actually, this is how we formerly trained our SAR Dogs - and it worked fantastically ! competitive games with a lot of hunting elements are fantastic. and on higher level you even can train to interrupt it and continue (pause and go). this creates a high impulse control and fantastic obedience. because later you can use the pause to give another command and even later pause and recall when the dog is hunting anything.
I had my Rhodesian Ridgeback on a short leash from 8 weeks... Quick corrections at all times. He's so chill as an adult. Get a house line folks ! It's the way forward!
The best and easiest way to train is to totally engage with your pet. Make him or her want to please you. Continuously train them even when in the house relaxing. Get them to sit, stay & come when called. When you see bad behaviour, distract them by becoming the most fun entertaining thing. Be consistent!
Hi I am called the Master Matriarch from Master Matriarch's K9s. I have 8 rescue dogs of my own and I have a YT channel by the same name. I have been training since 1969, I have seen many kinds of training but not much true understanding of how dogs function. Finding you here is a rare gem. You are truly a breath of fresh air. Keep up the good work.
Victoria Stilwell does a similar thing, but she does use food & emphasizes that you have to stop the reactivity BEFORE it starts on a consistent basis---which makes sense in terms of the adrenaline rush---you prevent it from happening so you can use commands & treats before the adrenaline blocks their value. That obviously can't happen every time, but I'm thinking if it happens enough, the dog associates the aggression trigger with the food/toy. Good explanation of the mechanism of reactivity.
Your video is most helpful. I am 70 years old and have a Staffy. I socialised her completely when she was 4 months onwards.... as you mentioned, yep she got super excited when she sees other dogs or dogs/owners she knows. To her detriment, she got badly attacked by another dog several months ago. Today, I am scared as she weighs more than I do and I hardly can pull her back when she lunges. I have stopped taking her out for long walks. Any advise from you would be most helpful. I am just living on a pension and cannot afford all the expensive training.
Good for socializing her! Resume the socialization, but only with dogs that she knows and likes to play with, to minimize any mental damage from the attack. At the same time, walk her everyday in a place with distractions, if possible. And, teach her to look at your tongue or make a repeatable noise [not a word, but a 'meaningless' sound] : Make the noise when you are relaxing, and when she looks at you, toss her a treat. Then, ignore her until she looks away, then make the sound & treat. Repeat for about 10 minutes, a few times a day for a week or less. Once she learns to look at you after the noise, always give her the treat. Don't 'lure' or 'bribe' her with the treat - only provide it when she looks at you. If you want, you may 'randomly' give her a treat when she looks at you, even though you didn't make the noise. Now, when you take her for a walk and you approach a potentially reactive distraction, before she has a chance to react, click your tongue so that she is looking at you, and give her the treat, as you pass the distraction. It'll take some practice, but you should get it in a week, and within a month, she should be a bit more controllable under 'predictable' circumstances. Unpredicted encounters may take a few months to reduce lunging.
@@aliceloke2679 I hope you understood... lots of typos on my part... Not "look at your tongue" but Look at you when you click your tongue... Or make some repeatable noise. [Sorry ;-) ]
If you guys watch the whole video, you should still use prong collars, slip leads, treats, whatever you use that works on your walk. The big point is that you don’t tire your dog out enough and you don’t make them look forward to playing/competition with you instead of with anything else it encounters on your walks. A tired dog is a well behaved dog. Yes they may still want to react when they see something on their walks but it will make a world of difference if you already had an intense play session or 2 before your walk. No, playing with your dog doesn’t fix reactivity. Keep using corrections and rewards on walks but play with your dog more don’t make it complicated
Damn it looks like I naturally know how to do those things with dogs and now when I see your professional techniques I am finally feeling so confident with continuing that beautiful journey. Thank you for your service!!! I will definitely keep fallowing you and learning . Having a Rottweiler after having small dogs is a little challenging but it looks with your help we can make it pretty easy;) best regards from Japan
This is SO true! Excellent advice! Just be careful if you have a fragile little thing like my Whippet, or a really heavy dog. She went so nuts for the tug toy reward that she tore her ACL. So for the time being its back to doing turn ins and shoving treats in her face when she remains neutral 😩 The toy and play is definitely #1
This sounds all well and good for some types of aggression. But what about handler aggression? Competitive play needs to be back tied first but even that can still not fix the problem. Thoughts?
I do this with my dog as you summarized. It helps alot when trigger suddenly shows up in the middle of our play. She most of the time just bark once and give attention back to play. However, I don’t see this helping her reactivity as a whole, especially when we are outside for a walk. Can you please elaborate on that?
Great tips, thank you. Also ĺove your humorous delivery! I've just unbeknowningly been practicing this technique a short while ago just before watching this. Had a stinky slipper that my dog loves tied to the end of a flirt pole and been playing with her and hiding as well! She's zonked out now whilst I eat a late dinner! 😅
These are great tips, however I have a question. Do you pull out the toy whenever they start getting reactive? do you pull it out as a reward when they are not reactive? how is it used to stop the reactivity? Thank you, and sorry if I missed it in the video
The answer is in both the words and the images from 3:33 to 7:00. So, ask yourselves these questions.. Does it look like he is walking down the street, looking for another dog, then setting up a toy session after his dog attacks the other dog? Does he say in the 4 points to go for walk with the toy? What word does he use instead of walk? Have you reviewed all his points in particular the final one, or were you hoping he will say you don't have to do anything, just yell at your dog and hit it?
My dog hardly plays with toys. Don't want it. Our solution is to always keep distance from the other object and keep him moving with commands. So he's busy with what I want from him next.
I have the most reactive dog from Bulgaria. We have tried everything nothing lasts. Now we only take her out at night. If this works I'll let you know and I let others know too. Entertaining Fascinating video.
Tried my dog to learn to bark on command for like 2 days now, with food. He just didn't seem motivated enough, even though we skipped a meal or two. I got out the fishing pole and ball, and he was doing it in 10 minutes. Was satisfying to see, and also to know he's way more motivated by the ball, than food. Next time I want to teach him something, I'll try with the ball also.
Great insights. However, I was waiting for an explanation of the "strategic behavioral program" which you said was often most important, and I'd think would cover gradual exposure and de-conditioning. I don't want to get that from someone else, but know it's important, and would prefer your excellent approach. I'm hoping you have that somewhere as a "part 2" followup to this helpful program. Thank you.
Finding all your advice really helpful with Daisy our challenging young French Bulldog Jacob, but this one has potential to be the game changer. I won't leave my fly down though, your lucky the toy was more engaging for Ranger in rule 6.
meaning prior to this you didnt play with the dog and it was a nervous wreck out in public? but after you began playing with him/her more she became an overall calmer dog and didnt react to things in public anymore?
Wonderful video. Does the same play and training apply to a fluffy, mid energy lap dog who is only 10 inches tall? And if so, do you recommend not doing a lot of play at home, regardless of breed and size, so they are more eager to play outdoors?
My dog is reactive since he got attacked during play by the dog he was playing with. It was our neighbors new dog and they send their children with both their dogs for a walk. My dog was best friends with their dog, so I unfortunately thought their new dog is as well behaved as their old is. When they were playing together the other dog suddenly started biting real hard, real serious, I've never seen anything like this before, there were no warning signs. Later we found out the new dog was mentally sick because she was living in a literal wooden box before she was rescued by our neighbors. We've tried many different training methods and we found a few that helped a little bit but no more than that. Now my dog rarely plays so I'm not sure how to make him addicted to play but I'm willing to try.
@yorkshire Canine Academy I guess because none of our families 5 English Springer Spaniels had an issue with playing with toys we screwed up our 6th?! Our 6th, She likes not loves to play with toys. And only for 5 min, 10min on rare occasion. I’ve tried Every type of toy. She has a few favs but again nothing she loves. Just out of common sense I reverted to the things you suggested in this vid. It’s not working. Do I keep trying? Will she eventually change if keep trying? Shes (Maddie)2.5yrs old.
I've actually kinda picked up on the play part on my own just by spending time with my dog. I now carry a tug toy on our walks to use if I see she's about to boil over
My rescued yorkie isnt interested in toys when she is outside. She goes on hypervigilant high alert as soon as she is outdoors. Super reactive to anything that moves, people, cars, and ballistic when dogs are seen. Can you help with her?
my dog is a spitz with Low prey drive ( its a breed trait and there meant to be "Vocal guard dogs that don't go after wildlife or livestock) food drive is very low, its a highly alert and observant dog , help
I use a wheelchair ♿ how does it work then?? I can't exactly run around to distract my dog whenever I meet a dog on the street... How does this work in the moment you meet another dog on the street when walking your dog on the leash? 🤔 Thanks!
YOUR APPOINTMENT CALENDAR WON'T LET ME GET A DATE FOR A PHONE CALL-the October calendar says "no times left",but then it won't let me click into November or advance the months. Any links there are dead. FYI I have all of your cookies on, no ad blockers. Tried on 3 browsers. I'm all in and need reactive solutions, tried so much unsuccessfully- you've spent a lot of $ on your channel but this is a block to getting help. So HELP PLEASE.
What is wrong with Zac George's training methods? I didn't see you do anything inconsistently with his methods. Isn't it normal to have a dog become more difficult around 7 months, due to their hormones? Btw, these are genuine questions, I'm not arguing.
I agree with everything in your video, just not the "the rabbit never runs torwards your dog" it should be true but bunnies are dumb af. I had hares and rabbits run torwards my dogs so many times. They just speed the path in our direction and they don't notice us before they are 6ft close. Then they sit and wait until their brain tells them to run away. So stupid. If my dogs (Akita and white GSD) wouldn't be so well behaved they'd all be a meal now 😂😂 just recently my Akita was chilling besides me in a down-like pose and a hare ran out of the bushes, literally across my dog's front legs. That must've been a Kamikaze-bunny 😂
Your logic is flawed, and let me explain why. You discount correction because it will not override "adrenaline". I agree with you up to a point. If you let your dog get into the red zone, it's too late, You've lost the battle, not the war, but the battle. BUT... let me suggest that this is merely an error in timing, which if you are a professional dog trainer, you MUST understand the importance of timing. Here's the scenario... you're walking along with your dog, and your dog is thinking... la... di... da... etc.... and it sees or picks up on the whiff of a target and its body language changes from "I don't have a care in the world" to "I'm about to rip you a new one!!"... It has now gone from level 1 to level 3. In this moment, this is the time to correct.... did you get that??? CORRECT!!! Reset the mind back to a level 1. If you don't read your dog's body language, and you wait until it explodes and it is at a level 10... RED ZONE....adrenaline coursing through its veins, then OF COURSE.... correction is not effective. DON'T BE LAZY!!! Learn to read your dog's body language and correct at the right moment, and you WILL resolve leash reactivity through correction, AND it will help your relationship with your dog and further ensure your role as your dog's leader.
I'm curious your thoughts on my rescue australian cattle / chow chow mix.. he was rescued at 7 months, and over the course of about 10 months has improved at basic command obedience - sit, come etc, better leash manners and is good about staying at my side and bringing attention back to me if he gets distracted by something. he was already ok with all of this but not perfect. Since doing intentional training including wtih an e collar he has gotten better. especially in learning to ignore other dogs on walks. he used to be more reactive mainly wanting to say hi and play but now knows to ignore when i prompt him to. BUT also over the course of these 10 months he's become increasingly protective and reactive toward people. people who come into or near the home he runs at and barks at in their face (or even when he's in othr peoples homes he'll bark at any new person that comes into that house) but also out in public when people approach us too close he barks and lunges at them to back off. where before he'd let people come and pet him and every once in a while would bark at someone, now it's almost anyone who approaches.. I've been looking for training videos to help me on how to work on this but can't really seem to find anything specific
Ok, lets be honest. As 1st I will say I am a Vet and I have most of mine life Cane Corsos. Puppy is not learning till his 16 week of life and to start socialization at 6 week is same as you say you are prepping you new born child for high school. Main issue here is that you do NOT understand dog psychology and how dogs brain works. Main approach should be 90% of time you are his best friend but 10% of time hen you are pack leader if necessary you are leader from hell. Only thing puppy should do each time is when you call him he arrives with out doubt and that can be easily trained true play and games. The vaccination protocol for puppies is recommended to start between 6. i 8.weeks of age and is repeated 2-3 times every 2-4 weeks. Vaccination earlier than this can make irreversible damage to the dog's immune system. Fact that you are caring pup do NOT protect him. Not to make this too long I will just say mine Corsos are newer on leash , they are not nutered and each have 165-170 lbs and there is much bigger chance I will be reactive than them. I would suggest learning Basics of dog psychology
So when the dog starts barking at dogs you start playing with a ball or a toy? Not convinced, sorry. You need to be be alert and know your dogs body language and body movements and snap the dog out of its state before they get reactive. Correction isnt about being cruel to your dog, its a about giving a vocal sound and a tap in the leash and get them to sit so they understand that you dont accept this behaviour. Why all this distraction training.. correct bad behaviour and give affection for good behaviour.
This is another managment tool. Good tips on effective play. But this is not a fix for reactivity it's a distraction. Suppress and generalise with +P waaaay less maintenance.
Anybody dictating Punishment ( +P) does not even understand the scientific quadrants of behaviour, R+, R-, LIMA, appetitives, de escalation. +P has NO place in scientific ,ethical behaviour modifucation. Punishment is nothing more than a sliding scale of abuse.
Another misleading video! Waffle about reactivity then, unrelated, demonstrate play. Another avoidance / distraction technique which doesn’t alter the root cause of the dog’s reactivity - without THE toy, the dog is still reactive.
You are throwing in a lot of different buzzwords here, which are misleading. The root cause of a dogs reactivity is often genetic, reactivity simply means a dog that reacts a lot with the environment (barking can derive as a result of that combined with some experiences). So "altering the root cause" basically would mean getting a dog with different genes. Redirecting the dog towards the handler by nature solves the problem, because the dog becomes focused on the handler, not the environment.
what hogwash@@m4rtin419. When even genetically "pet", low energy , low drive dogs ie french bulldogs are displaying mental & emotional issues, it's evidence of how ignorant people ,owners & clueless people like yourself, actually are. This YT channel is obviously not a qualified behaviourist either, they promote shock collars & are novice level themselves. But using an ethical tool to address the symptoms of human inflicted reactivity, is intelligent & ethical. And a solution to the issue. By lowering adrenalin & counter conditioning, done properly, it also addresses the problem over time. It's such a basic concept .
This guy is NOT a degree educated behaviourist, promotes shock collars & has had dogs less than 10 years,which is novice level. Gullible people believe anything on YT.
If you need help with your reactive dog from ANYWHERE in the world , you can book a FREE consultation call here: ycaonline.co.uk/youtube
actually, this is how we formerly trained our SAR Dogs - and it worked fantastically ! competitive games with a lot of hunting elements are fantastic. and on higher level you even can train to interrupt it and continue (pause and go). this creates a high impulse control and fantastic obedience. because later you can use the pause to give another command and even later pause and recall when the dog is hunting anything.
Omg, I just read some of the comments below. Some dog owners should not have dogs.
Your video was excellent btw.
I had my Rhodesian Ridgeback on a short leash from 8 weeks... Quick corrections at all times. He's so chill as an adult. Get a house line folks ! It's the way forward!
The best and easiest way to train is to totally engage with your pet. Make him or her want to please you. Continuously train them even when in the house relaxing. Get them to sit, stay & come when called. When you see bad behaviour, distract them by becoming the most fun entertaining thing. Be consistent!
Thanks for the no nonsense tips. I love your straightforwardness.
Hi I am called the Master Matriarch from Master Matriarch's K9s. I have 8 rescue dogs of my own and I have a YT channel by the same name. I have been training since 1969, I have seen many kinds of training but not much true understanding of how dogs function. Finding you here is a rare gem. You are truly a breath of fresh air. Keep up the good work.
I'm watching too!
Appreciate the explanation of Ivan Balbanov's play theory with dogs.
so great hearing this because I've only played tug this way with my loki and I feel it had a huge part in building his confidence.
Victoria Stilwell does a similar thing, but she does use food & emphasizes that you have to stop the reactivity BEFORE it starts on a consistent basis---which makes sense in terms of the adrenaline rush---you prevent it from happening so you can use commands & treats before the adrenaline blocks their value. That obviously can't happen every time, but I'm thinking if it happens enough, the dog associates the aggression trigger with the food/toy. Good explanation of the mechanism of reactivity.
Your video is most helpful. I am 70 years old and have a Staffy. I socialised her completely when she was 4 months onwards.... as you mentioned, yep she got super excited when she sees other dogs or dogs/owners she knows. To her detriment, she got badly attacked by another dog several months ago. Today, I am scared as she weighs more than I do and I hardly can pull her back when she lunges. I have stopped taking her out for long walks. Any advise from you would be most helpful. I am just living on a pension and cannot afford all the expensive training.
Good for socializing her! Resume the socialization, but only with dogs that she knows and likes to play with, to minimize any mental damage from the attack. At the same time, walk her everyday in a place with distractions, if possible. And, teach her to look at your tongue or make a repeatable noise [not a word, but a 'meaningless' sound] : Make the noise when you are relaxing, and when she looks at you, toss her a treat. Then, ignore her until she looks away, then make the sound & treat. Repeat for about 10 minutes, a few times a day for a week or less. Once she learns to look at you after the noise, always give her the treat. Don't 'lure' or 'bribe' her with the treat - only provide it when she looks at you. If you want, you may 'randomly' give her a treat when she looks at you, even though you didn't make the noise.
Now, when you take her for a walk and you approach a potentially reactive distraction, before she has a chance to react, click your tongue so that she is looking at you, and give her the treat, as you pass the distraction. It'll take some practice, but you should get it in a week, and within a month, she should be a bit more controllable under 'predictable' circumstances. Unpredicted encounters may take a few months to reduce lunging.
@@hanksimon1023 Thank you for your advise. Will try it definitely.
@@aliceloke2679 I hope you understood... lots of typos on my part... Not "look at your tongue" but Look at you when you click your tongue... Or make some repeatable noise. [Sorry ;-) ]
Use either a head harness or a front-clip harness for better control
If you guys watch the whole video, you should still use prong collars, slip leads, treats, whatever you use that works on your walk. The big point is that you don’t tire your dog out enough and you don’t make them look forward to playing/competition with you instead of with anything else it encounters on your walks. A tired dog is a well behaved dog. Yes they may still want to react when they see something on their walks but it will make a world of difference if you already had an intense play session or 2 before your walk. No, playing with your dog doesn’t fix reactivity. Keep using corrections and rewards on walks but play with your dog more don’t make it complicated
Damn it looks like I naturally know how to do those things with dogs and now when I see your professional techniques I am finally feeling so confident with continuing that beautiful journey. Thank you for your service!!! I will definitely keep fallowing you and learning . Having a Rottweiler after having small dogs is a little challenging but it looks with your help we can make it pretty easy;) best regards from Japan
This is SO true! Excellent advice! Just be careful if you have a fragile little thing like my Whippet, or a really heavy dog. She went so nuts for the tug toy reward that she tore her ACL. So for the time being its back to doing turn ins and shoving treats in her face when she remains neutral 😩 The toy and play is definitely #1
This sounds all well and good for some types of aggression. But what about handler aggression? Competitive play needs to be back tied first but even that can still not fix the problem. Thoughts?
I wish I had found you before🤦
But thank you anyway, you made my day, finally I've got a logic answer and a great way to fix.
I do this with my dog as you summarized. It helps alot when trigger suddenly shows up in the middle of our play. She most of the time just bark once and give attention back to play. However, I don’t see this helping her reactivity as a whole, especially when we are outside for a walk. Can you please elaborate on that?
Great question.
Great tips, thank you. Also ĺove your humorous delivery!
I've just unbeknowningly been practicing this technique a short while ago just before watching this. Had a stinky slipper that my dog loves tied to the end of a flirt pole and been playing with her and hiding as well! She's zonked out now whilst I eat a late dinner! 😅
These are great tips, however I have a question. Do you pull out the toy whenever they start getting reactive? do you pull it out as a reward when they are not reactive? how is it used to stop the reactivity? Thank you, and sorry if I missed it in the video
Same question- do you bring toy on walks, for example
Also, what to do if they just take of with the toy and won't come back to play?
You didn’t miss it…it wasn’t stated.
The answer is in both the words and the images from 3:33 to 7:00.
So, ask yourselves these questions..
Does it look like he is walking down the street, looking for another dog, then setting up a toy session after his dog attacks the other dog?
Does he say in the 4 points to go for walk with the toy? What word does he use instead of walk?
Have you reviewed all his points in particular the final one, or were you hoping he will say you don't have to do anything, just yell at your dog and hit it?
@@deefee701 omg…you’re an intense one. You answered nothing and somehow still said it in a condescending manner. Impressive stuff.
Amazing and highly educational video.
My dog hardly plays with toys. Don't want it. Our solution is to always keep distance from the other object and keep him moving with commands. So he's busy with what I want from him next.
I do it as well. I think it's basically the same technique, only that movement itself is the reward instead of toys.
I have the most reactive dog from Bulgaria. We have tried everything nothing lasts. Now we only take her out at night. If this works I'll let you know and I let others know too. Entertaining Fascinating video.
Tried my dog to learn to bark on command for like 2 days now, with food. He just didn't seem motivated enough, even though we skipped a meal or two. I got out the fishing pole and ball, and he was doing it in 10 minutes. Was satisfying to see, and also to know he's way more motivated by the ball, than food. Next time I want to teach him something, I'll try with the ball also.
Sure wish I had seen this when I was training my pup! but I’ll share it with others. Fantastic thank you!!
Great insights. However, I was waiting for an explanation of the "strategic behavioral program" which you said was often most important, and I'd think would cover gradual exposure and de-conditioning. I don't want to get that from someone else, but know it's important, and would prefer your excellent approach. I'm hoping you have that somewhere as a "part 2" followup to this helpful program. Thank you.
Love this! Did you take Ivan's course?
Great information and video! I think how to play properly with dogs is the new revolution in dog training.
Finding all your advice really helpful with Daisy our challenging young French Bulldog Jacob, but this one has potential to be the game changer. I won't leave my fly down though, your lucky the toy was more engaging for Ranger in rule 6.
Good stuff man, thank you very much!
This so true. That’s how I got my chocolate Lab to stop being so nervous.
meaning prior to this you didnt play with the dog and it was a nervous wreck out in public? but after you began playing with him/her more she became an overall calmer dog and didnt react to things in public anymore?
Wonderful video. Does the same play and training apply to a fluffy, mid energy lap dog who is only 10 inches tall? And if so, do you recommend not doing a lot of play at home, regardless of breed and size, so they are more eager to play outdoors?
My dog is reactive since he got attacked during play by the dog he was playing with. It was our neighbors new dog and they send their children with both their dogs for a walk. My dog was best friends with their dog, so I unfortunately thought their new dog is as well behaved as their old is. When they were playing together the other dog suddenly started biting real hard, real serious, I've never seen anything like this before, there were no warning signs. Later we found out the new dog was mentally sick because she was living in a literal wooden box before she was rescued by our neighbors.
We've tried many different training methods and we found a few that helped a little bit but no more than that. Now my dog rarely plays so I'm not sure how to make him addicted to play but I'm willing to try.
Poor boy x you’ll get there, he will recover with gradual confidence building x
Thank you, excellent information very clearly laid out. Much appreciated...
But say if your dog doesnt like to play?
Same as my reactive one
Great information thanks
Great post.
Great Video, brilliant presentation - concise and to the point which is greatly appreciated - thank you!
Ok sounds good! But then your dog suddenly stops being reactive? Or when the dog gets reactive you start playing? Or how is this working exactly?
What would you suggest in terms of toys when the dog has to wear a muzzle? XL ‘type’ so removing it is not an option 😢
Very good question, I’d like to know
Finally a new YT post
It sounds like you are saying that a stimulated or tired dog is easier to train than a bored dog. Am I right? Thank you!
What should I do if my dog has a special diet, not kibble, to motivate them?
@yorkshire Canine Academy I guess because none of our families 5 English Springer Spaniels had an issue with playing with toys we screwed up our 6th?! Our 6th, She likes not loves to play with toys. And only for 5 min, 10min on rare occasion. I’ve tried Every type of toy. She has a few favs but again nothing she loves. Just out of common sense I reverted to the things you suggested in this vid. It’s not working. Do I keep trying? Will she eventually change if keep trying? Shes (Maddie)2.5yrs old.
I've actually kinda picked up on the play part on my own just by spending time with my dog. I now carry a tug toy on our walks to use if I see she's about to boil over
My rescued yorkie isnt interested in toys when she is outside. She goes on hypervigilant high alert as soon as she is outdoors. Super reactive to anything that moves, people, cars, and ballistic when dogs are seen. Can you help with her?
So what do you do when your dog wants something in your hands that it can't have?
my dog is a spitz with Low prey drive ( its a breed trait and there meant to be "Vocal guard dogs that don't go after wildlife or livestock) food drive is very low, its a highly alert and observant dog , help
I use a wheelchair ♿ how does it work then?? I can't exactly run around to distract my dog whenever I meet a dog on the street... How does this work in the moment you meet another dog on the street when walking your dog on the leash? 🤔 Thanks!
YOUR APPOINTMENT CALENDAR WON'T LET ME GET A DATE FOR A PHONE CALL-the October calendar says "no times left",but then it won't let me click into November or advance the months. Any links there are dead. FYI I have all of your cookies on, no ad blockers. Tried on 3 browsers.
I'm all in and need reactive solutions, tried so much unsuccessfully- you've spent a lot of $ on your channel but this is a block to getting help.
So HELP PLEASE.
Name of tug toy???
What is wrong with Zac George's training methods? I didn't see you do anything inconsistently with his methods.
Isn't it normal to have a dog become more difficult around 7 months, due to their hormones?
Btw, these are genuine questions, I'm not arguing.
@yorkshire_canine_academy where have you been all my life 😂😂 wish I'd known all this 12 months ago 🤦♂️
So... Im confused...
I play tug of war with all these steps, got em, all good.
How do I apply this in a reactivity setting?
on what basis is your claim that adrenaline closes the ear canal? i could not find any scientific data about it
I agree with everything in your video, just not the "the rabbit never runs torwards your dog" it should be true but bunnies are dumb af. I had hares and rabbits run torwards my dogs so many times. They just speed the path in our direction and they don't notice us before they are 6ft close. Then they sit and wait until their brain tells them to run away. So stupid. If my dogs (Akita and white GSD) wouldn't be so well behaved they'd all be a meal now 😂😂 just recently my Akita was chilling besides me in a down-like pose and a hare ran out of the bushes, literally across my dog's front legs. That must've been a Kamikaze-bunny 😂
You piss all over every trainer on YT. Very well informed, well edited videos. Brilliant.👏🏼👏🏼
🙏👌
But my dog isn’t agresive reacting he’s exited
!!!!
Your logic is flawed, and let me explain why. You discount correction because it will not override "adrenaline". I agree with you up to a point. If you let your dog get into the red zone, it's too late, You've lost the battle, not the war, but the battle. BUT... let me suggest that this is merely an error in timing, which if you are a professional dog trainer, you MUST understand the importance of timing. Here's the scenario... you're walking along with your dog, and your dog is thinking... la... di... da... etc.... and it sees or picks up on the whiff of a target and its body language changes from "I don't have a care in the world" to "I'm about to rip you a new one!!"... It has now gone from level 1 to level 3. In this moment, this is the time to correct.... did you get that??? CORRECT!!! Reset the mind back to a level 1. If you don't read your dog's body language, and you wait until it explodes and it is at a level 10... RED ZONE....adrenaline coursing through its veins, then OF COURSE.... correction is not effective. DON'T BE LAZY!!! Learn to read your dog's body language and correct at the right moment, and you WILL resolve leash reactivity through correction, AND it will help your relationship with your dog and further ensure your role as your dog's leader.
I'm curious your thoughts on my rescue australian cattle / chow chow mix.. he was rescued at 7 months, and over the course of about 10 months has improved at basic command obedience - sit, come etc, better leash manners and is good about staying at my side and bringing attention back to me if he gets distracted by something. he was already ok with all of this but not perfect. Since doing intentional training including wtih an e collar he has gotten better. especially in learning to ignore other dogs on walks. he used to be more reactive mainly wanting to say hi and play but now knows to ignore when i prompt him to.
BUT also over the course of these 10 months he's become increasingly protective and reactive toward people. people who come into or near the home he runs at and barks at in their face (or even when he's in othr peoples homes he'll bark at any new person that comes into that house) but also out in public when people approach us too close he barks and lunges at them to back off. where before he'd let people come and pet him and every once in a while would bark at someone, now it's almost anyone who approaches.. I've been looking for training videos to help me on how to work on this but can't really seem to find anything specific
Ok, lets be honest. As 1st I will say I am a Vet and I have most of mine life Cane Corsos. Puppy is not learning till his 16 week of life and to start socialization at 6 week is same as you say you are prepping you new born child for high school. Main issue here is that you do NOT understand dog psychology and how dogs brain works. Main approach should be 90% of time you are his best friend but 10% of time hen you are pack leader if necessary you are leader from hell. Only thing puppy should do each time is when you call him he arrives with out doubt and that can be easily trained true play and games. The vaccination protocol for puppies is recommended to start between 6. i 8.weeks of age and is repeated 2-3 times every 2-4 weeks. Vaccination earlier than this can make irreversible damage to the dog's immune system. Fact that you are caring pup do NOT protect him. Not to make this too long I will just say mine Corsos are newer on leash , they are not nutered and each have 165-170 lbs and there is much bigger chance I will be reactive than them. I would suggest learning Basics of dog psychology
You commented on the wrong video champ.
So when the dog starts barking at dogs you start playing with a ball or a toy? Not convinced, sorry. You need to be be alert and know your dogs body language and body movements and snap the dog out of its state before they get reactive. Correction isnt about being cruel to your dog, its a about giving a vocal sound and a tap in the leash and get them to sit so they understand that you dont accept this behaviour. Why all this distraction training.. correct bad behaviour and give affection for good behaviour.
Dogs only act out like that because they are not getting thair needs out what they were hred for.Wish people would research where there dog come from.
This is another managment tool.
Good tips on effective play.
But this is not a fix for reactivity it's a distraction.
Suppress and generalise with +P waaaay less maintenance.
Anybody dictating Punishment ( +P) does not even understand the scientific quadrants of behaviour, R+, R-, LIMA, appetitives, de escalation. +P has NO place in scientific ,ethical behaviour modifucation. Punishment is nothing more than a sliding scale of abuse.
Another misleading video! Waffle about reactivity then, unrelated, demonstrate play. Another avoidance / distraction technique which doesn’t alter the root cause of the dog’s reactivity - without THE toy, the dog is still reactive.
You are throwing in a lot of different buzzwords here, which are misleading.
The root cause of a dogs reactivity is often genetic, reactivity simply means a dog that reacts a lot with the environment (barking can derive as a result of that combined with some experiences). So "altering the root cause" basically would mean getting a dog with different genes.
Redirecting the dog towards the handler by nature solves the problem, because the dog becomes focused on the handler, not the environment.
what hogwash@@m4rtin419. When even genetically "pet", low energy , low drive dogs ie french bulldogs are displaying mental & emotional issues, it's evidence of how ignorant people ,owners & clueless people like yourself, actually are. This YT channel is obviously not a qualified behaviourist either, they promote shock collars & are novice level themselves. But using an ethical tool to address the symptoms of human inflicted reactivity, is intelligent & ethical. And a solution to the issue. By lowering adrenalin & counter conditioning, done properly, it also addresses the problem over time. It's such a basic concept .
This guy is NOT a degree educated behaviourist, promotes shock collars & has had dogs less than 10 years,which is novice level. Gullible people believe anything on YT.
Skip It ... he is talking nonstop