LEE! I just binge watched the entire playlist in one sitting! I have never done that before on youtube and I watch really alot. Your videos are excellent and theres alot of thought gone into every shot and edit which I really appreciate. Also I'm prepping a 2005 MGTF to give to my 17year old son at the moment, MOT booked in for the 26th ofSeptember, All seems ok really but I have rust on the back sills, maybe not as bad as yours was but I will look into it. Thankyou again for a fantastic day and a half of education and entertainment!
Lee I cleaned up the existing unit with a small brass bristled brush and bought.new resistors from Maplins at the time and soldered them on. It was pennies to fix so I think it's cheaper than buying a new unit. On saying that the resistors I bought were certainly more hard wearing than what Rover used. A more long term job. Just in case anyone is on a real tight budget.
Another wonderful bit of MGTF design where you have to be contortionist to get to the nut /bolt /component. Just like the bolt at the bottom of the steering column which has to be connected to the steering rack. The suggestion of removing the snorkel to get at the resistor pack from the top seems viable but you still have to get into Kama Sutra position 656(sorry I'm dreaming) to release the bottom end of the snorkel!!!
Well made video Lee, I think every F/TF owner has had this problem, there is an upgrade resistor for it now but not sure its worth the extra they want for it.
Lee I had the same issue as in this video. You went through every body position I did to remove the resistor pack and the only thing missing was the extremely blue air surrounding me during the process. Lol. Well done.
Another good video Lee that I’m sure plenty of people will find useful! I actually did this job on mine a couple of years ago, just before I started my channel.
That working position was something I have had to get in a number of time, on the driver's side. A few times to lubricate and then replace a throttle cable that had a kink in it. Then to reposition the brake light switch. Then polybushing the front lower arm. You have to lower the subframe, to get access to the bolts; so the lower link clamp on the steering column has to be disconnected (and reconnected afterwards). All this with the steering wheel in place.
Another way on a TF or even an F with the snorkel upgrade is just to remove that.... makes thinks a bit easier if your someone that can't lay across the door opening. If you own an F with the standard intake box then that's tuff luck 🤣 Another good video though Lee 👌
An unconnected (to the video topic) observation, your handbrake leaver looks to be too high, this is usually a result of the handbrake cable being over adjusted to compensate for a failing rear brake callipers that are seizing. I found this out the hard and expensive way when I set fire to a perfectly good set of brake pads on the way home from work one evening. This is a common issue with these Lucas type callipers not just on MG’s and tend to swap them out as soon as they look like giving trouble.
Just completed this little job - made much easier following along with your video. Many thanks 👍
Had to do this repair on all 4 MGF/TFs I've owned, doesn't get any easier with age!!! Keep up the great content 👏
LEE! I just binge watched the entire playlist in one sitting! I have never done that before on youtube and I watch really alot. Your videos are excellent and theres alot of thought gone into every shot and edit which I really appreciate. Also I'm prepping a 2005 MGTF to give to my 17year old son at the moment, MOT booked in for the 26th ofSeptember, All seems ok really but I have rust on the back sills, maybe not as bad as yours was but I will look into it. Thankyou again for a fantastic day and a half of education and entertainment!
Cheers Jamie, that's awesome 👌
Lee I cleaned up the existing unit with a small brass bristled brush and bought.new resistors from Maplins at the time and soldered them on. It was pennies to fix so I think it's cheaper than buying a new unit. On saying that the resistors I bought were certainly more hard wearing than what Rover used. A more long term job. Just in case anyone is on a real tight budget.
Great position Lee to repair the blower motor🙃 I hope that my MG blower never fails 😀
Another wonderful bit of MGTF design where you have to be contortionist to get to the nut /bolt /component. Just like the bolt at the bottom of the steering column which has to be connected to the steering rack. The suggestion of removing the snorkel to get at the resistor pack from the top seems viable but you still have to get into Kama Sutra position 656(sorry I'm dreaming) to release the bottom end of the snorkel!!!
🤣🤣
Good job well explained.
Done this on my car twice!!
Well made video Lee, I think every F/TF owner has had this problem, there is an upgrade resistor for it now but not sure its worth the extra they want for it.
Lee I had the same issue as in this video. You went through every body position I did to remove the resistor pack and the only thing missing was the extremely blue air surrounding me during the process. Lol. Well done.
🤣🤣
Another good video Lee that I’m sure plenty of people will find useful! I actually did this job on mine a couple of years ago, just before I started my channel.
Good job Lee! Had to do this on mine a few years back 👍
That working position was something I have had to get in a number of time, on the driver's side. A few times to lubricate and then replace a throttle cable that had a kink in it. Then to reposition the brake light switch. Then polybushing the front lower arm. You have to lower the subframe, to get access to the bolts; so the lower link clamp on the steering column has to be disconnected (and reconnected afterwards). All this with the steering wheel in place.
Those new one burn out really quick. The ceramic resistors from DMGRS work so much better and are significantly cheaper than a whole unit
I got those as well, easy to solder and encased in ceramic to reduce burn out, much cheaper.
Another way on a TF or even an F with the snorkel upgrade is just to remove that.... makes thinks a bit easier if your someone that can't lay across the door opening. If you own an F with the standard intake box then that's tuff luck 🤣
Another good video though Lee 👌
This is a job I need to get done
An unconnected (to the video topic) observation, your handbrake leaver looks to be too high, this is usually a result of the handbrake cable being over adjusted to compensate for a failing rear brake callipers that are seizing. I found this out the hard and expensive way when I set fire to a perfectly good set of brake pads on the way home from work one evening. This is a common issue with these Lucas type callipers not just on MG’s and tend to swap them out as soon as they look like giving trouble.
Cheers Chris 👍
Lee iam 6'3" tall will I fit comfortably in a mg tf
I'd say comfort is relative, try before you buy 😉
Thanks