I just acquired one of those but little newer, and took it apart like you did. It was all complete but really dirty and cruddy so I watched the video to make sure I'm doing it right, 💯 I'll let you know how I make out 😀
Blimey, this takes me back to when I first started in the trade around 1976, repairing Homelite stuff here in the UK. Homelite XL, and XL2, Super XL, and Homelite 150 Auto's were a thing here. Would it be rude of me to say I don't miss them. How things have changed. 😉
I had one of these similar model but a made in Canada one. It was blue. Got it at an auction for $20.00. Sold it to a collector who eas thrilled with it. Worked perfectly.
ive used one and it really heats your hand up but beside that itll cut and make some noise make it better when its not a leaker as far as part, id get oregon parts to work on it
100% agreed on both. If it wasn’t easy to see during tuning, I did not get much if any change when adjusting the high (this carb only has high and idle adjustments). It likely needs gone through again down to removing the needle and checking/cleaning the check valves. As for the recoil, I did spray the backside with carb spray as I felt like it was more dirty than needing lubed but should have given it a squirt of WD while I was there like you said. I also think the spring needs to be wound up a few more turns since it seems to be on the lame side.
@@BackyardRepairs There's no Hi adjustment on these guys. Only idle and Low. High is set. Otherwise, love the video! Thanks for posting. I have an old '78 Super 2 that probbaly needs the same duck bills and carb kit.
Thanks for straightening me out out on that. When I inspected the carb originally I only saw the H marking on the carb and assumed that it was a high adjust screw. Now checking again there's clearly an "L" right next to the screw after cleaning it, and a screw "blank" next to the "H". Complete miss on that one, but now I know why I could never get it adjusted right lol.
I have a '74 that I bought when I was 17( new -original owner). Used it for a couple decades on and off. It sat in storage another couple decades - bought other saws. Decided to try starting it a couple years ago, and ran great ! No carbon on piston, shiny and oily ( years of 16:1 ) The starter rope hangs up sometimes. Don't want to do anything to it, afraid I can't get parts. Was a fun little saw !
Thanks for sharing! I was also surprised at the good condition on this one, figured it would have been a lot worse with how I found it. A starter rope fix on these should be pretty straight forward if nothing is broken and/or breaks on removal. I didn't have issues finding parts for this model, but when I did find them they were on the pricey-er side.
You haven't worked on many of these small Homlites, have you ? You were doing almost everything the hard way --- I worked in a saw shop in the 1990's and did hundreds and hundreds of small Homlites, Poulan, Craftsman, McCulloch saws (the cheapo homeowner type saws) ---- also every other kind of saw --- Stihl, Husky, Echo, Jonserends, etc, etc ---- You just love pulling the starting rope, don't you ? Properly adjusted carbs start pretty easily and don't take All Day to service up and move to another saw ---- you eventually learn to fix them quickly -- :)
Just picked one up from the recycler (mine was made around '83 thou (well that's the date on the carby) so no nice alloy case, but this video was hugely helpful thanks!
First of all, that small tube thats in the oil tank is a Sintered brass tube. That means the tube is pourous. The idea is that when you shut the saw off, the pressure in the tank is bled off through the Sintered tube back in to the crankcase otherwise the pressure will continue to push oil out until the pressure is bled off. There needs to be about 1/8" between the end of the Tygon tube and the end of the duckbill. Second, you have the air filter assembled wrong. That metal grate goes in first then the foam sits on top of the metal grate. The way you have it assembled, the foam air filter is pushed down in to the butterfly so flip the metal grate and the foam air filter around.
thanks for the tips! I believe I do have that gap between the line and the duckbill on that tube, but I will have to double check. For the air filter, I guess the foam isn't retained by anything then if it's meant to be on the outside of the metal grate? I figured I didn't have it quite right as shown in the vid, but just having it loose in there didn't seem correct either. I'll have to revisit this one day as the foam contacting the butterfly could have been causing the running/tuning issues I was seeing as well
I'd recommend browsing the Oregon website and look for one that fits Homelite with that square cutout for the chain tensioner/adjuster. You may not have the best selection of bar length, but it does look like some are available there
Would you mind posting where you were able to locate parts for this saw? Specifically I am looking for a carb kit and possibly a cylinder, piston set. I enjoyed your video, thanks for posting.
Thanks for commenting. I sourced parts through a mix of Amazon and eBay searching part numbers from the parts diagram I found online for this model. You should be able to look up the carb kit without that diagram using the numbers cast into the carburetor body, and plugging that in the Walbro website to make sure you get the right kit.
Appreciate it! The bar/chain combo I used was Oregon 27860 (12” bar, S48 chain). It was a new old stock eBay buy at the time of filming, so I’m not sure the exact one will be easy to find
If the chainsaw has an automatic oiling system like this one (driven off the engine), then it will constantly pump oil to the bar if the saw is running
0:32. If this is a Terry Industries unit. Serial number depicts 44442264 ( First digit) build year 1974. ( next 3 ) 44th week and 4 days 4th day. November 1 of 1974.( Maybe even October 31, 1974 of that year) I think Canada has a different method of serial number systems that goes by the year and weeks and day. It's a bit confusing. My dad bought this exact style saw back in 1975. I think you also have the 4 digit lot tag 6265 on the back of that case from where it was purchased. Also to note 2264 units of this saw were built. ( last 4 digits)
This is the exact information I was hoping someone would comment on this video. From my own search attempts, I was only able to get the 74 part, but was interested in the day and manufacturing location as well. Thanks so much!
Such an easy saw to work on. Video sounds like a bit of drama. Go to Leon's chainsaw parts and repair and get all the info, ipls for this and all homelites. 5 minute tail down on this saw.
Try going trhu the carb again(soak then blown out with comressed air)if that dosent get it, id bet cylinder base gasket or more likely crank seals..the carb not responding well or if any is give away.
Where did you get your parts from ? I have this saw too, ran a bit but not long fuel out exhaust picked it up at a flea market for 10 bucks So Id like to try and save it, Im missing about as much as you are LOL
I got all my stuff through a mixture of eBay and Amazon for best pricing and actual availability. This was a fun little project saw but the cost definitely added up quick with everything that was missing lol. Good luck on yours!
It might have been hard to see but I had the air filter installed under the metal frame piece, it was pretty compressed and easy to miss. Also kept that plastic piece off so I could access the carb adjusting screws a bit easier during initial use. Great catches!
Agreed.. I wasn't getting much response from the screws during tuning on this one and I'm sure there is some residual dirt in the carb still. One of these days I'm going to get it back out and re-clean the carb and look into that recoil.
Thanks for the tip on the reed valves! You're right, I should have hit the trigger way sooner when cranking it.. had blinders on in the moment to just get it adjusted to stay idling
I never had the carb tuned right in the video. Someone commented that these carbs only have L screws where I misread the casting as it being the H screw and adjusted it as the H lol. Oversight on my end
I have one just like that from my grandpa and it still works great.
They are good little saws!
I just acquired one of those but little newer, and took it apart like you did. It was all complete but really dirty and cruddy so I watched the video to make sure I'm doing it right, 💯 I'll let you know how I make out 😀
THANKS SO MUCH for this Video.. I took my XL apart And couldn't figure out the oil & gas lines . You showed it Perfectly..Also the Duckbills....👍👍
glad it helped!
Blimey, this takes me back to when I first started in the trade around 1976, repairing Homelite stuff here in the UK. Homelite XL, and XL2, Super XL, and Homelite 150 Auto's were a thing here. Would it be rude of me to say I don't miss them. How things have changed. 😉
I had one of these similar model but a made in Canada one. It was blue. Got it at an auction for $20.00. Sold it to a collector who eas thrilled with it. Worked perfectly.
Never saw a blue version of this saw, I’m sure that collector was chomping at the bit to get it. Thanks for sharing!
ive used one and it really heats your hand up but beside that itll cut and make some noise
make it better when its not a leaker
as far as part, id get oregon parts to work on it
Carb setting not adjusted right at all and why not lube the pull string right off the bat?
100% agreed on both. If it wasn’t easy to see during tuning, I did not get much if any change when adjusting the high (this carb only has high and idle adjustments). It likely needs gone through again down to removing the needle and checking/cleaning the check valves. As for the recoil, I did spray the backside with carb spray as I felt like it was more dirty than needing lubed but should have given it a squirt of WD while I was there like you said. I also think the spring needs to be wound up a few more turns since it seems to be on the lame side.
@@BackyardRepairs There's no Hi adjustment on these guys. Only idle and Low. High is set. Otherwise, love the video! Thanks for posting. I have an old '78 Super 2 that probbaly needs the same duck bills and carb kit.
Thanks for straightening me out out on that. When I inspected the carb originally I only saw the H marking on the carb and assumed that it was a high adjust screw. Now checking again there's clearly an "L" right next to the screw after cleaning it, and a screw "blank" next to the "H". Complete miss on that one, but now I know why I could never get it adjusted right lol.
Just bought a lot of saws, have 3 of them. Good pointers for when I tear into them this winter.
I have a '74 that I bought when I was 17( new -original owner). Used it for a couple decades on and off. It sat in storage another couple decades - bought other saws. Decided to try starting it a couple years ago, and ran great ! No carbon on piston, shiny and oily ( years of 16:1 ) The starter rope hangs up sometimes. Don't want to do anything to it, afraid I can't get parts. Was a fun little saw !
Thanks for sharing! I was also surprised at the good condition on this one, figured it would have been a lot worse with how I found it. A starter rope fix on these should be pretty straight forward if nothing is broken and/or breaks on removal. I didn't have issues finding parts for this model, but when I did find them they were on the pricey-er side.
I have Two Homelites, an Older One, Just Like THis one, and a Slightly Newer one.
You haven't worked on many of these small Homlites, have you ? You were doing almost everything the hard way --- I worked in a saw shop in the 1990's and did hundreds and hundreds of small Homlites, Poulan, Craftsman, McCulloch saws (the cheapo homeowner type saws) ---- also every other kind of saw --- Stihl, Husky, Echo, Jonserends, etc, etc ---- You just love pulling the starting rope, don't you ? Properly adjusted carbs start pretty easily and don't take All Day to service up and move to another saw ---- you eventually learn to fix them quickly -- :)
Just picked one up from the recycler (mine was made around '83 thou (well that's the date on the carby) so no nice alloy case, but this video was hugely helpful thanks!
glad it helped out!
First of all, that small tube thats in the oil tank is a Sintered brass tube. That means the tube is pourous. The idea is that when you shut the saw off, the pressure in the tank is bled off through the Sintered tube back in to the crankcase otherwise the pressure will continue to push oil out until the pressure is bled off. There needs to be about 1/8" between the end of the Tygon tube and the end of the duckbill. Second, you have the air filter assembled wrong. That metal grate goes in first then the foam sits on top of the metal grate. The way you have it assembled, the foam air filter is pushed down in to the butterfly so flip the metal grate and the foam air filter around.
thanks for the tips! I believe I do have that gap between the line and the duckbill on that tube, but I will have to double check. For the air filter, I guess the foam isn't retained by anything then if it's meant to be on the outside of the metal grate? I figured I didn't have it quite right as shown in the vid, but just having it loose in there didn't seem correct either. I'll have to revisit this one day as the foam contacting the butterfly could have been causing the running/tuning issues I was seeing as well
Got it back together but got to adjust the carb
I have one of those. Need to know what bar and chain to buy for it
I'd recommend browsing the Oregon website and look for one that fits Homelite with that square cutout for the chain tensioner/adjuster. You may not have the best selection of bar length, but it does look like some are available there
Would you mind posting where you were able to locate parts for this saw? Specifically I am looking for a carb kit and possibly a cylinder, piston set. I enjoyed your video, thanks for posting.
Thanks for commenting. I sourced parts through a mix of Amazon and eBay searching part numbers from the parts diagram I found online for this model. You should be able to look up the carb kit without that diagram using the numbers cast into the carburetor body, and plugging that in the Walbro website to make sure you get the right kit.
Thanks for a great video i have just rebuilt my XL 2 automatic new piston etc but could you please give me the part number for the bar and chain
Appreciate it! The bar/chain combo I used was Oregon 27860 (12” bar, S48 chain). It was a new old stock eBay buy at the time of filming, so I’m not sure the exact one will be easy to find
Is it normal for these chainsaw to “drip” or leak bar oil when they’re running
If the chainsaw has an automatic oiling system like this one (driven off the engine), then it will constantly pump oil to the bar if the saw is running
@@BackyardRepairs ok thank you for that information
Where did u find the sproket, I can't get it...
I sourced that one through eBay, looks to still be available there
House of Homelite Forum has some pretty good information on build dates and a downloadable PDF
0:32. If this is a Terry Industries unit. Serial number depicts 44442264 ( First digit) build year 1974. ( next 3 ) 44th week and 4 days 4th day. November 1 of 1974.( Maybe even October 31, 1974 of that year) I think Canada has a different method of serial number systems that goes by the year and weeks and day. It's a bit confusing. My dad bought this exact style saw back in 1975. I think you also have the 4 digit lot tag 6265 on the back of that case from where it was purchased. Also to note 2264 units of this saw were built. ( last 4 digits)
This is the exact information I was hoping someone would comment on this video. From my own search attempts, I was only able to get the 74 part, but was interested in the day and manufacturing location as well. Thanks so much!
No problem.
Who did you purchase your parts from?
It was a mixture of eBay and Amazon
Such an easy saw to work on. Video sounds like a bit of drama. Go to Leon's chainsaw parts and repair and get all the info, ipls for this and all homelites. 5 minute tail down on this saw.
Try going trhu the carb again(soak then blown out with comressed air)if that dosent get it, id bet cylinder base gasket or more likely crank seals..the carb not responding well or if any is give away.
Thanks for the tip! This is still sitting on my shelf to revisit at some point
Where did you get your parts from ? I have this saw too, ran a bit but not long fuel out exhaust picked it up at a flea market for 10 bucks So Id like to try and save it, Im missing about as much as you are LOL
I got all my stuff through a mixture of eBay and Amazon for best pricing and actual availability. This was a fun little project saw but the cost definitely added up quick with everything that was missing lol. Good luck on yours!
Maby the oversized fuel is crimping inthe cowli ng inlet.trythe right sized fuel line
You're missing the air filter foam and plastic cover that snaps in behind the oil and fuel caps
It might have been hard to see but I had the air filter installed under the metal frame piece, it was pretty compressed and easy to miss. Also kept that plastic piece off so I could access the carb adjusting screws a bit easier during initial use. Great catches!
Think if you adjusted the carb right should run faster ad cut way better.. i have three of these
Agreed.. I wasn't getting much response from the screws during tuning on this one and I'm sure there is some residual dirt in the carb still. One of these days I'm going to get it back out and re-clean the carb and look into that recoil.
ive got a john deere from that era the thing still hogs through wood like a champ
Most of those reed valves can be flipped over to seal better. Why would anyone crank a saw that long without giving it a little throttle???
Thanks for the tip on the reed valves! You're right, I should have hit the trigger way sooner when cranking it.. had blinders on in the moment to just get it adjusted to stay idling
High end seems starved
I never had the carb tuned right in the video. Someone commented that these carbs only have L screws where I misread the casting as it being the H screw and adjusted it as the H lol. Oversight on my end
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