DIY Audio Guy I always pre install the screws with no driver in place.. run them in and out with beeswax on the screw,... then install the speaker after the thread is fully formed in the wood. .. you never have a jumped driver bit eat through a surround this way. Never causing damage is nice.
MrGpsjim thanks for the encouragement. It is hard to stick with it to be honest. It’s a lot of effort to setup a camera every time I’m just wanting to build a speaker or work with a driver. And then all the editing time. But I am glad there are people out there getting some genuine entertainment or education from them.
Mark Holder it is. The curving scalloped away at the edge of the frame but it doesn’t overhang and is symmetrical. I didn’t need to take that much off but I thought the curving looked better this way.
You should really think of using a PCB for your crossover, or even a thin plywood board. If you need to change something to it will be harder now, also try not twisting the leads of the components in the crossover then soldering them as you will have a hard time if you want to change something. Keep up the good work.
Cimpoeru Mihai I have used them in the past with a cnc cut board. But the speaker was so tight I just did this. I won’t be changing anything as I already did months of testing and finished with this arrangement. They’re in there forever now.
They look great, hope they sound even better. i use shellac as a sealer since it dries really quick. Sometimes I use it as my main finish as well depending on the duribility I need. Another plus with shellac is any other type of finish can be applied on top of it so no worries about compatibility.
houseoffire72 I usually spray most of my finishes. Just wanted to hand apply this time. I’ve heard Shellac can be hand applied but I’ve never done it. Just sprayed.
Sir .... Which is better ..... RS 150 Or RS 125 I specifically built for .... Home theatre ... Which is for best mid range , descent Base response , powerful bassy audio to watch movies and music
A build I would love to see an curious if it would even function good if so is a layout that killed 3 birds with one speaker... The idea is 2 multi function very tall active towers say 7' +/- that housed a sub in the bottom or down firing in the base and full range front mains in the middle and the front high way up in the top... Yeah the budget would be on the higher side but it would replace 3 speakers per side., On another level but not sure if even functional or feasible is with some crafty angulation of drivers that could serve as a center...? Maby that's getting to be a bit much... but If it would work and work good I'd love to see it built and from what I've seen I know you could pull it off with as much success as the design allowed. It could be built in multiple levels from slim tower with say 6" drivers and a big and powerful daddy version with large say 12" drivers and big wattage amp. It would Just be a cool build imo.
Jim Mitchell really hard to hear if something can be improved that you can see quickly on a graph. I find it much more efficient to measure then listen for problems. I use a combination of measurements and my ears.
I mated scan-speak to Peerless HD, this was based on specs, not aesthetics. Bottom line, on any build. I consider it successful IF the speakers are transparent to the music and sounds like 1 coherent source. (The drivers all work together seamlessly)
Fear Wolf Brewery no it wasn’t enough of a change to matter. I have taken measurements of the final speakers to make sure everything went together properly and they measured pretty much exactly the same as the test version.
Did you take a combined measurement and get the acoustic offsets of the drivers for phase integration? Just curious!! Would love to know if you did!! Thanks again for your time and energy!!
@@ImpulseAudioSpeakers The main reason I'm asking is that I was modeling some with the FRD files you so graciously uploaded for the community to have access to, and I was wondering if I needed to adjust the delay on the woofer to achieve better phase tracking!! Thanks!!
@@ImpulseAudioSpeakers Sir .... Which is better ..... RS 150 Or RS 125 I specifically built for .... Home theatre ... Which is for best mid range , descent Base response , powerful bassy audio to watch movies and music
@@ImpulseAudioSpeakers which Build good for Home Theatre .... I have Sony 5.1 channel Amplifier 40watts per channel + 160 watt Sub channel .... .... ...... My First setup ...... 3 x Dayton RS100-4 2 x Dayton Dome tweeter 1 x Tang Band W5 Subwoofer Setup like Sound Bar ...... My second Setup ...... 2 x Dayton RS150-4 2 x Dayton Dome Tweeter 1x Tang Band W5 Subwoofer Setup like Bookshelf ..... My third Setup ..... 2 x MarkAudio CHR 70 2 x Dayton TCP115-4 / ND140-4 No Sub and Tweeter Design like Tower .................................. I Don't required deep bass...... Just wants boomy bass ..... And strong mid range performance. I don't use crossover because I have 5 channel ..
justkiddin1980 I just used sawdust from all the beltsanding. Better match than wood filler and easier than wood filler cause the sawdust was right there. Just grabbed my glue bottle and squirted a bit on and smeared it around. Easy.
hi .i have a question i hope in the end i will have some understanding 🙂 i have 3way speakers diy running on active crossover and i found putting a midrange on top in edition to the one on the front to give me a wide soundstage. the problem is it has to be out of phase to run with the other mid and tweeter(even my rta says the same). so i would like to know is it possible to connect both mids in parallel and one of them would stay out of phase? i.e connect the plus to the - and the - to the plus in parallel /and to the amp . insted of plus to plus and -to -? will my amp still see from the 2*8ohm speakers a 4 ohm load?and will one of them will be out of phase? or is it a bad idea? thx for all your help man👍
Yes you can do that. In parallel the load on the amp will be half the rated impedance, but there won’t be any issues and they will be out of phase. What you are doing is very tricky to get right. Sounds like a fun experiment. Glad you’re getting good results. Enjoy.
@@ImpulseAudioSpeakers if i had half your expertise i would go passive and would not need 3 cambridge amps. but as is i still get some good results using analog crossover from AUDIOCONTROL which gives me 18db per octave cut. very precise with chips instead of pots to set an exact crossover point. although it was intended for car audio it is high quality crossover.i only have to give it 12dc power. and with RTA i can monitor the phase . so i guess its fine within the limitations.😉
Jeff DaChef I have recording gear, and would love for people to get to hear them. But sound demos on TH-cam just don’t work. The room reflections get baked into the recording and there’s significant loss of fidelity in the compression and stuff.
@@ImpulseAudioSpeakers I know all the youtube compressed audio stuff but its nice to just hear them play rather than just explaining about them and seeing how efficient they could be as well. Those videos also tend to get a lot of hits and viewer subs.
Jeff DaChef that’s true they are attractive to people. I don’t quite understand why. I’m just different than other people I guess cause I’d never watch a video like that. Ok I’ll try to find some time to do a demo or something. Slow at the vids lately.
ziggy8757 I’m not a big fan of TH-cam demos, but I did do some demos in my last couple of videos where I changed crossover parts and played the sound so you could try and hear the difference. You could check those out. Let me know if you can hear the changes ;)
you have good treble and midrange but the crossover is not so well made! the crossover determines how good sound you get. just coil to a capacitor is too simple
skrotkalle skrotkalle please see my previous videos about the XO for these speakers. I really really know what I’m doing ok. Thanks for the advice though.
@@ImpulseAudioSpeakers Ok. The reason I wrote what I wrote is that so far I haven't seen crossover in a good speaker only with coil on bass to capacitor on treble! There is a reason for that! A speaker does not have a flat frequency response so you need to lower frequencies that are too strong compared to the others frequencies.
skrotkalle skrotkalle and if you watch the other videos you’ll hear me say this is the first time I’ve ever been able to get away with such a simple XO. I also talk about how budget orientated this speaker is and how I worked hard to cut out parts. You’ll also see comprehensive testing of both drivers including frequency response, distortion, TS parameters, and polar response. I really do know what I’m doing when it comes to speaker design.
@@ImpulseAudioSpeakers I understand. Nice speaker you made. Do you give me an email address so I want to show you the crossover on my latest speaker project if you are interested?
I had my doubts about your chamfering solution, but the end product looks stellar.
Beautiful job on the speakers.
Missed your videos Ryan. The finish on these came out great!
Excellent work impressed me
How did I miss part 1??? Nice little project. ... now going to dig up part one.
Solid solution with the sanded chamfer. Great looking pair!
Turned out really good
They look killer when finished
They look gorgeous!
Super rich natural color, love it!
You're getting better at editing these videos every time I watch btw, great work!
I use black hex head screws as well. Less chance of the drill slipping and poking a hole in the speaker.
DIY Audio Guy I always pre install the screws with no driver in place.. run them in and out with beeswax on the screw,... then install the speaker after the thread is fully formed in the wood. .. you never have a jumped driver bit eat through a surround this way. Never causing damage is nice.
A great piece of work, and so satisfying when it turned out so well!
Great job !!! They came out awesome.. ✌️
Awesome job. Been looking forward to this video
man they came out beautiful ! Good job !
Nice job !
looks really great, well done : )
They look great Ryan! It would be a shame to cover up those baffles with a grill.
Great job, your woodwork skills are fantastic. I really enjoy your videos, no idea why you don’t get loads more views - please stick with it.
MrGpsjim thanks for the encouragement. It is hard to stick with it to be honest. It’s a lot of effort to setup a camera every time I’m just wanting to build a speaker or work with a driver. And then all the editing time. But I am glad there are people out there getting some genuine entertainment or education from them.
@@ImpulseAudioSpeakers I would be gutted if you stopped - I guess the answer is that it just takes a long time (and some luck) to build a channel.
They look beautiful. P.s. I won't tell anybody if you go back later and put that inductor in. lol
noahtheviking hahahaha. Great idea 👍
They look absolutely beautiful. The woofer does look like it is slightly overhanging the front baffle to me though
Mark Holder it is. The curving scalloped away at the edge of the frame but it doesn’t overhang and is symmetrical. I didn’t need to take that much off but I thought the curving looked better this way.
You should really think of using a PCB for your crossover, or even a thin plywood board. If you need to change something to it will be harder now, also try not twisting the leads of the components in the crossover then soldering them as you will have a hard time if you want to change something. Keep up the good work.
Cimpoeru Mihai I have used them in the past with a cnc cut board. But the speaker was so tight I just did this. I won’t be changing anything as I already did months of testing and finished with this arrangement. They’re in there forever now.
They look great, hope they sound even better. i use shellac as a sealer since it dries really quick. Sometimes I use it as my main finish as well depending on the duribility I need. Another plus with shellac is any other type of finish can be applied on top of it so no worries about compatibility.
houseoffire72 I hadn’t considered shellac but it would have been a good choice on these I think.
@@ImpulseAudioSpeakers use a sprayer tho since it dries so fast
houseoffire72 I usually spray most of my finishes. Just wanted to hand apply this time. I’ve heard Shellac can be hand applied but I’ve never done it. Just sprayed.
@@ImpulseAudioSpeakers it can but needs thinning to work well... Just spray it. The finish comes out way better with less sanding.
Love your vids 👌
Sir ....
Which is better .....
RS 150
Or
RS 125
I specifically built for .... Home theatre ...
Which is for best mid range , descent Base response , powerful bassy audio to watch movies and music
Plans? The one thing I don't have is woodworking equipment, but sown the road I want to buy enough to build speakers with, and maybe sell them.
ken cohagen sorry I don’t give out my plans. I try and teach on this channel how to do the design properly so plans aren’t even necessary.
Ok, I had to try. Merry Christmas!
I love them!
A build I would love to see an curious if it would even function good if so is a layout that killed 3 birds with one speaker... The idea is 2 multi function very tall active towers say 7' +/- that housed a sub in the bottom or down firing in the base and full range front mains in the middle and the front high way up in the top... Yeah the budget would be on the higher side but it would replace 3 speakers per side., On another level but not sure if even functional or feasible is with some crafty angulation of drivers that could serve as a center...? Maby that's getting to be a bit much... but If it would work and work good I'd love to see it built and from what I've seen I know you could pull it off with as much success as the design allowed. It could be built in multiple levels from slim tower with say 6" drivers and a big and powerful daddy version with large say 12" drivers and big wattage amp. It would Just be a cool build imo.
Ryan, speakers look great. Congratulations! Are you planning to measure speakers?
Илья Основиков yes in my third video I’ll show the measurements and go over my final thoughts.
Jim Mitchell really hard to hear if something can be improved that you can see quickly on a graph. I find it much more efficient to measure then listen for problems. I use a combination of measurements and my ears.
I mated scan-speak to Peerless HD, this was based on specs, not aesthetics.
Bottom line, on any build. I consider it successful IF the speakers are transparent to the music and sounds like 1 coherent source. (The drivers all work together seamlessly)
Did you took new measurements with the champering?
Fear Wolf Brewery no it wasn’t enough of a change to matter. I have taken measurements of the final speakers to make sure everything went together properly and they measured pretty much exactly the same as the test version.
Did you take a combined measurement and get the acoustic offsets of the drivers for phase integration? Just curious!! Would love to know if you did!!
Thanks again for your time and energy!!
Bob Beam yes I believe covered it in part one but maybe not. Sometimes I just use the time of flight method, depends what I’m doing.
@@ImpulseAudioSpeakers The main reason I'm asking is that I was modeling some with the FRD files you so graciously uploaded for the community to have access to, and I was wondering if I needed to adjust the delay on the woofer to achieve better phase tracking!! Thanks!!
Bob Beam ahh, yes you will. Those are raw phase and you’ll want to convert to minimum phase and apply a reasonable offset.
Beautiful finish! One question: why binding posts when you had Speakon available?
Raymond Cooke I like speakon but felt I may move these speakers around and not all of my systems use speakon.
These turned out great love boild linseed oil . dont think i would have had. The guts to free hand a glued in place front baffle L.O.L.
The bunny is back 😄
chris vinicombe was there a bunny in one of the shots?!?! 😆
@@ImpulseAudioSpeakers at 26 seconds on the baffle.
Great work on the boxes they look lovely
@@ImpulseAudioSpeakers Sir ....
Which is better .....
RS 150
Or
RS 125
I specifically built for .... Home theatre ...
Which is for best mid range , descent Base response , powerful bassy audio to watch movies and music
@@nikhilsuryawanshi6301 I would use the 150 for sure.
@@ImpulseAudioSpeakers which Build good for Home Theatre ....
I have Sony 5.1 channel Amplifier
40watts per channel + 160 watt Sub channel ....
....
...... My First setup ......
3 x Dayton RS100-4
2 x Dayton Dome tweeter
1 x Tang Band W5 Subwoofer
Setup like Sound Bar
...... My second Setup ......
2 x Dayton RS150-4
2 x Dayton Dome Tweeter
1x Tang Band W5 Subwoofer
Setup like Bookshelf
..... My third Setup .....
2 x MarkAudio CHR 70
2 x Dayton TCP115-4 / ND140-4
No Sub and Tweeter
Design like Tower
..................................
I Don't required deep bass...... Just wants boomy bass ..... And strong mid range performance. I don't use crossover because I have 5 channel ..
Awesome !
Torx or kreg heads are an option instead of Allen screws
There nice..👍👍
Why didn't you use ordinary woodfiller??? Would have been way way easier...or just use some sawdust and woodglue from offcuts??
justkiddin1980 I just used sawdust from all the beltsanding. Better match than wood filler and easier than wood filler cause the sawdust was right there. Just grabbed my glue bottle and squirted a bit on and smeared it around. Easy.
hi .i have a question i hope in the end i will have some understanding 🙂 i have 3way speakers diy running on active crossover and i found putting a midrange on top in edition to the one on the front to give me a wide soundstage. the problem is it has to be out of phase to run with the other mid and tweeter(even my rta says the same). so i would like to know is it possible to connect both mids in parallel and one of them would stay out of phase? i.e connect the plus to the - and the - to the plus in parallel /and to the amp . insted of plus to plus and -to -? will my amp still see from the 2*8ohm speakers a 4 ohm load?and will one of them will be out of phase? or is it a bad idea? thx for all your help man👍
Yes you can do that. In parallel the load on the amp will be half the rated impedance, but there won’t be any issues and they will be out of phase.
What you are doing is very tricky to get right. Sounds like a fun experiment. Glad you’re getting good results. Enjoy.
@@ImpulseAudioSpeakers thank you very much.
@@ImpulseAudioSpeakers if i had half your expertise i would go passive and would not need 3 cambridge amps. but as is i still get some good results using analog crossover from AUDIOCONTROL which gives me 18db per octave cut. very precise with chips instead of pots to set an exact crossover point. although it was intended for car audio it is high quality crossover.i only have to give it 12dc power. and with RTA i can monitor the phase . so i guess its fine within the limitations.😉
Sweeeet !!!
Could I get the parts list for the crossover?
Sorry I don’t publish that. The goal is to show the process and hope people try to learn and build their own.
maybe some videos of it actually playing music if you have the recording gear to do so.
Jeff DaChef I have recording gear, and would love for people to get to hear them. But sound demos on TH-cam just don’t work. The room reflections get baked into the recording and there’s significant loss of fidelity in the compression and stuff.
@@ImpulseAudioSpeakers I know all the youtube compressed audio stuff but its nice to just hear them play rather than just explaining about them and seeing how efficient they could be as well. Those videos also tend to get a lot of hits and viewer subs.
Jeff DaChef that’s true they are attractive to people. I don’t quite understand why. I’m just different than other people I guess cause I’d never watch a video like that. Ok I’ll try to find some time to do a demo or something. Slow at the vids lately.
!!!!!!!!!! Remember chamfering driver hole!!!!!! Learn more at www.troelsgravesen.dk/Diy_Loudspeaker_Projects.htm
My Sy yes I’m aware of that. I probably should have done that but I’ll live with it.
they look amazing....do a demo for us to hear them with different music, just like zeos does...
ziggy8757 I’m not a big fan of TH-cam demos, but I did do some demos in my last couple of videos where I changed crossover parts and played the sound so you could try and hear the difference. You could check those out. Let me know if you can hear the changes ;)
you have good treble and midrange but the crossover is not so well made! the crossover determines how good sound you get. just coil to a capacitor is too simple
skrotkalle skrotkalle please see my previous videos about the XO for these speakers. I really really know what I’m doing ok. Thanks for the advice though.
@@ImpulseAudioSpeakers Ok. The reason I wrote what I wrote is that so far I haven't seen crossover in a good speaker only with coil on bass to capacitor on treble! There is a reason for that! A speaker does not have a flat frequency response so you need to lower frequencies that are too strong compared to the others frequencies.
skrotkalle skrotkalle and if you watch the other videos you’ll hear me say this is the first time I’ve ever been able to get away with such a simple XO. I also talk about how budget orientated this speaker is and how I worked hard to cut out parts. You’ll also see comprehensive testing of both drivers including frequency response, distortion, TS parameters, and polar response. I really do know what I’m doing when it comes to speaker design.
@@ImpulseAudioSpeakers I understand. Nice speaker you made.
Do you give me an email address so I want to show you the crossover on my latest speaker project if you are interested?
skrotkalle skrotkalle I don’t check this email often but I can be reached at ryan@impulseaudio.ca and would be happy to get an email. Thanks.