Thanks for the video Mark I am 45 years old broke my neck in 1999 paralyzed me from the shoulders down. I am dying now your videos relax me and take my mind off of things. Thank you.
I was healed of a stomach tumour by Jesus Christ's Holy Spirit whilst watching online. Children healed of autism, adults of cancer, paralysis, alzheimers etc etc..God is on the move, you're too young to die..if you want to live, call out and ask Him to save you and heal you and remove darkness my friend. 🙏
This life is but a blink in the timeline and eternity is forever. It may be hard to understand but God always has a reason for what He allows to happen to us. We are all born on death row it's just that some are given more time than others. As the father of a special needs son who should have never survived past birth, and is now 27 years old, who has brought so much joy into our lives while completely changing it. I can tell you with certainty God is good and He can heal things we can't even imagine if it is His will to do so. If you haven't already give yourself to Christ. He will keep and protect you whether in this life or in the one to come where there is no pain, just pure love and joy without sickness or tears. Life doesn't end with death, it goes on forever with or without His presence and that choice is yours, please choose wisely... Romans 10:9 Below are some of the many things that finally lead me to saving faith in the LORD, the fact that it's all true and has far surpassed the requirements of Historicity. With all of the evidence we now have there's simply no way I can logically doubt His Word and by extension the LORD Himself. These other books and writings from antiquity are held up as truth and in some cases factual history. These other books/poems and there evidence/sources: Second most common manuscript document Homer's Iliad meaning there are more copies of it than any other secular writing/document from antiquity of which only 643 exist dating from 13th century AD. Homer is believed to have wrote it in the 8th century BC. The Gallic Wars of Cesar in 1st century BC, there are only 10 manuscripts of that in existence dating over 1000 years after they were supposed to have been written. Herodotus wrote of history and is known as one of the first historians 5th century BC and only 8 manuscripts exist and they are from more than 1300 years after he wrote anything. History of the Peloponnesian War written by Thucydides. There are only 8 manuscripts that are from 1300 years after he supposedly wrote his account. Side notes on other religions: Book of Mormon and their various writings prior to the 1820-30's = 0 as in nothing has been found to support any of it except where it is clearly plagiarized from Scripture. Now let's look at Biblical proofs: We have a reliable collection of historical documents written by eyewitnesses during the lifetime of other eyewitnesses. They report super natural events that took place in fulfilment of specific prophecies and claim that their writings are via divine inspiration, not from men alone. Jesus Christ healed the sick, blind, deaf, dumb and paralyzed, cast out demons, walked on water, fed thousands with little, and was resurrected all of which have eyewitness accounts. The feedings alone were witnessed by the thousands He fed on the two separate occasions that we are told of in the Gospels. John tells us that there were many more signs/miracles than what are recorded in the Gospels/Bible and that it would have filled the entire earth were they all to have been written down. There can be no doubt as to the accuracy of our current Bibles as it is proven via all the source fragments, scrolls, papyri, codex' and sources dating all the way back to before Christ around 700 BC for the OT and between 100 to 150 AD for the NT. We have more proof for God's Word than any other written word in history, it is by order of magnitudes more. The early Church Fathers prior to 325 AD: Those known as the Anti-Nicene Fathers writings contain over 32,000 quotes from the New Testament from which we could reconstruct the entire/complete NT from those alone. They also contain over 19,000+ quotes from the Gospels alone prior to 325 AD. The Bible is not just a book it is a collection of 66 Books all of which are linked together by One Divine Author. In this collection of Books there are over 40 authors but only one Devine Author who links them all together via the Holy Spirit. Those authors wrote down His inspired Word. The bulk of the New Testament was written over a period of around 50 years. It was in 49 AD to 53 AD when the Scripture writings of the New Testament are thought to have begun. With the last living Apostle John dying in 100 AD. Over a period of around 1500 years it was preserved and passed on: In 3 Languages On 3 Continents There are 66,360+ source documents that have been found for the entire Bible of which there are 24,360 and counting source documents for the New Testament alone. 5,839 in the original Greek, some 2 million pages 18,524 translations of that Greek into other languages Some of the oldest sources date to 125AD which is within decades of the completion of all the books that were canonized as the New Testament. Augustine of Hippo, (354-430), was one of the church fathers as they're known. He was a good teacher but flawed by the circumstances of his day. He taught during the time of monarchies and rather than offend them he went against those that came before him such as Iranaeus, Polycarp, Ephraim and many others. He's the first we see in history who downplayed and didn't truly teach the Doctrine of Eminency according to Scripture. I'd imagine those in the monarchy would not have liked to be told how the real and true King, our Lord and Savior, the Lord of Lords and King of Kings could return at any moment. As a result for all the sound doctrine and his magnificent work against heresies of his day Augustine has left behind in his writings. His lack of teaching on the doctrine of eminency has left a lasting impression on our faith. There's also another issue as he was very antisemitic. Those asking for "Scientific Proof" of the Bible are either ignorant or asking with evil intent. Scientific Method is basically: 1) Has to be observable. 2) Has to be measurable. 3) Has to be repeatable. Therefore no history can ever be proven via scientific method. You must use the historical method based on: Eyewitnesses accounts. Documents from that time or as close as possible. Make sure the story is corroborated by as many sources as possible. Look for anyone/anything that attempted to prove any of it false in that time period or as close to it as possible. Did anyone successfully prove any of it untrue, if they did why has no record of it been found? Mathew = Was written more to the Jewish audience and that's one of the reasons for the extensive genealogy of Christ. There are also more references to the Old Testament in his Gospel compared to the others. Mark = The shortest of the Gospels and is very direct or "Just the Facts" if you like. Luke = Historian A man of science, a physician, an educated and logical man who researched and gathered the accounts of eyewitnesses. He recorded the actual eyewitness accounts of our Lord and Savior, those who had heard Him speak and were present/saw the signs/miracles He performed, such as the Apostle Peter. He did this because the life of those eyewitnesses were coming to an end due to age, or Martyrdom, and he was inspired to write them down via the Holy Spirit before they could be lost or perverted by time. John = Evangelist John is organized around 7 specific events/signs/miracles all seen by eyewitnesses and corroborated by many. So he also provides proof of accuracy/truth. All of the Apostles were eyewitnesses of Jesus and/or of the resurrected Christ. Including Paul whom Jesus came to as he was on the road traveling to Damascus to persecute more Christians. This would have been the resurrected Christ or a form of Him from Heaven. There were at least 300 eyewitnesses still alive when Corinthians was written who could have disputed it but no one did. Mathias became the 12th Apostle after Judas hung himself so the argument of there not being 12 Apostles comes from ignorance or evil intent. Other cultures and non believer's historical documents show or corroborate many things that are in the Bible. Yet none of them prove any of it to be false yet they do strengthen it. No other book in history has the proof the Bible does, it is not even close. As I've shown because of the over abundance of source materials we can even be critical of what we have and know for certain that we have His Inspired Word. Word for Word and Optimal Translations prove just how accurate what we have is. Biblical Historian/Theologian AT. Robertson said we have a vast array of Biblical Manuscripts that allow us to reconstruct the Bible with more than a 99.9% degree of accuracy. With the number of archaeological excavations, (25,000+ and counting to date), it is only a matter of time until we see more ancient biblical texts and supporting secular evidence found. The Bible is the very Word of God, it is a collection of eyewitness accounts written by other inspired eyewitnesses. There's no longer any excuse for anyone to ignore that fact or to dispute it. The evidence simply does not support their arguments/views. Take care and God Bless...
The windows may be fine, but just in case, carry a couple of pieces of plywood of approximately the right size to cover the holes, and something to hold them in place. That might be as simple as working out in advance which locker covers or floor boards you could use in an emergency.
"Drill, Fill, Drill" when it comes to using hardware on a wooden boat. DRILL a new, slightly oversized hold. FILL with thickened epoxy, let cure. DRILL a new hole to the desired dimension. This will give you a waterproof and very strong material to screw into many times without worrying about damaging the wood underneath. Cheers from FL, USA!
Mark, just a note in regards to Acetone. It's a pooling gas when it vaporizes, which means it gets into the lowest areas of the boat that it can, and as a HIGHLY flammable vapor, that is extremely dangerous. Boats have burned to the bottom due to Acetone. I'd recommend that any time you work with Acetone, you try to do so outside, or at the VERY least, have a high volume of airflow into and out of your boat to reduce risks as much as possible.
Hint for 18:57 - an FFP2 dust mask is absolutely useless against epoxy and solvent fumes. If you are concerned there, you need a half mask with correctly rated gas/fume filter cartridges.
All you need to know Mark is that the forces on the mast and when under sail is DOWNWARDS. As long as the thwartship beams are sound you' be fine with what you already have . Also when grinding cover your hatches as the sparks will burn into the glass/perspex and leave rust marks that you will never get rid of.
I agree, the beam is way strong enough on its own. Don't forget to seal the bolt boreholes! Might have been neater and safer to counterbore for the washers and nuts.
Great video. Boat is really taking shape. Your mast beam and fitting looks very strong. What preservative are you going to use on your deck boards. 🤔 Looking forward to next week's video.
Yes, the force on the mast step is mainly down as it’s taking the weight of the rig. However, when the boat goes to windward and heels there’s quite a lot of sideways force on it too e.g on port tack, the base of the mast will be trying to move to port … You’ll just have to try it out and find out!
I'm loving your confidence and not caring about getting terminology right. "thing-a-ma-jig", etc.. "let's just call it a window". Too funny. One of the only channels that I actually giggle out loud. Keep up the crazy amazing work. I also have to mention that your camera angles and extra efforts do not go unnoticed. That's a lot of work!! Your background music choices just make it even funnier. Nicely done.
Breath of fresh air. A lot of hobby folks get so anal about correct terminology. The actual words don't really matter as long as the job gets done imo.
Music was great as always…. If you think about making boat work so enjoyable to watch really us a craft, one you’re pretty much a master at. Thanks for sharing and taking us all along on the journey
For the center mast brace, pull the center screw and through drill the beam and second hardwood. A long allthread with washers and nylocks will sandwich the beam actually increase its rigidity and resistance to vibration loosening the screws. Drill, Bolt. Remove second screw, drill, bolt. Third screw, disassemble. Clean. Epoxying the allthread into the beam will seal the beam stopping moisture impregnation improving the existing sealing method. You have a good idea, its just needed another set of eyes to think a little differently about the implementation. Keep up the good work.
Mark, Sir, I am astonished at how much you are forging ahead with your boat. I am interested in flying to the USA and spend time with my brother and his family in the Los Angeles area. I would like to buy a 30 - 35 foot boat and sail that first to London to see my mom's sister there, then came to see you. Then I can sail on the Cape to Rio route (to Cape Town) see family there, then up the coast to Port Elizabeth to see friends, then solo to Richards Bay.
The Netherlands store called action here in the United States we have one is called Harbor freight Don't get me wrong, Harbor freight sells some inexpensive stuff, but you can find a gem here and there.
Just a bit of advice from a marine engineer remove the sikoflex what you have done if you think about it is put a cap on a u, same reason your wellies won't dry when upside down moisture cannot evapourate let it breath or whatever.
This is my favorite sailboat refurbishing channel - I love that it is down to earth and honest ❤ can't wait to see her sailing and follow your adventures
Love to see you both helping Mark out on the boat, you are a lovely family and support each other enormously. You are all very talented and enthusiastic, safe trip over look forward watching you all hard at it. ❤️
Hiya Mark, looking good as always. Just a tip to maybe support your steps with a brace underneath, giving more strength as the steps flex when stepped on. It's really coming along nicely, and I'm so happy that we are going to see Mum and Dad soon. Mum makes the inside so homely😂😂 Keep it up, love the show, cheer Craig UK.
Put some ceramic grease on stainless threads, that will keep the stainless from basically cold welding itself together, especially on things you're going to be moving or on anything you might want to unbolt later.
Great video. Bloody nice work Mark. Small and Big steps getting done there. Sanding back the mast step timber looked like a bugger of a job but you've got it done. If you have any more Compression sleeves to insert in RHS use tabs of masking tape or any other tape to hold onto them then peel it off once the threaded rod has been inserted but prior to tightening up the nuts👍 Cheers
If those stairs start flexing too much, you can epoxy / fiberglass a small vertical triangular shaped boards under the steps. Gives them a huge amount of support. Dad calls them "stiff backs", but he probably just made that term up. lol. I put some under 1x4 pine planks for my outriggers. Those boards that would normally snap like a toothpicks have held up my 200 lbs plus weight since 2009 and still doing the job today.
Particulate filter mask….maybe not so great for chemical vapor toxins while working in confined cabin space on epoxy repairs? Keep plugging away on those repairs and you will get there Mark. I admire you continue following your dreams. Best of luck mate ❤
You can use the yellow sandpaper "without the fluffy stuff" with a sander designed to use with "fluffy stuff" sandpaper by gluing the yellow stuff to a used pad of "fluffy stuff sandparer. Dunlop glue or Bison Kit works fine . You can avoid dropping the sheaves (bits of compression tube) simply by making a loop of sticky tape, hang the tube in the loop, stick the ends of the tape together and you can easily hold the tube in position with one hand whilst you slide in the M10 bolt with the other. I'd check how the portlights are fitted by drilling through one of the screw holes .They appear to be made out of alu If sub quality screws + sikaflex or similar were used the heads of the screws may have corroded away (galvanic corrosion) but the threads still under the hole. I'd through bolt the fixed side of the port lights with large head bolts going from the outside through the hull and nuts on the inside on the port light edge.
Would be nice to see some nice wooden support brackets under those steps, , it wouldn't be good to have one break off just when you need them IE in stormy weather, injury at sea isn't good . Fantastic fun watching you getting to grips with all the stuff you need to do to make it a blue water boat. 👍👍👍
Hi Mark, those port lights look vulnerable, I’d suggest you make up an emergency storm cover to go on the inside just to give you a back if one of them fails
Love your videos. This type of work takes much longer than is estimated. You might consider thru-bolting those window frames to the hull. They are going to take considerable abuse in the ocean.
You could beef up them steps, by adding strips of wood under each step at the ends going vertical so each one supports the next, will help them cracking at the ends. Just a thought. Great video Mark.
The vacuum cleaner trick was amazing ! You will get rust from all the cut, filed and machined stainless steel surfaces. It will be only cosmetic, I expect. HowardBeer is correct about the mast compression working in your favour on the mast support girder. I must get a Twingo ! Almost all foams will set, and eventually leak, but they will be fine for a good while, and then need replacement. This is just normal maintenance. Those are nice portlight fittings. Lewmar ? They are very likely stuck with a Sika product, and that stuff can be indestructible and durable. I liked the music. Nice video Mark. Thanks.
Those portlights concern me. I would think on putting bolts through them and make a removable external cover from plexiglass for open ocean travel!!! Eric and Nancy Hiscock had much experience with waves damaging their portlights and wrote good books on the subject...
I have an orbital sander that grabs the sand paper in claws, you should look for one of these, that will make the roll of 3M sand paper a whole lot more valuable. Every job done is one off the list, it looks crazy when you look ahead but sometimes you have to stop and look back to see how far you have come, that will boost your desire to move forward again.
Mark... you must remove the portlight frames from the hull and rebed them. Firstly, this is the most likely place where water will get in, and secondly in bad weather you'll not be having to worry whether they were correctly seated. The absence of retaining screws in the inner part of the frame would be a worry for me. Keep up the good work. Jonno
Hull integrity a non negotiable. Having re built many boat windows, it's more likely to leak through the old Mastik used to bond the window in orginally. It hardens with Age and becomes brittle, cracks form and water ingress starts. Do the job whilst you have the opportunity. Kind regards Jonno (also from Preston, but a now a live aboard in the ionian)
It's great to see your laid-back and positive view. You're so thorough with everything - no short cuts. You have your mast. Do you have the boom and sails too? I follow every episode. You are so lucky to have parents interested in the project. Bravo, Mark.
I think the term 'portlight' is correct. We used to call them portholes but if they have transparencies they become portlights, particularly if they are not round. They are 'ports' because they open.
Pedantically speaking, and risking a debate, a portlight can be fixed or opening, a deadlight is a fixed non-opening portlight, and a porthole tends to be circular.
Your videos are brilliant in capturing the reality of refitting (okay in your case rebuilding) a sailboat. Everything takes 3 times longer and 3 times more money than planned, but those of us who've done it wouldn't have it any other way.
Another great video as always! but the safety officer in me gets the chills when you use an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel without the guard (which I understand gets in the way, but that exists for a very good reason) and with what looks like no eye/face protection.
You might consider putting some tethering runs fixed like a monorail along the port and starboard sides that you can quickly clip on and off and move about aft and forward with minimal fear of gettting tripped up or going overboard in foul weather. I mean the stanchion things works, but does it really Captain Mark?...or is it Cap. Wildings?
Easy way to remember the difference between porthole and portlights is, portholes are "holes you can open and close" portlights, only allow light thru ,not air or water. Non opening. Hope this helps.
Oh mark could you make the background music just one off of half way to paradise ❤ that would be brilliant 😂I mean this in a nice way a song mum and dad would love as well or mr blue sky ❤
The greatest danger to wiring on a boat is vibration. Corrosion can be controlled easily: tinned cable, soldered terminals, heat shrink, etc. But if the cables are not supported well through their length, the constant motion of the boat will eventually start breaking the copper wires inside. The cable looks okay but inside, the wire gets smaller and smaller, increasing resistance until power out the end drops right off. Either run the cables through conduit (best) or physically support them at least every 100mm.
You can always get some spray on adhesive for the roll of sandpaper, just don’t use a lot until you see how it goes. I used it on the back of substrate that I was screen printing on to hold it in place because it was too light & it’s great after you determine how much “not to use”. This is getting so exciting as it comes together, it’s really looking solid, but it’s always been my first choice, I can tell by the way your “workmanship” has changed that this is already more of a home than any of the others & more “permanent” too!!! You’re putting so much more attention & thought into virtually everything now and it’s showing……
Great progress this week. Must say the porthole circumference holes I would investigate. They may just be stuck on… not enough. Lots of wave forces will be against them and you don’t want them popping out when sailing.
If that phone stuff don't work you can get hold of a expanding foam a lot of people use it for when you're putting stylites and stuff like that in to seal the surround
About electrics: maybe also think about doing something for lightning strike protection: a conductive path from the top of the mast down to the lowest points in the hulls and into the water.(= ground). If a boat gets struck the lightning bolt can punch a hole in the hull if it doesn't have a controlled conductive path to ground. For all other electrics: make sure you use proper gauge wires and proper amp value fuses. If you need to switch something powerfull use a relay in between switch and the thing drawing power. But you probably know all that from the car tinkering. If would also be cool and usefull if you would wire in a permanent forward looking camera on top of the mast.
You can save the worn 'Velcro' sanding sheets and use contact cement to adhere bits of roll sandpaper to the old base. Before the velcro pads came out, we used contact cement to stick sanding discs directly to the foam pad on our sanders.
hey fella, check out free range sailings utube videos on epoxy, I am thinking your threw holes for cabling. Troy would make a countersunk v top and bottom of a drilled through hole, tape the bottom, fill with epoxy to make a expoxy "rivet" then drill through the expoxy rvet for a through hole. it meant no water got to the timber or fibre glass, epoxy was held in place by the Vs', the through hole was servicable. some great tips in his videos as well as some Australian destinations. cheers
Great to see the uprights and extra threads cut off, much safer. 2x👍 You have lots and lots of odd jobs to do while you wait, especially if you want to leave the marina soon.
Thanks for the videos I really enjoy them. Don't take this wrong way, I found myself asking "Would I go to Sea with you?" The answer is no, but that's today's answer and I'm sure as you progress the answer will definately change. Keep plugging away you will get there.
Watching you do all that manual sanding and hand sawing all that lumber then grab any number of power tools, grinders, cut wheels ETC, just makes me go HMMMMM..........
Mark, there is a little advantage to an extra support block for your mast step. Any loads on this mast step will be compression loads from the mast pressing directly down. As I see the mast step block is supported on 3 different beams - which means all the loads are distributed over a very large area of very strong construction elements. There is no situation your mast can start putting load in different direction while sailing. Or, maybe I should put it differently - if load from your mast will not be pure compressive load while under load from sails - then you have much more serious problem than a lack of extra block. Plainly speaking - a mast which is working in any other way that as a pole under compression WILL break. Normally your shrouds make sure that never happens, creating a crate element (and in such element forces are distributed ALONG the axis of the members). So any instability in this whole system may happen only when one (or more) of the elements are missing under load - for example one of your shrouds breaks. I all elements are ok, the foot of the mast is just pressing directly down. Monika
I hope your square tubing doesn't collapse under thru bolt compression. If so, cut some pipe tubing spacers to put inside the square tubing around the bolts. .
Been keeping my eye on those beat up/scuffed red stairs for ~1 year now, waiting for you to make them beautiful. Not sure I'll see beautiful yet, but at least it's a start 😉😂 💕 ..
When you opened that porthole I fully expected the "hissing swan" to be there. If I were in a cartoonish frame of mind - and I am - he should "pop up" like a running joke when we least expect it. I believe he has a weird entertainment value. Cheers !
Hey Mark. Good Week Bro. A couple ideas for you -- Those little porthole windows below , likely wont leak where you put in the new foam , but rather where the plexiglass/glass connects to the frame. And then 100% those frames need to come out and be re installed properly and ultra secure. That is the LAST place you want salt water leakage. If you take them out I'll bet you could go to a local Glass/Window shop and they'd replace that glass with something thicker and safer and seal it to last 20 years. Then when re installing just bolt it thru or screw it in with Rivet Nut type inserts. (??) Something I saw on another vessel with curved steps like yours was the guy cut his off except a 1" nub , and replaced with Skateboard Decks. It was a bit of work , but damn it looked cool. As far as Electrical goes. Contact Paneltronics in Hollywood ( Miami , Fla ) and they have tons of good used 12v dc and 115v ac breaker panels , and even on Ebay you can find that brand. IF you want to stay super cheap just ask the marina yard guys if there's any vessels headed for death row you could pay a couple quid for a decent breaker panel DONT get a fuse panel. Get Breakers , and you'll need Minimum 8 , trust me , 10 or 12 even better. Amazon has Ancor Marine Coax wire on sale lately. , you'll need at least 1 - 100ft roll of 14/2 ( $65 ) and maybe 50ft of 12/2 for any shore power outlet under 40amp. Get some of the wire connectors that have the little flip ups and wires push right in. Also while on Electric run Coax for your VHF wire and do you already have a VHF Radio ? If not look for a good used one. Some of the older ones from REAL Ships have bigger wattage output. Also on Amazon some Wire Loom covering and the tack on connectors to hold it along walls where needed. You might wanna setup your Water tankage and run a line to your sink and a little 12v pump. OR -- use 5 gallon blue water bottles with those rechargeable pumps that sit on top , but instead of sitting the pump on top , just run the intake hose thru the plastic lid and put the pump next to the sink and there ya have a re-chargeable tap. ( did that in the Nomad Van ) Another option to think on is Showering , Also on Amazon a cheap Propane All in One instant hot water heater with shower head. Mount the unit somewhere safe and extend the handheld shower line up to 20ft. You can even get a cheap privacy shower tent and stand on deck and have a hot shower , when weather permits. Other ideas are Circulation of Air. Some 4" dryer hose and a few 4" inline fans and you can move a ton of air to assure your breathing clean and fresh. It also might be close to time to for some Stanchion poles and lifelines. Look around at scrapped yachts for those parts. So many great stainless and chrome pieces on big yachts headed for the boneyard. And how about your external lighting ? Red & Green on front hulls and then large white post on rear. And a SPOT beam LED on deck maybe. One other thing to maybe keep an eye out for is a good used Tiller Pilot and arrangement to set that up on your Tiller. And what about a Manual Compass on Deck in a cool place near the Cockpit. Well that's all I can think of this week. I do have a TON of stuff you could use if we could figure out logistics, maybe to UK and your parents could bring it from there. Tons of Small hardware and rigging related hardware that I have leftover from last couple refits. Let me know. Cheers & Beers 🍺 Mark. Take Care. Chris & Stella Port Dalhousie SV Jaz
Ahoy mate! Thanks for all that info, reading while having my morning coffee. Hey, don’t worry about it, I think the shipping costs would be pretty ridiculous, and my parents are coming over this week, so it’ll be a while before it gets to me. Really appreciate the offer matey!! ✊
@@WildlingSailing Did you put a splash of Baileys Irish Cream in your Java this morning ? LoL I did. Im headed out on a mission to buy several outboards today ranging from 2hp to 6hp all super cheap needing tune ups so I can fix em and resell em to fisherman. Have a Great Day Mark. and you know i'm always at your service buddy !!
The music is great! It has a very 1970's vibe which I like. The boat is coming along nicely too. I wouldn't worry about the strength at all, you are way overbuilding everything as it is. I used that same tape on a flush deck hatch. It works well, might want to grease it using silicone grease to prevent it from sticking and tearing after having been closed for a while. A car door rubber anti freeze stick will work too. The rubber will take on a set after a week or so, it will form a perfect seal on its own after a while.
You are making great progress Mark, this is my favourite sailing TH-cam channel, even though you are not sailing. But enjoying the journey, you will get there.
Great video mark your doing well Mahi is looking great compared to when you first got her. It will be nice to see your parents they always give you inspiration to do more see you next time 😊😊
I've got my marigolds, cleaning products, old clothes, rags etc etc all ready - 7 more sleeps - whoop....Love, as always...Mum AKA Mary!!!😂🤗⛵️🤗🤣
When you get there give that boy a smack and tell'em to call you Mum...😁
Awesome Mary. No matter how old we get, we always need our mum. I wish mine was still around as she was my best buddy.
@greghall14 ....Exactly Greg! My Mum is 92 & I still need her🤗⛵️🤗
My mum still insists on smuggling marmite to me...like I haven't already got three jars with the lids stuck on.
6 sleeps now!
Go Mary!!
Thanks for the video Mark I am 45 years old broke my neck in 1999 paralyzed me from the shoulders down. I am dying now your videos relax me and take my mind off of things. Thank you.
That's so sad to hear😢
@@MaryFandStevieGsad but it’s great that mark can help .
If you haven’t already go watch from
Episode 1 of the tally ho project it’s soo good !! Trust me
I was healed of a stomach tumour by Jesus Christ's Holy Spirit whilst watching online. Children healed of autism, adults of cancer, paralysis, alzheimers etc etc..God is on the move, you're too young to die..if you want to live, call out and ask Him to save you and heal you and remove darkness my friend. 🙏
This life is but a blink in the timeline and eternity is forever. It may be hard to understand but God always has a reason for what He allows to happen to us. We are all born on death row it's just that some are given more time than others. As the father of a special needs son who should have never survived past birth, and is now 27 years old, who has brought so much joy into our lives while completely changing it. I can tell you with certainty God is good and He can heal things we can't even imagine if it is His will to do so. If you haven't already give yourself to Christ. He will keep and protect you whether in this life or in the one to come where there is no pain, just pure love and joy without sickness or tears. Life doesn't end with death, it goes on forever with or without His presence and that choice is yours, please choose wisely...
Romans 10:9
Below are some of the many things that finally lead me to saving faith in the LORD, the fact that it's all true and has far surpassed the requirements of Historicity.
With all of the evidence we now have there's simply no way I can logically doubt His Word and by extension the LORD Himself.
These other books and writings from antiquity are held up as truth and in some cases factual history.
These other books/poems and there evidence/sources:
Second most common manuscript document Homer's Iliad meaning there are more copies of it than any other secular writing/document from antiquity of which only 643 exist dating from 13th century AD. Homer is believed to have wrote it in the 8th century BC.
The Gallic Wars of Cesar in 1st century BC, there are only 10 manuscripts of that in existence dating over 1000 years after they were supposed to have been written.
Herodotus wrote of history and is known as one of the first historians 5th century BC and only 8 manuscripts exist and they are from more than 1300 years after he wrote anything.
History of the Peloponnesian War written by Thucydides. There are only 8 manuscripts that are from 1300 years after he supposedly wrote his account.
Side notes on other religions:
Book of Mormon and their various writings prior to the 1820-30's = 0 as in nothing has been found to support any of it except where it is clearly plagiarized from Scripture.
Now let's look at Biblical proofs:
We have a reliable collection of historical documents written by eyewitnesses during the lifetime of other eyewitnesses. They report super natural events that took place in fulfilment of specific prophecies and claim that their writings are via divine inspiration, not from men alone.
Jesus Christ healed the sick, blind, deaf, dumb and paralyzed, cast out demons, walked on water, fed thousands with little, and was resurrected all of which have eyewitness accounts.
The feedings alone were witnessed by the thousands He fed on the two separate occasions that we are told of in the Gospels.
John tells us that there were many more signs/miracles than what are recorded in the Gospels/Bible and that it would have filled the entire earth were they all to have been written down.
There can be no doubt as to the accuracy of our current Bibles as it is proven via all the source fragments, scrolls, papyri, codex' and sources dating all the way back to before Christ around 700 BC for the OT and between 100 to 150 AD for the NT. We have more proof for God's Word than any other written word in history, it is by order of magnitudes more.
The early Church Fathers prior to 325 AD:
Those known as the Anti-Nicene Fathers writings contain over 32,000 quotes from the New Testament from which we could reconstruct the entire/complete NT from those alone.
They also contain over 19,000+ quotes from the Gospels alone prior to 325 AD.
The Bible is not just a book it is a collection of 66 Books all of which are linked together by One Divine Author. In this collection of Books there are over 40 authors but only one Devine Author who links them all together via the Holy Spirit. Those authors wrote down His inspired Word.
The bulk of the New Testament was written over a period of around 50 years. It was in 49 AD to 53 AD when the Scripture writings of the New Testament are thought to have begun. With the last living Apostle John dying in 100 AD.
Over a period of around 1500 years it was preserved and passed on:
In 3 Languages
On 3 Continents
There are 66,360+ source documents that have been found for the entire Bible of which there are 24,360 and counting source documents for the New Testament alone.
5,839 in the original Greek, some 2 million pages
18,524 translations of that Greek into other languages
Some of the oldest sources date to 125AD which is within decades of the completion of all the books that were canonized as the New Testament.
Augustine of Hippo, (354-430), was one of the church fathers as they're known. He was a good teacher but flawed by the circumstances of his day. He taught during the time of monarchies and rather than offend them he went against those that came before him such as Iranaeus, Polycarp, Ephraim and many others. He's the first we see in history who downplayed and didn't truly teach the Doctrine of Eminency according to Scripture. I'd imagine those in the monarchy would not have liked to be told how the real and true King, our Lord and Savior, the Lord of Lords and King of Kings could return at any moment. As a result for all the sound doctrine and his magnificent work against heresies of his day Augustine has left behind in his writings. His lack of teaching on the doctrine of eminency has left a lasting impression on our faith. There's also another issue as he was very antisemitic.
Those asking for "Scientific Proof" of the Bible are either ignorant or asking with evil intent.
Scientific Method is basically:
1) Has to be observable.
2) Has to be measurable.
3) Has to be repeatable.
Therefore no history can ever be proven via scientific method.
You must use the historical method based on:
Eyewitnesses accounts.
Documents from that time or as close as possible.
Make sure the story is corroborated by as many sources as possible.
Look for anyone/anything that attempted to prove any of it false in that time period or as close to it as possible.
Did anyone successfully prove any of it untrue, if they did why has no record of it been found?
Mathew = Was written more to the Jewish audience and that's one of the reasons for the extensive genealogy of Christ. There are also more references to the Old Testament in his Gospel compared to the others.
Mark = The shortest of the Gospels and is very direct or "Just the Facts" if you like.
Luke = Historian
A man of science, a physician, an educated and logical man who researched and gathered the accounts of eyewitnesses. He recorded the actual eyewitness accounts of our Lord and Savior, those who had heard Him speak and were present/saw the signs/miracles He performed, such as the Apostle Peter. He did this because the life of those eyewitnesses were coming to an end due to age, or Martyrdom, and he was inspired to write them down via the Holy Spirit before they could be lost or perverted by time.
John = Evangelist
John is organized around 7 specific events/signs/miracles all seen by eyewitnesses and corroborated by many. So he also provides proof of accuracy/truth.
All of the Apostles were eyewitnesses of Jesus and/or of the resurrected Christ. Including Paul whom Jesus came to as he was on the road traveling to Damascus to persecute more Christians. This would have been the resurrected Christ or a form of Him from Heaven.
There were at least 300 eyewitnesses still alive when Corinthians was written who could have disputed it but no one did.
Mathias became the 12th Apostle after Judas hung himself so the argument of there not being 12 Apostles comes from ignorance or evil intent.
Other cultures and non believer's historical documents show or corroborate many things that are in the Bible. Yet none of them prove any of it to be false yet they do strengthen it.
No other book in history has the proof the Bible does, it is not even close. As I've shown because of the over abundance of source materials we can even be critical of what we have and know for certain that we have His Inspired Word.
Word for Word and Optimal Translations prove just how accurate what we have is.
Biblical Historian/Theologian AT. Robertson said we have a vast array of Biblical Manuscripts that allow us to reconstruct the Bible with more than a 99.9% degree of accuracy.
With the number of archaeological excavations, (25,000+ and counting to date), it is only a matter of time until we see more ancient biblical texts and supporting secular evidence found.
The Bible is the very Word of God, it is a collection of eyewitness accounts written by other inspired eyewitnesses.
There's no longer any excuse for anyone to ignore that fact or to dispute it.
The evidence simply does not support their arguments/views.
Take care and God Bless...
The windows may be fine, but just in case, carry a couple of pieces of plywood of approximately the right size to cover the holes, and something to hold them in place. That might be as simple as working out in advance which locker covers or floor boards you could use in an emergency.
"Drill, Fill, Drill" when it comes to using hardware on a wooden boat. DRILL a new, slightly oversized hold. FILL with thickened epoxy, let cure. DRILL a new hole to the desired dimension. This will give you a waterproof and very strong material to screw into many times without worrying about damaging the wood underneath. Cheers from FL, USA!
Mark, just a note in regards to Acetone. It's a pooling gas when it vaporizes, which means it gets into the lowest areas of the boat that it can, and as a HIGHLY flammable vapor, that is extremely dangerous. Boats have burned to the bottom due to Acetone. I'd recommend that any time you work with Acetone, you try to do so outside, or at the VERY least, have a high volume of airflow into and out of your boat to reduce risks as much as possible.
Hint for 18:57 - an FFP2 dust mask is absolutely useless against epoxy and solvent fumes. If you are concerned there, you need a half mask with correctly rated gas/fume filter cartridges.
All you need to know Mark is that the forces on the mast and when under sail is DOWNWARDS. As long as the thwartship beams are sound you' be fine with what you already have . Also when grinding cover your hatches as the sparks will burn into the glass/perspex and leave rust marks that you will never get rid of.
I agree, the beam is way strong enough on its own. Don't forget to seal the bolt boreholes! Might have been neater and safer to counterbore for the washers and nuts.
Great video. Boat is really taking shape. Your mast beam and fitting looks very strong.
What preservative are you going to use on your deck boards. 🤔
Looking forward to next week's video.
Yes, the force on the mast step is mainly down as it’s taking the weight of the rig. However, when the boat goes to windward and heels there’s quite a lot of sideways force on it too e.g on port tack, the base of the mast will be trying to move to port … You’ll just have to try it out and find out!
Thats what the shrouds are for !
@@michaelwilliams8781
I'm loving your confidence and not caring about getting terminology right. "thing-a-ma-jig", etc.. "let's just call it a window". Too funny. One of the only channels that I actually giggle out loud. Keep up the crazy amazing work. I also have to mention that your camera angles and extra efforts do not go unnoticed. That's a lot of work!! Your background music choices just make it even funnier. Nicely done.
Agree with everything you say Phil!🤗👍🤗
Breath of fresh air. A lot of hobby folks get so anal about correct terminology. The actual words don't really matter as long as the job gets done imo.
Music was great as always…. If you think about making boat work so enjoyable to watch really us a craft, one you’re pretty much a master at. Thanks for sharing and taking us all along on the journey
For the center mast brace, pull the center screw and through drill the beam and second hardwood. A long allthread with washers and nylocks will sandwich the beam actually increase its rigidity and resistance to vibration loosening the screws.
Drill, Bolt. Remove second screw, drill, bolt. Third screw, disassemble. Clean. Epoxying the allthread into the beam will seal the beam stopping moisture impregnation improving the existing sealing method. You have a good idea, its just needed another set of eyes to think a little differently about the implementation.
Keep up the good work.
Mark, Sir, I am astonished at how much you are forging ahead with your boat. I am interested in flying to the USA and spend time with my brother and his family in the Los Angeles area. I would like to buy a 30 - 35 foot boat and sail that first to London to see my mom's sister there, then came to see you. Then I can sail on the Cape to Rio route (to Cape Town) see family there, then up the coast to Port Elizabeth to see friends, then solo to Richards Bay.
Good stuff, I'd be tempted to sand & paint the whole deck white for when you're in hot places...
The Netherlands store called action here in the United States we have one is called Harbor freight Don't get me wrong, Harbor freight sells some inexpensive stuff, but you can find a gem here and there.
Just a bit of advice from a marine engineer remove the sikoflex what you have done if you think about it is put a cap on a u, same reason your wellies won't dry when upside down moisture cannot evapourate let it breath or whatever.
If you aren't already doing this, a cheaper way to fill gaps with resin is to use sawdust as the filler.
This is my favorite sailboat refurbishing channel - I love that it is down to earth and honest ❤ can't wait to see her sailing and follow your adventures
Love to see you both helping Mark out on the boat, you are a lovely family and support each other enormously. You are all very talented and enthusiastic, safe trip over look forward watching you all hard at it. ❤️
You've become quite the artist with fiberglass. Those step repairs looked fantastic. Nothing at all wrong with the music. Very tasty vibe.
Came here for the music. Wasn't disappointed.
Your enthusiasm never ceases to amaze. I'm a retired electrician amongst other things. I've had boats in the past. If you need any advice let me know.
Look forward to next week Mark. It’s always a nice start to the weekend seeing you getting on with the boat.
Hi Mark you need to get yourself a cheap half sheet sander. You can then utilise your free 3M paper as it's got those wire grippy bits
Ya , those you can fold in those pieces off the roll and they have snap-lock holders on each end. Very inexpensive and reliable tool.
Hiya Mark, looking good as always. Just a tip to maybe support your steps with a brace underneath, giving more strength as the steps flex when stepped on.
It's really coming along nicely, and I'm so happy that we are going to see Mum and Dad soon. Mum makes the inside so homely😂😂
Keep it up, love the show, cheer Craig UK.
Look for some stainless steel deep nuts then weld a T on the end for the windows
15:40 and 3:37 you crack me up, there's always something in here that really gets me chuckling. Looking forward to the simple electrics
Looking good, maybe countersink those bolts on the beam support so they are flush?
Put some ceramic grease on stainless threads, that will keep the stainless from basically cold welding itself together, especially on things you're going to be moving or on anything you might want to unbolt later.
Watch Exploration -Mundi! The boat/cat is your sister boat!
Great video mark I love seeing you cracking on with the small jobs they really make all the difference 😊
Great video.
Bloody nice work Mark.
Small and Big steps getting done there.
Sanding back the mast step timber looked like a bugger of a job but you've got it done.
If you have any more Compression sleeves to insert in RHS use tabs of masking tape or any other tape to hold onto them then peel it off once the threaded rod has been inserted but prior to tightening up the nuts👍
Cheers
If those stairs start flexing too much, you can epoxy / fiberglass a small vertical triangular shaped boards under the steps. Gives them a huge amount of support. Dad calls them "stiff backs", but he probably just made that term up. lol. I put some under 1x4 pine planks for my outriggers. Those boards that would normally snap like a toothpicks have held up my 200 lbs plus weight since 2009 and still doing the job today.
Particulate filter mask….maybe not so great for chemical vapor toxins while working in confined cabin space on epoxy repairs? Keep plugging away on those repairs and you will get there Mark. I admire you continue following your dreams. Best of luck mate ❤
Your channel is vibing well, shipmate! 🎉😊
You can use the yellow sandpaper "without the fluffy stuff" with a sander designed to use with "fluffy stuff" sandpaper by gluing the yellow stuff to a used pad of "fluffy stuff sandparer. Dunlop glue or Bison Kit works fine . You can avoid dropping the sheaves (bits of compression tube) simply by making a loop of sticky tape, hang the tube in the loop, stick the ends of the tape together and you can easily hold the tube in position with one hand whilst you slide in the M10 bolt with the other. I'd check how the portlights are fitted by drilling through one of the screw holes .They appear to be made out of alu If sub quality screws + sikaflex or similar were used the heads of the screws may have corroded away (galvanic corrosion) but the threads still under the hole. I'd through bolt the fixed side of the port lights with large head bolts going from the outside through the hull and nuts on the inside on the port light edge.
Put the guard back on the grinder sunshine. If that disc shatters it can hurt you bad.
Would be nice to see some nice wooden support brackets under those steps, , it wouldn't be good to have one break off just when you need them IE in stormy weather, injury at sea isn't good . Fantastic fun watching you getting to grips with all the stuff you need to do to make it a blue water boat. 👍👍👍
Who forgot to turn the plastic bags inside out before resting painted wood on them? Never mind - keep up the rest of the good work!
Hi Mark, those port lights look vulnerable, I’d suggest you make up an emergency storm cover to go on the inside just to give you a back if one of them fails
Love your videos. This type of work takes much longer than is estimated. You might consider thru-bolting those window frames to the hull. They are going to take considerable abuse in the ocean.
Simple is always good. I think the portable battery system will be a pain when you start cruising. She is coming along Mark.
Fit triangular plates under each step end to spread the load
You could beef up them steps, by adding strips of wood under each step at the ends going vertical so each one supports the next, will help them cracking at the ends. Just a thought. Great video Mark.
Music is always, spot on.
Best channel on the Tube.
The music is more like "spot off"...
Some white flow coat with anti slip mixed in would go a treat on those stairs 😊
The vacuum cleaner trick was amazing ! You will get rust from all the cut, filed and machined stainless steel surfaces. It will be only cosmetic, I expect. HowardBeer is correct about the mast compression working in your favour on the mast support girder. I must get a Twingo ! Almost all foams will set, and eventually leak, but they will be fine for a good while, and then need replacement. This is just normal maintenance. Those are nice portlight fittings. Lewmar ? They are very likely stuck with a Sika product, and that stuff can be indestructible and durable. I liked the music. Nice video Mark. Thanks.
Those portlights concern me. I would think on putting bolts through them and make a removable external cover from plexiglass for open ocean travel!!!
Eric and Nancy Hiscock had much experience with waves damaging their portlights and wrote good books on the subject...
Coming along nicely…….⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️
I have an orbital sander that grabs the sand paper in claws, you should look for one of these, that will make the roll of 3M sand paper a whole lot more valuable.
Every job done is one off the list, it looks crazy when you look ahead but sometimes you have to stop and look back to see how far you have come, that will boost your desire to move forward again.
Look on the local for sale for a "orbital sheet sander" to fit your sandpaper!
Mark... you must remove the portlight frames from the hull and rebed them. Firstly, this is the most likely place where water will get in, and secondly in bad weather you'll not be having to worry whether they were correctly seated. The absence of retaining screws in the inner part of the frame would be a worry for me. Keep up the good work. Jonno
Yeahh, I’m really not sure whether to take them off and rebed. That would definitely be sensible
Hull integrity a non negotiable. Having re built many boat windows, it's more likely to leak through the old Mastik used to bond the window in orginally. It hardens with Age and becomes brittle, cracks form and water ingress starts. Do the job whilst you have the opportunity. Kind regards Jonno (also from Preston, but a now a live aboard in the ionian)
The mast lights are important but the running lights, navigation and stern lights play a part too.
It's great to see your laid-back and positive view. You're so thorough with everything - no short cuts. You have your mast. Do you have the boom and sails too? I follow every episode. You are so lucky to have parents interested in the project. Bravo, Mark.
Regarding the light in the mast, I have chosen to have an extension cord that goes from the electrical panel to the mast
Thanks!
Thanks so much Joseph!! Very much appreciated!!
I think the term 'portlight' is correct. We used to call them portholes but if they have transparencies they become portlights, particularly if they are not round. They are 'ports' because they open.
Pedantically speaking, and risking a debate, a portlight can be fixed or opening, a deadlight is a fixed non-opening portlight, and a porthole tends to be circular.
Good Vid. The portlights look to be pop riveted in place.
Good job taking time to restore the window's
Your videos are brilliant in capturing the reality of refitting (okay in your case rebuilding) a sailboat. Everything takes 3 times longer and 3 times more money than planned, but those of us who've done it wouldn't have it any other way.
That thumbnail for the video is fantastic.
Reminds me of The Life Aquatic with Steve Zissou.
Another great video as always! but the safety officer in me gets the chills when you use an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel without the guard (which I understand gets in the way, but that exists for a very good reason) and with what looks like no eye/face protection.
Getting there Mark, keep going, the nice weather is just round the corner….so I keep being told. Andy UK
You might consider putting some tethering runs fixed like a monorail along the port and starboard sides that you can quickly clip on and off and move about aft and forward with minimal fear of gettting tripped up or going overboard in foul weather. I mean the stanchion things works, but does it really Captain Mark?...or is it Cap. Wildings?
The rubber on your windows needs to be proud so that when you clamp them shut it can compress against the opposite flat Face to make a proper seal,
You can get a flat grinder with clamps for that sandpaper. It’s what I use
Easy way to remember the difference between porthole and portlights is, portholes are "holes you can open and close" portlights, only allow light thru ,not air or water. Non opening. Hope this helps.
Haven't seen your videos in a while. You got way more then a 1000 views now days. Lol. I hope all is well with you and your.
Oh mark could you make the background music just one off of half way to paradise ❤ that would be brilliant 😂I mean this in a nice way a song mum and dad would love as well or mr blue sky ❤
The music is awesome. The stairs will be stronger than the original glass!
To avoid losing the sheath down inside the piece just put a long loop of masking tape around it to control it.
The greatest danger to wiring on a boat is vibration. Corrosion can be controlled easily: tinned cable, soldered terminals, heat shrink, etc. But if the cables are not supported well through their length, the constant motion of the boat will eventually start breaking the copper wires inside. The cable looks okay but inside, the wire gets smaller and smaller, increasing resistance until power out the end drops right off. Either run the cables through conduit (best) or physically support them at least every 100mm.
You can always get some spray on adhesive for the roll of sandpaper, just don’t use a lot until you see how it goes. I used it on the back of substrate that I was screen printing on to hold it in place because it was too light & it’s great after you determine how much “not to use”. This is getting so exciting as it comes together, it’s really looking solid, but it’s always been my first choice, I can tell by the way your “workmanship” has changed that this is already more of a home than any of the others & more “permanent” too!!! You’re putting so much more attention & thought into virtually everything now and it’s showing……
Great progress this week. Must say the porthole circumference holes I would investigate. They may just be stuck on… not enough. Lots of wave forces will be against them and you don’t want them popping out when sailing.
If that phone stuff don't work you can get hold of a expanding foam a lot of people use it for when you're putting stylites and stuff like that in to seal the surround
The weird music and the editing is cool, I like your style, it's different and honest.
I like your closeup shots, they bring us with you.
If that foam seal wears out, those windows look like they take the standard PERKO seal. A box is about $20 and should do both windows
Shouldn't those port lights be opening outwards? Refit them the other way around, the big waves will force them closed.
About electrics: maybe also think about doing something for lightning strike protection: a conductive path from the top of the mast down to the lowest points in the hulls and into the water.(= ground).
If a boat gets struck the lightning bolt can punch a hole in the hull if it doesn't have a controlled conductive path to ground.
For all other electrics: make sure you use proper gauge wires and proper amp value fuses.
If you need to switch something powerfull use a relay in between switch and the thing drawing power. But you probably know all that from the car tinkering.
If would also be cool and usefull if you would wire in a permanent forward looking camera on top of the mast.
Lightning strike protection is a must! Good advice and useful methodology for installation of the conductive path.
Glue the sheaths with some 5200 on the outside of the sheaths/inside the square tube. You remind me of...me.
You can save the worn 'Velcro' sanding sheets and use contact cement to adhere bits of roll sandpaper to the old base. Before the velcro pads came out, we used contact cement to stick sanding discs directly to the foam pad on our sanders.
hey fella, check out free range sailings utube videos on epoxy, I am thinking your threw holes for cabling. Troy would make a countersunk v top and bottom of a drilled through hole, tape the bottom, fill with epoxy to make a expoxy "rivet" then drill through the expoxy rvet for a through hole. it meant no water got to the timber or fibre glass, epoxy was held in place by the Vs', the through hole was servicable. some great tips in his videos as well as some Australian destinations. cheers
As always brilliant....watching you is inspirational sadly waiting for your next vid. Is hell .....all the best from South Africa.
Great to see the uprights and extra threads cut off, much safer. 2x👍 You have lots and lots of odd jobs to do while you wait, especially if you want to leave the marina soon.
Thanks for the videos I really enjoy them. Don't take this wrong way, I found myself asking "Would I go to Sea with you?" The answer is no, but that's today's answer and I'm sure as you progress the answer will definately change. Keep plugging away you will get there.
Many different epoxies fully catalyze and harden in Temps less than freezing.
For your ship power, besides lights I would also plan on amps and wiring for a radio. Not something I would leave to the "portable" stuff.
Watching you do all that manual sanding and hand sawing all that lumber then grab any number of power tools, grinders, cut wheels ETC, just makes me go HMMMMM..........
Mark, there is a little advantage to an extra support block for your mast step. Any loads on this mast step will be compression loads from the mast pressing directly down. As I see the mast step block is supported on 3 different beams - which means all the loads are distributed over a very large area of very strong construction elements. There is no situation your mast can start putting load in different direction while sailing. Or, maybe I should put it differently - if load from your mast will not be pure compressive load while under load from sails - then you have much more serious problem than a lack of extra block. Plainly speaking - a mast which is working in any other way that as a pole under compression WILL break. Normally your shrouds make sure that never happens, creating a crate element (and in such element forces are distributed ALONG the axis of the members). So any instability in this whole system may happen only when one (or more) of the elements are missing under load - for example one of your shrouds breaks. I all elements are ok, the foot of the mast is just pressing directly down. Monika
I hope your square tubing doesn't collapse under thru bolt compression. If so, cut some pipe tubing spacers to put inside the square tubing around the bolts. .
Great work this week. I still want to see a couple Deck Vents installed for that Air Conditioner. ;)
Loving it, next one lease 🙂
Been keeping my eye on those beat up/scuffed red stairs for ~1 year now, waiting for you to make them beautiful. Not sure I'll see beautiful yet, but at least it's a start 😉😂 💕 ..
Maybe a good idea to countersink the boltheads on the mast beam to give you a nice flat surface.
When you opened that porthole I fully expected the "hissing swan" to be there. If I were in a cartoonish frame of mind - and I am - he should "pop up" like a running joke when we least expect it. I believe he has a weird entertainment value. Cheers !
Haha, the don’t come around anymore :(
Thank beam came out marvelous. You'll be sailing in no time!
Hey Mark.
Good Week Bro.
A couple ideas for you --
Those little porthole windows below , likely wont leak where you put in the new foam , but rather where the plexiglass/glass connects to the frame. And then 100% those frames need to come out and be re installed properly and ultra secure. That is the LAST place you want salt water leakage. If you take them out I'll bet you could go to a local Glass/Window shop and they'd replace that glass with something thicker and safer and seal it to last 20 years. Then when re installing just bolt it thru or screw it in with Rivet Nut type inserts. (??)
Something I saw on another vessel with curved steps like yours was the guy cut his off except a 1" nub , and replaced with Skateboard Decks. It was a bit of work , but damn it looked cool.
As far as Electrical goes.
Contact Paneltronics in Hollywood ( Miami , Fla ) and they have tons of good used 12v dc and 115v ac breaker panels , and even on Ebay you can find that brand. IF you want to stay super cheap just ask the marina yard guys if there's any vessels headed for death row you could pay a couple quid for a decent breaker panel
DONT get a fuse panel. Get Breakers , and you'll need Minimum 8 , trust me , 10 or 12 even better.
Amazon has Ancor Marine Coax wire on sale lately. , you'll need at least 1 - 100ft roll of 14/2 ( $65 )
and maybe 50ft of 12/2 for any shore power outlet
under 40amp. Get some of the wire connectors that have the little flip ups and wires push right in.
Also while on Electric run Coax for your VHF wire and do you already have a VHF Radio ? If not look for a good used one. Some of the older ones from REAL Ships have bigger wattage output. Also on Amazon some Wire Loom covering and the tack on connectors to hold it along walls where needed.
You might wanna setup your Water tankage and run a line to your sink and a little 12v pump.
OR -- use 5 gallon blue water bottles with those rechargeable pumps that sit on top , but instead of sitting the pump on top , just run the intake hose thru the plastic lid and put the pump next to the sink and there ya have a re-chargeable tap.
( did that in the Nomad Van )
Another option to think on is Showering , Also on Amazon a cheap Propane All in One instant hot water heater with shower head. Mount the unit somewhere safe and extend the handheld shower line up to 20ft.
You can even get a cheap privacy shower tent and stand on deck and have a hot shower , when weather permits.
Other ideas are Circulation of Air. Some 4" dryer hose and a few 4" inline fans and you can move a ton of air to assure your breathing clean and fresh.
It also might be close to time to for some Stanchion poles and lifelines. Look around at scrapped yachts for those parts. So many great stainless and chrome pieces on big yachts headed for the boneyard.
And how about your external lighting ? Red & Green on front hulls and then large white post on rear. And a SPOT beam LED on deck maybe.
One other thing to maybe keep an eye out for is a good used Tiller Pilot and arrangement to set that up on your Tiller. And what about a Manual Compass on Deck in a cool place near the Cockpit.
Well that's all I can think of this week. I do have a TON of stuff you could use if we could figure out logistics, maybe to UK and your parents could bring it from there. Tons of Small hardware and rigging related hardware that I have leftover from last couple refits.
Let me know.
Cheers & Beers 🍺 Mark.
Take Care.
Chris & Stella
Port Dalhousie
SV Jaz
Ahoy mate! Thanks for all that info, reading while having my morning coffee. Hey, don’t worry about it, I think the shipping costs would be pretty ridiculous, and my parents are coming over this week, so it’ll be a while before it gets to me. Really appreciate the offer matey!! ✊
@@WildlingSailing Did you put a splash of Baileys Irish Cream in your Java this morning ? LoL
I did.
Im headed out on a mission to buy several outboards today ranging from 2hp to 6hp
all super cheap needing tune ups so I can fix em and resell em to fisherman.
Have a Great Day Mark.
and you know i'm always at your service buddy !!
I like when you show what it's like to live inside and aboard. You should do more of those videos. You've made so much progress and it looks so good!
Another awesome video
The music is great! It has a very 1970's vibe which I like. The boat is coming along nicely too. I wouldn't worry about the strength at all, you are way overbuilding everything as it is. I used that same tape on a flush deck hatch. It works well, might want to grease it using silicone grease to prevent it from sticking and tearing after having been closed for a while. A car door rubber anti freeze stick will work too. The rubber will take on a set after a week or so, it will form a perfect seal on its own after a while.
You are making great progress Mark, this is my favourite sailing TH-cam channel, even though you are not sailing. But enjoying the journey, you will get there.
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Great video mark your doing well Mahi is looking great compared to when you first got her. It will be nice to see your parents they always give you inspiration to do more see you next time 😊😊
Congrats Mark your fibreglassing skills have improved by leaps and bounds well done the build is looking really good cheers
He said his catamaran is "ocean-going." Where's the ocean? 😂 Just kidding Mark. Excellent video as usual. 😊😊😊