Mechanical design engineer here - I ran an FEA simulation of your M10 bolt constrained as close as possible to what you show on screen. If you used 304SS bolts, they will yield at about 300LBF each. If the 441LB load is truly evenly distributed across the 8 bolts, you have a safety factor of about 5.4 which is excellent.
@@WildlingSailing it depends on many factors like calculation uncertainty, industry, and what’s at stake. But generally a safety factor of 2X is good. In a case like yours I’d design for 3X and sleep well at night. For the 20mm flat bar that you drilled an 8mm dia hole in, I can run a simulation if you tell me the span length and load at the hole. Love your channel btw. Can’t wait to see her under sail!
@WildlingSailing @mattkelty5855 it is worth pointing out that a sailing boat will experience vertical acceleration (as well as acceleration in other directions) which will result in a greater force than than just the static load (approx 3kN/600lbf if we take your upper estimate of 300kg) which we are using to calculate the safety factor. I have no idea what magnitude of acceleration it is reasonable to expect/design for in a boat but the force exerted on those bolts will almost certainly be more than the static load and so your safety factor will be reduced.
I don't think the decks look ugly Mark!...I think they "match" the authentic/rustic look of Mahi!...You're making such great progress, so darn proud & love the way you don't edit things like you falling in-between the planks!!! You're just like Mahi - Authentic!!!! Keep going Sparks - You've got this👏👍💪👌 ⛵️Love Mum ⛵️🌟
Just a suggestion with the pulleys and such to lift the motors. The fiddle block with cams could go across the top on the outsides for each motor pod, that way you're pulling the rope across the top of each pod towards the middle of the boat, not down. Or, if you wanted to get fancy you could put the fiddle block on the side nearest the cockpit with the tail going to a pulley on the outside bracket across the motor pod then tie the tail of the rope back near the fiddle block in the middle. That way you're still pulling towards the middle but the cam is right by your hand in the middle and the extra rope could just fall down in the motor pod when retracted. It costs an extra pulley but makes the direction you have to pull towards the most natural, towards the middle for both motor pods. It'd be a heckuva lot easier to explain with pictures :) Love the progress, stay warm and dry!
Be sure you have safety straps/cables/chains in case any bolts or bars fail while at sea and also chain your engines so they are attached to the boat and can't somehow drop into the ocean depths if something inevitably goes wrong. Also chains with locks may prevent theft😁💦
Hi! Super fun project! (sorry English isn´t my first language but i do the best i can and trust google translate ) also and mechanical design engineer here - You should stop drilling thru the steel beems, you are compromising the strength of it by a lot, use clamp around them instead(where possible) or set an insert in them.
Great progress!! Keep it up. I'm thinking the bolts are good as they are. I would use the boat as is but check on them for wear. You can always upgrade later as needed.
A trick for putting spacers down a bit of tubing is to hot glue the spacer to a length of wire or a stick once you have the bolt through it a quick twist and it should pull off
I'm not too clued up about the m10 bolts, but I can tell you that those old blocks. They look like they are made from "tufnol" and if so are VERY strong and durable. I have some original tufnol blocks on my boat from the 1980's and still working great today!
Maybe feed the ends of your pulley ropes into a small windlass? That might make it easier to raise and lower them, and you'd be able to do both at the same time.
Not quite sure when it happened but your boat seems to have been quietly transformed from a wreck that has been refloated into a capable and appealing ocean going vessel. It's looking very good. Keep your spirits up and keep going to the end. Well Done!
.... and in the next episode of the kamakazi craftsman .... 😜 I'd say it's not the strength of the bolt itself, but the strength of the point of contact with the box section. a tubular sleeve welded into the box section would increase the overall strength of the system massively. (Remember vibration of the engine will distort the unsleeved holes over time)
3:05 Maybe an old winch from some salvaged rigging placed in the right spot would make that alot easier Skipper. 9:50 Dont forget the force the drives will place on them when pushing the boat through the water. 10:26 OUCH, Careful Skipper.
This is like watching a van life video only on water, just as sketchy and highly entertaining, Brilliant and loving the progression of such a amazing project. Totally Hooked
The strength of the bolts isn't a problem, but the square tube is. First drilling the holes reduces the strength of the square. Also, the bolts will squash the tube. You have to have some kind of reinforcement, either a larger, thicker washer or some kind of saddle that reinforces the tube. Don't worry about the 10mm bolts. Gary Casey, P.E.
Mechanical engineer here - The real battle with any design of a structural frame is fatigue and movement. Make sure your frame is rigid. You may want to make some backing plates where the frames contact the wood to spread out the loads and keep the wood from fatiguing.
Fully non qualified shed tinkered here. I like your comment about keeping the frames rigid. That's what I thought too. But I wouldn't mess around with the engine boxes too much until I'd tried them and was happy with the arrangement, then if rigidity was a concern I'd make a triangular plate to brace the corners, maybe 100mm with three six mm bolts in each. That'd be solid.
@@c3pno the engines are typically used in calm seas and flat water to enter/exit Port and such... Otherwise Mahi sails and the engines are high above the water... This is to specs and with the designer's input if you want to go back to the beginning and educate yourself... Perhaps read the books on the evolution of these cats.
The M10 bolts are in shear (double shear) not tension, so the area of the bolt is the controlling factor. The sludge in your outboard fuel typically occurs from ethanol added to fuel. When it is left it separates and becomes a sludge that will block small engine carburetor jets. If you are running the engine on a regular basis the ethanol additive is not a problem, if you are going to let it stand for longer periods use pure petroleum.
Trouble is all modern Euro petrol is a mix... ... and its been increased on two occasions. It also attacks certain plastic components. Carb cleaner helps but only till next time.
You have to do a search online for sources of ethanol free fuel made for small engines with carburetors. It costs more but it's well worth the extra price. A lawn service company will know where to buy it.
Most name brand E5 labelled petrol contains practically no ethanol. Its allowed to contain up to 5% but market forces say people are willing to pay extra for less of that #$^^!@ in their fuel.
If you are not going to use the engine for 6 weeks or more just disconnect the fuel line and let the engine run out of gas, or better yet put in a simple cut off valve and shut the fuel off then rune the engine til it dies.On my generator and lawn mowers I start the engines every 2 weeks, so they are ready to go when I need them.
Hi, for me your planks are not the thickness it's should be. I'm thinking when it's will be very damp your planks will bend and a tempest will be very rough with your planks and attachments... 😊😊😊😊
You can put the spacers on the end of a stick with masking tape to reach the holes in the middle of the bars. I used the method to get a nut 2 feet down a pole.
Just a mention... Exposed wood not waterproofed or primered or painted is subject to the marine elements and is temporary at best and will of course require the time and expense of replacement in the near future.😁🛥️
It’s on buddy Spurs verse Aston Villa, who will win? Just to say I am looking forward to your next broadcast. The deck, woohoo, it’s shaping up, watching this again. What is after that? The mast? It’s an exciting year ahead let’s gooooo!
Id put a tubber strip between the beams and the deck, stops the deck from rubbing into the fibreglass. Also use a stick with a v notch on the end with a bit of blue tack to position the spacer. Good luck
I made this comment last in last weeks episode. The bolts are not the issue it’s the SHS square hollow section. They need crush tubes welded into them so that the bolts go through them and the weight isn’t just carried by the SHS wall thickness. Crush tubes can also be welded midway down the tube too. They need TIG welding.
Agreed, it will rip through the tube before the bolt. Over time the two may wear; groove in the bolt and oval the tube hole. Personally - its fine, its not going anywhere for a long time and you will be able to spot any signs of wear.
If you're going to leave the outboards sitting for a long period of time you should disconnect the fuel and run the engine until it runs out of fuel, that way it won't sit in the bowl and gum up.
Mark the ole girl is really coming together quite nicely. I think your M10 bolts are just fine overall and do not need changed. Your build imo is certainly robust enough to secure the small outboards that you have planned. Looks great and your Dad did an incredible job on the outboard boxes, really look like they will be with you for years to come! 😊
Mark, always a genuine pleasure and highlight to watch your uploads. Thank you for sharing your authentic wonderful self, you are a treasure. Be careful about using oil on the decking ... you definitely don't want anything that will be slippery in rain or rough seas! Lee
10:23… I’d say, just check them and replace them with relative frequency. The issue is stainless seems as though it hardens through stress, and then can fail a bit unexpectedly. But just like anything boats… Keep an eye on them and replace them from time to time. I can’t speak on the actual loads for each bolt… But it sounds like you have quite a few of them to hold a relatively small load per each. BTW… Thanks for all the inspiration I’m in a current refit, that’s been going on for quite a while and I’m constantly running into big and little obstacles. People like you definitely help keep the inspiration going, seeing all of your ins and outs and how you handle them. Cheers and much appreciation .
Great work Mark! It's so much fun to see this Cat take shape and the more you can manage to over build her, the better. Keep building her to last, you can't go wrong.
Kaizen sugestion regarding fastening of planks of your work- "deck". It might be helpfull, to drill 2 or 4 holes into each plank (possitioned behind the part of plank wich sits on the beam - "inner side"?) and than use plastiq cable ties of reasonable price, to bind "around" the beam, and through the plank, to semi-permanently and quite cheaply secure the planks on place. Some of the ties can be used multiple times, because can be "released" by hand. Generaly, realy handy watterproof and quite cheap material to bind, sort and possition far much more than cables. Same as reasonable supply of ducktape, handfull of those is a "must" for handyman, who will for longer period of time face yet unknown technical difficulties, with severe consequences in case of chosing a wrong way to adress them... BTW, if you decide to leave the plank-deck as you have it now for the sailing (no protective colour, etc), you might contemplate to cover the deck by something watterproof from the waves downbelow, and something of a grip to prevent slipping on your deck.
I've been following since the first video on this project and it's so interesting seeing the contrast from what you're doing and then other youtubers who have gone through the process of having their ship built in the factory etc! I'm really enjoying the videos! Keep up the hard work, it'll all be worth it in the end! :D
Hi, when considering mechanical advantage for your raising of the engines/sleds you would gain a tremendous amount of efficiency with your pulley system if you were to pull up from your deck rather than down. I suggest this if it’s possible to reverse your top jamming pulley…good luck 😢
The brown block (pulley) is made of Tufnol, a laminated material used as the original alternative to wooden yacht blocks back in the day, but nowadays are mostly sold to owners of classic yachts since they are easier on the eye than other modern blocks. They are still made by Holland Yacht Equipment and are not cheap. They run on brass bushings and last forever, so are not to be despised provided the bushings and straps are still good.
Could I suggest that the next time your shopping for bolts/nuts ect, please consider buying a few acorn nuts to top off your threaded bar. They will wind down on top of your nylon nuts you've put on and cover the rough cut thread. It will save you at some point from slicing your flesh. Top channel dude. Cheers
Those darn bolts look strong enough. About the Simple Man doing the work... We all can say a lot and I see many nice things below, and that is what keeps your head in the work and the video processing. Keep it up, you are entertaining, educating and a very real young person. We need more like you in this world.
It looks good Mark. Now we are waiting for the motor installation, the stearing system and a test on the river. I guess that will be in the next months. I wish you luck.
Mark, as a comparison - Tiki 38 shrouds are held by 1 shackle with a pin of 8mm diameter. These shrouds are 3000kg breaking load. The chainplate for the shroud on Tiki 38 is held by 4 x M6 machine screws. So your M10 screws for engines are more than enough,,, :)
If your concerned and need to put your mind at rest, bang in some 10.9' s or 12.9' s the weakest point will then be the box section. You can always buy a metal strip to run parallel to the box and bolt it to the side. Like a big washer running the length. Perhaps think of the engine box back movement when the waves hit, maybe some car boot opening cylinders(marine equivalent)to dampen the impact and relive stress on all of the joints.
my suggestion is to not worry about changing out the bolts, just have a welder friend come by and run a small bead on each junction, it'll add to the overall strength, rigidity and peace of mind in one move.
Did you try tilting your motor out of the water a bit? My small 10hp 4 stroke has 3 tilt settings. That may bring the bow down a bit. Also, sometimes the outboards transom mount has 3 setting where you can hang your engine higher or lower in the water.
The primary function of a cutting fluid is to act as a coolant, bringing down the temperature of the metal piece being worked upon and the bit. The cutting fluid not only helps provide an "excellent finish" to the product getting the cutting oil treatment, but it also provides excellent "dimensional control" and adds to the life of drill bits. Out of habit, when I pick up a drill and bit a can of cutting oil is always included. Old school ways never die.
Insert sheath into centre position by inserting a stick from below, rest the sheath atop the stick, lower it like an elevator, into position and get the bolt back in.
You did the right thing butting your deck boards up together without gaps and high above the sea. Slatted decks on Wharrams maybe good in theory for dissipating breaking seas but in the meantime, even in a fairly moderate beam sea and definitely going to weather, those gaps will allow the sea to squirt up through the deck, drenching the crew and any equipment you are trying to keep a bit dry. One thing you will need with a high flush deck though at sea is a guard wire or at least a rope around the deck. You'll feel mighty vulnerable otherwise and inclined to go about on all fours. And as you mention, slatted decks are an absolute magnet for items to fall through!
I love watching this channel and have followed from the beginning, however, I'm no expert but, i wouldn't feel comfortable on this boat in serious weather. I hope all your hard work is adequate for the rough seas you may encounter.
Well Done Mark. The Deck just makes the boat so more friendly and safe. I would put a brace between the two beams, where the top blocks are attached. The downward load will transfer to try and compress the two beams. You can used the eye bolts to connect a truss between the two beams. I would use the section rectangle Box section and cut the end out like a square C. then drill the holes to suit. As for the Strength. Suck it and See. A safety chain to the motors will save them if something breaks and Bonus, slow down thieves. Kiaora.
M10 is perfect for that job. Also, the crush tubes you have on the inside of the box section is a good move. I think the setup and load bearing points are more than adequate. Also, see if someone nearby has an ultrasonic cleaner. Best way to clean a carburetor. Makes them like new.
I very much enjoy watching you chug along. I watch and get motivation to continue our own painfully slow boatwork at the moment. Have to admit a couple times my gut was in my throat thinking you were going for an unexpected swim. Happy to see the deck taking shape.
Those pulley blocks are made of Tufnol - good material ! I would not worry about the static loads on your engine mounts, but the dynamic loads once it is at sea. A heavy wave breaking thru or the boat surfing sideways to a big comber on a breach. That is where things will bend & break. That gunge in your outboard carb could be due to ethanol in your fuel. Seems to absorb water and react with Aluminium carb material to then block the carb. Causes big problems with chainsaws. Cat decks are usually slatted rather than close planked to allow wave force to burst thru the deck and dissipate rather than slam into and break. I would think about introducing gaps between those planks. Keep up the good work - you are getting there.
10:47 congratulations! You've now experienced a tradesmans enemy....the 'trap door' plank/walkboard. Usually ending up through the ceiling into the room below! ;)
Glad to see you back and hard at it. Much rather watch your progress on this boat than most of the other million dollar carbon fiber projects out there. Its coming along great. Careful about taking an unplanned swim though 😀
That OB scoop will detach itself given the right wave scenario, it’s only held by 2 bolts in what looks like a much weaker material and that is the issue. All the metal reinforcement is fine, even overkill if you ask me.
Love your channel, Keep up the work. I would suggest strategically, throwing some carriage bolts into your wooden platforms to keep the screws from popping out, especially at the ends and maybe the middle of each under-cross member.
The deck is looking so good buddy. I can’t wait to see it all done and protected. You have come a long way and look at how much more quality your building skills have become. I’m super proud of you.
Take care Mate......you don't want to break bones or dislocate a joint falling through something..... Also, any screws, religiously isolate the timber using epoxy. Unprotected penetrations allowing moisture in are the death of timber boats..... you're probably already aware of that. Keep on keeping on. 👍
Experienced sailor here, your construction of your engine mounts metal cross beams appear to be too close to the main wooden cross brace beam. So when the boat flexes it appears that the steel would start gouging into the wood.
It is looking good. Regarding your engine sleds, make sure you properly lock all these nuts and bolts. You don't want the engine vibrations to loosem them.
You can put tube spacers inside the box section by making an insert tool. The insert tool can be a piece of wood or even pvc pipe that can fit inside the box section. It would have a notch cut into its end to hold the spacer. It would also have a line attached to it that fastened to it on one side of the notch and extended across it and all the way back to the other end of this tool. With this, the tube spacer can be shoved inside the box section until it lines up with the two holes in the box section. Once the bolt is installed. The end of the line can be released, and the tool can be withdrawn.
Those decks will come up lovely chief, you've made a good job of them. You may be getting moisture in your boat tank, it binds with the ethanol and drops out the fuel which may be why you're getting the gummy build up in the carb, a fuel stabiliser could help you. But I'm no expert, it's just a theory.
It works. I recently had idling trouble with my 2 stroke Nissan outboard and come to find the fuel pump diaphragms warped and also the float valve cover... Bad gas.
Hi Mark. You are going great! You are getting things done and using good sense to design things. AND you also providing fantastic videos (multiple cameras and drones) while doing the work! Thankyou. But you are worried about structural details like the bolt. Worry is a good thing to help you get things right but when it is part of a structure like the engine support system, you need the whole structure to be checked as that bolt may not be the weakest point, so my recommendation is to seek out a qualified friend! I YOU, reading this in the Netherlands, are a qualified mechanical engineer and have a little time to do a proper analysis and at the same time gain a friend, then get in touch with Mark to make sure his whole system is well engineered! Mark. you could put the word out through your boating contacts in the Netherlands to find this new friend as well. I note most large boat projects have such friends who help out with good effect! I have followed since you left the UK to travel down the French canals and have enjoyed all your adventures. Keep it up.
An M10 bolt can hold 2,009.6 KG of pull On the end of the bolt it says 8.8 to make the calculation must be multiplied by 8x8 = 64 kilos per square millimeter. If it is an M10, you multiply 10 by PI, which is 3.14. 10 x 3.14 = 31.4 times the 64 = 2.009.6 KG KG of pull 😉
Maybe think about a couple of basically just sticks or rods that you can slide a bolt thru when your engines are all the way up and that would take all the stress off your undersized lifting tackle.
The places where you were unable to put sleeves on bolts in tubing you could use fender washers if you think it will collapse under stress .looking forward to see the next video, thanks brother
On the skutsje I sailed on we used clinkers to link the wooden deck planks. (So we used iron rivets on the wooden planks). Screws like you’re using will rot out eventually.
I hope all the project people noticed the technique that Mark used to rivet the angle on the motor mounts. He drilled all the holes in the aluminum, then drilled and fastened one hole at a time in the stainless. This prevents the error of holes being slightly off when you fasten it.
Sure, but it also invites accelerated galvanic corrosion between the dissimilar metals. Those rivets are going to rust away and pop off/fail in no time. He needs to swap the Aluminum for stainless.
@@jonnymeyer8572Exactly my thinking. The aluminum will disappear fast (depending on alu grade) in contact with stainless and salty sea water. So that design should be changed to stainless, especially for the deck support so he doesn't fall through!
The bolts are fine , what will get you is vibration and movement may back off the nuts . . The trouble for me with any home built boat is that while the design may be off shore it really comes down to the quality of the build . If they fail it will to be ripped off by a huge wave but most likely the issue will be they come loose during a rough passage forcing you to jury rig at sea .
Mechanical design engineer here - I ran an FEA simulation of your M10 bolt constrained as close as possible to what you show on screen. If you used 304SS bolts, they will yield at about 300LBF each. If the 441LB load is truly evenly distributed across the 8 bolts, you have a safety factor of about 5.4 which is excellent.
legendary! out of interest, what is a bad safety factor, and what is the best? :)
@@WildlingSailing 1.5 or more.
@@WildlingSailing it depends on many factors like calculation uncertainty, industry, and what’s at stake. But generally a safety factor of 2X is good. In a case like yours I’d design for 3X and sleep well at night.
For the 20mm flat bar that you drilled an 8mm dia hole in, I can run a simulation if you tell me the span length and load at the hole.
Love your channel btw. Can’t wait to see her under sail!
Good stuff !
@WildlingSailing @mattkelty5855 it is worth pointing out that a sailing boat will experience vertical acceleration (as well as acceleration in other directions) which will result in a greater force than than just the static load (approx 3kN/600lbf if we take your upper estimate of 300kg) which we are using to calculate the safety factor. I have no idea what magnitude of acceleration it is reasonable to expect/design for in a boat but the force exerted on those bolts will almost certainly be more than the static load and so your safety factor will be reduced.
Thanks!
Bedankt
Thanks
Carb rebuild deserves an instant thumbs up!
lol, McD's is never what anyone needs!!! Health is wealth sir, guard it with your life! one love!! :)
I don't think the decks look ugly Mark!...I think they "match" the authentic/rustic look of Mahi!...You're making such great progress, so darn proud & love the way you don't edit things like you falling in-between the planks!!! You're just like Mahi - Authentic!!!! Keep going Sparks - You've got this👏👍💪👌 ⛵️Love Mum ⛵️🌟
Just a suggestion with the pulleys and such to lift the motors. The fiddle block with cams could go across the top on the outsides for each motor pod, that way you're pulling the rope across the top of each pod towards the middle of the boat, not down. Or, if you wanted to get fancy you could put the fiddle block on the side nearest the cockpit with the tail going to a pulley on the outside bracket across the motor pod then tie the tail of the rope back near the fiddle block in the middle. That way you're still pulling towards the middle but the cam is right by your hand in the middle and the extra rope could just fall down in the motor pod when retracted. It costs an extra pulley but makes the direction you have to pull towards the most natural, towards the middle for both motor pods.
It'd be a heckuva lot easier to explain with pictures :) Love the progress, stay warm and dry!
Be sure you have safety straps/cables/chains in case any bolts or bars fail while at sea and also chain your engines so they are attached to the boat and can't somehow drop into the ocean depths if something inevitably goes wrong. Also chains with locks may prevent theft😁💦
Really pleased that you have put spacer sleeves inside the box sections.
Hi! Super fun project! (sorry English isn´t my first language but i do the best i can and trust google translate ) also and mechanical design engineer here - You should stop drilling thru the steel beems, you are compromising the strength of it by a lot, use clamp around them instead(where possible) or set an insert in them.
Best sailing show on TH-cam, I absolutely love the down to earthiness (is that even a word?) of it, warts and all.
Great progress!! Keep it up. I'm thinking the bolts are good as they are. I would use the boat as is but check on them for wear. You can always upgrade later as needed.
A trick for putting spacers down a bit of tubing is to hot glue the spacer to a length of wire or a stick once you have the bolt through it a quick twist and it should pull off
The brown blocks will be made of Tufnol (SRBF) and are probably better quality than most new blocks in the chandlery.
There are aftermarket hydrofoils made for outboards that can help it plane.
I'm not too clued up about the m10 bolts, but I can tell you that those old blocks. They look like they are made from "tufnol" and if so are VERY strong and durable. I have some original tufnol blocks on my boat from the 1980's and still working great today!
Maybe feed the ends of your pulley ropes into a small windlass? That might make it easier to raise and lower them, and you'd be able to do both at the same time.
Not quite sure when it happened but your boat seems to have been quietly transformed from a wreck that has been refloated into a capable and appealing ocean going vessel.
It's looking very good.
Keep your spirits up and keep going to the end.
Well Done!
.... and in the next episode of the kamakazi craftsman .... 😜
I'd say it's not the strength of the bolt itself, but the strength of the point of contact with the box section. a tubular sleeve welded into the box section would increase the overall strength of the system massively. (Remember vibration of the engine will distort the unsleeved holes over time)
3:05 Maybe an old winch from some salvaged rigging placed in the right spot would make that alot easier Skipper. 9:50 Dont forget the force the drives will place on them when pushing the boat through the water. 10:26 OUCH, Careful Skipper.
Lightly tape the spacer to a small stick and lower into the stainless tube and put the bolt thu
This is like watching a van life video only on water, just as sketchy and highly entertaining, Brilliant and loving the progression of such a amazing project. Totally Hooked
The strength of the bolts isn't a problem, but the square tube is. First drilling the holes reduces the strength of the square. Also, the bolts will squash the tube. You have to have some kind of reinforcement, either a larger, thicker washer or some kind of saddle that reinforces the tube. Don't worry about the 10mm bolts. Gary Casey, P.E.
Caps get colored caps on the square tubing think that might help with the square part. Love from the states
I think the bolts work fine and if you ever get problems with them you could always change them to a bigger size
Mechanical engineer here - The real battle with any design of a structural frame is fatigue and movement. Make sure your frame is rigid. You may want to make some backing plates where the frames contact the wood to spread out the loads and keep the wood from fatiguing.
Fully non qualified shed tinkered here. I like your comment about keeping the frames rigid. That's what I thought too. But I wouldn't mess around with the engine boxes too much until I'd tried them and was happy with the arrangement, then if rigidity was a concern I'd make a triangular plate to brace the corners, maybe 100mm with three six mm bolts in each. That'd be solid.
Isn't the real battle going to be the waves striking and lifting in higher seas?
@@chrisoakey9841 and snapping off with the engines which could turn into anchors
@@c3pno the engines are typically used in calm seas and flat water to enter/exit Port and such... Otherwise Mahi sails and the engines are high above the water... This is to specs and with the designer's input if you want to go back to the beginning and educate yourself... Perhaps read the books on the evolution of these cats.
I'm wondering if those beam lashings you did have enough tension.
The M10 bolts are in shear (double shear) not tension, so the area of the bolt is the controlling factor. The sludge in your outboard fuel typically occurs from ethanol added to fuel. When it is left it separates and becomes a sludge that will block small engine carburetor jets. If you are running the engine on a regular basis the ethanol additive is not a problem, if you are going to let it stand for longer periods use pure petroleum.
Trouble is all modern Euro petrol is a mix... ... and its been increased on two occasions. It also attacks certain plastic components.
Carb cleaner helps but only till next time.
You have to do a search online for sources of ethanol free fuel made for small engines with carburetors. It costs more but it's well worth the extra price. A lawn service company will know where to buy it.
Most name brand E5 labelled petrol contains practically no ethanol. Its allowed to contain up to 5% but market forces say people are willing to pay extra for less of that #$^^!@ in their fuel.
If you are not going to use the engine for 6 weeks or more just disconnect the fuel line and let the engine run out of gas, or better yet put in a simple cut off valve and shut the fuel off then rune the engine til it dies.On my generator and lawn mowers I start the engines every 2 weeks, so they are ready to go when I need them.
Hi, for me your planks are not the thickness it's should be. I'm thinking when it's will be very damp your planks will bend and a tempest will be very rough with your planks and attachments... 😊😊😊😊
You can put the spacers on the end of a stick with masking tape to reach the holes in the middle of the bars. I used the method to get a nut 2 feet down a pole.
The bolts are definitely not the problem. Rather, you have to calculate how much your profiles can withstand in the areas weakened by the holes.
I agree to what someone said below: You will need something (pulley or rod or whatever) to fix the engines in the "down" position, too.
Just a mention... Exposed wood not waterproofed or primered or painted is subject to the marine elements and is temporary at best and will of course require the time and expense of replacement in the near future.😁🛥️
It’s on buddy Spurs verse Aston Villa, who will win? Just to say I am looking forward to your next broadcast. The deck, woohoo, it’s shaping up, watching this again. What is after that? The mast? It’s an exciting year ahead let’s gooooo!
Danke!
Thankyouuuu! really appreciate it, mate
Id put a tubber strip between the beams and the deck, stops the deck from rubbing into the fibreglass. Also use a stick with a v notch on the end with a bit of blue tack to position the spacer. Good luck
I made this comment last in last weeks episode. The bolts are not the issue it’s the SHS square hollow section. They need crush tubes welded into them so that the bolts go through them and the weight isn’t just carried by the SHS wall thickness. Crush tubes can also be welded midway down the tube too. They need TIG welding.
Agreed, it will rip through the tube before the bolt. Over time the two may wear; groove in the bolt and oval the tube hole. Personally - its fine, its not going anywhere for a long time and you will be able to spot any signs of wear.
Glue in a plug. Sod tig welding you bugger corrosion resistance and fatigue life. Someone should tell Elieon.
Glue in plugs. Sod tig welding it destroys corrosion resistance and fatigue life.
@@Maungateitei that's if you dont know what you're doing. there's processes for that.
If you're going to leave the outboards sitting for a long period of time you should disconnect the fuel and run the engine until it runs out of fuel, that way it won't sit in the bowl and gum up.
Mark the ole girl is really coming together quite nicely. I think your M10 bolts are just fine overall and do not need changed. Your build imo is certainly robust enough to secure the small outboards that you have planned. Looks great and your Dad did an incredible job on the outboard boxes, really look like they will be with you for years to come! 😊
Mark, always a genuine pleasure and highlight to watch your uploads. Thank you for sharing your authentic wonderful self, you are a treasure. Be careful about using oil on the decking ... you definitely don't want anything that will be slippery in rain or rough seas! Lee
10:23… I’d say, just check them and replace them with relative frequency. The issue is stainless seems as though it hardens through stress, and then can fail a bit unexpectedly.
But just like anything boats… Keep an eye on them and replace them from time to time. I can’t speak on the actual loads for each bolt… But it sounds like you have quite a few of them to hold a relatively small load per each.
BTW… Thanks for all the inspiration I’m in a current refit, that’s been going on for quite a while and I’m constantly running into big and little obstacles. People like you definitely help keep the inspiration going, seeing all of your ins and outs and how you handle them. Cheers and much appreciation .
So hilarious, that shakedown cruise of the rebuilt carburetor.
Lol stand that baby up! Lol
Also, de-burr and radius every metal part as you go about fabrication, you'll be thankfull for that one day...
Great work Mark! It's so much fun to see this Cat take shape and the more you can manage to over build her, the better. Keep building her to last, you can't go wrong.
The engine mounts would hold a couple caterpillars lol outboard
Looks good can’t wait to see you out there sailing
Kaizen sugestion regarding fastening of planks of your work- "deck".
It might be helpfull, to drill 2 or 4 holes into each plank (possitioned behind the part of plank wich sits on the beam - "inner side"?) and than use plastiq cable ties of reasonable price, to bind "around" the beam, and through the plank, to semi-permanently and quite cheaply secure the planks on place. Some of the ties can be used multiple times, because can be "released" by hand.
Generaly, realy handy watterproof and quite cheap material to bind, sort and possition far much more than cables. Same as reasonable supply of ducktape, handfull of those is a "must" for handyman, who will for longer period of time face yet unknown technical difficulties, with severe consequences in case of chosing a wrong way to adress them...
BTW, if you decide to leave the plank-deck as you have it now for the sailing (no protective colour, etc), you might contemplate to cover the deck by something watterproof from the waves downbelow, and something of a grip to prevent slipping on your deck.
I've been following since the first video on this project and it's so interesting seeing the contrast from what you're doing and then other youtubers who have gone through the process of having their ship built in the factory etc! I'm really enjoying the videos! Keep up the hard work, it'll all be worth it in the end! :D
Hi, when considering mechanical advantage for your raising of the engines/sleds you would gain a tremendous amount of efficiency with your pulley system if you were to pull up from your deck rather than down. I suggest this if it’s possible to reverse your top jamming pulley…good luck 😢
The brown block (pulley) is made of Tufnol, a laminated material used as the original alternative to wooden yacht blocks back in the day, but nowadays are mostly sold to owners of classic yachts since they are easier on the eye than other modern blocks. They are still made by Holland Yacht Equipment and are not cheap. They run on brass bushings and last forever, so are not to be despised provided the bushings and straps are still good.
Could I suggest that the next time your shopping for bolts/nuts ect, please consider buying a few acorn nuts to top off your threaded bar.
They will wind down on top of your nylon nuts you've put on and cover the rough cut thread.
It will save you at some point from slicing your flesh.
Top channel dude.
Cheers
Those darn bolts look strong enough. About the Simple Man doing the work... We all can say a lot and I see many nice things below, and that is what keeps your head in the work and the video processing. Keep it up, you are entertaining, educating and a very real young person. We need more like you in this world.
"It's a bit of a work in progress." Your motto for life. Works for me!
It looks good Mark. Now we are waiting for the motor installation, the stearing system and a test on the river. I guess that will be in the next months. I wish you luck.
I’m sure it will be great to have more sturdy useable space on board! You’ve done a lot of work to get to this point!
If you have access to a welder the best option would be to drill out the holes large enough to weld in a sleeve at each hole.
Mark, as a comparison - Tiki 38 shrouds are held by 1 shackle with a pin of 8mm diameter. These shrouds are 3000kg breaking load. The chainplate for the shroud on Tiki 38 is held by 4 x M6 machine screws. So your M10 screws for engines are more than enough,,, :)
That cage is fine. Who cares about the different color planks. You accomplished a lot. Cheers.
On the holes through the aluminum. You uses washers which spreads the load. The rivets you used are just pop rivets not structural.
If your concerned and need to put your mind at rest, bang in some 10.9' s or 12.9' s the weakest point will then be the box section. You can always buy a metal strip to run parallel to the box and bolt it to the side. Like a big washer running the length.
Perhaps think of the engine box back movement when the waves hit, maybe some car boot opening cylinders(marine equivalent)to dampen the impact and relive stress on all of the joints.
Doing well 👍👍👍
Great work, Mark. 🎉😊
my suggestion is to not worry about changing out the bolts, just have a welder friend come by and run a small bead on each junction, it'll add to the overall strength, rigidity and peace of mind in one move.
Did you try tilting your motor out of the water a bit? My small 10hp 4 stroke has 3 tilt settings. That may bring the bow down a bit. Also, sometimes the outboards transom mount has 3 setting where you can hang your engine higher or lower in the water.
You can buy plastic plugs to go into the stainless profiles. Will make tge setup much vetter and will protect you from exposed edges.
All looking good, keep up the great work!! As always, enjoy your time.
Such a creative young lad
The primary function of a cutting fluid is to act as a coolant, bringing down the temperature of the metal piece being worked upon and the bit. The cutting fluid not only helps provide an "excellent finish" to the product getting the cutting oil treatment, but it also provides excellent "dimensional control" and adds to the life of drill bits. Out of habit, when I pick up a drill and bit a can of cutting oil is always included. Old school ways never die.
Insert sheath into centre position by inserting a stick from below, rest the sheath atop the stick, lower it like an elevator, into position and get the bolt back in.
On the carb cleaning, next time take out the jets and clean those thoroughly as well. There's one in the float bowl tube as well.
You did the right thing butting your deck boards up together without gaps and high above the sea. Slatted decks on Wharrams maybe good in theory for dissipating breaking seas but in the meantime, even in a fairly moderate beam sea and definitely going to weather, those gaps will allow the sea to squirt up through the deck, drenching the crew and any equipment you are trying to keep a bit dry. One thing you will need with a high flush deck though at sea is a guard wire or at least a rope around the deck. You'll feel mighty vulnerable otherwise and inclined to go about on all fours. And as you mention, slatted decks are an absolute magnet for items to fall through!
I love watching this channel and have followed from the beginning, however, I'm no expert but, i wouldn't feel comfortable on this boat in serious weather. I hope all your hard work is adequate for the rough seas you may encounter.
Well Done Mark. The Deck just makes the boat so more friendly and safe. I would put a brace between the two beams, where the top blocks are attached. The downward load will transfer to try and compress the two beams. You can used the eye bolts to connect a truss between the two beams. I would use the section rectangle Box section and cut the end out like a square C. then drill the holes to suit. As for the Strength. Suck it and See. A safety chain to the motors will save them if something breaks and Bonus, slow down thieves. Kiaora.
M10 is perfect for that job.
Also, the crush tubes you have on the inside of the box section is a good move.
I think the setup and load bearing points are more than adequate.
Also, see if someone nearby has an ultrasonic cleaner.
Best way to clean a carburetor. Makes them like new.
Well done Mark! You've come on in leaps and bounds in the last few months! Only just noticed: 104K subs! Super well done! 250k soon...
I very much enjoy watching you chug along. I watch and get motivation to continue our own painfully slow boatwork at the moment. Have to admit a couple times my gut was in my throat thinking you were going for an unexpected swim. Happy to see the deck taking shape.
Those pulley blocks are made of Tufnol - good material !
I would not worry about the static loads on your engine mounts, but the dynamic loads once it is at sea. A heavy wave breaking thru or the boat surfing sideways to a big comber on a breach. That is where things will bend & break.
That gunge in your outboard carb could be due to ethanol in your fuel. Seems to absorb water and react with Aluminium carb material to then block the carb. Causes big problems with chainsaws.
Cat decks are usually slatted rather than close planked to allow wave force to burst thru the deck and dissipate rather than slam into and break. I would think about introducing gaps between those planks.
Keep up the good work - you are getting there.
10:47 congratulations! You've now experienced a tradesmans enemy....the 'trap door' plank/walkboard. Usually ending up through the ceiling into the room below! ;)
Glad to see you back and hard at it. Much rather watch your progress on this boat than most of the other million dollar carbon fiber projects out there. Its coming along great. Careful about taking an unplanned swim though 😀
That OB scoop will detach itself given the right wave scenario, it’s only held by 2 bolts in what looks like a much weaker material and that is the issue. All the metal reinforcement is fine, even overkill if you ask me.
Love your channel, Keep up the work. I would suggest strategically, throwing some carriage bolts into your wooden platforms to keep the screws from popping out, especially at the ends and maybe the middle of each under-cross member.
The deck is looking so good buddy. I can’t wait to see it all done and protected. You have come a long way and look at how much more quality your building skills have become. I’m super proud of you.
Mark, amazing effort, the boat it’s coming along nicely 👍
Take care Mate......you don't want to break bones or dislocate a joint falling through something.....
Also, any screws, religiously isolate the timber using epoxy. Unprotected penetrations allowing moisture in are the death of timber boats..... you're probably already aware of that. Keep on keeping on. 👍
Experienced sailor here, your construction of your engine mounts metal cross beams appear to be too close to the main wooden cross brace beam. So when the boat flexes it appears that the steel would start gouging into the wood.
I noticed that too, but guessed that it may have been the camera angle making the gap look too small.
It is looking good.
Regarding your engine sleds, make sure you properly lock all these nuts and bolts. You don't want the engine vibrations to loosem them.
You also want the know the snap vs bend rate... I would think you would want it to bend before snapping off.
You can put tube spacers inside the box section by making an insert tool. The insert tool can be a piece of wood or even pvc pipe that can fit inside the box section.
It would have a notch cut into its end to hold the spacer. It would also have a line attached to it that fastened to it on one side of the notch and extended across it and all the way back to the other end of this tool.
With this, the tube spacer can be shoved inside the box section until it lines up with the two holes in the box section.
Once the bolt is installed. The end of the line can be released, and the tool can be withdrawn.
Those decks will come up lovely chief, you've made a good job of them. You may be getting moisture in your boat tank, it binds with the ethanol and drops out the fuel which may be why you're getting the gummy build up in the carb, a fuel stabiliser could help you. But I'm no expert, it's just a theory.
It works. I recently had idling trouble with my 2 stroke Nissan outboard and come to find the fuel pump diaphragms warped and also the float valve cover... Bad gas.
Bigger bolt = bigger hole = less strenght on the stainless tubing. M10 is enough :)
Hi Mark. You are going great! You are getting things done and using good sense to design things. AND you also providing fantastic videos (multiple cameras and drones) while doing the work! Thankyou.
But you are worried about structural details like the bolt. Worry is a good thing to help you get things right but when it is part of a structure like the engine support system, you need the whole structure to be checked as that bolt may not be the weakest point, so my recommendation is to seek out a qualified friend!
I YOU, reading this in the Netherlands, are a qualified mechanical engineer and have a little time to do a proper analysis and at the same time gain a friend, then get in touch with Mark to make sure his whole system is well engineered!
Mark. you could put the word out through your boating contacts in the Netherlands to find this new friend as well. I note most large boat projects have such friends who help out with good effect!
I have followed since you left the UK to travel down the French canals and have enjoyed all your adventures. Keep it up.
Nice rebuild of the carb, good job Mark
Mark, watching you work now is like next level, youve come on so much. Keep it up man, cant wait to see some summer sailing and your adventures.
Quite the span for those decking boards. Hopefully you are tethered to the boat at all times while on voyages.
You only need to be tethered the one time you get thrown overboard. If you're not thrown overboard, you don't need the tether (he! he!)
An M10 bolt can hold 2,009.6 KG of pull
On the end of the bolt it says 8.8
to make the calculation
must be multiplied by 8x8 = 64 kilos per square millimeter.
If it is an M10, you multiply 10 by PI, which is 3.14.
10 x 3.14 = 31.4 times the 64 = 2.009.6 KG KG of pull 😉
Maybe think about a couple of basically just sticks or rods that you can slide a bolt thru when your engines are all the way up and that would take all the stress off your undersized lifting tackle.
A tool manufacturer needs to give this man a brand deal! I do love the fact you do some things old school. Your dad is amazing!
The places where you were unable to put sleeves on bolts in tubing you could use fender washers if you think it will collapse under stress .looking forward to see the next video, thanks brother
On the skutsje I sailed on we used clinkers to link the wooden deck planks. (So we used iron rivets on the wooden planks). Screws like you’re using will rot out eventually.
Nice work on the deck and i would have no problem trusting the hardware you used , plenty strong enough.
I hope all the project people noticed the technique that Mark used to rivet the angle on the motor mounts. He drilled all the holes in the aluminum, then drilled and fastened one hole at a time in the stainless. This prevents the error of holes being slightly off when you fasten it.
Sure, but it also invites accelerated galvanic corrosion between the dissimilar metals. Those rivets are going to rust away and pop off/fail in no time. He needs to swap the Aluminum for stainless.
@@jonnymeyer8572Exactly my thinking. The aluminum will disappear fast (depending on alu grade) in contact with stainless and salty sea water. So that design should be changed to stainless, especially for the deck support so he doesn't fall through!
The bolts are fine , what will get you is vibration and movement may back off the nuts . . The trouble for me with any home built boat is that while the design may be off shore it really comes down to the quality of the build .
If they fail it will to be ripped off by a huge wave but most likely the issue will be they come loose during a rough passage forcing you to jury rig at sea .