DCC and Sound For Your LifeLike E-units (184)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 เม.ย. 2021
- For at least the last 2 years folks have been asking me to do a video on installing DCC and sound in LifeLike E-units so here you go. This is a long video mainly due to all the wires that need to be run for the lights and power pickup. But that is to be expected with these "legacy" locomotive models produced before manufacturers were installing sockets for DCC let along decoders. I decided to use a Decoder Buddy Mini circuit board so I could experiment with different decoder brands but it also tends to actually make the installation easier. So sit back with a cup of something and enjoy the project, and you may want to even watch it in two sittings. To check out my other videos on installing LEDs, using Decoder Buddies, repairing axle gears, and the TCS dual prime mover decoder follow the links provided in this video.
Here are some links to websites for various materials mentioned. Note that many are available at local stores or from Amazon or eBay sellers.
Pre-wired LEDs on eBay www.ebay.com/itm/L0805GW-20pc...
Misc LEDS from Streamlined Backshop www.sbs4dcc.com
LEDs fro Richmond Controls www.richmondcontrols.com
Misc electronics www.allelectronics.com
Misc LEDs, small circuit boards, SMD resistors, Kapton tape www.ngineering.com
Wiring harnesses, Kapton tape www.tcsdcc.com
Other misc items available at local hobby shops, eBay, Amazon, hardware stores
Uhu tac putty
Zap Zip Kicker
Testors Clear Parts Cement
Locktite CA Gel
Makeup microbrush - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
I love those old Life Like E-units. Pretty much stock Athearn drive, which I am good at repairing. I've replaced many broken axle gears.
I recently discovered a new way to fix them when I painted a PA unit and could not fond replacements. I soaked the gears in alcohol and washed them with soapy water. Imdid the same to the wheel/axle assemblies. Then I applied my Loctite gel super glue inside the gear and on the axles, inserted them and quickly set the spacing. Once the glue dried they seem as good as new. The glue even works its way into the crack and holds it together. So far no failures. I need to update the gear repair video.
Ditto to programming this decoder. I always enjoy your videos as I watch your procedures closely. Lots of good techniques. Thanks
Nice conversion Larry. One thing I do to confirm the polarity and direction of the motor is to connect a 9 volt battery to the motor leads. Since the polarity of the battery is known it is a definite confirmation of the motor polarity and direction.
I recently installed LokSound 5 21-pin decoder and a Decoder Buddy Mini in an Atlas GE B30-7 that I converted from QSI. I also installed a ESU Power Pack as well since the club I run on has dead spots. The result was a complete success.
I recently did a Proto 2000 E8A but only with a Digitrax non sound decoder that I had in my parts box. I may replace it with a sound unit. This was a good video and will help if I do it
Thanks for a very informative video. I would love to learn about programming as you mentioned.
Cool stuff.
Show the world how to add the led settings for the Mars light. It is awesome.
Nice work, Larry.
Would love to see the decoder video on the loc programmer.
Really enjoy your teaching style. So helpful!
Excellent video for beginners!
This was very useful. I have 3 of the E8's converted to DCC and now I know how to go the next step with sound.
Thank you for another great video! PLEASE make a video on programming.
Another great decoder install. The Decoder Buddy Mini really makes it easy. I have one that I am working on using a TCS WOW BAC motherboard. (And decoder) I am also looking to light the number boards with some SMD LED's too.
I think the next one I do will be with a decoder buddy though.
I would love to see the video you was talking about making of programing the engine. Thanks.
you prolly dont give a shit but if you guys are bored like me during the covid times then you can watch all the latest series on instaflixxer. Have been binge watching with my gf for the last couple of weeks xD
@Sullivan Travis Yea, I have been using InstaFlixxer for years myself :)
During the lube phase pay particular attention to the gearbox lube as it sometimes hardens up anything that hasn't run in 20 years will fit that category
Thanks for the tips & tricks And Id SURE like to follow ya thru the win.10.Loc sound set up Larry thanks again
I would enjoy the programming video
I enjoyed and appreciated the very fine installation demonstration very much! Thank You! I am a little embarrassed because my directions did not cover the A6 and A10 pads well. First I suspect that you had to move the Mars light wire to either A0F, A1 or A2 to make the Mars light respond. There are only 4 powered outputs on the Mini at this time. The A6 and A10 pads are for the third wire or control wire of an ESU Power Pack. The A6 pad is for the LokSound 4 decoder and is controlled by A6. The A10 pad is for the LokSound 5 and is controlled by A10. The U+ and GND pads are used for power and ground on all stay alives! Hope this helps! Again, thanks for the great demonstration!
Actually is was my fault Nick as I managed to lose the instructions that came with that particular board and of course it was different from the others I have. It was an easy fix to simply move the wire from A6 to A1 and then swap them on the function map. Using the Decoder Buddy is so much easier than dealing with a lot more wires on a regular hardwired decoder.
tanks for the detailed process , am interested in seeing the loksound setting process, thanks
Nice vid. I'd be interested in a video about Loksound CV setting, even though I model in N scale and use DecoderPro. I think enough information would be usable to be a good watch.
Great video; a programming video would be a good addition since programming is the exact same for all scales. looking forward for more videos on your gas works project.
Aloha from Hawaii
Hi, great video, I have all E-types without sound sofar. Please put up 2nd video with programmer settings. I would have used the 23 or 28mm ESU speaker with enclosure, these are far superior to those sugarcubes, since there is enough space. I even built a custum enclosure 4mm high for a little steamer and it makes a world of difference. Thanks
yep i would like to see the programming video also
Thanks Larry, I have a few Life-likes, 🐾🚂 BearCreek RR Cov. KY. I would like too see the addition in programing.
I would like it if you did a video on programming this decoder. Thanks
Yes I am interested in seeing you program the engine on the lok programmer.
Great video ,I would also interested in a lokprogrammer video.
I would also like to see the programming video
I would definitely like to see how you use the computer to program the different settings.
Thank you. Great informative videos. Winston Salem North Carolina 2023.
If you go to my channel page there is an entire section with DecoderPro videos showing how to use it to program decoders and do other things.
Great video, interested in programming sound
@ModelRailroading you need a Third-Hand-type device! There are some pretty good ones available from Micro-Mark
Great video Larry. I appreciate you showing how to fit and add both DCC and sound to an engine that was built as a quiet DC engine - there are still some of us out there!! What checks do you make to ensure the motor is isolated from the frame? I hear that warning all the time, but have never really seen or read a "how-to" - I am guessing the most effective means would be to place the engine on dead track and test continuity from each rail to each motor terminal?
Great video - would love to see how you added the air tanks (torpedo tubes) to the roof of the Proto E8's. I have several that I want to do this to - just haven't figured out the best way.
I used some Detail Associates or Details West air tanks and brass wire for the air lines. Actually a pretty easy job once I found an overhead shot of a loco showing the air lines. I would love to do a video but only about 50 people would watch it. A general hobby video can get up to 50K views, a broad DCC topic can pull in 15K, a narrow focus video will get 5K, and a very narrow one less than 1000. Something as specific as Southern loco details might get 50 or fewer..
Please show a video of how to download the sound file from the ESU website & then uploading that sound file to the USU decoder using a Lokprogrammer. Thanks in advance.
This is the sound I'm looking for:I just received, my Hawthorne BACHMANN d c loco seaboard. I'm looking for this sound you have in yours, plus a few others I. Need to convert to DCC . But looking for definitely this sounds on all my alco/ Baldwin's.. I have already 5 small decoder buddys and 3 larger ones. Wish I could take a picture of it it's definitely worth it... It's like brand new, thanks joe
All these companies produce Alco & Baldwin sound decoders. Soundtraxx and LokSound even provide samples on their websites to listen to. Good luck with your choices.
that was interesting
Larry great video, never seen a decoder buddy before,I have 3 proto 1000 C liners that need decoder,construction is a little different inside, but gives me some ideas
yes I like to see that
Great video. Thanks for sharing that with us. What size SBS sugar cube speaker and which baffle did you use? SBS has 5 different sizes and 18 different baffles. Did you use ESU decoder 58419? Which prime mover did you choose? Perhaps SO761 or SO583? What wire do you use? It is small and flexible yet holds its shape well when bent around curves etc. Thanks again for your videos and in advance for your help with my questions.
I used their 11x15 speaker with the deep cube enclosure. In a lot of models I use the rounded enclosure designed ti fit the inside of a cab roof. The decoder was the basic empty one and I loaded the correct sound package myself. I bought a bundle of decoder wires from Digitrax and use those as well as leftovers from 27 years of installations.
@@TheDCCGuy Thank you. I appreciate your help and the additional information.
Great job! Could you possibly post a parts list for this? Thanks.
Any info on programing is helpful to any scale. Thanks!
Hi there. Love your stuff! Thanks for all the videos. The front red truck wire goes to top of motor and on to rear of E8. I can't see any reason not to use the wires as they are? Front red to motor, back red to motor? Also, what wire stripper would/do you recommend for the DCC wire? Thanks again, Jack
The factory in China seems to have used whatever color wires were handy. I use the cheap strippers from All Electronics but there are others I have shown in my tools videos and a quick search on Amazon will give you a choice of many across a range of prices.
Great video on how to install a decoder. Do you have a video on how to add and install a keep alive to that decoder for the Proto 2000 E-8?
I have done a number of installs before that included keep alives but with over 250 videos on here I am afraid I cannot remember specifics of each.
Thanks for the video making this installation. I mentioned this before and you said you were planning to do one. I have a slew of these units myself - E-6, 7, 8-9s As and Bs all in Southern both black and white plus the green scheme too and wanted to convert some to DCC. I wondered how to cram all that was needed inside with this big weight as a hindrance. With your technique, it seems you might be able to get two of those sugar cubes in there side by side. One observation though, From my angle, this does not seem to be a Mars light. It appears constant to me.
Be patient grasshopper. As I said in the video I had not done the programming as of that time necessary to create the Mars light effect. I did it last night and it looks good. Also as it turned out all those wires got in the way of the fan bases and popped a couple. So I ended up moving the wires to the each side on the top of that weight and also carved away the plastic under the winterization cover. I’ll mention this stuff and more in the followup video on programming. I also plan another video comparing the sound from a LokSound, Soundtraxx, and WOWSound decoder.
@@TheDCCGuy When I mentioned two speakers, I meant wiring them in series. Also, could I have more info on the Lok Sound decoder?
There really isn’t that much to tell, it is a standard blank 21 pin v5 decoder. If you order one from a dealer make sure to ask them to load the sound package for you unless you have a LokProgrammer and want to do it yourself. Also you might want to wait as I plan to do a followup video using the SoundTraxax and WOWSound versions of the E-unit sound package. With respect to using 2 speakers, you might want to rethink that. I dod that with the E6 I showed in the beginning of the video and the sound was so loud I am considering pulling one of them out! Using 2 speakers will not get you more bass, just more volume and unless you are operating at a train show the extra volume translates into more noise. Remember too that using 2 speakers will mean almost 2 watts and some decoders may not support that so check first, although many now have 2 watt audio output.
@@TheDCCGuy Thanks, I will wait since most of the decoders I have installed are SoundTraxx and I am more familiar with them.
I look forward to your comparison video. I have installed 1 TCS WOW and several of an off brand in this locomotive.
Very informative and explanatory presentations. I have many locomotives which I would like to convert to DCC some being as old as 50 or more years old .
One in particular is a Fleischmann PA-2 which I would really like to convert. Do you have any tips or info on the possibilities of doing this and the difficulties I might encounter.
Probably the biggest potential problem will be the motor and I have no idea what it has in it. You’ll need to get it running well on a DC track first, check it over for cracked plastic gears, etc., before trying a conversion. You’ll want to test the stall current to find out what size decoder you will need. Also the permanent magnets in the motor may have degraded over time so the motor itself may not be very strong and need replacing. It likely will be an old open frame 3 pole motor.
@@TheDCCGuy thanks for the reply, much appreciated.
Will check out all those points mentioned and let you know the results in due course.
Larry, at 26:33 you mention having super-glued the SMD LED to the back of the clear vertical lens plate. Is it OK to have super-glue or CA get on the LED itself or did you somehow glue it on that back surface without any super glue actually getting on the yellow speck of the LED itself? Thanks.
It never has been a problem for me. More recently I have been use Uhu black tack putty to hold them in place. I showed that in some other videos.
@@TheDCCGuy Thanks Larry.
I'm in the process of installing Soundtraxx DCC sound in my first E-8 and it's going well thanks to your video but I have one rather unrelated question. My E units are so old they came with NMRA horn-hook couplers. Would you happen to remember which Kaydees fit these units?
I am pretty sure I used #5 on the rear however up front you need long shanks to clear the pilot. I am not all that happy with the long shanked Bachmann ones I tried so I need to make some measurements and special order some that will be long enough but not too long.
@@TheDCCGuy Here's an FYI that worked on my Life-Like Proto 2000 E-8. I contacted Kaydee and asked and the info they sent was pretty much nonsense. After trying several different things I got this to work for me and the couplers are the correct height,. On the front, I used a #144 (offset) Kaydee mounted on the bottom of the shaft using a #252 gearbox. This is a short shaft coupler but it does clear the pilot on mine. A regular length 140 series coupler may be better if you have a different pilot. On the rear, I used a #145 (offset) coupler with a #252 gearbox mounted on top of the shaft. Hope this helps.
Hi, I'm 12 years old, and I have been following your channel for a long time. I love model railroading, and I've learned so much from your channel. I'm on my Mom's user right now so that I can comment. I 'm sorry that I can't subscribe (because I don't have a TH-cam account). I love your channel!
Question: Does the Digitrax SDH187MT HO Scale Series 7 Sound Decoder work with the Decoder Buddy Mini?
This is from NixTrainz website (nicknixtrainz.com)
Popular 21-pin decoders from ESU, SoundTraxx, TCS, Digitrax, and NCE easily fit in Decoder Buddy‘s 21-pin socket
Thank you! @@TheDCCGuy
Just wondering when making the platform for the decoder buddy to set upon, why didn't you make the platform a little narrower to fit into the recess on the frame and then use the existing screw holes to attach rather than gluing the platform?
Just fit better that way. The recessed ledge in there is a bit narrow.
Larry how about a video of this install in n scale?
Would an ESU PowerPack 54671 work with this decoder and Decoder Buddy Mini? Have you found these E8 ‘s work OK without them? Thanks.
The PowerPaxks are designed by ESU for use with LokPilot and LokSound decoders and actually are the only stay alives that do not violate their warranty. They are compatible with the Decoder Buddy boards. I generally do not use stay alives in large diesel, especially 6 axle types like these. I mainly reserve them for small diesel switchers (if they fit) and small steam locos. I have found that some brass diesels like my PAs need them as well.
@@TheDCCGuy Thanks Larry. I appreciate your prompt, helpful, and informative replies. Keep up the great videos too. They're great.
Nice video. Would love to see fine tuning of decoder. Question - when you glue on the styrene shelf to mount the decoder buddy, speaker & decoder, does that prevent you from accessing & servicing the the gear box to the underlying truck ?
It would not interfere with the gears since they are accessed from the bottom of the truck. And the grease will be transferred through the gear train up to the worm gear in the truck tower. The only problem is with oiling the bearings and once every decade should take care of that. I will just slide a knife blade in there and pop the styrene platform loose for that.
@@TheDCCGuy Thanks for getting back so quickly - I understand your solution. One more question -- I have several of these LifeLike P2K E-8/9's from the early days which are still mint in their original boxes which I need to convert to DCC/Sound. I noticed that you did not have to isolate the motor from the frame before you did this conversion. Is this not necessary in these LifeLike E-8/9 early models ? I will be checking all the gears.
For some reason these locos have an isolated motor even though they do not have a DCC socket. The later models, E6, E7, PA all have a circuit board with and 8-pin connector so definitely should be safe. I think the reason the E8s were made this way was because they directly powered the motor with wires from the truck and the circuit board.
Your video shows a Decoder Buddy Tiny, not a Decoder Buddy Mini although you describe using a Mini. Which is correct ? I went onto the NixTrains website and they describe the features on the Mini Buddy which includes the proper resistors on it and a 21 pin plug. I assume I should order the Mini Buddy not the Tiny Buddy. Any other comments you might have ?
The name Tony was only applied to the first batch and right away Nick changed it to the Mini so Tiny is only on that first version. Even with those labeled Tiny the packaging says Mini. Be aware that the pads labeled A6 & A10 are reserved for the white wire on 3 wire stay alives used with LokSound decoders. I had to move my wire once I found that out.
Using the decoder buddy mini and a soundtrazz TSU2 21 pin decoder where would you connect a TCS KA2 keep alive?
There are solder pads on the board for attaching the KA wires.
My question is did u have to take out the motor and put tape on the bottom. Or u don't have to u never did say for dcc
No these are DCC compatible out of the box and some even have 8 pin sockets.
So, DCC guy , I have several DC nice steam engines and some and f40ph and 42's and alcos , RS jeeze a bunch can I use them all in the DCC buddy as what your doing? Except for steam I'm sure they have there own but if I tell you what I'm going to start with will you help me find the right ones? Thanks joe ... Great job as always.. you make it look so easy...
The Decoder Buddy is really made to be used with diesels but could be put in a tender I suppose. Also don’t overlook the standard rectangular decoder board that is a direct replacement fir the circuit board in Athearn, Atlas, Bowser, and many other locos.
I've bought some by mistake or there mistake online where they said spectrum Amtrak diesel f40ph was DCC ready. Well not there DC and trying to take them back as one was $88. I can get it through weather's at $109. DCC ready so Im. Sending that back as she pulled a sight up saying it was all emd's I knew it was fishy anyway but I can use the decoder buddy's for them? I know this is a lot to ask but I have nobody to help me so Ok if I show a picture of my main DC trains I want to decoder from DC to DCC can you steer me in the right direction of what I need to buy for speed and sound decoders?¿?? I need help , please, thank you Larry..., Joe ps or I can send them to you and give me a price for you to do them as your very good at what you are doing..l joe
@@TheDCCGuy yes I'm looking in the future for the steams I have a few DC ones that are older and built solid and tenders as I'm sure that's where the board and speakers could fit.. I'm aware of that , thank you those are my last projects I have a couple of DCC steam's one is awesome I bought used 4 years ago and working great as I'm not in a rush.. but my other diesel's are what I want to get done now . I can't remember some of the train styles I have I'm going through them now as I lost my mom and getting back into this 4 years ago. I forgot Alot lol thanks , joe
I’d also like to see the programming of the loco. Does the E-EA/1/3 have the same spacing inside for the new board/decoder as the E9? Or can the same models be used? Pardon please if I ask dumb questions as I’m new to the insides of any locomotives.
LifeLike/Walthers did not make an EA. Which loco are you asking about?
I’m looking for any of these models, though I’d prefer one with sound already added. I don’t have the steadiest hands but I did but a soldering iron expecting I might have to install sound from scratch if necessary. I have been using your videos to get some understanding of what I needed to know and what resources I needed to do the job if necessary.
I am pretty sure that they have been made with sound decoders although they may not be in production right now. Check with your hobby shop and/or the Walthers catalog and if they are not currently available start keeping an eye out on eBay, good luck.
Does the mars light not flash on this unit, I just bought the same loco and will be doing the same instal you just did.
Mars lights did not flash all the time. They were mainly used when approaching a crossing or a station, or in an emergency situation. Of course each railroad had their own rules. Most decoders allow you to program the light function with various effects such as a Mars light and in some you can tie that to things like when a horn is blown at a crossing or when the emergency button is pushed in addition to simply turning the function on.
Will I need be able to use this decoder with factory sound , or will I need to have it programmed ?
Ok, some of the decoders such as SoundTraxx and TCS WOWSound come with the sound files already installed. LokSound decoders come without the specific sound package and you MUST either ask the retailer to load the correct sounds for you or do it yourself which requires a special LokProgrammer interface. In all cases you will need to change things like the address and volume settings.
I think I my be wrong on the wire thing:)
Could you share the model number of the decoder you used?
What gauge wire are you using? ty
What are you referring to, I use a lot of different gauges for different jobs.
I recently purchased a Locsound 58429 decoder. It has 2 wires coming out from the corner by the pin area. I don’t know what they’re for . Possibly ground wires ? Can you help ? Thanks
What color are they and don’t the instructions say what they are? To my recollection I have never gotten a 21 pin LokSound decoder with wires attached. Since there are only 2 and if they are both brown they may be speaker wires but you need to download the decoder manual,and check the pin assignments to be sure. Who did you buy it from?
@@TheDCCGuy the wires are bare and they’re on the left side of the decoder. I’m not sure how to download the manual and see nothing in the instructions about the wires. Can I send a pic to you ?
They’re on the end of the decoder , not the side. The decoder looks identical to the one you used for the conversion on the LifeLike E-6 .
I’m using a Decoder Mini Buddy.
Excuse me. After further examination I see that these wires are indeed brown in color. Very small .
Did you say the decoder buddy was a "mini"?
Yes
@@TheDCCGuy Thank you so much. I've been watching your videos for some time. I really enjoy them.
Can you do a video on the Ngineering campfire.
Let me see what I can do. I have a hobo camp on the Piedmont Souther with a static campfire and adding a flickering effect might add some interest. It also may be possible to use an NCE Light-It or Illuminator and and orange LED to creat the same effect.
@@TheDCCGuy Thank you would be great.
I just looked over the Light-It instructions and I can fire up a red and a yellow or orange and yellow LED with different flash rates and create a flicker effect. I will give it a try tomorrow and see how convincing various flicker rates are.
@@TheDCCGuy 👍 sounds like a plan to me.
Name of seller for led bulbs.
As I’ve said many times I don’t post specific sources since Amazon and ebay sellers change every week or two. So your best bet is do a search for the product and get your best deal.
🎁🎁🎁🎁🎁🎁🎁🎁🎁🎁🎁🎁🎁🎁🎁🎁🎁🎁💝💝💝💝💝💝
What Decoder , and Buddy do I need for this ?
Decoder Buddy Mini and your choice of 21 pin decoder.
@@TheDCCGuy I used the same as you in the video. Thanks for your demos. I love watching. 🚂👍
Thank you for the help you’ve provided. I will admit ,at times it gets a little too technical for me but you’re more than helpful .I’m trying to convert to DCC on a Lifelike E-7 . Id like to send a pic on my progress and see if I’m on track but am still trying to figure it out .
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