How to replace a vapor canister vent valve solenoid on a Chevy Colorado, P0449 error
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 พ.ค. 2018
- Troubleshooting P0449 error on 2007 Chevy Colorado, 5.26.2018
Video documenting the troubleshooting and repair process of a vapor canister vent valve solenoid on a 2007 Chevy Colorado to resolve P0449 check engine code. Video should be applicable to any 1st generation 2004-2012 Chevrolet Colorado, GMC Canyon, or Hummer H3.
To search for this part online look for ACDelco part # 10386359 or 20907779 - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
If you liked this video or found it helpful, please "like" and "subscribe" to my channel. It really helps me out a lot. I have dozens of videos on troubleshooting and repairs of 1st generation Chevy Colorado and regularly add more. Check out the entire playlist here:
th-cam.com/play/PLZsiP8a81zDFWVAWL_RxIkDSn2TSAcU8y.html
My current truck has 237,000 miles and is still running great. Hope to keep it that way a lot longer. Thanks!
I have a 2012 Chevy Colorado. My error was P0446 Evap Emission System Vent Control Circuit. Another symptom that went among with this was that the gas tank was hard to fill. Only accepted a little at a time. Took about 10 min of slow filling from 1/4 tank to 3/4 tank. Although I spent more that I wanted, I replaced both the vent valve solenoid and the charcoal canister for about $260. Cannister was about $182 and vent valve solenoid about $65 including the hose (both from Amazon). I replaced both today, cleared the code and drove it around for two separate drive cycles and at least three ignition cycles and the code stayed off and I was able to fill the gas tank like normal.
Hard to fill gas tank is a plugged vent system. There are three hoses (1 to tank and 1 to the vent valve and 1 to the engine purge valve). The one going to the engine purge valve wouldn't cause hard to fill since this valve is normally closed anyway. This leaves the following possible paths. A. The hose from the canister to the vent valve could be plugged or vent valve solenoid stuck closed or B. the charcoal canister is plugged or C. the line from the tank from the charcoal canister is plugged.
Removed the line going to the fuel tank from the charcoal canister and there is another connector near the gas tank. I removed this line and blew it out. Didn't seem plugged.
I had no idea how to check the charcoal canister, this is why I changed it just in case. I did stick a screw driver in the vent valve line of the old canister and there appeared to be some resistance but with just a small amount of force pushed a little further through Didn't know if this was normal or not.
After replacement of the vent valve, I opened up the old vent valve (very easy to do) and there is a filter inside the lid and a pathway in the center tube of the vent valve to the solenoid. The lid and the vent valve housing had all sort of crud in it. I ran hot water through it to clean out the housing. I also noticed that by running the water through it, it cleaned it out and water was coming out the end of the hose. I did check the resistance of the vent valve solenoid and it appears to be normal at 20 ohms. I'll keep the old vent valve solenoid just in case. Didn't need the adapter harness since the 2012 has the square connector. Time will tell if the code remains off.
Sorry for the long winded description.....one point that could same you some money is remove your vent valve, measure resistance of the solenoid coil and if it is not open circuit and appears to be around 20 ohms or so, then open up the vent valve and clean out the filter and housing. Then put if back in place and clear the code. If it stays off then maybe the vent valve was just dirty enough to cause the code.
Oh and squeeze on each side of the vapor lines to the charcoal canister (black connectors with white tabs). I made it harder on myself by only pushing on one side. I could remove it by pushing on one side, but I suspect it was way harder than if I had squeezed on both sides.
Good luck to all.
Thanks for the detailed and thorough comment! Hopefully this will help others in the future. 👍👍
Went the shop and they said it would be over 300 to change before getting the part. Bought it for 95 and changing tomorrow. Thank you!
You're welcome! Glad to help. 😊
10:15 I was able to change out mine using your video for help thank you. I did not have to remove the two hoses (10:15). I was able to replace the faulty solenoid unit by just unhooking the tabs & sliding the box (vapor canister) to the side. *I did give one of the hoses a tug while pushing the white tab. But it didn't come off. I then realized I didn't have to remove them to get the job done! liked & sub'd
Awesome! You're right, the entire thing doesn't always need to be removed. Glad you got it. 👍👍
Thank for the video! Very clear and understanding all the way through. I’ll be changing mine out tomorrow morning. 👏🏻
Nice! Hope it goes well for you! 😀👍👍
Update: THIS FIXED MY PROBLEM! Great video! Thanks again!
Great to hear! 😀👍👍
Mike Smith truck runs great. It bogs down as if it’s almost gonna stall when i push clutch in but ima change plugs tomorrow and hopefully she runs new again!! No engine code on dash or in computer!
Thanks same prob on my 2008 colorado. Same thing Fixed it
Just had my check engine light turn off on a 2004 Colorado 67000 miles after changing out the vent valve. The valve coil reads 24 ohms. I opened the canister, and the filter packing was disintegrating to a gummy mess....after only 18 years? Tips:1. Drive the passenger rear wheel forward onto a 2x6 board but stop as soon as it is on. Set the parking brake. 2.Lower the spare, but leave it on the cable. Slide it to the passenger side. 3. Could not get to the locking tab on the valve without removing canister. Tubing disconnection was easy but I have good strength in my hands. 4. Release the parking brake and secure the spare....
Thanks for the comment, those are good tips!
Genial video, saludos desde Los Reyes Michoacán Mexico
Thanks!
I’m about to do this. Thanks for the video! I dunno if it’ll work for me yet!
Good luck! Write back and let us know how it goes. Thanks!
Great Video !
Thanks!
Thanks Mike!!
You're welcome! 😊
Awesome video have similar truck
Thanks! How many miles do you have on yours?
Well I'm from Canada so I 240,000 km which is approximately 150,000 miles but it need some TLC. I'm having intermitted p0445 codes and gas smell /leak. Still trying to diagnose
Hey Mike, thanks for the video btw. I just changed this part on my Colorado thanks to you, but when connecting the wiring harness, I realized the wire that I need to plug into this part was broken. Do you know where I could get a replacement for the wiring ? I cant find anything. Thanks again for the help.
Hi! Thanks for the comment. It's been a few years since I made this video, but from what I recall those wires back there can be damaged pretty easily. It looks like quite a few places now sell the wiring in the kit with the valve. Maybe this link will be what you need?
www.amazon.com/Canister-Compatible-2004-2012-2006-2010-2006-2008/dp/B08KXRD2YJ
Also, here's a couple links to information about the wiring harness. Might be helpful:
www.355nation.net/threads/need-help-with-evap-wiring.19357/
www.coloradofans.com/threads/p0449.131175/
Short of replacing the entire wire, maybe it's something you can repair with a bit of solder and some heat shrink tubing? Good luck!
Question, the code came on for what reason? I was having my truck basically shut off when I'd accelerate it or try to gun it to pass people and then this code would come on. I just did this repair yesterday, but haven't taken it out, but I fire it up and no code. But the weird thing about the code is it wouldn't stay on it came on off and on only when I'd do that acceleration. Hopefully that makes sense.
Hi! The vapor canister vent valve is part of the evap system (meant to trap raw fuel and vapor and cycle it back into the combustion process). Normally a malfunction in this system shouldn't have an adverse reaction to vehicle performance, but I could see if it was badly clogged or malfunctioning, it might have some effect (since it's tied into your fuel system). Best thing you can do now that you've replaced the part is take it for a test drive. Lack of power when accelerating could also be attributed to anything from a weak fuel pump, clogged injectors, to a clogged catalytic converter, or a thousand other things.
I'd test first to confirm you've resolved your issue with the P0449, then check for any remaining codes. Good luck!
Thanks for posting, owning a 05 coly myself I’m always watching for repair vids of this model, have u ever had to replace ur thermostat ? Gettting ready to do mine as it has always ran cool, at 165-170, and gauge only sits around 1/4 mark. Have watched ur other vids on brakes, getting ready to do the rears also, thanks for all ur posts
Thanks! I did the thermostat a few years ago, was late at night and dark and didn't think to record a video though. I recall when I did it the easiest way was to jack up the front driver's side and take off the wheel, and come in to it through the wheel well opening. Mine had the same problem when it went bad, btw - stuck open causing the vehicle to run too cold and set a check engine light. Good luck!
thank you
You're welcome! 😊
I replaced this part still have the same code! I'm currently tracing my negative from the pcm to the canister Solenoid hopefully it's a faulty ground otherwise it's my pcm
Did you clear your codes since replacing the part? How quickly does it come back? Do you think if it's a faulty ground you could try splicing in an extra ground somewhere along the frame?
@@CompTechMike that's exactly what it was Mike! A bad ground wire! I had 12v on the orange wire using the frame of the truck as ground and a meere .6 volts from the computer ground. I spliced in the wire loom mid section of the truck and boom +12 volts to the Solenoid! Thank you again for your videos and response ☺
Also the computer switches the Solenoid using the ground wire the positive orange wire is continuous. So anyone else that replaces the evap Solenoid and nothing happens check for 12+ volts from the orange wire to frame ground if you've got 12+ volts there check the voltage in the connector white and orange wire you should have 12+ volts there if not look in the wire loom running across the frame on the driver's side there will be 2 white wires in that loom. A fat white wire and a skinny white wire. The skinny white wire is the ground for the Solenoid. Tap into that wire to run a new ground to the Solenoid.
I change same part reset but after 30 minutes like came back on? Also I change the top one as well, what it could be ? Any thoughts?
Hi! Thanks for checking out my Chevy Colorado repair videos. Just to confirm, what is the exact error code you're getting when you hook up your code scanner?
Just a tip - if you are replacing the vapor canister vent valve and find that the electrical connector doesn't fit, or doesn't match between the wiring harness on your truck and the replacement part, recommend checking out this link for photos & info:
www.355nation.net/threads/vapor-canister-vent-solenoid-replacement.213706
Where did you get those yellow axle stops..cant find them any where
The bump stops? This was a few years ago, if I recall correctly I had to get them special order from the dealership. Just did a google search for "chevy colorado rear bump stops" and a bunch of them came up. It looks like you can order them online now for around $20 each. Good luck!
@@CompTechMike thanks I found them gmpartsone.com ..
Me Too..Thank You For The Video..
Hope I Get Better Gas Mileage
@@frankmeister1743 You're welcome! ☺👍👍
@@frankmeister1743 What sort of mileage are you getting now?
My Light And Code Is The Same after putting a new one in.. Working On Getting A New One Hope that fix it With Replacing it to a another New One.. Gas mileage is terrible
Did It Help Your Gas Mileage after Fixing it? My 2006 Chevy Truck Is Doing Same-thing p0049 code And Killing My Gas Mileage.. Help
Hi! The systems are all tied together, so potentially this part being bad could effect mileage, but it usually isn't the first symptom. I would replace it and go from there. Are you getting any other codes? Have you done a tuneup recently? Are you up on your basic maintenance?
Also, what motor/gearing/tire size/how heavy your foot is can all impact gas mileage. Even the change from "summer gas" to "winter gas". What mileage are you getting now?
@@CompTechMike After A Installing A New Part Canister (P0049 ) Still Gas Mileage and Light Is Back On And 12 Miles A Gallon
@@frankmeister1743 are you getting any other codes? Has the problem started recently? How "up" are you on your maintenance?
Did this improve gas mileage? My colorado has bad gas mileage and this is the fault I have
Hi Erik! Thanks for checking out my video. When you say "bad gas mileage", what, exactly, are you getting? The 1st generation Colorado/Canyon platform was never known for sipping fuel, and obviously many things can impact this ranging from tire size/inflation, what engine (4 cylinder 2.8 or 2.9, inline 5 3.5 or 3.7, or V8 5.3), how clean your throttle body and airflow sensors, Seafoam the engine, evap leaks, brand and type of gas, down to how heavy your foot is and whether you're driving across flat terrain or up and down mountains. So many variables!
In any case, average is around 17 mpg. But that's a very rough ballpark for 15-year-old trucks. If you're getting a code for this part though, I would start my troubleshooting with that. Hope it helps. 😊 Good luck!
could this cause a random engine misfire at idle?
Hi! A bad vapor canister can cause vacuum leaks, incorrect air/fuel mixture, rough running, and smell of fuel. The old saying "anything's possible" but I wouldn't think it likely to cause a misfire.
I'd start by checking codes, plugs, coils, PCV system, engine sensors (MAP, MAF, VVT, cam & crank position, and O2 sensors), and cleaning throttle body. If you're getting a specific code feel free to drop it in the comments. Good luck, if you figure it out come back and let us know!
Would this issue cause the gas to spill back up while pumping gas?
Hi there! Yes, that is definitely a symptom of a clogged vapor canister. You may want to check a few other emissions components and do a smoke test to check the integrity of your system, but not being able to fill up correctly is definitely a common symptom. This article has some other good info that may help:
rxmechanic.com/symptoms-of-a-bad-evap-canister/
@@CompTechMike I appreciate it, thank you
Did the engine code stay off or did it end up coming back on?
Hi! Thanks for the comment. It's been almost two years since I made this video. The code has never come back. :-)
Good info next time please show every step instead of pausing the camera.
Hi! Thanks for the comment. Unfortunately it's pretty hard to hold a camera and turn wrenches at the same time. Maybe someday I will be rich enough to hire an assistant! LOL. 🤣
Edit: I am using a tripod in some of my newer videos. Not perfect, but trying to improve. 😊
Why not replace the Canister too?
Sure, you could do that. It's been a few years since I made this video but I think the canister was a lot more expensive, and from everything I read online the only part that needed to be replaced (for that particular code) was the part I did. The canister is basically just a box full of charcoal, doesn't need to be replaced unless it is soaked with fuel. 😉
Dont forget the isuzu i370 or i290 too
Thanks! Good point. Don't see very many Isuzu's around here; I do tend to forget about them, LOL. 😀👍👍
@@CompTechMike np i love mine, and your videos on your Colorado have been very helpful
Change blower motor for a/c
Hi! I'm not sure I understand. I think you're commenting on the wrong video. This one has nothing to do with the A/C. 🤷