Ego-free demonstration and brilliant work. Your videos have inspired me to set up my own hobby shop at home. I'm a machinist by trade (20 years in manufacturing). My work doesn't allow for moments of creativity such as what is demonstrated in this video. Well done!
myfordboy, You're a genius. I'm an Air Craft mechanic. I've -always- wondered how "parts" got made. I just put them together and trouble shoot them. Your channel is the -best- resource I have ever seen. THANK YOU!
The thing I love about your videos is that you make everything look so easy, you avoid the flashy gimmicks in your videos, and you educate people very well... My only complaint, you dont show where in the machinists handbook such information is and how to derive the angle from the data... but that is a very minor complaint indeed
Whenever I need an idea, tip, or a lesson on how to make something in my workshop, your videos come up. They're a pleasure to watch. Keep up the great work!
Slotting the blank gets it turning easily and ensures the correct number of teeth are formed. I have read it is possible to end up with a gear with the wrong number of teeth if you don't do this.
I picked up a Harbor Freight 45861 9 x 20 bench lathe new, a few years ago for about $500 US. About the size of the Myford, just not as refined. I consider mine a work in progress with many upgrades planned. There are several lathes of this size sold by Grizzly and others. A great size for those in need of something larger than the smaller hobby lathes but without the need (or room) for a full size lathe. Love your Myford. It inspires me and gives me something to strive toward on my budget.
Saw your comment on Kieth Rucker's site. This explains why his original worm wheel was bronze and not like the others. Must have been cut in a similar way using a steel worm gear. Very clever.
You know, I've learned so many things from your videos. This video was a perfect example. I could only guess at how to make a worm gear (let alone a gear cutter) and now I've got the confidence (if not the tools yet) to try making one myself -I need a dividing head. You're one of my best sources of information and I thank you for it.
Apparently this video is made when I started to think about making my own gears and worm(wheels), due to lack of tools (funds..) I am still thinking.. This showed me I am thinking the right direction. Thank you very much, nice work.
I worked out the worm wheel size and pitch angle nof worm with information in a book. The hardest part is working out the change wheels necessary to give the lead to cut the thread as it is not a standard pitch. A method using continous fractions is used and I did find an on line calculator to work out that part.
What's non-standard about 5·730659 tpi ? (4·4323 mm) Just you wait until I start threading on my milling machine ! (I'm afraid I can't ! - can't wait to find out what random pitches it'll produce :)
I have to make a replacement worm and worm gear for my power feed as both are stripped. May I ask what book you used for the calculations? I don't know the correct blank size for the worm gear or what to grind my cutter to. I can reverse engineer it but I'd rather do some reading and learn how to do it right.
Such a great watch on a holiday Monday morning with spicy muffins and a cup of coffee and a great presentation. Thank you for a great start to the day.
This gear has a 14.5 deg pressure angle so the tool is ground to that angle. It also needs reliving to alow for the helix angle of the gear. The width of the tip is important to and came from data in a book. I found it easier to draw the angle with CAD and eyeball against this but the tip needs measuring with a mic.
The Pitch Circle Diameter (PCD) of a gear is the point between the high and low points that is the theoretical equivalent diameter of a set of simple wheels. Gear teeth reach across that theoretical line and the two extremes are calculated from that median point called the PCD. The outer diameter is less critical than you would think as the highest and lowest points never contact. It is a good place for lubrication to reside.
Wonder what kind of alloy do you use to make the screw cutter? because If I'll have use A1 whit out any annealing for sure that would have became a nice piece of hardened steel popcorn!
You are obviously right about this, but I cannot see how it happens. The cutting part of the hob only cuts in the grooves, not on the outer edge of the gear, or? I guess I'm just too thick to envision this. Wonderful video in any case. Thank you for sharing your excellent work.
Starting by cutting helix-angled slits explains a lot. I wondered how a hob got started evenly without some exotic geared connection between the hob and the worm wheel.
very nice and very professional queston:is it really necessary to cut those slots on gear blank on index head, provided tht you have a hob with cutting edges to controll the rotation, in my opinion it is not mandatory , but i still need ur expert opinion , pls dp reply
I'll describe it for you here. I don't need to make another so sorry no video. The V angle in this case is 29 deg as the pressure angle of the gear is 14 1/2 deg. The tip width is given in charts as .054 for this 18 DP gear. The V was ground free hand and checked with a protractor. The point is then ground away to give the .054 dimension. The tool was ground from a broken centre drill. It can be rotated in it's holder to give clearance to suit the helix angle of the worm.
Excellent technique. Very well done. I do agree with the comment about buying on from, presumably, Boston Gear. That lathe sounds like the one I worked with as a kid at home. I thought the speed used turning drill rod was high.i had to run the old lathe much slower. I did not have carbide cutting tools.
Facinating, to see this being done. I always thought that the hob did the entire job. Was surprised, that you roughed-in the teeth first, on your mill. Great information as always. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with all of us.
Toolmaker myself. Your videos bring a lot off skills flooding back. I'm very impressed with the casting video's that you do as well (my wife says ohh no you don't ). Keep up the great videos
Sir, I do like your idea for a collet chuck. After spending my life in shops and tool rooms in the U.S., it always intrigues me to see the processes, and machinery that are customary in other parts of the world. Sadly, the American machine tool builders did not keep the tee slotted cross slide. Your hobbling video is educational and entertaining. I thank you.
That was pretty impressive. I've since watched a few other videos. You make that relatively basic lathe dance and do tricks that a lot of machinists couldn't do with the fanciest modern ones. I love the "This may not be the textbook way, but it's a way that works and gets the job done with what I have." attitude. Most would probably pin the hobb to the mandrel or some such, you just glued the darn thing and got to work. I also like that you don't waste a lot of time worrying about measurements beyond 'it's close enough'.
You might get away without making the slots but slotting the blank ensures it turns when the hob is fed into it. I have heard of failures when this is not done and you can end up with a worm wheel with misformed and the wrong number of teeth.
I have cut steel ones like this so bronze and iron are fine. \If you are using a standard pitch wheel, mine was 48 teeth 18DP thenpitch never works out bto a standard pitch . You have to calculate the lead an set up changewheel to cut it. The one in the video has a lead of 0.1745"
Thanks for sharing. Im a machinist also. There lots of trick you can learn. It very helpful from your experience. Cutting special thread on lathe is not easy. You got skills . I wish I can learn using software to program and draw desighn for cnc lathe and milling. I have some cnc experiences and manual.
Just incredible, exactly what I need to make fine feed for my homemade mini mill. Going to attach the worm gear to the quill and the worm screw will fine feed adjust it! Thank you so much.
Sou torneiro mecânico,e amo muito a profissão.sei que cada dia que passa há uma nova evolução isso é que é importante a mecânica nunca vai parar de evoluir.meus para-bem muito bonito esse trabalho.
Interesting as I was fascinated by the machines used to make the components you do. Almost in a way like people descend from people before them these machines were crafted by machines before them. Good stuff.
This is really impressive, and very kind of you to put up. In addition to the whole concept of making your own hob, loved the bits about using an additional gear set to slow the lathe down to cut the spirals, and using a custom template for the indexer. I'm going to search around now and see if you've done a similar project to cut your own helical gears...
@@myfordboy I kinda figured you might have. :) I've seen setups for it, but they all depended on a very complicated gearing setup between the mill table movement, and a rotary table. Is that what you did, or did you figure out a shortcut, as you did here?
@@myfordboy Oh!! So using the carriage to hold a small milling head, with the lathe setup to cut the gears as if they were threads? That's brilliant. I'm sure it was a lot of work, but it seems much more straightforward than on a mill, where there isn't any built in coupling between linear and rotational movement at all. If that was the rough setup, did you have to create auxiliary gear sets, or could you do it with just special threading gears?
The concave edges on the worm wheel are formed to the same diametre as the hob. Same way you would get a concave surface if an end mill is feed in sideways to the work.
The only thing I would do differently is to make the worm and hob as one part up through cutting the thread. Then cut in half and continue with cutting teeth on hob. Save a bit of time and maybe improve match between them. Amazed that you got away without tempering the hob…that wheel is one soft casting!
Awesome as usual myfordboy. Was cutting the wheel with the hob only possible because you tempered it? I never thought about doing a quick tempering like that. You had some real BTUs roasting that sucker. Was that just water you dropped it in?
I like your video. It gives me hope on a solution. What my problem is that I need a solution is a large electric motor output shaft conversion to go into a smaller hole of a clutch. I've looked around, asked around, and seems machinists don't want to do what seems to be a simple male to female shaft coupling. Basically my electric motor has an 18 point, 1 3/16" diameter, 1.125" long output shaft and I want to broach a sleeve, or internal (female) over it that then has a 7/8 long, 1 point 7/8" diameter output shaft to go into the clutch of my manual transmission of my GMC Tracker. I don't know if I should try and make a plastic mold and send it to someone, or try and take a piece of stock and broach it with no real tools. I kind of feel like giving up after handing my clutch and motor to several machinists who put them on their shelf and never did anything with them and only returned them after I called and came over several times. Not sure what the issue is. Any help would be appreciated, Jon.
Shape is not something that can be transferred from a pattern. It is formed by tools set to cut the specified radii of each portion of the curve. There's a good book by Ivan Law: Gears And Gear Cutting - good explanations of design process and cutting processes - Complex, but each part taken slowly builds to an understanding and working knowledge. Expect to take your time, but be persistent and push yourself a little and you'll get it. Only 134 pages but you go a paragraph at a time.
I already learned most of the job, truth is you learn all your life, but i already learned doing some precision works, i worked on different machines like mills, two smaller lathes and a massive one. I dont call myself and expert in machining, but i would be a mid good guy. I am looking in some years to buy a newer one, a bit smaller than the one you listed, just because i HATE so much the noise that the big one makes in our school, i ant handle it, and i like smaller machines.
+david sanderson I am not sure exactly what they are made of. It's a commercial brazing hearth and it was given to me. They are harder than thermolite blocks but softer than firebricks.
Another amazing and educational video. Myfordboy, your work is very inspiring, and some day, I hope to try some of the things your have demonstrated. Many thanks!
Hello Myfordboy Very good video. I wanted to know if you would sell me 1 of your worm drives. I make wooden automatas and I was planning on using your part to copy, using a router. I only need the worm not the wheel. The size in the video would be fine. I would need a 10mm hole centre. regards Tim
You could also make a double-enveloping worm gear and worm this way, if you hardened the worm gear you made (and made it out of HSS or tool steel) and turned it into a cutter. Food for thought. Great video BTW; I was wondering how one would go about doing this.
Nice work, sir. Very well done. I was just granted an apprenticeship in the sheet metal industry; although I know this kind of work is different, it's still very appealing to me watching you use machinery to fabricate whatever kind of metal components you want. Makes you realize how much the slightest calculation can make a difference when it comes to shaping metal! My only gripe: engineers in developing nations are emulating your technique, rather than figuring it out on their own. :-(
ohh me han impresionado, usted es un gran artesano, tengo una curiosidad, sería posible utilizar este sistema para hacer un engranaje cónico?, gracias por mostrar su trabajo, saludos
Hi myfordboy from the U.S.A. Great vids. My question is. When you were cutting gear by running lathe forward then reverse I thought that was impossible because every lathe has some back lash. Does your lathe have zero back lash? Thanks for vids. Keep them coming.
Danbackboard You cut counterclockwise because of the design of the lathe and the fact that you want to have downward pressure on the tool bit. If you use upward pressure, all of the backlash that would be introduced into your carriage and compound rest would make it impossible to keep rigid (chatter free) and accurate with your cuts. Since the tool bit is in the front part of the lathe, the head stock is on the left side, and downward pressure is needed during cuts, counterclockwise is necessary. If you had the head stock on the other end (right side), it would be the opposite rule, clockwise direction would be used, but I've never seen a lathe with the head stock on the right side.
Excellent video. Jumped online to see what would be involved in hobbing as I've got a failed worm gear for the power feed in a Nardini lathe. Tough part is figuring out what the math is to create a gear to match an existing worm. I'm not sure I'm going to have the setup to hob like that, but at least I know what the process would be. I'll put it to use someday.
I'm going to suggest the teeth starter cuts need not be all 48. I'd suggest 5 is all that's needed as the hob will cut the rest ! I'm just not sure this would reliably meet up after one revolution - maybe in theory but not in practice. Absolutely great video though !
I think the worm tool needs to be different from the end worm to get the slack in the tooth's foot from the whell worm. And this is possible by reversing the calculation between head and foot of the tooth of the worm tool. Maintaining the distance between centers in the manufacture and use of the assembly.
I have Ivan Law's book but have not read it in ages. But I do have a question. When you turned down the worm wheel in preparation to gash it with the saw, it looked like the blank was cut parallel to the shaft that it would ride on. When you finished hobbing the worm wheel, the face was concave. Did the hob form this concavity in the gear as it was hobbed, or did you cut it in some how? I cannot see how the hob would have cut the concavity since you only relieved the cutter at the top of the tooth. The concavity looks like it would have been cut with the root of the hobs teeth, but I don't see how. Also, I know that the outer diameter of the blank would be (T+2)/P, but that would be at the center of the worm wheel at the bottom of the concave area. How much is added to this diameter to give the side curved flanks of the teeth on the worm wheel? Or maybe phrased another way, how much was added to the diameter of the blank to allow for the concavity of the face of the worm wheel? That was a mouth full and I hope my question made sense. Maybe my answers are in Ivan Law's book and I only need to read. But any finger pointing in the right direction would be appreciated sir. Joe
The blank was tipped a little when gashed to the angle of the worm teeth. The concave cut on the worm wheel is generated because the hob that is fed into it is revolving so it produces the same circular form. I did not save my calculations but just followed the method shown in the book to give the depth of cut and the required distance between shaft. Nothing is added to the blank diameters.
Thank you sir. I retrieved the book from the shelf and am rereading it now. Maybe I can figure it out. :-) The teeth on the worm wheel being concave is what was throwing me. I couldn't figure out how you got it there. I am most of the way there. I can figure out the linear pitch of the worm and the gears to use to approximate it, the lead angle of the worm to calculate the offset angle of the worm wheel to gash. It was the whole worm wheel diameter with the concave face that was throwing me. Thanks, as always for such great videos. Joe
What lathe is that? It looks small and im looking for a small one for my garage. But as im only 16 and i want to learn but dont have the budget, i dont have the money to buy a bigger one, and i like more quiet and smaller things. Can someone reccomend me a small lathe i can get for small ammount of money?
Nice work man, I am a noob ,done it before see this video,( 1 year of experience), making a hob with a normal 35 teeth gear, it rotate 35kg material on acid, 😅😅😅😅it works very good
Hi, just wanted to add my tuppence worth and say how much I'm enjoying your blog and videos. I'm curious what you used to calculate the worm and wheel dimensions? Online calculator or old school tables?
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That is indeed a lot of work. Is this how they did it before it was done by a computer?
Ricky Reynolds Same thought. Something far more intimate about controlling the process without a computer being an intermediary between yourself and the workpiece.
That is determined by tooth shape and clearance. Shape is not something that can be transferred from a pattern. It is formed by tools set to cut the specified radii of each portion of the curve. There's a good book by Ivan Law: Gears And Gear Cutting - good explanations of design process and cutting processes - Complex, but each part taken slowly builds to an understanding and working knowledge. Expect to take your time, but be persistent and push yourself a little and you'll get it.
How great teacher you are,Salute. I got questions. When you hardening dont you use magnet to check before you dump into oil. At 16.00 Would it be better to tilt indexer front or back a little, So the gash will be tilt.
Ego-free demonstration and brilliant work. Your videos have inspired me to set up my own hobby shop at home. I'm a machinist by trade (20 years in manufacturing). My work doesn't allow for moments of creativity such as what is demonstrated in this video. Well done!
I like the silent approach with written comments. Very clear and concise. Nothing over-explained. Very nice work!
Good stuff. I especially appreciate that the only sounds we hear are your tools and work. NO music, No talking, just tool sounds.
myfordboy,
You're a genius. I'm an Air Craft mechanic. I've -always- wondered how "parts" got made. I just put them together and trouble shoot them. Your channel is the -best- resource I have ever seen. THANK YOU!
The thing I love about your videos is that you make everything look so easy, you avoid the flashy gimmicks in your videos, and you educate people very well...
My only complaint, you dont show where in the machinists handbook such information is and how to derive the angle from the data... but that is a very minor complaint indeed
Whenever I need an idea, tip, or a lesson on how to make something in my workshop, your videos come up. They're a pleasure to watch. Keep up the great work!
Slotting the blank gets it turning easily and ensures the correct number of teeth are formed. I have read it is possible to end up with a gear with the wrong number of teeth if you don't do this.
I picked up a Harbor Freight 45861 9 x 20 bench lathe new, a few years ago for about $500 US. About the size of the Myford, just not as refined. I consider mine a work in progress with many upgrades planned. There are several lathes of this size sold by Grizzly and others. A great size for those in need of something larger than the smaller hobby lathes but without the need (or room) for a full size lathe. Love your Myford. It inspires me and gives me something to strive toward on my budget.
I like how you show your hands working the machine. So many videos leave that out, it’s the most interesting part to me
It's so good to see a craftsman working.
You have taught me a lot from just 1 video, many thanks.
Thanks for your comment. The indexer is as bought. I just had to drill holes in the base to suit the spacing of the tee slots in the table.
Saw your comment on Kieth Rucker's site. This explains why his original worm wheel was bronze and not like the others. Must have been cut in a similar way using a steel worm gear. Very clever.
The guy makes his own wok tools....
It's just incredible WOOOW!
I really admire your work
Thank you from France!!! 🇫🇷
You know, I've learned so many things from your videos. This video was a perfect example. I could only guess at how to make a worm gear (let alone a gear cutter) and now I've got the confidence (if not the tools yet) to try making one myself -I need a dividing head. You're one of my best sources of information and I thank you for it.
Apparently this video is made when I started to think about making my own gears and worm(wheels), due to lack of tools (funds..) I am still thinking..
This showed me I am thinking the right direction. Thank you very much, nice work.
I worked out the worm wheel size and pitch angle nof worm with information in a book. The hardest part is working out the change wheels necessary to give the lead to cut the thread as it is not a standard pitch.
A method using continous fractions is used and I did find an on line calculator to work out that part.
What's non-standard about 5·730659 tpi ? (4·4323 mm)
Just you wait until I start threading on my milling machine ! (I'm afraid I can't ! - can't wait to find out what random pitches it'll produce :)
96 173.7142857 306.2857143 50.28571429 539.4285714 969.1428571 1714.285714 3062.857143 5394.285714
58.43478261 105.7391304 186.4347826 30.60869565 328.3478261 589.9130435 1043.478261 1864.347826 3283.478261
42 76 134 22 236 424 750 1340 2360
31.25581395 56.55813953 99.72093023 16.37209302 175.627907 315.5348837 558.1395349 997.2093023 1756.27907
24.88888889 45.03703704 79.40740741 13.03703704 139.8518519 251.2592593 444.4444444 794.0740741 1398.518519
17.68421053 32 56.42105263 9.263157895 99.36842105 178.5263158 315.7894737 564.2105263 993.6842105
15.1011236 27.3258427 48.17977528 7.91011236 84.85393258 152.4494382 269.6629213 481.7977528 848.5393258
12.10810811 21.90990991 38.63063063 6.342342342 68.03603604 122.2342342 216.2162162 386.3063063 680.3603604
8.784313725 15.89542484 28.02614379 4.60130719 49.35947712 88.67973856 156.8627451 280.2614379 493.5947712
7.550561798 13.66292135 24.08988764 3.95505618 42.42696629 76.2247191 134.8314607 240.8988764 424.2696629
5.229571984 9.463035019 16.6848249 2.739299611 29.38521401 52.79377432 93.38521401 166.848249 293.8521401
3.96460177 7.174041298 12.64896755 2.076696165 22.27728614 40.02359882 70.79646018 126.4896755 222.7728614
3.201793722 5.793721973 10.21524664 1.677130045 17.99103139 32.32286996 57.17488789 102.1524664 179.9103139
2.247491639 4.066889632 7.170568562 1.177257525 12.62876254 22.68896321 40.13377926 71.70568562 126.2876254
1.874476987 3.391910739 5.980474198 0.9818688982 10.53277545 18.92329149 33.47280335 59.80474198 105.3277545
1.12 2.026666667 3.573333333 0.5866666667 6.293333333 11.30666667 20 35.73333333 62.93333333
There's a 5·79 TPI in there !
5394 TPI is the finest thread - but I've got another bunch of numbers I'd forgotten about ! I've got all these numbers again but multiplied by 1·3559322
I guess all these numbers are approximate in any case from rounding errors from the source data !
I have to make a replacement worm and worm gear for my power feed as both are stripped. May I ask what book you used for the calculations? I don't know the correct blank size for the worm gear or what to grind my cutter to. I can reverse engineer it but I'd rather do some reading and learn how to do it right.
@@LeadedAsbestos Ivan Laws excellent and inexpensive book. Gears and Gear cutting.
@@myfordboy thank you. I will order both. You do some amazing work. Thanks again
I don't understand why you don't have more likes. Excellent video. Thank you.
Your videos are the only ones I've seen with so many up votes and zero down votes. Well done matey, you're a true engineer.
Such a great watch on a holiday Monday morning with spicy muffins and a cup of coffee and a great presentation. Thank you for a great start to the day.
This gear has a 14.5 deg pressure angle so the tool is ground to that angle. It also needs reliving to alow for the helix angle of the gear. The width of the tip is important to and came from data in a book.
I found it easier to draw the angle with CAD and eyeball against this but the tip needs measuring with a mic.
Brilliant! Your expertise and longterm experience shows in the way you turn out the work at at hand . Thanks for sharing!!!!
The Pitch Circle Diameter (PCD) of a gear is the point between the high and low points that is the theoretical equivalent diameter of a set of simple wheels. Gear teeth reach across that theoretical line and the two extremes are calculated from that median point called the PCD. The outer diameter is less critical than you would think as the highest and lowest points never contact. It is a good place for lubrication to reside.
Wonder what kind of alloy do you use to make the screw cutter? because If I'll have use A1 whit out any annealing for sure that would have became a nice piece of hardened steel popcorn!
You are obviously right about this, but I cannot see how it happens. The cutting part of the hob only cuts in the grooves, not on the outer edge of the gear, or? I guess I'm just too thick to envision this. Wonderful video in any case. Thank you for sharing your excellent work.
The collet chuck holds the work more concentric than a 3 jaw and provides a stronger grip too.
Starting by cutting helix-angled slits explains a lot. I wondered how a hob got started evenly without some exotic geared connection between the hob and the worm wheel.
very nice and very professional
queston:is it really necessary to cut those slots on gear blank on index head, provided tht you have a hob with cutting edges to controll the rotation,
in my opinion it is not mandatory , but i still need ur expert opinion , pls dp reply
I'll describe it for you here. I don't need to make another so sorry no video.
The V angle in this case is 29 deg as the pressure angle of the gear is 14 1/2 deg.
The tip width is given in charts as .054 for this 18 DP gear.
The V was ground free hand and checked with a protractor. The point is then ground away to give the .054 dimension. The tool was ground from a broken centre drill. It can be rotated in it's holder to give clearance to suit the helix angle of the worm.
Excellent technique. Very well done. I do agree with the comment about buying on from, presumably, Boston Gear.
That lathe sounds like the one I worked with as a kid at home. I thought the speed used turning drill rod was high.i had to run the old lathe much slower. I did not have carbide cutting tools.
Facinating, to see this being done. I always thought that the hob did the entire job. Was surprised, that you roughed-in the teeth first, on your mill. Great information as always. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with all of us.
Outstanding presentation. Couldn't possibly be clearer. Many thanks for taking the time to share!
Toolmaker myself. Your videos bring a lot off skills flooding back. I'm very impressed with the casting video's that you do as well (my wife says ohh no you don't ). Keep up the great videos
Sir, I do like your idea for a collet chuck. After spending my life in shops and tool rooms in the U.S., it always intrigues me to see the processes, and machinery that are customary in other parts of the world. Sadly, the American machine tool builders did not keep the tee slotted cross slide.
Your hobbling video is educational and entertaining. I thank you.
That was pretty impressive. I've since watched a few other videos. You make that relatively basic lathe dance and do tricks that a lot of machinists couldn't do with the fanciest modern ones. I love the "This may not be the textbook way, but it's a way that works and gets the job done with what I have." attitude. Most would probably pin the hobb to the mandrel or some such, you just glued the darn thing and got to work. I also like that you don't waste a lot of time worrying about measurements beyond 'it's close enough'.
CrimFerret i
You might get away without making the slots but slotting the blank ensures it turns when the hob is fed into it. I have heard of failures when this is not done and you can end up with a worm wheel with misformed and the wrong number of teeth.
The gear has a pressure angle of 14.5 deg so the cutting tool has an angle of 29 deg. If this is what you are asking.
I have cut steel ones like this so bronze and iron are fine. \If you are using a standard pitch wheel, mine was 48 teeth 18DP thenpitch never works out bto a standard pitch . You have to calculate the lead an set up changewheel to cut it. The one in the video has a lead of 0.1745"
Finally! This is the BEST video about making a worm gear! Thanks you!
Congratulations, well done.
But why cut rotation anti clockwise?
Has a why?
A hug from Brazil
right, but the tool is cutting up.
If cut down would have problems?
Thanks for sharing. Im a machinist also. There lots of trick you can learn. It very helpful from your experience. Cutting special thread on lathe is not easy. You got skills . I wish I can learn using software to program and draw desighn for cnc lathe and milling. I have some cnc experiences and manual.
Just incredible, exactly what I need to make fine feed for my homemade mini mill. Going to attach the worm gear to the quill and the worm screw will fine feed adjust it! Thank you so much.
This is one of the best videos I have seen, especially the "hobbing" process which great to watch. It's no wonder it's had so many views.
Sou torneiro mecânico,e amo muito a profissão.sei que cada dia que passa há uma nova evolução isso é que é importante a mecânica nunca vai parar de evoluir.meus para-bem muito bonito esse trabalho.
Interesting as I was fascinated by the machines used to make the components you do. Almost in a way like people descend from people before them these machines were crafted by machines before them. Good stuff.
It's a Sievert propane torch with a large burner.
This is really impressive, and very kind of you to put up. In addition to the whole concept of making your own hob, loved the bits about using an additional gear set to slow the lathe down to cut the spirals, and using a custom template for the indexer. I'm going to search around now and see if you've done a similar project to cut your own helical gears...
I have cut skew gears but no video record as it was before TH-cam existed.
@@myfordboy I kinda figured you might have. :) I've seen setups for it, but they all depended on a very complicated gearing setup between the mill table movement, and a rotary table. Is that what you did, or did you figure out a shortcut, as you did here?
@@tomsmith3045 I did mine on the lathe with a milling spindle . Quite complicated. I have some still pics stoneware.
@@myfordboy Oh!! So using the carriage to hold a small milling head, with the lathe setup to cut the gears as if they were threads? That's brilliant. I'm sure it was a lot of work, but it seems much more straightforward than on a mill, where there isn't any built in coupling between linear and rotational movement at all. If that was the rough setup, did you have to create auxiliary gear sets, or could you do it with just special threading gears?
@@tomsmith3045 do you have Instagram? I can post the set up on there if you like.
Is the pitch of the hob special or could one be cut on a boxford lathe also do you think you could hob bronze or cast iron ?
The concave edges on the worm wheel are formed to the same diametre as the hob. Same way you would get a concave surface if an end mill is feed in sideways to the work.
The only thing I would do differently is to make the worm and hob as one part up through cutting the thread. Then cut in half and continue with cutting teeth on hob. Save a bit of time and maybe improve match between them. Amazed that you got away without tempering the hob…that wheel is one soft casting!
Awesome as usual myfordboy. Was cutting the wheel with the hob only possible because you tempered it? I never thought about doing a quick tempering like that. You had some real BTUs roasting that sucker. Was that just water you dropped it in?
I like your video. It gives me hope on a solution. What my problem is that I need a solution is a large electric motor output shaft conversion to go into a smaller hole of a clutch. I've looked around, asked around, and seems machinists don't want to do what seems to be a simple male to female shaft coupling. Basically my electric motor has an 18 point, 1 3/16" diameter, 1.125" long output shaft and I want to broach a sleeve, or internal (female) over it that then has a 7/8 long, 1 point 7/8" diameter output shaft to go into the clutch of my manual transmission of my GMC Tracker. I don't know if I should try and make a plastic mold and send it to someone, or try and take a piece of stock and broach it with no real tools. I kind of feel like giving up after handing my clutch and motor to several machinists who put them on their shelf and never did anything with them and only returned them after I called and came over several times. Not sure what the issue is. Any help would be appreciated, Jon.
I know this has been around for awhile but new to me. Great video. I have a need to make this so very timely. Thanks
Shape is not something that can be transferred from a pattern. It is formed by tools set to cut the specified radii of each portion of the curve. There's a good book by Ivan Law: Gears And Gear Cutting - good explanations of design process and cutting processes - Complex, but each part taken slowly builds to an understanding and working knowledge. Expect to take your time, but be persistent and push yourself a little and you'll get it. Only 134 pages but you go a paragraph at a time.
Very interesting. Never seen that done in 40 yrs of machining. Thanks!
Wow. I am speechless, wish i was in possession of the skills you show here on your channel. Inspiring, great work!
Do you think you could have keyed the hob, or will the loctite hold up over use, heat, and time?
Watching you work so swiftly on the lathe is fascinating.
The material is siver steel, known as drill rod in the US.
What did you use to heat the hob ? I didn't recognize the burner. Seemed to generate a lot of heat fast over a wide area.
I already learned most of the job, truth is you learn all your life, but i already learned doing some precision works, i worked on different machines like mills, two smaller lathes and a massive one. I dont call myself and expert in machining, but i would be a mid good guy. I am looking in some years to buy a newer one, a bit smaller than the one you listed, just because i HATE so much the noise that the big one makes in our school, i ant handle it, and i like smaller machines.
Nice work.
I needed a worm drive, bought it, $30, brass ring gear, steel worm.
But if you needed an odd dimension its good to know to make one.
Boy what a bonus that t-slot cross slide is , thanks for the vid
Interesting method....How do you determine the OD of the gear blank ?
nice job could you tell me what the blocks are on your hearth are they special or are they thermolite building blocks thanks for sharing
+david sanderson I am not sure exactly what they are made of. It's a commercial brazing hearth and it was given to me. They are harder than thermolite blocks but softer than firebricks.
Another amazing and educational video. Myfordboy, your work is very inspiring, and some day, I hope to try some of the things your have demonstrated. Many thanks!
Your channel sir is a gold mine of knowledge! 👏👍 Thanks for sharing!
Very interesting one. It's good that no music, advertisement in between. 👍👌🌹💕
Beautiful demonstration and it is very helpful to small Pinion sprocket producers specially for instrumentation instrument gears !
Hello Myfordboy
Very good video. I wanted to know if you would sell me 1 of your worm drives. I make wooden automatas and I was planning on using your part to copy, using a router. I only need the worm not the wheel. The size in the video would be fine. I would need a 10mm hole centre.
regards
Tim
You could also make a double-enveloping worm gear and worm this way, if you hardened the worm gear you made (and made it out of HSS or tool steel) and turned it into a cutter. Food for thought. Great video BTW; I was wondering how one would go about doing this.
Nice work, sir. Very well done. I was just granted an apprenticeship in the sheet metal industry; although I know this kind of work is different, it's still very appealing to me watching you use machinery to fabricate whatever kind of metal components you want. Makes you realize how much the slightest calculation can make a difference when it comes to shaping metal!
My only gripe: engineers in developing nations are emulating your technique, rather than figuring it out on their own. :-(
I have been model engineering for30 years and have built up my tools over that period.
You are good, real good. I can't imagine the time it took to learn the specifics.
ohh me han impresionado, usted es un gran artesano, tengo una curiosidad, sería posible utilizar este sistema para hacer un engranaje cónico?, gracias por mostrar su trabajo, saludos
enjoyed the skill you are possessing in handling various machines.
I never would of thought of that,congrads, well done. Question, why do you hold everything in that (looks like) an erickerson collet
Hi myfordboy from the U.S.A. Great vids. My question is. When you were cutting gear by running lathe forward then reverse I thought that was impossible because every lathe has some back lash. Does your lathe have zero back lash? Thanks for vids. Keep them coming.
The tool is retracted on the reverse so there was no cut taken, as you say to allow for backlash.
Hello myfordboy!!! With great pleasure to watch your videos!
Thank you. All the best to you.
Danbackboard You cut counterclockwise because of the design of the lathe and the fact that you want to have downward pressure on the tool bit. If you use upward pressure, all of the backlash that would be introduced into your carriage and compound rest would make it impossible to keep rigid (chatter free) and accurate with your cuts. Since the tool bit is in the front part of the lathe, the head stock is on the left side, and downward pressure is needed during cuts, counterclockwise is necessary. If you had the head stock on the other end (right side), it would be the opposite rule, clockwise direction would be used, but I've never seen a lathe with the head stock on the right side.
What's the end result and difference between water quenching and oil quenching?
Thanks for another fine tutorial.
Excellent video.
Jumped online to see what would be involved in hobbing as I've got a failed worm gear for the power feed in a Nardini lathe.
Tough part is figuring out what the math is to create a gear to match an existing worm.
I'm not sure I'm going to have the setup to hob like that, but at least I know what the process would be. I'll put it to use someday.
I'm going to suggest the teeth starter cuts need not be all 48. I'd suggest 5 is all that's needed as the hob will cut the rest ! I'm just not sure this would reliably meet up after one revolution - maybe in theory but not in practice.
Absolutely great video though !
I really love that T-slotted cross slide on your myford lathe, wish my lathe had one.
I think the worm tool needs to be different from the end worm to get the slack in the tooth's foot from the whell worm.
And this is possible by reversing the calculation between head and foot of the tooth of the worm tool.
Maintaining the distance between centers in the manufacture and use of the assembly.
I have Ivan Law's book but have not read it in ages. But I do have a question. When you turned down the worm wheel in preparation to gash it with the saw, it looked like the blank was cut parallel to the shaft that it would ride on. When you finished hobbing the worm wheel, the face was concave. Did the hob form this concavity in the gear as it was hobbed, or did you cut it in some how? I cannot see how the hob would have cut the concavity since you only relieved the cutter at the top of the tooth. The concavity looks like it would have been cut with the root of the hobs teeth, but I don't see how. Also, I know that the outer diameter of the blank would be (T+2)/P, but that would be at the center of the worm wheel at the bottom of the concave area. How much is added to this diameter to give the side curved flanks of the teeth on the worm wheel? Or maybe phrased another way, how much was added to the diameter of the blank to allow for the concavity of the face of the worm wheel?
That was a mouth full and I hope my question made sense. Maybe my answers are in Ivan Law's book and I only need to read. But any finger pointing in the right direction would be appreciated sir.
Joe
The blank was tipped a little when gashed to the angle of the worm teeth. The concave cut on the worm wheel is generated because the hob that is fed into it is revolving so it produces the same circular form.
I did not save my calculations but just followed the method shown in the book to give the depth of cut and the required distance between shaft. Nothing is added to the blank diameters.
Thank you sir. I retrieved the book from the shelf and am rereading it now. Maybe I can figure it out. :-) The teeth on the worm wheel being concave is what was throwing me. I couldn't figure out how you got it there. I am most of the way there. I can figure out the linear pitch of the worm and the gears to use to approximate it, the lead angle of the worm to calculate the offset angle of the worm wheel to gash. It was the whole worm wheel diameter with the concave face that was throwing me. Thanks, as always for such great videos.
Joe
Tha is slick for a home shop. Nice work. Did you also make the ER chuck?
+phooesnax he 32 er chuck was made from a 6" backplate from Chronos and a collet chuck from Chester tools.
What lathe is that? It looks small and im looking for a small one for my garage. But as im only 16 and i want to learn but dont have the budget, i dont have the money to buy a bigger one, and i like more quiet and smaller things. Can someone reccomend me a small lathe i can get for small ammount of money?
Nice work man, I am a noob ,done it before see this video,( 1 year of experience), making a hob with a normal 35 teeth gear, it rotate 35kg material on acid, 😅😅😅😅it works very good
Great work! Myford lathes are really great! Rare to find in the States. Thank you for all of your videos!
Excelente , un maestro de la vieja escuela , llevo a cabo y con perfección todas las tareas , un placer ver sus videos .
Hi, just wanted to add my tuppence worth and say how much I'm enjoying your blog and videos. I'm curious what you used to calculate the worm and wheel dimensions? Online calculator or old school tables?
That is indeed a lot of work. Is this how they did it before it was done by a computer?
I work on a cnc Gleason Pheonix gear cutting hob and this is more fascinating than the machine i run.
Ricky Reynolds Same thought. Something far more intimate about controlling the process without a computer being an intermediary between yourself and the workpiece.
que gran video.. todos los procesos desde la fabricacion del tornillo sin fin fresa madre... y la corora ...genial -
The hob was cut at 48 rpm. Worm wheel at 48 to start with then I increased to 85rpm.
Nice video! But don't stop the lathe when you boring, you can brake the carbure insert :)
Great vid, thanks! But how did the negative radius in the gear come about? I'm having trouble understand how the hobb would have cut that part..
That is determined by tooth shape and clearance. Shape is not something that can be transferred from a pattern. It is formed by tools set to cut the specified radii of each portion of the curve. There's a good book by Ivan Law: Gears And Gear Cutting - good explanations of design process and cutting processes - Complex, but each part taken slowly builds to an understanding and working knowledge. Expect to take your time, but be persistent and push yourself a little and you'll get it.
How great teacher you are,Salute. I got questions. When you hardening dont you use magnet to check before you dump into oil. At 16.00 Would it be better to tilt indexer front or back a little, So the gash will be tilt.
At 15:42 you can see the index has packing under the front edge and is tilted upwards. Why would I use a magnet?
Oh I see now, A magnet is to make sure that steel structure is turned into face center cubic FCC. Which mean it hardenable.