This video was easy to follow considering I know nothing about cars and now my 2001 1.2 Clio is working a treat! No more cutting out at junctions or dodgy idling. Cheers for the video man!
This cured my Clio's 2002 1.2 Expression's issues. I can't thank this video enough for its assistance. My Clio has slowly been getting worse over the past 6 months and would cut out more regularly when stopping. Every time I pulled up to lights, roundabouts or to park etc... the electrical warning light would appear, revs would drop and the only way to save this would be to rev the engine a couple of times. The issue would be fine until I slowed down again. I took the car to 3 garages who all ran diagnostic test, changed the mapping and TDC sensors but nothing worked. Finally I came across this video, carried out the cleaning of the throttle body put it all back together and it worked. The car runs like new and has not cut out since.
Excellent video. Followed it through and cleaned my own throttle body (replacing a faulty air temperature sensor in the process). One small problem though, the video suggests the top bolts for the inlet manifold require an E6 socket. On my Clio, at least, they were E8 Torx bolts, rather than E6. Thankfully I'd bought both at Halfords just in case. Something to bear in mind before commencing the work!
I've did this a few days ago. ~20 years old. Haven't changed any gaskets, they seemed OK. I've used a paper clip to clean the hole shown at 09:00. If the paper clip has plastic, you have to remove it. The hole is really thin. Instead of carb cleaner I've used acetone. I can confirm E8 torx, for removing the inner parts I think it's a torx 30. On my car I have AC. There weren't any particular problems due to it. I've used various flexible/bendable/stiff adapters of various lengths to get to all of the screws. Prepare to be really creative. I've also had a problem with the capacitor of the ignition coils (shown here at 4:40). It was broken. I've replaced it with a normal 2.2 uF 100 V+ (I've used a 400 V one) capacitor soldered to the metal part and fixed with epoxy putty. Also the connectors of the ECU had signs of corrosion (blue-green crap). I've used KONTAKT 60 spray. Replaced also MAP filter which I've broken by trying to remove it to clean it. It was really hard to remove the wires to the spark plugs. I've used pliers under the widened part and raised the pliers on one side by pushing on the otherside down into the inlet manifold, basically using leverage to raise them. The hardest part was putting back the first fuel pipe (1:40). I've used some WD-40 to help me and a torx key to help me push on one button. I needed around 1 h to dissasemble, but I wasn't really rushing.
OK, after about two weeks it became a bit jittery ocassionaly and fuel consumption has been slowly rising. Torque on Android didn't show any errors, but CarScanner for Android (which probes extra errors) did. Also LTFT (fuel trim) has been +50% (which means, that there should be +50% more fuel, it stops at ~50% as above that the ECU doesn't allow) while idling and wasn't great while driving either. After an another 2 weeks even the error light on the dashboard lit up once. I've added first a an injector cleaner solution in the fuel, which helped a bit subjectively (and also measuring fuel trim), but not that much. I noticed that one HT lead had a detached rubber, possibly due to the previous work. I've made a special tool by buying an aluminium pipe 10x1 mm, I've cut it in 250 mm length and drilled with a 9 mm bit 25 mm deep. Then I've sanded the edges, so that they are sharp. I've attached the tool on the spark plug and gently tapped twice with the hammer and the rubber from the HT lead went from the spark plug on my tool. That way I was able to replace the HT leads (they come with a new ignition coil), that helped a bit, but still not totally. I've decided to reopen everything also because I had an oil leak (from before). I suspected the oil leak comes from the valve cover, which it did (that's under the cover of what it's shown in the video). I've changed the gaskets there too. They were really bad, hard and they even broke like glass. On some parts you have to add silicone: all 5 five screws on the back and on the side "humps". Got this from Haynes' manual. I've also noticed that the ECU has a gasket, which may be relevant to leaking air, which I didn't buy. I've applied thermal silicone instead. The gasket of the cover that it's shown in the video was quite bad. Haven't noticed before, because it seemed like solid plastic. I've changed this gasket (rectangular, with a notch, so that you don't turn it upside down, code 701 479). There's also a gasket on where the plastic tube, that was needed to be cleaned in the video. I think it's called "strainer something something gasket". In the local shop they've said that you can't buy it. That you can only get it if you buy the whole intake manifold. I've applied thermal silicone to it. I've also recheked the 4 triangular gaskets of the intake manifold and well they only seemed OK. Compared to new ones, they were quite hard. Changed those too. I've also removed the injectors and cleaned them in an ultrasonic bath of pure isopropanol for 30 min. I've ordered two types of gaskets for the injectors MCP-003 and MCP-004 because of a drawing. It should have been both MCP-003. I've also found in Haynes' manual specified torques for each tightenings and for the intake manifold there's a specific sequence and procedure, which I've followed. I've also applied Loctite on the screws as per the manual. When I've started the engine it wasn't jittery, but still I had the same LTFT, so I was disappointed and went to sleep. Next day I've tried putting all the spark plugs out. They were all white, indicating a very lean (too much air) mixture. I've changed the spark plugs, it was maybe better (at least subjectively), but not that much change on LTFT also still errors in the ECU. After that I decided to go around a bit and it seemed like it was getting progressively better. Then I stopped for an hour and went again. This time it was all fine. The fuel consumption went down by 1 L/100 km and there was no jitter also there were zero errors in the ECU.
Thanks for uploading this. I have just done this job on a mk1 Twingo 16v and it is ticking over much better. I would have struggled (even more!) to do this without your video..... many thanks.
The fuel gague works gets the signal from the float inside the tank, this car had the analogue gague but its still controlled in the same way as the digital. It sounds like there is still a loose wire somewhere, were any broken when removing connectors? and is the bolt shown at 4:34 back on correctly? How much fuel is in the tank because this clio if say £10 is put in when the fuel light is on its not enough to get it off.
Hi , Great video, gave me the confidence to tackle the Renault Twingo we have just bought. A lot less room than the Clio but still possible with your help, took the Cam cover off to cure the oil leak and check the valve clearances while I was there, also done the cam belt and fitted a new clutch. I am nearly 60 but still learnt from your video, many thanks, Mark
Thanks for the comment, and its great to hear it helped. Congratulations on the clutch change, it was one of them jobs that my clio would have benefited from but i never got round to doing.
Great video, thanks. My daughter has the Automatic version, cleaning the throttle body cured the following symptoms: Wouldn't change auto gears properly, Engine cut out at junctions, Stuck in second gear regardless of speed, sudden and dramatic loss of power, etc. Thank you again.
A fault code reader is whats needed, the dealers are expensive, so a mechanic might have a decent reader, i am yet to buy one myself and just get the lend of one a friend owns if i need it. But if you had a precise fault code then it would be easier to pinpoint the problem. Have you cleaned out the throttle body yet?
The timing belt, and auxilary belt are on the side of the headlight they could be making the noise, does it change with revs? It could be a number of things causing the problem, the first time i attached everything together the car was a bit lumpy when first stared but after a bit of revving it picked up. What condition is the wires around the engine is the HT leads and plug going into the coil good, sometimes problems with them can make the car run rough.
It sounds like the car is in limp mode, its hard to say exactly what is causing it without reading the fault codes. However it could be the coil for the spark plugs, But i would get it connected to an fault code reader to see what it says before buying new parts. What condition is the air filter in? Is there much oil on it at the moment?
You have used the plastic bag trick to keep bolts on the socket : ) I have a co worker with the same engine/car wich cut at intersections or when the cooling fan kick in. it has 180 000 kms. i will tell him about that. Thank you for video. Vey interesting. I guess the idle air control valve is built in the throttle body ? Is an Eobd scan tool ok for those cars ? I would like to buy one with this engine : Have you got advices or warning to give to me ?
michaelovitch A piece of paper or tissue is normally what i use for holding the bolt in place, but a plastic bag does the same trick. The cutting out at junctions issue should solve after a throttle body clean, but after the cooling fan kicks in is a bit strange i wonder if the alternator is working correctly
peugeotCitroen2CV I think the idle air control can't correctly adjust the idle when the load caused by the cooling fan appears. It must be all dirty i think,and it causes the engine to stall. Why would be the alternator causing problem according to you ? i don't get it. The amps sucked by the fan should be just a peak load on the engine no ?
michaelovitch Ahy the PCV valve gets clogged up in there and starts coating the throttle body and the sensors in the inlet manifold with sludge causing the incorrect readings and bad running, thats why its a good idea to give it a clean aswell when the inlet manifold is off. Im just thinking that the extra load of the cooling fan might be asking a lot from the alternator which if it isnt working too well might be labouring more than normal but then again if you turn on the cabin fan, full beam headlights wipers, rear window heater and electric windows they should draw extra current and reproduce the same problem.
Hi, is this the sensor at 8:00 on the bottom of the throttle body? I dont know if they can be swapped, does the sellers say anything about them needing coded etc, i would ask that. And check on renault forums just to be sure.
Ive never worked on one of these cars with A/C but is it the air conditioning pump or pipes in the way? In either case you could remove the A/C pump from its bracket and push it aside, as long as the pipes are not opened or split then no refrigerant will escape
Very nice video. I have the same engine on a kangoo. Is there a icu valve on the throttle body? when I stop at traffic lights eletrical fault light in the dashboard turns on and my car engine goes in low revs and sometimes stalls. Any idea what could it be? Thanks a lot for the video.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Hi again. Is it true that ecu needs to be reset after cleaning the throttle body so that the throttle values are set right? Or is there a more easy method to set the car to recognize a cleaned throttle body? Thanks again
Great video, thanks for posting. Was a big help for me when getting to the throttle position sensor on my Kangoo 1.2 16v, which has basically the same engine. Couple of points for the Kangoo: 1. Take off the bonnet! It opens the other way and saves a heck of a time getting those inlet maniford bolts off. 2. The TPS sold by most outlets (a much smaller item) is not always the right one. My Kangoo has the same as in this video for the Clio. Thanks again.
Hello there! I have the same kangoo from 2003 petrol engine. I have the same problem at the moment and the light won't stop coming on again. The mechanic tried with cleaning the throttle body, but after some time the light comes on again and it's the same problem over and over. I want to ask you, how can i solve this problem? Should I change the throttle body? Or maybe the sensor on the throttle body? Should i check the pedal down under? Thanks in advance!
@@VelesKitchen Hello ! Well it's been five years since I did this and I don't have the car anymore to check, but as I remember the throttle body was a pretty simple device. If a clean out hasn't worked it could be sensor failure. Have you or your mechanic fitted an OBD II sensor reader to check the fault codes? It might actually tell you if something has failed. Cleaning the throttle pedal is easy, but it's just a couple of variable resistors that signal the ECU and it is pretty robust. Worth checking but unlikely the cause. If all else fails a new throttle body might be worth a try but after that it could be the ECU itself and I am afraid that's real money. Best of luck !
There most likely will be a bit of old oil in that area but a few old rags is all it takes to dry it up, also while you have the inlet manifold off clean out the PCV valve to prevent the oil from doing that again.
thanks for the positive comment, its good to know its helping. I intend to do more work on the clio, and i also hope to purchase a MOT failure clio really cheap to take apart and understand how it's built more.
I still would get a bit of the tsst noise i think its just the induction noise but it doesnt affect the cars performance, if you run the car with the air filter out the noise will be louder.
Thanks for looking , fingers crossed it solves the problem, on half a tank only did 50 miles. The inlet manifold on top wasn't secured very well. One of the nuts in bedded in the rocker cover was slack letting air in. And on the inlet to the engine one of the bolts was snapped in the head, so had to drill it out and tapped it with a 7 mm bolt seems to have sealed. Haven't had the engine management light on again, so will refill and see what mileage I get ....
A loose intake manifold will definatley cause the issues you are mentioning, especially if someone has broke a bolt reinstalling it some time in the past there is a chance it wasnt done right, a new intake manifold gasket might be a good thing to get if you ever go to take it off again.
Brilliant video, I was worried about doing it before i saw the video, so seeing it done was great. Just 1 minor point I found that unplugging a plug at the rear right hand side of the loom (green cable heading off into bulk head) helped with manipulating the throttle body around, seemed to give me more room without putting pressure on the loom. Thanks for posting.
I didnt get to the crankshaft position sensor in this video i had intended to do a separate video showing its removal and cleaning, sorry about that. But the crankshaft position sensor is below the air filter housing a black box on the bellhousing (where the gearbox and engine meet) it is held in with 2 10mm bolts and one undone it can be removed and cleaned up if it is covered in oil. What sort of trouble is the car having when trying to start?
wow, looks like another extensive dismantle jobs just to get to the throttle body. I have cleaned throttle bodies on other cars without having to remove the inlet manifolds. Wonder why Renault have tucked the body away like this, the same as having to take the whole top dash out just to change the bulbs in the centre clock / temp in the dash. Nothing seems a quick 5 minute dismantle job with this motor. - well done for video though very informative and clear
I would check the connections again, im not near my garage at the moment if i was i could look at the haynes manual to see if any of them plugs has anything to do with the fuel gague, but i remember from experience of taking out a fuel pump in the tank that the gague/pump is one unit and the connectors are under the back seat. What you said about the steep incline could be a reason, if the car is on the level the gague might register some fuel, did it show 2 bars sitting on the incline?
The Crankcase breather or PSV valve is what causes the oil issues. I had actually done this job a week before i filmed it. But when i am taking the throttle body off to the top right of it is a black hole in there is the crankcase breather and it clogs up with old crusty oil and needs to be cleaned out, i used wd40 and a pick to scrape out all the old oil. The place where it sits down needs cleaned, as does all the oil lying around. Eventually if it builds up it will cause the running problems
I had the electrical light coming on, intermitently but it was coming on more frequently when i went to work on the car. And yes revving the car usually got rid of the light. My mum drove the car and she drives it easy thus the problem showed up, then when i went to drive it i drove it flat out and couldnt see what was wrong initially. So i think cleaning out the throttle body is worth a try on your car.
Thanks I changed the starter on the clio a long time ago ill do a video though soon as its not too difficult. But the crankshaft position sensor its just below the air filter on the bell housing, two bolts hold it in place and some wd40 or carb cleaner is all i used to clean it up.
Its a bit confusing looking at if youve never had it off, but that whole part i removed was the inlet manifold not the rocker cover, although the rocker cover does have the hallow area for the throttle body to sit. It might seem complicated but it would be a lot worse on these newer cars coming out.
The bolts are welded onto the seat frames and go through the floor, to get to the nuts you need to get under the car and remove plastic covers, once the nuts are undone the seat will lift out make sure to disconnect any wires before fully removing it.
no worries i see it as helpful advice, which will also help other viewers, i can understand if it is just for a job like this there would be no point purchasing a full set of inverted torx sockets.
The lack of power is caused by the old sludgey oil sitting over the throttle body and various sensors, the only pipe that can get clogged up is the crankcase breather pipe and its a good idea when cleaning the throttle body to also clean this out aswell.
It sounds like a wire somewhere has been loosened; the large plugs up near the bulhead i found quite tricky to plug in. everything needs to be plugged back tight, and a bit of wd40 or contact cleaner on the plugs keeps the connections clean.
£50 isnt too bad for bosch, diesel injectors are much more expensive. I though a voltage check on the wires going in would test if there was power going to them. Are you getting any engine management lights or fault codes from an OBD scanner? Although try renault forums uk for more help, you dont actually need to be from the uk to join up
The inlet manifold/throttle body first, see the video in the renault clio playlist for that, then the valve cover and once its off the head comes off. But you also need to take off the exhaust manifold and whatever sensors are connected to the head, and the timing belt cover, if you plan to do this job get a haynes manual,
I never depressurised it, just pulled the various pipes off, there wasnt much petrol in the tank, i suppose opening up the fuel cap would depressurise the tank. I took the inlet manifold off today again to address an unrelated oil leak, it wasnt a nice day for it, very cold, but the throttle body is still nice and clean.
eventually after time the oil would leak out the air filter housing onto the flywheel sensor (that was the first problem i had on the clio) then the oil on the throttle body caused the rest of the problems. I also flushed out my oil to solve this problem check out the servicing video where before an oil change i put in some parafin into the oil run the car for a few minuites and then changed the oil which should help get rid of any sludgey oil
Today i had a little free time and i clean my throttle body too !! thank you very much !! You are a big teacher for me ! Now i am waiting a video how to change the timing belt :)
did much the same as I was changing top wiring loom due to the clio problems that most know about ,that is except the two garages that worked on the car ,new map sensor , lander sensor,and cat later with the same fault still there. I would just like to add the following at the bottom of the crankcase breather is a small hole that needs to be cleaned out with a paper clip also when replacing bottom inlet 10m bolts use a thin extension bar ,use your finger to act as a guide,
Sorry to hear that. I think these engines are an interference engine which means the pistons will have hit the vavles so its likely that damage has occured. Ive never had a timing belt snap on me so im not sure how bad the damage will be, the head will need to come off to see what the inside of the engine is like.
Just wanted to ask your advice. Im doing tappets on a 2005 1.2 16v clio tappet settings give 2 settings for inlet and 2 settings for exasust. Im not sure whitch one to do. Do i pick a feeler guage in middle of both settings for inlet ?
Are the two settings referring to hot and cold measurements, or is it a tolerance? I never went near the tappet adjustment of my clio so cant really speak from experience.
Glad it helped. I sometimes forget what size the bolts are, i write them down while i do the job but sometimes mistakes can get made when im putting the videos together. Thanks for the information however.
At 4.35 remove this part? Did you find out or does anyone else know what this screwed on part is? I have followed this step by step but I have snapped the screw on this part ,half of it is still in the hole so don't want to start the engine until I know what it is. Thanks brilliant video.
I have clio 1.2 16v 2001. while driving, my engine revs stop at 1900. I turn off the engine with the key, and when I turn the ignition back on, the car continues to stop revs if I don't press the gas. if I give gas, the engine accepts the pedal. and continue to run fine until the next transmission shift. then it blocks the gas again
Please check about the size of the female torx sockets and tell us. Very nice video! I heve done many processes on my clio 1.2 16v on my own as an amateur, both mechanical and electrical. Thank you!
Please help, followed this today, must have done something wrong ... Engine now sounds horrendous, whistles and pops ? Is this likely due to lack of cleaning the block when refitting manifold ? If so how would people recommend cleaning this ? If it's something else ? What is it likely to be ?
The inlet manifold gasket where it sits against the block might not be sealing right and you also need to give the block a good clean, nothing special is needed just a bit of engine degreaser on an old rag.
Question; Should a new inlet manifold gasket be installed before putting it back together at 9:40 when you cleaned the lower part and was there any sort of gasket there in the first place that may have rotted or burnt away? Thanks a lot for a great video
Ideally yes if you can have a nice new one sitting ready to go on that would be the proper way to do it. However they can be slightly difficult to obtain, i have never actually replaced one on a clio yet (then again i can still count the amount of clios i have done this job on with two hands) a spray of silicone spray to hopefully soften the gasket and it went back on. Although bear in mind this video was made back in 2012 when the car was 10 years old, the gasket now on a clio might be 20 years old and more in need of replacement. I never considered it that hard to go back and fit a new gasket if the car still missed or misbehaved after the job was done so took the gamble and reinstalled the old gasket. If its leaking spraying something like WD40 round the gasket area will cause the revs to noticeably change.
could you possibly do a quick tutorial on the throttle position sensor and how to check if its faulty? I have a 1.2 16V clio and the electronic fault light always seems to come on. I have done alot of research and forums suggest its the throttle body and/or throtle position sensor. I refuse to take it to the garage as i have spent in excess of £400 on this daft light
The Lambda sensor seems to be ok on this car, the readings on the diagnostics machine show it to be working fine. Cleaning out the throttle body and PSV valve made a huge difference however.
The block was alot more caked up than the one in the video would you scrap it off with a stanley blade ? If more is required than can be achieved by engine degreaser and a rag - what would you suggest ?
A stanley blade would work ok just take care not to scratch the mating surface which is easier said than done. If the engine degreaser and rag are not working, switch to fine emery paper used on a sanding block.
Excellent work mate! I have a Proton Savvy and it uses a Renault 1.2 D4F engine. Do you have anything on fault code P0303? I know its a misfire but not really sure what to do here? I changed the spark plug but code is still showing? Any suggestions friend?
I have a Renault clio 1.2 16v and i had the same issues i replaced the spark plugs and coil pack and its fine.... But the hisss'ing / air leaking sound your was making when reving is still there?? Could this be due to the throttle body peugeotCitroen2CV
Hello again. Great news. All sorted and car is running sweet as So thank you so much for this fantastic Video. AMAZING DIFFERENCE. P.S. THERE IS A RUBBER RING WHERE THE THROTTLE BODY GOES ON THE HOUSING. I NEVER NOTICED IT AND IT DROPPED IN THE TOP OF THE ENGINE!!! I FOUND IT AFTER TAKING APART THE THROTTLE BODY THE SECOND TIME ROUND. LOL. NO HARM NO FOUL CAR IS RUNNER SUPERB NOW :)
Great to hear it sorted your car. I must have forgot to mention the rubber ring, its fairly important that it makes a good seal was your car running rough with it out?
Lol not only was it running rough the ring had dropped into the head and the engine was making some god awful noises, I thought there was something broken but luckily once the ring was back on it is running better than ever. Ignition light flashed a few times but after stopping and starting the car a few times it went off
Graham Wakerley It didn't drop down round the valves etc did it, iirc with the inlet manifold off the space below it is just space, you then need to remove the valve cover to get at the valves. I would expect it to sound and act very strange, sometimes the rubber ring can get old and cracked and that can also cause running issues.
Good helpful guide Thanks. Im having similar problems- Car runs perfect most of the time but sometimes especially when crawling through traffic I get the electrical fault warning light and the idle goes erratic and on the brink of stalling. About 10 or so seconds it clears itself and returns to normal. I hooked up a fault reader and it stated that manifold pressure is incoherent to another sensor. Would this be a bad sensor or throttle body reqs a good clean ? It seems to be getting worse as the weeks go by. Cheers
I had a similar fault code with this car something about manifold pressure, but i cleaned out the throttle body, which got rid of the lights and fault code, more importantly the car ran better after it.
tried to remove my map sensor by gently putting it up and out but the end bit has snapped inside the rocker cover. do you just pull these sensor up to remove ?
hi - would you know what things I should be looking at for bad idling on renault clio 2 2003 16v between cold and normal temp, to the stage of nearly cutting out but then picking up again in a loop to nearly cutting out but picking up just before it cut out? - it doesnt do this when engine starts up from cold, and then sometimes it will idle ok , albeit a bit lumpy. no yellow engine light on. - I think it does this now after I took the throttle body out the other day and give it a good clean, have I upset something doing that do you reckon? EDIT: - i just read in an online manual that says "when replacing the motorised throttle valve, the minimum throttle stop has to be reprogrammed" - do they mean if your replacing a new throttle body or should I do this after taking out and cleaning the existing body do you reckon? - thanks.
i must see if i can get a cheap code reader one day - they come in right handy. wheres the obd2 socket on the clio, is it by the fusebox on the passenger side front or under the ash tray or in the engine compartment?
I've heard this solves the 'electrical fault' light coming on the dashboard whilst driving, is this true? Because this has happened to me and so giving the throttle body a clean instead of sending it to a garage would be helpful!!
I have never worked on or looked at the 1.4 engine so i cant comment on the exact procedure required to remove it, but as far as i am aware from previous comments the 1.4s throttle body will get mucky like the 1.2 engine and cause similar symptoms, the best bet would be to get a haynes manual and follow the instructions on removal for the 1.4 engine, renault forums is also a good place to discuss this issue.
if i just wants to clean the throttle body do i have to remove the whole thing as u did or can i just spray the carb cleaner through the air filter housing
Hi i changed the crank shaft sensor using your vid and car has started fine so far but i still think the TB ciuld use a clean. How did u actually clean it once it was off??
Jay Breezy Once it was removed i used carburettor cleaner, just spray the throttle body down with it and it gets rid of the dirt and grime very well especially if its a new tin with plenty of pressure.
Sorry about that, ive had a few people mention this tamper proof cover, for some reason any ive worked on have had the tamper proof cover broken making it easy to lift off i didnt know when making the video.
Very nice video! I have the same car and now i know have i can clean my throttle bod , before 2 days i service my clio myself because you teach me how ...thank you! keep working on it!
i got new spark plugs and engine coil fitted for the same problem but it has not resolved the overall problem which is the Electronic Fault Light coming on all the time. However the new spark plugs and coil fixed the up and down reving at the start but the overall problem still remains
at the mo, ive got the electric warning light the same one in the middle at the start, however all mine does when the light comes on has a lack of power. if i put it in neutral and full throttle it will only go up to 4000 RPM, spark plugs were changed, but any guesses what it could be? theres no bad idling, however when starting up it does go up and down a bit
can you buy the black sensor part separately from the throttle body. My garage want to replace the whole lot as they say it all comes together but i have found a couple sites that are selling just the sensor,
Hi. I've got a question for you, cause in my Twingo 1.2 D4F when I push the gas pedal I hear "tsst" - sound of underpressure... this same sound is on your movie (when you push gas pedal). I cleaned my throttle - a lot of oil, and other dirty liquid, and clean oil in air cover.. but this sound is still there... I thought that dirty crankshaft breather pipe is source of this sound but... not. Is the sound still occurs in your engine?
Great video ! So I was wondering if you need and new seals or gaskets when refitting everything thing, also what did you use so clean everything off the oil ? Thanks !!
I have a similar car mine is a billabong I have a problem with the air bag and serv/service light they stay on... And both rear reverse light and tail for the driver side don't work only the brakes works on both sides... Any suggestions with be appreciate cheers
problem is throttle body motor is burned then we put new throttle body on it i was work good for hour then after make same problem again. looks like over voltage goes to throttle body motor and burns it.. what course to burn this motor. do you are think? thanks
Ah right, i see it now, its not a section i would normally go to. Normally i use ask the experts then the engines section, starting a new thread is the best way to get a response i find.
Hi there i have the same car as you Clio 1.2 16v and i have a bit off problems with it, in the mornings when i start it it misfires a little bit when i rev it but goes when its warmed up and also there is any real power to it, i put my foot down and it takes qute some time to pick any help would really appreciate thanks
i have a 2001 clio 1.4 and it has trouble starting, you said in the description it was caused by the oil dripping onto the crankshaft position sensor, which part of the video was about that? im a bit clueless
Hi great video! I have a 1.6 8v clio 1998 with unstable idle speed. Oscillates from 500rpm to 1000rpm. Do you think it's an easy job for a beginner? How many hours does it take to do it? Thanks
Once i sorted it out the car was still driving fine until i sold it in november 2013, but in addition to cleaning the throttle body, the PCV valve got cleaned, its in there when you have the inlet manifold open, and also use some engine oil flush before changing the oil for new oil.
hello, I have a 1.2 16vand when I accelerate I feel that the power has some gaps... it is not straight. Do you think that I can solve the problem with cleaning or replacing the throttle ? Thanks
Thanks for taking time to make this vid, you really do a good job of showing clearly where everything is! I think the best auto diy vid I've seen in that regard! I'll do this for my Clio II 1.2 16v ASAP as its showing the same symptoms!
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![[DE] Watch and Work - Renault Twingo 1.2l 16V](/img/n.gif)
This video was easy to follow considering I know nothing about cars and now my 2001 1.2 Clio is working a treat! No more cutting out at junctions or dodgy idling. Cheers for the video man!
Great stuff, thanks for the comment.
This cured my Clio's 2002 1.2 Expression's issues. I can't thank this video enough for its assistance.
My Clio has slowly been getting worse over the past 6 months and would cut out more regularly when stopping. Every time I pulled up to lights, roundabouts or to park etc... the electrical warning light would appear, revs would drop and the only way to save this would be to rev the engine a couple of times. The issue would be fine until I slowed down again.
I took the car to 3 garages who all ran diagnostic test, changed the mapping and TDC sensors but nothing worked.
Finally I came across this video, carried out the cleaning of the throttle body put it all back together and it worked. The car runs like new and has not cut out since.
Thats fantastic news to hear, thanks for letting me know, its good to hear the car is running well now.
Excellent video. Followed it through and cleaned my own throttle body (replacing a faulty air temperature sensor in the process). One small problem though, the video suggests the top bolts for the inlet manifold require an E6 socket. On my Clio, at least, they were E8 Torx bolts, rather than E6. Thankfully I'd bought both at Halfords just in case. Something to bear in mind before commencing the work!
I've did this a few days ago. ~20 years old. Haven't changed any gaskets, they seemed OK. I've used a paper clip to clean the hole shown at 09:00. If the paper clip has plastic, you have to remove it. The hole is really thin. Instead of carb cleaner I've used acetone. I can confirm E8 torx, for removing the inner parts I think it's a torx 30. On my car I have AC. There weren't any particular problems due to it. I've used various flexible/bendable/stiff adapters of various lengths to get to all of the screws. Prepare to be really creative. I've also had a problem with the capacitor of the ignition coils (shown here at 4:40). It was broken. I've replaced it with a normal 2.2 uF 100 V+ (I've used a 400 V one) capacitor soldered to the metal part and fixed with epoxy putty. Also the connectors of the ECU had signs of corrosion (blue-green crap). I've used KONTAKT 60 spray. Replaced also MAP filter which I've broken by trying to remove it to clean it. It was really hard to remove the wires to the spark plugs. I've used pliers under the widened part and raised the pliers on one side by pushing on the otherside down into the inlet manifold, basically using leverage to raise them. The hardest part was putting back the first fuel pipe (1:40). I've used some WD-40 to help me and a torx key to help me push on one button. I needed around 1 h to dissasemble, but I wasn't really rushing.
OK, after about two weeks it became a bit jittery ocassionaly and fuel consumption has been slowly rising. Torque on Android didn't show any errors, but CarScanner for Android (which probes extra errors) did. Also LTFT (fuel trim) has been +50% (which means, that there should be +50% more fuel, it stops at ~50% as above that the ECU doesn't allow) while idling and wasn't great while driving either. After an another 2 weeks even the error light on the dashboard lit up once. I've added first a an injector cleaner solution in the fuel, which helped a bit subjectively (and also measuring fuel trim), but not that much. I noticed that one HT lead had a detached rubber, possibly due to the previous work. I've made a special tool by buying an aluminium pipe 10x1 mm, I've cut it in 250 mm length and drilled with a 9 mm bit 25 mm deep. Then I've sanded the edges, so that they are sharp. I've attached the tool on the spark plug and gently tapped twice with the hammer and the rubber from the HT lead went from the spark plug on my tool. That way I was able to replace the HT leads (they come with a new ignition coil), that helped a bit, but still not totally. I've decided to reopen everything also because I had an oil leak (from before). I suspected the oil leak comes from the valve cover, which it did (that's under the cover of what it's shown in the video). I've changed the gaskets there too. They were really bad, hard and they even broke like glass. On some parts you have to add silicone: all 5 five screws on the back and on the side "humps". Got this from Haynes' manual. I've also noticed that the ECU has a gasket, which may be relevant to leaking air, which I didn't buy. I've applied thermal silicone instead. The gasket of the cover that it's shown in the video was quite bad. Haven't noticed before, because it seemed like solid plastic. I've changed this gasket (rectangular, with a notch, so that you don't turn it upside down, code 701 479). There's also a gasket on where the plastic tube, that was needed to be cleaned in the video. I think it's called "strainer something something gasket". In the local shop they've said that you can't buy it. That you can only get it if you buy the whole intake manifold. I've applied thermal silicone to it. I've also recheked the 4 triangular gaskets of the intake manifold and well they only seemed OK. Compared to new ones, they were quite hard. Changed those too. I've also removed the injectors and cleaned them in an ultrasonic bath of pure isopropanol for 30 min. I've ordered two types of gaskets for the injectors MCP-003 and MCP-004 because of a drawing. It should have been both MCP-003. I've also found in Haynes' manual specified torques for each tightenings and for the intake manifold there's a specific sequence and procedure, which I've followed. I've also applied Loctite on the screws as per the manual. When I've started the engine it wasn't jittery, but still I had the same LTFT, so I was disappointed and went to sleep. Next day I've tried putting all the spark plugs out. They were all white, indicating a very lean (too much air) mixture. I've changed the spark plugs, it was maybe better (at least subjectively), but not that much change on LTFT also still errors in the ECU. After that I decided to go around a bit and it seemed like it was getting progressively better. Then I stopped for an hour and went again. This time it was all fine. The fuel consumption went down by 1 L/100 km and there was no jitter also there were zero errors in the ECU.
@@sebaseba2001
Wow, gut gemacht. Top!
Bewundernswert, ihre Ausdauer und ihr handling.
Thanks for uploading this. I have just done this job on a mk1 Twingo 16v and it is ticking over much better. I would have struggled (even more!) to do this without your video..... many thanks.
Hi, thanks for the comment and its great to hear that this video helped on a MK1 twingo.
PIĘKNIE DZIĘKUJĘ !!! bez tego poradnika nie dałbym rady - TWINGO 02R-SELESPEED
The fuel gague works gets the signal from the float inside the tank, this car had the analogue gague but its still controlled in the same way as the digital.
It sounds like there is still a loose wire somewhere, were any broken when removing connectors? and is the bolt shown at 4:34 back on correctly?
How much fuel is in the tank because this clio if say £10 is put in when the fuel light is on its not enough to get it off.
Hi ,
Great video, gave me the confidence to tackle the Renault Twingo we have just bought. A lot less room than the Clio but still possible with your help, took the Cam cover off to cure the oil leak and check the valve clearances while I was there, also done the cam belt and fitted a new clutch. I am nearly 60 but still learnt from your video, many thanks, Mark
Thanks for the comment, and its great to hear it helped. Congratulations on the clutch change, it was one of them jobs that my clio would have benefited from but i never got round to doing.
Great video, thanks. My daughter has the Automatic version, cleaning the throttle body cured the following symptoms: Wouldn't change auto gears properly, Engine cut out at junctions, Stuck in second gear regardless of speed, sudden and dramatic loss of power, etc. Thank you again.
A fault code reader is whats needed, the dealers are expensive, so a mechanic might have a decent reader, i am yet to buy one myself and just get the lend of one a friend owns if i need it. But if you had a precise fault code then it would be easier to pinpoint the problem.
Have you cleaned out the throttle body yet?
The timing belt, and auxilary belt are on the side of the headlight they could be making the noise, does it change with revs?
It could be a number of things causing the problem, the first time i attached everything together the car was a bit lumpy when first stared but after a bit of revving it picked up.
What condition is the wires around the engine is the HT leads and plug going into the coil good, sometimes problems with them can make the car run rough.
It sounds like the car is in limp mode, its hard to say exactly what is causing it without reading the fault codes. However it could be the coil for the spark plugs,
But i would get it connected to an fault code reader to see what it says before buying new parts.
What condition is the air filter in? Is there much oil on it at the moment?
You have used the plastic bag trick to keep bolts on the socket : )
I have a co worker with the same engine/car wich cut at intersections or when the cooling fan kick in.
it has 180 000 kms.
i will tell him about that.
Thank you for video.
Vey interesting.
I guess the idle air control valve is built in the throttle body ?
Is an Eobd scan tool ok for those cars ?
I would like to buy one with this engine :
Have you got advices or warning to give to me ?
michaelovitch A piece of paper or tissue is normally what i use for holding the bolt in place, but a plastic bag does the same trick.
The cutting out at junctions issue should solve after a throttle body clean, but after the cooling fan kicks in is a bit strange i wonder if the alternator is working correctly
peugeotCitroen2CV
I think the idle air control can't correctly adjust the idle when the load caused by the cooling fan appears.
It must be all dirty i think,and it causes the engine to stall.
Why would be the alternator causing problem according to you ?
i don't get it.
The amps sucked by the fan should be just a peak load on the engine no ?
michaelovitch Ahy the PCV valve gets clogged up in there and starts coating the throttle body and the sensors in the inlet manifold with sludge causing the incorrect readings and bad running, thats why its a good idea to give it a clean aswell when the inlet manifold is off.
Im just thinking that the extra load of the cooling fan might be asking a lot from the alternator which if it isnt working too well might be labouring more than normal but then again if you turn on the cabin fan, full beam headlights wipers, rear window heater and electric windows they should draw extra current and reproduce the same problem.
Did mine today, followed your video step by step, apart from the plastic retaining clips that hold the wires, they weren't even there lol
Hi, is this the sensor at 8:00 on the bottom of the throttle body?
I dont know if they can be swapped, does the sellers say anything about them needing coded etc, i would ask that. And check on renault forums just to be sure.
Ive never worked on one of these cars with A/C but is it the air conditioning pump or pipes in the way?
In either case you could remove the A/C pump from its bracket and push it aside, as long as the pipes are not opened or split then no refrigerant will escape
Very nice video. I have the same engine on a kangoo. Is there a icu valve on the throttle body? when I stop at traffic lights eletrical fault light in the dashboard turns on and my car engine goes in low revs and sometimes stalls. Any idea what could it be? Thanks a lot for the video.
Yes i think the idle control valve is in the throttle body, its best to clean it with the carb cleaner when it is exposed.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV thanks. Is petrol or diesel ok to clean out the throttle body?
@@MacUlisse
For the sake of £10 or less a can of carb cleaner is the correct stuff to use.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV thanks. I’ll do that then.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Hi again. Is it true that ecu needs to be reset after cleaning the throttle body so that the throttle values are set right? Or is there a more easy method to set the car to recognize a cleaned throttle body? Thanks again
Great video, thanks for posting. Was a big help for me when getting to the throttle position sensor on my Kangoo 1.2 16v, which has basically the same engine.
Couple of points for the Kangoo:
1. Take off the bonnet! It opens the other way and saves a heck of a time getting those inlet maniford bolts off.
2. The TPS sold by most outlets (a much smaller item) is not always the right one. My Kangoo has the same as in this video for the Clio.
Thanks again.
Hello there! I have the same kangoo from 2003 petrol engine. I have the same problem at the moment and the light won't stop coming on again. The mechanic tried with cleaning the throttle body, but after some time the light comes on again and it's the same problem over and over. I want to ask you, how can i solve this problem? Should I change the throttle body? Or maybe the sensor on the throttle body? Should i check the pedal down under? Thanks in advance!
@@VelesKitchen Hello ! Well it's been five years since I did this and I don't have the car anymore to check, but as I remember the throttle body was a pretty simple device. If a clean out hasn't worked it could be sensor failure. Have you or your mechanic fitted an OBD II sensor reader to check the fault codes? It might actually tell you if something has failed. Cleaning the throttle pedal is easy, but it's just a couple of variable resistors that signal the ECU and it is pretty robust. Worth checking but unlikely the cause. If all else fails a new throttle body might be worth a try but after that it could be the ECU itself and I am afraid that's real money. Best of luck !
There most likely will be a bit of old oil in that area but a few old rags is all it takes to dry it up, also while you have the inlet manifold off clean out the PCV valve to prevent the oil from doing that again.
thanks for the positive comment, its good to know its helping.
I intend to do more work on the clio, and i also hope to purchase a MOT failure clio really cheap to take apart and understand how it's built more.
I still would get a bit of the tsst noise i think its just the induction noise but it doesnt affect the cars performance, if you run the car with the air filter out the noise will be louder.
Thanks for looking , fingers crossed it solves the problem, on half a tank only did 50 miles.
The inlet manifold on top wasn't secured very well. One of the nuts in bedded in the rocker cover was slack letting air in. And on the inlet to the engine one of the bolts was snapped in the head, so had to drill it out and tapped it with a 7 mm bolt seems to have sealed.
Haven't had the engine management light on again, so will refill and see what mileage I get ....
A loose intake manifold will definatley cause the issues you are mentioning, especially if someone has broke a bolt reinstalling it some time in the past there is a chance it wasnt done right, a new intake manifold gasket might be a good thing to get if you ever go to take it off again.
Brilliant video, I was worried about doing it before i saw the video, so seeing it done was great. Just 1 minor point I found that unplugging a plug at the rear right hand side of the loom (green cable heading off into bulk head) helped with manipulating the throttle body around, seemed to give me more room without putting pressure on the loom. Thanks for posting.
I didnt get to the crankshaft position sensor in this video i had intended to do a separate video showing its removal and cleaning, sorry about that.
But the crankshaft position sensor is below the air filter housing a black box on the bellhousing (where the gearbox and engine meet) it is held in with 2 10mm bolts and one undone it can be removed and cleaned up if it is covered in oil.
What sort of trouble is the car having when trying to start?
wow, looks like another extensive dismantle jobs just to get to the throttle body. I have cleaned throttle bodies on other cars without having to remove the inlet manifolds. Wonder why Renault have tucked the body away like this, the same as having to take the whole top dash out just to change the bulbs in the centre clock / temp in the dash. Nothing seems a quick 5 minute dismantle job with this motor. - well done for video though very informative and clear
I would check the connections again, im not near my garage at the moment if i was i could look at the haynes manual to see if any of them plugs has anything to do with the fuel gague, but i remember from experience of taking out a fuel pump in the tank that the gague/pump is one unit and the connectors are under the back seat.
What you said about the steep incline could be a reason, if the car is on the level the gague might register some fuel, did it show 2 bars sitting on the incline?
The Crankcase breather or PSV valve is what causes the oil issues. I had actually done this job a week before i filmed it. But when i am taking the throttle body off to the top right of it is a black hole in there is the crankcase breather and it clogs up with old crusty oil and needs to be cleaned out, i used wd40 and a pick to scrape out all the old oil. The place where it sits down needs cleaned, as does all the oil lying around. Eventually if it builds up it will cause the running problems
I had the electrical light coming on, intermitently but it was coming on more frequently when i went to work on the car. And yes revving the car usually got rid of the light. My mum drove the car and she drives it easy thus the problem showed up, then when i went to drive it i drove it flat out and couldnt see what was wrong initially. So i think cleaning out the throttle body is worth a try on your car.
Thanks
I changed the starter on the clio a long time ago ill do a video though soon as its not too difficult.
But the crankshaft position sensor its just below the air filter on the bell housing, two bolts hold it in place and some wd40 or carb cleaner is all i used to clean it up.
Its a bit confusing looking at if youve never had it off, but that whole part i removed was the inlet manifold not the rocker cover, although the rocker cover does have the hallow area for the throttle body to sit. It might seem complicated but it would be a lot worse on these newer cars coming out.
The bolts are welded onto the seat frames and go through the floor, to get to the nuts you need to get under the car and remove plastic covers, once the nuts are undone the seat will lift out make sure to disconnect any wires before fully removing it.
no worries i see it as helpful advice, which will also help other viewers, i can understand if it is just for a job like this there would be no point purchasing a full set of inverted torx sockets.
The lack of power is caused by the old sludgey oil sitting over the throttle body and various sensors, the only pipe that can get clogged up is the crankcase breather pipe and its a good idea when cleaning the throttle body to also clean this out aswell.
It sounds like a wire somewhere has been loosened; the large plugs up near the bulhead i found quite tricky to plug in. everything needs to be plugged back tight, and a bit of wd40 or contact cleaner on the plugs keeps the connections clean.
Congratulations my friend.
Ηelps people .
Comprehensive instructions for repair.
Thanks from GREECE
Thanks for the comment
£50 isnt too bad for bosch, diesel injectors are much more expensive. I though a voltage check on the wires going in would test if there was power going to them.
Are you getting any engine management lights or fault codes from an OBD scanner?
Although try renault forums uk for more help, you dont actually need to be from the uk to join up
The inlet manifold/throttle body first, see the video in the renault clio playlist for that, then the valve cover and once its off the head comes off.
But you also need to take off the exhaust manifold and whatever sensors are connected to the head, and the timing belt cover, if you plan to do this job get a haynes manual,
I never depressurised it, just pulled the various pipes off, there wasnt much petrol in the tank, i suppose opening up the fuel cap would depressurise the tank.
I took the inlet manifold off today again to address an unrelated oil leak, it wasnt a nice day for it, very cold, but the throttle body is still nice and clean.
Hi there. The wires that goes with the plug you pulled out on the ignition coil.. I have one broken off, don't know where it must go..
eventually after time the oil would leak out the air filter housing onto the flywheel sensor (that was the first problem i had on the clio) then the oil on the throttle body caused the rest of the problems.
I also flushed out my oil to solve this problem check out the servicing video where before an oil change i put in some parafin into the oil run the car for a few minuites and then changed the oil which should help get rid of any sludgey oil
Today i had a little free time and i clean my throttle body too !! thank you very much !! You are a big teacher for me ! Now i am waiting a video how to change the timing belt :)
did much the same as I was changing top wiring loom due to the clio problems that most know about ,that is except the two garages that worked on the car ,new map sensor , lander sensor,and cat later with the same fault still there.
I would just like to add the following at the bottom of the crankcase breather is a small hole that needs to be cleaned out with a paper clip
also when replacing bottom inlet 10m bolts use a thin extension bar ,use your finger to act as a guide,
Sorry to hear that. I think these engines are an interference engine which means the pistons will have hit the vavles so its likely that damage has occured. Ive never had a timing belt snap on me so im not sure how bad the damage will be, the head will need to come off to see what the inside of the engine is like.
Just wanted to ask your advice. Im doing tappets on a 2005 1.2 16v clio tappet settings give 2 settings for inlet and 2 settings for exasust. Im not sure whitch one to do. Do i pick a feeler guage in middle of both settings for inlet ?
Are the two settings referring to hot and cold measurements, or is it a tolerance?
I never went near the tappet adjustment of my clio so cant really speak from experience.
Cheers Peugeot, will invest in one and checked to see if its worth repairing. Thanks again.
Glad it helped.
I sometimes forget what size the bolts are, i write them down while i do the job but sometimes mistakes can get made when im putting the videos together. Thanks for the information however.
Help i am having same problem I have uploaded a video on my channel I have changed plugs coil pack filters sounds so much like this one
Thank you for the video, I plan to do the same to my twingo 1.2 16v.
Its around the bellhousing (where the engine meets the gearbox) below the air filter housing, and is held in place with 2 bolts
They always seem to be loose on any clios ive seen, the wires below dont actually get cut or chaffed by it so i have never really worried.
Thank you very much ,I just need this video at the side of the car so I can follow it .
Much appreciate you taking the time to re-do this procedure .
At 4.35 remove this part?
Did you find out or does anyone else know what this screwed on part is?
I have followed this step by step but I have snapped the screw on this part ,half of it is still in the hole so don't want to start the engine until I know what it is.
Thanks brilliant video.
I have clio 1.2 16v 2001.
while driving, my engine revs stop at 1900. I turn off the engine with the key, and when I turn the ignition back on, the car continues to stop revs if I don't press the gas. if I give gas, the engine accepts the pedal. and continue to run fine until the next transmission shift. then it blocks the gas again
Please check about the size of the female torx sockets and tell us. Very nice video! I heve done many processes on my clio 1.2 16v on my own as an amateur, both mechanical and electrical. Thank you!
no problem good luck with the repair, and if you get the chance reply to say if it improves the cars running.
fixed my idling problem striaght away cheers for putting this up mate!
Great to hear you got it sorted, thanks for the comment
Thanks! The problem was high revs idle. I was able to tighten up 5 of 8 bolts on intake collector and engine idling normally now.
Please help, followed this today, must have done something wrong ... Engine now sounds horrendous, whistles and pops ? Is this likely due to lack of cleaning the block when refitting manifold ? If so how would people recommend cleaning this ? If it's something else ? What is it likely to be ?
The inlet manifold gasket where it sits against the block might not be sealing right and you also need to give the block a good clean, nothing special is needed just a bit of engine degreaser on an old rag.
Question; Should a new inlet manifold gasket be installed before putting it back together at 9:40 when you cleaned the lower part and was there any sort of gasket there in the first place that may have rotted or burnt away? Thanks a lot for a great video
Ideally yes if you can have a nice new one sitting ready to go on that would be the proper way to do it.
However they can be slightly difficult to obtain, i have never actually replaced one on a clio yet (then again i can still count the amount of clios i have done this job on with two hands) a spray of silicone spray to hopefully soften the gasket and it went back on. Although bear in mind this video was made back in 2012 when the car was 10 years old, the gasket now on a clio might be 20 years old and more in need of replacement.
I never considered it that hard to go back and fit a new gasket if the car still missed or misbehaved after the job was done so took the gamble and reinstalled the old gasket. If its leaking spraying something like WD40 round the gasket area will cause the revs to noticeably change.
could you possibly do a quick tutorial on the throttle position sensor and how to check if its faulty? I have a 1.2 16V clio and the electronic fault light always seems to come on. I have done alot of research and forums suggest its the throttle body and/or throtle position sensor. I refuse to take it to the garage as i have spent in excess of £400 on this daft light
What a great video. Really easy to follow. Thank you.
Thanks for the quick response, what needs to come off to get to the cylinder head? Thanks
The Lambda sensor seems to be ok on this car, the readings on the diagnostics machine show it to be working fine.
Cleaning out the throttle body and PSV valve made a huge difference however.
The block was alot more caked up than the one in the video would you scrap it off with a stanley blade ? If more is required than can be achieved by engine degreaser and a rag - what would you suggest ?
A stanley blade would work ok just take care not to scratch the mating surface which is easier said than done. If the engine degreaser and rag are not working, switch to fine emery paper used on a sanding block.
peugeotCitroen2CV ... and what if I've managed to scratch it ?
Excellent work mate! I have a Proton Savvy and it uses a Renault 1.2 D4F
engine. Do you have anything on fault code P0303? I know its a misfire
but not really sure what to do here? I changed the spark plug but code
is still showing?
Any suggestions friend?
I have a Renault clio 1.2 16v and i had the same issues i replaced the spark plugs and coil pack and its fine.... But the hisss'ing / air leaking sound your was making when reving is still there?? Could this be due to the throttle body peugeotCitroen2CV
Then I done everything you done and now runs perfect.
Hello again. Great news. All sorted and car is running sweet as So thank you so much for this fantastic Video. AMAZING DIFFERENCE.
P.S. THERE IS A RUBBER RING WHERE THE THROTTLE BODY GOES ON THE HOUSING. I NEVER NOTICED IT AND IT DROPPED IN THE TOP OF THE ENGINE!!! I FOUND IT AFTER TAKING APART THE THROTTLE BODY THE SECOND TIME ROUND. LOL. NO HARM NO FOUL CAR IS RUNNER SUPERB NOW :)
Great to hear it sorted your car.
I must have forgot to mention the rubber ring, its fairly important that it makes a good seal was your car running rough with it out?
Lol not only was it running rough the ring had dropped into the head and the engine was making some god awful noises, I thought there was something broken but luckily once the ring was back on it is running better than ever. Ignition light flashed a few times but after stopping and starting the car a few times it went off
Graham Wakerley It didn't drop down round the valves etc did it, iirc with the inlet manifold off the space below it is just space, you then need to remove the valve cover to get at the valves.
I would expect it to sound and act very strange, sometimes the rubber ring can get old and cracked and that can also cause running issues.
Good helpful guide Thanks.
Im having similar problems- Car runs perfect most of the time but sometimes especially when crawling through traffic I get the electrical fault warning light and the idle goes erratic and on the brink of stalling. About 10 or so seconds it clears itself and returns to normal. I hooked up a fault reader and it stated that manifold pressure is incoherent to another sensor. Would this be a bad sensor or throttle body reqs a good clean ? It seems to be getting worse as the weeks go by.
Cheers
I had a similar fault code with this car something about manifold pressure, but i cleaned out the throttle body, which got rid of the lights and fault code, more importantly the car ran better after it.
peugeotCitroen2CV Great Ill try cleaning it out before anything else.
Thanks for your help and advice.. Ill let you know of the outcome
Cheers
tried to remove my map sensor by gently putting it up and out but the end bit has snapped inside the rocker cover. do you just pull these sensor up to remove ?
hi - would you know what things I should be looking at for bad idling on renault clio 2 2003 16v between cold and normal temp, to the stage of nearly cutting out but then picking up again in a loop to nearly cutting out but picking up just before it cut out? - it doesnt do this when engine starts up from cold, and then sometimes it will idle ok , albeit a bit lumpy. no yellow engine light on. - I think it does this now after I took the throttle body out the other day and give it a good clean, have I upset something doing that do you reckon?
EDIT: - i just read in an online manual that says "when replacing the motorised throttle valve, the minimum throttle stop has to be reprogrammed" - do they mean if your replacing a new throttle body or should I do this after taking out and cleaning the existing body do you reckon? - thanks.
Perhaps plug it into a fault code reader even if there is no light on just in case there may be some underlying issue.
i must see if i can get a cheap code reader one day - they come in right handy. wheres the obd2 socket on the clio, is it by the fusebox on the passenger side front or under the ash tray or in the engine compartment?
An ELM327 wifi works fairly well with the clio, the OBD port on this era of clio is under the ash tray.
ah right, thanks
I've heard this solves the 'electrical fault' light coming on the dashboard whilst driving, is this true? Because this has happened to me and so giving the throttle body a clean instead of sending it to a garage would be helpful!!
Yes the light on the dash which looks like a glow plug and oscilloscope comes on with this problem and cleaning the throttle body should solve it.
peugeotCitroen2CV Thank you!
Great video,I need to clean the throttle body on my daughters 2004 1.4 16 valve dynamique.Is the throttle body the same as the 1.2?
I have never worked on or looked at the 1.4 engine so i cant comment on the exact procedure required to remove it, but as far as i am aware from previous comments the 1.4s throttle body will get mucky like the 1.2 engine and cause similar symptoms, the best bet would be to get a haynes manual and follow the instructions on removal for the 1.4 engine, renault forums is also a good place to discuss this issue.
peugeotCitroen2CV Thanks for coming back,I'll get a manual and read it up.Thanks again
if i just wants to clean the throttle body do i have to remove the whole thing as u did or can i just spray the carb cleaner through the air filter housing
how do you get the seats out in these, are there bolts under the car ? cant seem to get them out from inside and havent looked underneath yet
Hi i changed the crank shaft sensor using your vid and car has started fine so far but i still think the TB ciuld use a clean. How did u actually clean it once it was off??
Jay Breezy Once it was removed i used carburettor cleaner, just spray the throttle body down with it and it gets rid of the dirt and grime very well especially if its a new tin with plenty of pressure.
Sorry about that, ive had a few people mention this tamper proof cover, for some reason any ive worked on have had the tamper proof cover broken making it easy to lift off i didnt know when making the video.
Very nice video! I have the same car and now i know have i can clean my throttle bod , before 2 days i service my clio myself because you teach me how ...thank you! keep working on it!
i got new spark plugs and engine coil fitted for the same problem but it has not resolved the overall problem which is the Electronic Fault Light coming on all the time. However the new spark plugs and coil fixed the up and down reving at the start but the overall problem still remains
let me know if it works or not it would be a good thing to know
at the mo, ive got the electric warning light the same one in the middle at the start, however all mine does when the light comes on has a lack of power. if i put it in neutral and full throttle it will only go up to 4000 RPM, spark plugs were changed, but any guesses what it could be?
theres no bad idling, however when starting up it does go up and down a bit
can you buy the black sensor part separately from the throttle body. My garage want to replace the whole lot as they say it all comes together but i have found a couple sites that are selling just the sensor,
hi there - is the icv valve inside with the throttle body or is it somewhere else? - great video, i really enjoyed it and it helped me
Ive got the same problem at the moment on the clio the rocker cover gasket is leaking
Nice video.. Did you need to calibrate the throttle body afterwards? If so how did you do it?
I turned the key and drove as normal, no calibration process was required.
Hi.
I've got a question for you, cause in my Twingo 1.2 D4F when I push the gas pedal I hear "tsst" - sound of underpressure... this same sound is on your movie (when you push gas pedal).
I cleaned my throttle - a lot of oil, and other dirty liquid, and clean oil in air cover.. but this sound is still there...
I thought that dirty crankshaft breather pipe is source of this sound but... not.
Is the sound still occurs in your engine?
Glad it helped you, how is the car running now?
car is 1.2 16v 2001 petrol-throttle body video great job as i was able to do my self but wanted top replace petrol filter as well
Great video ! So I was wondering if you need and new seals or gaskets when refitting everything thing, also what did you use so clean everything off the oil ? Thanks !!
Cant find were the speed sensor is. Does this use abs or has speed sensor in hearbox? If you know at all
I have a similar car mine is a billabong I have a problem with the air bag and serv/service light they stay on... And both rear reverse light and tail for the driver side don't work only the brakes works on both sides... Any suggestions with be appreciate cheers
problem is throttle body motor is burned then we put new throttle body on it i was work good for hour then after make same problem again.
looks like over voltage goes to throttle body motor and burns it..
what course to burn this motor.
do you are think?
thanks
Ah right, i see it now, its not a section i would normally go to.
Normally i use ask the experts then the engines section, starting a new thread is the best way to get a response i find.
Spark plugs or coil pack sounds like the culprit.
But also clean out the throttle body, that should help it a good bit aswell.
I had hesitant power delevery and the throttle body cleaning solved it.
Hi there i have the same car as you Clio 1.2 16v and i have a bit off problems with it, in the mornings when i start it it misfires a little bit when i rev it but goes when its warmed up and also there is any real power to it, i put my foot down and it takes qute some time to pick any help would really appreciate
thanks
i have a 2001 clio 1.4 and it has trouble starting, you said in the description it was caused by the oil dripping onto the crankshaft position sensor, which part of the video was about that? im a bit clueless
Hi great video! I have a 1.6 8v clio 1998 with unstable idle speed. Oscillates from 500rpm to 1000rpm.
Do you think it's an easy job for a beginner? How many hours does it take to do it? Thanks
Was this a permanent fix for the issue? my clio has been cutting out at junctions etc with electric warning light for weeks now and been getting worse
Once i sorted it out the car was still driving fine until i sold it in november 2013, but in addition to cleaning the throttle body, the PCV valve got cleaned, its in there when you have the inlet manifold open, and also use some engine oil flush before changing the oil for new oil.
peugeotCitroen2CV Ah thanks! I'll get round to over the next few days, hopefully it'll fix my issue as well.
hello, I have a 1.2 16vand when I accelerate I feel that the power has some gaps... it is not straight. Do you think that I can solve the problem with cleaning or replacing the throttle ?
Thanks
Thanks for taking time to make this vid, you really do a good job of showing clearly where everything is! I think the best auto diy vid I've seen in that regard! I'll do this for my Clio II 1.2 16v ASAP as its showing the same symptoms!