I own an Ecotric's bison, This bike is a monster. It goes through most anything and has an awesome suspension to go with the power. The huge tires hum on the street and it's hard not to feel pretty cool when riding it. Love it.
If you want something to go 100 - 200 miles as far battery wise then I’d suggest wait for a better ebike with a much bigger area to apply a 72V battery w/50-70amps. I love the hub motor with not having to switch gears, but the weight difference major, so the improved CYC when it comes out with several thousand watts is probably more preferable.
Or you can start from the base that a 48v 28ah battery is plenty and going 72v may be an overkill. Get the Bafang MG62 with a good quality controller as the phase runner and finally tune it correctly. Running high amp , medium Voltage is a great way to obtain power. You get more torque and less speed, just as electric motors were build for. 48v(54v full) *45A(cont)= 2kw Nominal. Thus a peak power of 48V*90A=4.32Kw. Thats more than enough. That 28ah battery will do the job. batteries are expensive. Cheers.
4th option, cheap: phaserunner (or 48-52v controller) + front DD drive + keep most of the batteries. Selling it is good. Crooked bike has rack to put insane battery + front DD
@@NPLVentures do you lust over high powered bikes for road speed? Acceleration? Dirt trail climbing? For me, more power is mainly acceleration. But DD front gives regen that reduces travel time without brake wear, rpm'd for speed is still bonus torque, and AWD is good for terrain. It is probably a lighter, better value, bike than the ones you lust over. Would be good if you could still use your internal battery space.
Ive been waging war against my ebike for the last three weeks. I had originally thrown together a 48v 1500w ebike that i enjoyed but i wanted more power and ruined what i had originally. But i refuse to give up, i just got the rear swingarm fixed from an accident that snapped part of it and blew up a controller trying to wire up everything at the same time and didnt take the time to properly wire it up. Luckily the motor still works i didnt ruin the hall sensors and I have spare controllers but for a first timer it would be devastating. Not sure how many will read this but if you do please do your research and really make sure all the components of your build are compatible with each other especially if you're adding a display or lights. I burned out a controller and 48v 20ah batteries bms from a simple mistake so dont be like me, take your time or if you're not confident dont be afraid to take it to a shop if you have that option
I got a revv1 which has a geared hub and I plan to go dual motor with a photon or proton if the controller is integrated like the photon. That specifically keeps the bike clean and leaves space for the 2nd battery. If you want to do the upgrade right away the photon isn't a bad choice if you go dual motor cause you have the added power from the hub motor when you need it. Also I don't know if this will work but you could see if it's possible to crack open the original battery and swap it with a custom built pack so you can keep the asthetic.
Have you thought of possibly purchasing the 300NM motor from Biktrix? I don’t know if they’ve started selling it already on its own. It destroys the Bafang Ultra. Unless something comes out soon enough which ebike motors etc are coming out all the time.
You still can install 72volt battery on the very top of the bike but the rest of the battery will rest on the front of your seat ……… and in the market there is 72v battery looks like a motorbike gas tank then will looks so awesome…. And I don’t think you riding the bike sitting that close to the front …… and you can take the other 2 batteries off and use it for storage but you have to make a nice decent looking gate for both up and down …… and good luck
According the bike builders at spark cycle works in Connecticut, it is best to run a 72v ebike on one battery. You shouldn't run double 72v batteries on a battery blender like 48v ebikes do so yes, a 72v system would be better on a revv1 or super73 with all the space they have. Good luck NPL.
What about doing a 52 or 60v, 1500 or 2000 watt front hub motor? Keep the stock battery/motor/controller setup for the rear hub, then add the separate front hub motor, controller, and battery. Could possibly house the new battery on a rear cargo rack of some kind
This attitude limits your options astoundingly. Unfortunately there are almost no ebikes that are good to go completely stock, regardless of price. As an aside, diy is much more enjoyable and (can be) ultimately reliable. Even bafang has shipped entire containers of motors with no glue on the magnets. Often connectors or wires are improperly routed or rated. Any ebike you buy online should honestly be regarded as a kit, preassembled in a rush, and needing a once over. Literally every nut and bolt should be tightened. Etc. Look into it lol
I just finished a build where I made the kit fit a bike it wasn’t designed for. A lot of work and fabrication….spend ten minutes online today to research next build and apply lessons learned. Found an ideal bike in ten minutes that would have been way better overall. I love my build but my biggest take away was start with the right base for what kit you want to build or you get a really fun Frankenstein instead of an eye turning original. Be patient, sell the extra bike you were lucky enough to get, and make the “right” bike. Don’t bitch out and buy factory. Your better than that 😂
This bike reminds me of my my smlro f4 that I'm waiting for in the mail. Its cheaper and has that Enduro style frame kinda lol. But it is 48v aswell. So this was helpful because I'm planning to upgrade to 72 v. Ty
You can't add a front hub motor and just tuck the other controller away then use both stock batteries ? Find a place for the front hub display. Thumb throttle on opposite side for 2 throttles .
I would probably sell. I'm doing a conversion this week with my hard tail Norco MTB. Taking off the 750w bafang mid drive and replacing with 1500w rear direct drive. Will see what the peak power is with 52v20ah triangle battery. Hopefully this with deal with the little more umfff I'm looking for at a cheap cost $530cad delivered. I live in Vancouver where Grin Tech is located and went through a similar option and came up with a $1900 cost for the awesome upgrade from grin. At that point I'd probaly just start from scratch and build my dream bike. peace and thanks for the great video's
Sell! I doubt that even the new CYC will be that much more powerful. Also, you better plan short trips with that 1000wh battery if you decide on that option.
I was confused on why they changed the front frame geometry for their full suspension vs hard tail models. The hard tail model has a much larger center cavity and therefore upgrade friendly.
Sell it! Buy what you want. You know what you want and its out there already. Building a bike has its cool factor but the stock bikes out there turn heads too.
Not just that as a tinkerer who’s put 50cc motors on bikes. Anytime you make an engineered bike do something out of its scope will make it a never ending project. It’s a fun hobby but a even a Walmart e-bike is more reliable than any self made build
I think just sell the bike, you recently talked about getting a Sur Ron or a Sting R and I feel like you should stick with the idea of getting a bike that is not only really good stock but also has clear upgrade paths that aren’t as heavy on the tinkering and often can still look “stock/professional” after applying them.
Hi do I keep or custom the bottom battery could be bigger and also I've done this seperate the forks and reverse the bottom tree gives you hair a inch clearance . If it helps.
Get the new Async e bike.. I almost got the Raev, but waiting for the Async e bike, just better looking faster and longer range for only $1,999 right is a steal for the futuristic look
@@user-oe6gc7mx6h it’s something my friend randomly said when we were playing minecraft, “all that fish do is lick each other other’s moustaches” and I turned that into the username “fishlickmoustaches” 😂
Sell. You know you want to eek out more performance from any bike you're prolly going to buy. Find a bike that either already has those upgrades or has a better path for you to do exactly that. There are a lot of bikes coming out on the market that are similar in the look and style. Also I vaguely remember hearing @MrCentraldriver mention something about a battery builder that can do custom battery builds for unique shapes and sizes. But you';ll have to scrub his videos to find it. Good luck!
I own an Ecotric's bison, This bike is a monster. It goes through most anything and has an awesome suspension to go with the power. The huge tires hum on the street and it's hard not to feel pretty cool when riding it. Love it.
If you want something to go 100 - 200 miles as far battery wise then I’d suggest wait for a better ebike with a much bigger area to apply a 72V battery w/50-70amps. I love the hub motor with not having to switch gears, but the weight difference major, so the improved CYC when it comes out with several thousand watts is probably more preferable.
Or you can start from the base that a 48v 28ah battery is plenty and going 72v may be an overkill. Get the Bafang MG62 with a good quality controller as the phase runner and finally tune it correctly. Running high amp , medium Voltage is a great way to obtain power. You get more torque and less speed, just as electric motors were build for. 48v(54v full) *45A(cont)= 2kw Nominal. Thus a peak power of 48V*90A=4.32Kw. Thats more than enough. That 28ah battery will do the job. batteries are expensive. Cheers.
Electric & Co has a 72volt 20amp mighty mini battery for $899. It would be perfect for that bike. The size is 5"×6"×7
4th option, cheap: phaserunner (or 48-52v controller) + front DD drive + keep most of the batteries. Selling it is good. Crooked bike has rack to put insane battery + front DD
Good points
@@NPLVentures do you lust over high powered bikes for road speed? Acceleration? Dirt trail climbing? For me, more power is mainly acceleration. But DD front gives regen that reduces travel time without brake wear, rpm'd for speed is still bonus torque, and AWD is good for terrain. It is probably a lighter, better value, bike than the ones you lust over. Would be good if you could still use your internal battery space.
Ive been waging war against my ebike for the last three weeks. I had originally thrown together a 48v 1500w ebike that i enjoyed but i wanted more power and ruined what i had originally. But i refuse to give up, i just got the rear swingarm fixed from an accident that snapped part of it and blew up a controller trying to wire up everything at the same time and didnt take the time to properly wire it up. Luckily the motor still works i didnt ruin the hall sensors and I have spare controllers but for a first timer it would be devastating. Not sure how many will read this but if you do please do your research and really make sure all the components of your build are compatible with each other especially if you're adding a display or lights. I burned out a controller and 48v 20ah batteries bms from a simple mistake so dont be like me, take your time or if you're not confident dont be afraid to take it to a shop if you have that option
I got a revv1 which has a geared hub and I plan to go dual motor with a photon or proton if the controller is integrated like the photon. That specifically keeps the bike clean and leaves space for the 2nd battery. If you want to do the upgrade right away the photon isn't a bad choice if you go dual motor cause you have the added power from the hub motor when you need it. Also I don't know if this will work but you could see if it's possible to crack open the original battery and swap it with a custom built pack so you can keep the asthetic.
Have you thought of possibly purchasing the 300NM motor from Biktrix? I don’t know if they’ve started selling it already on its own. It destroys the Bafang Ultra. Unless something comes out soon enough which ebike motors etc are coming out all the time.
You could use the Bafang BBshd and the BAC controller and push 3000--5000 watts safely and easily, that is what I have done a few times now...
This E-Bike looks really cool. Great Video
You still can install 72volt battery on the very top of the bike but the rest of the battery will rest on the front of your seat ……… and in the market there is 72v battery looks like a motorbike gas tank then will looks so awesome…. And I don’t think you riding the bike sitting that close to the front …… and you can take the other 2 batteries off and use it for storage but you have to make a nice decent looking gate for both up and down …… and good luck
I would take apart the original battery cases and build a better battery in the same case.
I think you should go with a whole new kit and wire your lights up to a power supply off the new controller
Can I just borrow one of yours? Lol I know I'm local 😂
According the bike builders at spark cycle works in Connecticut, it is best to run a 72v ebike on one battery. You shouldn't run double 72v batteries on a battery blender like 48v ebikes do so yes, a 72v system would be better on a revv1 or super73 with all the space they have. Good luck NPL.
What about doing a 52 or 60v, 1500 or 2000 watt front hub motor? Keep the stock battery/motor/controller setup for the rear hub, then add the separate front hub motor, controller, and battery. Could possibly house the new battery on a rear cargo rack of some kind
the stock battery is 48, so at that point, I think the play would to upgrade the motor to a 2000w, but if you did that you would need a new controller
I would just sell and save for something more powerful so you don’t have to go through the trouble of upgrading.
This attitude limits your options astoundingly. Unfortunately there are almost no ebikes that are good to go completely stock, regardless of price. As an aside, diy is much more enjoyable and (can be) ultimately reliable. Even bafang has shipped entire containers of motors with no glue on the magnets. Often connectors or wires are improperly routed or rated. Any ebike you buy online should honestly be regarded as a kit, preassembled in a rush, and needing a once over. Literally every nut and bolt should be tightened. Etc. Look into it lol
I got the cyc pro gen 3 with a 72v battery its 3,500w
I just finished a build where I made the kit fit a bike it wasn’t designed for. A lot of work and fabrication….spend ten minutes online today to research next build and apply lessons learned. Found an ideal bike in ten minutes that would have been way better overall. I love my build but my biggest take away was start with the right base for what kit you want to build or you get a really fun Frankenstein instead of an eye turning original. Be patient, sell the extra bike you were lucky enough to get, and make the “right” bike. Don’t bitch out and buy factory. Your better than that 😂
Honestly at the price of components, u can build a monster e bike with a cheap handa cb750 frame💯
Keep the bike stock. Do some studies on how to Do metal work, bending/welding and im sure you’LL love to uppgrade it with ur new knowledge
I'd definitely put a kelly controller under the seat and change for a 3kw qs motor and a 3kwh battery and a 100A discharge bms at least
I know it's late but you could have made the seat into a Cafe Racer with a higher cowl to hide the controller and battery. That would be clean as.
This bike reminds me of my my smlro f4 that I'm waiting for in the mail. Its cheaper and has that Enduro style frame kinda lol. But it is 48v aswell. So this was helpful because I'm planning to upgrade to 72 v. Ty
Sick channel bruh
You can't add a front hub motor and just tuck the other controller away then use both stock batteries ? Find a place for the front hub display. Thumb throttle on opposite side for 2 throttles .
You can go with Powerful Lithium for your battery. They can build you a battery to fit the bike.
Re-lube your motors it comes often to dry from the fabrikk. (Syntetisk grease)
I would probably sell. I'm doing a conversion this week with my hard tail Norco MTB. Taking off the 750w bafang mid drive and replacing with 1500w rear direct drive. Will see what the peak power is with 52v20ah triangle battery. Hopefully this with deal with the little more umfff I'm looking for at a cheap cost $530cad delivered. I live in Vancouver where Grin Tech is located and went through a similar option and came up with a $1900 cost for the awesome upgrade from grin. At that point I'd probaly just start from scratch and build my dream bike. peace and thanks for the great video's
It's a nice frame paint it to your liking then go 72V and DD hub be fast as fooo
Sell! I doubt that even the new CYC will be that much more powerful. Also, you better plan short trips with that 1000wh battery if you decide on that option.
1000wh with an efficient motor will do 20 to 30 miles range..
@@slimdunkin117 Not at the speed available with 72V.
@@bobbybecker80 it’s a 750w motor. What speed is available?……………
If I get a bike that comes with a 1000 watt motor, and I uograde the voltage and amp hours will I need a new motor?
Following
I was confused on why they changed the front frame geometry for their full suspension vs hard tail models. The hard tail model has a much larger center cavity and therefore upgrade friendly.
What’s the best budget e bike if I don’t plan on riding too frequently but need more range? My work commute is 15 mi ~ 30 mins from my house.
I agree I've done r
I would say the phase runner set up like on your other bike.
Sell it! Buy what you want. You know what you want and its out there already. Building a bike has its cool factor but the stock bikes out there turn heads too.
Not just that as a tinkerer who’s put 50cc motors on bikes. Anytime you make an engineered bike do something out of its scope will make it a never ending project. It’s a fun hobby but a even a Walmart e-bike is more reliable than any self made build
You should be able to fit the controller under the seat, no?
I have the Bullet & it's a pretty large area under there
Option ✌️
That Photon isn't compatible with a 72v battery but the Gen 1 which is cheaper in price last I checked is more powerful
Make a cover in triangle battery area
Man I say go for option b or cyc. I just bought this bike. I want to crank it up too and was wondering if a cyc x1 pro would fit.
I watched a video, and someone paired a cyc with a BBSHD With a 52v battery and that bike flew 😊
A cyc controller?
Pair bbshd with a72v battery and bac855 controller and it'll fly.
What would you do to a freego f2 pro to get more torque out of it
And the pouch cells batteries are cheaper I think they start at 400 with charger
You should start making shorts to increase your sub count , just clip up the videos
I really should
I will work, but I just won't watch them.
I think just sell the bike, you recently talked about getting a Sur Ron or a Sting R and I feel like you should stick with the idea of getting a bike that is not only really good stock but also has clear upgrade paths that aren’t as heavy on the tinkering and often can still look “stock/professional” after applying them.
I'd say at this point sell both bikes and go custom and make it better.
On the CrookedPath, would the V6 controller fit inside the frame where the original controller went?
Hi do I keep or custom the bottom battery could be bigger and also I've done this seperate the forks and reverse the bottom tree gives you hair a inch clearance . If it helps.
Put the battery in your Bookbag
You should just sell it! It looks like your going to be putting more money in that bike upgrading it than what your getting back
Why is the chain and freewheel rusty on a two week old bike?
why you want 72v so much? i think 60v should be really good unless you want to pop wheelys like nothing
Put the controller under the seat
Get the new Async e bike.. I almost got the Raev, but waiting for the Async e bike, just better looking faster and longer range for only $1,999 right is a steal for the futuristic look
Get 2, 36 volt batteries and run in series . ?
Sounds like you need to invest in a 3D printer so you can make your own battery housings and misc specialty parts.
Put a new controller on it then change thee battery
Just get 3000watt hub motor
sel it that is not a bike to be moded like the C3strom if you are buying it with the intention to mod it not a good idea
Sell the bike and use the money towards something you will be HAPPY with bone stock. No surprises/headaches down the road. BOOM!
He’s a tinkerer. He’ll get bored of stock either way even if the performance is good
Good luck finding a bone stock bike that is 72v
You don’t understand tuning culture. I come from the car community lol
@@fishlickmustaches8088😮I come from the car community wtf is that username😢😐
@@user-oe6gc7mx6h it’s something my friend randomly said when we were playing minecraft, “all that fish do is lick each other other’s moustaches” and I turned that into the username “fishlickmoustaches” 😂
Sell. You know you want to eek out more performance from any bike you're prolly going to buy. Find a bike that either already has those upgrades or has a better path for you to do exactly that. There are a lot of bikes coming out on the market that are similar in the look and style. Also I vaguely remember hearing @MrCentraldriver mention something about a battery builder that can do custom battery builds for unique shapes and sizes. But you';ll have to scrub his videos to find it. Good luck!
Choice 4 sell
1:38 Front fork is backward 🤨
Reverse arch
Ill buy it for 1500
Well 2 expensive
Sale
Sell it it's not a great bike rear suspension almost junk and can't change the seat to a suspension seat post because it's a moped bike.
Sell it...👍🏾
Sell it
Sell
Sell it.
get better bike