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I personally like diff oils because it allows you to consistently reproduce the same value after rebuilds etc. If you need low low values you can goto shock oils also.

@@DaveDriggs I honestly did not expect a response! Thank you sir I appreciate the answer!

This track is located in Wayland Michigan

Sometimes I'll tap it down with something flat like the end of the shock shaft or my 2.5mm driver if that happens.

Yes this is normal. If you had zero air in the emulsion shock you would get hydrolock. For example, when you fill the shock body up with oil and then don't bleed it, the shaft will not move because air can not be displaced inside the shock body. There is a small amount of air that mixes with the oil while the shock is activating (which is what you're hearing). This is a good reason to take a few warm-up laps when you put your car down on the track before a race etc.

@@DaveDriggs thank you very much. It helps a lot 👍

Laser printer on these, if you cover with clear an inkjet would work great too!

Any 4mm plug should work good. Something like this: www.amazon.com/FLY-RC-Bullet-Connector-Battery/dp/B07CSQH2QC/ref=sr_1_4

@@DaveDriggs hey man, thanks for the help I just couldn’t make up my mind which plug to buy

Doesn't traxxas make an adapter without cutting wires?

I sold all my SC10s a while back or I could check for you! Sorry man, I don't believe they are compatible however. The rebuild kits maybe are, but prob not the out drives and the gear.

Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it

For me it's preferred to have zero rebound and tune the shock with the piston/spring/oil as it's difficult to get a consistent rebound for each shock.

It will move a tiny bit, maybe less than .25mm. you will see wear on your spur gear edges if it's too loose or the bearings need to be replaced etc.

Bummer!! I did not have that problem on mine, they fit pretty good with the short wheel nuts AE is putting in all the kits now.

@@DaveDriggs it must be normal than

The one I use is a Ride Shock Air Remover (LONG)RI-29101. There are similar products out there like Tamiya TAM54152. Not required but helps quicken the shock building process at the track when you don't want to wait for the bubbles.

hi Jason! Hope you're enjoying the build as much as I did! I haven't set my car up for carpet but I do know this may help you: www.sodialed.com/rc-settings/differential-height Basically you want the least amount of bind with your drive train and it should feel smooth right out the the box. One failure I found on my car was the rear diff pinion gear bearings. Keep a close eye on those once you're rolling, if you're hearing any noise it might be those cap bearings failing from drivetrain flex. This is happening in the front and the rear of the car.

@Dave Driggs cheers for the reply mate I am enjoying the build I ended up swapping the gearbox over to the 0 wasn't to hard to get out but for some reason the pinion was stuck in the gearbox I can't get it out. I'll have a look at the info you shared on the diff heights thanks heaps for reaching out if you know why I can't get the pinion out please let me know. Thanks mate

Some things I would try: Chapstick or a diff seal product on the gasket to help the seal.. I was able to get mine sealed pretty good with the kyosho red seal. You could also have a warped diff housing that will never seal correctly and just needs to be replaced.

@@DaveDriggs I think I finally got the b74.2d built and functioning properly. I must have got a bad seal or the housing was not quite flat. I sanded the housing down a little and replaced the gasket, hasn’t leaked since. Got the arms moving freely with some sanding as well. Turnbuckles took a lot of squeezing with players and I realized I had some nubs of plastic from the tree that was causing binding also. I think it’s finally dialed in enough to hit the track. I think I’ll have some minor tuning after that but at least I have a starting point. I’m definitely optimist at this point

I'm running the Fantom 13.5 HELIX RS - Works Edition, geared 78x26

Cole, check the shock lengths from the manual with some calipers, that might be your problem. Def sounds like something is not right in the front of the car, going to be hard to drive at 12mm!

@@DaveDriggs yeah it’s pretty much undrivable. I’ve verified everything with the book and everything is correct as far as I can tell. Unless I was given the wrong shock shafts 🤔

Thanks Ryan! You can use the lip they built into the front of the chassis stiffener to route the wires between the two sides. Here is a good post about it if you have Facebook.. facebook.com/groups/613839215466039/permalink/1163739960475959/

@@DaveDriggs thanks dude!

They went from a 12mm body to a 13mm body. Personally I think it was a solid improvement on both the 2wd and the 4wd. Back to back from 12 mm to 13 I could drive over bumps faster and the car felt much more planted on a bumpy track. Some drivers were not fans as it limited what springs and pistons could be used. As time passed folks have figured out how to use 12mm springs on the 13mm body (basically flip the collar around at the top and use the old pastic) so it's got more options now. VRP makes 13mm pistons now also which is what I've switched to. AE shocks on this car feel excellent, however I've only driven a few laps with the latest TLR 4wd. If you've liked the TRL more in the past I would bet that's going to feel great now also!

Thanks! Search for "AMIR Electric Screwdriver Cordless" on amazon. It's simple but I have one for my pit bag and one for the bench, not much $$. I use MIP bits and AE nut drivers for it.

Thanks brother 🙏

Definitely a good tuning option. If you can get your hands on some try it out and see if it works! Our track hasn't been as high grip to need them.

I've run the shorter in the rear with good luck. Check that out first and try the longer one if you need a bit more ride height

hi Sonny thanks for watching! So the knife is a MTech USA Spring Assisted Folding Knife and the screwdriver is the AMIR Electric Screwdriver. Both from amazon. The driver is cloned from several companies so you can pretty much pick the one that fits what you're after. I use all MIP bits for my driver and team associated nut drivers for the 7.0 and 5.5mm stuff.

Hey Thomas, I didn't have this issue with mine. AE support should be able to hook you up thou, they are usually good about drop shipping replacement parts.

Thanks for the feedback Greg!

Kit are plastic caps

Yes, all the AE 10th scale race kits have plastic shock caps. I have not seen any 13mm aftermarket metal / aluminum replacements for these yet. Guessing JConcepts will have some..

Thanks for checking it out! I used Kyosho diff gear seal grease. kyoshoamerica.com/xgs151.html

Mark, you will not be disappointed, had mine out club racing last night and had excellent results. The car has a massive amount of steering now with the gullwing setup, we've come a long way since the OG b74 days!

I am for sure going to shoot some follow up videos! Been testing some camera setups for the track, hopefully I can get some shots of this thing flying.