Always killing it with the unique and helpful DIY's! I will have to give this one a switch once my battery gets a little older. Only had it for around a year.
Absolutely the best DIY on this. I had tried to do this two times using the various forums and could not get it to stick. Followed along and completed the job with success watching this tutorial, Thanks for the great upload.
This is probably one of the best BMW battery coding videos on TH-cam, and I was able to follow the demonstration to code & register a 95Ah AGM battery for my 650i (E63). The car had been showing strange battery errors occasionally (I drive this car only once in a while and always use a battery tender) - turns out the BMW technician (sucker) put the 90Ah AGM battery under 110Ah non-AGM. No wonder! It also explains why the alternator failed and had to be replaced.
Finally! Why did you make us wait so long?! Nicely done! 2 years ago I've upgraded my battery with a Varta AGM (90/95 mAh a guess, and my stock was acid battery 80mAh). Here in Bucharest / Romania two BMW mechanics told me that a coding is not required and only the registration of battery is sufficient. Testing & measuring the battery from 6 to 6 months, I can say (from memory) that after 1 year of use not-coded (only registered) the battery is at 88 % perfomance (tested via a diagnise hand tool - used for maintaining the warranty).
I hardly ever comment on youtube but this video was the best! I was able to swap out my 90 Ah battery for a new 80 Ah battery in my E90 with your walkthrough and also you helped me code the thing with this video! Hats off to you Sir! Why does BMW make this so difficult?!
I really appreciate these videos man. I bought an e92 for a great deal because of a misfire issue. I came across your channel and boom, everything I need to know about my n54 e92 and even helped me with my e70. fixed the misfire, all the maintenance/gaskets and installed all bolt ons minus turbo outlets. I wouldn't have tried installing or repairing half this stuff if it wasn't for these in depth informative videos. you have saved me so much money !!
You're a beast thank you so much for this! My 10 year old ORIGINAL battery just died and caused a shit ton codes so I decided to upgrade to AGM and it works perfectly no more codes!
I totally agree with you, so far i have owned 5 bmws model and all of the models gave me battery problems. BMW batteries suck, once the battery drain on you once thats it - yOUR BATTERY PROBLEMS WILL BEGIN, its the start to a battery issue that is very difficult to figure out. thanks for the info guys
I just installed a full lithium battery in my E92 335i: 1,5kg only! Even after 3 days without charger it starts at freezing temps. Best lightweight mod ever at only 180 euros. :D
@@LukeBasson Most of the road-racecars have everything deleted at the back like trunk/interior trim, rear seats, mufflers etc so around 20 kg is not that big of a difference on weight distribution. But if you only start shaving a lot off the back that's no good, agreed. Also I have a OS Giken LSD with 265 rear tires. I like some traction loss in the wet. :D
Hi! Thank you very much for the video! I had a rough idle and occasional misfires on my e93 n43 after replacing all injectors(index11), coils, plugs and nox sensor but after watching this I decided to upgrade from a 100ah non agm varta battery (which lasted for 2 years due to incorrect coding) to a 95ah agm varta battery. Coded it according to your instructions in the video and my car feels so smooth I cant believe it!! It start immidiately and idles perfect!Can not wait to see more of your videos! Also that 340i is a beast :))
Just did the whole job as I was using old systems where you had to download total e89 databases etc lol. This is a super light package (Bimmertools suite) Thank you very much brother I have been watching your videos for a long long time. Funny thing is, you and I have almost exact same year (I'm 07), however your time-line of upgrades and modding and maintenance almost EXACTLY lines up with when I have had to do mine on my 335i. Some stuff I do before you, and some stuff you do before me within a matter of weeks LOL! I'm sure more people line up with us, great to have your content and you brother. Take care
you rock dude ... the details are whats killer .. you talking about the file to modify in case the previous owner coded the car is so $$ ... my car was coded and i never even realized it until i found out my dads f30 mirrors and windows dont fold in and close up when you hold down the lock button!
I have and have used all that software but, watching this convinced me to buy Protool, was worth it. Load up, about 3 clicks, and done with battery registration.
I find my bmw very hard on Pb batteries, cooking them with charge rates above 14.2 volts. (Yes it's coded correctly) Fyi first timers to BMW- if your swapping chemistry between lead acid and agm you 100% must register the change or you'll end up with battery issues.
Great video! I also recently upgraded to an AGM battery for my 335i (N55). I would like to let you know that viewers that are not so versed with coding can use Carly which makes the coding and registration process MUCH easier. One this about AGM - we use them in airplanes because they are slightly lighter than comparable flooded counterparts. Could it also be that in M cars, where weight is really important, using AGM battery was an engineering decision to also shave some weight?
Thanks! Yes Carly can work for something simple like this. Every pound counts but in this case for H8 batteries that fit these cars they both weigh around 60 lbs from what I can tell.
Thanks for this man! it really helped me out and was super detailed, and for all your other battery videos also because I watched a bunch of them to get what I needed done, much appreciated!
Almost all of the late model BMW M cars we see in our shop come equipped with lithium ion batteries. During coding, programming or even power supply operations we must put our Deutronics clean power supply in lithium ion mode. The unit even requires a password to change the setting. The current offering from BMW for the battery you featured is a 92 Ah AGM.
my new battery shows a 95Ah rating. Can i still use the 90Ah rating for me in INPA? or is there a 95Ah option. I haven't downloaded the software yet, I figured I would ask first. TY great videos btw.
@3:16 the video shows that the battery he's installing is indeed 95Ah (increase video resolution to 4k in order to see clearly), and he applied a 90Ah setting while coding. I've see other videos where they advise coding to the available Ah setting just below the one labeled on the battery. (ex 85 Ah battery, code to 80Ah/ 92Ah or 95Ah battery, code to 90Ah/ etc.). As always, no guarantees, but that's what I've observed.
I am very keen on AGM batteries on cars that have a high quiescent current or a high discharge after shutdown. For example my Z3 will kill a battery in a week with some drain it has. In normal every day use the voltage dropper to about 11.8 volts short use after about 6 months. Upgraded to AGM after a year its still at 12.5 volts. And I have left it for 10 days and it started up perfectly. People do not understand these batteries and they charge them at too high a voltage and kill them. I have the original BMW AGM battery in my E65. Its date stamp is May 2004 and its still good. Because my E65 is only used on weekends I do put it on a trickle charger when the voltage drops to 12 volts. I have done this about once a year and it takes about a week on the charger at 13.5 volts to fully charge.
Always place a rag or a this or that so you don’t get locked out !! Next video “if you get locked out, inside your key is another key you wanna take that key and put it in the trunk or door and twist it’s almost like magic how it just opens 😆
So lucky I watched your video! I tried coding with Carly and ISTA+ but I never got any confirmation that my battery type had changed from Acid to AGM. I loaded up Ncsexpert and done the old way of codierdaten_lessen and then in NCSDummy I could see that it was still a 90ah acid battery. Changed to 90 AGM and ran Sg_Codieren. I then re-ran Carly and read the battery data and could see a 90ah AGM battery detected. 👍
@@rudeone760 my E90 didn't have an IBS which is why I had difficulty making the change.. The battery type change isn't needed if you don't have an IBS. So yes Carly theoretically would have worked fine but the app probably knew the change isn't applicable.
My '07 e92 came with an AGM battery. It lasted 7 years. I ended up going the other way and replaced/recoded with non-AGM OEM battery. It has lasted 6 years. Will likely need replacement at the end of the year (7 year mark). In my case, both worked just fine for my needs, but I daily my car driving 70 miles a day fwiw
My regular battery was 90ah 720A and used a almost new BMW AGM 80ah 900A (charged it and it passed the midtronics test) with only registration. It's a free battery I just wanna see how long it will last me. I know if you go from regular to agm battery you supposed to retrofit/code it.
My stock non agm battery is a 90ah with 720cca 160 reserve capacity. You think going to a agm 80ah 850 cca 140 reserve capacity battery would yield any benefits for a car with stage 2 turbos pr coils running 600hp? Or should just go with a new stock non agm? The reason I ask is because the 95ah agm is 10lbs heavier than stock. I wont be adding weight to the rear. If you had a choice between the the 2, which one?
Got 8 years out of the battery that came with my 2013 E70 X5 35i. It literally reads on it. BMW Manufacturing, LLC. Greer, SC Getting a new BMW OE battery tomorrow.
Does it matter that the battery you have put in is a 95 Ah AGM and you have coded it to 90 Ah AGM? Just as I was coding my 95 Ah AGM battery and noticed there was no 95 Ah AGM option to select
I really need to find a place were to buy this one and were to get coded, I don't have a laptop and I'm not willing to take risk by doing it myself witouth experience on this. But anyways your content still the best for me , keep doing it
the AGM battery in my e90 lasted 5 yrs (Duralast) it was never coded or registered, contrary to popular belief.. I replaced it with an H8 battery, this time I registered it. Let's see how long it last, it's a tight fit but the h8 is close to the original spec.
Very helpful video pal. Recently bought my pregnant missus a 2011 3 series. E90, 318i exclusive edition 4 door, 6spd manual. Car only has 70k miles with a good service history, dealer history up to 50k miles.. however recently it’s been sluggish to start. Did the usual and replaced the battery for a 800CCA 80AmH AGM battery on the recommendation from the dealer. All of a sudden the start stop feature has started to work.... but... it’s still sluggish when firing up. Not all the time but temperamental. Previous battery when tested only showed 517CCA so I was confident a new cell would solve this. Unfortunately it hasn’t. Had the new battery checked again after install and under load... battery is great, was recalibrated/coded too and alternator is also working great. So.. I’m now guessing a possible starter motor, or fuel issue. I’ve read that the starters can give some bother in and around 45k miles and up but have also read some of the injectors and relays could also cause this. The idling is a little off too now but nothing to cause any real concerns but I just don’t know where to begin. Any thoughts? No fault codes present unless the previous owner had them cleared before I picked her up. Any help would be greatly appreciated as the car is otherwise mint.
Vehicular DIY Gentleman thank you. Gut feeling was the starter to begin with although with some digging around I was beginning to think it could have been another culprit. VANOS sensors, fuel pump relays etc have my brain fried at the minute and the lack of fault codes was beginning to annoy me. Would you suggest going OEM or aftermarket such as Bosch? The reason I ask is that I’m being led to believe Bosch is not what it used to be with regards to reliability especially for their starters using cheaper internal components (reference BIMMER forum UK). Still have confidence in their spark plugs though lol. Am somewhat anxious about going OEM again if the same issue could surface in another 50-60k down the road. I’ll change the manifold gaskets as well as all new bolts as suggested. Might even change the ground cable too while I’ve got access. Thanks again for any advice pal, great channel and just sub’d.
Can you tell me why in the winter my car's date and time reset to flashing and I have to reprogram the time and date half the time when I get in my car? I get a message that says something like excess discharge when off or something like that? This only happens in the winter when it's cold out. I have a 2008 328xi 6MT with 85K that I've had for a year now. Thanks for your videos! Just discovered your channel and instantly subscribed.
Nice, you took off the power distribution box of the battery. It makes removing the battery much way easier. Why didn't you remove the power distribution box on the last video you did two weeks ago?
Somewhat, remotely, okay not really related, but when you did your VTG/transfer case fluid change on your X5, what did you use to reset the CBS/adaptations for the transfer case? Or did you do a reset? In some diag tools there's a "Change Oil" reset in the drive VTG section. In other tools it's not there. My Foxwell tool has a module reset, but I'm a little worried about trying it.
Hey really love your content I recently bought a e90 320d and already order the lsd kit you installed to your car too many thanks for that! I’d like to ask if by any chance you could do a video of retrofitting power folding mirrors! Is the next mod I want to do and a video would be extremely helpful! Many thanks keep doing what you do!
Hey thanks for watching! Folding power mirrors actually came standard on my car. I can imagine the retrofit part is easy and you might have to do some minor coding to the NFRM module so they close when you lock your car.
Vehicular DIY I know sort of what I have to do with wiring, could you make a small tutorial just for the coding part? As far as I know I need to replace mirrors switches and passenger door harness and then route 2 wires to the passenger harness one 12v and one that will go to the Lin bus! I will figure it out as soon as start digging! Unfortunately am not familiar with the coding software I am about to install it to my laptop and a step by step guide for coding the NFRM module would be a true gift! Of course if you can’t spent that time I understand you have already give a lot of content, and thanks for that!
Isn't it the same to change the capacity and type of the battery in FSW_PSW.TRC file using ncs dummy, then export it to FSW_PSW.MAN file and code this file to your CAS module using NCS Expert? I think that you should also need to change your VO data. You should add A090 and will have to delete B080.
How long do AGM batteries last? I have my BMW for 10years now and have never replaced the battery - I bought it when it was only 2years old so i would assume that it had never been replaced before, so that means it's been 12years for the battery. Should I worry about replacing it soon?
Just replaced a AGM in a E70 (original 2012!) but paid the price of letting it go way too long. Was in dealer for recall work 2019 fall, they tested the batter and said it's original but tests out good, said maybe it was replaced and not registered at some point (?) they still recommended replacing, I figured I would do it rather than pay $600 for a battery at the dealer. I neglected and 4 months later car dies while driving, starts throwing all sorts of odd codes. I replace the battery and figure I'll take it to indy shop to have registered (same exact agm replacement). Still random dies while driving and throws codes that say the alternator / regulator are bad. Take it to indy shop, they register the new battery and it's still throwing codes: 4C2C: mass air flow sensor, range 4990: exhaust back pressure sensor before turbo plausibility 4121: main relay 4A18 Generator Replaced the alternator (w/relay) came and picked car up and it died on the highway on the way home, just like before, restarted drove back to shop and left again, wouldn't start for them for a good while, short cranks of 3 seconds and nothing.... new codes: 4BF0: Nitrogen oxide sensor after cat 48EC: Pressure sensor plausibility After researching, I asked them to try less costly things than $800.00 alternators (installed) and it pointed to the CAS and finally threw a crank sensor fault. That was way cheaper than sending the CAS out to be redone so they replaced the crank sensor and cleared codes and test drove for 3 days and we believe that the low voltage / battery sent the E70 electric system into a downward spiral that took multiple clearings to get the junk out of the system and get voltage correct again, turned out the crank sensor was the only real bad part in the end Other than battery), but I ended up with a new alternator I didn't need, the shop felt bad so discounted additional diagnostic time... this could have been a whole lot worse, but still cost almost 2k additional in BS. because I let the battery go to long. Won't make that mistake twice.
Swapping the battery in my e90 328xi and I found out it already has an AGM battery. Very curious? I'm pretty sure my car has the cold weather package so maybe they naturally came with an AGM with the cold weather package because they're very good in harsh environments? Works for me; northern PA gets pretty nasty sometimes.
I currently using a normal lead acid battery din 100, somehow Im having charging issue, even replaced with new alternator but didnt solve the problem. I use schwaben tool to monitor the livedata on the charge voltage when the engine run which show sometime 13.3v and sometime t goes 13.9v/14v. But still have code for alternator missing and bsd for alternator, waterpump & oil condition sensor. Also the ibs cable is also replaced and now make me think that I should replace the battery with AGM type. By the way, my ride is E60 523i with N52 engine.
The whole INPA, NCS EXPERT, NCS DUMMY, BMW TOOLS, Etc options coding seems way too mysterious to me and I’m no slouch when it comes to technology. But I watched your video here and it seems as though you’ve had training or extensive brute force trial and error lessons with these software tools. When something which ought to be rather simple such as registering a new battery takes such lengthy and convoluted procedures with multiple software modules then I have two problems. I find it doubtful these tools will ever be actually usable by me without explicit, step by step instructions for any given task. I know because I’ve bought the software and the pass-through and tried using them - mostly to no good end. Moreover, I invested in an Autel Maxisys elite system and although this has enabled me to accomplish many more tadks. I find myself worried that the simple procedure it followed to register my new AGM battery may not actually be doing all the coding necessary to make sure the charging strategy or profile is correct. How can I check if it is?? Love your channel btw, you’ve helped me a great deal with my E70 x5👍🏻👍🏻
Missfires wont be anything to do with battery, full load from ignition even over 1000bhp is like 7 amps. Your rad fan pulls wayyy more than any of the engine components
Scotty Kilmer channel said that a weak battery is not good because it allows Interference from the alternator and other high voltage electronics like HID or sparks to propagate. This “bad quality electricity” will ruin your electronics in the long run.
I got an AGM for my 135i it's a 75ah, is that ok? It was the same size as the one I took out. Trouble is that the electric steering wheel lock light came on now it won't crank over. Can you please tell me which adapter is best to use with the protool app.
I have an e90 m3.. I need to choose mss660 to do all this but it’s in German. I choose the msd80(incorrect ecu) and that’s in English. But I can’t do these steps with an e90 m3 because it’s in German. Any ideas of a work around?
İ need some help about codding battery İ have 2002 bmw 745 i cahange battery from 110 ah to 105ah agm but agm batteries not on the list i cant choose agm i think i have to change fa/vo but i dont know how can you help me
Hi. Im abit confused with my car I got a 2009 e92 320d m sport highline. This car has alot of gadgets with it and the start and stop. Original battery lasted for 11 years. It says 90ah 900cc Doesnt have the agm logo but eveeytime i googled the car vin kept saying its a agm spec battery. I used carly i am.not sure that the old battery ah was at it could be 80ah or 90ah. Will it be a problem i seleceted it at (90ah agm)
Don’t you have a video that summarizes all of the repairs that you have done on your 335I? Can you tell me the title I can’t find it anywhere in your video list. Thx!!
Any chance you can do this coding to me ? I'm at the Houston area and I don't own a laptop that's my biggest peoblem and my battery it's about to die I need to upgrade it
Hey! Is the directory for NCS expert made when you install the program? And that directory will populate with items as i code different files, and can then use those to push into the car?
Yes that's right, download the software and then follow the thread to set it up and you're ready to code. No messing with daten files etc. Pretty easy now.
@Vehicular DIY Could you have settle for an H7 instead of an H8? Most sites list the H7 as the OEM equivalent for my car (2013 328i xDrive) and yours. I need to change mine and wondering if there’s a real benefit of installing an H8 over the H7.
Hi, nice tutorial, but unless I'm mistaken, this method will not update the VO of the car. If your car never goes in a dealer shop, probably not a big deal, but it's best to keep it in sync with what is installed in it. In this case, the end of the VO (in both CAS and FRM modules) must be updated from '-A080' to '-B090'. This VO coding can be done from INPA tools (see blog.uobdii.com/register-and-code-a-new-bmw-battery-comprehensive-guide/ for example). David
Lead Acid flooded was standard on your year? Wow! Did you check for corrosion in the battery compartment? Highly recommend the American Odyssey 94-950 www.odysseybattery.com/Batteries/Model_49950 with the very pure lead plates. Exceeds the excellent OEM battery in everyday including warranty. Dekka is the only other USA battery maker of whom I am aware. Interstate and Optima moved to Mexico over a decade ago.
Yeah it was standard. This Interstate AGM battery I installed was made last month and has a sticker saying made in Germany on it. Hopefully it holds up. It has a 3 year warranty.
@@VehicularDIY Yeah it should be good. I bet the Germans have the purer lead than Mexico. A lot of the retail parts houses ones are not quite up to OEM specifications. Why does INPA say you have MSD80 when you switched out to MSD81 and had it coded? PPK2 (335is) has the heavier duty alternator and 800W cooling fan. Most of the later F8x M cars have Lithium-Ion these days I believe? The 7 Series has two of these AGM batteries, I believe.
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Always killing it with the unique and helpful DIY's! I will have to give this one a switch once my battery gets a little older. Only had it for around a year.
instablaster...
Absolutely the best DIY on this. I had tried to do this two times using the various forums and could not get it to stick. Followed along and completed the job with success watching this tutorial, Thanks for the great upload.
This is probably one of the best BMW battery coding videos on TH-cam, and I was able to follow the demonstration to code & register a 95Ah AGM battery for my 650i (E63). The car had been showing strange battery errors occasionally (I drive this car only once in a while and always use a battery tender) - turns out the BMW technician (sucker) put the 90Ah AGM battery under 110Ah non-AGM. No wonder! It also explains why the alternator failed and had to be replaced.
Love these videos with my morning coffee. Keep it up good Sir!
Finally! Why did you make us wait so long?! Nicely done! 2 years ago I've upgraded my battery with a Varta AGM (90/95 mAh a guess, and my stock was acid battery 80mAh). Here in Bucharest / Romania two BMW mechanics told me that a coding is not required and only the registration of battery is sufficient. Testing & measuring the battery from 6 to 6 months, I can say (from memory) that after 1 year of use not-coded (only registered) the battery is at 88 % perfomance (tested via a diagnise hand tool - used for maintaining the warranty).
I hardly ever comment on youtube but this video was the best! I was able to swap out my 90 Ah battery for a new 80 Ah battery in my E90 with your walkthrough and also you helped me code the thing with this video! Hats off to you Sir! Why does BMW make this so difficult?!
I really appreciate these videos man. I bought an e92 for a great deal because of a misfire issue. I came across your channel and boom, everything I need to know about my n54 e92 and even helped me with my e70. fixed the misfire, all the maintenance/gaskets and installed all bolt ons minus turbo outlets. I wouldn't have tried installing or repairing half this stuff if it wasn't for these in depth informative videos. you have saved me so much money !!
You're a beast thank you so much for this! My 10 year old ORIGINAL battery just died and caused a shit ton codes so I decided to upgrade to AGM and it works perfectly no more codes!
Bimmer Builds same thing here, I just replaced my 9 years old died battery to AGM today do I need to reprogram or register
I totally agree with you, so far i have owned 5 bmws model and all of the models gave me battery problems. BMW batteries suck, once the battery drain on you once thats it - yOUR BATTERY PROBLEMS WILL BEGIN, its the start to a battery issue that is very difficult to figure out. thanks for the info guys
I just installed a full lithium battery in my E92 335i: 1,5kg only! Even after 3 days without charger it starts at freezing temps. Best lightweight mod ever at only 180 euros. :D
i do not think the rear end is happy by taking weight off it traction wise . I would not save weight that way.
@@LukeBasson Most of the road-racecars have everything deleted at the back like trunk/interior trim, rear seats, mufflers etc so around 20 kg is not that big of a difference on weight distribution. But if you only start shaving a lot off the back that's no good, agreed. Also I have a OS Giken LSD with 265 rear tires. I like some traction loss in the wet. :D
Hi! Thank you very much for the video! I had a rough idle and occasional misfires on my e93 n43 after replacing all injectors(index11), coils, plugs and nox sensor but after watching this I decided to upgrade from a 100ah non agm varta battery (which lasted for 2 years due to incorrect coding) to a 95ah agm varta battery. Coded it according to your instructions in the video and my car feels so smooth I cant believe it!! It start immidiately and idles perfect!Can not wait to see more of your videos! Also that 340i is a beast :))
Definitely doing this thanks for the upload always educational! Bmw should sponsor you
I've used these tools before but it was helpful to have the steps laid out so clearly for the coding and such. Thanks
Just did the whole job as I was using old systems where you had to download total e89 databases etc lol. This is a super light package (Bimmertools suite) Thank you very much brother I have been watching your videos for a long long time. Funny thing is, you and I have almost exact same year (I'm 07), however your time-line of upgrades and modding and maintenance almost EXACTLY lines up with when I have had to do mine on my 335i. Some stuff I do before you, and some stuff you do before me within a matter of weeks LOL! I'm sure more people line up with us, great to have your content and you brother. Take care
My 2011 335d came with AGM. It’s now 2020 and still going strong.
you rock dude ... the details are whats killer .. you talking about the file to modify in case the previous owner coded the car is so $$ ... my car was coded and i never even realized it until i found out my dads f30 mirrors and windows dont fold in and close up when you hold down the lock button!
Pretty sure I'm going to have to go back and get an IT degree just to work on that software you are using
I have and have used all that software but, watching this convinced me to buy Protool, was worth it. Load up, about 3 clicks, and done with battery registration.
I find my bmw very hard on Pb batteries, cooking them with charge rates above 14.2 volts. (Yes it's coded correctly)
Fyi first timers to BMW- if your swapping chemistry between lead acid and agm you 100% must register the change or you'll end up with battery issues.
I just used this guide for my 328i and it worked perfectly! Thanks for the awesome content 🤝
Great video! I also recently upgraded to an AGM battery for my 335i (N55). I would like to let you know that viewers that are not so versed with coding can use Carly which makes the coding and registration process MUCH easier. One this about AGM - we use them in airplanes because they are slightly lighter than comparable flooded counterparts. Could it also be that in M cars, where weight is really important, using AGM battery was an engineering decision to also shave some weight?
Thanks! Yes Carly can work for something simple like this. Every pound counts but in this case for H8 batteries that fit these cars they both weigh around 60 lbs from what I can tell.
Top content. 👏👊🏽
kris griffin : Definitely
Thanks for this man! it really helped me out and was super detailed, and for all your other battery videos also because I watched a bunch of them to get what I needed done, much appreciated!
Nice video
Great video! You always brought great video for us. Thanks
Going to have a big wedding me and the FBI tied the mat don't worry we're bringing plenty of handcuffs for the guests😂
thanks for the downloads especially
Very informative with detailed explanation. Great job
Almost all of the late model BMW M cars we see in our shop come equipped with lithium ion batteries. During coding, programming or even power supply operations we must put our Deutronics clean power supply in lithium ion mode. The unit even requires a password to change the setting. The current offering from BMW for the battery you featured is a 92 Ah AGM.
That's interesting, the Li-Ion batteries would definitely last twice as long and would weigh much less. Thanks for the info.
Actually, in INPA, the 1 in 91 means AGM. If you programmed 90ah, it would show simply 90.
my new battery shows a 95Ah rating. Can i still use the 90Ah rating for me in INPA? or is there a 95Ah option. I haven't downloaded the software yet, I figured I would ask first. TY great videos btw.
i'm asking the same exact thing. Did you find your answer ?
@3:16 the video shows that the battery he's installing is indeed 95Ah (increase video resolution to 4k in order to see clearly), and he applied a 90Ah setting while coding. I've see other videos where they advise coding to the available Ah setting just below the one labeled on the battery. (ex 85 Ah battery, code to 80Ah/ 92Ah or 95Ah battery, code to 90Ah/ etc.). As always, no guarantees, but that's what I've observed.
I have the same question 🧐
Di someone find the answer?
Gotta love BMW so much B.S. over a battery
I am very keen on AGM batteries on cars that have a high quiescent current or a high discharge after shutdown.
For example my Z3 will kill a battery in a week with some drain it has. In normal every day use the voltage dropper to about 11.8 volts short use after about 6 months. Upgraded to AGM after a year its still at 12.5 volts. And I have left it for 10 days and it started up perfectly.
People do not understand these batteries and they charge them at too high a voltage and kill them.
I have the original BMW AGM battery in my E65. Its date stamp is May 2004 and its still good. Because my E65 is only used on weekends I do put it on a trickle charger when the voltage drops to 12 volts. I have done this about once a year and it takes about a week on the charger at 13.5 volts to fully charge.
Always place a rag or a this or that so you don’t get locked out !! Next video “if you get locked out, inside your key is another key you wanna take that key and put it in the trunk or door and twist it’s almost like magic how it just opens 😆
So lucky I watched your video! I tried coding with Carly and ISTA+ but I never got any confirmation that my battery type had changed from Acid to AGM. I loaded up Ncsexpert and done the old way of codierdaten_lessen and then in NCSDummy I could see that it was still a 90ah acid battery. Changed to 90 AGM and ran Sg_Codieren. I then re-ran Carly and read the battery data and could see a 90ah AGM battery detected. 👍
So is it possible to code and register agm batteries on Carly?
@@rudeone760 my E90 didn't have an IBS which is why I had difficulty making the change.. The battery type change isn't needed if you don't have an IBS. So yes Carly theoretically would have worked fine but the app probably knew the change isn't applicable.
Great work!! Think you could have seen the battery drain if someone did the WOT pull and you observed live data for battery status (voltage)?
I connect a charger once a week because I drive 5km/7 min to work. 2010 e92 335i, 2nd battery replaced last year. :D
Great info 👍 I live in Texas as well, I don't think I've ever had a battery last longer than 2 - 2.5 years.
atrain132 driving one hour daily will last longer my last 9years
The 5 the battery video. Yay
Thanks SO much!
My '07 e92 came with an AGM battery. It lasted 7 years. I ended up going the other way and replaced/recoded with non-AGM OEM battery. It has lasted 6 years. Will likely need replacement at the end of the year (7 year mark). In my case, both worked just fine for my needs, but I daily my car driving 70 miles a day fwiw
Thanks for the info, yeah that long drive each day is probably doing the car well including the battery.
Best diy. Works for me
My regular battery was 90ah 720A and used a almost new BMW AGM 80ah 900A (charged it and it passed the midtronics test) with only registration. It's a free battery I just wanna see how long it will last me. I know if you go from regular to agm battery you supposed to retrofit/code it.
My stock non agm battery is a 90ah with 720cca 160 reserve capacity. You think going to a agm 80ah 850 cca 140 reserve capacity battery would yield any benefits for a car with stage 2 turbos pr coils running 600hp? Or should just go with a new stock non agm? The reason I ask is because the 95ah agm is 10lbs heavier than stock. I wont be adding weight to the rear. If you had a choice between the the 2, which one?
Got 8 years out of the battery that came with my 2013 E70 X5 35i. It literally reads on it.
BMW Manufacturing, LLC.
Greer, SC
Getting a new BMW OE battery tomorrow.
Thank you for video! My battery is meeting it’s end and it never held a good charge.
That first line with the rag hope you guys font forget that part
Found this battery at Costco for $178. Choose option 3 in the battery choice. It was in stock in my store.
Does it matter that the battery you have put in is a 95 Ah AGM and you have coded it to 90 Ah AGM? Just as I was coding my 95 Ah AGM battery and noticed there was no 95 Ah AGM option to select
I really need to find a place were to buy this one and were to get coded, I don't have a laptop and I'm not willing to take risk by doing it myself witouth experience on this. But anyways your content still the best for me , keep doing it
the AGM battery in my e90 lasted 5 yrs (Duralast) it was never coded or registered, contrary to popular belief.. I replaced it with an H8 battery, this time I registered it. Let's see how long it last, it's a tight fit but the h8 is close to the original spec.
Very helpful video pal. Recently bought my pregnant missus a 2011 3 series. E90, 318i exclusive edition 4 door, 6spd manual. Car only has 70k miles with a good service history, dealer history up to 50k miles.. however recently it’s been sluggish to start. Did the usual and replaced the battery for a 800CCA 80AmH AGM battery on the recommendation from the dealer. All of a sudden the start stop feature has started to work.... but... it’s still sluggish when firing up. Not all the time but temperamental. Previous battery when tested only showed 517CCA so I was confident a new cell would solve this. Unfortunately it hasn’t. Had the new battery checked again after install and under load... battery is great, was recalibrated/coded too and alternator is also working great. So.. I’m now guessing a possible starter motor, or fuel issue. I’ve read that the starters can give some bother in and around 45k miles and up but have also read some of the injectors and relays could also cause this. The idling is a little off too now but nothing to cause any real concerns but I just don’t know where to begin. Any thoughts? No fault codes present unless the previous owner had them cleared before I picked her up. Any help would be greatly appreciated as the car is otherwise mint.
Hey so you get can a slow crank at times? I'd lean towards the starter if everything else is checking out.
Vehicular DIY Gentleman thank you. Gut feeling was the starter to begin with although with some digging around I was beginning to think it could have been another culprit. VANOS sensors, fuel pump relays etc have my brain fried at the minute and the lack of fault codes was beginning to annoy me. Would you suggest going OEM or aftermarket such as Bosch? The reason I ask is that I’m being led to believe Bosch is not what it used to be with regards to reliability especially for their starters using cheaper internal components (reference BIMMER forum UK). Still have confidence in their spark plugs though lol.
Am somewhat anxious about going OEM again if the same issue could surface in another 50-60k down the road. I’ll change the manifold gaskets as well as all new bolts as suggested. Might even change the ground cable too while I’ve got access. Thanks again for any advice pal, great channel and just sub’d.
Can you tell me why in the winter my car's date and time reset to flashing and I have to reprogram the time and date half the time when I get in my car? I get a message that says something like excess discharge when off or something like that? This only happens in the winter when it's cold out. I have a 2008 328xi 6MT with 85K that I've had for a year now. Thanks for your videos! Just discovered your channel and instantly subscribed.
Nice, you took off the power distribution box of the battery. It makes removing the battery much way easier. Why didn't you remove the power distribution box on the last video you did two weeks ago?
Yeah lol I wasn't thinking for some reason. I guess that shows you can get it out either way but I'd recommend to removing it.
@@VehicularDIY keep up the great videos.
Somewhat, remotely, okay not really related, but when you did your VTG/transfer case fluid change on your X5, what did you use to reset the CBS/adaptations for the transfer case? Or did you do a reset? In some diag tools there's a "Change Oil" reset in the drive VTG section. In other tools it's not there. My Foxwell tool has a module reset, but I'm a little worried about trying it.
Hey really love your content I recently bought a e90 320d and already order the lsd kit you installed to your car too many thanks for that! I’d like to ask if by any chance you could do a video of retrofitting power folding mirrors! Is the next mod I want to do and a video would be extremely helpful! Many thanks keep doing what you do!
Hey thanks for watching! Folding power mirrors actually came standard on my car. I can imagine the retrofit part is easy and you might have to do some minor coding to the NFRM module so they close when you lock your car.
Vehicular DIY I know sort of what I have to do with wiring, could you make a small tutorial just for the coding part? As far as I know I need to replace mirrors switches and passenger door harness and then route 2 wires to the passenger harness one 12v and one that will go to the Lin bus! I will figure it out as soon as start digging! Unfortunately am not familiar with the coding software I am about to install it to my laptop and a step by step guide for coding the NFRM module would be a true gift! Of course if you can’t spent that time I understand you have already give a lot of content, and thanks for that!
Use ista d for this. Much simpler/easier
Isn't it the same to change the capacity and type of the battery in FSW_PSW.TRC file using ncs dummy, then export it to FSW_PSW.MAN file and code this file to your CAS module using NCS Expert? I think that you should also need to change your VO data. You should add A090 and will have to delete B080.
How long do AGM batteries last? I have my BMW for 10years now and have never replaced the battery - I bought it when it was only 2years old so i would assume that it had never been replaced before, so that means it's been 12years for the battery. Should I worry about replacing it soon?
Just replaced a AGM in a E70 (original 2012!) but paid the price of letting it go way too long. Was in dealer for recall work 2019 fall, they tested the batter and said it's original but tests out good, said maybe it was replaced and not registered at some point (?) they still recommended replacing, I figured I would do it rather than pay $600 for a battery at the dealer. I neglected and 4 months later car dies while driving, starts throwing all sorts of odd codes. I replace the battery and figure I'll take it to indy shop to have registered (same exact agm replacement). Still random dies while driving and throws codes that say the alternator / regulator are bad. Take it to indy shop, they register the new battery and it's still throwing codes:
4C2C: mass air flow sensor, range
4990: exhaust back pressure sensor before turbo plausibility
4121: main relay
4A18 Generator
Replaced the alternator (w/relay) came and picked car up and it died on the highway on the way home, just like before, restarted drove back to shop and left again, wouldn't start for them for a good while, short cranks of 3 seconds and nothing....
new codes:
4BF0: Nitrogen oxide sensor after cat
48EC: Pressure sensor plausibility
After researching, I asked them to try less costly things than $800.00 alternators (installed) and it pointed to the CAS and finally threw a crank sensor fault. That was way cheaper than sending the CAS out to be redone so they replaced the crank sensor and cleared codes and test drove for 3 days and we believe that the low voltage / battery sent the E70 electric system into a downward spiral that took multiple clearings to get the junk out of the system and get voltage correct again, turned out the crank sensor was the only real bad part in the end Other than battery), but I ended up with a new alternator I didn't need, the shop felt bad so discounted additional diagnostic time... this could have been a whole lot worse, but still cost almost 2k additional in BS. because I let the battery go to long. Won't make that mistake twice.
Oh forgot to say, great videos! Thanks!!
This is just cool that you love literally within a 30 min radius from me lol.
Swapping the battery in my e90 328xi and I found out it already has an AGM battery. Very curious? I'm pretty sure my car has the cold weather package so maybe they naturally came with an AGM with the cold weather package because they're very good in harsh environments? Works for me; northern PA gets pretty nasty sometimes.
Could you confirm that this process is the same for e60 N53 engine?
I currently using a normal lead acid battery din 100, somehow Im having charging issue, even replaced with new alternator but didnt solve the problem. I use schwaben tool to monitor the livedata on the charge voltage when the engine run which show sometime 13.3v and sometime t goes 13.9v/14v. But still have code for alternator missing and bsd for alternator, waterpump & oil condition sensor. Also the ibs cable is also replaced and now make me think that I should replace the battery with AGM type. By the way, my ride is E60 523i with N52 engine.
question ... when you hit "B Change" in INPA .. does that automatically reset adaptations?
dont understand why your "upgrading" to AGM when all these cars come with AGM style batteries
nevermind .... my aplogies, not all these cars come with AGM style batteries
Have you considered adding a 2f cap? Always helped with high end stero systems and has helped with older cars I've had.
That's an interesting suggestion, hopefully this AGM battery delivers all the current the car requires now.
I have a stereo system in my e92. Would you recommend a battery that can support the car and system?
Yes, sir! The charging profile makes a difference for sure. What's the best way to reach you? I have a question regarding my auto trans.
Hey you could email me. You'll find that info on the contact section of my channel.
The whole INPA, NCS EXPERT, NCS DUMMY, BMW TOOLS, Etc options coding seems way too mysterious to me and I’m no slouch when it comes to technology. But I watched your video here and it seems as though you’ve had training or extensive brute force trial and error lessons with these software tools. When something which ought to be rather simple such as registering a new battery takes such lengthy and convoluted procedures with multiple software modules then I have two problems. I find it doubtful these tools will ever be actually usable by me without explicit, step by step instructions for any given task. I know because I’ve bought the software and the pass-through and tried using them - mostly to no good end. Moreover, I invested in an Autel Maxisys elite system and although this has enabled me to accomplish many more tadks. I find myself worried that the simple procedure it followed to register my new AGM battery may not actually be doing all the coding necessary to make sure the charging strategy or profile is correct. How can I check if it is??
Love your channel btw, you’ve helped me a great deal with my E70 x5👍🏻👍🏻
Missfires wont be anything to do with battery, full load from ignition even over 1000bhp is like 7 amps. Your rad fan pulls wayyy more than any of the engine components
Scotty Kilmer channel said that a weak battery is not good because it allows Interference from the alternator and other high voltage electronics like HID or sparks to propagate. This “bad quality electricity” will ruin your electronics in the long run.
I got an AGM for my 135i it's a 75ah, is that ok? It was the same size as the one I took out. Trouble is that the electric steering wheel lock light came on now it won't crank over. Can you please tell me which adapter is best to use with the protool app.
Would this this procedure be similar for the e60?
I have an e90 m3.. I need to choose mss660 to do all this but it’s in German. I choose the msd80(incorrect ecu) and that’s in English. But I can’t do these steps with an e90 m3 because it’s in German. Any ideas of a work around?
İ need some help about codding battery
İ have 2002 bmw 745 i cahange battery from 110 ah to 105ah agm but agm batteries not on the list i cant choose agm i think i have to change fa/vo but i dont know how can you help me
So if u want to register my battery just follow last steps ?
Hi. Im abit confused with my car I got a 2009 e92 320d m sport highline. This car has alot of gadgets with it and the start and stop.
Original battery lasted for 11 years. It says 90ah 900cc
Doesnt have the agm logo but eveeytime i googled the car vin kept saying its a agm spec battery.
I used carly i am.not sure that the old battery ah was at it could be 80ah or 90ah.
Will it be a problem i seleceted it at (90ah agm)
where did you get this battery,cant find this one?
I bought an ODP-AGM49 H8 L5 for my e60 n54. coding with protool how do i know which AGM ah I code it too?
How do you know what amp hour your battery is mine only has crank amps on the sticker
Typically you would either find the reserve capacity listed or the amp hour rating. If you can only find the CCA I'd try to look online for the specs.
What part number is it on agm
Don’t you have a video that summarizes all of the repairs that you have done on your 335I? Can you tell me the title I can’t find it anywhere in your video list. Thx!!
Yeah that video is here: th-cam.com/video/NRKVKOPUu1Q/w-d-xo.html
Any chance you can do this coding to me ? I'm at the Houston area and I don't own a laptop that's my biggest peoblem and my battery it's about to die I need to upgrade it
Just so y’all know if there’s vents on the top , it’s an AGM . And interstate batteries supplies ALL DEALERSHIPS. Only difference is the sticker 😎
Hey! Is the directory for NCS expert made when you install the program? And that directory will populate with items as i code different files, and can then use those to push into the car?
Yes that's right, download the software and then follow the thread to set it up and you're ready to code. No messing with daten files etc. Pretty easy now.
@Vehicular DIY Could you have settle for an H7 instead of an H8? Most sites list the H7 as the OEM equivalent for my car (2013 328i xDrive) and yours. I need to change mine and wondering if there’s a real benefit of installing an H8 over the H7.
Bump
hi, windows 11 doesnt support your files.!!!!! sad
hello and thanks for the vid. i'm about to tackle this on my 2007 335xi. i'm confused why to choose E89 instead of E90?
E89 covers the whole range. From Z4 to the 3 series.
Just realised i have the original battery on my 2009 E91 318D. Soh 75%.
Hello could i ask you some help?
Will this coding work for a 07 328i
what happens if its not strong
How much you selling that e90 for?
What for mAh Battery?
Is there anyway to contact you?
They say OPTIMA can make much lager current，is that fit？Or use some lithium battery
Any AGM should be able to supply more current.
Hi, nice tutorial, but unless I'm mistaken, this method will not update the VO of the car. If your car never goes in a dealer shop, probably not a big deal, but it's best to keep it in sync with what is installed in it.
In this case, the end of the VO (in both CAS and FRM modules) must be updated from '-A080' to '-B090'.
This VO coding can be done from INPA tools (see blog.uobdii.com/register-and-code-a-new-bmw-battery-comprehensive-guide/ for example).
David
Hey do 2008 335i cars come standard with “AGM” style batteries ??
No I believe some come with lead acid also.
Do I need to code/register battery if i'm changing from 90 ah to 90 ah?
Yes so the car can adjust it's charging profile based on a fresh battery being installed.
Lead Acid flooded was standard on your year? Wow! Did you check for corrosion in the battery compartment?
Highly recommend the American Odyssey 94-950 www.odysseybattery.com/Batteries/Model_49950 with the very pure lead plates. Exceeds the excellent OEM battery in everyday including warranty. Dekka is the only other USA battery maker of whom I am aware.
Interstate and Optima moved to Mexico over a decade ago.
Yeah it was standard. This Interstate AGM battery I installed was made last month and has a sticker saying made in Germany on it. Hopefully it holds up. It has a 3 year warranty.
@@VehicularDIY Yeah it should be good. I bet the Germans have the purer lead than Mexico. A lot of the retail parts houses ones are not quite up to OEM specifications.
Why does INPA say you have MSD80 when you switched out to MSD81 and had it coded?
PPK2 (335is) has the heavier duty alternator and 800W cooling fan. Most of the later F8x M cars have Lithium-Ion these days I believe?
The 7 Series has two of these AGM batteries, I believe.