Installing adjustable front camber kits on BMWs and MINIs - How to
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 มี.ค. 2014
- BLOG ARTICLE: blog.bavauto.com/15365
PARTS LIST:
* Front Camber Kit -
www.bavauto.com/se1.asp?dept_i...
* Spring compressor -
www.bavauto.com/fland.asp?part...
* Steering Knuckle Spreader -
www.bavauto.com/fland.asp?part...
* Metric socket and ratchet set -- 3/8" and ½" drive, 10mm through 22mm
* Metric combination wrench set -- 10mm through 22mm
* Various common mechanic's hand tools -- Screwdrivers, pliers, pry bars, etc.
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See if this sounds familiar... As you pass by your BMW or MINI, checking out the smart lines of the body, the tires look just fine to you. And when you clean the wheels and the tires, or add some air, the tread blocks look nice and deep. Then just a short time later, you are under the car and discover with some amazement and disbelief (or you are told by a technician) that the tires need to be replaced -- to the tune of several hundred dollars -- because the insides of the tires are completely bald! (See Fig. 1.) How can this be? You've driven only a few thousand miles on them, or had them on the car for just a couple of seasons of use... and the outside tread looks almost new! Welcome to the world of negative camber.
The suspension on our BMWs and MINIs is designed to deliver comfort, performance, safety and economy. These four considerations do not always make good bedfellows, and the chassis designers must compromise on one or more of these goals. For example, comfort and performance require lightweight suspension components (in comparison to chassis weight). This results in a trade-off in long-term durability plus sensitivity to issues that can cause vibrations. Similarly, designing for performance requires suspension geometry and alignment specifications that may cause accelerated wear on components -- not the best for economy.
Our BMWs and MINIs are designed to be comfortable and safe at high speeds on unrestricted highways, tricky mountain roads and those beautiful, country two-lanes that point to destinations yet unknown. To be safe in all of these scenarios, the chassis and suspension must be designed primarily for performance. This is accomplished through the suspension geometry design (how the suspension parts move as the suspension is compressed and extended) and the wheel alignment. What is wheel alignment? It is how the wheel/tire and the suspension members are sitting when the vehicle is at rest. There are three main elements in alignment -- Toe, Caster and Camber. Of these, the factory BMW and MINI camber settings are fairly aggressive and can produce the inner tread wear that BMW and MINI owners are familiar with.
What is camber?
Simply put, camber is the angle of the wheel, top to bottom, when viewed from the front or rear of the vehicle. Camber is measured in degrees. Positive camber (e.g. +3°) means the top of the wheel is tilted away from the car. If the top of the wheel is leaning in towards the car, the camber is a negative (see photo below). Most high performance cars such as BMWs come with some negative camber for better handling. People who race their BMWs at the track like even more negative camber. But excessive negative camber will result in less-than optimal straight-line tracking and faster wear of the tire tread. (And with the price of high-performance tires these days, that can add up to a major expense in a hurry.) Both front and rear tires are susceptible to uneven wear caused by excessive camber. That wear is even more pronounced on BMWs with "plus-size" wheels and tires.
While the factory camber settings are indeed aggressive for a daily driven, highway commuter application, the problems are magnified when the suspension is modified by lowering the vehicle ride height (installing sport springs). When the BMW or MINI is lowered, by installing sport springs or suspension systems, the negative camber is increased, further reducing tire life.
Details have been shortened and edited due to TH-cam requirements. See the full tech blog article at - blog.bavauto.com/15367
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All products noted in this video can be purchased in our online store, www.bavauto.com/, 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. You are also welcome to e-mail us at info@bavauto.com or call into our headquarters and speak to our knowledgeable advisors at (800) 535-2002 (Mon.-Thurs. 8AM to 9PM EST, Fri. 8AM to 7PM EST, and Sat. 9AM to 4PM EST). - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
This was a fantastic video, thanks very much!
Very helpful. Thanks for the effort!!
Really great instruction. Thanks.
Randy F - We can't reply directly to your comment as it was sent in via Google.
The torque depends on the model, ranging from 25 to 50 ftlbs. The applicable Bentley repair manual will detail the model specific torque.
www.bavauto.com/se1.asp?dept_id=5228
Very instructive. .professional. .good
A man of few words.
I like it.
lol
very informative. Thanks.
sad to see bav go. I came back to this video because i was like i love this design and wanted to install something like this to me f32. does anybody know where i can find something similar?
I recently bought camber plates for after market coilovers for my e46 coupe, I am confused about the installation still. My coil over has a flat top spring perch, then i used the washer that came with it, lower flange, camber plate (which has spherical bearing) and the finally flanged nut last. My question is, I know the spherical bearing moves axially for camber, but there is no bearing for steering load or rotation? What am I missing?
What is the recommended torque for the upper mounting nuts?
My E46's caster is different by about 1 degree left to right. Is installing camber/caster plates like this one the only way to fix my inequal caster?
Can I use a cheaper camber plate that only allows one axis of adjustment (not 2 axes like KMAC's) and just rotate it around upon installation to adjust the caster only (because my camber is acceptable as is)?
Could you explain more for the kmacs which is L or R plss?
Thanks! Quick question, I'm installing stage1 on my E36M3 - I have a strut brace also, should I put that on top of the Camber plate top plate? Or use the strut brace instead of the camber plate top plate? Assuming to use both. Thanks!
For the satge-1 installation, the foot for the stressbar (strut brace) replaces the black upper plate.
Great video, as always. Do these kits come with the different diameter inserts?
BUZDRIFT each kit comes with different hardware (spacers, bushings, washers. etc.) that is applicable to the models covered by that kit.
can you please help i installed coil overs on my e46 320d and the springs in front make noise when i turn the wheels thanks for help
Our first thought is that the upper spring mount is hitting the underside of the upper mount. Lift the front wheels off the ground. Remove the three upper mount nuts (place a jack under the control arm so the strut assembly does not just drop when the nuts are removed). Lower the control arm, strut and mount so that the studs on the mount are free of the strut tower. See if the upper mount turns (spins) freely or if it binds. If it binds, it may be hitting the upper spring plate. Remove the assembly and check it out.
Hello, I have an 04' 330i zhp one of my rear shock needs to be replace any suggestions please help thanks
Rey Gërhard - Rey, we can offer various different shock options, from Meyle (lowest price) to Sachs (original replacement), Bilstein and Koni. Just go to our online store, ID your model and search "shocks". www.bavauto.com
Great vid. Do these adjustment plates affect NVH levels (make ride harsher etc)
InstaBlaster...
@@brycenemerson1061 ?????
What about the adjustable rear camber installation? Tnx...
We have not done a video on this yet. Generally, there is less confusion on the rear installations. What model?
Trying to camber out my rear wheels for a noticeable look but I've only got the lower control arms replaced , do I need something like this for the rear as well?
I have a 2000 bmw 328i
i am the first to see this vid.. :) yeay..any prize for me ???