I feel like something that possibly could've been mentioned is the fact the KE costs nearly £600 less than the printer it's being compared to at £300 vs £870
@@IdiotCraftMan Here its €249 vs €846. So 3.4x more.... But whit simple enclosure and and camera that the p1s allready have its around x3 here. If i would buy the p1s then i also want the AMS. And still need all the filament and stuff. Prices gets a lot for first 3d printer. But if money is not a problem offcourse the p1s is better. But thats whit everything. then carbon is better then the p1s and so further.
@@TheKing-pf9hw Well you need the filament for any printer. I think the Ender 3 v3 series can be a great Beginner printer, but I personally feel that it is much more worthwhile to save up for the Bambu, or go with one of their cheaper options. The a1 mini is a phenomenal little machine, at quite an affordable price.
All extruders pull the filament in the same way. The extruder cannot twist the filament as it pulls it in. Either the filament was wound already twisted or you accidentally twisted it as you fed it into the extruder mechanism. I print with tri color filament all the time and it comes out as it should when printed so that is no fault of the KE (I have the lower end SE). That being said, I paid $99 for my SE as have many others through Creality Certified Refurbished deals, and it prints beautifully and fast if you actually change the speed settings. Depending on the complexity of the model, you can set it at 250mm per second and it flies with great quality. The KE easily outperforms it so I would try your tests again with higher speed settings as opposed to the default slicer settings and see what the differences are, but thanks for the video. It was fun to watch and will stick around for more!
I had numerous issues with my KE since it had a very bent backplate. They replaced it but by then I had multiple blob explosions which ruined the hot end. They offered to replace it, but I decided to exchange it for a V3 Core XZ because it looked like it improved upon all the weaknesses is saw in the KE. The build quality seemed fine and the few prints were great, however again... Kept knocking prints off, set z-axis way too low, horrible stringing, scaring on the first layer, issues with overhangs, and again multiple blobs of death. If they want to send me a free one, I'm I'll give them another try, however I think I'm moving onto a new brand.
I really appreciated this. I've had an original Ender 3 for 4 years. Had a lot of fun with it (just a hobbyist), but struggling with it more lately and thinking I should upgrade. Trying to decide whether to spend more for something like the Bambu that requires less tweaking or just get a newer Ender 3 like the KE. Still not sure, but your video was helpful.
I have the KE. I couldn't use it for months because of the slicer. I'm a novice user...I can make adjustments in the slicer and go so far as to adjust the gantry because enders, while semi-assembled, aren't level out of the box, but I have to google what settings in Cura accomplish what I want and to even seek out step by step tutorials on youtube to assemble the machine when it arrives. My s1 pro, first printer I had, worked great for about 6 months and then between filament changes suddenly stopped printing the same file that I print nearly every filament with well (looked like over extrusion but no amount of tinkering accomplished any forward progress) and I was on the verge of giving up on 3d printing entirely because I felt like I was spinning my wheels. It printed things without a large solid area in the center well, but that one file I needed to print well just wouldn't. When I stumbled upon the same deal that keeps repeating for the KE around the new year, I decided that I'd invested way too much in filament to just throw in the towel on 3d printing because even new in plastic, I wasn't going to get my money back on those spools if I sold them. When I got it, I learned there was no slicer profile for it in Cura due to Klipper (and I still have no idea what Klipper even is...as in how is it better than Marlin, what does it do that Marlin can't...I just don't understand that part of the 3d printing world BECAUSE it has become a more accessible hobby, so not everyone needs to know how to build one from nothing, but I can make simple models in tinkerkad and slice things with success) and the slicing in Creality Print on that one file I keep mentioning was wrong when I tried it...the slice was just awful. Where it should have been a solid layer, it was printing them like the spaced out lines several layers above but like 6 of them instead of the two .2 rows they should be...it was deterring because there weren't any user made profiles available to get it to work (but man did it print that preloaded benchy so well). Eventually, I found a Cura profile to manually adjust on youtube and it worked meh, but I could FINALLY print SOMETHING even if it was not up to my standards and then just last week my Mom asked me about trying to print dragons, so I gave it another shot and found another profile (something printer bee) that is actually pretty good with some adjustments. My one constant in all of this is that my initial layers don't attach to the walls on the KE by default and then I finally found a Cura setting to overlap that and it reduced that problem significantly...still not perfect, but manageable. I was finally, after 6 months with the KE, willing to give that one file a 2nd go last night and it is actually usable, but still not as good as my s1 pro was originally printing it, but something like 98% of the way there. I hadn't been able to print that file in a year as it was late May to early June when my s1 pro was starting to give me issues. I'm the novice 3d printer that HATES the tinkering of the machine and when I do try because I have to solve a problem, I almost always end up breaking something. I'd rather fiddle with settings ALL DAY LONG than have to adjust the printer itself. I almost broke my Sprite on my s1 pro on my first nozzle change because I have no idea what the right pressure is so I was over or under-doing it and both caused more problems. I know I can use the KE in orca as there is a default profile for it there, but I again am a novice and don't know WHERE to get it or how to learn it (github, but what is that?! lol). To sum this ramble, the KE is not made for beginners who don't understand the background stuff because Creality Print is not good. Creality releases stuff the way video games are put out to market now...halfway there with promises to build upon it, but instead, all they do is go onto the next project and never fulfill their promises...as such, Creality Print is useless. All I hear about the Bambu Labs printers (other than the fire hazard with the bed slingers upon release) is how easy they are for beginners compared to the tinkering you have to learn to accept with Creality and that their customer service may be a bit slow, but it actually exists and is pretty great compared to what you'd normally expect from 3d printing brands. But then with Bambu, their user base is INSANELY toxic and unwelcoming to those who haven't been in the 3d printing world since you had to assemble the Ender 3 like lego, so while it is more beginner friendly, the beginners aren't welcomed by the diehards. Any questions you may have, while easy to experienced users, are mocked and made fun of at worst or responded to 'go look on youtube' at best. Collectively, they look down on people and that makes the brand look REALLY bad.
My full experience with the KE is that i ran it too hard, and pushed it past its limits in under a month. I ended up returning it, because the whole extruder got clogged or broken or something, and i just didn’t feel like messing with it. That being said, i feel like they try to make the slicer point and click, and not give the user too many options. While it was by no means my favorite slicer, i felt like it would be decent for someone to dip their tires in the water with. I do agree that a lot of bambu owners tend to be more on the hostile side, but from my experience, it has a lot to do with the “purists” giving them flak for having a machine that “just works”. I’ve seen several pages dedicated specifically for bambu users, because if you have a question and you own a bambu, people get very rude. I think we all sometimes need to take a step back, and just help people.
KE print got layer shift problem because of creality print slicer, use orca slicer will solve the problem, and also prnting quality will improve also with using orca slicer
Pei is an easy and i think necessary upgrade. I did get a cr touch to add to my Ender, but it started falling apart and being completely non functional before i could install it.
My creality KE was 259 and it is working great. Is it as good as a P1S? Obvious answer is no but it cost me about a third as much amd at 500mm, it is not slow.
This is a bad comparison.. you are comparing a bed slinger to a core xy printer. Of course the core xy is faster with better quality. It's a core xy. It's also way more expensive. Compare the P1S with the k1 at least they are the same stye printer and in the same price range.
The point of this is more “do i need to spend $800” to get a decent 3d print. It’s not about a complete direct comparison. It’s, can this intro printer do some things a much more expensive printer can, and can the quality compete. My aim was to answer some basic questions for people who maybe don’t know a lot about 3d printing.
Funny Here in NL @ ke cost you €249. @ p1S €846. So whe are comparing @ bambulab that cost x3.5.......... Think that says more about how good the ke is that we are even comparing..... I thit buy the ke and whas in for a p1S even looked at the carbon. But hey do i like it and its a new hobby or just yousing it few times? Then i selected all the things you want whit it like filament extra nozzle and stuff and price ryces... So thit go whit the Ender ke for my first printer. Offcourse the p1s is better... But i will youse for my rc hobby, tools and that kind off stuff. Now i thit make a enclosure for €40 Because gonna print Nylon.. And got @ nebula camera for €25. So for around 1/3 off the price you got allmost the same. But still a bambulab is better but i like my ke. Its just a good starting printer. Its not the end mebe i like it so much the replace for the p1s the p2s comes out and then switch or mebe this is enough. But for the money you cant go wrong whit the ke.
I feel like something that possibly could've been mentioned is the fact the KE costs nearly £600 less than the printer it's being compared to at £300 vs £870
I did mention near the end that the bambu is nearly 3x as much
@@IdiotCraftMan Here its €249 vs €846. So 3.4x more.... But whit simple enclosure and and camera that the p1s allready have its around x3 here. If i would buy the p1s then i also want the AMS. And still need all the filament and stuff. Prices gets a lot for first 3d printer. But if money is not a problem offcourse the p1s is better. But thats whit everything. then carbon is better then the p1s and so further.
@@TheKing-pf9hw Well you need the filament for any printer. I think the Ender 3 v3 series can be a great Beginner printer, but I personally feel that it is much more worthwhile to save up for the Bambu, or go with one of their cheaper options. The a1 mini is a phenomenal little machine, at quite an affordable price.
All extruders pull the filament in the same way. The extruder cannot twist the filament as it pulls it in. Either the filament was wound already twisted or you accidentally twisted it as you fed it into the extruder mechanism. I print with tri color filament all the time and it comes out as it should when printed so that is no fault of the KE (I have the lower end SE). That being said, I paid $99 for my SE as have many others through Creality Certified Refurbished deals, and it prints beautifully and fast if you actually change the speed settings. Depending on the complexity of the model, you can set it at 250mm per second and it flies with great quality. The KE easily outperforms it so I would try your tests again with higher speed settings as opposed to the default slicer settings and see what the differences are, but thanks for the video. It was fun to watch and will stick around for more!
I had numerous issues with my KE since it had a very bent backplate. They replaced it but by then I had multiple blob explosions which ruined the hot end. They offered to replace it, but I decided to exchange it for a V3 Core XZ because it looked like it improved upon all the weaknesses is saw in the KE. The build quality seemed fine and the few prints were great, however again... Kept knocking prints off, set z-axis way too low, horrible stringing, scaring on the first layer, issues with overhangs, and again multiple blobs of death. If they want to send me a free one, I'm I'll give them another try, however I think I'm moving onto a new brand.
First week, my KE ran fine, but I’m already seeing issues pop up with it.
I really appreciated this. I've had an original Ender 3 for 4 years. Had a lot of fun with it (just a hobbyist), but struggling with it more lately and thinking I should upgrade. Trying to decide whether to spend more for something like the Bambu that requires less tweaking or just get a newer Ender 3 like the KE. Still not sure, but your video was helpful.
Thanks, this was exactly the comparison I was looking for... I think I'll stretch my budget for the P1S 🙂
I have the KE. I couldn't use it for months because of the slicer. I'm a novice user...I can make adjustments in the slicer and go so far as to adjust the gantry because enders, while semi-assembled, aren't level out of the box, but I have to google what settings in Cura accomplish what I want and to even seek out step by step tutorials on youtube to assemble the machine when it arrives. My s1 pro, first printer I had, worked great for about 6 months and then between filament changes suddenly stopped printing the same file that I print nearly every filament with well (looked like over extrusion but no amount of tinkering accomplished any forward progress) and I was on the verge of giving up on 3d printing entirely because I felt like I was spinning my wheels. It printed things without a large solid area in the center well, but that one file I needed to print well just wouldn't. When I stumbled upon the same deal that keeps repeating for the KE around the new year, I decided that I'd invested way too much in filament to just throw in the towel on 3d printing because even new in plastic, I wasn't going to get my money back on those spools if I sold them. When I got it, I learned there was no slicer profile for it in Cura due to Klipper (and I still have no idea what Klipper even is...as in how is it better than Marlin, what does it do that Marlin can't...I just don't understand that part of the 3d printing world BECAUSE it has become a more accessible hobby, so not everyone needs to know how to build one from nothing, but I can make simple models in tinkerkad and slice things with success) and the slicing in Creality Print on that one file I keep mentioning was wrong when I tried it...the slice was just awful. Where it should have been a solid layer, it was printing them like the spaced out lines several layers above but like 6 of them instead of the two .2 rows they should be...it was deterring because there weren't any user made profiles available to get it to work (but man did it print that preloaded benchy so well). Eventually, I found a Cura profile to manually adjust on youtube and it worked meh, but I could FINALLY print SOMETHING even if it was not up to my standards and then just last week my Mom asked me about trying to print dragons, so I gave it another shot and found another profile (something printer bee) that is actually pretty good with some adjustments. My one constant in all of this is that my initial layers don't attach to the walls on the KE by default and then I finally found a Cura setting to overlap that and it reduced that problem significantly...still not perfect, but manageable. I was finally, after 6 months with the KE, willing to give that one file a 2nd go last night and it is actually usable, but still not as good as my s1 pro was originally printing it, but something like 98% of the way there. I hadn't been able to print that file in a year as it was late May to early June when my s1 pro was starting to give me issues. I'm the novice 3d printer that HATES the tinkering of the machine and when I do try because I have to solve a problem, I almost always end up breaking something. I'd rather fiddle with settings ALL DAY LONG than have to adjust the printer itself. I almost broke my Sprite on my s1 pro on my first nozzle change because I have no idea what the right pressure is so I was over or under-doing it and both caused more problems. I know I can use the KE in orca as there is a default profile for it there, but I again am a novice and don't know WHERE to get it or how to learn it (github, but what is that?! lol). To sum this ramble, the KE is not made for beginners who don't understand the background stuff because Creality Print is not good. Creality releases stuff the way video games are put out to market now...halfway there with promises to build upon it, but instead, all they do is go onto the next project and never fulfill their promises...as such, Creality Print is useless.
All I hear about the Bambu Labs printers (other than the fire hazard with the bed slingers upon release) is how easy they are for beginners compared to the tinkering you have to learn to accept with Creality and that their customer service may be a bit slow, but it actually exists and is pretty great compared to what you'd normally expect from 3d printing brands. But then with Bambu, their user base is INSANELY toxic and unwelcoming to those who haven't been in the 3d printing world since you had to assemble the Ender 3 like lego, so while it is more beginner friendly, the beginners aren't welcomed by the diehards. Any questions you may have, while easy to experienced users, are mocked and made fun of at worst or responded to 'go look on youtube' at best. Collectively, they look down on people and that makes the brand look REALLY bad.
My full experience with the KE is that i ran it too hard, and pushed it past its limits in under a month. I ended up returning it, because the whole extruder got clogged or broken or something, and i just didn’t feel like messing with it. That being said, i feel like they try to make the slicer point and click, and not give the user too many options. While it was by no means my favorite slicer, i felt like it would be decent for someone to dip their tires in the water with.
I do agree that a lot of bambu owners tend to be more on the hostile side, but from my experience, it has a lot to do with the “purists” giving them flak for having a machine that “just works”. I’ve seen several pages dedicated specifically for bambu users, because if you have a question and you own a bambu, people get very rude. I think we all sometimes need to take a step back, and just help people.
KE print got layer shift problem because of creality print slicer, use orca slicer will solve the problem, and also prnting quality will improve also with using orca slicer
Do they have the settings for the ke in orca, or do you have to manually program it? I thought i had orca set up on my computer, but alas, i do not.
@@IdiotCraftMan orca slicer V2 got V3 KE setting
@@Kaiei3D i found it. Testing right now.
@@IdiotCraftMan What are the results?
I don't understand what's so hard to add a CR Touch to an Ender 3 and replace the heavy glass bed for a magnetic PEI flex sheet?
Pei is an easy and i think necessary upgrade. I did get a cr touch to add to my Ender, but it started falling apart and being completely non functional before i could install it.
My creality KE was 259 and it is working great. Is it as good as a P1S? Obvious answer is no but it cost me about a third as much amd at 500mm, it is not slow.
So long as it fits your needs, thats what counts!
This is a bad comparison.. you are comparing a bed slinger to a core xy printer. Of course the core xy is faster with better quality. It's a core xy. It's also way more expensive. Compare the P1S with the k1 at least they are the same stye printer and in the same price range.
The point of this is more “do i need to spend $800” to get a decent 3d print. It’s not about a complete direct comparison. It’s, can this intro printer do some things a much more expensive printer can, and can the quality compete. My aim was to answer some basic questions for people who maybe don’t know a lot about 3d printing.
Funny Here in NL @ ke cost you €249. @ p1S €846. So whe are comparing @ bambulab that cost x3.5.......... Think that says more about how good the ke is that we are even comparing..... I thit buy the ke and whas in for a p1S even looked at the carbon. But hey do i like it and its a new hobby or just yousing it few times? Then i selected all the things you want whit it like filament extra nozzle and stuff and price ryces... So thit go whit the Ender ke for my first printer. Offcourse the p1s is better... But i will youse for my rc hobby, tools and that kind off stuff. Now i thit make a enclosure for €40 Because gonna print Nylon..
And got @ nebula camera for €25. So for around 1/3 off the price you got allmost the same.
But still a bambulab is better but i like my ke. Its just a good starting printer. Its not the end mebe i like it so much the replace for the p1s the p2s comes out and then switch or mebe this is enough. But for the money you cant go wrong whit the ke.