Hi Keith, thanks for the reply, I can see the advantage for a stepped shaft. I will watch the following videos soon. I am impressed with your calm, clear commentary, I would get frustrated to stop and explain out loud all the time, it is good for your subscribers that you have the spare capacity to do so. Thanks Sam.
Heating that ring until it dropped right off was the coolest trick that I've ever seen! I would have though that the heat would have transferred through to the shaft before it enlarged enough to fall right off. Pretty cool Keith!
Keith Another great set of videos. Your little aside about changing out a cam roller bearing on the steady rest has helped me as I'm modifying my steady rest from plain bronze fingers to bearings and was not aware cam rollers existed as I was planning on buying bearings and making the shafts. Yet again your videos have taught me something very useful! . Thanks for all the very educational videos. I now have lots of my friends addicted to your channel up her in Canada!!. Sincerely, Paul
I may have missed you mention one of THE most important reasons to keep the shop temp/humidity as constant as possible ---> Condensation!! At least once a season - and usually excited to do some machine (or, Scooter!) time in the Sunshine - I miss or forget about an abrupt outside temperature change and hit the garage door "Open" button. I get to spend the next hour or so with some 3M pads, paper towels and WD-40 on the cold cast iron. REALLY appreciate the vids Keith!! Gracias! Jim / Ohio
Excellent video. I'm learning stuff I never imagined. Now hurry up with the next vid. This waiting stuff is driving me nuts. It's worse than waiting for the next Harry Potter movie.
I Don't see such big work pieces so often my lath @work only has 600 mm travel in Z and most times I get to turn stainless steel, and the insert we use last about 60-120 min in cutting action (SECO inserts and depending on the material). I'm always happy to watch work like this can't wait for the rest of the videos :D keep up the good work!
After a slight tap and some more heat-- plop! Love it. Genius thinking about that ring having significance in the whole scheme of things. You, friend, have got "IT" if you know what I mean. Frank
I'm surprised you had to get the blue wrench out to get that cam bearing out of the steady rest, but as you said cheapie allen screw. I think that is the first time I've seen in your vids using a hacksaw to complete the cut, your explanation makes sense not worth the risk to go all the way. Nice detective work on the shaft bearing collar. When the ring dropped to reveal the radius on the shaft just as you described earlier without seeing it first, great! Nice work Keith!
There was a reduced diameter at both ends and I like doing it that way because it’s in position to face and center drill for next operation of turning the diameter down on the ends. Thanks for the comment! ;{)---
If I wasn't going to be welding and having to worry about distortion, I would have machined it between centers but I was able to hog more off faster in the chuck! Thanks for the comment. ;{)----
You should consider building an outdoor wood-fired boiler for your shop and your home. Get an old oil tank for your firebox and some copper for water coils. You need circulating pumps, some pex tubing, radiators or baseboard heaters for inside. You could buy one ready-made but they're pretty pricey. There are a few TH-cam vids about making your own. Crafty guy like you should be able to whip up a winning unit. Firewood doesn't seem to be a problem. Good luck!
One thing I love about your vids is the fact that most jobs have problems that aren't necessarily anything to do with the actual project at hand..LOL.. In my thirty plus years in the trade it's always something.. It's refreshing that you do show these things and don't necessarily edit it out.. Sometimes it's the challenge that makes it interesting.. Gives us something to bitch about.
You make some of this stuff look like magic. I mean I know generally what's happening and why but you just seem to be able to get theory to work in real life without breaking an undue sweat.
Most serious turning vid yet, thanks! Good strategy finishing by hacksaw, parting 4.3" diameter! Way too hot at 82--a California thing? My shop cools to ambient during week while away at real work so handles are cold 'till Sunday. Will try green wood to extend burn time Fri and Sat evenings! 0.002" over 37" on rough cut diameter--I'd be happy with that on a finish cut! Nice roller cam steady design, brass tips on mine suck for fine work and are not radiused correctly for small diameters.
Radiant floor heat in a concrete slab is like heaven, I hear. Gotta insulate your slab. 6X6 remesh with pex tubing zip tied to the grid. If you go this way then your shop will keep the steel & iron warm overnight, no problem! I plan on doing this pretty soon after I move to my country land. I'm gonna do it back in the woods. Planning & Zoning can kiss my ass. We need more log-splitting videos!
Sweet job, my steady rest started life by being a good size pipe vise which gave me a good start. Rollers I used Detroit Diesel cam followers (lifters) which are heavy duty precision rollers.
Dude your a Legend.....I can tell you know your business, You remind me of an old Italian Man who did machinist work in California he has since passed away from cancer a year back but he was so much like you and how he explained things ....thank you for the Video's
I really enjoyed this video, as already stated. The camera work and editting are really good--almost as if you have a production crew. Fast forwarding through the mundane processes is great: takes a bite out of the overall time and moves the content. But the end of the vids leaves me with withdrawals!!!
Similar setup with the wood stove and the lathe and mill close by. I have to agree it takes for ever to get the tools warm again once you let the fire go out.
Keith your a man after my own hart I have a 93 dodge Diesel 4X4. Dodge all the way! Keith when parting how come you dont relive your cut then the blade wont bind ? How come the nut on your tail stock clamp is a Left hand thread??? Now is the time to build a new steady rest this job Warrants it you will get caught with out one day and maybe soon . West Coast Canada !! Good work Keep them coming
Thanks for posting this series Keith, very awesome. Would turning the whole work between centers (dog, "constant face turning" setup, etc) be of any benefit on this job? Could you avoid flipping the work end for end?
Fresh cut not fully dried or seasoned! I have a short metal stack on the stove and don’t build up with tars and saps build ups, like on longer runs and brick or mason linings. ;{)---
Another great video Keith. Regarding your steady, instead of taking the cam followers out to put on the other side, an alternative may be to simply make the arms symmetrical (if they aren't already), and rotate them 180 degrees so the bearings are on the other side. On mine they're symmetrical like that and it's much faster.
I believe they are considered size #4 cylinders and around the shop, average job here and there last about a month, if I was fitting and cutting like steel construction, I’ve gone through a full set in two days. ;{)---
I am no expert and am self taught. I often turn shafts this size or a little bigger. I was interested to watch you switch end to end several times and then part off the spare inch or so. I leave the spare in the chuck, turn the shaft and part off with the steady next to the chuck and finish with a hacksaw just like you! Is there an advantage to swapping end to end that I'm missing? Lovely tidy workshop, good video too!
I like what I see--you know your material and your feeds and speeds. Your understanding of the work to be done. But you could use better eye protection. I'm also a Machinist with many years of working the trade, where I've seen many happenings with safety procedures! Other than that--Great job of showing what you do--I too like the old equipment, where we still feel part of the job. And yep I'm retired!!
Hey Keith love your videos! Flipping that shaft end for end so many times is a lot of work. I learned very fast in a job shop that no two machinists will run a job exactly the same, but i can't help but ask. Why not run that shaft between centers? Or use shim stock and flip it only once? Also I would be a bit nervous running that live center with that size shaft. A little too small for me. Thank you for your videos!!!!!
My sister in law calls it the Florida room! I can open the door and get fresh air any time, also push the air into the other section which has no heat! I want warm handles and no jackets… ;{)---
I think it may be a concern if you were maximizing tool life and production speed to really fine tune, operation, it would pay to program the progressive adjustments. I kind of watch the chip color and feel the tool pressure of hand feeding, adjusting only the feed rate to compensate for the difference in SFPM. The Sandvik system is the most forgiving to older machines than any others! My Opinion, for the last twenty years! ;{)---
Just wondering, whats you're favorite machine tool? I am an apprentice machinist in western Canada and my personal favorite is the lathe. Raw power yet precision.
It’s only a cheap butt wooden shack, not much of even a foundation, very little insulation and does fluctuates a bit during the day with some traffic in and out. The trick is to create enough heat within the metal heap to keep until morning! ;{)---
I watched the parting process waiting for the explosion. Parting on my lathe must be done at the lowest speed with everything locked tight then flooded with coolant and with a deliberate but steady infeed. Usually any chatter is a split second warning for when the tool will explode in a mighty bang. I tend to only part mild steel and aluminum, any chrome moly or stainless just puts too much stress on the machine. I'll part it on the band saw, or with a hack saw or sawzall. Your machine is indeed strong and true to be able to part high alloy at 400rpm.
Hi Keith. Love watching your vids. Real good quality too. I was wondering why you bothered parting the end of this bar and as you say, risking the blade and tip. I think I would have surfaced off the excess. Also, do you ever use the rear toolpost for parting off?
If it stays in the box for ever, and if you put it to the wrong use or drop it real quick. I have had some last for a couple weeks before having to index them! ;{)---
WAtching you unstick a bolt I was wondering if you could use a little bit of silver. I make Silver Series lubricants . The silver additive I make is about 5% silver and does wonders for bolts so they do not stick. I will send you a little bottle if interested. Ron
I miss the snow ad cold over there here in Australia we have been 90 - 106 and my air con stays on around the 75 mark and I love it. I have been wanting to ask I paid for some aluminum round stock 4" OK and 4" long and it costs $34 US does sound about right for you guys.?
Does keeping the shop at a steady , even temperature have any positive effect on the dimensional stability of the equipment and the materials ? I know I , personally am much hapier when I can stay warm . That may or may not have a positive effect on the quality of workmanship . Thanks , Wyr God bless
The one key part though is having an understanding town LOL! My buddy going to help me put in radiant floor heat when I redo the footings and floor, it will be able to run through the wood stove if desired! Good comment! ;{)---
Hi Kieth. Can you please tell me what size your Oxy Acetylene cylinders are and approximately how long they last for on average with the tips and nozzles you use? I'm looking at sizing up my cylinders next time they empty. Thanks
I knew that cast iron chips are good for and bring out brilliant colors in rose bushes but didn't think alloy steel was good for any vegetation. ;{)---
Istill can't understand why there was such a huge gap in the original parts, .1 ins far out considering the weight and the possible harmonics in the machine it certainly explains the fatigue cracking due to flex inside where the flanges were welded. Personally a fridge fit and weld then LPG ie propane torch stress relieve the welds. That beaver should outlast the original machine.
Hi Keith, I'm here watching and learning from your videos, thanks for sharing. I would like to ask you a question. Could you tell us what you think of the change to the metric system in USA. (The metric system is legal in the US since 1866)
I personally REALLY dislike the metric sys....yeah I know simpler math and all but after years of experience you just don't get your head around unfamiliar units of measure as good as feet and inches....leading to mistakes
Oh, I forgot ... 28° celsius on the outer wall ... aren't you working ;-)) ... it's like a hot ball room with a stove running loose ... too much for me at least !
Thanks again fot letting us hang around the woodstove and watch you work !!!
Hi Keith, thanks for the reply, I can see the advantage for a stepped shaft. I will watch the following videos soon. I am impressed with your calm, clear commentary, I would get frustrated to stop and explain out loud all the time, it is good for your subscribers that you have the spare capacity to do so. Thanks Sam.
Enjoying the video Keith as well as the odd 'side trips' outside the shop - Thanks !
We are addicted to your videos... Anxiously awaiting Part Three!
Heating that ring until it dropped right off was the coolest trick that I've ever seen! I would have though that the heat would have transferred through to the shaft before it enlarged enough to fall right off. Pretty cool Keith!
Blue sky...now that is a nice concept! We had the sky all overcast and grey since christmas.....
Keith
Another great set of videos. Your little aside about changing out a cam roller bearing on the steady rest has helped me as I'm modifying my steady rest from plain bronze fingers to bearings and was not aware cam rollers existed as I was planning on buying bearings and making the shafts. Yet again your videos have taught me something very useful! . Thanks for all the very educational videos. I now have lots of my friends addicted to your channel up her in Canada!!. Sincerely, Paul
I may have missed you mention one of THE most important reasons to keep the shop temp/humidity as constant as possible ---> Condensation!! At least once a season - and usually excited to do some machine (or, Scooter!) time in the Sunshine - I miss or forget about an abrupt outside temperature change and hit the garage door "Open" button. I get to spend the next hour or so with some 3M pads, paper towels and WD-40 on the cold cast iron.
REALLY appreciate the vids Keith!! Gracias! Jim / Ohio
Excellent video. I'm learning stuff I never imagined. Now hurry up with the next vid. This waiting stuff is driving me nuts. It's worse than waiting for the next Harry Potter movie.
I Don't see such big work pieces so often my lath @work only has 600 mm travel in Z and most times I get to turn stainless steel, and the insert we use last about 60-120 min in cutting action (SECO inserts and depending on the material).
I'm always happy to watch work like this can't wait for the rest of the videos :D keep up the good work!
Excellent video: camera angles, lighting and focus.
After a slight tap and some more heat-- plop! Love it. Genius thinking about that ring having significance in the whole scheme of things. You, friend, have got "IT" if you know what I mean.
Frank
I'm surprised you had to get the blue wrench out to get that cam bearing out of the steady rest, but as you said cheapie allen screw. I think that is the first time I've seen in your vids using a hacksaw to complete the cut, your explanation makes sense not worth the risk to go all the way. Nice detective work on the shaft bearing collar. When the ring dropped to reveal the radius on the shaft just as you described earlier without seeing it first, great!
Nice work Keith!
I loaded it funky last night and it didn't complete so I started it over this morning, went fine should be full size as usual!
There was a reduced diameter at both ends and I like doing it that way because it’s in position to face and center drill for next operation of turning the diameter down on the ends. Thanks for the comment! ;{)---
Oh, I like them heavy duty projects of yours - wish they were mine !
Thanks for the fast reply. I wouldn't be using them as often as you so those size cylinders should last a while. keep up the good work :)
Hi Keith, I thought I had a good workshop but yours is the best, I am in to model engineering...It's a pleasure watching your videos
If I wasn't going to be welding and having to worry about distortion, I would have machined it between centers but I was able to hog more off faster in the chuck! Thanks for the comment. ;{)----
That was amazing how you knew that ring would just fall off after it expanded. Good stuff! I learned something!
You should consider building an outdoor wood-fired boiler for your shop and your home. Get an old oil tank for your firebox and some copper for water coils. You need circulating pumps, some pex tubing, radiators or baseboard heaters for inside. You could buy one ready-made but they're pretty pricey. There are a few TH-cam vids about making your own. Crafty guy like you should be able to whip up a winning unit. Firewood doesn't seem to be a problem. Good luck!
This man is a GENIUS. I wish I could be his student.
One thing I love about your vids is the fact that most jobs have problems that aren't necessarily anything to do with the actual project at hand..LOL.. In my thirty plus years in the trade it's always something.. It's refreshing that you do show these things and don't necessarily edit it out.. Sometimes it's the challenge that makes it interesting.. Gives us something to bitch about.
You make some of this stuff look like magic. I mean I know generally what's happening and why but you just seem to be able to get theory to work in real life without breaking an undue sweat.
Hi Keith Another great Video. Thanks. Charlie
Most serious turning vid yet, thanks! Good strategy finishing by hacksaw, parting 4.3" diameter! Way too hot at 82--a California thing? My shop cools to ambient during week while away at real work so handles are cold 'till Sunday. Will try green wood to extend burn time Fri and Sat evenings! 0.002" over 37" on rough cut diameter--I'd be happy with that on a finish cut! Nice roller cam steady design, brass tips on mine suck for fine work and are not radiused correctly for small diameters.
Excellent vids! It takes special talent to work and talk through a camera! Thanks!
better than watching TV any day.
Radiant floor heat in a concrete slab is like heaven, I hear. Gotta insulate your slab. 6X6 remesh with pex tubing zip tied to the grid. If you go this way then your shop will keep the steel & iron warm overnight, no problem! I plan on doing this pretty soon after I move to my country land. I'm gonna do it back in the woods. Planning & Zoning can kiss my ass.
We need more log-splitting videos!
Sweet job, my steady rest started life by being a good size pipe vise which gave me a good start.
Rollers I used Detroit Diesel cam followers (lifters) which are heavy duty precision rollers.
Dude your a Legend.....I can tell you know your business, You remind me of an old Italian Man who did machinist work in California he has since passed away from cancer a year back but he was so much like you and how he explained things ....thank you for the Video's
I really enjoyed this video, as already stated. The camera work and editting are really good--almost as if you have a production crew. Fast forwarding through the mundane processes is great: takes a bite out of the overall time and moves the content. But the end of the vids leaves me with withdrawals!!!
Similar setup with the wood stove and the lathe and mill close by. I have to agree it takes for ever to get the tools warm again once you let the fire go out.
Thank you Keith!
Love the vid's
Keep up the good work
You are a brave man parting off like that
Great video as usual.
Keith your a man after my own hart I have a 93 dodge Diesel 4X4. Dodge all the way!
Keith when parting how come you dont relive your cut then the blade wont bind ?
How come the nut on your tail stock clamp is a Left hand thread???
Now is the time to build a new steady rest this job Warrants it
you will get caught with out one day and maybe soon . West Coast Canada !! Good work Keep them coming
No, I pretty much do all the part offs with the straight in carriage feed, manually the rear tracer feed angle is about 30 deg's ;{)-----
My all time favorite is the HBM, Horizontal Boring Machine.;{)----
Heat it up and have it drop right off? Ya, right. And then you did it. Too cool. I need a good torch.
Fantastic videos...
Thanks for posting this series Keith, very awesome. Would turning the whole work between centers (dog, "constant face turning" setup, etc) be of any benefit on this job? Could you avoid flipping the work end for end?
Fresh cut not fully dried or seasoned! I have a short metal stack on the stove and don’t build up with tars and saps build ups, like on longer runs and brick or mason linings. ;{)---
tnx, I will see if I can get one 2nd hand, it makes great vids and a huge better quality than my phone camera or my old sony handicam.
awesome Keith, thanks a lot! :] you're the best, wish i had your knowledge! :]
Another great video Keith. Regarding your steady, instead of taking the cam followers out to put on the other side, an alternative may be to simply make the arms symmetrical (if they aren't already), and rotate them 180 degrees so the bearings are on the other side. On mine they're symmetrical like that and it's much faster.
Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching. ;{)-----
I believe they are considered size #4 cylinders and around the shop, average job here and there last about a month, if I was fitting and cutting like steel construction, I’ve gone through a full set in two days. ;{)---
I am no expert and am self taught. I often turn shafts this size or a little bigger. I was interested to watch you switch end to end several times and then part off the spare inch or so. I leave the spare in the chuck, turn the shaft and part off with the steady next to the chuck and finish with a hacksaw just like you! Is there an advantage to swapping end to end that I'm missing? Lovely tidy workshop, good video too!
I really enjoy your videos, you're a talented guy
BiffBallb
Excellent video Keith!
Angryyank
I like what I see--you know your material and your feeds and speeds. Your understanding of the work to be done. But you could use better eye protection. I'm also a Machinist with many years of working the trade, where I've seen many happenings with safety procedures! Other than that--Great job of showing what you do--I too like the old equipment, where we still feel part of the job. And yep I'm retired!!
if you were an automotive mechanic you would be a master tech !!!!!!!
Hey Keith love your videos! Flipping that shaft end for end so many times is a lot of work. I learned very fast in a job shop that no two machinists will run a job exactly the same, but i can't help but ask. Why not run that shaft between centers? Or use shim stock and flip it only once? Also I would be a bit nervous running that live center with that size shaft. A little too small for me. Thank you for your videos!!!!!
Keith ! You have a Great Ste up there, with your house and HEATED workshop, know what you mean about warm handles !!
great videos keep em' coming!
maybe tomorrow, with what I got going on right now only able to edit about 30 min's per day! ;{)---
My sister in law calls it the Florida room! I can open the door and get fresh air any time, also push the air into the other section which has no heat! I want warm handles and no jackets… ;{)---
I think it may be a concern if you were maximizing tool life and production speed to really fine tune, operation, it would pay to program the progressive adjustments. I kind of watch the chip color and feel the tool pressure of hand feeding, adjusting only the feed rate to compensate for the difference in SFPM. The Sandvik system is the most forgiving to older machines than any others! My Opinion, for the last twenty years! ;{)---
I was wondering about that because normally you don't want to burn green wood because of the creosote buildup and chimney fire hazard.
i can understand the warm harndles and light clothing but DAMN!
when is the next episode?
No bed protector when hack sawing? Double boost John will be going bezerk at his screen! Great series Keith, learning loads. Tom.
Just wondering, whats you're favorite machine tool? I am an apprentice machinist in western Canada and my personal favorite is the lathe. Raw power yet precision.
When the ring fell off the part after heating, blew my mind haha
The feed on the tracer unit, you can see in action in my 'Trace It' video! ;{)---
It’s only a cheap butt wooden shack, not much of even a foundation, very little insulation and does fluctuates a bit during the day with some traffic in and out. The trick is to create enough heat within the metal heap to keep until morning! ;{)---
Do you have your cut off tool on center or just below.If below how much and thanks for making awsome videos.
I watched the parting process waiting for the explosion. Parting on my lathe must be done at the lowest speed with everything locked tight then flooded with coolant and with a deliberate but steady infeed. Usually any chatter is a split second warning for when the tool will explode in a mighty bang. I tend to only part mild steel and aluminum, any chrome moly or stainless just puts too much stress on the machine. I'll part it on the band saw, or with a hack saw or sawzall. Your machine is indeed strong and true to be able to part high alloy at 400rpm.
Hi Keith. Love watching your vids. Real good quality too. I was wondering why you bothered parting the end of this bar and as you say, risking the blade and tip. I think I would have surfaced off the excess. Also, do you ever use the rear toolpost for parting off?
Most of this video was shot with my Canon VIXia HF R30 ;{)---
What does the vertical crank on the back of your cross-slide next to your backside cutoff tool control? Great videos BTW!
Keith, excellent video. Where do you get the rollers for the steady rest?
Eric
yeah after i watched it in 480 i refreshed the page and i thas the hd sizes now
If it stays in the box for ever, and if you put it to the wrong use or drop it real quick. I have had some last for a couple weeks before having to index them!
;{)---
WAtching you unstick a bolt I was wondering if you could use a little bit of silver. I make Silver Series lubricants . The silver additive I make is about 5% silver and does wonders for bolts so they do not stick. I will send you a little bottle if interested. Ron
Okay, your steady rest is a ball bearing-type... Just watched ~14:00 and now it's clear :-)
The bottom rollers on the steady-rest should have a tension on them equal to the weight of the shaft. Not just to the point of "stop rotating."
I miss the snow ad cold over there here in Australia we have been 90 - 106 and my air con stays on around the 75 mark and I love it. I have been wanting to ask I paid for some aluminum round stock 4" OK and 4" long and it costs $34 US does sound about right for you guys.?
6061 4" diameter x 6" long at MC Master Carr is $50 ;{)-----
Does keeping the shop at a steady , even temperature have any positive effect on the dimensional stability of the equipment and the materials ?
I know I , personally am much hapier when I can stay warm . That may or may not have a positive effect on the quality of workmanship .
Thanks ,
Wyr
God bless
The one key part though is having an understanding town LOL! My buddy going to help me put in radiant floor heat when I redo the footings and floor, it will be able to run through the wood stove if desired! Good comment! ;{)---
Hi Kieth. Can you please tell me what size your Oxy Acetylene cylinders are and approximately how long they last for on average with the tips and nozzles you use? I'm looking at sizing up my cylinders next time they empty. Thanks
When I see the down side to cold it makes living in Yuma, AZ a bit more tolerable. It is only 108° today. The shop is air conditioned.
Gordon
Keith,
33:08 would have been a great spot to cut this video, to be continued........Oh man, the suspense is killing me.....
I knew that cast iron chips are good for and bring out brilliant colors in rose bushes but didn't think alloy steel was good for any vegetation. ;{)---
Istill can't understand why there was such a huge gap in the original parts, .1 ins far out considering the weight and the possible harmonics in the machine it certainly explains the fatigue cracking due to flex inside where the flanges were welded. Personally a fridge fit and weld then LPG ie propane torch stress relieve the welds. That beaver should outlast the original machine.
how long does an positive insert last?
it isn't just the cold for creature comfort but frost will form on metal surfaces leading to rust!!....but you knew that
do you throw away the turnings or scrap them?
any reason that the best size is 480p. taking to long to upload the hd versions?
Do you have a source and part number for your cam roller bearings on the steady rest?
What kind of raw material used
Hi Keith, I'm here watching and learning from your videos, thanks for sharing. I would like to ask you a question. Could you tell us what you think of the change to the metric system in USA. (The metric system is legal in the US since 1866)
I personally REALLY dislike the metric sys....yeah I know simpler math and all but after years of experience you just don't get your head around unfamiliar units of measure as good as feet and inches....leading to mistakes
aaah for the slower burn
Some chips go to the transfer station and some go the scrapman! ;{)---
What kind of camera do you use ?
They're sure as heck not Unbrako or Holo-Krome cap screws !
whats green wood?
I used 8620 on that shaft! ;{)---
Action Bearing in the Boston area, MSC and MC Master Carr olso carry them for a bit more $'s ;{)---
Oh, I forgot ... 28° celsius on the outer wall ... aren't you working ;-)) ... it's like a hot ball room with a stove running loose ... too much for me at least !