How To Install a Locking Strip Type Windshield Seal
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 เม.ย. 2018
- Danny Agosta walks you through how to install a locking strip type windshield seal on a 1954 Chrysler New Yorker 4 door Sedan.
___________________________________________
Materials used in this video:
70-1805-50 Windshield Gasket Set
www.steelerubber.com/windshie...
94-0110-00 - Scraper/Tuck Tool
www.steelerubber.com/scraper-...
94-0102-94 - All Purpose Tool
www.steelerubber.com/all-purp...
___________________________________________
Search by year/make/model to find the right parts for your ride here: www.steelerubber.com/automotive
Contact Us:
Email: cars@steelerubber.com
Phone: 800-650-5135
___________________________________________
Follow us on Social Media!
/ steelerubberproducts
/ steelerubber
www.carbuffnetwork.com/manufa...
#steelerubber #lockingstrip #windshieldseal - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
![[UNCUT] ที่นี่ที่แรก ปู - หาญส์ พูดถึงมหากาพย์หนี้สิ้น I คนดังนั่งเคลียร์ I 10 ก.ค.67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/KDNA9DZ0p4U/mqdefault.jpg)
got one on my 1980 Jeep j10 - nice vid thanks for the detail shots
Thank you for watching!
Just thought I check in to see if you've had a chance to see my question below. Yours in wonderment.
Awesome thank you!
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
I had to install a shattered windscreen with really hard seals like this. It took hours and I got cut so much. The locking strip is still in progress 1 week later. (It was for a decorational car, the broken windscreen was a choice)
I need to find the splice connector cover that would fit over a 5/8" wide strip please and will buy right now. Someone decided to steal mine. Thank you.
Thanks for the good information. Much appreciated. I have a 67 4-door Plymouth Valiant with the one-year locking strip. I have the front and rear rubber gaskets and I have all of NOS locking strips that I've collected over the years. For the windshield and any locking strip window, you say put the gasket on the car first, then the glass into the gasket, then insert the locking strip. I read on a Mopar page that you can't do that with the rear glass. Is that true? If so is it due to the shape of the glass? Please let me know your thoughts. Thanks again! Also I see in the comments, below, that sealant isn't recommended between the glass and gasket, just wanna confirm. Thanks.
Hey there, great question! We reached out our friends at a local shop for additional advice for this question and they had the same thoughts that we did. We have never seen a locking strip style gasket be installed onto the glass first, neither had our friends at the shop we reached out to. They had not installed a windshield on your specific year, make, and model vehicle, however, they had on 100s on Mopars of that era.
We would recommend installing the gasket on the body of the vehicle first, then the glass, and then the locking strip. And you are correct, sealant is not needed in between the glass and gasket, however, you can use that if you wish. It is not required for installation.
Please let us know if you have any further questions. If you run into any snags or hold ups during installation, please feel free to call us at 800-447-0849, that will be a much quicker way for us to communicate. Thank you so much for watching!
@@SteeleRubberProducts Beautiful stuff. I appreciate the thorough response. Very helpful. Are there any other bedding and glazing compounds other than 3M bedding and glazing that you've had success with? I'm having trouble sourcing the 3M product in Ireland. I would prefer not to use any sealant between the gasket and glass, I'd be a cleaner job, all around. But If I had to, due to detecting a leak or something, what sealant would you recommend? Thanks again.
@@haroldwolk4508 you are very welcome!
As for the sealant, unfortunately 3M has discontinued their bedding & glazing compound. However, CRL Black Windshield & Body Sealant is a great alternative that we now offer in it's place. Just like the 3M bedding compound, this product is non-hardening and creates a watertight seal for windshield/window gaskets. I will attach a link here to that product on our website: www.steelerubber.com/bedding-and-glazing-compound-96-8509-96. We're happy to have been able to help you out, best of luck with your installation! 😀
@@SteeleRubberProducts Thanks for the information regarding 3M, etc.. You've been a great help. You're video with the door weatherstripping w/pins was very helpful too ... regarding the glue or not to glue question. I'll be in touch if I have any other questions.
I'm going to install new weather seal for a 66 Dart soon after I get the ordered seal. I'm a little surprised that you install the seal onto the body first and then work the windshield in. I always thought you actually install everything outside meaning the seal and the locking strip onto the glass, and then install the whole package onto the body. Some will do the locking strip once glass installed. What you reckon?
Hey there, thank you for the questions! The gasket does go on the body first. If you're using bedding and glazing compound you'll want to put that on first, then the gasket. Then the glass goes into the gasket. Once that's seated nicely you'll install the locking strip into the gasket. The gasket may look too big at first but that's normal for this type of installation. If you have any further questions you can email us at cars@steelerubber.com and one of our specialists will be able to help! Thanks for watching!
@@SteeleRubberProducts Thanks for your answer, which is exactly as per your video instructions. What happens if I install the seal and the locking strip onto the glass, and then install the whole package onto the body? Like we do for Mustangs.
That's how we all do it for the older German and British classics. Why would this be any different?
We're going by what MOPAR tells us. Ford and Chevy puts theirs on the glass first, MOPARS are just not the same. We're not sure what the results will be if you put it on the glass first- we've never done that. We design our parts from factory originals and also suggest the OEM procedures recommended to us.
Hi Steele! I just got a gasket for my 54 dodge pickup windshield and I have some questions- should I butter up the pinch weld with 3M bedding and glazing compound with a rubber glove or am I better off putting a small bead inside the gasket groove?
I see that you want the gasket on the truck first, then do the glass. Is there any reason not to use the string/cord in the glass groove after the gasket is on the pinch weld?
Lastly I am doing this because I am tired of leaks. Should I dry off any soapy water with compressed air and squirt a small bead of compound under the front glass lip as well before installing the lock strip?
Last question- my gasket doesn’t have molded corners it’s just a loop. I test fit it on the glass and it was nice and snug which is good- should I be worried about it falling off the pinch weld while I’m trying to put the glass in? Especially since it will be somewhat lubed by the fresh compound? Maybe some blue tape to hold it on so I can do the job without five helpers?
Thanks!!
Put a small bead of Glazing compound in the pinch weld groove of the rubber .
Lock strip seals go on the body of the truck first. Secure it with masking tape if needed .
Then install the glass into the rubber.
It wouldn’t hurt to add a little Glazing compound behind the lip before installing the lock strip .
If you have any other questions, please let us know.
Thank you for watching!
Thanks so much!
You're welcome! We're happy to help. If you need anymore assistance, just let us know. Good luck with your project!
What glue do you use on the ends of the glass gasket?
If you're asking about bonding 2 ends together, we recommend Loctite Super Bonder 495. You can purchase it on the website here: www.steelerubber.com/super-bonder-3-gr-96-0495-96
I need to install the windshield in a 55 DeSoto.. The seal purchased from Steele has a locking strip. It appears to be a bit small. I talked to one of your sales people and he said you don't know what you are doing. It needs to be roped in. Guaranteed to fit. The service manual says to install the gasket first and work it in. Help me out here fellas.
Thank you for your question. I believe you've spoken to one of our product specialists, Paul, who gave you some detailed instructions. This gasket does install onto the body first, then you work the glass into it. Once the glass fills out the gasket there won't be gaps in the corners anymore. If you have any further questions about this installation, please feel free to reach back out to us and we'll be glad to help you. Thanks for watching and for choosing Steele Rubber Products.
Hi Steele.
Bedding compound? What's this?
Hello, bedding compound is a non-hardening sealer that goes in between the metal frame of the vehicle and the rubber gasket. It acts to fill any small imperfections or pitting in the metal to create a positive seal with the gasket. There are many glass installations that do not use a bedding compound because the car won't really see heavy water, or the metal is very smooth and freshly finished. For a confident seal, it is recommended.
Thank you for watching!
does this apply to most classic cars of the 50's 60's 70's?
Many cars in the 50’s and 60’s did not have locking strips, instead those would use the rope in style which we also have a video for. However most trucks of the 50’s and 60’s had locking strip style gaskets. So the answer is dependent on the term “most”. Thanks for watching!
Any sealant used between the gasket and the glass ?
Hey there, in this video we did not use any sealant but if you prefer to use it there is a clear optical sealant that 3M and Permatex both make. Thanks for watching!
@@SteeleRubberProducts Do you have a link to the sealant you'd recommend between the glass and the gasket? I have the 3M bedding compound for between the body and gasket already but would like the extra protection between the glass and gasket if it is recommended.
@@JustinTDuval Hey Justin, when using a locking gasket such as the one in this video, we don't recommend any additional sealants or adhesives. At one point in the past there was a sealant used in between the glass and gasket, but it has since been discontinued and there really is no need for it. Danny, who has done a majority of our installations, has not used any product in between the glass and rubber and he has never had an issue. Thank you so much for your question and thank you for watching!
@@SteeleRubberProducts sounds good, thanks for the response and info!
The locking strip is just a piece of rubber 1/8th?
Most of them are rubber but they can also be mylar. We offer a few different shapes as they aren't universal- each gasket will take a certain shape locking strip. Here is a link to all the universal type locking strips we offer: www.steelerubber.com/locking-strips Let us know if we can answer any more questions. Thanks for watching!
@@SteeleRubberProducts would this work on a 70's Porsche 911 instead of their delicate aluminum locking strips?
The same concept would apply but you'd just have to use the right size locking strip. Just compare the size and shape of your aluminum one to a rubber one and if you can match it up to a rubber one it should work just fine. If you see one in our universal catalog that you think might work give us a call and we can send you a small sample to do a test fit. Thanks for watching, Todd!
This isent how gm abodys are right?
Yes, that is correct Harry. A-body seals were either roped in or glued on. Thanks for watching!
Wouldn’t recommend hook tool against glass. Those two don’t get along
We typically don't recommend a metal tool like that against rubber but for this application you have to use something that can get down in the gasket and make sure the glass is seated. You just have to be very careful. The gentleman using that tool is a professional glass installer and very skilled at what he does. Thanks for pointing that out!
no very useful, most vintages have barbed chrome locking strip and THAT is another story