I always enjoy your way of solving problems and especially your humor and stoicism. I would like to have a little of that too. It's always a pleasure to watch your videos and learn something more.
Michel, Your chuck looks like an Albrecht and is not pressed together but unscrews. To make it easier for me there are several videos on TH-cam. Good luck! Karl
Your faulty drill chuck is an Albrecht chuck, you can find videos called "The Albrecht Chuck Video - Tune Up - Tear Down - How To Do It" and "What is an ALBRECHT KEYLESS CHUCK #928 tubalcain jacobs rohm" which will show you how to fix it very clearly.
Hi Michel, that looks a good 'un!! So many steps on the way to get there too. Always enjoy seeing your enthusiasm, good humour and hard work!! Have a great weekend!!
Gday, brilliant job, definitely handy having 2 lathes, making tools always involves making extra tools which makes it interesting, great episode mate, cheers
Seeing as you have mastered turning tapers, this would be a good mission for you too Matty - just do a 30 taper instead. Great way to save Z axis height. I have a few 40 taper collets.
A very nice result Michel, that has come out perfectly and one one hundredth of a millimetre run out is bloody perfect for a home shop made tool. Also you will never wear that out unless you abuse it! 10/10 sir!
That looks like an Albrecht style drill chuck. If it is, Tom Lipton (oxtools) did a great video on how to disassemble and clean it. Glad you had better luck with the slitting saw than I did!
Did you see the 5C collet holder I made? you could make one that fits both your lathes and transfer parts between all your machines. As usual another cool project!!
@@Rustinox You did well. The B&S collet is much better than the R8 in my opinion. They are a slower taper and hold better, no keyway needed. The only negative is that they get stuck in the spindle. Wells Index has a self ejecting draw bar that resolves this problem. I had to make one for mine, it was missing when I got my mill. No more hammer.
Good job mate. Another project for you to consider, is to make the bigger bore collets that you don't have that fit into the U2/MT4 (MK4) adapter. Where you put the 25mm diameter on the collet you just made, make it 20mm and screw a 2mm pitch buttress thread to suit the deckel draw bar. (Direktspannzange MK4 S20x2 - Franz Singer website) Alternatively, you can just make a new drawbar to fit the deckel spindle that screws into the other MT4 collets you have already, but it is a pain to keep changing from one to the other. I have also found that there is usually enough taper shank on most cheap eBay MT4 arbors to machine down and turn the 20x2 thread on the end. You can also purchase M16 - S20x2 adapters on various sites. Nothing like having direct fit collets and arbors to suit the deckel spindle (Maho MH7 in my case) Cheers
Great video! 👍 Yeah dont be afraid to make collets, they dont need to be ground and dont even need to be that hard if you treat them respectfully. My 2 main use collets in my CNC router were made by me just out of some mild steel bar, they are very concentric and have performed well for years. I designed them with longer "extended jaws" so they give better shaft support on 6mm and 1/8 cutting tool shanks than normal collets.
Yes,it is a great collet,Michel.Your direct,rational approach and evaluation of an issue makes it an invaluable tool to any problem solving situation.Thank you.
But there is a problem...... I admire your problem solving skills and that you are seemingly unafraid to try unconventional solutions. I'm surprised that M10x1.0 tap didn't materialize out of thin air the moment you broke down your 14 degree set up on the mill. Thanks for the video
I aplied the law of, having two (lathes) to all my other appliancies... Now its hard to enter the workshop. Also I hope this law doesn´t aply to a forklift :-0
That came out spot on Michel, good work as usual. It would be interesting to know what that hard steel is, or to test how hard it is with some hardness files.
Hi Michel, you are using the wrong tappig size for M16 x 2 threads the correct size is 14mm, for any other 60 degree metric thread simply subtract the thread pitch from the diameter. Love watching your video capers, keep it up.
It looks like these are the secret technologies that Chinese manufacturers have never mastered. All the Morse cones I purchased have a runout of more than 5 hundred mm.
Hi Michael, your Albright chuck, I believe, threads apart at the knurled line where the pin wrench hole is. I also believe that Jeremy of "Jeremy makes things" site recently found one all rusted up, and he refurbished it. Steffen Gottsweiler also did a video on repairing one. For that piece of very hard steel, you need some ceramic inserts. Unfortunately, I believe them to be disgustingly EXPENSIVE. So, annealing that piece is probably a good alternative. Watch CEE for use of ceramics on chrome bar work by Kurtis. What are the collets you're trying to make. What taper? Thanks for the video from Canada's banana belt. 🤞🇨🇦🍌🥋🇺🇦🕊🇧🇪👍
That came out quite nice 👏 Have you tried using cermet inserts for hardened steel ? If not, sharp carbide inserts for aluminium would work too to get through the hardened layer.
Open the chuck all the way and look inside, there should be a hex bolt or screw in the bottom helping to hold the chuck on. After loosening the bolt/screw take a hex key and place in the short side into the chuck and tighten it, then with a little force you should be able to unscrew the chuck head from the body. If this is unclear you can find all sorts of videos showing the process, it's fairly straightforward. 👍👍
Wouldn't it been easier to simply thread the ID of the existing collets? Pick some convenient size and make a drawbar to match? Thread the collets as needed. Cheers.
Great video! Just thinking out loud, could you make a hollow drawbar with an internal thread that matches your old collets? Then the outside diameter of the drawbar may not exceed the ID of the dividing head?
Some chucks have a bolt or screw inside, at the bottom of the three jaws. does yours have that? Some simply require the outside shell to be completely unscrewed: th-cam.com/video/dppoqo6SLMg/w-d-xo.htmlsi=vCkmhFfnXrkkPk4a
@@Rustinox No problem! I also just realized that Ox Tools also has a good video about this kind of chuck, hope it helps, good luck!! th-cam.com/video/h_jQ7-UiWgI/w-d-xo.html
If that's an albrecht, you need a special tool to take it aart. It's easy enough to make, though, basically a collar. I did my 0-10mm albrecht myself, easy enough to do as pointed out by @AdrianTechWizard
I always enjoy your way of solving problems and especially your humor and stoicism. I would like to have a little of that too. It's always a pleasure to watch your videos and learn something more.
I could not articulate it better 👍
I couldn’t have said it better
Thank you very much for your kind words.
Hi Michel, love the friday afternoon videos you publish. Thanks. Slitting collets would be a great use of a home made wire EDM :)
Maybe a new project :)
G'day Rusti. Nice work mate. You must be happy with those results mate. You can't beat your own shop made tools. Cheers, Aaron
Thanks. Making things is fun.
Michel, Your chuck looks like an Albrecht and is not pressed together but unscrews. To make it easier for me there are several videos on TH-cam. Good luck! Karl
There are no markings on it, butI will check YT. Thanks for the tip.
Your faulty drill chuck is an Albrecht chuck, you can find videos called "The Albrecht Chuck Video - Tune Up - Tear Down - How To Do It" and "What is an ALBRECHT KEYLESS CHUCK #928 tubalcain jacobs rohm" which will show you how to fix it very clearly.
Thanks for the tip. Will do.
@@Rustinox www.youtube.com/@mrpete222/search?query=ALBRECHT
Hi Michel, that looks a good 'un!! So many steps on the way to get there too. Always enjoy seeing your enthusiasm, good humour and hard work!!
Have a great weekend!!
Thanks David.
I like it... making a collet for you dividing head using a collet on your dividing head... clever.
Well, one has to start somewhere :)
Gday, brilliant job, definitely handy having 2 lathes, making tools always involves making extra tools which makes it interesting, great episode mate, cheers
Absolutely right. Thanks Matty.
Seeing as you have mastered turning tapers, this would be a good mission for you too Matty - just do a 30 taper instead. Great way to save Z axis height. I have a few 40 taper collets.
A very nice result Michel, that has come out perfectly and one one hundredth of a millimetre run out is bloody perfect for a home shop made tool. Also you will never wear that out unless you abuse it! 10/10 sir!
Thanks. I'm happy with the result.
That looks like an Albrecht style drill chuck. If it is, Tom Lipton (oxtools) did a great video on how to disassemble and clean it. Glad you had better luck with the slitting saw than I did!
Thanks for the tip.
Superb result! 👍
Thanks.
Great video Michel. Collets are great and like you show, you are only a few steps away from owning the same. Enjoyed, cheers!
Thanks.
Great job, love watching your videos
Thanks Steve.
Did you see the 5C collet holder I made? you could make one that fits both your lathes and transfer parts between all your machines. As usual another cool project!!
Good idea.
Michele, great job making your first collet! I get excited when you say there is a problem. I know I am going to enjoy watching you figure it out.
If there isn't a problem, I can't make a video about it :)
Great job, well done!
Thanks.
Improvise, adapt and overcome. Well done Michel.
That's the spirit :)
Good job Michel, came out nice, shiny and more importantly concentric.
Thanks.
Wow... Lots of work. Looks like a B&S 9. That's what I have in my mill.
And fun to do :)
@@Rustinox You did well. The B&S collet is much better than the R8 in my opinion. They are a slower taper and hold better, no keyway needed. The only negative is that they get stuck in the spindle. Wells Index has a self ejecting draw bar that resolves this problem. I had to make one for mine, it was missing when I got my mill. No more hammer.
You always seem to work things out. Good for you!
That's the plan anyway.
Good job mate. Another project for you to consider, is to make the bigger bore collets that you don't have that fit into the U2/MT4 (MK4) adapter. Where you put the 25mm diameter on the collet you just made, make it 20mm and screw a 2mm pitch buttress thread to suit the deckel draw bar. (Direktspannzange MK4 S20x2 - Franz Singer website) Alternatively, you can just make a new drawbar to fit the deckel spindle that screws into the other MT4 collets you have already, but it is a pain to keep changing from one to the other. I have also found that there is usually enough taper shank on most cheap eBay MT4 arbors to machine down and turn the 20x2 thread on the end. You can also purchase M16 - S20x2 adapters on various sites. Nothing like having direct fit collets and arbors to suit the deckel spindle (Maho MH7 in my case)
Cheers
I will give it some thought...
Great video! 👍
Yeah dont be afraid to make collets, they dont need to be ground and dont even need to be that hard if you treat them respectfully.
My 2 main use collets in my CNC router were made by me just out of some mild steel bar, they are very concentric and have performed well for years.
I designed them with longer "extended jaws" so they give better shaft support on 6mm and 1/8 cutting tool shanks than normal collets.
I also think these will work just fine.
I've always said, "Where there is a will, There is a way" It turned out flash as a Rat with a gold tooth, well done. 👍
Just go for it.
truthfully enjoy problem solving always learn something amused to boot
Thanks.
Michel, Awesome turned out great. The process of making a tool to make a tool to use in a tool is never ending 😁😁
Spot on.
Most excellent, Rusti. You really made a great job of that. All the best, Mart.
Thanks Mart.
I do love your vintage vacume cleaner, mum had a similar one in the 70's, as usual, great video mate!
And it works very well.
I like your collets a lot!
Well, me too :)
Brilliant another Rustinox video.
With a quite excellent result.
Thanks.
Yes,it is a great collet,Michel.Your direct,rational approach and evaluation of an issue makes it an invaluable tool to any problem solving situation.Thank you.
Don't know what it means but it sounds good :)
Just settling down to watch Rusti
Happy days mate
Nice. Thanks Ralfy.
Perfect result Michel. More satisfying to make than to buy. ATB Cheers Nobby
Thanks. Sure thing :)
Nice one rusty. Inspiring as always. I'm ever so envious of your dekel
It is a very nice toy indeed :)
That's a really neat job Michel. I have not tried the slitting saws yet. I'm looking forward to that, when I have the right project. Cheers Paul
Go for it, Paul.
Thanks Rusti, your collet turned out so well! 👍
Thanks.
But there is a problem......
I admire your problem solving skills and that you are seemingly unafraid to try unconventional solutions. I'm surprised that M10x1.0 tap didn't materialize out of thin air the moment you broke down your 14 degree set up on the mill. Thanks for the video
Normally that's indeed what happens, but not this time.
Now I know, Why I need another Lathe ;-).... I just have to make my wife understand it too 🙂 Cheers from Denmark
when you figure out how to do that -PLEASE tell! Cheers from Sweden
Buy first. Explane later :)
@@Rustinox That's how I do it or:
Honey "It will keep me in the garage longer, so I don't bother you"
@@Rustinox Thank you Master ;-)
@@hedning003 Will do, but I think Rusti got the answer ;-)
As we say in Yorkshire " jobs a good un "👍
Nice. Thanks.
Hi Rustinox Tom Lipton at Ox Tools has an excellent video on stripping/overhauling Albrecht type chucks.
Regards, John Johnson
Thanks for the tip, John.
Very nice work sir. You always makes my brain go in overdrive. He he. Great
Oops...
I aplied the law of, having two (lathes) to all my other appliancies... Now its hard to enter the workshop. Also I hope this law doesn´t aply to a forklift :-0
Don't focus to much on rules and regulations. Where is the workshop rebel in you? :)
Another win Rustinox. Your milling machine is very versatile. Great work........Tony
Thanks Tony.
Great accurate work Michel. Nicely done.
Steve.
Thanks Steve.
Great video rusty, keep'um coming.
That's the plan.
That came out spot on Michel, good work as usual. It would be interesting to know what that hard steel is, or to test how hard it is with some hardness files.
Well, I don't have any hardness testing tools.
Very nice work Michel. That's great that you can do that.
You can do that too. Just go for it.
Very well done - I like the approach and your very practical "just go for it" mind set. Say it can be done - and it can be!
It can be done. Just go for it.
Great result . All over it like a cheap suit ! 👍👍👍
And it works :)
Hi Michel, you are using the wrong tappig size for M16 x 2 threads the correct size is 14mm, for any other 60 degree metric thread simply subtract the thread pitch from the diameter.
Love watching your video capers, keep it up.
M14 as well as M16 has a pitch of 2mm.
lovely job Michel
atb
kev (uk)
Thanks Kev.
It looks like these are the secret technologies that Chinese manufacturers have never mastered. All the Morse cones I purchased have a runout of more than 5 hundred mm.
Well there is no secret. Just go for it.
very nice work man 🙂👍👌
Thanks.
Interesting project. Thank you! The work holding concentricity was impressive.
Or maybe I was just lucky. Wo knows?
good job!
Thanks.
Hi Michael,
your Albright chuck, I believe, threads apart at the knurled line where the pin wrench hole is.
I also believe that Jeremy of "Jeremy makes things" site recently found one all rusted up, and he refurbished it. Steffen Gottsweiler also did a video on repairing one.
For that piece of very hard steel, you need some ceramic inserts. Unfortunately, I believe them to be disgustingly EXPENSIVE. So, annealing that piece is probably a good alternative.
Watch CEE for use of ceramics on chrome bar work by Kurtis.
What are the collets you're trying to make. What taper?
Thanks for the video from Canada's banana belt.
🤞🇨🇦🍌🥋🇺🇦🕊🇧🇪👍
I don't know what taper it is. It's the one in the spindle of the Deckel.
Size does not matter as long as the size is longer then expected 😂
That makes sense.
That came out quite nice 👏 Have you tried using cermet inserts for hardened steel ? If not, sharp carbide inserts for aluminium would work too to get through the hardened layer.
Thanks for the tip. I will have to try that.
Open the chuck all the way and look inside, there should be a hex bolt or screw in the bottom helping to hold the chuck on. After loosening the bolt/screw take a hex key and place in the short side into the chuck and tighten it, then with a little force you should be able to unscrew the chuck head from the body. If this is unclear you can find all sorts of videos showing the process, it's fairly straightforward. 👍👍
Thanks for the tip. I will give it a go.
very nice machines :)
Thanks.
@@Rustinox your welcome
Thanks.
:)
You never Disappoint Good onya
Thanks.
Nice job.
Thanks.
Yup, go for it !!
That's the spirit.
Excellent! As far hardening have you considered case hardening. I bought the stuff but haven't tried it yet.
Nope. I will leave it as is. It works just fine.
Love your videos dude...
Nice. Thanks.
Which taper has the quill in the Celtic?
I have several drill chucks laying around
You can have one
This is morse taper 3.
@@Rustinox ok
I send you a little parcel
@@martindietrich2011 You're a hero, Martin. Thank you very much.
Wouldn't it been easier to simply thread the ID of the existing collets? Pick some convenient size and make a drawbar to match? Thread the collets as needed. Cheers.
I didn't think of that. I will see if it's possible.
Great video! Just thinking out loud, could you make a hollow drawbar with an internal thread that matches your old collets? Then the outside diameter of the drawbar may not exceed the ID of the dividing head?
Good idea. I will check if it's possible.
Ce glorieux "Fuck it!" que Cambronne n'aurait pas renié à Waterloo lors du dernier carré... Sinon, très bonne vidéo, as usual.
Well, you know your history. I had to look it up :)
Maybe two milling machines ?
Maybe, but I have the shaper as a substitute :)
Hi I have some written information on Llambrich chucks if that is the correct make
I don't know what it is. There are no markings on it.
Hi Michel, I am from the Netherlands and also have a Celtec 14, but my question is can you tell me where and which 4claw did you buy?
This one comes from Amazon, made by Sanu. It's a 200 mm chuck.
👍😎
Thanks.
Thanks.
Some chucks have a bolt or screw inside, at the bottom of the three jaws. does yours have that? Some simply require the outside shell to be completely unscrewed: th-cam.com/video/dppoqo6SLMg/w-d-xo.htmlsi=vCkmhFfnXrkkPk4a
Thanks for the link. This will be useful.
@@Rustinox No problem! I also just realized that Ox Tools also has a good video about this kind of chuck, hope it helps, good luck!! th-cam.com/video/h_jQ7-UiWgI/w-d-xo.html
.. size doesn't matter 🤭
That's what I heard.
If that's an albrecht, you need a special tool to take it aart. It's easy enough to make, though, basically a collar. I did my 0-10mm albrecht myself, easy enough to do as pointed out by @AdrianTechWizard
Thanks for the tip.
Another good adventure! Thanks.
Thanks.