If you need help finding any of the blades that I talked about, they are all categorized and linked in the video description. Also keep in mind that these things are guidelines, not necessarily the rules. With advancements in technology manufacturers have figured out how to do some pretty interesting things with blade geometry. One more thing with regards to SawStop owners: The blue Amana blades and the red Freud blades are perfectly acceptable to use in your SawStop table saw. Contrary to popular belief, you can use painted or coated blades on your SawStop saw and the brake will work as advertised. It's the blade TEETH that cannot be covered because it can interfere with the electrical signal and therefore limit how fast the blade brake can activate. Some Amana coatings do cover the teeth but are still safe to use, as per Amana. (The CMT thin kerf rip blade has anti-kickback shoulders so technically it is advised not to be used in a SawStop because the anti-kickback shoulders could limit the speed at which the brake can stop the blade if things go south.) As always, if in doubt do what makes you comfortable.
You do have to spend some time setting the saw up... blade, fence, etc. But once done, the saw is great. Fairly compact which is Nice th-cam.com/users/postUgkxXh-4_3-ZT1fFWP91ZV7iVqzElr0lEb-a I did get an Incra Miter Gauge which takes some setup as well. The stock miter gauge can be adjusted in the miter slot with a little painter's tape... this tightens up the side to side play a lot.
Awesome, my son ruined his saw trying to rip wet PT lumber because he didn't have a ripping blade. He was a newbie then and this will help him round out blades and allow us to have Christmas present options.
Thank you for the time you've put into this video. I'll be reviewing it several more times to absorb the information. I've been out of woodworking for a long time and this gives me a good entry point for learning blades again.
That was a good point made at the end concerning the long-term usage - if you use six combination blades consecutively over, say, a three year period, then using six different blades concurrently will probably last longer and at the end of the time you’ve still only used six blades but you’ve probably had cleaner cuts..
One of the best saw blade videos on the toobs. Despite the clear and deep information given, my favorite part was the saw blades changing subtly in the intro. Clever and well executed. Thank you sir.
I just recently ordered some blades from Taylor Tools and this video helped reinforce that they were indeed good purchases. I look forward to having them arrive and start using them. Thank you for making this video!
Very good information. I had no idea there were so many different blades - I always used a combination blade. I’m gonna have to watch this a few more times for sure.
This is now my go to reference source for an explanation on blades. Yeah, there are a lot of options out there, and I tend to be very selective with my purchases, so this is really helpful to make informed decisions.
Great info. Thanks for putting this together for us. I will probably go back through and watch this a couple more times and make some notes before buying another blade. I just bought a 60 tooth combination blade from Freud. I always assumed the combo blade was all I needed. Something to do it all, right? I now understand that I really do need more than just the one type. Now that I can understand what I am buying, and why....I'll be a little more picky about what I get. As always, thanks for taking the time to film, edit and share your knowledge with us. I really dig this channel because of what it is. :-)
Great editing. I have an older Craftsman saw. The gentleman I bought it from threw in a bunch of new blades. One was a 60 tooth Freud and the other was a 30 tooth Craftsman rip blade. I use a zero clearance insert and/or a crosscut sled. Lately I just leave the 30 tooth rip blade on the saw and find it leaves just as nice a cut as the Freud no matter the type of cut I'm making. Maybe I've just been lucky so far or maybe just using too much cheap lumber. When I get upgrade my saw I'll look into other blade configurations but, for now it works for me. Thanks for the videos.
Thanks for sharing your insight into the bewildering world of blade choice! I've recently been working with reclaimed oak, and, whilst I can rip it with my tracksaw or circular saw, it is a real struggle on my table saw. It came with a 10" multi material blade, which I changed almost immediately for a general purpose blade that worked really well with MDF and other soft materials, but just about set the oak on fire. Given the current price of wood in general, and hardwood in particular, I quickly realized that it would make sense to invest in a dedicated ripping blade. You always hear that low tooth count and aggressive tooth angle are essential for burn-free, straight cuts when ripping, but I have often seen advice pointing in the direction of 40, 50, and sometimes higher count ripping blades. I notice you, too, are showing similarly high tooth-count blades for ripping. In my experience, working with oak worktops and fitting solid wood doors, the lower the tooth-count, the cleaner the rip cut. I'm based in Scotland, so most of the blades you recommend will not be available over here, or will have different monikers. That said, again, a big thank you for sharing! 👍
GREAT educational video - I just bought two of the blades you reviewed. I just bought the DeWALT 7491 saw and although it has a 2hp motor and should be ok with full kerf, I decided to use the thin kerf blades with a blade 5" blade stabilizer. I have now bought several items.. double stick tape, etc ... as a result of these excellent videos. Larry
Excellent presentation. Answered some questions that I had. And this will solve for me some issues that I have had. In particular when cutting thin plastics and melamine. Thanks so much. I tend to use my Worm Saw and sometimes my Sidewinder to cut down sheet stock. Just to make it easier to manage on my Cabinet Saw. A video examining blade choices and what I can do with different blades for those saws I would also find useful. I don't use mine just to cut construction Spruce. I cut, once again plastics, melamine and wood species I am using to make furniture and a variety of projects. A look at blade choices there would be valuable as well. I think most people tend to use the blade that came with your hand power saw because they aren't concerned with razor accuracy or pretty cuts when using such saws in a construction environment. Maybe I'm just a rarity. Really enjoy your videos, thanks again.
For this novice the Forest Woodworker blade is beyond what I’m willing to pay, so I REALLY appreciate the fact that you gave us two reasonably priced alternatives in the comments. That’s super helpful and demonstrates one of the reasons I watch the channel - you have a thoughtful approach to it all.
Great job all good information 👍, I use a Ridge Carbide blade in my table saw, and I love it. I would compare it to the Forrest Wood worker II, as far as performance but it is a little cheaper. It can be sharpened too.
When it comes to multiple blades I found out the hard way the table saw that you have makes a big difference. The very first table saw I owned was a fourth hand cheap one with a small frame and top. It was a massive pain to change blades so I never did. When I got my DeWalt 7491 it's so easy I swear it only takes a minute. So now I change blades often for which ever is best for the project and wood.
I own some amana tool prestige saw blades and dang I think they are awesome blades for the price. I started with a combination blade and then went for a ripping blade (glue line 30tooth) and finally I got a 80t abt for crosscuts and plywood and I have never regret spending those extra bucks. They are very very good blades for the money
A friend managed a cabinet shop for a hospital system, where they make all of the hospitals' cabinetry in-house. They solved the blade changing issue by lining up 5 tablesaws in a row with different blades. They monitor sharpness of the blades by measuring the motor's amperage draw - a dull blade requires more power. Oh, and for that 1950s DeWalt RAS in the background, a 9" thin-kerf sliding compound miter saw blade is a good choice.
In my experience the Amana 60 tooth blade (full kerf) is a great general purpose blade. It's the blade I used 80% of the time. The other blade I used is a high quality 40 tooth flat bottom rip blade. Great for joinery and rip cuts. I think the home gamer only needs two blades. I'd avoid any the big box stores sell.
Great info as always, JODEE, lol. But that blade changing during the video was messing with me! Keep up the great work, man. We appreciate you.... and I absolutely love my CMT dado stack.
That's a lot of post edit. I'm sure he took a bunch of shots and overlaid them by extending that picture through the length of the video. Attention to detail... love it!
Whether I'm looking to purchase or curious and I'm sure this applies to many...to say the price of each blade really helps to narrow down what might be best for me. For myself it's not about how much I have to spend but how much I need to put aside or save to get what I think is the best possible tool in my range.
Also be sure to take your blades off of "slideshow" before starting your saw. It can be very dangerous to have a rip blade change to a plywood blade mid cut.
I use the CMT Orange Chrome Carbide 12" Full Kerf Heavy Duty Crosscut Blade, 72 Teeth, Alternate Top Bevel Grind, 0.126” Kerf 285.672.12 on my Dewalt DWD780 Miter and it is the best blade I have put on it. It cuts clean, fast and it is actually a little bit quieter. Sorry, it is not what this video is about, but since you mentioned it, I thought I would agree with you choice of miter saw blades.
A very good collection of useful information. I'm going to have to go through the video again with a notebook and pause button. Are most of these available in low hook angle versions? I use a Radial Arm Saw exclusively - a 40-year old 10 inch Craftsman. (I noticed your old DeWalt lurking in the background ... envious.)
Thru the years I have used a lot of freud blades with consistent performance but for the last 5-6 years I have gravitated to using only forest or ridge carbide. in my shop. Both are well worth the extra $$$'s. Both can be resharpend for very little $$$.
great video with a lot of information. I've been using a lot more baltic birch plywood and I am looking for a good finish cut and would also like a single blade to do dados if I needed to. Which one or two would you recommend for my table saw?
90% of the time I have a Freud Heavy Duty Rip on my saw. I need to invest in a good cross cut and plywood blade. I might try tha Ammana, but Freud has been very good to me. My Freud dado stack is outstanding
As a pro. I actually have two or even three of each. Mostly because if I have sent some in for sharpening I still have what I need to get the job done. Also try a full kerf 60 tooth triple chip for cross cutting plywood. Triple chip blades that are 80 and 60 tooth are also great for cutting laminate and melamine products. Have a good one.
This year I decided to purchase better quality blades, I picked up full kerf and thin, some CMT and a couple from Infinity. Changing the blade doesn't take any time to do, also adding zero clearance throat plates where I can.
I would have thought some advice concerning blade thickness and riving knife thickness would have been mentioned. In any case make sure your riving knife is thicker than the saw blade but thinner than the kerf.
Hello Sir. This was an excellent tutorial. I could not find 81/4 blade for my Dewalt table saw with the same manufacturers which you recommended. Is it possible that that they do not make one for my saw size ? Please advice. Thanks
Just bought my first table saw, the Dewalt 7491rs and I want to get a better blade than the stock one but I’m still not sure what is better the 50T ATB, 50T ATBR, or 40T general purpose? I see eventually getting dedicated rip and crosscut blades, but for now one blade is in the budget.
Is there some kind of program CMT runs for youtubers? I'm glad you mentioned the Freud blade, I was very unsatisfied with CMT. For instance, I bought a 24 tooth, full kerf CMT. It has half the carbide thickness as my Freud, and stayed sharp less than half as long.
Thanks for a great review! what amount of teeth on a blade would you recommend for clean ripping of plywood? I know small amount of teeth is better for ripping, but when it comes to quality of the cut.. is it the same ?
Nice video. I have a question: Is it useful or overkill to have 2 circular saws, on with a special blade for ripping and one with a special blade for crosscutting, because i don't like swapping blades, making the circular saw screw dull. Hope to hear from you soon. Many thanks in advance
Hello, Did you als consider that some tooths have a difference in height. So you will not get a crisp flat bottom in a groove or on a tenon. I like your chanel very much. Looking forward to the next Ruben
Please help! Where can I buy a circular saw blade for my table saw that has a flat cut/flat bottom grind/flat top grind I’m in the UK As we are not allowed dado stacks in the UK I want a blade to fit my new dewalt DWE7910 so that I can cross cut half laps on the table saw using the multiple cut method. Blade criteria is 10” (250mm) diameter 30mm bore I can’t seem to find one anywhere or there is not enough information on the website about the tooth profile. I have found a Freud blade which would be perfect but not for easy sale online it’s the Freud LU1E 0100
I stepped up to CMT when I became unhappy with Diablo. Good quality thin kerf blades that won’t break the bank. I have the rip, crosscut, and combo blades you showed. I am not delighted with my Freud dado set but don’t use it that much, will give the CMT a look when I am ready to replace it, Does anyone have experience with CMT router and Forster bits?
I am also interested in cmt router bits, reading good reviews about them but dont have any, only Trend. Titman, Freud and CMT seem to be recomended bits for professional use, but again, I dont have any personal experience with them yet.
What type of blade would you recommend to rip 3/4" fire rated plywood on a table saw. And what blade do you recommend to rip 3/4" finish plywood on a table saw. And why type of blades do you recommend both on a tablesaw
Great overview, thanks Jodee. How often do you actually change blades? I'm usually so pressed for time i just stick to the combo blade for ripping and cross-cuts, no matter whether plywood, softwood, or hardwood. I often jump from a rip to a cross cut (using a sled) in a matter of seconds. Do you actually stop and change blades between rips and cross cuts?
For me personally, I keep my combo blade in most of the time but if I know I'm going to be doing a good bit of rip cuts then I swap and the same thing for crosscuts.
I am always concerned about the occasional screws and nails in the wood that I am cutting. So would the problem with me using a steel cutting blade as a permanent all-purpose wood cutting blade?
Lovely video, and although I had a pretty good idea about many of these aspects I still got a few things cleared up. One thing though- I'm curious why the rake tooth on the Freud doesn't make the blade plow a flat-bottomed groove?
Thank you for watching. The raker tooth doesn't stick as far out as the ATB teeth so it leaves the little dog-eared corners. I was so bummed about that but like I said, it's a wonderful blade otherwise.
@@InspireWoodcraft Oh oh. I plan on buying the CMT 215.050.10 for this exact same reason. Curious if it's tooth is lower as well. Off to research again.
I think because some blades have a difference in height. For instance some CMT blades have a 0.3 or a 0.5 mm heightdifference. Perhaps the Freud blade also? Ruben
@@InspireWoodcraft only reason I remembered is that I scrubbed my 50 tooth freud saturday. Which also reminds me, I need better gloves for that. Pokey little devils.
@@roscocsa Cleaning is about ⅔ as good as an actual sharpening. Give them a good soak when you're done with a project and next time you start with a blade that seems almost sharpened. I was surprised at how much better the cut quality was from simply cleaning.
@@EricMcWhirter interesting ... I use a Radial Arm Saw exclusively & had been thinking of a thin kerf blade. Since the saw's splitter in s not replaceable, I will have to consider filing the splitter's front edge to a wedge shape to accommodate a thinner blade.
All high end blade manufacturers have a blade for melamine that doesn't require first scoring the melamine. They claim all edges will be clean with those speciality blades. What's your take on those.
wish you great success, just try not to too fast speaking, remember there a lot of non-native English speakers all around the world, even more than in america itself.
If you need help finding any of the blades that I talked about, they are all categorized and linked in the video description. Also keep in mind that these things are guidelines, not necessarily the rules. With advancements in technology manufacturers have figured out how to do some pretty interesting things with blade geometry.
One more thing with regards to SawStop owners: The blue Amana blades and the red Freud blades are perfectly acceptable to use in your SawStop table saw. Contrary to popular belief, you can use painted or coated blades on your SawStop saw and the brake will work as advertised. It's the blade TEETH that cannot be covered because it can interfere with the electrical signal and therefore limit how fast the blade brake can activate. Some Amana coatings do cover the teeth but are still safe to use, as per Amana. (The CMT thin kerf rip blade has anti-kickback shoulders so technically it is advised not to be used in a SawStop because the anti-kickback shoulders could limit the speed at which the brake can stop the blade if things go south.) As always, if in doubt do what makes you comfortable.
You do have to spend some time setting the saw up... blade, fence, etc. But once done, the saw is great. Fairly compact which is Nice th-cam.com/users/postUgkxXh-4_3-ZT1fFWP91ZV7iVqzElr0lEb-a I did get an Incra Miter Gauge which takes some setup as well. The stock miter gauge can be adjusted in the miter slot with a little painter's tape... this tightens up the side to side play a lot.
Awesome, my son ruined his saw trying to rip wet PT lumber because he didn't have a ripping blade. He was a newbie then and this will help him round out blades and allow us to have Christmas present options.
Loved the intro. If only blades were that easy swap out in real life.
Thank you for the time you've put into this video. I'll be reviewing it several more times to absorb the information. I've been out of woodworking for a long time and this gives me a good entry point for learning blades again.
That was a good point made at the end concerning the long-term usage - if you use six combination blades consecutively over, say, a three year period, then using six different blades concurrently will probably last longer and at the end of the time you’ve still only used six blades but you’ve probably had cleaner cuts..
One of the best saw blade videos on the toobs. Despite the clear and deep information given, my favorite part was the saw blades changing subtly in the intro. Clever and well executed. Thank you sir.
I just recently ordered some blades from Taylor Tools and this video helped reinforce that they were indeed good purchases. I look forward to having them arrive and start using them. Thank you for making this video!
Very good information. I had no idea there were so many different blades - I always used a combination blade. I’m gonna have to watch this a few more times for sure.
This is now my go to reference source for an explanation on blades. Yeah, there are a lot of options out there, and I tend to be very selective with my purchases, so this is really helpful to make informed decisions.
Blade flashing at the beginning of the video was cool😂
I love the magical blade changes in the intro! Good stuff man.
Beautiful shots. Your video quality is always getting better and better
Great info. Thanks for putting this together for us. I will probably go back through and watch this a couple more times and make some notes before buying another blade. I just bought a 60 tooth combination blade from Freud. I always assumed the combo blade was all I needed. Something to do it all, right? I now understand that I really do need more than just the one type. Now that I can understand what I am buying, and why....I'll be a little more picky about what I get. As always, thanks for taking the time to film, edit and share your knowledge with us. I really dig this channel because of what it is. :-)
Great editing. I have an older Craftsman saw. The gentleman I bought it from threw in a bunch of new blades. One was a 60 tooth Freud and the other was a 30 tooth Craftsman rip blade. I use a zero clearance insert and/or a crosscut sled. Lately I just leave the 30 tooth rip blade on the saw and find it leaves just as nice a cut as the Freud no matter the type of cut I'm making. Maybe I've just been lucky so far or maybe just using too much cheap lumber. When I get upgrade my saw I'll look into other blade configurations but, for now it works for me. Thanks for the videos.
Thanks for sharing your insight into the bewildering world of blade choice! I've recently been working with reclaimed oak, and, whilst I can rip it with my tracksaw or circular saw, it is a real struggle on my table saw.
It came with a 10" multi material blade, which I changed almost immediately for a general purpose blade that worked really well with MDF and other soft materials, but just about set the oak on fire.
Given the current price of wood in general, and hardwood in particular, I quickly realized that it would make sense to invest in a dedicated ripping blade.
You always hear that low tooth count and aggressive tooth angle are essential for burn-free, straight cuts when ripping, but I have often seen advice pointing in the direction of 40, 50, and sometimes higher count ripping blades.
I notice you, too, are showing similarly high tooth-count blades for ripping. In my experience, working with oak worktops and fitting solid wood doors, the lower the tooth-count, the cleaner the rip cut.
I'm based in Scotland, so most of the blades you recommend will not be available over here, or will have different monikers. That said, again, a big thank you for sharing! 👍
GREAT educational video - I just bought two of the blades you reviewed. I just bought the DeWALT 7491 saw and although it has a 2hp motor and should be ok with full kerf, I decided to use the thin kerf blades with a blade 5" blade stabilizer. I have now bought several items.. double stick tape, etc ... as a result of these excellent videos. Larry
Excellent presentation. Answered some questions that I had. And this will solve for me some issues that I have had. In particular when cutting thin plastics and melamine. Thanks so much.
I tend to use my Worm Saw and sometimes my Sidewinder to cut down sheet stock. Just to make it easier to manage on my Cabinet Saw. A video examining blade choices and what I can do with different blades for those saws I would also find useful. I don't use mine just to cut construction Spruce. I cut, once again plastics, melamine and wood species I am using to make furniture and a variety of projects. A look at blade choices there would be valuable as well. I think most people tend to use the blade that came with your hand power saw because they aren't concerned with razor accuracy or pretty cuts when using such saws in a construction environment. Maybe I'm just a rarity. Really enjoy your videos, thanks again.
For this novice the Forest Woodworker blade is beyond what I’m willing to pay, so I REALLY appreciate the fact that you gave us two reasonably priced alternatives in the comments. That’s super helpful and demonstrates one of the reasons I watch the channel - you have a thoughtful approach to it all.
Thanks for sharing helped me for sure what blades I was going to invest in
Thanks, Good over view of blade types, construction, and applications.
Very useful as I have learned to expect. I have several excellent blades but I had to force myself to change blades more often.
The video was helpful, thank you for sharing this information
Really fantastic tips, dude! Thanks a lot! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thanks Really helped me understand blades more
Great video and information as usual bud!
And I had to do a double take as I wasn’t sure the blades were changing in the intro. Nice effect. Lol
Great job all good information 👍, I use a Ridge Carbide blade in my table saw, and I love it. I would compare it to the Forrest Wood worker II, as far as performance but it is a little cheaper. It can be sharpened too.
Great video. Thank you I learned so much from you. 👍🏻👍🏻
When it comes to multiple blades I found out the hard way the table saw that you have makes a big difference. The very first table saw I owned was a fourth hand cheap one with a small frame and top. It was a massive pain to change blades so I never did. When I got my DeWalt 7491 it's so easy I swear it only takes a minute. So now I change blades often for which ever is best for the project and wood.
I own some amana tool prestige saw blades and dang I think they are awesome blades for the price.
I started with a combination blade and then went for a ripping blade (glue line 30tooth) and finally I got a 80t abt for crosscuts and plywood and I have never regret spending those extra bucks. They are very very good blades for the money
Simply; Thank You for this video, I learned a lot from it.
Excellent breakdown, usable info. With all those blades you need 3 saws or a saw with a fast blade change feature.
Ton of great info here!
A friend managed a cabinet shop for a hospital system, where they make all of the hospitals' cabinetry in-house. They solved the blade changing issue by lining up 5 tablesaws in a row with different blades. They monitor sharpness of the blades by measuring the motor's amperage draw - a dull blade requires more power. Oh, and for that 1950s DeWalt RAS in the background, a 9" thin-kerf sliding compound miter saw blade is a good choice.
In my experience the Amana 60 tooth blade (full kerf) is a great general purpose blade. It's the blade I used 80% of the time. The other blade I used is a high quality 40 tooth flat bottom rip blade. Great for joinery and rip cuts.
I think the home gamer only needs two blades. I'd avoid any the big box stores sell.
Once again Great Video. With some interesting views of the blade teeth rotating.
I'm sure not too many ppl noticed the blades switching during the intro and the seamless editing. Nice job sir
Great Information, thanks!
Great info as always, JODEE, lol. But that blade changing during the video was messing with me! Keep up the great work, man. We appreciate you.... and I absolutely love my CMT dado stack.
HAHA! Well played, Mark. Thank you, sir.
That's a lot of post edit. I'm sure he took a bunch of shots and overlaid them by extending that picture through the length of the video. Attention to detail... love it!
Very helpful and we can get most of those blades in the UK too.👍
Very helpful! Thank you.
Whether I'm looking to purchase or curious and I'm sure this applies to many...to say the price of each blade really helps to narrow down what might be best for me. For myself it's not about how much I have to spend but how much I need to put aside or save to get what I think is the best possible tool in my range.
thank you very infomative for our woodworker !
Thanks for sharing that!
Thank You For The Great Info!!!! 👍😎
Also be sure to take your blades off of "slideshow" before starting your saw.
It can be very dangerous to have a rip blade change to a plywood blade mid cut.
??
more explanation please, Jason Lee
thanks
it's funny how efficiency advancements you once thought you couldn't live without, now just seem to get in the way
@@kmartin7607 If you watch the video closely, you'll notice the blades keep changing as he's talking. I wish mine changed that easily.
Good information! Any plans to do a video on sharpening the blades you just talked about?
Thanks for the detailed description. Now to find someone to sharpen blades without charging near the cost of the blade itself.
I use the CMT Orange Chrome Carbide 12" Full Kerf Heavy Duty Crosscut Blade, 72 Teeth, Alternate Top Bevel Grind, 0.126” Kerf 285.672.12 on my Dewalt DWD780 Miter and it is the best blade I have put on it. It cuts clean, fast and it is actually a little bit quieter. Sorry, it is not what this video is about, but since you mentioned it, I thought I would agree with you choice of miter saw blades.
A very good collection of useful information. I'm going to have to go through the video again with a notebook and pause button.
Are most of these available in low hook angle versions? I use a Radial Arm Saw exclusively - a 40-year old 10 inch Craftsman. (I noticed your old DeWalt lurking in the background ... envious.)
nice blade swaps in the intro 😉
Thru the years I have used a lot of freud blades with consistent performance but for the last 5-6 years I have gravitated to using only forest or ridge carbide. in my shop. Both are well worth the extra $$$'s. Both can be resharpend for very little $$$.
Thanks for mentioning Ridge. I haven't had a chance to try any of their stuff but have never heard a bad thing about them.
Thanks ☺️
Good info! Not all blades are created equal
great video with a lot of information. I've been using a lot more baltic birch plywood and I am looking for a good finish cut and would also like a single blade to do dados if I needed to. Which one or two would you recommend for my table saw?
Left handers; the best😎👍
90% of the time I have a Freud Heavy Duty Rip on my saw. I need to invest in a good cross cut and plywood blade. I might try tha Ammana, but Freud has been very good to me. My Freud dado stack is outstanding
Thank you
As a pro. I actually have two or even three of each. Mostly because if I have sent some in for sharpening I still have what I need to get the job done. Also try a full kerf 60 tooth triple chip for cross cutting plywood. Triple chip blades that are 80 and 60 tooth are also great for cutting laminate and melamine products. Have a good one.
I like the blades self changing table saw :-D
This is gold, thank you.
This year I decided to purchase better quality blades, I picked up full kerf and thin, some CMT and a couple from Infinity. Changing the blade doesn't take any time to do, also adding zero clearance throat plates where I can.
I would have thought some advice concerning blade thickness and riving knife thickness would have been mentioned. In any case make sure your riving knife is thicker than the saw blade but thinner than the kerf.
Thank you for sharing but i want to ask, Is 24 teeth Ftg blade will work for rabbit and groove jointry in plywood, hardwood. Thank you
Hello Sir. This was an excellent tutorial. I could not find 81/4 blade for my Dewalt table saw with the same manufacturers which you recommended. Is it possible that that they do not make one for my saw size ? Please advice. Thanks
I searched your video back catalog to find the one where you discuss that lovely old Dewalt radial arm saw behind you and I sadly cannot find it.
Just bought my first table saw, the Dewalt 7491rs and I want to get a better blade than the stock one but I’m still not sure what is better the 50T ATB, 50T ATBR, or 40T general purpose? I see eventually getting dedicated rip and crosscut blades, but for now one blade is in the budget.
Is there some kind of program CMT runs for youtubers? I'm glad you mentioned the Freud blade, I was very unsatisfied with CMT. For instance, I bought a 24 tooth, full kerf CMT. It has half the carbide thickness as my Freud, and stayed sharp less than half as long.
Thanks for a great review! what amount of teeth on a blade would you recommend for clean ripping of plywood? I know small amount of teeth is better for ripping, but when it comes to quality of the cut.. is it the same ?
Nice video. I have a question: Is it useful or overkill to have 2 circular saws, on with a special blade for ripping and one with a special blade for crosscutting, because i don't like swapping blades, making the circular saw screw dull. Hope to hear from you soon. Many thanks in advance
What's your professional opinion on the newer CMT Orange Chrome line? How would you say they compare to Forrest or Amana Prestige line?
Thanks. Very helpful video. 🇦🇺👴🏻
Hello,
Did you als consider that some tooths have a difference in height.
So you will not get a crisp flat bottom in a groove or on a tenon.
I like your chanel very much.
Looking forward to the next
Ruben
Could you do a video of the best silen blades
Please help! Where can I buy a circular saw blade for my table saw that has a flat cut/flat bottom grind/flat top grind
I’m in the UK
As we are not allowed dado stacks in the UK I want a blade to fit my new dewalt DWE7910 so that I can cross cut half laps on the table saw using the multiple cut method.
Blade criteria is
10” (250mm) diameter
30mm bore
I can’t seem to find one anywhere or there is not enough information on the website about the tooth profile.
I have found a Freud blade which would be perfect but not for easy sale online it’s the
Freud LU1E 0100
I stepped up to CMT when I became unhappy with Diablo. Good quality thin kerf blades that won’t break the bank. I have the rip, crosscut, and combo blades you showed. I am not delighted with my Freud dado set but don’t use it that much, will give the CMT a look when I am ready to replace it, Does anyone have experience with CMT router and Forster bits?
I am also interested in cmt router bits, reading good reviews about them but dont have any, only Trend. Titman, Freud and CMT seem to be recomended bits for professional use, but again, I dont have any personal experience with them yet.
0:18 “To be fair...” Let that marinate.
What type of blade would you recommend to rip 3/4" fire rated plywood on a table saw. And what blade do you recommend to rip 3/4" finish plywood on a table saw. And why type of blades do you recommend both on a tablesaw
Thanks, good job. Now to go spend more money 🤑. $600 for 3 sheets of plywood, nice to know what to cut it with.
Great overview, thanks Jodee. How often do you actually change blades? I'm usually so pressed for time i just stick to the combo blade for ripping and cross-cuts, no matter whether plywood, softwood, or hardwood. I often jump from a rip to a cross cut (using a sled) in a matter of seconds. Do you actually stop and change blades between rips and cross cuts?
For me personally, I keep my combo blade in most of the time but if I know I'm going to be doing a good bit of rip cuts then I swap and the same thing for crosscuts.
How do you clean your blades?
I am always concerned about the occasional screws and nails in the wood that I am cutting. So would the problem with me using a steel cutting blade as a permanent all-purpose wood cutting blade?
Lovely video, and although I had a pretty good idea about many of these aspects I still got a few things cleared up.
One thing though- I'm curious why the rake tooth on the Freud doesn't make the blade plow a flat-bottomed groove?
Thank you for watching. The raker tooth doesn't stick as far out as the ATB teeth so it leaves the little dog-eared corners. I was so bummed about that but like I said, it's a wonderful blade otherwise.
@@InspireWoodcraft Oh oh. I plan on buying the CMT 215.050.10 for this exact same reason. Curious if it's tooth is lower as well. Off to research again.
I think because some blades have a difference in height.
For instance some CMT blades have a 0.3 or a 0.5 mm heightdifference.
Perhaps the Freud blade also?
Ruben
What blade do you recommend for MDF?
I've never seen so many blades in my life lol
keep em clean too.
I knew there was something that I forgot to mention.
@@InspireWoodcraft only reason I remembered is that I scrubbed my 50 tooth freud saturday. Which also reminds me, I need better gloves for that. Pokey little devils.
@@roscocsa Cleaning is about ⅔ as good as an actual sharpening. Give them a good soak when you're done with a project and next time you start with a blade that seems almost sharpened. I was surprised at how much better the cut quality was from simply cleaning.
@@jeffhayford8879 i know there is an awful lot less burning.
Why is Comibnation Table Saw blade not available in Europe?
cmt has two dado stacks the 12 tooth amd 24 tooth, wondering which one you have?
I have the 24T.
Whaaat??? Dude, is there a wormhole in your saw's throat plate or something? Those blades changing cyclically blew my mind clean out of my head!
FS Tool, SM6300
Another problem is wobbling of circular saws
Sir, does the blade thickness needs to be the same thickness as your riving knife for this to work properly?
Yes, say you are using a thin kerf blade but have a full kerf riving knife installed, you will hit the riving knife with your stock.
@@EricMcWhirter thank you sir. Ill start looking for riving knife that match the thickness of blades I’ll be using.
@@EricMcWhirter interesting ... I use a Radial Arm Saw exclusively & had been thinking of a thin kerf blade. Since the saw's splitter in s not replaceable, I will have to consider filing the splitter's front edge to a wedge shape to accommodate a thinner blade.
how the hell did you do that editing? How do I learn your video trickery?
مشترك من العراق 🇮🇶👍
Try a blade from FS Tool. You’ll never go back to the fancy colored ones.
All high end blade manufacturers have a blade for melamine that doesn't require first scoring the melamine. They claim all edges will be clean with those speciality blades. What's your take on those.
You don't like/use Diablo blades?
wish you great success, just try not to too fast speaking, remember there a lot of non-native English speakers all around the world, even more than in america itself.
There will be a quiz later 😁
Oh man, your radial arm is turned aside. I can hear the tears.