Turning A Piece Of Scrap Into A Custom Router Template
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 เม.ย. 2024
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I've been working on building a dog run these past few weeks and ran into some complications with the vinyl fence. Needing to modify a fence post and not wanting to pay $150 in freight for another, I began to look online for fence templates. What I found was a kit for $895 which is WAY more than I was looking to spend. So I decided to DIY it and make my own. In this video we take a look at the process of designing, laser cutting, and using a template.
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Not securing the workpiece, fingers near a router bit, using the Knipex pliers backwards, using a miter saw with your left arm crossed over the blade path… kids, read your safety guidelines!
Good feedback. As someone who didnt grow up around or using power tools until recently its been a pretty big learning curve. I will remember this for the next project. 👍
@@ModBotArmy I’ve seen some scary accidents in the shop is all! Be safe my dude ✌️
@@BigfootPrinting I appreciate it. Becoming aware of these things sooner than later so I can build good habits is really important. 🙏
We all have to go from a place of no knowledge to a place of experience. We all start somewhere. As long as you do your best to stay safe, learn what you can before you begin, it’s a win in the end. None of us are born as a master craftsman, we all have to learn along the way. Anyone that is a master craftsman will have a long list of stories of failures that got them to the point they are at today. Good video, keep it up.
@BigfootPrinting It's great to kindly call it out because a lot of folks are watching who don't know better.
Don't turn the router on before inserting the bit into the hole (assuming you have space to drop it in) and always allow the bit to shop spinning before lifting the router out of the hole. Also, when routing an inside hole (like what you were doing) run the router around the edge of the template clockwise (and anti-clockwise if you were routing around the outside). This has you moving the router against the cutting action of the bit (conventional cutting) - doing it the other way (climb cutting) can allow the bit to grab and cause you to lose control of the router.
In hindsight, having it on before plunging does seem silly. I appreciate the feedback regarding direction. Ive heard the terms conevntional vs climb with a CNC but I can see that being even more important when you are the one operation the tool and not a rigid machine.
@@ModBotArmy sometimes (with a non-plunge router) you have to lower the router into the material with the bit spinning, but if you can avoid it it's always best. Climb cutting works well (for the right circumstances) on CNC machines and mills with low backlash, but with a router handheld (or in a table) it's lethal. Whilst it wasn't a deliberate climb cut (something got caught) I have one thumb slightly shorter than the other for exactly that reason. I don't suggest it ;)
PS Just ordered an EIBOS EASDRY based on your recommendation.
You're going to get all kinds of "things you did wrong" comments. If you're satisfied with the results, I don't think it matters how you got there. On that note, a trim bit is intended to remove a small amount of material. I would've cut the majority of the hole out with a jigsaw and then used the router and template to clean up the last little bit. You do good work and have a pleasant personality. Thanks for sharing.
Man... I had some "Fun" with a Router last year - I used templates I 3D Printed. Routers are amazing, but they surely require a few hours practicing until we start getting less than terrible results 🤣 You made me feel less stupid in retrospect ❤
An honest man, kudos to you.
Routers are a great tool but the learning curve can be steep
Oh man, the pucker factor at 6:21 with your hand in the post while the router was on!
The part where your dog ran to the gate and looked under it? I thought his next move would be to start digging under it!
Dawgs are smart - Colditz castle would fail to keep them in! 😊
Another informative episode, thanks for sharing your fence challenge 👍
I definitely enjoy "practical application" style videos for stuff like this, even if it doesn't come with a plethora of experience; it's almost more interesting to watch the learning process
Read up on climb cutting(milling) vs. conventional. The direction you push a router bit around an internal edge vs. an outside edge. That may have contributed to the chipped up hole. Will apply to CNC routers and mills.
i like this, a nice break from the mostly 3d printer content!
Daniel as cool as that was, and a bit scary at points, I'd have used the jig to draw where it needed to be cut and gone after it with a jigsaw and plastic cutting blades. There are some nice blades designed just for cutting PVC. Bosch and B&D
Oh man, find a spiral compression flush cut vs using a straight flute flush cut bit and you’ll be much happier in the end. Unless this was a one time ordeal then of course, whatever is cheapest :)
Btw the reason being is that the straight flute bit does exactly what you were experiencing, it grabs and pulls you into the cut. The spiral compression doesn’t do that and will leave you a very nice cut that is much much easier to control.
That’s good to know. I believe I have at least one for the CNC machine but it doesn’t have a bearing on it so I didn’t use it. I was really shocked to see how limited the selection appeared for bits/end mills with a bearing on the shank side.
Another option that will give you a little more bit flexibility is a router collet set (easy search term). No bearings needed and the collet rides on your pattern, making your choices of router bits much greater. Routers are fun critters! I did the same as you did but in a piece of aluminum. Quite frightening!
Nice project results. Fine looking fence!
@@ChrisInMarshfield true, I forget about collets at times. That would make the use of a cnc bit feasible at least.
@@ChrisInMarshfield tell me more! I have a range of collets for the cnc that slope you to swap between say a 1/4” and 1/8” shank but what your describing sounds like something that wouldn’t be rotating when the router is on. Is there another name for the specific type of collet?? It sounds like something I need to order.
Thank You for sharing your fence building experience. In the future - use a jig saw or a cutoff saw or anything to rough out the hole staying roughly 1/4" to 3/8" away from your finish line. You can even use a smaller 1/4" router bit and free hand it as you don't need to get that close to the finish line. Then use your router with the bearing bit and template just for that final 1/4" - 3/8" or so cut and it will cut like a hot knife through butter and it will do such a nice job you'll say - I need to use this technique more in the future. It's when your trying to make a cut that touches the bit on both sides, (full width of the router bit) that it wants to kick around. Also - with plastics a slower speed is usually preferred to avoid melting. 27,000 is fast.
Thanks for the tips. Sounds like I need to pick up a jigsaw. Having always rented up until recently my tool selection is quite limited. For saws all I have is skill and miter. Will bump jigsaw up that list 😊. Most of the chatter issues I ran into was because how small of an entry point I had. If I had removed more material I can see what your describing being much smoother than what I experienced.
The only practical difference between high and low router rpm is how quickly you can push the bit through the material, too slow a feed or too high an rpm can be a factor when it comes to burning or melting materials rather than cutting them cleanly but generally try slow first is the way to go.
That and the less material you rout away the better(also a lot less messy due to less material turned into dust and chips), especially with really hard or melty materials, which is why I tend to use a jig saw whenever I can to remove the bulk of the material.
Removing the bulk of material before routing also means less force is required to push and hold the router which converts to a lot more control over the tool...
The inside corners of the template did not need a filet. The bearing will touch the straight edges at the same points without the curve, and the bit will cut a curve regardless.
Great job.
Watching you put the router in the hole with it turned on was scaring the hell out of me. Never setup placement of a router with the power on. With the power off, you put it into place where you want to use it, and then turn it on to make the cuts. Then turn it off before you remove it. Think of it more of a drill that moves laterally. If it comes into contact with anything that causes it to bind, it will go flying, which is why you must always apply downward pressure.
Like your conclusion at the end, this method is more for people who need to do this regularly or to do dozens on a job. For just a few openings I would've just marked the openings and drilled holes at each corner, cut the sides with a cutt-off wheel(or reciprocating saw, or jigsaw, or oscillating saw) then filed them flush. Probably would've taken half the time and wouldn't have had to wait for parts.
Thoroughly enjoyable video, will certainly watch more of the same.
I ordered a laser cut frame for my diy Prusa build, but I forgot to add some holes that were supposed to be cut out. With a quick 3d printed drill guide I was able to drill out the missing holes without any problems occurring during the assembly
That $800 option ends up cheaper for anyone who doesn't already have a laser cutter. Of course, so would using a jigsaw to make a one time use template. And the cheapest option would have been some painters tape a drill and a jigsaw and just make the hole and not bother with a template.
It’s definitely a matter of using what you have. I don’t have a jigsaw so the thought of using one didn’t cross my mind. I’m sure that’s much more common than a laser. For repeat cuts or multiple jobs the laser/templates is really nice, but had I had the jigsaw it sounds like at the very least it would have been a good choice to remove the bulk of the opening.
@@ModBotArmy Sure, just pointing out that this was the most complicated alternative to just cutting the hole :)
I have the same makita router and maybe 5 will be too fast. You should lower it to 3-4 and use the other router adapter that comes with the machine that has handles to control more accurate the router and use gloves, face mask and security glasses because you will get injured if anything go directly into your face.
I nearly took my thumb off with one of those bits & similar router. Those bits are best if taking only about 1-2mm of material (cut most of it away with bandsaw or jigsaw.
You got lucky those ping songs didn't rip it out of your hands. A spiral bit is less likely to do that, but not impossible still.
Otherwise, modding your house = DIY/homeownership. Nothing is ever standard nor straight as it ought to be. Puts the "fun" in "incredibly frustrating " 😅
Oof, thats scary. I did quite a bit of searching around prior to ordering the bits but I wasnt able to pull results as well as id hoped. A bit part of it seems to have been that I was using PVC/Vinyl when 99% of what I found was for working with wood.
Yeah, I clamped down the jig but it sounds like using a jig saw to remove most of the material, clamping down the whole post, and making sure to turn on the router after in the jig and off before any upward motion would have been the better option.
haha I am getting very familiar with the "incredibly frustrating/fun" part.
You have fantastic taste in grass!
😂 haha there will be grass at some point. But we really needed to act fast because the dogs were tracking in a ton of mud.
nice video
40x140mm and 3/16" corners 🙂
Lol we dont discriminate :D
So just for future projects, your template didnt really need to have the corners rounded. As you mentioned your router bit was close enough and it physically cant get into the very corner to make a straight edge. That router bit can only do rounded corners, so you could have left your template you cut on the laser square and had basically the exact same outcome.
Also love these sort of videos, do as many of them as you want, I'll watch them!
Routers don't like to take big bites. Cut close to your line with other tools and then use the router to cut the last 1/4".
Routers should only be moved in certain directions. If the router is pulling itself out of your hand you're cutting in the wrong direction.
There are lots of good videos on TH-cam about using a router safety. I watched many of them after an avoidable incident where a handheld router took off about 1/3 of the fingernail on my left middle finger. The nail has never grown back properly.
Spade bits are for wood only. A simple Dremel could have cut this, I think. And I bet you could plngue cut with the router bit and not drill the hole.
The main reason I went with the spade is none of my regular drill bits were large enough. A sharpie outline and dremel might have been able to cut this but I’m not convinced I could have curved the edges with it (maybe a sanding bit). Setup would have been easier but for speed if you had many to do the router was really fast ~20 seconds per pocket. I think a smaller bit/larger bearing would have given me a better time and more padding. My biggest issue was finding the tool.
Keep it up... a router is an amazing tool for leveling up your projects and adding chamfers and stuff to them. Get more time on it, you'll love it.
As for us, we love these types of project videos!
Still got all your fingers ... that was scary ...
MUHAHAHAHAHAHA high speed rotating Tools moved by Hand is like Rodeo!!!! Nice and a look in to other Tools for ModBot and us.
3D printer guy discover woodworking
It’s a whole new world. 🌎
Bot