Good changes to the b6.3. I have a b6.1 and have updated everything but the rear-end. I'm happy with the updated bell crank brace myself. Have a good 1
6.1 카펫버젼 중고로 구매하여 사용하다가 6.4d신품 구매해서 조립 중 입니다 아마추어 유저가 봤을때는 큰 변화가 없었습니다 이 영상을 먼저 봤다면 좀 더 저렴한 6.2 또는 6.3 더트버전을 구매 했을텐데요😂 그리고 중고로 구매해서 몰랐는데 레이백, 레이다운 기어박스도 함께 들어있더군요😂 여러개의 영상을 찾아봤는데 당신의 영상이 가장 설명이 잘되어 있어서 많은 도움이 되었습니다 영상 잘 봤습니다
I just got the b6.3, I hope you post a build series for this car like you did with the b6.2. What I have found is that some parts are labeled they fit the b6.2 but not the b6.3 y is that and does it just not state it fits the b6.3 is thats why part compatibility isn't listed for the b6.3. 🤷♂️🤦♂️idk any help would be great or a build series of this car to see how you do it and what parts actually fit and are backwards compatible. Thanks & keep up the awesome vids. 🤙
That's a great point i didn't make in the video! Most of the updated parts require the .3 car. Chassis for the servo update and front shock tower for the protective bit. Rear hangers and rear shock tower can be upgraded independently. The wider c and d blocks are ready hooking up good on the track! Are you planning on upgrading a b6.2 also? I've been considering it for my old car.
Hi. I just bought B6D. What are the big difference for B6D and 6.3D? Newbie here. Just start to get a used pro kit buggy. Am i going to regret to buy the old version?
B6D is a great place to start building skills! Shocks are built the same on that car and it has a similar layout to the new chassis. I would def. run it and see what things you like and don't like. The new car has about 3 years of tech changes mostly around the shock lengths and the geometry of the rear end of the car. It also has some nice to haves like an easier to get to diff etc. B6D can still be a very competitive car however.
If you're starting with a .1 I would def. get all the changes they did to the b6.3d rear. So the C and D blocks, the rear arms and the longer bones. With the new rear arms you will need to get the B74 hubs which are stronger and more adjustable. Another option that I feel is a must would be the 27.5mm rear shock bodies and the lower tower. This makes the car much more stable etc. The other upgrades are nice to have but don't really impact the performance as much (fan mounts, less slop in the front end, servo mount etc).
@@DaveDriggs this would be my first 2wd competition buggy - I have looked at used .1/.2 and the difference between buying those or new is so negligible. What are your thoughts on the xray xb2?
Go with a .2 as it has the lower tower and shock bodies! Hand full of xrays at my local track. Seems like their cars work best with higher grip surfaces. So if you're running slicks etc. More expensive than ae cars but the parts are high quality.
Over the past few iterations the dirt car has become more like the carpet car. Run the laydown transmission and put the B6.3 manual setup on the car. It should be great on carpet! Eventually you could swap out to the longer rear arms if you feel the rear end isn't locking in the way you want.
I'm looking to get back into 2wd off-road racing on grass mostly so considering the B6.3D, do you reckon a B7D will be released soon? Or just go for the B6.3D? Thanks
David, it's a pretty good question right now! Usually we start to hear rumors of new chassis coming around this time of year from AE. Even if they announced it today it would be a good 3 or 4 months until we would see them on shelfs. Personally I would take the chance and pick up a kit new or used and start learning on the current platform. Get your other stuff in-line like Radio, Charger, batt, esc, servo, tires. This stuff can be moved to a new platform later when / if it comes.
Hey Dave! I appreciate the videos and they're very helpful. I'm fairly new to RC and I was wondering if you think it's worth upgrading the steering rack, the steering bellcrank and the bulkhead to the aluminum ones that Associated has. Also, is it worth using the anti roll bars for the front and rear?
Thanks for watching! The first thing you will break is the plastic bulkhead during crashes out of all the parts that can be replaced with aluminum. If you're interested in protection I would go with that first (www.exotekracing.com/b6-2-hd-front-bulkhead-7075-2-color-anodized/). Also, get yourself the aluminum servo arm (something like ASC1370 that matches your servo spline count). These two things will fail faster than the rack, bellcrank etc. I've used upgraded to aluminum bellcranks in my .2 and using the plastic parts in my .3 and really can't tell that much difference. I think they reduce some slop. You def. don't want everything aluminum as you want some point of failure to protect your servo. For the Buggy, if you're running dirt the roll bars are not required. If you run on carpet or turf or maybe super high grip clay (running slicks) start with a front rollbar first and see what the car does.
This is a good document that shows the differences from AE res.cloudinary.com/learnamic/image/upload/v1655899854/sd/help_pdfs/team%2520associated%2520rc10%2520b6.3%2520vs%2520b6.3d%2520comparison.pdf
I am running the laydown transmission so the larger one. The smaller gear is for the layback transmission which shifts the motor more rearward. In most cases the car works great in laydown. If you're running outside on looser dirt you can try the layback.
G'day mate. I was just wondering where you got your wheels, and if they were genuine Associated wheels? If not, what brand are they? Every store near me has them out of stock, and I can't even buy them online. Especially the rear wheels it seems. If you could just tell me where you got yours, that'd be great. Also can you please make a video of the car on track driving? Cheers.
Sorry to read you're having problems with finding wheels! Usually these are much easier to get than some of the popular tires (like the elusive JC Ellipse Silvers). I love the Pro-line velocity wheels because of their non-dish design and how they can take a beating. Part number PRO2736-02. If in a pinch I will also buy JConcepts Mono wheels which have better value (you get 4 per pack for only 25% more the price of the pro-line pair). The AE wheels are good, but have a shiny plastic finish and dished - ASC9696. AE wheels are slightly less expensive than the Pro-lines and do hold up well. DE racing also has a couple of wheels that are good but seem slightly softer. Speedline: DER-SB4-ARY and Borrego: DER-BB-ARY. If you're into color matching your wheels go with DE Racing! The wheels in the video are JC wheels, the rears are actually recycled from an older set for TLR. Fronts are monos. I buy my wheels from local hobby shops and Amainhobbies.com. Running videos yes! I'm interested in making these and I'm working on getting the correct camera equipment for it. Stay tuned!
@@DaveDriggs Hi again. I am still looking for wheels! I have found what I think are the wheels you are using, but I'll just confirm. Are you using 'Proline Velocity 2.2" Hex Front Yellow Wheels', and 'Proline Velocity 2.2" Hex Rear Yellow Wheels'? I found these on a website called crazyhobbies.com.au
The car is designed to work with 7.4v or 7.6v shorty lipo packs. Something like this: fantomracing.com/shop/batteries/2s-batteries/4000mah-110c-160c-7-6v-2-cell-thin-shorty-pro-hv-silicon-graphene-lihv/ Running a stick pack lateral like we did in the b4 is going to be hard with the motor and trans in the way. There just isn't as much room inside on these cars as we had with the others in the past.
Both tracks are from Epidemic. Band called Arc De Soleil Background www.epidemicsound.com/track/v6AUQ14iJy/ Build montage www.epidemicsound.com/track/mY3h4sjvNN/
Hi Dave I enjoyed your video I especially liked your pill organizer I don't have a 3d printer would you be interested in making me one I think it's a cool design just let me know how to contact you for the pitulars.
Hi Rick thanks for checking out the channel! If you don't have access to a printer you have a few options. I know Team Associated uses www.shapeways.com/ for sharing post production parts. They have the ability to upload and quote prints and they are very high quality. You can also use www.makexyz.com which is a lower cost option and may have a local provide for print services.
What a beautiful piece of engineering. Can't wait to get mine.
Good changes to the b6.3. I have a b6.1 and have updated everything but the rear-end. I'm happy with the updated bell crank brace myself. Have a good 1
Absolutely love your paint! Great work.
Thanks Ryan!
6.1 카펫버젼 중고로 구매하여
사용하다가 6.4d신품 구매해서
조립 중 입니다
아마추어 유저가 봤을때는 큰 변화가 없었습니다 이 영상을 먼저 봤다면
좀 더 저렴한 6.2 또는 6.3 더트버전을
구매 했을텐데요😂
그리고 중고로 구매해서 몰랐는데
레이백, 레이다운 기어박스도
함께 들어있더군요😂
여러개의 영상을 찾아봤는데
당신의 영상이 가장 설명이 잘되어
있어서 많은 도움이 되었습니다
영상 잘 봤습니다
Love the b6.3😀 just got mine
Great info thanks
Curious if ppl are using sway bars on high bite tracks on this car?
Definitely a good tuning option. If you can get your hands on some try it out and see if it works! Our track hasn't been as high grip to need them.
Love the paint job, but the main wing should have been black with the front mini wing the metallic pink, with white rims
The charge block is wider as well
Wow 529 subscribers is total bs😡your videos are amazing and you deserve a lot more subs keep up the good work🤟🏼
:D thanks! I'm slowly building up I guess, more content coming!!
I just got the b6.3, I hope you post a build series for this car like you did with the b6.2. What I have found is that some parts are labeled they fit the b6.2 but not the b6.3 y is that and does it just not state it fits the b6.3 is thats why part compatibility isn't listed for the b6.3. 🤷♂️🤦♂️idk any help would be great or a build series of this car to see how you do it and what parts actually fit and are backwards compatible. Thanks & keep up the awesome vids. 🤙
That's a great point i didn't make in the video! Most of the updated parts require the .3 car. Chassis for the servo update and front shock tower for the protective bit. Rear hangers and rear shock tower can be upgraded independently. The wider c and d blocks are ready hooking up good on the track! Are you planning on upgrading a b6.2 also? I've been considering it for my old car.
Hi. I just bought B6D. What are the big difference for B6D and 6.3D? Newbie here. Just start to get a used pro kit buggy. Am i going to regret to buy the old version?
B6D is a great place to start building skills! Shocks are built the same on that car and it has a similar layout to the new chassis. I would def. run it and see what things you like and don't like. The new car has about 3 years of tech changes mostly around the shock lengths and the geometry of the rear end of the car. It also has some nice to haves like an easier to get to diff etc. B6D can still be a very competitive car however.
Hi Dave - do you think there is massive difference between the D .1/.2/.3 ? I will be racing on dirt in stock 17.5. Any advice appreciated!
If you're starting with a .1 I would def. get all the changes they did to the b6.3d rear. So the C and D blocks, the rear arms and the longer bones. With the new rear arms you will need to get the B74 hubs which are stronger and more adjustable. Another option that I feel is a must would be the 27.5mm rear shock bodies and the lower tower. This makes the car much more stable etc. The other upgrades are nice to have but don't really impact the performance as much (fan mounts, less slop in the front end, servo mount etc).
@@DaveDriggs this would be my first 2wd competition buggy - I have looked at used .1/.2 and the difference between buying those or new is so negligible. What are your thoughts on the xray xb2?
Go with a .2 as it has the lower tower and shock bodies! Hand full of xrays at my local track. Seems like their cars work best with higher grip surfaces. So if you're running slicks etc. More expensive than ae cars but the parts are high quality.
Hey there. I just bought the B6.3D and I did not realized that the "D" means Dirt. Can I still make it carpet racing compatible?
Over the past few iterations the dirt car has become more like the carpet car. Run the laydown transmission and put the B6.3 manual setup on the car. It should be great on carpet! Eventually you could swap out to the longer rear arms if you feel the rear end isn't locking in the way you want.
I'm looking to get back into 2wd off-road racing on grass mostly so considering the B6.3D, do you reckon a B7D will be released soon? Or just go for the B6.3D? Thanks
David, it's a pretty good question right now! Usually we start to hear rumors of new chassis coming around this time of year from AE. Even if they announced it today it would be a good 3 or 4 months until we would see them on shelfs. Personally I would take the chance and pick up a kit new or used and start learning on the current platform. Get your other stuff in-line like Radio, Charger, batt, esc, servo, tires. This stuff can be moved to a new platform later when / if it comes.
Yo dude just a heads up on the spur cover. It's only for the 3 gear standup transmission. Great video and keep up the good work 👍
Thanks for the info!
Hey Dave! I appreciate the videos and they're very helpful. I'm fairly new to RC and I was wondering if you think it's worth upgrading the steering rack, the steering bellcrank and the bulkhead to the aluminum ones that Associated has. Also, is it worth using the anti roll bars for the front and rear?
Thanks for watching!
The first thing you will break is the plastic bulkhead during crashes out of all the parts that can be replaced with aluminum. If you're interested in protection I would go with that first (www.exotekracing.com/b6-2-hd-front-bulkhead-7075-2-color-anodized/). Also, get yourself the aluminum servo arm (something like ASC1370 that matches your servo spline count). These two things will fail faster than the rack, bellcrank etc. I've used upgraded to aluminum bellcranks in my .2 and using the plastic parts in my .3 and really can't tell that much difference. I think they reduce some slop. You def. don't want everything aluminum as you want some point of failure to protect your servo.
For the Buggy, if you're running dirt the roll bars are not required. If you run on carpet or turf or maybe super high grip clay (running slicks) start with a front rollbar first and see what the car does.
@@DaveDriggs Thanks so much for the input! This info really helps!
What's the difrence between b6.3 compared to b6.3D
This is a good document that shows the differences from AE
res.cloudinary.com/learnamic/image/upload/v1655899854/sd/help_pdfs/team%2520associated%2520rc10%2520b6.3%2520vs%2520b6.3d%2520comparison.pdf
What gear did you put inside the transmission the 39T or the smaller one?
I am running the laydown transmission so the larger one. The smaller gear is for the layback transmission which shifts the motor more rearward. In most cases the car works great in laydown. If you're running outside on looser dirt you can try the layback.
The mat you are on is that 1cm squares? Or inch?
1 inch squares.
G'day mate. I was just wondering where you got your wheels, and if they were genuine Associated wheels? If not, what brand are they? Every store near me has them out of stock, and I can't even buy them online. Especially the rear wheels it seems.
If you could just tell me where you got yours, that'd be great. Also can you please make a video of the car on track driving?
Cheers.
Sorry to read you're having problems with finding wheels! Usually these are much easier to get than some of the popular tires (like the elusive JC Ellipse Silvers).
I love the Pro-line velocity wheels because of their non-dish design and how they can take a beating. Part number PRO2736-02. If in a pinch I will also buy JConcepts Mono wheels which have better value (you get 4 per pack for only 25% more the price of the pro-line pair). The AE wheels are good, but have a shiny plastic finish and dished - ASC9696. AE wheels are slightly less expensive than the Pro-lines and do hold up well. DE racing also has a couple of wheels that are good but seem slightly softer. Speedline: DER-SB4-ARY and Borrego: DER-BB-ARY. If you're into color matching your wheels go with DE Racing!
The wheels in the video are JC wheels, the rears are actually recycled from an older set for TLR. Fronts are monos. I buy my wheels from local hobby shops and Amainhobbies.com.
Running videos yes! I'm interested in making these and I'm working on getting the correct camera equipment for it. Stay tuned!
@@DaveDriggs Hi again. I am still looking for wheels! I have found what I think are the wheels you are using, but I'll just confirm. Are you using 'Proline Velocity 2.2" Hex Front Yellow Wheels', and 'Proline Velocity 2.2" Hex Rear Yellow Wheels'? I found these on a website called crazyhobbies.com.au
@@DaveDriggs Also, where did you get your wheels? I might look at the website.
🤣🤣🤣 there's no helping some people
Will a 7.2v stick pack fit?
The car is designed to work with 7.4v or 7.6v shorty lipo packs. Something like this: fantomracing.com/shop/batteries/2s-batteries/4000mah-110c-160c-7-6v-2-cell-thin-shorty-pro-hv-silicon-graphene-lihv/
Running a stick pack lateral like we did in the b4 is going to be hard with the motor and trans in the way. There just isn't as much room inside on these cars as we had with the others in the past.
What's the song in the video
Both tracks are from Epidemic. Band called Arc De Soleil
Background www.epidemicsound.com/track/v6AUQ14iJy/
Build montage www.epidemicsound.com/track/mY3h4sjvNN/
Who has a B6.4d on order???
Hi Dave I enjoyed your video I especially liked your pill organizer I don't have a 3d printer would you be interested in making me one I think it's a cool design just let me know how to contact you for the pitulars.
Hi Rick thanks for checking out the channel! If you don't have access to a printer you have a few options. I know Team Associated uses www.shapeways.com/ for sharing post production parts. They have the ability to upload and quote prints and they are very high quality. You can also use www.makexyz.com which is a lower cost option and may have a local provide for print services.
@@DaveDriggs Thank you I am going to take your advice.