Truck Hitch Crane Build Ep. 5
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ส.ค. 2024
- The next piece in line to machine is the pipe that will be the housing the the nylon bushing and support the column. We'll use the Monarch lathe and setup the steady rest to support the long workpiece then get it bored and finished to accept the nylon bushing.
Next video I'll get the nylon machined, pressed into the tube and finished ready for welding.
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Use a sidecranked trailer tongue jack for a 'foot' for the leg.
You’re as comfortable on that lathe as I am on a 14” sliding table saw. It’s satisfying to be able to teach others what you know. I’m enjoying the series.
We need more of you on your lathes and milling machines, we miss that
Adam, maybe the foot off of a scaffold frame that has the adjustable screw on the bottom for leveling would work on the bottom of the leg of the crane. That way if you had to pick up something out of the grass or dirt or mud or uneven ground, you could adjust the the lower end and put a pad under it to take the weight
Or the jack off of a boat trailer with a wheel so if he needed he could pull forward or back and it still be supported
I was thinking the same for a scaffolding foot. I think it would be perfect for this.
About a dozen others have already suggested this in other comments. It's the obvious solution. Too bad none of us, including me, bother to read the comments before typing.
Yea but what the heck would you do with the three legged scaffold that is left?
Haha. Jk.
Oh, yeah! So much more fun to read the other comments AFTER you leave yours. Lol
So helpful how you patiently step through your work flow and explain how to set up the measurements. No-one else takes the time to do that the way you do 🙏
I think that when you get a real load in the truck that you may have a lot of trouble releasing the foot. The idea of a trailer jack seems like a really good solution. Love the whole concept, always wanted a small truck crane. Never thought about a hitch mounted one.
As a novice, I love watching these videos. Machining is so fascinating. It's just amazing how much that big ass boring bar deflects yet the cut is clean and true. Ever since I started machining I just love how steel and material can be cut, sheared, shaved, bored and manipulated into amazing things. The techniques are so varied and numerous you really can't ever know it all. Watching you illuminates the importance of order of operations. For example, pressing that teflon in before boring it makes sense because of how soft it is. My first thought would have been to machine it, then press it in. I would have been wrong and had an oval bore or a slight square due to chuck jaws. You can learn every single time you do something. It's the little things that make the biggest difference. Always getting better and finding ways to become more accurate, safe, and creative. Keep up the great work and thanks for sharing as always.
Adam, I’m one of those concerned about the tail dropping when loaded. There’s slack when it’s unloaded for sure, but with an extra load on the truck bed, then the foot is going to be hard onto the ground and all the slack will be taken up. There won’t be any slack to lift the foot and free the pin, without lifting that load. To get the pin out you’ll need to jack up under the cross beam. Better weld a plate under it so your screw jack, or bottle jack, can lift it, and definitely take the jack and some blocks with you the first few times you use this!
Why not just put a flat plate on it and use a bottle jack for the support ? Plus it will remove the weight of the problematic leg
I've been thinking the same thing. Even if the load is so light that there's no measurable sag in the suspension, you still have the problem of the holes-n-pin design not having enough adjustability to fit a lot of ground surfaces. It'll be no problem on the concrete, but what do you do when it's a gravel driveway or you're pulled out into the lawn to pick up something? Maybe his luck is better than mine, but I always seem to park in exactly the worst spot possible and can envision me trying to slip some boards under the drop leg to shim things up!
Haven't watched the rest of these videos yet but I think the best option would be to have the crane support tube in a sliding sleeve which is attached to the hitch. That way the load from the crane goes straight to ground and the sliding sleeve which is attached to the truck just supports the crane tube from falling over.
You need a screw jack on the bottom of the outrigger, once you put a load in the bed of your truck, the suspension will squat and you won't be able to pull that pin with all that weight on it... Or airbag the rear of your truck, which would also help you pull that trailer. win - win if you bag it.
haha.... thinking alike. I said the same thing. air bags. lol
5:04 I'm very fond of your idea with the adjustable foot, just relying on the slack in the system sounds like it'll come back and bite you
Use a screw Jack that is used for scaffolding, perfect solution for your foot adjustment
That's what came to my mind also, square foot mounted to a spindle like a vise, with a nice wingnut to adjust and lock it!
:-D
Would make a interesting episode with milling the wingnut and threading some round stock for the spindle...
;-)
I'm a crane operator and that crossbar is called an "outrigger".
It's nice your building this for your self. I took a old engine off Craigslist and did something similar. I didn't have a lathe so I made a pintle point (2 rounded over points) which allows for easy weight and turning. Using a little grease and this old timers method I can lift and swing about 1 ton. On my foot I went with larger pipe so I could make it a triangle stand for stability at the bottom. That was 6 years ago, lift riding mower, engines, a custom metal Lift pallet for concrete bags/stone/brick blocks. I have 1 for my trailer as well but mounted it on the side between the tandem axles. Having a lift is pretty nice as a old man.
Would have for sure used a trailer jeck for the adjustable foot. Simple and cheap.
Yes .... Adjustable "foot" is a damn fine idea. Every parking situation will have a different "foot" height. And the suspension height will vary with different weights on the truck. I often need to work step by step too .... I'll be interested to see how you "finish" this project Adam :)
Great stuff, as always. I like projects like this not because they're economical, but because they give the new guy a chance to practice skills and still end up with something that's useful. Too often, I see a lot of folks recommending you just make chips or lay down bead after bead, but that gets tiresome after awhile because you're burning up all that time and material .... but never actually end up with a finished project that you can use. There's value in that, sure, but there's also many lessons to be learned by doing something like this crane and I think we should all push to do things like this in the future.
I nominate your Monarch for “the smoothest lathe on TH-cam “ award!
Not gonna lie, I still enjoy monarch content the most
Awesomely done Adam. Love all this setup instructions
Wow😲.that level just vanished into thin air.thats a great magic trick
The trailer jack really is your best option, its infinately adjustable and cant bind on you with weight on the truck
I really like this guy
You've experienced injuries doing lathe work over the course of you career. I'd like to see a video a dos and do-nots on operating a serious lathe like you have. Keep up the great content and God Bless
A wonderful project and a joy (as always) to see a Master at work :)
I built a truck crane very similar to this a few years ago. I used a trailer jack off the side of the beam next to the pivot point. It works well and allows leveling very quickly. Nice looking build with your usual quality. Thank you.
Trailer jack with out the wheel is what I wound up using. The weight of the load always kept the post system bound up.
Loving this project series. Well done!
Cheap and easy, get a scaffolding jack bolt and nut, could even lift the truck some with that!
Hey Adam. 2 thoughts watching this video: 1) I love watching you work fast. Once you intro something then quickly change the gears or bring the tool in to work is always fascinating to see how quickly this type of work can we done and 2) I love the sound of that Monarch. Just listening to it idling while you adjust th workpiece, etc. is awesome for some reason. Great video series.
Love the long angles of the video showing the lay of the shop! It's a beautiful thing to see that powerful machine tucked in there so well.
Music to my ears. Thanks Adam for adding peacefulness to my day. Relaxing viewing
If this professional machine shop owner and content creator doesn’t work out for you(it will) …you would be the best prison system vo-tech instructor ever(you would) …Precision & patients personified!!!
I’ve referred to him as “the neurosurgeon of metal and machining”. His talent, knowledge and abilities
are just amazing!
Thanks for your vids. So educational. Wish I had the space and the $$$ for a nice lathe. maybe someday....
I love your "long format" videos. Thanks. From a french viewer.
One might be able to use a bottle jack for the foot. Might give some fine adjustability and wouldn't get stuck. Just an idea. Great project.
An Acrow prop was the first thing that came to my mind when you mentioned adjustment of the foot. It combines the fast adjustment of the pin and holes with the jacking capabilities of a screw.
Unfortunately, they say in the pdf, it should not be used as a jack. It's for support only.
Static load bearing only, not dynamic. The movement of the crane puts the wrong kind of load on it.
It may not matter because of the load he is expecting, but I expect Abom to be conservative in this.
@@firesurfer I would wager that is a safety caveat, and in its intended application I would agree. Due to the length and slenderness of an an acrow prop they are only intended to provide support in direct compression, any side load applied, such as swinging on the screw to “jack” it up may cause it to slip out from under the object it is lifting. I used the term “jacking” loosely, as in Adams application it would only be acting as an adjustable foot to provide downward support, just as it is intended. However as I design principle, where the prop is shorter and has sideways constraint (as in this application) I think it would be fine for light lifting / jacking. In truth I bet there is many a builder out there who has used an acrow prop to jack things back into place 😉
Hey Adam. You probably know this trick for adjustable-length struts. Put a few holes spaced equally on the fixed part and a few on the strut that are a little closer together. Say 5 holes fixed at 3 inches apart and 5 sliding that are 2.5 inches. Then you'll find that every 1/2 inch over a pretty big range there will be a pair of holes lined up. This works smoothest with rectangular tubes because they register, but it ought to be okay with round ones, too.
Similar concept to a vernier scale, interesting.
Adam I built one much the same in 2008. Not as fancy as yours but it works. I used a clutch release bearing at the bottom of the round shaft to allow for the crane to turn easier. It works. If you have not finished it yet, think about doing that.
I started out as an engineer...on the computer side but I still have the mentality - so I can't help saying something when I feel like there might be a problem! Sorry! You're definitely still the expert by a looooooong way here. :)
When you lift heavy stuff into the bed of the truck, the suspension on the truck is going to want to compress. So with the foot, I don't think it's a matter of just having a little wiggle room to get the pin out, the truck bed is going to drop a significant amount, maybe even an inch or more, relative to the ground which the foot is sitting on. When that happens you'll have a lot of weight on the pin keeping you from pulling it out.
I definitely could be missing something. Either way, I think you already have a solution figured out if it's a problem. Loving the videos of this project. Keep it up!!
If you're just going to use a pin to set the height of the strut You'll need to leave it very loose. That truck will squat quite a bit with any decent load and you'll need the slop to get the pin out of the hole. A 2" or 3" cam-over lever with an adjustable length foot would be the way to go. Great work explaining the reasons behind each of your process steps.
You need a scaffold adjustable foot for the support
shotgun style thoughts, tips, technique . good job abomb
I think a screw foot would definitely be the way to go. Not just to be able to break it down after the load is on board, but to be able to plumb the crane before lifting. If it’s not plumb, you may get some unwanted swing, as soon as the load is lifted. Maybe a little center bubble vial welded onto the side.
It really is a beautiful day there good weather to work in 🙂
You could use an adjustable leg screw for a scaffold.
That's the ticket 😃
Or something like a trailer Jack
That was my thought too; the load should be entirely axial (negligible in bending or shear as the hitch and suspension are dealing with that) so it doesn’t need to be huge… there might be significant fore and aft bending loads thinking about it as a mass off the back will lift the rear suspension; but I’d be more focused on the torsion load on the cross member in that instance…
You could use one those trailer tongue jacks to adjust the bottom of the boom pipe to the ground. They're cheap and even come with a swivel plate to swing the jack out of the way.
Looking very good.
Absolutely beautiful lathe and shop! Most excellent quality of your work…I’m definitely learning a ton of different things from ya! 👍😁
This is a really cool project and a nice alternative to SNS. Really happy when I see a new part.
An adjustable screw foot would be an excellent addition to the support leg. Hitting the exact pin alignment even with closely spaced holes may be problematic. The ability to take the tension off once loaded is another positive benefit. Love watching you build devices to make your job easier, the fabrication and creative process is fun. I know you move a lot of heavy stuff and whatever you can do to minimize the stress on the body is a big deal.
Adam that's quite a nice trick about leaving the top finger on the steady rest loose because of heat expansion of the part rotating within the other two fingers. I honestly never would have thought of that!
I would chop the pipe to the length of the bushing and then attach a quick release trailer jockey wheel to the square tube, this will allow you to set the height to what ever surface your on.
from the massive construction i have seen in the last episodes that squaretube-adaption seems a bit flimsy.That crane will whiggle around a lot with load and the squaretube will twist.I think the foot wont help a lot cause it might slip sideways
If you were to put a receiver[s] somewhere on the flatbed trailer you could use the crane to load stuff into the trailer as well.
We used a trailer jack. It allowed us to adjust the foot when on uneven surface, and easily "unload' the bar. We also have a 2nd trailer jack right under the hitch point to support the truck when lifting so you don't have to worry about the suspension compressing while lifting items - weight balance and transfer.
You can skin a cat 1000s of ways. We love aboms way
Certainly an interesting build series. I appreciate the in-depth detail you put into every video I’ve watched from you.
Always enjoy your vids. I would rethink the foot. Also that cross bar will have significant twist with moderate weight without a brace to the tire or frame.
I tend to over engineer anyway
don't mean to be picky Adam because you are a smart dude for sure and maybe you thought of this, but you may have to put some kind of screw jack system on that because as you load the truck it will settle and you may not be able to remove your lift system because it will be too tight to the ground. Like I said you no doubt realize this I was just thinking out loud,lol, love your videos man and you've taught me a ton so far I don't miss a video.
Really enjoying this build, thanks
It's cool to see how much the boring bar actually deflects while cutting at 22:00
you saw that too??
I agree higher is better. You'll add straps to pick things. You need the height for the top side of the lift. I also agree with the fella on needing adjustment in the foot. You'll be surprised how much travel you will get in the suspension. Your trucks jack could bail you out if it gets bound up though.
Looks like now would be the time to insert your cross-piece from the right side of the bed and see if you need to make any changes to make your crane ambidextrous. There could be times when lifting from the right works better.
Also, tripod legs often have a point that can be exposed by turning the rubber foot back. The point works well on rough ground.
@abom79 .... Yes Adam, suspension squat / Tilt will be an issue with a heavy load. the only two ways around it will be to raise the truck ( leveling jacks / air bags ) or like you showed with a screw foot on the out rigger. this crane is looking good.
This build series is why I absolutely love your channel!! I love going on these adventures with you and learn new stuff along the way.
I really can’t wait till your next shaper video - it’s been sitting idle for too long!
Hi, you need a screw on the bottom, a screw inside the bottom pipe is the standard design. First the pin to get approx height and then the screw to take up the last bit of height. Cheers from Oz
If you haven’t planned for it already you will want to add extendable legs to keep the thing from twisting the draw bar as you swivel the crane.
I agree, when the jib is out perpendicular to the cross bar the moment arm will put a lot of twist on the crossbar. Depending on the load it may cause the foot to kick out from under the crane. An additional outrigger perpendicular to the crossbar would eliminate this. I have one of those engine hoists and it always tries to pick up the back wheels and pitch forwards on full extension.
If the blue hoist piece just dropped into the hitch tube and touched the ground the hitch tube could go up and down and youd still be able to lift out the blue up right piece
The hitch tube is just needed to support the blue tube in a up right position
Most crane truck use out riggers to stabilize the vehicle when lifting grant it you most likely wont be flipping you vehicle but you need to be able to remove the crane with the load in the vehicle
I think using the adjustable screw method with a nice thick ACME thread is the way to go. Imagine loading 1000# in the back of that RAM, you might actually have to carry around an aluminum floor jack or similar just to "unload the foot". I'm just saying, I've found myself in this VERY SAME predicament, and no jack tall enough to unload the hitch.
Adam I can suggest you could use a thrust washer bearing so you can turn it once there’s a load on it just so you and pivot it easier.
i have a " Cheap " Chinesium truck crane i bought 15 years ago...it has only pipes...no bearings...nuttin ...it spins easily...yeah not as smooth as it could...it works fine...even if ungreased...you'd be suprised how simple can work sometimes.... the tubes aren't even close to fitting too..lol....i never had issues..
For the outrigger. Get yourself a scissor jack and weld the base to the leg. A boneyard would probably give you one. You would be surprised how much your truck will squat with just a couple hundred pounds.
a trailer tong screw jack on the vertical support pipe would be a delux version instead of the pinned extension like the cheap ones use.
Suggestion on adjustment. If the holes in the inner pipe are one inch apart, drill two holes for the locking pin in the outer pipe that are 1 1/2 inch apart. depending on which outer holes you put your pin in you have 1/2 inch adjustment. rather than just 1 inch adjustment
That's cool. I had to think a moment about what you said. Clever.
Adjustable, heavy gauge Acme threaded foot, similar to a builders Acrow style prop for the steady foot.
That "pin" is just beautiful
Great video, I always like to watch you guys.
Greetings from Germany
Yes an adjustable foot...I made my foot out of a scaffold foot
That piece is the crossmajigger. Like a thingamajigger but crossways.
They're called outriggers....
Awesome build as usual. Might want to think of a swing brake or make sure it has enough friction to not swing uncontrolled if the truck is off angle. Ive used similar lifts and it can get sketchy at times.
You could have the crane post free to move up and down inside the ID of a cylinder welded to the beam ,with the base of the post sitting in a removable footplate with a vertical locating post on it.
No need for jacks etc. As the suspension compresses the cylinder just moves down the post. Cut a vertical slot in the cylinder and screw a pin into the crane post to prevent it swinging around if that is required
The design only requires horizontal stability
Yep. This has been suggested on all of the videos for this build back to the first. It's the most simple and robust solution, and the only one that accommodates the inevitable movement in the truck suspension during loading and unloading.
When loading, the suspension will compress leading to a torsion load on the hitch receiver as the crane foot takes the load. When unloading the suspension will lift bringing the crane foot off the ground and rendering it useless.
In fact, the crane will become slightly more difficult and dangerous to use during unloading as the crane will continue to move once the load is on the ground.
But maybe Adam is right and the movement in the truck suspension will never exceed the range of motion accommodated by the natural slack/floppiness of the hitch receiver and slide bar.
A jockey wheel with a flat plate instead of a wheel may be the go for a support
Yes. Just in time , thanks Adam
As others have said, you are definitely going to need a leveler foot of some kind. My idea is to go buy a bottle jack from Harbour Freight and just weld it upside down to the bottom of the pipe.
If you want the ultimate in adjustability, machine both inner and outer pipes so they're a close fit and then thread both of them so the inner pipe with the foot plate can be screwed in or out to adjust the height...
This also allows you to deal with the truck settling down far enough to compress the crane foot, now you don't need to worry about being able to pull a jammed pin, all you need to do is reef on the foot with a long prybar to wind it in a little until there's no more weight on it, then the crane support can be removed from the hitch mount...
Have an idea for a screw Jack for the foot. Modify a ratchet chain binder. Has acme threads and a handle. Won't have struggle pulling pins out or about the weight.
IT'S a thing of beauty just watching that old lathe do it's thing and someone who knows the touch of that particular lathe to get anything that accurate... I'm a joiner that has acquired a very old lathe and my mechanical engineering friend is not happy the lathe is 8 thou out he says it's the backplate that the chuck is mounted on and the chuck is too big for the bronze headstock bearing/bushings!!!!
SO if we as joiners work to 3mm on 1st fix timbers that's good enough.. that's 118.11 thou and it's sometimes more like 1/2".hehehe not between 2-7 thou that's crazy good in my opinion on any machine!!! all the best from Motherwell Scotland Adam and family x
For more adjustment you can drill a hole at 90° a bit higher or lowe in between what you drilled in the other pole. Doubles the adjustment without losing much strength.
Dragging this out a little Abom79?
We're enjoying this build. We shared this video in our homemade tools forum this week :)
just take a block of wood with you and drive onto it if the adjustment is under stress and unwilling to move
Just 5 minutes in ... I'm an experienced fabricator, So far your ideas look spot on to me ... keep it simple and lighter, if the nylon bushing wears out every 2 or 3 years .... just make a new one .. same idea with the foot ... if you get stuck with a heavy load in the truck one in ten lifts ... just use a jack on the truck no big deal :)
With a heavy weight it's going to twist. You will need something like the front feet of a jawhorse.
5:07 I am so happy to see that you have the exact same brand of screw jack that I have from my great grandfather from China, except scaled up by a factor of 40.
I like the trailer tongue jack idea
Lovin' the videos. The bit sticking out to the side, could that be called an outrigger?
I have used the same jib crane for years now mounted on my trailer to load a 1,200 # reversible plate compactor. Best money I have spent for many years. Height, swing and extension is critical.
Dont worry about a bar to turn the crane by, you can just push on the load that the crane is lifting
12 volt winch on the end of the boom would save a lot of pumping on the lift jack too.
With remote obvs....lol
I have faith in you brother all your projects come out superb