Hehe, I wanted to report the Deja Vu when I noticed the comment here. I would appreciate another 2-3 minutes where you would show the fixed device and have some final words on the repair.
@@marcellipovsky8222 I have to spend a couple hours probably finding where else the glue may be so I can remove it before it causes problems, and there are also two 1 Amp fuses to change for the correct ones. I thought all the interesting points had been covered already but I can post an update once it is finished, and if there are more problems there will be a part three, If you watched part one you will know the protect fault goes away on both channels once the +80V is disconnected from the low resistance so all should be good.
@@LearnElectronicsRepair I am watching almost everything. Only the car boot sales are not that interesting to me. Done my share with such machines back in the day. 😁
Good job . I have found this brown gunk in many amps .in a NAD 3020 I initially thought it was capacitor leakage but no , just glue .on removal , all good . ( did recap anyway) It’s possible that you may have suspected this without a schematic but great video 👏
I think it is essential to explain how a transistor behave in Switching region and Active region accompanied with Saturation to understand how it works as an amplifier. If you spend some time to explain that everyone will be pleased.
Very interesting and surprising cause! What was the purpose of the glue? I can't see why they put it there. Also was there any advice in the tech manual you donloaded as to what to check in the event of the protection LEDS coming on ?
Looks like a class AB with a cascade output. Giving the sound quality of the class A but giving better energy efficiency of a standard A or B since only 2 transistors are actually on with no input and others are fully off.
@@LearnElectronicsRepair no problem. It just seems that you explained the process twice regarding the transistors coming on due to the resistor chaining. Take a look and confirm if that Is indeed the case.
Heya, oh yes this kind of stuf makes my mouth drool. can't wait for P3 with the 80 volt rps. oh yes 1 question, I see some new components in those schematics could you tel what they are and fysicly show that component on the pcb ( like that removeble transistor ).
Interesting amplifier. Appriciate it how you explain it. Have you or can you explain diode mode on a ie fluke? I don't understand why you measure it in reverse by connecting the plus or red pin to ground. Cheers!
I hope I was correct on the amplifier circuit explanation. It's just how I 'see' it looking at the schematic. I'm not an audio repair expert or specialist, I just know how to fix them, generally.
Nahh, I think it is just the glue that passed it's sell by date. Give me a bit more time to remove the rest of it from wherever else I find it and all will be good. As an aside I also expect this amplifier will have a far richer and more dynamic sound than any modern Class D amp. I'm sure the owner will love to have it back. Discuss.
@@LearnElectronicsRepair I'm sure you can fix it. The artifacts we make today are not designed to last for very long though. There is a dark side to mass production too. The assembly line devalues individual craftsmanship.
I've been trying to get the schematic for an Amana/Whirlpool washer that I am attempting to fix. Where in the world does one go to obtain those? I'm googled out of options. Any help is appreciated. Amana Washing machine MODEL# NTW4516FW3 Control board P/N-W10857313
*Sorry guys. You Don't have De Ja Vu. I messed up the edit on this video. There a segment that starts around **21:12** repeated again around **25:35*
Beginning to wonder if I had Alzeheimers sneaking in ! :-)
@@vaccarioou22 Nahhh... if you did then you would have already forgot you had see that part before 🤐
Hehe, I wanted to report the Deja Vu when I noticed the comment here. I would appreciate another 2-3 minutes where you would show the fixed device and have some final words on the repair.
@@marcellipovsky8222 I have to spend a couple hours probably finding where else the glue may be so I can remove it before it causes problems, and there are also two 1 Amp fuses to change for the correct ones.
I thought all the interesting points had been covered already but I can post an update once it is finished, and if there are more problems there will be a part three, If you watched part one you will know the protect fault goes away on both channels once the +80V is disconnected from the low resistance so all should be good.
@@LearnElectronicsRepair I am watching almost everything. Only the car boot sales are not that interesting to me. Done my share with such machines back in the day. 😁
Glad to see the mouse change!! It works great and even better than the yellow circle! Cheers!
Part 2 well worth the wait 👍
The Quincy of electronic repair.
There should be a component symbol for the glue and it should be present on the schematics. This would facilitate the diagnostic! 😊
Wow, as Get Smart would say.The old glue trick. I didn't see that one coming.
Thank You Richard for the interesting investigation! It was very interesting , especialy at the second part of the video.
Thanks for the red pointer so much easier to follow. Interesting problem and you had it figured out looking at the diagram good work
Interesting couple of videos. Good find!☺
Thanks for changing the pointer Dave H
Very fascinating and satisfying learning from your channel. I'm happy to carry the "L" plate on my back when watching your videos. 👍🏼🇦🇺
Thanks Dicky, I thought I was going mad, keep ‘em coming mate 🤙🏼🇦🇺
Joe from Australia 🤙🏼🇦🇺
Great! thanks.
Awesome stuff !!.....cheers.
Good job . I have found this brown gunk in many amps .in a NAD 3020 I initially thought it was capacitor leakage but no , just glue .on removal , all good . ( did recap anyway)
It’s possible that you may have suspected this without a schematic but great video 👏
Possibly but it would have been a long winded difficult repair especially as the amp isn't easy to dismantle so you can see everything.
I think it is essential to explain how a transistor behave in Switching region and Active region accompanied with Saturation to understand how it works as an amplifier. If you spend some time to explain that everyone will be pleased.
Well diagnosed. I reckon a lower voltage rail (12V) may not have caused the glue to breakdown
I totally agree
Also the face that it's DC won't help!
awesome
Very interesting and surprising cause!
What was the purpose of the glue? I can't see why they put it there.
Also was there any advice in the tech manual you donloaded as to what to check in the event of the protection LEDS coming on ?
Looks like a class AB with a cascade output. Giving the sound quality of the class A but giving better energy efficiency of a standard A or B since only 2 transistors are actually on with no input and others are fully off.
Richard, will you be replacing all similar caps and will you use a silicon 'glue' or just clean and silicon glue?
Is it me or is there a segment that starts approximately around 21:12 repeated again around the 25:35 or so?
Sorry if I messed up the edit, I haven't done that for a while
@@LearnElectronicsRepair no problem. It just seems that you explained the process twice regarding the transistors coming on due to the resistor chaining. Take a look and confirm if that Is indeed the case.
Heya, oh yes this kind of stuf makes my mouth drool. can't wait for P3 with the 80 volt rps. oh yes 1 question, I see some new components in those schematics could you tel what they are and fysicly show that component on the pcb ( like that removeble transistor ).
Interesting circuit for outputs . Looks like first transistor is class AB and rest are class B . I wonder what the wave form looks like 🤔
Yeah, that sounds like a good description.🙂
Dear Sir, will you explain how IC 301 detect DC from AC path, Speaker short cct, and Pop noise trancients from power switch to mute for some seconds.
Dont mind the long videos it gives me, who knows only the basics, time to catch up. Also learned a lot regarding detailed operation of circuits.
Interesting amplifier. Appriciate it how you explain it.
Have you or can you explain diode mode on a ie fluke? I don't understand why you measure it in reverse by connecting the plus or red pin to ground. Cheers!
I hope I was correct on the amplifier circuit explanation. It's just how I 'see' it looking at the schematic. I'm not an audio repair expert or specialist, I just know how to fix them, generally.
Do you mean when I was testing the bridge rectifier?
@@LearnElectronicsRepair no when testing the power supplies on a motherboard
40 year old booby traps.
Thanks for doing what you does.
That hardware has reached end of life.
Nahh, I think it is just the glue that passed it's sell by date. Give me a bit more time to remove the rest of it from wherever else I find it and all will be good. As an aside I also expect this amplifier will have a far richer and more dynamic sound than any modern Class D amp. I'm sure the owner will love to have it back. Discuss.
@@LearnElectronicsRepair I'm sure you can fix it. The artifacts we make today are not designed to last for very long though. There is a dark side to mass production too. The assembly line devalues individual craftsmanship.
I've been trying to get the schematic for an Amana/Whirlpool washer that I am attempting to fix. Where in the world does one go to obtain those? I'm googled out of options. Any help is appreciated. Amana Washing machine MODEL# NTW4516FW3 Control board P/N-W10857313