Does Stefano Bemer Make the Most Beautiful Italian Shoes? 👞 | Kirby Allison

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 ส.ค. 2024
  • In this video, Kirby Allison goes through an overview of Italian shoemaking company Stefano Bemer, looking at how to make a beautiful Italian shoe. The company was generous enough to loan us someshoes from their 3 different collections, the Essenziale, the Classica, and the Tradizione.
    ‘The Essenziale is a small collection of Goodyear welted shoes Stefano Bemer offers in a fixed number of sizes and colors. The idea of the essenziale came from Simon Crompton. The concept is a collection of 10 styles every man should have in his closet, that’s why the name ‘Essenziale’ = ‘essential’ in English, comes from. They start at €850. They come with their wooden shoe box and individual shoe bags.
    ‘Next up is the Classica line which is Stefano Bemer’s famous RTW line. The thought behind this collection is to still offer clients who do not need bespoke a shoe with as much bespoke elements build into it as possible. All the uppers of the classica shoes are hand clicked. The uppers are hand lasted. The welt is sewn to the insole by hand. (Explain hand welting with the shoe sections). The outer sole is later stitched to the welt by machine. Available RTW and MTO.
    ‘The third shoe we have is a RTW shoe made in the tradizione line. The tradizione is made to the exact same standard as the bespoke, it has hand-sewn shanks creating either a beveled or a fiddle-back waist (whatever client wants). It really is by all means a bespoke shoe only made on a standard last. The fiddle back is made by preparing the shank in the V shape. Then the side portions of the waist of the outsole are skived to half of the thickness. The outer sole is then attached to the bottom and the fiddle is hammered to shape. Tradizione price: 1650. Comes with their wooden box and lasted shoe trees.
    Get in touch with Stefano Bemer:
    www.stefanobem...
    / stefanobemer
    📸: @stefanobemer
    Shop Hanger Project: www.kirbyallis...
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ความคิดเห็น • 77

  • @mirkoraimondi3054
    @mirkoraimondi3054 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Stefano Bemer has been the number one in shoemaking.
    R.I.P.

  • @ShowMeInHD
    @ShowMeInHD 4 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Beautiful shoes, I scoured their website after this video and cant stop drooling. Now I know what I want for Xmas!

    • @kirbyallison
      @kirbyallison  4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Haha. Yeah... you should also check out their Instagram page!

  • @gregorythomas2674
    @gregorythomas2674 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Does Stefano Bemer make the worlds finest shoes? In one word: Si! Yes, they are easily the finest ready to wear and bespoke shoes available. In Bergdorf's in NYC they just stand out about all the others. Its obvious they are the beat. Belissima!

  • @martuni1539
    @martuni1539 4 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    The best part of a solo Kirby video is there's no expert for him to interrupt constantly

    • @YacDiesel
      @YacDiesel 4 ปีที่แล้ว

      Martin Eh, give the man some grace, troll

  • @yacovlk7924
    @yacovlk7924 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Thank you for another video. I could and do watch these over and over. Very relaxing.

    • @kirbyallison
      @kirbyallison  4 ปีที่แล้ว

      🙏

    • @yacovlk7924
      @yacovlk7924 4 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@kirbyallison I know I speak my mind sometimes but I still think your great. Really.

  • @MindbodyMedic
    @MindbodyMedic ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Amazing coincidence that the Russian reindeer leather story is in this clip, as I'd just found out about yesterday via the 'Bespoke Addict'. I'm sure Kirby is aware of him, if not check out his incredible restoration of Cleverlys and Maxwells from the 1930s. He put around 70 hours into removing black dye from leather and sanding out creases, a genuine shoe nut!

  • @septaken
    @septaken 2 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Thank you, very informative.

  • @sophieacapella
    @sophieacapella 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    What a beautiful video! Thank you so much for sharing this. If I had a pair of shoes like that I wouldn't want to wear them, I would want to keep them intact and look at them like a precious gem 😊😍.

    • @kirbyallison
      @kirbyallison  4 ปีที่แล้ว

      Haha. I totally understand. I call it “defensive walking.”

  • @monkeypawism
    @monkeypawism 4 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Fantastic shoes. Good to see products from Italy.

  • @nigel4442
    @nigel4442 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    These are the most beautiful shoes out there

  • @fnfsong40
    @fnfsong40 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Bemer died in 2012, the true father'family origin is from Switzerland, arrived in Tuscana when he was a child. Nevermind, his stile of work became from England shoes job, infact he used only leder from UK. Definitley, is Stefano Berner'shoes italian or english? Thank's for your attention.

  • @javoneldridge8046
    @javoneldridge8046 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I love the quality of these shoes! I need to get in touch with them. I don't like their Lsst. Toe is too narrow and enlongated.

  • @douglasspencer745
    @douglasspencer745 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Had a look on their website, beautiful shoes

  • @jimboparsons5495
    @jimboparsons5495 4 ปีที่แล้ว +8

    An extra €1000 just for the sole to be hand stitched seems a tad odd.

    • @SansAziza
      @SansAziza 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Welcome to Italy.

  • @YacDiesel
    @YacDiesel 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    The fiddleback waist is superb! Fortunate enough to reside in NYC where they have a workshop. Hoping to commission a bespoke pair of Reindeer shoes either this year or next year.

    • @YacDiesel
      @YacDiesel 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Update: I finally commissioned a pair of their MTM Russian Reindeer Semi-Brogues in December. They should be arriving early February! 🤩

  • @johnosei5748
    @johnosei5748 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Excellent presentation.!!!!

  • @csmcilwain
    @csmcilwain 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    Absolutely stunning shoes Kirby!!

  • @roychefets1671
    @roychefets1671 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    nice presentation!

  • @KMaybach1
    @KMaybach1 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Dear Kirby, could you do a comparison between Stefano Bemer and Saint Crispins in terms of leather quality, finishing etc., since both manufacturers, at least on paper seem to be quite similar and direct competitors. Thanks

    • @Sauskethorpido
      @Sauskethorpido 4 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      And g&g and John lobb paris all four. That would help with choosing my next pair :)

  • @chusamusic1409
    @chusamusic1409 4 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    I love a Fiddle back!!!

    • @santiagoezekiel8268
      @santiagoezekiel8268 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      I guess I'm kind of randomly asking but does anyone know a good place to stream newly released series online ?

    • @moisesasa3687
      @moisesasa3687 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @Santiago Ezekiel I watch on FlixZone. You can find it by googling =)

    • @jasiahtrace2373
      @jasiahtrace2373 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @Moises Asa Yea, I've been watching on flixzone for since march myself =)

    • @santiagoezekiel8268
      @santiagoezekiel8268 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @Moises Asa thanks, I went there and it seems like a nice service :) I appreciate it !

    • @moisesasa3687
      @moisesasa3687 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @Santiago Ezekiel Happy to help :)

  • @angelinoz5159
    @angelinoz5159 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    A person who can make shoe discussions entertaining enough that nineteen minutes seem to go by a breeze. Kirby you really are passionate about you area of interest and are effective at transferring this passion to your viewers. I have a suggestion. You should update your hairstyle. You have good hair but if you received something like a nano keratin treatment to your hair you would look even better. Just a suggestion. Also, can you provide some in depth analysis about Berluti shoes?

  • @petermaag9622
    @petermaag9622 4 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Great, always wanted to try them ... love the black classica S lasted semi brogue. Do you have any experience on sizing, Kirby? I wear a 7UK in G&G and Anthony Cleverley which are a perfect snug fit. But I have heard that SB may have a more generous instep and easier fit, leading me to believe I could be a 40.5 rather than 41.

    • @kirbyallison
      @kirbyallison  4 ปีที่แล้ว

      I don’t have any experience with sizing, but I’m sure they can help you over email.

  • @daveg9000
    @daveg9000 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Nice jacket KB!

    • @kirbyallison
      @kirbyallison  4 ปีที่แล้ว

      Thank you! This is from Joe Hemrajani at MyTailor.com!

  • @wqsnsr8
    @wqsnsr8 ปีที่แล้ว

    Beautiful shoes

  • @emperoroflaw
    @emperoroflaw 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    Mr Kirby when you will visit Gieves and Hawkes, Crockett and Jones, Holland and Sherry, Anderson and Sheppard? May be you can visit them in your Saville Row Tour?

  • @E3KGaming
    @E3KGaming 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Wait, did we get catfished from the Hanger project brand to the KA brand? :D

  • @dechalertsumitkul8066
    @dechalertsumitkul8066 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    Inspired by your review, I am seriously interested in his shoes. I am in process of discussion with Stefano for choosing the details.

    • @kirbyallison
      @kirbyallison  4 ปีที่แล้ว

      Great! Keep us posted on your progress!

  • @maco21
    @maco21 4 ปีที่แล้ว +9

    Stèfano not stefàno, great video as always anyway

    • @SansAziza
      @SansAziza 4 ปีที่แล้ว

      Just for that, he is now Steve.

    • @maco21
      @maco21 4 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@SansAziza legit

  • @thomasbailey4139
    @thomasbailey4139 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    These are interesting. But I have a hard time imagining myself going above Alden.

  • @lerianchan
    @lerianchan 4 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    At this point surely its bragging rights. These finer details won't impact usability and may actually be less functional than regular old Crockett and jones. Almost as if these shoes are made for people who don't do much daily walking 🤔

    • @lerianchan
      @lerianchan 4 ปีที่แล้ว

      @Travers Kilroy Cooper Alvirez Thats a rather sensitive reply- However I am open to being enlightened. What is the advantage of a hand welt over a good year welt, particularly in terms of performance?

    • @lerianchan
      @lerianchan 4 ปีที่แล้ว

      @Travers Kilroy Cooper Alvirez seems that you appreciate the artistry of the shoe rather than the function. Whichever shoe serves you the best. I think for the price of a SB resole I might be able to buy another pair from CJ 😉

    • @lerianchan
      @lerianchan 4 ปีที่แล้ว

      @Travers Kilroy Cooper Alvirez I'm glad we agree about choice. I do ask If you have four shoes from SB have you realistically saved any money?

    • @lerianchan
      @lerianchan 4 ปีที่แล้ว

      @Travers Kilroy Cooper Alvirez Applause for finally writing a sensible reply… Nonetheless you have assumed re-soling each year and quite a short lifespan for a pair of CJ shoes. “Hard on shoes” must have a different definition…. The soles of your shoes are leather and these will obviously will never out-compete a rubber sole in practicality or walking or durability regardless of the harshness of the extreme environment you put SB shoes through despite the wizardry of tanning hocus-pocus. From what you describe perhaps you need boots with steel toe caps.
      Learning to count is quite a basic skill - Ten pairs of CJs would last anyone, if bought in their 20s into their 50s (with good rotation) is still less than £10,000 for four pairs of SBs. Ten more pairs could be bought to last the rest of your life which still comes to less than £10,000. I dare say in 40 years, if you still have the same four pairs of SB, your toes poking through the uppers.
      At the price point of SB we appreciate the craftmanship but anyone is kidding about saving money when buying such things as these. From where I stand your glass is half full - at least you do have nice things.

    • @SansAziza
      @SansAziza 4 ปีที่แล้ว

      Jesus wore flip flops. The end.

  • @defrancebaptiste1004
    @defrancebaptiste1004 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    Waiting and hoping for the cedes milano cufflinks to be back!

    • @kirbyallison
      @kirbyallison  4 ปีที่แล้ว

      Which ones? We can special order them for you, if you’d like. Email customer service!

  • @Marqblink1
    @Marqblink1 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Hi Kirby, I’m sure this message may go unnoticed as you probably receive countless messages per day, but in the off chance you see this, I’ll give it a go. I’ve been watching you for a few years now and excited for my first Allen Edmond boots en route thanks to your extensive knowledge on quality craftsmanship shoes. That being said, I’ve noticed during a few videos a term you’ve used “atelier “. Please understand this is simply constructive feedback as speaking French as a second language is incredibly difficult. If I could recommend how to pronounce this term, one simple trick that could help is if you add an “el” sound in the word. Instead of saying “ateyay” (phonetically), try saying “atel eyay ”. A plus tard!

  • @sumitagg1
    @sumitagg1 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    Where can you get these shoes?

  • @thefringthing
    @thefringthing 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Betteridge's Law: "Any headline that ends in a question mark can be answered by the word 'no'."

  • @UnexpectedTraveler.
    @UnexpectedTraveler. 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    I would like to know, whats a good shoe brand for a person thats just getting into the shoe game?

    • @douglasspencer745
      @douglasspencer745 4 ปีที่แล้ว

      Shaun Green for a really good shoe ready to wear, would b Joseph Cheaney or Crockett and Jones, both made in or around Northampton

    • @roychefets1671
      @roychefets1671 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Thom McAnn!

  • @111ImNumber1
    @111ImNumber1 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thank you Kirby. Do you know what leather soles they use? JR? Or cheaper Italian leather soles?

    • @ilgambino0784
      @ilgambino0784 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      111ImNumber1 a high quality outsole not necessarily has to be JR..these shoes are not Allen Edmonds nor Aldens where after a year you are almost wearing through the threading...these shoes are another level, also their soles are very strong and durable.

    • @kirbyallison
      @kirbyallison  4 ปีที่แล้ว

      I couldn’t imagine them using anything cheap in this product. Not sure, but I’d imagine the outsoles are oak bark tanned.

  • @desertknights5003
    @desertknights5003 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    For nearly same quality I can get a meermin mallorka one for more than half price ..
    Good video though

    • @Pantovinator
      @Pantovinator 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      desert knight s lol

  • @locNguyen-jb1vt
    @locNguyen-jb1vt 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    time to saved

  • @alexko6672
    @alexko6672 6 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Good introduction. Please introduce proper black and white shoes

  • @Javi_C
    @Javi_C 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    :)

  • @pennmartin9165
    @pennmartin9165 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    Consumerism is a peculiarly of the American Ideology. I rest my case capitalist is suck.

  • @donniecatalano
    @donniecatalano 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Stéfano, please not Stefàno, thank you.

  • @Schnitzeljünger
    @Schnitzeljünger 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    First

    • @SansAziza
      @SansAziza 4 ปีที่แล้ว

      Irrelevant.

  • @stevendegliangeli7640
    @stevendegliangeli7640 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    Kirby, I told you about the correct pronunciation of the name STEFANO BERMER. StEfano. Please say it correctly.