CHAINSAW CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENT: Why they are Actually Needed!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 พ.ย. 2024
- CHAINSAW CARBURETOR SETTINGS: Have you ever wondered why they are needed?
Well, this Video effortlessly explains why Carburetors Actually Need Adjustment Screws! Step-by Step and easy to follow. Let's Go!
Chainsaw carburetors and other engines feature adjuster screws that control the fuel-air mixture that enters the combustion chamber. These screws enable the carburetor's performance to be fine-tuned in accordance with particular operating conditions and requirements. Here are some explanations on why carburetors need adjuster screws and why they need to be adjusted:
Fuel-Air Mixture Regulation: Carburetors combine the right amount of fuel and air for burning. The adjuster screws, which are also referred to as the idle mixture screw and the high-speed mixture screw, regulate how much gasoline and air enter the engine. The user can alter the fuel-to-air ratio to enhance engine performance by rotating these screws.
Operating Conditions: A number of variables, including altitude, temperature, humidity, and air density, can affect the fuel-air mixture requirements of an engine. These modifications can be compensated for by adjusting the carburetor screws. For instance, a leaner fuel mixture may be required to sustain effective combustion at higher elevations when the air is less thick.
Wear and tear on internal engine parts, such as piston rings, valves, and seals over time may have an impact on the flow of fuel and air. In order to accommodate these changes and retain optimal performance, the carburetor might need to be adjusted.
Maintenance and service: Debris, old gasoline deposits, or varnish buildup can cause carburetors to become dirty or blocked. To guarantee appropriate fuel flow and combustion, modifications may be needed when cleaning or servicing the carburetor.
Upgrades: The fuel-air mixture specifications may change if the engine undergoes changes or aftermarket upgrades, such as replacing the air filter, the exhaust system, or the intake components. To optimise performance and match the new setup, carburetor tweaks are required.
Normal Wear and Settling: The carburetor's components may gradually settle or move somewhat as a result of usage, temperature changes, and vibrations. The fuel-air mixture may change as a result of this settling, requiring correction.
The manufacturer's instructions and recommendations should be carefully followed while making carburetor modifications. Poor engine performance, increased fuel consumption, or even engine damage might result from a carburetor that has not been correctly tuned. It is advised to seek professional advice or check the manufacturer's instructions for carburetor adjustment methods if unsure or unskilled.
Have a Great Day
Craig Kirkman (Owner and creator of The Repair Specialist Channel)
#CarburetorAdjustment #FuelAirMixture #EnginePerformance #OperatingConditions #Altitude #Temperature #Humidity #AirDensity #CarburetorMaintenance #EngineMaintenance #CarburetorScrews #EngineTuning #CarburetorSettings #FuelMixtureRegulation #CarburetorUpgrades #CarburetorCleaning #EngineRepair #EngineMaintenance #FuelFlow #EngineTuningTips #EngineAdjustment
Hi guys I just wanted to Introduce to you my other Channel "Things to Know" - which i'm just getting started. It's a go-to channel for insightful worldly explanations, handy tips, and expert advice on everyday things and repairs of domestic items. Here is the link: th-cam.com/channels/O8P9x5kUZ44Fb11vanLFsg.html
Very helpful. I DIY 95% of mechanical things around my house and I find your videos help me have a deeper understanding of things mechanical rather than just reading a repair guide or watching a typical YT repair video. Thank you.
Thank you for your feedback. I really appreciate it. Craig 👍
I love the way you present your videos. So clear and informative, such a great help thank you 👍. I really don't need to go to anyone else for the answers.
Wow, that’s some of the best feedback I’ve had. I appreciate it some much. Thanks again. Craig 👍👍👍👍
Craig, another excellent and informative video. Most people probably don’t care but I enjoy not only knowing how something works but why it works which makes repairs done correctly the first time. Thanks for sharing all of your knowledge. Artie 👍
Thank Artie. I really appreciate your comments and feedback. Craig 👍👍👍
As always very good advice sir 😊
Thank you very much sir, I have benefited alot from your videos. Your illustration an diagram make it so easier to understand. Bless you for sharing your professional knowledge to all of us, from Trinidad
Thank for taking the time to leave a nice comment. I really appreciate it. Craig 👍
Thank you for another fine lesson. Yes I've always been scared of those adjustment screws but now I understand why they are there. 😁
Thank you for your awesome feedback. I really appreciate it. Thanks again. Craig 👍👍
Very well explained Craig! You are indeed a specialist. Keep up the good work
Thank you for your awesome feedback. I really appreciate it. Thanks again. Craig 👍👍
Another great video Craig, thank you. Everything in it makes perfect sense, however there is something I don't understand. My Stihl MS180 chainsaw has no mixture adjustment screws whatsoever. It runs the same whatever time of year it is. How come?
Thank you for you supportive feedback as well. I really appreciate it. Craig 👍
Like your stuff Craig.
Thank you Mark 👍👍👍
Hi again Craig. Any thoughts yet on my MS180 not having any adjustment screws?
Hi. Sorry, I meant to answer your question much sooner. Your Stihl MS 180 does need its air/fuel ration adjusted similar to any other two stroke chainsaw carb, but you as the operator do not have to do it. Instead, it has a “Compensator” built into its design that alters this ratio automatically as you continue to use it. This is why you only need to replace the air filter on the MS180 when it becomes really clogged. It’s the compensator allowing you as the operator more ease and simplicity of use. I hope this helps. Craig
I will do a video on this soon.
That explains it. Thanks
If I don't adjust my carb between summer and winter could I damage my saw? +30 to -30 *c
Not necessarily but it might not run right. Not definitely the case, but may not. I have known many many times
@@TheRepairSpecialist ok thank-you. I'll be keeping an eye on it more now. Huskvarna 455 rancher. Not cheap 😅
Well done!! BUT- I know this is heresy but watching this makes me think a clogged air filter should NOT alter the screw settings! Seriously-- a reduction of TOTAL airflow is not the same as oxygen/cc of air... If airflow (of same oxygen-level air source) is reduced, and airflow is what pulls fuel into the carb, then a "choked filter" should NOT mean alteration of air/fuel (it should simply mean an even, balanced reduction of BOTH)
Would love someone's thoughts on this! I always thought bad filter = tighten your fuel screws, but now cannot see that as rational....choked air filter should get no benefit from altering the carb as the choked airflow should ALREADY pull a lower, corresponding pull from the fuel jets..
Ok, you are more than allowed to view your opinion. Thanks
All Episodes -for 2-Stroke Carburetors Here. Thanks. Craig:
th-cam.com/play/PLrlXp3PlwgRI5OLvm3P91LJr1CYnO5TRD.html
I disagree, in 4 cycle gasoline (petrol) engines the carburetors all have fixed jets and correctly meter the fuel over a wide range of temperature and altitude. The is different in 2 cycle engines is that they run on "pre-mix". Both air and the fuel can be considered "fluids" but with very different viscosities. A carburetor works by mixing these two as a function of their viscosities, both air and petrol have a relatively constant viscosities, whereas the viscosity of the "pre-mix" varies by different mix ratios, and the viscosity (brand) of oil. If you were to ALWAYS to use the same oil, and same mix ratio, you would never have to readjust.
Do some research and you will see that even 4 cycle engines have varying differences in their performance as a result of Altitude, and extreme temps. I can tell you from experience that small engines like on chainsaws are sensitive to the issues I presented in the video. I should know, over the last 30 years I have had to adjust them to suit my weather condition many, upon many, of times
@@TheRepairSpecialist : All naturally aspirated engines will loose power at altitude, typically about 3% per 1,000 ft (1% / 100 m.) in elevation because there is less oxygen/air. Yes, some fixed jet carburetors at high altitudes, like above about 2,000 m, or 6,600 ft can sometimes benefit from re-jetting, but that is typically with older ones, as newer ones like even on smaller decade old motorcycles are altitude corrected, and typically require no modification below 3,000 m, 10,000 ft or higher. As you mention weather (temperature), I agree, BUT again it is because of viscosity of the fuel, as "pre-mix", on account of the oil added, has a greater change in viscosity with cold than straight petrol. I was in Cusco, Peru decades ago and even at 11,100 ft, 3,400 m, (approximately 2/3 atm) few cars required re-jetting, although they (and people too) were down a third in power because of less oxygen/air. As a benefit, cars up there could run on 80 octane without knocking. My "guess" is that in something like a leaf blower, that has a constant load, and you simply adjust the "hi" jet for maximum rpm, you might find that pre-mix with "synthetic 2 cycle oil" requires less re-adjusting with change in temperature than with conventional oil as synthetic oil typically has a higher viscosity index (resistance to viscosity change with temperature).
@@johndavidwolf4239 I would like to see this explained in a video. Are you up for that??
@@TheRepairSpecialist : 1) I am not a video creator. I am not sure which part you are thinking of? 2) For viscosity, basically, if you need the same amount of a fluid (fuel) with the same force pulling it (manifold/Venturi vacuum) , if it is "thicker" (more viscous) it needs a bigger hole for it to pass through, like drinking water, vs a milk-shake through a straw. I am not sure how to show that in a video. I suppose you could make something like a "Saybolt universal viscosity (SUV)" tester (not calabrated to any standard) using the plastic body of a "turkey baster" (less bulb) with a short section of ball-point pen tube glued in, and time straight petrol, and "pre-mix" (two different mix ratios?) at both "room temp" and at the temprature of your home freezer? 3) For loss of power at altitude, it is simply that it is the air-fuel mixture burning in the cylinder that makes the power, at higher elevation, there is less air, so less air-fuel, so less power, again I am not sure how to show that in a video other than to show a graph of air pressure vs altatude.