I wish my mind worked as yours. I am entranced by your logic and way of working and figuring things Ron. Thanks for taking the time to share your experience.
Ron: Thank you for passing along the discount code! I just picked up some more 2P-10 and some other FastCap products I've been wanting to try. As a maintenance man/maker/sculptor 2P-10 is a life saver. It really is a wonderful product. Thank you for your videos and have a happy holidays. Best, JRGM
This is awesome stuff. I was first introduced to it many years ago when a salesman came into the shop wondering if I thought the kitchen department would be interested in it for quick repairs on the job site. Immediately though I saw a great use for it in the window shop. Previously, when making aprons for under the window sill with moldings that had a lot of details in their profile, we would cut the ends straight down at a 45 degree angle then cut some matching returns which we would attach with 3M spray adhesive. This worked fine but it was messy, drying times fluctuated with humidity which meant you had to wait before they were tacky enough for you to stick the two pieces together and then for them to totally dry so the returns wouldn't shift when you wrapped them all up together for shipping to the job site. With this stuff I put a little bead of the jell on the length of returns, laid out and sprayed all the ends of the aprons with the activator in one shot, then mated all the pieces together holding them for a second or so to dry. Boom, done. The aprons with the returns looked like they were milled that way without any strings or lumps from the spray adhesive and there wasn't any over spray making a mess of the area. Its like crazy glue for wood but works for other stuff as well. You're now seeing a lot of 'plastic' moldings, this stuff worked great for butting up ends, straight or mitered, and gluing them together. We could assemble all the moldings at the shop, for interior and exterior, and ship them out for the finish carpenters to just hang and fasten to the jambs.
a good trick is, if you can biscuit your joint, apply the 2p10 in the biscuit cut, and apply yellow glue on the joint/miter. spray the activator on the biscuit. join your work, presto you have a flex joint that is rock hard in 10 seconds. its great if you are in a rush, but still allow the yellow glue to set prior to any torquing. 2p10 is more like a nail. it has no real holding power. the right glue is the best glue. 2p10 is not the best glue, but in conjunction with the right glue , its a huge help.
Ha, found this video right after my last comment on your crown series. Exactly what I was saying about using CA glue solely. But great tip to use it as a clamp. I'm in Texas, and humidity runs the show in dealing with wood.
I love the 2p10 and have found many uses for it. One question, how in the world do you cut the small base return "cap" without it flying at the end of the cut? Every time I cut one on my Kapex it hits the blade and takes off. Thanks for your advise. Jeff
Tip -- Keep the bottles of glue in the refrigerator when not using. They'll stay in good shape for quite a while. One drop of water / humidity in a bottle of cyno glue will harden the entire bottle. When out on the site I keep them in an insulated lunch sack with one of those reusable freezer ice packs.
Yes, I cope all inside miters no matter the material. Solid wood is easier than MDF as it holds together better when coping and it doesn't crush or break during install. I did a whole series on crown. I used MDF, but the technique is exactly the same, except hardwood is more forgiving. If you can master making copes with MDF, hardwood will be a snap. th-cam.com/video/O3l6DdfgGJA/w-d-xo.html
While I appreciate the coupon code, it makes it the same cost as ordering from Amazon with the order being fulfilled by fast cap. Amazon is actually a few cents cheaper.
That's wood glue that I wiped off after I let the 2p10 set. The 2p10 was to the inside and did not show at all, none, nada, as in not any. I made that clear in the video. I have said many many many times that wood glue should squeeze out as it wipes off easy with a damp cloth. Check 6:54 where I only used 2p10 and was careful not to let it squees out. If it does squeeze out, spraying on some activator will harden it and it will pop off if you don't wait too long.
![[TH] G2 vs PRX | EDG vs FUT - VALORANT Champions 2024 DAY 4](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Bkr_qM7dIaM/mqdefault.jpg)
I wish my mind worked as yours. I am entranced by your logic and way of working and figuring things Ron. Thanks for taking the time to share your experience.
Ron: Thank you for passing along the discount code! I just picked up some more 2P-10 and some other FastCap products I've been wanting to try. As a maintenance man/maker/sculptor 2P-10 is a life saver. It really is a wonderful product. Thank you for your videos and have a happy holidays.
Best,
JRGM
This is awesome stuff. I was first introduced to it many years ago when a salesman came into the shop wondering if I thought the kitchen department would be interested in it for quick repairs on the job site. Immediately though I saw a great use for it in the window shop. Previously, when making aprons for under the window sill with moldings that had a lot of details in their profile, we would cut the ends straight down at a 45 degree angle then cut some matching returns which we would attach with 3M spray adhesive. This worked fine but it was messy, drying times fluctuated with humidity which meant you had to wait before they were tacky enough for you to stick the two pieces together and then for them to totally dry so the returns wouldn't shift when you wrapped them all up together for shipping to the job site. With this stuff I put a little bead of the jell on the length of returns, laid out and sprayed all the ends of the aprons with the activator in one shot, then mated all the pieces together holding them for a second or so to dry. Boom, done. The aprons with the returns looked like they were milled that way without any strings or lumps from the spray adhesive and there wasn't any over spray making a mess of the area.
Its like crazy glue for wood but works for other stuff as well. You're now seeing a lot of 'plastic' moldings, this stuff worked great for butting up ends, straight or mitered, and gluing them together. We could assemble all the moldings at the shop, for interior and exterior, and ship them out for the finish carpenters to just hang and fasten to the jambs.
thanks Ron great tips.Merry Christmas 🎅
a good trick is, if you can biscuit your joint, apply the 2p10 in the biscuit cut, and apply yellow glue on the joint/miter. spray the activator on the biscuit. join your work, presto you have a flex joint that is rock hard in 10 seconds. its great if you are in a rush, but still allow the yellow glue to set prior to any torquing. 2p10 is more like a nail. it has no real holding power. the right glue is the best glue. 2p10 is not the best glue, but in conjunction with the right glue , its a huge help.
Ha, found this video right after my last comment on your crown series. Exactly what I was saying about using CA glue solely. But great tip to use it as a clamp. I'm in Texas, and humidity runs the show in dealing with wood.
Excellent video
2P10 is awesome!
I love the 2p10 and have found many uses for it. One question, how in the world do you cut the small base return "cap" without it flying at the end of the cut? Every time I cut one on my Kapex it hits the blade and takes off. Thanks for your advise. Jeff
Tip -- Keep the bottles of glue in the refrigerator when not using. They'll stay in good shape for quite a while.
One drop of water / humidity in a bottle of cyno glue will harden the entire bottle. When out on the site I keep them in an insulated lunch sack with one of those reusable freezer ice packs.
I have never had an issue with wood glue, but maybe it's my location.
I tried this stuff recently on pine finger joint door casing... It wasn't worth a shit! Does it only work on garbage home depot mdf?
do you cope inside miter stained solid wood crown? would like to see how you do that.
Yes, I cope all inside miters no matter the material. Solid wood is easier than MDF as it holds together better when coping and it doesn't crush or break during install. I did a whole series on crown. I used MDF, but the technique is exactly the same, except hardwood is more forgiving. If you can master making copes with MDF, hardwood will be a snap. th-cam.com/video/O3l6DdfgGJA/w-d-xo.html
'good tip thank you
Ron, do you if this would work on plastic?
Thanks,Dave
it works on plastic. but it's best to use the right glue for your application. 2p10 is great, but it is not the best glue. its as good a a nail.
While I appreciate the coupon code, it makes it the same cost as ordering from Amazon with the order being fulfilled by fast cap. Amazon is actually a few cents cheaper.
At 3:17 the outside of the joint looks a mess. Don't think that product is for me. Reminds me of model glue when I was a kid.
That's wood glue that I wiped off after I let the 2p10 set. The 2p10 was to the inside and did not show at all, none, nada, as in not any. I made that clear in the video. I have said many many many times that wood glue should squeeze out as it wipes off easy with a damp cloth. Check 6:54 where I only used 2p10 and was careful not to let it squees out. If it does squeeze out, spraying on some activator will harden it and it will pop off if you don't wait too long.
Thank you for the clarification. I didn't see you put the wood glue on the joint. My mistake.