Dylan, buddy, take it from a guy that has made lots of mistakes, PLEASE wear a mask while you are grinding and painting. All the rust dust and fumes from the shaker cans will most assuredly mess your lungs up at a later date. Another great vid!
I was going to post the same thing. The chemicals used in spray cans (ESPECIALLY primers) are almost, and sometimes, no different than what's sprayed out of a paint gun in a booth. Organic vapor 3M masks are available at even lowes, and you can even buy replacement filter packs on amazon, 10, 20, 30 at a time. A little pricey, but cheaper then chemotherapy. If you use them in short bursts, like this engine painting, you can put them in ziplock baggies to get another spray or two out of them.
Yeah it’s concerned me in past videos too, Dylan, love you man, please love your body as much as you love your cars! And as much as God loves you. Thanks for the work you do, inspired me to sort my own car out myself.
P95 respirator from Home Depot is $50 and so worth it. I’m 18 and I’ve done enough grinding and painting and inhaling rust that I went and bought a good respirator. Some of the best money that I’ve ever spent.
The Monaco is such a cool, interesting, and period emblematic car. I'm happy to see you taking the time to get an engine in it and get it going. You can do a lot of long haul stuff with it and really discover how your grampa's generation traveled in a big 2 door car during the space race era. They have a lot of charm and character. Can't wait to run into it at an event.
Looks awesome! Back in the day my Mom had a 76 Charger SE with the 400 in it. Was a lean burn also. Never could get it to run right when new, so after a year we ended up back dating it with pre lean burn parts. After that it was a awesome car, and ran strong!! I took my drivers test in that car. Keep up the work.
We had a lean burn 318 which ran well for many miles, but then that lean burn crap began to fail and eventually my dad got a bypass kit from the dealer and it ran well for many more miles - was a 1978 caravelle
@@kellismith4329 Ours never ran right from new. After many trips to the dealer, my stepdad, who owned his own garage, changed it over. Was great after that, other only getting about 10-11 MPG!!
Very similar to a personal project ive got goin myself right now. Super nervous to dig into the engine, but I feel i can do what you did and safely assemble it to run again! Thanks a million for your unintentional confidence booster!
Never hurts to spring for pizza and invite a couple of friends over who have a little more experience. Four/six/eight eyes are better than two and it also helps the confidence. Just maybe hold the beers until after the wrenches are put away. 😁👍 CHEERS!
Once you just go ahead and do it you'll see its not as scary as you think I was exactly the same I bought a 85 dodge 100 prospector truck and wanted to do engine upgrades and it was this channel right here I discovered one day while looking at warlocks and then from there I found some other channels that I'm sure you probably know the names of Dylan even answered a question I asked once in the comments..But anyway Dylan and some if his Friends made me feel like I could do it...so I did it and it turned out well
Greetings from australia. Just a tip. I use 2 to 3 cans of oven cleaner aerosol at a few bucks a can here which does an amazing job ist up. Ist coat give the foam a good agitation witj a stiff brush/brushes snd let sit for 5 mins. Rinse and repeat. Will move that thick grease well. Good rubber gloves and eye protection a must. Have fun.
HI DYLAN ,, MY SON MAX 7YR.S OLD AND I REALLY LIKE YOUR SHOWS WE LEARN ALOT SINCE I HAVE A OLD CAR ALSO.. MAX SAID LOOK THERES THE MUSTANG IN THE BACK GROUND THAT VIDEO HE LIKED ,,. HE LAUGHS AT YOUR MIC IT LOOKS LIKE A LITTLE MOUSE NEAR YOUR THROAT,HA!! IT IS SO EASY TO TAKE IT APART BUT PUTTING IT BACK TOGETHER WOW!! THANK G-D YOU KNOW WHAT YOUR DOING AND TEACHING US ..GREAT JOB ,, WE THOUGHT YOU WERE GOING TO GET THE ENGINE IN THE CAR AND RUNNING , WELL THATS PART 2 THANKS, PEACE..
The main thing that engine needed was valve seals and i didn't see you replace them. The old ones always end up in the oil pan/ oil pump and engine will also smoke
That is a beautiful engine for a 70's smogger. With the addition of the EGR and single exhaust with a catalytic converter these engines ran really hot in the crankcase and almost always are full of carbon and sludge. That looks like a winner!!
30 years ago, a friend gave me a 72 Polara with a 400 and 727. I put in a cheapo PAW 224/234, 465/488 cam (Same one Summit and others sell today), a fresh timing chain, oil pump, and windage tray. Another guy gave me a wrecked, rusty, gutted out 68 Charger with no motor. He also gave me a set of 452 heads with 6 pack springs, and brand new Hedman headers. I combined all that with a 600 Holley, Torker 383, and 3.91 Sure Grip, and ran 13.5s at 105, on Street tires.
Hello Dylan from Pittsburgh PA! I love watching your videos. I know nothing about fixing cars. But I like your content a lot learn little things here and there. The way you bring old vehicles back to life is awesome. Keep up the amazing work my friend!
Nice build, one thing I would have done differently - steel shim head gaskets. .020 compressed vs .040 - about a half a point of compression, and when you are starting with 7.5:1 compression, everything makes a big difference.
I shot my last engine with epoxy primer and then used a single stage urethane paint. Like you'd paint the body of the car. It has held up fantastic. When it gets a little dusty from driving, I just wash it like I would the outside of the car, dry it up, and it looks perfect again. I don't think I'll ever spray bomb one again. The difference is night and day. Great work man
Trick I learned long ago about that is to run a piece of 3/8 fuel line on top of the rocker arm pedestals below the push rods, keeps them in the correct place to engage lifters
Dylan this project is aching my heart because in 1985/86 I had exactly the same color and year Monaco 2 door that I scored in Indy from a fellow Mopar gearhead for $400.00. It wasn't running but did bar over,,, I did the same thing to it's 413, cleaned it up, new head gaskets and cam & lifters and ground the valves at school, (Lincoln Tech). I used P.A.W. parts, (Performance Automotive Wholesale) and then, I made 1/4" thick covers for the exhaust ports, fuel pump, intake valley and carb plate,, so that I could low pressure bead blast the whole thing, before applying the Dupont Euro sealer primer, and then the JW Hirsch epoxy turquoise paint. Man, that thing has stayed beautiful all these years, and now, looks like a savage quality survivor, with a little bit of temperature discoloration around the exhaust ports and head bolts, but dammit,, the Monaco got hit in traffic and folded the quarter and roof so hard it broke the rear glass out. I cried for the old car,, it was Dove Grey with Oxblood red buckets and console beautiful with body color cop 15x7's and Dodge Division buzzer caps. I hand welded elbows and straights together out of 3" tubing for a Nascar style right side exit in front of the rear wheel. Even mashed the tips to oval baloney cuts. Loved the way that old girl slid down the interstate. At least I kept all the 413/727 cableshifted driveline, and eventually I found a very straight '66 Monaco 500 two door body to put it all back in. The '66 is beautiful too, better bigger delta taillights, but the old Grey '65 still haunts my dreams. Seeing you wake this one back up has brought really good memories back. Godspeed Man.
That sludge you cleaned out of the rear freeze plug is actually the original casting sand that was used when the block was cast. I pulled out about 2 cups of it when I replaced the plugs on my 68 Darts 318. Chrysler was a bit sloppy back in the day. Love your presentations! Keep them coming!
Loving the progress on these builds, but I'm really loving your growth with video quality. You really seem to be finding your niche with editing and adding a healthy dose of humor. Keep it up!
When it comes to cleaning parts on an engine..... A machine shop with a vat or wash cleaner is your best friend.. I always did that and it saved me so much time cleaning and scrubbing.....
You should not put parts in until the whole block is clean, including the mating surfaces. Hole bunch of grit and dirt will fall in those new parts when you clean the mating surfaces. But over all good to see some one showing the whole process of refreshing an old engine.
UTG has a great video on pre paint block prep. He uses lite duty blow torch to exhume moisture and unseen oils to cook off before paint. Got a few negative comments saying his method was no good but his paint sticks like poo 2a blankey on them blocks. I was surprised how much moisture came out of it. Worth a watch.
The one thing I always access to when I was younger & building Cars & Trucks was a Landa Hot Water Pressure Washer, 200 degrees 1500PSI add in some Spray 9 and you could eat off of the engines & transmissions before ever putting a wrench to it. They have models now that are much more affordable then back in the day 3k I think they cost back then.
This video makes me so happy finally a 400getting some attention instead of getting yanked out and thrown away the paint looks really good can't wait till the next video thanks for sharing Dylan 👍
All I have yo say is thank you Dylan! This series is exactly what I need right now. I have a '76 motorhome 440 I plan to freshen up over the coming summer to put in my Charger. This is pretty much exactly what I plan to do to it, so seeing the choices you made and the tips you shared will help me immensely. Still need to figure out how to get it to play nice with a 4-speed. Honestly I'm tempted to swap the crank since I'll be right there to do the rear main seal.
I had a 76 Newport with a 400 but had the lean burn ignition scrap the lean burn . I put a points distributer and cured the problems with the ignition !
Hey Dylan great video, something that's really cheap at the dollar stores for cleaning engines and trannys is oven cleaner sprayed on let it set for a while and power wash
I used to daily a 68 Monaco with a 318. I had to jam a screwdriver in the carb on cold mornings to get it to fire up. I loved that car and wish I still had it.
Winner. Finished a late shift at work and now I've got another superb video by Dylan to enjoy with a cold beer and a late night snack. Dylan. Your videos are so interesting and make me feel like I could do this myself. Thanks for your time and effort. God bless you and yours :)
Awesome! I did a similar build 20 years ago. I picked up a low mileage 76 440 out of a New Yorker. I did have a valve job done to them 452 heads. I installed a Comp 268H cam. I dropped it into a 66 Coronet. With a 323 gear, ran great! I did install a set of headers and a dual plane intake. My wife loved to drive it! Even ran a 13.40 at the strip
Dylan, you need a blasting Cabinet there cheap at hobo freight. I’ve had one for years and makes cleaning all the engine sheet metal a breeze and gets in all those crooks and cranny’s. I’ve always used glass bead. Just a fyi
Great video. Glad you're keeping the 383 on the side. A numbers matching engine on an old car is quite rare. Might be able to do a video on how to get the machine work done for a rebuild over several months for those who aren't able to spend the money all at one time but can piece things together and eventually have a completely rebuilt motor ready to go on the shelf.
Hey. Try next time a brush on primer a rusty metal Rust-Oleum is pretty good on the block 2 maybe 3 coats. Then a spray finish. But the vidyas are👍👍👍UP. Nice!!!.
Dylan I be hove you to change the valve springs to higher spring tension and valve seals while you have the heads off. With that hotter cam you will float the valves early on and the engine will misfire and also if you leave those crusty hard valve seals it will cause oil past the seals and burn oil . You will have a bug spraying Dodge with plenty of smoke fouled plugs and floating valves. I know you wont read this listen to me but I thought I would write this anyway call summit and get some springs and seals coming .
The cam had the same lift as a stocker. I think it is better to keep spring pressure to the bare minimum to avoid wiping the cam lobes. This is a low rpm engine.
@@auteurfiddler8706 I disagree with you. The valve springs are 45 years old and in the time frame the metal gets fatigued and the spring pressure that was designed by Chrysler diminishes. Even at a medium RPM range the chances of valve float increase . You are using smog valve springs form a smog cam and introducing a fresh cam that has a high lift and increased duration than the smog low performance can and this will put even more stress on the fatigued 45 year old smog springs that are pretty much shot. Also you haven't addressed the cracked dried up valve seals that will introduce oil past the valve guides and valve stems, especially during valve float, in your comment. Even on a budget build you just dont put in a hotter cam and not also upgrade the valve springs and install new valve seals.
You should replace the core plugs on the heads too. I have found the core plug on the back side of the head rot's out faster then the others and it sits against the firewall and you have to pull the engine or take the head off to change it.
It’s awesome someone finally throws some appreciation towards the 400bb, it seems like the bad compression ratio scares people away from it and some have never heard of it, but it’s really a good way to get a cheap reliable 70s era big block
In my day, these were great motors. Cheap and plentiful in any wrecking yard. Bigger bore than a 440 with the shorter stroke of a 383. Mill the heads and intake for compression, use 340 - 273 adjustable rocker arms with a solid lifter cam. I don't recall having to rebush or modify them. Back then I was doing that with a budget of pickin' strawberries and buckin' hay. Sometimes the locals would bring out cars so fast I never stood a chance at the stoplight. But I always pulled over, a few miles down the road, to swap stories with them while their engine cooled down...
I enjoyed this video. My 70 Challenger I drug out of a pig barn after 40 years has the exact same engine. I was curious how you were going to increase the compression, but you didn't do anything to the pistons. I was surprised you didn't at least clean the tops of the pistons off. A low cost set of cast pistons & new rings would have made a big difference. But, it's a cheap rebuild, so I understand your reasons doing it the way you did it. But I wouldn't really call what you did a rebuild. I'm excited about working again on my Challenger after I've had to take a break from my channel for personal reasons. I also had a 65 Polara that I sold to a guy in Iowa. There's a video on it if you want to watch it. I enjoy your channel! Cool cars.
If the engine hasn't run in a while use heat from a torch to clean the cast iron in the block and head form built up residue on the inside of the porous cast iron. And have the paint stick.
I bought an engine for my 70 Challenger. After pulling the freeze plugs I got out of the block a couple pounds of sand!!!! They never power washed this block. I could not believe it. No wonder I was told it kept running hot. This motor once I rebuilt it ran over 140mph before I let off, I believe it could of gone a bit faster!
I’m 77 on a very limited income, so I can’t really afford to buy anything, but I always watch like and comment because I heard that helps. Sending good vibes from MamaCard in Florida.
I had a ‘66 Polara with a 383 and that car was awesome. I know the 65 and 66 years shared a lot of similar parts and body lines. You’ll enjoy it. I loved mine and drove it a lot. I have a small video of it in my channel.
Cleaning the old crud off your engine and trans is one of my favorite activities. Does it make a big difference in the way it performs?? Probably not, but it's gonna run a little cooler and They're a whole lot nicer to work on...
When you were flushing the water jackets the song for some reason made me think of val and earl driving into perfection chased by graboids in the movie Tremor's. Love seeing low buck rustorations that most average gearheads can afford.
That is a clean motor, inside. We used to steam clean greasy engines before we had pressure washers.. I really like the way you knocked out the freeze plugs and cleaned out the water passages. Torque wins races.
Great job Dylan!!!!! Primer is key n cleaning......What happen to the PINTO WAGON you bought n drove home????? Was you gonna fool with it anymore??????
Great vid, Dylan! I enjoyed the semi-rebuild. Is good to see that one can do a lot with a little and accomplish the goal of a strong engine. Thanks! steve
You covered a point a lot of people miss when painting an engine. That primer is important. Wanna take it a step further? Use a "high fill" primer, or even use an epoxy primer or a thin coat of body filler on the cast to give it a smoother finish. The results are amazing for little money if you want it to look REAL good.
O'rielys engine degreaser in a can works great. Soak it with one can, let it sit for about a half hour and pressure wash. Soak it down with the second can after the first wash and wash the 2nd time and it will be almost spotless for grease and debris.
Excellent! I've used oven cleaner from the $ 1 store to degrease things. Really enjoy your videos. You're an amazing mechanic for saving old cars and money. Keep up the good work. GOD bless you and your family!
I was just curious is you had the block clean out due to the build-up of sludge in the water jacket, also I was wondering in you removed the cam bearing since you installed a new cam,
I learned the hard way a long time ago in my mechanic career to ALWAYS put the freeze plugs in BEFORE painting the block... All it takes is a slight sliver of paint & or debris to get on the inner edge where the freeze plug seals and its going to leak in that spot later... Seen that happen more times then I can count... Painting the block after helps to seal the plug a bit better with the layers of paint
Dylan, buddy, take it from a guy that has made lots of mistakes, PLEASE wear a mask while you are grinding and painting. All the rust dust and fumes from the shaker cans will most assuredly mess your lungs up at a later date. Another great vid!
Agree from a 60 year old...As well be careful if there is lead paint when making dust.. Great video !!!
I was going to post the same thing. The chemicals used in spray cans (ESPECIALLY primers) are almost, and sometimes, no different than what's sprayed out of a paint gun in a booth. Organic vapor 3M masks are available at even lowes, and you can even buy replacement filter packs on amazon, 10, 20, 30 at a time. A little pricey, but cheaper then chemotherapy. If you use them in short bursts, like this engine painting, you can put them in ziplock baggies to get another spray or two out of them.
Yeah it’s concerned me in past videos too, Dylan, love you man, please love your body as much as you love your cars! And as much as God loves you. Thanks for the work you do, inspired me to sort my own car out myself.
P95 respirator from Home Depot is $50 and so worth it. I’m 18 and I’ve done enough grinding and painting and inhaling rust that I went and bought a good respirator. Some of the best money that I’ve ever spent.
Oh God, the OSHA geriatric squad showed up!
The Monaco is such a cool, interesting, and period emblematic car. I'm happy to see you taking the time to get an engine in it and get it going. You can do a lot of long haul stuff with it and really discover how your grampa's generation traveled in a big 2 door car during the space race era. They have a lot of charm and character. Can't wait to run into it at an event.
Looks awesome! Back in the day my Mom had a 76 Charger SE with the 400 in it. Was a lean burn also. Never could get it to run right when new, so after a year we ended up back dating it with pre lean burn parts. After that it was a awesome car, and ran strong!! I took my drivers test in that car. Keep up the work.
We had a lean burn 318 which ran well for many miles, but then that lean burn crap began to fail and eventually my dad got a bypass kit from the dealer and it ran well for many more miles - was a 1978 caravelle
@@kellismith4329 Ours never ran right from new. After many trips to the dealer, my stepdad, who owned his own garage, changed it over. Was great after that, other only getting about 10-11 MPG!!
I learn a lot from you in these videos. Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge with us
Very similar to a personal project ive got goin myself right now. Super nervous to dig into the engine, but I feel i can do what you did and safely assemble it to run again! Thanks a million for your unintentional confidence booster!
Never hurts to spring for pizza and invite a couple of friends over who have a little more experience. Four/six/eight eyes are better than two and it also helps the confidence.
Just maybe hold the beers until after the wrenches are put away. 😁👍
CHEERS!
Once you just go ahead and do it you'll see its not as scary as you think I was exactly the same I bought a 85 dodge 100 prospector truck and wanted to do engine upgrades and it was this channel right here I discovered one day while looking at warlocks and then from there I found some other channels that I'm sure you probably know the names of Dylan even answered a question I asked once in the comments..But anyway Dylan and some if his Friends made me feel like I could do it...so I did it and it turned out well
Greetings from australia. Just a tip. I use 2 to 3 cans of oven cleaner aerosol at a few bucks a can here which does an amazing job ist up. Ist coat give the foam a good agitation witj a stiff brush/brushes snd let sit for 5 mins. Rinse and repeat. Will move that thick grease well. Good rubber gloves and eye protection a must. Have fun.
HI DYLAN ,, MY SON MAX 7YR.S OLD AND I REALLY LIKE YOUR SHOWS WE LEARN ALOT SINCE I HAVE A OLD CAR ALSO.. MAX SAID LOOK THERES THE MUSTANG IN THE BACK GROUND THAT VIDEO HE LIKED ,,. HE LAUGHS AT YOUR MIC IT LOOKS LIKE A LITTLE MOUSE NEAR YOUR THROAT,HA!! IT IS SO EASY TO TAKE IT APART BUT PUTTING IT BACK TOGETHER WOW!! THANK G-D YOU KNOW WHAT YOUR DOING AND TEACHING US ..GREAT JOB ,, WE THOUGHT YOU WERE GOING TO GET THE ENGINE IN THE CAR AND RUNNING , WELL THATS PART 2 THANKS, PEACE..
You should use EZ OFF oven cleaner, it works great at cleaning grease and grime off
The main thing that engine needed was valve seals and i didn't see you replace them. The old ones always end up in the oil pan/ oil pump and engine will also smoke
I was wondering about valves and rings. Seems silly not to at least inspect them.
That is a beautiful engine for a 70's smogger. With the addition of the EGR and single exhaust with a catalytic converter these engines ran really hot in the crankcase and almost always are full of carbon and sludge. That looks like a winner!!
30 years ago, a friend gave me a 72 Polara with a 400 and 727. I put in a cheapo PAW 224/234, 465/488 cam (Same one Summit and others sell today), a fresh timing chain, oil pump, and windage tray. Another guy gave me a wrecked, rusty, gutted out 68 Charger with no motor. He also gave me a set of 452 heads with 6 pack springs, and brand new Hedman headers. I combined all that with a 600 Holley, Torker 383, and 3.91 Sure Grip, and ran 13.5s at 105, on Street tires.
Hello Dylan from Pittsburgh PA! I love watching your videos. I know nothing about fixing cars. But I like your content a lot learn little things here and there. The way you bring old vehicles back to life is awesome. Keep up the amazing work my friend!
Dylan! I believe that you will need to use the oil pan from the 383. Look at the pans carefully.
That motor will do great! Like it!
You are correct, sir! I learned the hard way when I tried to turn the steering wheel.
and I agree
Nice build, one thing I would have done differently - steel shim head gaskets. .020 compressed vs .040 - about a half a point of compression, and when you are starting with 7.5:1 compression, everything makes a big difference.
I shot my last engine with epoxy primer and then used a single stage urethane paint. Like you'd paint the body of the car. It has held up fantastic. When it gets a little dusty from driving, I just wash it like I would the outside of the car, dry it up, and it looks perfect again. I don't think I'll ever spray bomb one again. The difference is night and day. Great work man
Wow at how clean this 400 big block is even the valley is super clean was well taken care of through its life time @Dylan McCool
Love your honesty - we ALL make mistakes. Looking forward to the next rattle-can and seeing this mill move a Monaco!!!
Trick I learned long ago about that is to run a piece of 3/8 fuel line on top of the rocker arm pedestals below the push rods, keeps them in the correct place to engage lifters
Dylan this project is aching my heart because in 1985/86 I had exactly the same color and year Monaco 2 door that I scored in Indy from a fellow Mopar gearhead for $400.00. It wasn't running but did bar over,,, I did the same thing to it's 413, cleaned it up, new head gaskets and cam & lifters and ground the valves at school, (Lincoln Tech).
I used P.A.W. parts, (Performance Automotive Wholesale) and then, I made 1/4" thick covers for the exhaust ports, fuel pump, intake valley and carb plate,, so that I could low pressure bead blast the whole thing, before applying the Dupont Euro sealer primer, and then the JW Hirsch epoxy turquoise paint.
Man, that thing has stayed beautiful all these years, and now, looks like a savage quality survivor, with a little bit of temperature discoloration around the exhaust ports and head bolts, but dammit,, the Monaco got hit in traffic and folded the quarter and roof so hard it broke the rear glass out.
I cried for the old car,, it was Dove Grey with Oxblood red buckets and console beautiful with body color cop 15x7's and Dodge Division buzzer caps. I hand welded elbows and straights together out of 3" tubing for a Nascar style right side exit in front of the rear wheel. Even mashed the tips to oval baloney cuts.
Loved the way that old girl slid down the interstate. At least I kept all the 413/727 cableshifted driveline, and eventually I found a very straight '66 Monaco 500 two door body to put it all back in.
The '66 is beautiful too, better bigger delta taillights, but the old Grey '65 still haunts my dreams. Seeing you wake this one back up has brought really good memories back.
Godspeed Man.
That sludge you cleaned out of the rear freeze plug is actually the original casting sand that was used when the block was cast. I pulled out about 2 cups of it when I replaced the plugs on my 68 Darts 318. Chrysler was a bit sloppy back in the day. Love your presentations! Keep them coming!
Wow that freeze plug block port is nasty
Loving the progress on these builds, but I'm really loving your growth with video quality. You really seem to be finding your niche with editing and adding a healthy dose of humor. Keep it up!
When it comes to cleaning parts on an engine..... A machine shop with a vat or wash cleaner is your best friend.. I always did that and it saved me so much time cleaning and scrubbing.....
You should not put parts in until the whole block is clean, including the mating surfaces. Hole bunch of grit and dirt will fall in those new parts when you clean the mating surfaces. But over all good to see some one showing the whole process of refreshing an old engine.
This was incredible your narration has become just so engaging Dillion you are the man !!
A dab of the Moly lube for start up is a bonus, or a drop or two oil good too.
"PURPLE POWER" is the stuff to work with for decreasing!
Another vote for dollar store oven cleaner
9:50 OMG ITS YOUR CLONE!!!!
UTG has a great video on pre paint block prep. He uses lite duty blow torch to exhume moisture and unseen oils to cook off before paint. Got a few negative comments saying his method was no good but his paint sticks like poo 2a blankey on them blocks. I was surprised how much moisture came out of it. Worth a watch.
The one thing I always access to when I was younger & building Cars & Trucks was a Landa Hot Water Pressure Washer, 200 degrees 1500PSI add in some Spray 9 and you could eat off of the engines & transmissions before ever putting a wrench to it. They have models now that are much more affordable then back in the day 3k I think they cost back then.
This video makes me so happy finally a 400getting some attention instead of getting yanked out and thrown away the paint looks really good can't wait till the next video thanks for sharing Dylan 👍
Im same way i like what ever body else dont . Lol
All I have yo say is thank you Dylan! This series is exactly what I need right now. I have a '76 motorhome 440 I plan to freshen up over the coming summer to put in my Charger. This is pretty much exactly what I plan to do to it, so seeing the choices you made and the tips you shared will help me immensely. Still need to figure out how to get it to play nice with a 4-speed. Honestly I'm tempted to swap the crank since I'll be right there to do the rear main seal.
Great Video you should consider making yourself a Vapour Baster from a snadblasting cabinet would have cleaned up those rocker covers awesome
I had a 76 Newport with a 400 but had the lean burn ignition scrap the lean burn . I put a points distributer and cured the problems with the ignition !
Hey Dylan great video, something that's really cheap at the dollar stores for cleaning engines and trannys is oven cleaner sprayed on let it set for a while and power wash
I used to daily a 68 Monaco with a 318. I had to jam a screwdriver in the carb on cold mornings to get it to fire up. I loved that car and wish I still had it.
I love that turquoise! I am doing torqn' teal on my 5.9 magnum with the orange air cleaner. Doing a nod to the old 360s from the 70s in my Ram Van!
Winner. Finished a late shift at work and now I've got another superb video by Dylan to enjoy with a cold beer and a late night snack. Dylan. Your videos are so interesting and make me feel like I could do this myself. Thanks for your time and effort. God bless you and yours :)
I really appreciate that you are humble enough to show your mistakes. It would be so easy for you to edit those out…
Good catch on the pushrod. Great video!
40 cubic inches Shy of PURE VICTORY
Super clean main bearings
Good Video! I have just bought a 440 with 62,000 miles out of RV going to freshen up and find me a Mopar to play around with also 💪🏻
You make it look easy Dylan! Love your easy relaxed approach, you really are Mr Mc Cool!
Good luck from Ireland 🇮🇪
home of the DeLorean
As another poster mentioned, you will have to use the 383 oil pan.
often asbestos rope wick type = in some older cars! asbestos for the heat .
I’m enjoying the budget rebuild I did something similar when I did my 70 383 for my 69 Dodge Coronet sedan.
Looking forward to seeing the next video.
been a while since last seeing dylan build a clean engine .........satisfactory to see the engine get a new look
Awesome! I did a similar build 20 years ago. I picked up a low mileage 76 440 out of a New Yorker. I did have a valve job done to them 452 heads. I installed a Comp 268H cam. I dropped it into a 66 Coronet. With a 323 gear, ran great! I did install a set of headers and a dual plane intake. My wife loved to drive it! Even ran a 13.40 at the strip
Dylan, you need a blasting Cabinet there cheap at hobo freight. I’ve had one for years and makes cleaning all the engine sheet metal a breeze and gets in all those crooks and cranny’s. I’ve always used glass bead. Just a fyi
Fantastic video!
Takes me back to my first engine rebuild - 62 Chrysler Newport 361 2 bbl!
Thanks again!!!
Great video. Glad you're keeping the 383 on the side. A numbers matching engine on an old car is quite rare. Might be able to do a video on how to get the machine work done for a rebuild over several months for those who aren't able to spend the money all at one time but can piece things together and eventually have a completely rebuilt motor ready to go on the shelf.
When installing the rockers you can use a straightened out wire coat hanger to hold the pushrods in line to help them stay in place
Another great video. Thanks Dylan!
Hey. Try next time a brush on primer a rusty metal Rust-Oleum is pretty good on the block 2 maybe 3 coats. Then a spray finish. But the vidyas are👍👍👍UP. Nice!!!.
Great vid for the DIY kinda guy! Thanks for sharing
Looks good Dylan. Looking forward to hearing it run.
I love your channel I have been following it for a long time thank you from France
Yea!! The Old Dylan is BACK 👍😀🎆🇺🇸🔥Power
I'm an old school mechanic 68 yrs old. Before all the silicone stuff became popular we used Indian Head Gasket Shallac! No leaks guaranteed!
For which gaskets? Not head gaskets??
No not head gaskets! Any place where you had a paper gasket. It was also good applied to the edges of freeze plugs before you drive them in.
Dylan I be hove you to change the valve springs to higher spring tension and valve seals while you have the heads off. With that hotter cam you will float the valves early on and the engine will misfire and also if you leave those crusty hard valve seals it will cause oil past the seals and burn oil . You will have a bug spraying Dodge with plenty of smoke fouled plugs and floating valves. I know you wont read this listen to me but I thought I would write this anyway call summit and get some springs and seals coming .
The cam had the same lift as a stocker. I think it is better to keep spring pressure to the bare minimum to avoid wiping the cam lobes. This is a low rpm engine.
@@auteurfiddler8706 I disagree with you. The valve springs are 45 years old and in the time frame the metal gets fatigued and the spring pressure that was designed by Chrysler diminishes. Even at a medium RPM range the chances of valve float increase . You are using smog valve springs form a smog cam and introducing a fresh cam that has a high lift and increased duration than the smog low performance can and this will put even more stress on the fatigued 45 year old smog springs that are pretty much shot. Also you haven't addressed the cracked dried up valve seals that will introduce oil past the valve guides and valve stems, especially during valve float, in your comment. Even on a budget build you just dont put in a hotter cam and not also upgrade the valve springs and install new valve seals.
You should replace the core plugs on the heads too. I have found the core plug on the back side of the head rot's out faster then the others and it sits against the firewall and you have to pull the engine or take the head off to change it.
I cut a hole in the firewall to change it lol.
Very good instructional video.Good work Dylan. Would love to see other everyday engines rebuilt.
You've taken a lot of time and put a lot of effort, I noticed you pay close attention to detail and the results are fantastic 👍☮️
It’s awesome someone finally throws some appreciation towards the 400bb, it seems like the bad compression ratio scares people away from it and some have never heard of it, but it’s really a good way to get a cheap reliable 70s era big block
Great build! Like what we used to back in the day. Kinda shocked that you didn't have a pair of 915s in the wings somewhere.
In my day, these were great motors. Cheap and plentiful in any wrecking yard. Bigger bore than a 440 with the shorter stroke of a 383. Mill the heads and intake for compression, use 340 - 273 adjustable rocker arms with a solid lifter cam. I don't recall having to rebush or modify them. Back then I was doing that with a budget of pickin' strawberries and buckin' hay. Sometimes the locals would bring out cars so fast I never stood a chance at the stoplight. But I always pulled over, a few miles down the road, to swap stories with them while their engine cooled down...
I enjoyed this video. My 70 Challenger I drug out of a pig barn after 40 years has the exact same engine. I was curious how you were going to increase the compression, but you didn't do anything to the pistons. I was surprised you didn't at least clean the tops of the pistons off. A low cost set of cast pistons & new rings would have made a big difference. But, it's a cheap rebuild, so I understand your reasons doing it the way you did it. But I wouldn't really call what you did a rebuild. I'm excited about working again on my Challenger after I've had to take a break from my channel for personal reasons. I also had a 65 Polara that I sold to a guy in Iowa. There's a video on it if you want to watch it. I enjoy your channel! Cool cars.
If the engine hasn't run in a while use heat from a torch to clean the cast iron in the block and head form built up residue on the inside of the porous cast iron. And have the paint stick.
thanks for the video cant wait to hear see it back in the car!
I bought an engine for my 70 Challenger. After pulling the freeze plugs I got out of the block a couple pounds of sand!!!! They never power washed this block. I could not believe it. No wonder I was told it kept running hot. This motor once I rebuilt it ran over 140mph before I let off, I believe it could of gone a bit faster!
I’m 77 on a very limited income, so I can’t really afford to buy anything, but I always watch like and comment because I heard that helps. Sending good vibes from MamaCard in Florida.
I had a ‘66 Polara with a 383 and that car was awesome. I know the 65 and 66 years shared a lot of similar parts and body lines. You’ll enjoy it. I loved mine and drove it a lot. I have a small video of it in my channel.
The items you want to paint black would look good in a dark red with that turquoise @Dylan McCool
Cleaning the old crud off your engine and trans is one of my favorite activities. Does it make a big difference in the way it performs?? Probably not, but it's gonna run a little cooler and
They're a whole lot nicer to work on...
LOL wonder if that was from one of my Cordobas! Love driving those 400 big blocks.
When you were flushing the water jackets the song for some reason made me think of val and earl driving into perfection chased by graboids in the movie Tremor's. Love seeing low buck rustorations that most average gearheads can afford.
That is a clean motor, inside. We used to steam clean greasy engines before we had pressure washers..
I really like the way you knocked out the freeze plugs and cleaned out the water passages.
Torque wins races.
5:36 - is that a Barracuda in the left upper corner? Dylan, could you mention something about it if there's anything interesting?
Wow the water coming out of the block now is a lot clearer!!!!!
Great job Dylan!!!!! Primer is key n cleaning......What happen to the PINTO WAGON you bought n drove home????? Was you gonna fool with it anymore??????
Looks good Dylan I really enjoy your videos, I enjoyed working on vehicles when I was younger I did all of my own work keep the videos coming😊
I Had a 78 cordoba with that lean burn crap smog stuff. It was a 400. Grey with black interior
great stuff mate you sounded Aussie when you said Beautiful. 😉
Great vid, Dylan! I enjoyed the semi-rebuild. Is good to see that one can do a lot with a little and accomplish the goal of a strong engine. Thanks!
steve
Tons of compression @35:00
Beautiful engine. I once had a 1965 chrysler new yorker the same color.i sure do miss that car. Love your videos.keep up the good work.
I love the mudvayne reference 👍👍
You covered a point a lot of people miss when painting an engine. That primer is important. Wanna take it a step further? Use a "high fill" primer, or even use an epoxy primer or a thin coat of body filler on the cast to give it a smoother finish. The results are amazing for little money if you want it to look REAL good.
I had a 80s diplomat with the lean burn and it actually worked great.
Check out that production quality going up! Well done guys.
O'rielys engine degreaser in a can works great. Soak it with one can, let it sit for about a half hour and pressure wash. Soak it down with the second can after the first wash and wash the 2nd time and it will be almost spotless for grease and debris.
Agreed on the Valve covers......JUST RIGHT!
Excellent! I've used oven cleaner from the $ 1 store to degrease things. Really enjoy your videos. You're an amazing mechanic
for saving old cars and money. Keep up the good work. GOD bless you and your family!
Nice video! I think I would have spent the extra time take if the valves apart and lapping them and replacing the valve stem seals too!
I was just curious is you had the block clean out due to the build-up of sludge in the water jacket, also I was wondering in you removed the cam bearing since you installed a new cam,
My son and I really enjoy your vids. You are a blessing!
I learned the hard way a long time ago in my mechanic career to ALWAYS put the freeze plugs in BEFORE painting the block... All it takes is a slight sliver of paint & or debris to get on the inner edge where the freeze plug seals and its going to leak in that spot later... Seen that happen more times then I can count... Painting the block after helps to seal the plug a bit better with the layers of paint
Looks like fun. You should have included showing how to put the crank and cam gear on in proper orientation with the marks.
good video reminds me when i did my 400 .freind gave me a 76 plymouth volaire se had no engine so the 400 got a new home
Appreciate You Having Us Along, Coming Along Nicely. Looking Forward to The Next One, Keep It Safe Out There