that many parts on the engine can be custom orders by the OEM boat builder. Things like alternators, alternator brackets, water pumps, pulleys/sheaves, etc. may have been spec’s and supplied by Yanmar or the others. Yanmar doesn’t make alternators or water pumps, so there are usually multiple options depending on the setup and price point the boat OEM is trying to achieve. You’ll have to check those parts or their manufacturer and model and order separately. I’m sure you know this all already, but thought I’d mention it here for others.
Love your work Mads
Fabulous!
Thank you so much 🙂
@@SailLife I started watching your Athena refit a few weeks ago, seeing your progress was amazing, you're like a machine, I don't know how you do so much.
I'm up to your Trinidad stay so far, I'll be sad when the series is over but so happy it's starting again with your new cat 😊
Thank you for the countless hours of fantastic entertainment.
Hey, Mads!
If something’s driving yer nuts, take the steering wheel out of yer trousers.
😁👍🍻
Haha, good one 😂
Bravo😊
Well done - i like.ypu guys
You rock! Love the videos!
I'm not sure where in Florida Abom 79 is at but he's a machinist you tuber.
He often does repairs on stuff including fixing bolt holes that get mangled removing bolts. If things go poorly he may be cheaper than a new part.
He simply fills the holes and re bores and taps them to spec.
When you go to put on new belts on the engines. Go buy Aerospace protectant and soak the belts in it for a half hour then let them dry for half hour and they will last twice as long and not crack. Try it out!!
My max props were rebuilt, was not cheap but so so worth it to have the extra speed. Extra worth it when you’ve got two props to slow you down:)
😂😂😂 “diesel engines represent a little bit of a gamble“ one of the funniest things I’ve ever heard.
Download the Yanmar 3Ym30 parts manual. There has to be some boating group or owners forum that has a link. I was able to download the entire digital parts manual for the Yanmar 3GM30f, and is that ever handy to have on my phone and ipad. Be sure to determine which engine veryou actually have. Yamar did different engines for different markets, based on the same model, which involved minor but numerous modifications.
Harbor Freight should sponsor you!
I wish! 😁
I wish I had seen your video 15 years ago when I had my aluminum diesel tanks built. Yep I'm going to get some "threaded weld-in doo-dads" and hopefully say Aloha to my uninvited diesel rust preventer film in the bilge. Or plan 2 I'll have a good reason for Rick at the shop to finally teach me how to program the lathe. More will be revealed.
All the best.
Hello from Siesta Key Florida.
Air compressor maybe one of the loudest compressors ever made.
“ engine mount” Very good.
One of my silly pet peeves… People calling them “motor mounts” 😂
Enjoying your content!
Keep up the good work!
Thanks
👍🏼😎🙏🏼
John
Cheers! 😊
you need a much larger gauge extension cord. I used to see this a TON with electric leaf blowers. The voltage drop is most likely what killed your compressor. Southwire has an easy app to check out your voltage drop and what you'd need to upsize to.
I know electric leaf blowers for the most part were rated for 50ft at 12awg, if I remember correctly. Everyone would use the cheap orange 16awg 200ft cords and they'd go toast in no time.
Don't know how far you are from the receptacle but for example if you want 15a at 100ft you need 10awg cord.
It's probably just the startup capacitor which should be easy to find and replace
you have talent and patience i dont have them at the same time . comes from workin on older sh@
I think the engine risk is worth taking, I very much doubt both would ail at the same time sooo 🤞 great update 2x👍
I use Toad supply for my Yanmar parts. Lots of stock and good prices.
Thank You for a Fun and Great video this week.
And I would like to wish ya'll a Very Merry 🎄 and Happy New Year 🎉.
Until next week, Aloha from the Big Island of Hawaii!
Aloha and cheers 🍻
Freedom Unit lmao I love it ....
Free to choose the most stupid system possible, you mean? Free to align yourself with 2 global superpowers (Myanmar and Liberia) as the only countries on the planet using such a stupid system? Free to be jingoistic about making poor choices? Free to indoctrinate you populace into thinking that their "choices" are somehow superior? That sort of freedom seems well worthwhile, doesn't it.......
I have a 3YM30 circa 2014. I believe the AE is a newer version. The 2 pumps you showed earlier look like mine.
Also, check the numbers on the engine mounts. I believe one side of the engine is slightly stiffer than the other.
Good luck 🍀 funding the parts 🤞🏻
Sunday 💪
It seems like less and less time passes between Sundays 🤷♂️ Perhaps that’s just what happens when you get older 🙂
Indeed, just wait until you reach my age 😜 (I'm 47).
Wait till you reach 69 😂🎉
I’m one month from being 44 so you don’t have that big of a head start 😉😉
Has anyone mentioned that the safety yellow on the stairs is wearing down. They are getting less safe by the day. A fresh application of yellow paint is required!
The witness marks on that bracket will show you where to start with the hardware
Madds - With all the work your doing -I would pull the shafts - take them in to assure they are true and streight.....and replace the cutless bearings - The cost is minimal - The possible headach avoided is migraine sized
Always took our boat props to a place in Olathe Kansas called Midwest propeller service they do excellent work. They do props from all over the USA and probably other countries. Don't know about feathering props but I'd call them.
"Freedom Unit based" lolololol... Imperical used by the Empire Darth Mats. At least we have a first reference to his descent into the Dark Side.
There is a Yanmar distributor out of Baton Rouge, Louisiana that is quick and helpful. Not cheap. They take returns on stuff they send out that does not work. Most of the people are very helpful.
Love it thanks for making my Sunday as you do every Sunday take care regards Karl U K 26:15 j
You can wrap a bike chain, once, around your drive shaft. Then using a sawing motion it will clean the shaft without causing the shaft to go out of round.
FYI, Auto parts places have loaner tools...gear puller.
Mads - I am sure that you already know about sourcing fasteners from another lower cost source than the engine manufacturer. I have a specialty fastener shop that I frequent and it saves me a ton of money. I don't use lowes or home depot as they too are very expensive. Good news on the max prop - I have one on my latest refit and was not aware that they were that expensive. I did however get a chance to look at lasdrop dripless units while at workboat this year - I think they may be a more robust design than PYI units. I think its worth checking out. I just ordered one for my Sabre.
Spend the money and get the new molded hoses.
I think that’s a good idea 🙂
I suspect you can download parts diagrams from the manufacturer. Its a bit old fashioned but I find a printed document much faster to peruse. Keep up the great work, you’re living my fantasy life … if only I were 60 years younger. 👍🏻
I use Toad ‘marine they’re very helpful
3YM30 is 29hp engine. I’ll also recommend to install aftermarket panels for the Yanmars, way better and cheaper.. the electronic ones fail a lot.. talk to Fred at PYI…. He’s the MaxProp Guru…. BTW, that are made in Italy..
Aftermarket control panels? Got any recommendations? 🙂
Oh yeah, I realized it’s flexofold that’s the Danish prop - not max prop - I wanted to add a little text thing in the video but forgot. I wonder how many people will spot that mistake 😉🙂
The Raw water pumps are in need of a complete rebuild. There is a company in Fl. called depco pumps. Call them they are very good .
The rebuild of the water pumps is in next week’s video 🙂
At least on the older line (3GM), the raw water pump is actually not made by Yanmar (Johnson?), and can be found for cheaper if not painted grey. I'll also note that yours looks like the design that can fail along the shaft between impeller and pulley, and start leaking raw water out of the middle. Mine did that, replaced it and will some day recondition the failed one.
Great blog why don't you try to put one blog out per day for use all to enjoy for Christmas that would be spiffing 🎉🎉🎉😂
Can't wait for next week 🙌
I know I remember you saying but I forgot where you guys are. I live in MD might be able to come help out a few days or something
Hey Mads. Do Not Throw the Old Air Compressor because You Can Double your Air pressure so you Don’t work the New Air Compressors to Death. Just trying to help you out
The old piston at 6:25 is worrying since it has a dent that looks like a valve hit.
Toad marine is where I get my 2GM parts and great service. Finding the exploded diagram is a bit of pain but once you find them you can order off each list and add parts to cart then return to diagram list
I had to go back and look as I have not ordered parts in a year and my link was broken that had diagrams and parts - now they just show the list that is hyperlinked and you add part to cart then use the browser back function to get to list - ughhh
I wold just have a compression test done, if even over all cylinders, I would trust them 😎
You have two engines...so I would take the chance of using them.
Harbor Freight should be sponsoring you.
That would be awesome! 😁
Those props have less play by far than mine. No vibration under power. I use a different grease than PYI recommends. I find Lubriplate AA to be too runny, so I use another waterproof grease in NLGI grade #1, Chevron Black Pearl, which has the same calcium sulphonate chemistry but in a synthetic base.
Do the plate from Athena, again!
It was such a brilliant solution
The plate? 🙂
Check Ace Hardware for all your nuts and bolts needs. My local ones have the best selection of metric, stainless, and specialty fasteners. More expensive than big box stores but less than marine stores. Also, better selection than big box.
Buying a new compressor is maybe a good thing. Not sure if an el motor was cheaper then a compleet new compressor with tank. Can you not use parts from the old compressor, means the tank you could connect to the new compressor with a T connection so you will then have a double capacity. Also don't forget for the props to have some grease on the moving parts inside. Bols in there should be secured with lock-tide too. Good luck.
One thing you can do to save some money if your sure your only gonna use a tool once or twice is to rent one either from home depot or an auto parts store
Mats nut and bolt store for them and bearings . Cheap cheap cheap compared to brand name or manufacturer.
Next week we build a sand tumbler for the small parts? :)
I would download the pdf breakdowns to always have it
Those engines will be fine. I wouldn't have even rebuilt them. Been working on old diesel since I was 6 yo running a tractor in ffarmland, Indiana. I bet my reputation they would have been better in factory condition. Since you don't know who or how they were rebuilding them.
I highly recommend the Ingersoll Rand 20 gallon compressor. The Harbor Freight stuff is trash. I guarantee it will keep failing. It is not suitably for continuius use. The IR 20 gallon is the last compressor you'll ever buy.
Check out a machine / fabrication shop with a computer cutting table for your brackets it would be wat cheeper.
And as your working with alum on your engine parts i think about some anti size compound for all thoese alum bolts .
Try tractor supply for bolts, they sell them by the pound, cheaper, also yanmar engines are used in a lot of tractors and some of the tractor engine parts will cross over.
Yes there is an EU version and a Usa version for Yanmar
EDIT....
Just unpaused the video to hear you say that you already know about PYI. And then watched the video to the end to hear that PYI has answered all your questions giving the props a clean bill of health. Ooops!! Note to self... watch the whole video first, before commenting ;-)
There is a shop near me in the PNW called PYI, inc., that does a full recondition service on Max Props. They have all the tooling to re-machine the parts to take out blade slop and other tollerance issues. You should be able to get those two props back in working order for significantly less than a new set.
PYI gave those props an OK. No meed to recondition. Mine are worse and work well.
Hehe, no worries 🙂
Good thing about Harbor Freight is theyll except anything returned for whatever reason. At least my location does.
I would love to have a site with the exploded diagram, but I use yanmar shop like you said then I take the part number to toadmarine which I've found to be the cheapest supplier for yanmar OEM parts.