Well...this video was very informative and helpful. Thank you for posting it! I will say that if this door breaks again...I'll sell the truck before I go through this chore again. Of course I have the da*M amp so it was much harder. I did remove the main right side dash trim by removing screws and just easing the right side down a bit. With this trim moved I was able to get in and do the job. I hit Harbor Freight and bought some specialized screwdrivers (small knob type and the angled ratchet type) to get to those difficult screws. Also had to unscrew the amp and slide it out of the way - held by 3 10mm bolts...it moves just enough.
I have seen several videos on TH-cam. I think this one is probably the best out there. I just did mine today . Follwed the step by step and worked fine.. Couple points . The end peice I used needle nose pulled straight out.. The old blend door: there is a deeper part of that compartment way at the top where you have room to turn the blend door vertical in order to get out. Thanks
Thank you for this detailed and outstanding video...I have seen many videos and yours just made sense instead of cutting things up or removing the dash. I have a 06 Dodge Hemi 1500 and the only part I had trouble with was the plastic pin/axle. I finally used a really small needle nose pliers and just gripped the sidewall of the axle pin where the actuator motor goes into and out it came. Sure is nice to have the a/c blowing cold and quieter. Many thanks again...
Clear, easy to understand video. However, could not get to the actuator screws because my 2006 Dodge Ram Mega Cab Laramie had a factory amp installed right in front of them. Yikes.
So what malfunction caused you to replace this particular door? I have a 2006 Cummins Ram 3500 and I'm not getting heat to the driver's side. Which door would you think is MY problem? Anyone have an answer?
Ever figure it out Dan? I have the same issue on my '07 2500 Hemi SLT. Doesn't have controls for dual climate zones but the passenger side blows cold, driver's doesn't.
If you have the upgraded stereo with the factory amplifier, your in for it. Can’t get to the actuator screws without removing the amp. Hours my friend, hours.
Thank you for the detail and easy follow video. I have a question about the axle/pin. Do i need position how the door goes into the axle or needs to put on certain position on the air direction switch when installing the door? Thank you.
junda6 Sorry for late reply. The computer will go full open and close on start up, it will then figured out what position the door is. As far as what side of door faces what, I put the foam facing inward for good seal. Hope this answers your question. If not, let me know. Cheers.
I was told by a shop they have to tear the entire hvac ducting out to do this job, for $800 plus parts. I've been running without for a couple years now. This video here is perfect slap to the face for those that paid that extortion price. Haha thanks for posting What's the part number?
Thanks for watching. I don't know if the 5.7 hemi truck is a different set up, but someone very upset posted last week that they could'nt do it. I'm no mechanic but I guess I proved an idiot like me can do it.
@@thelandmarks3320 Yeah I am pretty sure it is the exact setup as I have the Hemi in the driveway with need to finish this fix as well. Last issue didn't require a large amount of work and I took a quick short cut. This idiot doesn't fit under the dash though no pain no gain...
I have the 5.7 and everywhere I’ve read says you have to cut into the box if you don’t take the dash off. I just removed the blower and ripped the door out so I could get actual air movement and left it like that. I’ll take a look at it again and see if doing this way is even possible.
I followed his method except to two small details? Used Duct Tape (the real deal metal tape for HVAC) and I covered up both holes in front of the passenger side. The good news is I actually have heat now and it didn't take but a second...
They must tried to cut costs on the later models.Mine had three screws and top screw you cant get out because of the duct work over top. Just had to bend and rotate out of the way to get to the white drive key. What a pain in the ass.
Have been following for awhile and just subscribed. Nice technical addition to the video content. I notice the Rotopax containers mounted to your NL roof access ladder. Since I own a 2019 NL 10.2 EX CD SE and am modifying for some extended Canadian travel. wondering if you have some details to share on how you rigged up support for the Rotopax mounting hardware. I can see the standard fitting but not the details on the backside of the ladder. Did you experience any damage or deflection on the ladder from the dynamic loads? Thanks for any insights and safe travels.
Getting ready to do mine soon. Thank you for the video. And, this is by far the most interactive video on doing this. Very much appreciated.
Well...this video was very informative and helpful. Thank you for posting it! I will say that if this door breaks again...I'll sell the truck before I go through this chore again.
Of course I have the da*M amp so it was much harder. I did remove the main right side dash trim by removing screws and just easing the right side down a bit. With this trim moved I was able to get in and do the job. I hit Harbor Freight and bought some specialized screwdrivers (small knob type and the angled ratchet type) to get to those difficult screws. Also had to unscrew the amp and slide it out of the way - held by 3 10mm bolts...it moves just enough.
Thanks for adding your experience. I hear the amp makes it a serious POA.
I have seen several videos on TH-cam. I think this one is probably the best out there. I just did mine today . Follwed the step by step and worked fine.. Couple points . The end peice I used needle nose pulled straight out.. The old blend door: there is a deeper part of that compartment way at the top where you have room to turn the blend door vertical in order to get out. Thanks
Thanks a bunch! Did u fix it?
@@thelandmarks3320 yep. Worked like a charm . Thanks!
Thank you very much for a very detailed vid of how to get at that faulty blend door.
Patrick Perkinson Thanks for watching!
Thank you for this detailed and outstanding video...I have seen many videos and yours just made sense instead of cutting things up or removing the dash. I have a 06 Dodge Hemi 1500 and the only part I had trouble with was the plastic pin/axle. I finally used a really small needle nose pliers and just gripped the sidewall of the axle pin where the actuator motor goes into and out it came. Sure is nice to have the a/c blowing cold and quieter. Many thanks again...
Frank Garcia Thanks for the reply. You get a lot of grief trying to help out your fellow Dodge owners on TH-cam. Glad I could help!
This is the EXACT video I was looking for. Thank you sir.
Watched several videos on this, this was the best, gonna give it a try now, video up top was so helpful 👍
Thanks! How did it go?
Amazing video. Perfect instruction.
Incredible camera angles. Well done.
Thanks for watching!
do i have to take actuator off - to take that white pin or anchor to the door grove out?
good video better than taking whole dash out, thanks
Clear, easy to understand video. However, could not get to the actuator screws because my 2006 Dodge Ram Mega Cab Laramie had a factory amp installed right in front of them. Yikes.
Norman Heggstrom Hey. Thanks for watching. Sorry about the amp. Fancy dodge. I had much more space to work with.
So what malfunction caused you to replace this particular door? I have a 2006 Cummins Ram 3500 and I'm not getting heat to the driver's side. Which door would you think is MY problem? Anyone have an answer?
I’m guessing you have dual climate. In that case it is your driver’s blend door.
Ever figure it out Dan? I have the same issue on my '07 2500 Hemi SLT. Doesn't have controls for dual climate zones but the passenger side blows cold, driver's doesn't.
If you have the upgraded stereo with the factory amplifier, your in for it. Can’t get to the actuator screws without removing the amp. Hours my friend, hours.
Thank you very much for adding this. I suspected some viewers running into this problem.
Thank you for the detail and easy follow video. I have a question about the axle/pin. Do i need position how the door goes into the axle or needs to put on certain position on the air direction switch when installing the door? Thank you.
junda6 Sorry for late reply. The computer will go full open and close on start up, it will then figured out what position the door is. As far as what side of door faces what, I put the foam facing inward for good seal. Hope this answers your question. If not, let me know. Cheers.
instaBlaster...
I was told by a shop they have to tear the entire hvac ducting out to do this job, for $800 plus parts. I've been running without for a couple years now. This video here is perfect slap to the face for those that paid that extortion price. Haha thanks for posting
What's the part number?
thanks for watching !
3rd Gen Ram (02-09) Recirculation Door (DT-3962-Y) × 1
Good video
Thank you for watching.
I did a week in July without a working AC compressor in a Tahoe with leather seats. Just driving 15 minutes from work was torture.
Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching.
Hell of a video... I know from personal experience there is very little room to move in addition to filming your repair....
Thanks for watching. I don't know if the 5.7 hemi truck is a different set up, but someone very upset posted last week that they could'nt do it. I'm no mechanic but I guess I proved an idiot like me can do it.
@@thelandmarks3320 Yeah I am pretty sure it is the exact setup as I have the Hemi in the driveway with need to finish this fix as well. Last issue didn't require a large amount of work and I took a quick short cut. This idiot doesn't fit under the dash though no pain no gain...
I have the 5.7 and everywhere I’ve read says you have to cut into the box if you don’t take the dash off. I just removed the blower and ripped the door out so I could get actual air movement and left it like that. I’ll take a look at it again and see if doing this way is even possible.
I followed his method except to two small details? Used Duct Tape (the real deal metal tape for HVAC) and I covered up both holes in front of the passenger side. The good news is I actually have heat now and it didn't take but a second...
Thanks!
They must tried to cut costs on the later models.Mine had three screws and top screw you cant get out because of the duct work over top. Just had to bend and rotate out of the way to get to the white drive key. What a pain in the ass.
Appreciate the info. Thanks Rob.
Have been following for awhile and just subscribed. Nice technical addition to the video content. I notice the Rotopax containers mounted to your NL roof access ladder. Since I own a 2019 NL 10.2 EX CD SE and am modifying for some extended Canadian travel. wondering if you have some details to share on how you rigged up support for the Rotopax mounting hardware. I can see the standard fitting but not the details on the backside of the ladder. Did you experience any damage or deflection on the ladder from the dynamic loads? Thanks for any insights and safe travels.
K Theodore I’ll post a quick video and show you. Thanks for watching!
Thank you, Mr Landmarks. I'll look forward to it.
How did u have so much room?
It was really tight. I do not have the woofer/ amp setup like some higher up models might.
You move the camera too much can't tell where it's at
Good video
Thanks for the comment. Hope you fixed it.