It's really pleasing to see a modeller accept the fact that prototype ballast "Goes everywhere" and not try to eradicate that from his model. This ballasting looks so much more realistic to me compared to those who like to have a precisely bevelled shoulder because that's just not how we do it on the big railway. Top marks, sir. :) PS, I work in signal maintenance and not even *I* understand why they put location cabinets / relay boxes where they do!
Revisiting this one in late March 2024: Instead of PVA and water, I've started using a mix of 3:1 water to CopyDex, which does a lot to quiet down the noise. And don't forget the few drops of washing up liquid.
The orange pipe is used to protect the cables which go inside it from damage by tampers and the like. Before that the cables were either just in the ballast or cleated to the tops of the sleepers. When the orange pipe was first introduced the idea was to put it in a bed with very little ballast so if it got hit by the tamping tines it had room to move or rotate. We then started to fill all the beds with lots of stone and particularly build shoulders on the outside. That left nowhere for the orange pipe to go and so tamper damage returned. The latest is to install hollow sleepers so that the cables can be fed through the sleeper. Your orange wire makes a good looking version.
@@ChadwickModelRailway If you regard it as a pipe then when modelling it I suggest you try and get it as straight as possible rather than looking like a cable. We do also use orange hydraulic hoses for some types of point which wander more like a cable. But your railway is so much better than mine, who am I to criticise. :-)
At the ripe old age of 66 (on 1st August) I've decided to build my first layout (8x4ft) over the Autumn / Winter months. In preparation, I've become a regular viewer and subscriber to your excellent channel. I've also had people think 'subscribe' means 'pay', on my own channel. Thanks for all the help so far - and the more you can do for the absolute beginner, the better! Stephen Power, a Brit...happily ensconced in County Kerry, Ireland.
Afternoon Charlie, I had ,a similar problem and used double sided (25mm) tape on the board according to track plan and a 'Yoga' mat cut to plan layed on it and another run of double sided tape on top of that then press track down (no glues, nails or screws) no noise and easy to relay if need be.
@@ChadwickModelRailway Thanks Charlie, Down here modedeling of any sort is so horrendously expensive so being inonovative railway modellers, we come up with ideas like this. Big thing is, ballast stays between the rails and down the outsides extremely well leaving the center between the tapes as your 'flexible' sound barrier
As usual, your videos make me feel like I've dropped in on a friend's layout for some advice, since we get the whole thing - humor, facial expressions, side comments, and an unpolished result. Thanks, Charlie. Using the handheld vacuum sure seems a lot easier than all the commotion of custom heads, tubing, and cyclones added to a vacuum. Also, the one shown does not require placing anything over the inlet to catch the ballast. Well done. One point, though, the spreader referenced will not ship to the US, but Bachmann does have one listed on Amazon with a side lever for control, which, when shipping from US to US vs UK to US is considered, works out very close to even. (Being a GBR modeller, I am prepared to have a significant portion of my modelling budget spent for international shipping, so that is not the complaint.)
My little Inglenook Sidings layout is built on a 6 x 1 foot shelf. I put the track down on some old 1/8 inch cork sheet cut to the track width, then covered the rest of the layout with 1/8 inch foam core board as a scenic base. Whilst watching this video I realized that the foam core board has played the same role as your blue foam sheet in reducing track noise. If I had it to do over, I'd probably just lay the track directly on thick insulation foam and be done with it, but thanks to you I can now justify what I did to inquisitive friends. Oh, and I might add that even on a tiny layout like mine with only two sets of points, ballesting is The Worst.
The wife's makeup brush is a very light touch ballast spreader and works quite well until she catches you with it. Great stuff, love your videos and the humour. Graham 👍
My husband has the same issue at his club here in Brisbane Australia at his train club , they are undertaking a huge rebuild and the talking point is the noisy cork underlay that has been ballasted , they are going to use the foam and see how it goes
Hi, Charlie. I agree with you. Ballasting is one of my least favorite parts of building a layout. That said, I appreciate the before and after audio comparison. Very helpful.
Hi Charlie. You are right of course but it is an essential part of the realism within the hobby for me. With my latest rebuild going on, you have reminded me I have lots to do also..again!! Can be therapeutic as well of course but a great tutorial to watch back for all who need a heads up. Thanks for another great watch and stay safe…regards, Chris
Hi Charlie, just a tip on how to save money ballasting use cat litter instead it is a lot cheaper per weight. Just make sure you do not have cats otherwise you will have a few unwanted barricades.
Ballasting can be an absolute joy can't it! Another extremely well put together video and well presented so thanks. Next time you're going to tap the track with a spoon can you pre warn me, I got up and answered the door three times before I realised it was you tapping! Only joking, keep up the great content. Cheers.
Points. A trick I have used in the past.. very common with electrical engineers.. remove the Oxygen.. thin film of silicon grease. Points, are at the end of the day, are switches. As the contacts come together, electrickery will jump, and they will arc. Even under nano-volts. Hence why MCB’s have spark quenchers. Lots of thin bits of metal film inside them..
I would really like to know why people gave this video a "thumbs down". This is an honest modeler giving his thoughts and efforts and doing an excellent job so say myself and the 1800+ others who thought so as well. Please keep doing what you are doing, you truly are a joy to watch and learn from! Cheers from your friend in Arizona USA!
Ballasting is one of those pet hates for some but for me it is an absolute joy. I find it to be quite a relaxing job. It is one of those jobs where i can just take my time and not worry on other things. Very nicely put together video charlie.- Nicholas.
Excellent. Yes, double layer of foam (ie layer of 3mm foam on entire baseboard) prevents a bridge between the PVA and the baseboard. We use 3mm closed cell dense foam for entire board, and again cut to size for the track bed. That way the PVA never comes into contact with the ply baseboard top (ie never creates a sound bridge).
@@ChadwickModelRailway A pal saved me with the advice about the self adhesive closed cell foam double layering trick. Its worked a treat on Gort so far. Nearly as whisper quiet as the old peco foam underlay from years ago. Cheers and thanks for all your amazing videos, have been a great training and tutorial aid for me building Gort station. Before any new task I always consult Chadwick model railway video library.
The BR employee who suggested that cables be put in Orange pipes to stop them getting damaged by tampers won the staff suggestion prize in the early 1980s.
@@ChadwickModelRailway interesting. The London Underground (Metropolitan Line) have never used them. Maybe with modern on track machines the technology can identify and avoid the cables in the four foot. Just shows you have to have contemporary photos to keep the details accurate. I like your cable trunking, it makes the scene come alive. i wonder when cables replaced telegraph wires in those areas that retained semaphore signals. i expect that was in the 1970s.
That particular Hornby Signal Box is the one that I have, it's a Midland Railway based Box commonly seen today on the S&C, but were used on various Midland Railway routes of course.
Some useful tips in this to help out the ones who fear this part. Me myself, I quite enjoy ballasting, earphones in and a pint or 12, job done 😆 The orange wire you use, if you were to strip some of the outer sleave either end revealing the strands, they look great painted black and replicate the black cable that runs through them! Tim.
We used the flexyglue by Model Train Projects. It is AWESOME! Keeps the sound down, the ballast is flexible and no prep - just use a syringe! I'm doing this for the first time, so this is very helpful! Maybe I am odd, but I am finding it strangely relaxing. Just turn on some music and get into the zone! Hardest part was finding the best looking and colored ballast, but finally found it.
Charlie thank goodness for your advice to check all track work before ballasting! Just found that my surface point motors foul my railcar’s valance. Doh! Thanks to your copydex advice shouldn’t be too bad lifting and swapping sides. Thanks again! Martin 👍🇬🇧
Excellent video Charlie ! I watch your "lessons" very carefully from France and I learn a lot since I am a beginer. Beyond the strict content, your humour, your light comments and your delicious accent are a real pleasure for me and to be honest, if I lived closer to you, I would really appreciate that we drink a beer (or anythink else) together, talking of course about model railroading. Once again, thank you !
Hi Charlie Once again well done In the past never got as far as ballasting but now retired so here we go. You have given me confidence to have a go. Thanks
HI again Charlie Have used peco underlay in the past Looks acceptable and very quick and easy Can be dressed up when laid to improve appearance Over the years the foam did deteriorate and became a problem to my Rolling stock. They still sell it. Have they overcome this problem as I Am getting on..and a quick solution to ballasting such as This would certainly speed things up. Hope All you perfectionists are not having heart attacks! Please keep the videos coming. Regards Howard
Hi Charlie. Not wanting you to freat and use lots of time on it. On my last shifts I looked closer along a few routes and the ballast as a whole is the same throughout the cess, 4ft, 6ft and 10ft. Some areas will vary of course as you've seen but in general it tends to all be same type of ballast as the way the track bed ballast is layed and tampered is what creates the ballast within the cess along with all sorts of other stuff like vegetation, quite often an awful place to walk if required. Differing amounts are used depending on how much weight or support the track bed requires. Often around bends you'll see a higher mound, direction dependent, on the outer side running rail for extra weight and support, higher than the running rail itself. This and discolouration I feel would give you greater realism. Great video as always
Since Woodland Scenics ballast is made from walnut shells it can be made even finer by grinding it into a powder with a coffee grinder. It can be a slow process if you need a lot of it, but, it’s a great way to make dirt, sand, and all other manner of fine material. Additionally, you can alter the color by mixing in some weathering powders just prior to grinding it.
When your ‘phone rang, I hit ‘pause’ and was about to go out to the kitchen to answer it - until I realised that pausing your video had made it stop ringing! 🤭🙀😆 A nicely done ‘warts-and-all’ video of a tedious job. I saw a prototype ballasting gadget and the London Railway Modelling Exhibition some years ago. At that time, I thought it was quite expensive for something I would use once to ballast my layout, then never use again. I very quickly constructed one of my own from some scrap pieces of plastikard, and it worked perfectly! It wasn’t pretty, but it saved me time and money.
Excellent video Charlie as usual. I've not approached any ballasting yet - still doing my low-level non-scenic boards at the moment; but this has shown the process warts-n-all, which is a refreshing change from all the "look how easy it is" videos out there. Thanks.
The nuts and bolts of railway modeling! Nobody really enjoys ballasting; however, using available tools and new techniques make it survivable. You've certainly shown the most efficient way to complete the task. Great video, Charlie! I always enjoy your lessons! ps - I agree on the different color edging; just pull out the airbrush and solve the problem! Cheers!
When I started building my model railway at the beginning of the first lockdown, I watched loads of TH-cam videos to discover the different ways of ballasting track. The method I adopted was the Chadwick way although I have not got a spreader but instead use a teaspoon to carefully ladle the ballast onto the track, spread it with a finger or soft brush and then, most definitely, use the back of that teaspoon to vibrate it down and off the sleepers. The first bit I did was before learning of the tapping and it was not as neat as after discovering that trick. You are an inspiration Charlie so thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge (O, and of course some of the mistakes!)
Its amazing what we can get at Hobbycraft for our hobby. 46 minutes passed like 20..very enjoyable Charlie. Its really coming along nicely now. Take care..all the best.
Hi Charlie more great tips from your good self funny enough I'm just coming up to that stage on my layout I will most certainly invest in that ballast dispenser. and pipet. thank you.
I read on a forum years ago that a 50/50 water PVA mix was wrong. The poster wrote that you only wanted to fix the ballast down, not turning it into concrete. He recommended a 1/5 glue to 4/5 water mix. The result being that it doesn't set rock hard and therefore reduces noise. The tip I found today that mentions it was from Graham Plowman. An easier way than this? Try a salt shaker.
Chef sauce bottles are great for mixing the glue and water then dispensing it directly from the bottle in a controlled way without having to refill it all the time!
Another excellent tutorial Charlie, I much prefer when it is a scenic landscaping video. I know that I made light of the last video being very hard going but you are good enough to take the time to produce these videos for our benefit from your own personal experience on your layout. I still prefer scenic landscaping 😁, take care Barra.
Hi Charlie! That came out quite nicely! I thought you'd like to know... the orange pipe under the track for signal and point motor wires... that was introduced in the late 80's due to the weight of trains passing overhead crushing the wire and leading to loss of signal, or shorts. If I recall, I believe it was one of the causes of the Clapham Junction crash of 1988, and the resulting solution being the orange pipe. Obviously, with Chadwick being a 1960's/70's layout, the orange tube wouldn't exist for your layouts timeframe. Initially, a narrower version os concrete trunking was laid 'under' the track, as well as next to it... but this method soon was abandoned due to the weight of trains passing overhead would push the track down and crush the conrete trunking underneath... so they abandoned that idea and went to plain wire instead. Here's a couple of pictures of the trunking under points. www.flickr.com/photos/davidwf2009/5662520468/ and www.flickr.com/photos/blue-diesels/2432099142/ And here's the plain wire (and on the left side, you can see it's not at all neat, and the wire just goes everywhere it needs to!). www.flickr.com/photos/d1015/5537043713/ and www.flickr.com/photos/davidwf2009/5607011590/ Hope that's useful! Here's a little tip for you. Once the ballast is all good and dry, most people weather it in with an airbrush... but the problem with an airbrush is that the weathering paint will only sit on the surface of where it was sprayed. My method is to brew up a pot of REALLY strong tea.... just save all the old tea bags you used in the last week. Like when you do with the PVA/water mix... but in smaller amounts... using your pipette, drip it over all your ballast and it will seep into all the cracks and darken it up. Cheers Laura
Another excellent comment Laura and very much appreciated. I’ve tracked the orange tubing down its earliest used being in 1986. Sadly a long time after my layout as you mentioned. The concrete trunking is actually known as the concrete trough, as I’ve been told by many ex BR employees so that put me in my place. I think Peco might be responsible as they label their product as concrete trunking. I must buy you a cuppa at the next model railway show. Take care, regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway I didn't know it was around as early as 1986... so we both learned something! I didn't get interested in trains until 1988, travelling from Doncaster to (ironically) Barnstaple every other weekend (boarding school)... so I didn't see any 'introduction' referenced in a magazine. You're right, BR alled it "Standard Reinforced Concrete Troughing". During my time as the DEMU society's Drawings Officer (I'm currently their Vice-Chair), I scanned a lot of BR drawings... one of which are a full set of diagrams for the troughing segments. Heights varied from 130mm, 170mm, and 240mm, and widths of 250mm, 280mm, 340mm and 440mm (not including the 50mm tall lid). I own a high resolution 3D printer (resin type) which I've used to make window frames two tenths of a mm thick... and I have a rake of wagons that were used by the S&T department, which were frequently used for moving concrete troughing... so as well as making my own troughing for my layout, I can use the same parts for the load of a train. A cuppa is no use to me, LOL, I'm allergic to tea and coffee... but a can of pop will do! LOL!
Wonderful presentation From Charlie “that’ll be the phone then” Bishop 🧏♂️ Seriously a very enjoyable video of ballasting with plenty to take away and emulate Well done chap 👏
Hey Charlie, why not put that blue insulation material on the board first, wide enough so it will not be covered completely with ballast. And on top of that blue material, you could put your trackbed on it, which will be completely covered in ballast. This way you get a double sound insulation between the track and the board. A friend of mine did it like this, and the result is really good when it comes to sound reduction. You might give it a try ...
Charlie instead of using the paintbrush to clean up the last bits of ballast I switched to using a foam “brush” which are really cheap from an art supply store. Loads of guys use them for applying paint washes to rock work so I hope you know what I mean. They are brilliant at getting rid of the last remnants of ballast, you lat it down between the rails and gently run it back and forth. It’s also effective on the outside part of the rail and as the end is pointed in shape also great to tidy the edges of the ballast into a clean and neat shoulder.
Hi Charlie, while I'm not a train hobbyist for my dioramas and wargaming model bases if I need a rubberised glue I use Luke's APS geek gaming scenic fast drying basing clue its very sticky and "tacky" and it never dries hard, might be something to have a look at, although I am not sure what its sound proofing qualities will be. also just want to say I enjoy seeing you layout develop and i pick up a few tips and tricks that i can adapt to my own hobby. thank you and cheerio.
Hi Charlie, another entertaining video. I have an O gauge layout in the garden, its much easier to ballast, but I do use a similar method and tap the rails to settle the ballast, also find IPA better than water. I notice a lot of garden railways are just laid on roofing felt - not very realistic. Well done again.
Very good video again Charlie. I tried my own way of ballasting on my old layout which turned out to be a right pain in the backside. So having watched this video, and coming to a point in my new layout where I’m going to need to ballast, I’ve ordered myself one of these new ballast contraptions as it looks like it makes it a doddle. Thank you 👍🏻
HI Charlie. For sticking down ballast, have you considered HIDE GLUE, as used by string instrument makers ,Water soluble so it can be washed off if required, Stradivari violins,violas ,guitars and cellos have stuck together for hundreds of years
I have the same problem as you using a syringe, all comes gushing out and shifts the ballast layer. I now use an eye dropper, much like your pipette, but free from the local pharmacy!! :D
Hi Charlie, from past use, I now avoid using green or yellow washing up liquid in the PVA mix and opt for the clear variant, I noticed that once dried you get green(or yellow) staining on the inside of the rails. i may have used to much but it's something i noticed later down the road.
Thank you Charlie for another very enjoyable and instructive Video, ballasting, having the Patience of Job comes to mind, that said taking all the care that you do certainly creates very good Trackwork, I should know as being an ex P.Way Subganger I certainly shovelled enough Meldon Quarry Ballast in my Time. I am intrigued as to know how your DustBuster didn’t suck up all the Ballast that you spend so much Time teasing into position. Looking forward to the weathering. Best Wishes.
Thanks Charlie, I really enjoyed this one, as always really informative and entertaining. Having a bit of a lazy day, too hot to go outside so keeping myself occupied building some Metcalfe kits with your back catalogue of video's being streamed to the TV and running in the background...
Hi Charlie watch all your vids brilliant and useful. Had a thought before putting down the fine or lighter ballast outside might be worth gluing and leave to dry the first layer. Then you can sprinkle the white or fines over the top and use a brush to get it right as much as you like and then re glue.
Dear Charlie I am really glad that you added the blue foam on the sides and in the middle, as you are absolutely right, it will be a wretched sound of just wheels rolling, instead of you being able to enjoy the rolling of trains and soundlocos. I will be doing the same thing myself with a 3mm base and then a 5mm top-layer. With regards to your wife offering tea; very important not to forget about that. As you are probably well aware: a happy wife is a happy life (or a happy modeller) :D . I also love seeing you experiment 'live on the telly' with this, an example is the cess. You showed us how and what, then decided that you did not like it. Perhaps if I may give a suggestion: use a light brown sand-like ballast to create the illusion of a gangway. This then also contrasts much better with the grey-blend ballast that you used for the track. Thank you so much for the expansive video, I notice that I am glued (no pun intended, or?) to my seat for the full 47 minutes to see what you do, how you do it, as well as keep in mind what tips and tricks you give your viewer. Great job on the ballasting, because it looks marvellous and immediately gives the layout such a boost, it really pops out. Warm regards from the Netherlands Richard
Hi Charlie, I covered the 12mm top wood with 9mm fibreboard (easy to put pins in) and laid my track on 3mm self adhesive latex rubber. If I turn the sound off I cannot hear the locos etc even after ballasting. Great videos.
great stuff charlie. i've seen other ballasting videos by you. it looks really tedious, but i find it fascinating. thank you. I'm in bouzigues on holiday now. but it's friday and the weekend starts here. yes i do have a life as well. tata
Lovely video as always Charlie. Here in the Netherlands bookbinding glue is a popular glue for ballasting, since it stays flexible after drying, and as such lessens the vibrations transferred to the baseboard. I havent been able to test it myself but others have recommended it to me. It does seem to be relatively similair to Copydex however, so it might not make to much of a difference on your layout.
I used more or less the same techniques as you did Charlie to do my ballasting. You can see the result in my channel photo. I put a little IPA in the glue mix as well I found it flowed better. I also used a piece of 2x1 wood to tamp the ballast down. I wouldn't use a spoon it may damage the railhead. Keith
I have used a drop of dark indian ink in the glue/water mix, which makes the ballast look a little more "used", though it's pretty much a apply everywhere deal, not so much control. On reflection I think a better way is to use sleeper grime over the main section of ballast and leave the cess clear of paint to get the contrast you're looking for.
“That’ll be the phone then.” Almost every time. I look forward to that!
It haunts me Keith!
It's really pleasing to see a modeller accept the fact that prototype ballast "Goes everywhere" and not try to eradicate that from his model. This ballasting looks so much more realistic to me compared to those who like to have a precisely bevelled shoulder because that's just not how we do it on the big railway. Top marks, sir. :)
PS, I work in signal maintenance and not even *I* understand why they put location cabinets / relay boxes where they do!
Great comment Ron. Regards Charlie
Great how to....Hi Hate ballasting and all the problems it can create, that's why I went for pre ballasted track..
I don’t blame you mate.
Revisiting this one in late March 2024: Instead of PVA and water, I've started using a mix of 3:1 water to CopyDex, which does a lot to quiet down the noise. And don't forget the few drops of washing up liquid.
Many thanks for your tip, Jack. Regards, Charlie.
The orange pipe is used to protect the cables which go inside it from damage by tampers and the like. Before that the cables were either just in the ballast or cleated to the tops of the sleepers. When the orange pipe was first introduced the idea was to put it in a bed with very little ballast so if it got hit by the tamping tines it had room to move or rotate. We then started to fill all the beds with lots of stone and particularly build shoulders on the outside. That left nowhere for the orange pipe to go and so tamper damage returned. The latest is to install hollow sleepers so that the cables can be fed through the sleeper. Your orange wire makes a good looking version.
Thanks John, it’s great to have you on side. Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway If you regard it as a pipe then when modelling it I suggest you try and get it as straight as possible rather than looking like a cable. We do also use orange hydraulic hoses for some types of point which wander more like a cable. But your railway is so much better than mine, who am I to criticise. :-)
At the ripe old age of 66 (on 1st August) I've decided to build my first layout (8x4ft) over the Autumn / Winter months. In preparation, I've become a regular viewer and subscriber to your excellent channel. I've also had people think 'subscribe' means 'pay', on my own channel. Thanks for all the help so far - and the more you can do for the absolute beginner, the better! Stephen Power, a Brit...happily ensconced in County Kerry, Ireland.
Thanks Stephen, and it’s great to have you on board mate. Regards Charlie
Afternoon Charlie, I had ,a similar problem and used double sided (25mm) tape on the board
according to track plan and a 'Yoga' mat cut to plan layed on it and another run of double sided
tape on top of that then press track down (no glues, nails or screws) no noise and easy to relay if
need be.
Create advice, Wayne, I never thought about using a yoga mat. Regards, Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway Thanks Charlie, Down here modedeling of any sort
is so horrendously expensive so being inonovative railway modellers, we come
up with ideas like this. Big thing is, ballast stays between the rails and down
the outsides extremely well leaving the center between the tapes as your
'flexible' sound barrier
What you need, IMO, is a connector between the ballast spreader and the ballast container itself OR a larger hopper to get a bigger run.
You’re right mate, a bigger hopper is required. Regards Charlie
As usual, your videos make me feel like I've dropped in on a friend's layout for some advice, since we get the whole thing - humor, facial expressions, side comments, and an unpolished result. Thanks, Charlie.
Using the handheld vacuum sure seems a lot easier than all the commotion of custom heads, tubing, and cyclones added to a vacuum. Also, the one shown does not require placing anything over the inlet to catch the ballast. Well done.
One point, though, the spreader referenced will not ship to the US, but Bachmann does have one listed on Amazon with a side lever for control, which, when shipping from US to US vs UK to US is considered, works out very close to even. (Being a GBR modeller, I am prepared to have a significant portion of my modelling budget spent for international shipping, so that is not the complaint.)
Thanks Jack, I’m so pleased that you find the channel interesting. Stay safe, regards, Charlie
My little Inglenook Sidings layout is built on a 6 x 1 foot shelf. I put the track down on some old 1/8 inch cork sheet cut to the track width, then covered the rest of the layout with 1/8 inch foam core board as a scenic base. Whilst watching this video I realized that the foam core board has played the same role as your blue foam sheet in reducing track noise. If I had it to do over, I'd probably just lay the track directly on thick insulation foam and be done with it, but thanks to you I can now justify what I did to inquisitive friends. Oh, and I might add that even on a tiny layout like mine with only two sets of points, ballesting is The Worst.
Great comment Andrew, it’s a drag at the best of time.
The wife's makeup brush is a very light touch ballast spreader and works quite well until she catches you with it. Great stuff, love your videos and the humour. Graham 👍
Thanks Graham it’s great to have you on board mate. Regards Charlie
Less fearful of “battling” ballasting after watching this helpful video. Thanks for sharing.
I’m so pleased that you found it useful Alex. Regards Charlie
My husband has the same issue at his club here in Brisbane Australia at his train club , they are undertaking a huge rebuild and the talking point is the noisy cork underlay that has been ballasted , they are going to use the foam and see how it goes
A good idea and I wish them well. Regards Charlie
Very useful and helpful video as always, huge thanks Jo
I’m so pleased that you found it useful Jo
This just shows how much work and effortb goes in to acheiving the desired effects of ballasting.
Yes ballasting is never that straightforward, but if done well, it does look lovely.
Cheers Shipmate - purchased one of Johns ballast hoppers.
That’s great James, I hope it works out for you. Regards, Charlie
Hi, Charlie. I agree with you. Ballasting is one of my least favorite parts of building a layout. That said, I appreciate the before and after audio comparison. Very helpful.
Thanks Ron, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting.
Regards Charlie.
Slow painstaking work Charlie...I was thinking how dark it all looked until you changed it completely - well done...
Thanks David, regards Charlie
The phone bit reminded me of Faulty Towers, Cool Vid! Cheers! 😃👍👍
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it mate. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie. You are right of course but it is an essential part of the realism within the hobby for me. With my latest rebuild going on, you have reminded me I have lots to do also..again!! Can be therapeutic as well of course but a great tutorial to watch back for all who need a heads up. Thanks for another great watch and stay safe…regards, Chris
What a heartwarming comment Chris
Regards Charlie.
Hi Charlie, just a tip on how to save money ballasting use cat litter instead it is a lot cheaper per weight. Just make sure you do not have cats otherwise you will have a few unwanted barricades.
An interesting tip, Martin, I wonder how many people take you up on your advice. Regards, Charlie
Ballasting can be an absolute joy can't it! Another extremely well put together video and well presented so thanks. Next time you're going to tap the track with a spoon can you pre warn me, I got up and answered the door three times before I realised it was you tapping! Only joking, keep up the great content. Cheers.
So glad that you enjoyed it Dave. Regards Charlie
Points. A trick I have used in the past.. very common with electrical engineers.. remove the Oxygen.. thin film of silicon grease. Points, are at the end of the day, are switches. As the contacts come together, electrickery will jump, and they will arc. Even under nano-volts. Hence why MCB’s have spark quenchers. Lots of thin bits of metal film inside them..
You’re not the 1st to suggest this Kris. One chap mentioned having a couple of drops of oil to the moving parts prior to glueing. Regards Charlie
Very interesting indeed. I have to agree, not a task that I enjoy in any way shape or form! These really are brilliant videos.
Thanks Aaron, I do hope they help in this arduous task. Regards, Charlie
Love the video hope there more to come.
Every two weeks mate. Regards Charlie
I would really like to know why people gave this video a "thumbs down". This is an honest modeler giving his thoughts and efforts and doing an excellent job so say myself and the 1800+ others who thought so as well. Please keep doing what you are doing, you truly are a joy to watch and learn from! Cheers from your friend in Arizona USA!
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it Joseph. Stay safe. Regards Charlie
Might well be someone hitting the wrong button and not noticing.
Ballasting is one of those pet hates for some but for me it is an absolute joy. I find it to be quite a relaxing job. It is one of those jobs where i can just take my time and not worry on other things. Very nicely put together video charlie.- Nicholas.
A fair point Nicholas, I just did too much in one go to enhance the video content. Regards Charlie
I do as well Nick - do we need treatment perhaps?!
Great video as always Charlie! Personally, I find ballasting to be very relaxing...
Me too!
Perhaps with the right music and without a deadline!
Regards Charlie
Excellent. Yes, double layer of foam (ie layer of 3mm foam on entire baseboard) prevents a bridge between the PVA and the baseboard. We use 3mm closed cell dense foam for entire board, and again cut to size for the track bed. That way the PVA never comes into contact with the ply baseboard top (ie never creates a sound bridge).
And where were you when I was designing mine! Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway A pal saved me with the advice about the self adhesive closed cell foam double layering trick. Its worked a treat on Gort so far. Nearly as whisper quiet as the old peco foam underlay from years ago. Cheers and thanks for all your amazing videos, have been a great training and tutorial aid for me building Gort station. Before any new task I always consult Chadwick model railway video library.
What a heartwarming comment, regards Charlie
Great video, nice you didn't rush the subject, as you said people well notice bad ballasting.
Thanks Corin, regards Charlie
im sorry but that is just your line lol *phone rings* = "that'll be the phone then" cracks me up every time! 😂😂 Great video as always!
I’m so pleased that you enjoy the channel Mark.
The BR employee who suggested that cables be put in Orange pipes to stop them getting damaged by tampers won the staff suggestion prize in the early 1980s.
But now I believe that they are being discontinued!
@@ChadwickModelRailway interesting. The London Underground (Metropolitan Line) have never used them. Maybe with modern on track machines the technology can identify and avoid the cables in the four foot.
Just shows you have to have contemporary photos to keep the details accurate. I like your cable trunking, it makes the scene come alive. i wonder when cables replaced telegraph wires in those areas that retained semaphore signals. i expect that was in the 1970s.
That particular Hornby Signal Box is the one that I have, it's a Midland Railway based Box commonly seen today on the S&C, but were used on various Midland Railway routes of course.
Yes sadly it’s the wrong one for me I’ll have to invest in a GWR version. Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway I believe Bachmann do a GWR signal box but I could be mistaken
Some useful tips in this to help out the ones who fear this part. Me myself, I quite enjoy ballasting, earphones in and a pint or 12, job done 😆
The orange wire you use, if you were to strip some of the outer sleave either end revealing the strands, they look great painted black and replicate the black cable that runs through them!
Tim.
Great tip Tim, much appreciated.
I'm with you there tim, it can be quite therapeutic, the pints not ballasting lol
We used the flexyglue by Model Train Projects. It is AWESOME! Keeps the sound down, the ballast is flexible and no prep - just use a syringe!
I'm doing this for the first time, so this is very helpful! Maybe I am odd, but I am finding it strangely relaxing. Just turn on some music and get into the zone!
Hardest part was finding the best looking and colored ballast, but finally found it.
That's great Craig but I just can't seem to buy it, here in the UK.
Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway that's a bummer that they won't ship to the UK : ( it really is nice to use.
Charlie thank goodness for your advice to check all track work before ballasting! Just found that my surface point motors foul my railcar’s valance. Doh! Thanks to your copydex advice shouldn’t be too bad lifting and swapping sides. Thanks again! Martin 👍🇬🇧
Glad I could help Martin.
Excellent video Charlie ! I watch your "lessons" very carefully from France and I learn a lot since I am a beginer. Beyond the strict content, your humour, your light comments and your delicious accent are a real pleasure for me and to be honest, if I lived closer to you, I would really appreciate that we drink a beer (or anythink else) together, talking of course about model railroading. Once again, thank you !
What a heart warming comment Bernard. Stay safe. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie
Once again well done
In the past never got as far as ballasting but now retired so here we go.
You have given me confidence to have a go.
Thanks
That’s great news Howard, I wish you luck. Regards Charlie
HI again Charlie
Have used peco underlay in the past
Looks acceptable and very quick and easy
Can be dressed up when laid to improve appearance
Over the years the foam did deteriorate and became a problem to my
Rolling stock.
They still sell it. Have they overcome this problem as I
Am getting on..and a quick solution to ballasting such as
This would certainly speed things up.
Hope All you perfectionists are not having heart attacks!
Please keep the videos coming.
Regards Howard
That was a really great, interesting and informative vid. Love the Plasser and Theurer spoon. Bit cheaper than the real machine..
Thanks Will, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it mate. Regards Charlie
Great video Charlie - presented well and with really useful product quotes.
Thanks Phil, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
Hi Charlie. Not wanting you to freat and use lots of time on it.
On my last shifts I looked closer along a few routes and the ballast as a whole is the same throughout the cess, 4ft, 6ft and 10ft.
Some areas will vary of course as you've seen but in general it tends to all be same type of ballast as the way the track bed ballast is layed and tampered is what creates the ballast within the cess along with all sorts of other stuff like vegetation, quite often an awful place to walk if required.
Differing amounts are used depending on how much weight or support the track bed requires. Often around bends you'll see a higher mound, direction dependent, on the outer side running rail for extra weight and support, higher than the running rail itself.
This and discolouration I feel would give you greater realism.
Great video as always
Thanks Rob for a useful comment.
Since Woodland Scenics ballast is made from walnut shells it can be made even finer by grinding it into a powder with a coffee grinder. It can be a slow process if you need a lot of it, but, it’s a great way to make dirt, sand, and all other manner of fine material. Additionally, you can alter the color by mixing in some weathering powders just prior to grinding it.
The great tip about the grinding Bruce, regards Charlie
When your ‘phone rang, I hit ‘pause’ and was about to go out to the kitchen to answer it - until I realised that pausing your video had made it stop ringing! 🤭🙀😆
A nicely done ‘warts-and-all’ video of a tedious job.
I saw a prototype ballasting gadget and the London Railway Modelling Exhibition some years ago. At that time, I thought it was quite expensive for something I would use once to ballast my layout, then never use again.
I very quickly constructed one of my own from some scrap pieces of plastikard, and it worked perfectly! It wasn’t pretty, but it saved me time and money.
A great comment Perry, regards Charlie.
Excellent video Charlie as usual. I've not approached any ballasting yet - still doing my low-level non-scenic boards at the moment; but this has shown the process warts-n-all, which is a refreshing change from all the "look how easy it is" videos out there. Thanks.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it John, and the honesty of the difficulties one can encounter. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie,
Very enjoyable, thank you mate! Regards Mark
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Mark.
Stumbled across you, I enjoyed your passion and appreciate your work. Thanks
Thanks Jimmy, I’m so pleased that you have found the channel interesting. I do hope that you’ve subscribed, regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, another enjoyable video which always goes well with a nice cuppa and a few digestives .
Sweet and sour veg for me, same observation.
It’s always chocolate biscuits with me fellas! Regards Charlie
When your wife first spoke on the phone, I thought you had speeded up her voice, like in a old comedy sketch.... that would of been so funny.
My supper is a very serious subject J.
The nuts and bolts of railway modeling! Nobody really enjoys ballasting; however, using available tools and new techniques make it survivable. You've certainly shown the most efficient way to complete the task. Great video, Charlie! I always enjoy your lessons! ps - I agree on the different color edging; just pull out the airbrush and solve the problem! Cheers!
Thanks Pat, a reassuring comment thankfully. Regards Charlie
When I started building my model railway at the beginning of the first lockdown, I watched loads of TH-cam videos to discover the different ways of ballasting track. The method I adopted was the Chadwick way although I have not got a spreader but instead use a teaspoon to carefully ladle the ballast onto the track, spread it with a finger or soft brush and then, most definitely, use the back of that teaspoon to vibrate it down and off the sleepers. The first bit I did was before learning of the tapping and it was not as neat as after discovering that trick. You are an inspiration Charlie so thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge (O, and of course some of the mistakes!)
What a heartwarming comment John. I’m so pleased that you find the channel interesting. Regards Charlie
Looks like at long last i need to take up the sundeala and start again. Thanks as always for the information and inspiration
That might be a wise move John. Regards Charlie
Its amazing what we can get at Hobbycraft for our hobby. 46 minutes passed like 20..very enjoyable Charlie. Its really coming along nicely now. Take care..all the best.
Thanks Tim, you’re too kind mate. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie more great tips from your good self funny enough I'm just coming up to that stage on my layout I will most certainly invest in that ballast dispenser. and pipet. thank you.
You’re most welcome Tony.
Regards Charlie
Have a look at Bexhill west, great little vacuum solution, cost a few quid , but well worth it
Yes I am aware of the great technique he has adopted.
Regards Charlie
Thanks as ever Charlie. I have some ballasting to do!
You’re most welcome Robin.
The joys of ballasting peco code 75 concrete track
Not much pleasure B21.
Well done Charlie, another well present video.
You certainly give us alternatives for ballasting our railways, cheers Paul
Thanks Paul I’m so pleased that you found it useful. Stay safe, regards Charlie
I read on a forum years ago that a 50/50 water PVA mix was wrong. The poster wrote that you only wanted to fix the ballast down, not turning it into concrete. He recommended a 1/5 glue to 4/5 water mix. The result being that it doesn't set rock hard and therefore reduces noise. The tip I found today that mentions it was from Graham Plowman.
An easier way than this? Try a salt shaker.
An interesting comment but I wonder if when cleaning, you might Hoover it all up!
i use fine ballast dont get it in to your points omg what a night mare i had the fine ballast collects where the spring is thank you for the upload .
I’m so pleased that you found it useful Phil. Regards, Charlie
Chef sauce bottles are great for mixing the glue and water then dispensing it directly from the bottle in a controlled way without having to refill it all the time!
Thanks Iain, for a useful tip. Regards, Charlie
Great how to Charlie!! Thanks for sharing! Cheers Onno.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Onno.
Another excellent tutorial Charlie, I much prefer when it is a scenic landscaping video. I know that I made light of the last video being very hard going but you are good enough to take the time to produce these videos for our benefit from your own personal experience on your layout. I still prefer scenic landscaping 😁, take care Barra.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed this one Barra. However they can’t all be landscaping!. Regards Charlie
Thank you for the video, always enjoy the useful tips on the different processes in modeling a railway.
Thanks Chris, I’m so pleased that you found the video useful. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie!
That came out quite nicely!
I thought you'd like to know... the orange pipe under the track for signal and point motor wires... that was introduced in the late 80's due to the weight of trains passing overhead crushing the wire and leading to loss of signal, or shorts.
If I recall, I believe it was one of the causes of the Clapham Junction crash of 1988, and the resulting solution being the orange pipe.
Obviously, with Chadwick being a 1960's/70's layout, the orange tube wouldn't exist for your layouts timeframe.
Initially, a narrower version os concrete trunking was laid 'under' the track, as well as next to it... but this method soon was abandoned due to the weight of trains passing overhead would push the track down and crush the conrete trunking underneath... so they abandoned that idea and went to plain wire instead.
Here's a couple of pictures of the trunking under points.
www.flickr.com/photos/davidwf2009/5662520468/
and
www.flickr.com/photos/blue-diesels/2432099142/
And here's the plain wire (and on the left side, you can see it's not at all neat, and the wire just goes everywhere it needs to!).
www.flickr.com/photos/d1015/5537043713/
and
www.flickr.com/photos/davidwf2009/5607011590/
Hope that's useful!
Here's a little tip for you.
Once the ballast is all good and dry, most people weather it in with an airbrush... but the problem with an airbrush is that the weathering paint will only sit on the surface of where it was sprayed.
My method is to brew up a pot of REALLY strong tea.... just save all the old tea bags you used in the last week.
Like when you do with the PVA/water mix... but in smaller amounts... using your pipette, drip it over all your ballast and it will seep into all the cracks and darken it up.
Cheers
Laura
Another excellent comment Laura and very much appreciated. I’ve tracked the orange tubing down its earliest used being in 1986. Sadly a long time after my layout as you mentioned. The concrete trunking is actually known as the concrete trough, as I’ve been told by many ex BR employees so that put me in my place. I think Peco might be responsible as they label their product as concrete trunking.
I must buy you a cuppa at the next model railway show.
Take care, regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway I didn't know it was around as early as 1986... so we both learned something!
I didn't get interested in trains until 1988, travelling from Doncaster to (ironically) Barnstaple every other weekend (boarding school)... so I didn't see any 'introduction' referenced in a magazine.
You're right, BR alled it "Standard Reinforced Concrete Troughing".
During my time as the DEMU society's Drawings Officer (I'm currently their Vice-Chair), I scanned a lot of BR drawings... one of which are a full set of diagrams for the troughing segments.
Heights varied from 130mm, 170mm, and 240mm, and widths of 250mm, 280mm, 340mm and 440mm (not including the 50mm tall lid).
I own a high resolution 3D printer (resin type) which I've used to make window frames two tenths of a mm thick... and I have a rake of wagons that were used by the S&T department, which were frequently used for moving concrete troughing... so as well as making my own troughing for my layout, I can use the same parts for the load of a train.
A cuppa is no use to me, LOL, I'm allergic to tea and coffee... but a can of pop will do! LOL!
Great comment Laura, the cokes are on me.
Thank you Charlie another helpful video 👍
Thanks John, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards Charlie
"You'll spend more on your heating bill....." Words from the wise :) LOL Always great videos
I’m so pleased that you found it amusing Kevin. Regards Charlie
Great video. Learned quite a lot and saw some very nice features.
Thanks David, I’m so pleased that you found it useful. Regards Charlie
Brilliantly explained and shown as always another great video Charlie
Thanks Simon, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it mate. Regards Charlie
Another excellent video Charlie.
Thanks David, you’re too kind, regards Charlie
Another great video and some great tips. So great to watch your new video to relax after a hard day at work. Thanks Charlie
I’m so pleased that you found the video a little light relief. Regards Charlie
Wonderful presentation From Charlie “that’ll be the phone then” Bishop 🧏♂️ Seriously a very enjoyable video of ballasting with plenty to take away and emulate Well done chap 👏
Thanks Kev you’re far too kind mate. Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway credit where credit is due👏
Hey Charlie, why not put that blue insulation material on the board first, wide enough so it will not be covered completely with ballast. And on top of that blue material, you could put your trackbed on it, which will be completely covered in ballast. This way you get a double sound insulation between the track and the board.
A friend of mine did it like this, and the result is really good when it comes to sound reduction.
You might give it a try ...
An excellent point Mark, but sadly a bit late for this part of the layout. Regards Charlie
good tip keep up the good work on you layout an stay safe lee
Thanks Lee, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards Charlie
nice one charlie like your videos derek.
Thanks Derek, regards Charlie
Charlie instead of using the paintbrush to clean up the last bits of ballast I switched to using a foam “brush” which are really cheap from an art supply store. Loads of guys use them for applying paint washes to rock work so I hope you know what I mean. They are brilliant at getting rid of the last remnants of ballast, you lat it down between the rails and gently run it back and forth. It’s also effective on the outside part of the rail and as the end is pointed in shape also great to tidy the edges of the ballast into a clean and neat shoulder.
An interesting comment Sean, thank you. Regards Charlie
Excellent work yet again Charlie , well done
Thanks John, regards Charlie
Thanks Charlie, another great video from the Master! Look forward to two weeks from now.
Thanks Michael you’re too kind mate. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, while I'm not a train hobbyist for my dioramas and wargaming model bases if I need a rubberised glue I use Luke's APS geek gaming scenic fast drying basing clue its very sticky and "tacky" and it never dries hard, might be something to have a look at, although I am not sure what its sound proofing qualities will be.
also just want to say I enjoy seeing you layout develop and i pick up a few tips and tricks that i can adapt to my own hobby. thank you and cheerio.
Thanks Peter, that’s kind of you to say so. I’ll check out Luke’s glue.
Nice vid. I always enjoy your informative and entertaining presentations.
Thanks Donald I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards Charlie
Just about ready to start blasting my layout will definitely be following your tips. Another great stream. 👍
I’m so pleased that you found it useful Golden. Regards Charlie
Another interesting and well put together video, with plenty of tips. Thanks Charlie look forward to the next video.
Thanks Paul, it’s great to have you on board. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, another entertaining video. I have an O gauge layout in the garden, its much easier to ballast, but I do use a similar method and tap the rails to settle the ballast, also find IPA better than water. I notice a lot of garden railways are just laid on roofing felt - not very realistic. Well done again.
I’m so pleased you enjoyed it Les. And also that you take the trouble to lay ballast unlike some. Regards Charlie
Thanks Charlie, really excellent informative video as always, can't wait to get ballasting
It’s not that exciting Alan! Regards Charlie
Very good video again Charlie. I tried my own way of ballasting on my old layout which turned out to be a right pain in the backside. So having watched this video, and coming to a point in my new layout where I’m going to need to ballast, I’ve ordered myself one of these new ballast contraptions as it looks like it makes it a doddle. Thank you 👍🏻
That’s great news Jon, it certainly makes the job somewhat easier. Regards Charlie
HI Charlie. For sticking down ballast, have you considered HIDE GLUE, as used by string instrument makers ,Water soluble so it can be washed off if required, Stradivari violins,violas ,guitars and cellos have stuck together for hundreds of years
That's interesting Trevor, have you used it?
Regards Charlie
Always enjoy your videos and I look forward to getting to this stage one day, your tips will be very useful thanks for sharing
That’s very kind of you to say so.
I have the same problem as you using a syringe, all comes gushing out and shifts the ballast layer. I now use an eye dropper, much like your pipette, but free from the local pharmacy!! :D
Clever minds think alike Neil.
Hi Charlie, from past use, I now avoid using green or yellow washing up liquid in the PVA mix and opt for the clear variant, I noticed that once dried you get green(or yellow) staining on the inside of the rails. i may have used to much but it's something i noticed later down the road.
Thanks DJ, it’s an interesting observation. Regards Charlie
Great video Charlie. That’s a Midland signal box by the way! I would have thought a better place for it would be the fork between the tracks
You’re right on both counts. So I may have to replace it with a GWR one, we shall see. Regards John
Thank you Charlie for another very enjoyable and instructive Video, ballasting, having the Patience of Job comes to mind, that said taking all the care that you do certainly creates very good Trackwork, I should know as being an ex P.Way Subganger I certainly shovelled enough Meldon Quarry Ballast in my Time. I am intrigued as to know how your DustBuster didn’t suck up all the Ballast that you spend so much Time teasing into position. Looking forward to the weathering. Best Wishes.
Hi Peter, it just seems to suck up the nearest ballast and not the stuff that’s between the sleepers, quite bizarre really. Regards Charlie
Thanks Charlie, I really enjoyed this one, as always really informative and entertaining. Having a bit of a lazy day, too hot to go outside so keeping myself occupied building some Metcalfe kits with your back catalogue of video's being streamed to the TV and running in the background...
I’m so pleased you found it interesting Chris, and perhaps tackle it in the later stage. Regards Charlie
Hilarious phone call with your wife. Reminded me of the days when Benny Hill was popular here in the states. Also great video as usual!
Thanks Lou, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
Hi Charlie watch all your vids brilliant and useful. Had a thought before putting down the fine or lighter ballast outside might be worth gluing and leave to dry the first layer. Then you can sprinkle the white or fines over the top and use a brush to get it right as much as you like
and then re glue.
Exact thoughts that occurred to me Clive, and I shall certainly have a go next time I get out the ballast. Regards Charlie
Dear Charlie
I am really glad that you added the blue foam on the sides and in the middle, as you are absolutely right, it will be a wretched sound of just wheels rolling, instead of you being able to enjoy the rolling of trains and soundlocos. I will be doing the same thing myself with a 3mm base and then a 5mm top-layer.
With regards to your wife offering tea; very important not to forget about that. As you are probably well aware: a happy wife is a happy life (or a happy modeller) :D .
I also love seeing you experiment 'live on the telly' with this, an example is the cess. You showed us how and what, then decided that you did not like it. Perhaps if I may give a suggestion: use a light brown sand-like ballast to create the illusion of a gangway. This then also contrasts much better with the grey-blend ballast that you used for the track.
Thank you so much for the expansive video, I notice that I am glued (no pun intended, or?) to my seat for the full 47 minutes to see what you do, how you do it, as well as keep in mind what tips and tricks you give your viewer. Great job on the ballasting, because it looks marvellous and immediately gives the layout such a boost, it really pops out.
Warm regards from the Netherlands
Richard
Thank you for such a heartwarming comment Richard. I’m so pleased that you enjoy my channel, regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, I covered the 12mm top wood with 9mm fibreboard (easy to put pins in) and laid my track on 3mm self adhesive latex rubber. If I turn the sound off I cannot hear the locos etc even after ballasting. Great videos.
Clearly a great method Bernard. Regards Charlie
great stuff charlie. i've seen other ballasting videos by you. it looks really tedious, but i find it fascinating. thank you. I'm in bouzigues on holiday now. but it's friday and the weekend starts here. yes i do have a life as well. tata
Good for you Kevin have a great time mate. Regards Charlie
Lovely video as always Charlie.
Here in the Netherlands bookbinding glue is a popular glue for ballasting, since it stays flexible after drying, and as such lessens the vibrations transferred to the baseboard. I havent been able to test it myself but others have recommended it to me. It does seem to be relatively similair to Copydex however, so it might not make to much of a difference on your layout.
Thanks mate, interesting option perhaps. Regards Charlie
I used more or less the same techniques as you did Charlie to do my ballasting. You can see the result in my channel photo.
I put a little IPA in the glue mix as well I found it flowed better. I also used a piece of 2x1 wood to tamp the ballast down. I wouldn't use a spoon it may damage the railhead. Keith
Interesting points Keith thank you very much, regards Charlie
I have used a drop of dark indian ink in the glue/water mix, which makes the ballast look a little more "used", though it's pretty much a apply everywhere deal, not so much control. On reflection I think a better way is to use sleeper grime over the main section of ballast and leave the cess clear of paint to get the contrast you're looking for.
I think that you’re right Neil.