Why you need more than one table saw blade (Teeth matter!)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ส.ค. 2024
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Hey is a Porter Cable 4x24 Belt sander a good deal at $40.00? Its missing the dust bag' but was only used once.
Hey!!! So I have been watching your videos for about a year and trying to become a better woodworker !!
Thank you for ALL your tips tricks and tutorials!
I remember FTG as Follow The Grain to remember to use it for rip, and ATB as Across The Board
I like
Now this is a great reference video.
Excellent explanation from an experienced Woodworker...I took notes .love the channel 👍
i am not a woodworker, I am a school teacher but now i think had i met you earlier i would have a very good woodworker.You are great sir, I have crossed fifty can i be a woodworker now
I’m very much a newbie and even I understood every word you said. I have a ripping blade on my table, a cross cut blade on my mitre and a general purpose blade on my circular saw. Thank you very much indeed and I will save this video as a reference.
I could have used this video two weeks ago. Nice job. Thankfully I feel even better about my choices of new blades.
I am a car guy making and entrance to wood working and your videos are great information and assurance of success on my planned wood working. Moved from California to Oklahoma and want to make most of our furniture table, coffee table etc. I did all the woodwork on my jaguar MK ll which included veneer. Did it twice. Thank you for the information that encouraged me to also do wood work. 👍
A lot of good information within, will probably need to watch the video again, so keep up the good work.
Best in depth video for saw blades. Kudos
Excellent content, well paced, clear and concise. Many thanks from a newbie to wood working.
Thanks for sharing these pearls of wisdom. For me as a hobbyist, I guess time is not an issue and therefore a high tooth combo saw blade is best for a cleaner cut
I'm learning so much from you. Thanks for spending your time teaching me/us.
Thanks nubs. Great work and keep it up. Just getting into wood working and you’ve been a wealth of information.
Nicely and precisely explained!Thank You Stumpy Nubs
An excellent explanation of saw blades. I also appreciate the fact that you made it clear who sponsored the video. I’ve been critical of that in the past.
Thanks for your compliment, but we have always made it clear who sponsors our videos with giant, full-screen disclosures at the beginning of past videos. We are now including a little commercial at the end of some videos (like this one) because it's produces a more effective return for our sponsors, not because we somehow needed to make it any more clear that a video is sponsored.
Great info! Really appreciate the concise and informative advice on blades.
This video alone had me like, "Subscribe! Subscribe now!" I feel like we all know the basics of saw blades and teeth quantity, but this video was exhaustively awesome in explaining what I didn't already know about teeth and blades. Thanks, Stumpy!
Great video sir. I learned much. Thank you
Another great tutorial video James, thanks.
Excellent video, thanks. A very clear explanation. I have learnt a lot from this video.
Thank you for all of the great information.
Great information on all of your videos. Thank you.
I put a 120 tooth TCG on my saw a few years ago. I bought it thinking I would one day use it to cut metal with (it's what it was advertised for). But it has turned into my most favorite wood cutting blade. I got my $100 craftsman table saw as a Christmas present; worst present btw. I believe that saw has been recalled twice, but I still use it. I've learned to use it really slowly, as it is a really bad saw and it tends to trip the breaker easily. The TCG blade makes the best cuts I've ever seen. I get cabinet-acceptable cuts with it.
Your info is top notch. Thank you sir!
There is a ton of good info in this video. Thanks Stumpy!
Thank you! Just in time as I am heading out today to but new blades. Very informative as usual
Thanks James!
Thanks James, great information.
My first time here, loved the deets and like Joe Framer I also took notes!
very good and clear detailed explanation. need more informative video like this😁
Very informative! Saving for reference in the future.
another outstanding video with terms we can all understand!!
I'm not doing much construction, am back to woodworking/furniture, including hand-tools. Money is an issue. So for a "table-saw", the ShopSmith will have to do (finely tuned & checked frequently), with home-made outfeed, infeed, and side support. Sheet-goods, the occasional cuts in dimensional lumber, especially rip cuts? Track Saw. I've had the Shopsmith for 25+ years. Not getting a table saw leaves enough money for the track-saw and the fittings for the ShopSmith table supports. Leaves enough money for decent blades and extra mounts/arbors for faster blade changes. So thanks for this entire series!
Great tutorial. Thanks.
Great video! Right sequence. Thanks
Excellent as usual.Knew a lot of it,but as usual, learned some more good stuff
For a miter saw, I use a TCG non--ferrous material blade. You get a really clean 90. Very convenient.
For my table saw, I use a standard ripping blade since I cut a lot of cleats. I have a FTG blade as well. I save it for the nicer jobs that get notches cut in them.
Excellent video, thank you!
Great "cheat sheet" thanks, your videos help keep it up.
Well explained, great video!
this was great GREAT INFO knew all you said already but it was nice to hear it again coming from a genius
Very very good! Stored for future!
Great video! Lots of good info. Maybe a future video to discuss kerf, and the pros/cons of thin kerf blades for lower powered saws.
thanks for this valuable info
Awesome channel and amazing video like always... Keep up the good work
excellent info
Great info...thank you!
Great video. Thanks!
Thank you!
Good video. Back in the day it was simpler. You bought a crosscut, rip or a fine cutting planner blade.lol
Thanks for sharing !
Great video!
Nice! Thank you
Between you and Rob Cosman maybe I’ll improve my woodworking. Thanks 🙏
Thanks
Great video
Great video brother 👍👍
Ty so much
Excellent vid thank U
I've been using my Sears 10" radial arm since 1973. Today I learned that I ought to use negative-rake blades. I suppose it doesn't make a whole lot of difference, but still...
For years I thought more teeth equaled a better blade. It took me a while to wise up.
Incidentally, my first table saw ($99 no-brand) came with a four-tooth blade-if you can even grace it with the name. It was a flat, mild-steel plate with four chips of low-grade carbide poorly welded onto it 90 degrees apart. That it cut anything at all still amazes me.
Great video and information as always. James, do you have or would you consider putting together a quick printable guide with the information contained here? It would be a great handy reference in the shop.
That wold be awesome if he did
Our motto in the cabinet shop..”if it ain’t 120 ATB blade...you’re wrong!”
great video, thanks a ton! =D
Hey man could you do a video on bandsaw riser blocks?
I've been looking for one for my 14 inch craftsman bandsaw and I'm having trouble finding information on them, some help please.
Thanks. I learned a lot. I had thought that I should use a hollow ground blade to get a clean finish cut. By the way, what is a hollow ground blade good for?
Good thanks for that
An amazing amount of useful information. You have a great, clear presentation style. I need to review a few more times. I'll come back and check sawblades.com when I'm ready to get another blade.
Watched the series on table saws and found this video linked too. Still relatively new to woodworking and I have an old 9" delta table saw. Blades are not easy to find so I'm using a combination blade. Any recommendations on where to find this size? I've only seen them made by Freud and Forrest. But I figure there must be others and I just don't know where to look.
Thanks for mentioning negative hook and Miter saws or radial arm if you prefer). I have asked several where and which blades I could acquire NEGATIVE HOOK blades and I get blank stares or another launch in to reworded attempts at selling me the more expensive General Purpose blades. It seems even manufacturers don't bother putting the word out on them either because searching with negative hook in the search yields all possible blades with NO specific recommendations. Now ... where do you actually get a selection without heavy custom pricing?
Clyde Decker n
Can you please share with me the link for the sandpaper you mentioned for the 5” orbital sander in one of your videos
Yup. Im using my saw blades all wrong. Oh boy. Time to buy more tools!
Will my diablo dado blade work for ripping hard wood for a glue ready finish
What if I’m ripping 5/4 cedar boards, and I want to glue the halves together in an L to make legs. i want the cuts to be clean enough that the seam can’t be seen when they’re glued together. what kind of blade would be best for this?
I work for a large cabinet shop. Our double end has a left hand blade and a right hand blade. On the left hand blade it has three teeth going to the left and then one tooth going to the right. On the right hand blade it is just the opposite. Can you explain why ?
Negative hook blades can be hard to find. I've seen them made for dedicated metal cutting blades and for Trex decking blades, but I don't know if they'll also be ok for wood.
I have used -5 degree negative hook blades to rip many hundreds of thousands of miles of 2x4 at a feed rate of 85 feet per minute, fed continuously, butt to butt, to produce lath for lattice using a gang of 13 blades on a single arbor. The blades were .050 plate with .090 kerf that were custom made by the hundreds for our application. We experimented with hook angle and found that you can go as high -20 hook and still produce an acceptable product, but the horsepower requirement goes up. The video does not mention the chip size of the sawdust which depends upon your feed rate, which also determines the size of the gullet you need.
Hi James; I've been a subscriber for a couple years now.Frankly I get a little annoyed at many u-tubers/ woodworkers ( I use the term loosely here ) who think they can just put themselves out there and do crappy videos that lack in substance as well as quality, and before the video even starts they tell/ask you to thumbs up and subscribe. Then they say " if you have any comments or suggestions, to leave them below. Just earlier this week I was watching many videos to see the different methods guys were using to cut deep/wide notches in boards on projects. This one guy explained little about what he was doing or why and then "Wham" an earthquake hit his shop every time he used his screw gun,drill, hammer, I mean every time!, I could not continue to watch even though just out of curiosity I wanted to see what else was weird. I don't watch videos to find fault so I usually just say "Whew" and move on, not this time, I thought does he know this is happening, so I simply mentioned that the severe vibration on camera caused me to not finish watching.
His response, to my surprise was, "most people are like me and "not like you" (sorry that pissed me off a little) they just appreciate an average guy sharing his experiences (violins playing) and don't expect "Hollywood productions", besides I don't have all that fancy equipment, I am just using a phone and tripod. Are you kidding me! There was a DeWalt 13" planner, Huge DeWalt shop vac, a jointer, DeWalt screw guns ect,ect,ect. Sitting right behind him in the video. I don't even own either a planer or jointer (yet) I have watched a lot of videos with lesser equipment and none of them shook the video. Just his mistake, OK fine, but instead of just acknowledging the mistake and that he was working to correct it, he blamed me for pointing it out ( so much for comments below) and got defensive because he doesn't want other people who may read the comments to realise that he did something stupid and " not SUBSCRIBE". Any one who has a clue will see the character flaw and leave not to come back. He should know this, but because he doesn't he's not going anywhere anyway. WHEW. In case your still here, Thanks for knowing what you are talking about and sharing useful information with well made videos, And I don't care how many free tools, discounts or money one makes by doing this stuff! As long as you earn it!, This is America!
Regards; Bill in Grand Rapids MI.
Thanks, Bill!
What blade do you recommend for cutting hard board?
The only other thing I'd be curious to know is blade maintenance. Like, do I need to oil the blade at all? When do I know if it's dulled? How long should I use a blade: XXX amount of cuts or Y months/years? Thanks for the great video!
th-cam.com/video/xMVE8cXcoac/w-d-xo.html
Try finding a 254mm, (10") FTB blade with a 30mm bore in the UK! I'm going to hunt rainbow unicorns as they are probably easier to find!
Another great, informative video. One question: if I’m doing a lot of tenons, should I get a FTG blade?
I would. th-cam.com/video/PZXg5KA0P-Q/w-d-xo.html
Have you considered Patreon James??? I've only bought a couple of your plans, but would be willing to support through Patreon.
I’m working with wet waste wood from a saw mill. It’s mostly cedar, some fir and alder. Most is 1”*3”s I am cutting it both ways 1” & 3”s. I have already warped one bladed. What would be my best options.
Ps. I’m also looking for more information on saw blade kerf (thinner)
How did you warp the blade? Provided your fence is stable (& you've hopefully got a riving knife fitted), the only warping force should be coming from pressure against the front edge of the blade. If you're having to really shove the wood hard into it then you might want a more aggressive blade, or just slow right down on the feed rate. If you're getting binding (big strings of grain) then an ATB blade should help you slice through those more effectively than one with a flat edge.
As for thinner blades, I have found it's simply dangerous to try anything less than 3mm kerf on a table saw. A thinner blade will have a tendency to wobble or bend in the cut, which could cause all sorts of issues like binding, kickback, or at best dodgy accuracy over time. When I need to make the most of the wood I have, it's the bandsaw I turn to. A 1mm kerf on that is pretty standard & a little planing or sanding works out the rough finish. If you want it really smooth from a machine, you aren't likely to be able to reduce it to below 2.5-3mm of loss whatever you do, although Japanese pullsaws can leave a planed finish straight off the cut with only a 1mm kerf.
This is way better...
What's a good blade for 12" mitre saw for cutting baseboards, hardwoods, crown to get a good clean cut
Sergio Soto I use a 80tooth but you can get away with 60tooth
What blade for melamine and MDF?
Can you do a test on 2×4 both cross cut and rip twice for 80 tooth and other blades. Now for the two cuts, blade just threw the wood, the other blade all the way out . Then show a side view with the wood next to the blade to show how many teat are cutting at once and what it does to both speed and finish.
What blade would you choice for flooring vinyl plank
A cheap one with 60-80 teeth that you can toss when the job is done.
Why is Comibnation Table Saw blade not available in Europe?
I just purchased 100 teeth 10inch blade for my dewalt table saw...can i used it as universal blade or shld exchange it for a 50t ??
100 teeth is a lot for a general purpose blade. That will work well for nice crosscuts, but it will not work well for ripping along the grain.
Wonderful video
My friend I have some questions pls
1. Can I use Aluminium Cutting blade for Wood cutting ? IT'S 12 inch with 100 teeth
2. Can I use miter saw blade for a table saw ?
3. If 3 teeth of 100 teeth don't have carbide edge , does this mean the blade can't be used ?
And thanks .
1. The answer depends on what you are cutting and the shape of the tooth. Much of the information you need is in this video.
2. Yes, but tooth shape and count matter. It will likely work well for crosscuts, but not as well for rip cuts.
3. If the carbide has come off 3 teeth, there are likely other teeth damaged. You do not want a piece of carbide flying off while you are using it. Get a new blade.
@@StumpyNubs thank you very much
What’s the deal with plywood blades having 100 teeth and no carbide tips.
And here I tough ATB stood for "André Tanneberger"
...silly me.
👍
I’m more confused than ever
I just had two of my teeth removed
You're lucky - I had 6 removed and my mouth is very saw.
I just got several crowns and my teeth are moulding.
Me, who understands that getting a better blade for the job will improve everything: No
The first thing I did when I bought my table saw was install a ripping blade. The only times I use a general purpose blade is to cut foam board insulation. Ripping is 95% of what a table saw does. 4% is cutting dados and less than 1% is crosscuts. I use a track saw with a plywood blade for cutting plywood and a miter saw with a crosscut blade for most crosscuts.
Make a crosscut sled and your assertion that less than 1% of cuts on a table saw are crosscuts gets super inaccurate.
NO DOWN VOTES!! Yah...