Ego-free demonstration and brilliant work. Your videos have inspired me to set up my own hobby shop at home. I'm a machinist by trade (20 years in manufacturing). My work doesn't allow for moments of creativity such as what is demonstrated in this video. Well done!
myfordboy, You're a genius. I'm an Air Craft mechanic. I've -always- wondered how "parts" got made. I just put them together and trouble shoot them. Your channel is the -best- resource I have ever seen. THANK YOU!
The thing I love about your videos is that you make everything look so easy, you avoid the flashy gimmicks in your videos, and you educate people very well... My only complaint, you dont show where in the machinists handbook such information is and how to derive the angle from the data... but that is a very minor complaint indeed
Whenever I need an idea, tip, or a lesson on how to make something in my workshop, your videos come up. They're a pleasure to watch. Keep up the great work!
I picked up a Harbor Freight 45861 9 x 20 bench lathe new, a few years ago for about $500 US. About the size of the Myford, just not as refined. I consider mine a work in progress with many upgrades planned. There are several lathes of this size sold by Grizzly and others. A great size for those in need of something larger than the smaller hobby lathes but without the need (or room) for a full size lathe. Love your Myford. It inspires me and gives me something to strive toward on my budget.
Such a great watch on a holiday Monday morning with spicy muffins and a cup of coffee and a great presentation. Thank you for a great start to the day.
Slotting the blank gets it turning easily and ensures the correct number of teeth are formed. I have read it is possible to end up with a gear with the wrong number of teeth if you don't do this.
Saw your comment on Kieth Rucker's site. This explains why his original worm wheel was bronze and not like the others. Must have been cut in a similar way using a steel worm gear. Very clever.
You know, I've learned so many things from your videos. This video was a perfect example. I could only guess at how to make a worm gear (let alone a gear cutter) and now I've got the confidence (if not the tools yet) to try making one myself -I need a dividing head. You're one of my best sources of information and I thank you for it.
You might get away without making the slots but slotting the blank ensures it turns when the hob is fed into it. I have heard of failures when this is not done and you can end up with a worm wheel with misformed and the wrong number of teeth.
Starting by cutting helix-angled slits explains a lot. I wondered how a hob got started evenly without some exotic geared connection between the hob and the worm wheel.
Wonder what kind of alloy do you use to make the screw cutter? because If I'll have use A1 whit out any annealing for sure that would have became a nice piece of hardened steel popcorn!
Apparently this video is made when I started to think about making my own gears and worm(wheels), due to lack of tools (funds..) I am still thinking.. This showed me I am thinking the right direction. Thank you very much, nice work.
This gear has a 14.5 deg pressure angle so the tool is ground to that angle. It also needs reliving to alow for the helix angle of the gear. The width of the tip is important to and came from data in a book. I found it easier to draw the angle with CAD and eyeball against this but the tip needs measuring with a mic.
First let me preface by saying I'm a Journeyman Toolmaker A2. I've always had Hobbs and expanding mandrels at my fingertips. I've never seen Loctite used like that! I mean I knew it was strong, but i never had the balls to try that! Second, I've never had the balls to make a hob and back relieve it with a file!..Then use the lathe as my Hobber!....Very impressive! I really must say, This was the first video that I wasn't pissed off with all the Jack Jawing of the presenter. You got right down to business and made you video...let the work do the talking..anyone worth there salt would be able to figure out what your doing. Not that any of it was hard. Sorry no offense...it's all technique. Technique that I've not in my 35 yr as A2 as ever seen. Best video I've ever seen....and that saying something. ME, PE, Journeyman Toolmaker A2,.. 3rd Generation Toolmaker and son of a Major Player/ Senior VP Institution to the industry. Well Done!.... I'm well pleased!
Thank you for your kind comments. We model engineers use what we have available were in industry there would be a dedicated machine for each operation.
lindowan123 , Yes, sometimes we spend more time patting ourselves on the back, than just saying; “That’s a darned good idea. Congratulations.” And then sign off. Do I need to know about this guy’s childhood and family? No.
Facinating, to see this being done. I always thought that the hob did the entire job. Was surprised, that you roughed-in the teeth first, on your mill. Great information as always. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with all of us.
I worked out the worm wheel size and pitch angle nof worm with information in a book. The hardest part is working out the change wheels necessary to give the lead to cut the thread as it is not a standard pitch. A method using continous fractions is used and I did find an on line calculator to work out that part.
What's non-standard about 5·730659 tpi ? (4·4323 mm) Just you wait until I start threading on my milling machine ! (I'm afraid I can't ! - can't wait to find out what random pitches it'll produce :)
I have to make a replacement worm and worm gear for my power feed as both are stripped. May I ask what book you used for the calculations? I don't know the correct blank size for the worm gear or what to grind my cutter to. I can reverse engineer it but I'd rather do some reading and learn how to do it right.
very nice and very professional queston:is it really necessary to cut those slots on gear blank on index head, provided tht you have a hob with cutting edges to controll the rotation, in my opinion it is not mandatory , but i still need ur expert opinion , pls dp reply
I have Ivan Law's book but have not read it in ages. But I do have a question. When you turned down the worm wheel in preparation to gash it with the saw, it looked like the blank was cut parallel to the shaft that it would ride on. When you finished hobbing the worm wheel, the face was concave. Did the hob form this concavity in the gear as it was hobbed, or did you cut it in some how? I cannot see how the hob would have cut the concavity since you only relieved the cutter at the top of the tooth. The concavity looks like it would have been cut with the root of the hobs teeth, but I don't see how. Also, I know that the outer diameter of the blank would be (T+2)/P, but that would be at the center of the worm wheel at the bottom of the concave area. How much is added to this diameter to give the side curved flanks of the teeth on the worm wheel? Or maybe phrased another way, how much was added to the diameter of the blank to allow for the concavity of the face of the worm wheel? That was a mouth full and I hope my question made sense. Maybe my answers are in Ivan Law's book and I only need to read. But any finger pointing in the right direction would be appreciated sir. Joe
The blank was tipped a little when gashed to the angle of the worm teeth. The concave cut on the worm wheel is generated because the hob that is fed into it is revolving so it produces the same circular form. I did not save my calculations but just followed the method shown in the book to give the depth of cut and the required distance between shaft. Nothing is added to the blank diameters.
Thank you sir. I retrieved the book from the shelf and am rereading it now. Maybe I can figure it out. :-) The teeth on the worm wheel being concave is what was throwing me. I couldn't figure out how you got it there. I am most of the way there. I can figure out the linear pitch of the worm and the gears to use to approximate it, the lead angle of the worm to calculate the offset angle of the worm wheel to gash. It was the whole worm wheel diameter with the concave face that was throwing me. Thanks, as always for such great videos. Joe
You are obviously right about this, but I cannot see how it happens. The cutting part of the hob only cuts in the grooves, not on the outer edge of the gear, or? I guess I'm just too thick to envision this. Wonderful video in any case. Thank you for sharing your excellent work.
I like your video. It gives me hope on a solution. What my problem is that I need a solution is a large electric motor output shaft conversion to go into a smaller hole of a clutch. I've looked around, asked around, and seems machinists don't want to do what seems to be a simple male to female shaft coupling. Basically my electric motor has an 18 point, 1 3/16" diameter, 1.125" long output shaft and I want to broach a sleeve, or internal (female) over it that then has a 7/8 long, 1 point 7/8" diameter output shaft to go into the clutch of my manual transmission of my GMC Tracker. I don't know if I should try and make a plastic mold and send it to someone, or try and take a piece of stock and broach it with no real tools. I kind of feel like giving up after handing my clutch and motor to several machinists who put them on their shelf and never did anything with them and only returned them after I called and came over several times. Not sure what the issue is. Any help would be appreciated, Jon.
That was pretty impressive. I've since watched a few other videos. You make that relatively basic lathe dance and do tricks that a lot of machinists couldn't do with the fanciest modern ones. I love the "This may not be the textbook way, but it's a way that works and gets the job done with what I have." attitude. Most would probably pin the hobb to the mandrel or some such, you just glued the darn thing and got to work. I also like that you don't waste a lot of time worrying about measurements beyond 'it's close enough'.
Excellent technique. Very well done. I do agree with the comment about buying on from, presumably, Boston Gear. That lathe sounds like the one I worked with as a kid at home. I thought the speed used turning drill rod was high.i had to run the old lathe much slower. I did not have carbide cutting tools.
Just incredible, exactly what I need to make fine feed for my homemade mini mill. Going to attach the worm gear to the quill and the worm screw will fine feed adjust it! Thank you so much.
Sir, I do like your idea for a collet chuck. After spending my life in shops and tool rooms in the U.S., it always intrigues me to see the processes, and machinery that are customary in other parts of the world. Sadly, the American machine tool builders did not keep the tee slotted cross slide. Your hobbling video is educational and entertaining. I thank you.
I used to watch gear hobbing machines making gears for massive marine gearboxes. I used to collect old foundry patterns for firewood, and they were works of art and I wish I'd kept some of them now. How did you extract the mandrel from the hob?
I have cut steel ones like this so bronze and iron are fine. \If you are using a standard pitch wheel, mine was 48 teeth 18DP thenpitch never works out bto a standard pitch . You have to calculate the lead an set up changewheel to cut it. The one in the video has a lead of 0.1745"
Hi myfordboy from the U.S.A. Great vids. My question is. When you were cutting gear by running lathe forward then reverse I thought that was impossible because every lathe has some back lash. Does your lathe have zero back lash? Thanks for vids. Keep them coming.
Interesting as I was fascinated by the machines used to make the components you do. Almost in a way like people descend from people before them these machines were crafted by machines before them. Good stuff.
Toolmaker myself. Your videos bring a lot off skills flooding back. I'm very impressed with the casting video's that you do as well (my wife says ohh no you don't ). Keep up the great videos
Awesome as usual myfordboy. Was cutting the wheel with the hob only possible because you tempered it? I never thought about doing a quick tempering like that. You had some real BTUs roasting that sucker. Was that just water you dropped it in?
Thanks for sharing. Im a machinist also. There lots of trick you can learn. It very helpful from your experience. Cutting special thread on lathe is not easy. You got skills . I wish I can learn using software to program and draw desighn for cnc lathe and milling. I have some cnc experiences and manual.
Grate job, as usually. Are the following available: Diameters calculation for both parts Angle of the tool (40 Deg. inclusive?) Distance calculation between the centers of worm and worm-gear, nice mill. The Old Bob
All the calculations were obtained from the Ivan Law book Gears and Gearcutting. I can give you the details of the one in the video if you send me you email address. Mine can be found at myfordboy.blogspot.com
+david sanderson I am not sure exactly what they are made of. It's a commercial brazing hearth and it was given to me. They are harder than thermolite blocks but softer than firebricks.
Sou torneiro mecânico,e amo muito a profissão.sei que cada dia que passa há uma nova evolução isso é que é importante a mecânica nunca vai parar de evoluir.meus para-bem muito bonito esse trabalho.
I notice you used zero forward tooth rake and very little tooth relief, looks like it spent a lot of time filling up with chip, did that in any way affect the final tooth dimensions?
ohh me han impresionado, usted es un gran artesano, tengo una curiosidad, sería posible utilizar este sistema para hacer un engranaje cónico?, gracias por mostrar su trabajo, saludos
Ricky Reynolds Same thought. Something far more intimate about controlling the process without a computer being an intermediary between yourself and the workpiece.
You could also make a double-enveloping worm gear and worm this way, if you hardened the worm gear you made (and made it out of HSS or tool steel) and turned it into a cutter. Food for thought. Great video BTW; I was wondering how one would go about doing this.
+Nacer Ziani It is ceramic fibre blanket. This stuff really reflects the heat and makes it quicker to get the part red hot. I also used it as an insulator in my oil fired furnace build. Look at the demo at the end of this video th-cam.com/video/ha1fAxgNIRs/w-d-xo.html
The Pitch Circle Diameter (PCD) of a gear is the point between the high and low points that is the theoretical equivalent diameter of a set of simple wheels. Gear teeth reach across that theoretical line and the two extremes are calculated from that median point called the PCD. The outer diameter is less critical than you would think as the highest and lowest points never contact. It is a good place for lubrication to reside.
Hello Myfordboy Very good video. I wanted to know if you would sell me 1 of your worm drives. I make wooden automatas and I was planning on using your part to copy, using a router. I only need the worm not the wheel. The size in the video would be fine. I would need a 10mm hole centre. regards Tim
The concave edges on the worm wheel are formed to the same diametre as the hob. Same way you would get a concave surface if an end mill is feed in sideways to the work.
How do you determine the diameter of the gear? Multiplying the pitch of the worm by the desired teeth count would give you the diameter of the gear? Let's say i have a 1.25mm pitch on the worm, and i want a gear with 60 teeth, is it correct to affirm that my gear should have a diameter of 60x1.25 which is equals to 75mm?
That would work but there other factors like the gear diameters if you want the centres of the gears to be a specified difference. There is also the helix angle to calculate. Recommended reading is Ivan Law's book " Gears and gear cutting"
I'll describe it for you here. I don't need to make another so sorry no video. The V angle in this case is 29 deg as the pressure angle of the gear is 14 1/2 deg. The tip width is given in charts as .054 for this 18 DP gear. The V was ground free hand and checked with a protractor. The point is then ground away to give the .054 dimension. The tool was ground from a broken centre drill. It can be rotated in it's holder to give clearance to suit the helix angle of the worm.
How great teacher you are,Salute. I got questions. When you hardening dont you use magnet to check before you dump into oil. At 16.00 Would it be better to tilt indexer front or back a little, So the gash will be tilt.
Hi, great video, i have one question, is aluminium ok for the gear? Because i am in the stage of making the gear but dont have brass stock. What do you think? Thank you!
Another amazing and educational video. Myfordboy, your work is very inspiring, and some day, I hope to try some of the things your have demonstrated. Many thanks!
Could you make the cutter and the actual worm at the same time in the lathe on one arbor? That way would only require one setup and the cutter and worm would be exactly the same size and geometry.
You could do that but the reason I did it this way was, The cutter was made of silver steel and the worm mild steel, making them separately means a shorter work price so less chance of flex.
Great video! I have one question. Why did you use a hand file for the cutter relief instead of using the mill? I ask because I'm handicapped and would find it difficult or impossible to cut the relief with a hand file. Thank you.
The only thing I would do differently is to make the worm and hob as one part up through cutting the thread. Then cut in half and continue with cutting teeth on hob. Save a bit of time and maybe improve match between them. Amazed that you got away without tempering the hob…that wheel is one soft casting!
How do you determine what the wheel diameter has to be for a given gear pitch/diameter?If the diameter is off,the pitch won't make a complete circle,right?Also,would you measure the major or minor diameter of the thread on the wheel?Thank You!!!BTW,personally I still wouldn't trust just the Loctite,I would warm the gear and chill the shaft,but that's just me.
myfordboy Thanks,I will look that up.I also remembered a have a Machinery Handbook from the 1940's stuck somewhere in the garage.I'm sure there's something about it in there.
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That is indeed a lot of work. Is this how they did it before it was done by a computer?
This is so cool, I would have never imagine you could do it like this. Just a couple of questions. Where did you get your gear data from. like the worm diameter, depth of the worm, throat radius. If you say machineries handbook good job. Another thing, on your hob did you make the slits deeper than the teeth so it would top the wormwheel and cut the throat radius? But otherwise very cool, thanks for sharing.
@myfordboy yea I get that the Minor diameter of the hob made the throat radius, did you make the tooth depth smaller or just go in deeper? Normally with tangential cutters they have topping so that they cut the correct throat radius. Thanks for your reply. Also while im here, did you make the hob larger than the worm you're using so that there is clearance and do you have a back ground in gear cutting? Thanks.
@@sandarelliott5319 This video is 9 years old so I can't remember exactly but I just used the data in that book. I am only a hobby engineer, no formal training.
what metal is the worm wheel? did you cast it yourself? to me it looks like it is aluminum or something softer so that you can use the hob for cutting.
Ego-free demonstration and brilliant work. Your videos have inspired me to set up my own hobby shop at home. I'm a machinist by trade (20 years in manufacturing). My work doesn't allow for moments of creativity such as what is demonstrated in this video. Well done!
Good stuff. I especially appreciate that the only sounds we hear are your tools and work. NO music, No talking, just tool sounds.
I like the silent approach with written comments. Very clear and concise. Nothing over-explained. Very nice work!
myfordboy,
You're a genius. I'm an Air Craft mechanic. I've -always- wondered how "parts" got made. I just put them together and trouble shoot them. Your channel is the -best- resource I have ever seen. THANK YOU!
The thing I love about your videos is that you make everything look so easy, you avoid the flashy gimmicks in your videos, and you educate people very well...
My only complaint, you dont show where in the machinists handbook such information is and how to derive the angle from the data... but that is a very minor complaint indeed
Whenever I need an idea, tip, or a lesson on how to make something in my workshop, your videos come up. They're a pleasure to watch. Keep up the great work!
I like how you show your hands working the machine. So many videos leave that out, it’s the most interesting part to me
I picked up a Harbor Freight 45861 9 x 20 bench lathe new, a few years ago for about $500 US. About the size of the Myford, just not as refined. I consider mine a work in progress with many upgrades planned. There are several lathes of this size sold by Grizzly and others. A great size for those in need of something larger than the smaller hobby lathes but without the need (or room) for a full size lathe. Love your Myford. It inspires me and gives me something to strive toward on my budget.
Such a great watch on a holiday Monday morning with spicy muffins and a cup of coffee and a great presentation. Thank you for a great start to the day.
It's so good to see a craftsman working.
You have taught me a lot from just 1 video, many thanks.
Slotting the blank gets it turning easily and ensures the correct number of teeth are formed. I have read it is possible to end up with a gear with the wrong number of teeth if you don't do this.
Saw your comment on Kieth Rucker's site. This explains why his original worm wheel was bronze and not like the others. Must have been cut in a similar way using a steel worm gear. Very clever.
You know, I've learned so many things from your videos. This video was a perfect example. I could only guess at how to make a worm gear (let alone a gear cutter) and now I've got the confidence (if not the tools yet) to try making one myself -I need a dividing head. You're one of my best sources of information and I thank you for it.
You might get away without making the slots but slotting the blank ensures it turns when the hob is fed into it. I have heard of failures when this is not done and you can end up with a worm wheel with misformed and the wrong number of teeth.
I don't understand why you don't have more likes. Excellent video. Thank you.
Brilliant! Your expertise and longterm experience shows in the way you turn out the work at at hand . Thanks for sharing!!!!
Starting by cutting helix-angled slits explains a lot. I wondered how a hob got started evenly without some exotic geared connection between the hob and the worm wheel.
The guy makes his own wok tools....
It's just incredible WOOOW!
I really admire your work
Thank you from France!!! 🇫🇷
Outstanding presentation. Couldn't possibly be clearer. Many thanks for taking the time to share!
Wonder what kind of alloy do you use to make the screw cutter? because If I'll have use A1 whit out any annealing for sure that would have became a nice piece of hardened steel popcorn!
Watching you work so swiftly on the lathe is fascinating.
Apparently this video is made when I started to think about making my own gears and worm(wheels), due to lack of tools (funds..) I am still thinking..
This showed me I am thinking the right direction. Thank you very much, nice work.
This gear has a 14.5 deg pressure angle so the tool is ground to that angle. It also needs reliving to alow for the helix angle of the gear. The width of the tip is important to and came from data in a book.
I found it easier to draw the angle with CAD and eyeball against this but the tip needs measuring with a mic.
First let me preface by saying I'm a Journeyman Toolmaker A2. I've always had Hobbs and expanding mandrels at my fingertips.
I've never seen Loctite used like that! I mean I knew it was strong, but i never had the balls to try that!
Second, I've never had the balls to make a hob and back relieve it with a file!..Then use the lathe as my Hobber!....Very impressive!
I really must say, This was the first video that I wasn't pissed off with all the Jack Jawing of the presenter. You got right down to business and made you video...let the work do the talking..anyone worth there salt would be able to figure out what your doing. Not that any of it was hard. Sorry no offense...it's all technique. Technique that I've not in my 35 yr as A2 as ever seen.
Best video I've ever seen....and that saying something.
ME, PE, Journeyman Toolmaker A2,.. 3rd Generation Toolmaker and son of a Major Player/ Senior VP Institution to the industry.
Well Done!.... I'm well pleased!
Thank you for your kind comments.
We model engineers use what we have available were in industry there would be a dedicated machine for each operation.
par4par7 🦁
lindowan123 ,
Yes, sometimes we spend more time patting ourselves on the back, than just saying; “That’s a darned good idea. Congratulations.” And then sign off. Do I need to know about this guy’s childhood and family? No.
Facinating, to see this being done. I always thought that the hob did the entire job. Was surprised, that you roughed-in the teeth first, on your mill. Great information as always. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with all of us.
I worked out the worm wheel size and pitch angle nof worm with information in a book. The hardest part is working out the change wheels necessary to give the lead to cut the thread as it is not a standard pitch.
A method using continous fractions is used and I did find an on line calculator to work out that part.
What's non-standard about 5·730659 tpi ? (4·4323 mm)
Just you wait until I start threading on my milling machine ! (I'm afraid I can't ! - can't wait to find out what random pitches it'll produce :)
96 173.7142857 306.2857143 50.28571429 539.4285714 969.1428571 1714.285714 3062.857143 5394.285714
58.43478261 105.7391304 186.4347826 30.60869565 328.3478261 589.9130435 1043.478261 1864.347826 3283.478261
42 76 134 22 236 424 750 1340 2360
31.25581395 56.55813953 99.72093023 16.37209302 175.627907 315.5348837 558.1395349 997.2093023 1756.27907
24.88888889 45.03703704 79.40740741 13.03703704 139.8518519 251.2592593 444.4444444 794.0740741 1398.518519
17.68421053 32 56.42105263 9.263157895 99.36842105 178.5263158 315.7894737 564.2105263 993.6842105
15.1011236 27.3258427 48.17977528 7.91011236 84.85393258 152.4494382 269.6629213 481.7977528 848.5393258
12.10810811 21.90990991 38.63063063 6.342342342 68.03603604 122.2342342 216.2162162 386.3063063 680.3603604
8.784313725 15.89542484 28.02614379 4.60130719 49.35947712 88.67973856 156.8627451 280.2614379 493.5947712
7.550561798 13.66292135 24.08988764 3.95505618 42.42696629 76.2247191 134.8314607 240.8988764 424.2696629
5.229571984 9.463035019 16.6848249 2.739299611 29.38521401 52.79377432 93.38521401 166.848249 293.8521401
3.96460177 7.174041298 12.64896755 2.076696165 22.27728614 40.02359882 70.79646018 126.4896755 222.7728614
3.201793722 5.793721973 10.21524664 1.677130045 17.99103139 32.32286996 57.17488789 102.1524664 179.9103139
2.247491639 4.066889632 7.170568562 1.177257525 12.62876254 22.68896321 40.13377926 71.70568562 126.2876254
1.874476987 3.391910739 5.980474198 0.9818688982 10.53277545 18.92329149 33.47280335 59.80474198 105.3277545
1.12 2.026666667 3.573333333 0.5866666667 6.293333333 11.30666667 20 35.73333333 62.93333333
There's a 5·79 TPI in there !
5394 TPI is the finest thread - but I've got another bunch of numbers I'd forgotten about ! I've got all these numbers again but multiplied by 1·3559322
I guess all these numbers are approximate in any case from rounding errors from the source data !
I have to make a replacement worm and worm gear for my power feed as both are stripped. May I ask what book you used for the calculations? I don't know the correct blank size for the worm gear or what to grind my cutter to. I can reverse engineer it but I'd rather do some reading and learn how to do it right.
@@LeadedAsbestos Ivan Laws excellent and inexpensive book. Gears and Gear cutting.
@@myfordboy thank you. I will order both. You do some amazing work. Thanks again
very nice and very professional
queston:is it really necessary to cut those slots on gear blank on index head, provided tht you have a hob with cutting edges to controll the rotation,
in my opinion it is not mandatory , but i still need ur expert opinion , pls dp reply
Finally! This is the BEST video about making a worm gear! Thanks you!
I have Ivan Law's book but have not read it in ages. But I do have a question. When you turned down the worm wheel in preparation to gash it with the saw, it looked like the blank was cut parallel to the shaft that it would ride on. When you finished hobbing the worm wheel, the face was concave. Did the hob form this concavity in the gear as it was hobbed, or did you cut it in some how? I cannot see how the hob would have cut the concavity since you only relieved the cutter at the top of the tooth. The concavity looks like it would have been cut with the root of the hobs teeth, but I don't see how. Also, I know that the outer diameter of the blank would be (T+2)/P, but that would be at the center of the worm wheel at the bottom of the concave area. How much is added to this diameter to give the side curved flanks of the teeth on the worm wheel? Or maybe phrased another way, how much was added to the diameter of the blank to allow for the concavity of the face of the worm wheel?
That was a mouth full and I hope my question made sense. Maybe my answers are in Ivan Law's book and I only need to read. But any finger pointing in the right direction would be appreciated sir.
Joe
The blank was tipped a little when gashed to the angle of the worm teeth. The concave cut on the worm wheel is generated because the hob that is fed into it is revolving so it produces the same circular form.
I did not save my calculations but just followed the method shown in the book to give the depth of cut and the required distance between shaft. Nothing is added to the blank diameters.
Thank you sir. I retrieved the book from the shelf and am rereading it now. Maybe I can figure it out. :-) The teeth on the worm wheel being concave is what was throwing me. I couldn't figure out how you got it there. I am most of the way there. I can figure out the linear pitch of the worm and the gears to use to approximate it, the lead angle of the worm to calculate the offset angle of the worm wheel to gash. It was the whole worm wheel diameter with the concave face that was throwing me. Thanks, as always for such great videos.
Joe
You are obviously right about this, but I cannot see how it happens. The cutting part of the hob only cuts in the grooves, not on the outer edge of the gear, or? I guess I'm just too thick to envision this. Wonderful video in any case. Thank you for sharing your excellent work.
I like your video. It gives me hope on a solution. What my problem is that I need a solution is a large electric motor output shaft conversion to go into a smaller hole of a clutch. I've looked around, asked around, and seems machinists don't want to do what seems to be a simple male to female shaft coupling. Basically my electric motor has an 18 point, 1 3/16" diameter, 1.125" long output shaft and I want to broach a sleeve, or internal (female) over it that then has a 7/8 long, 1 point 7/8" diameter output shaft to go into the clutch of my manual transmission of my GMC Tracker. I don't know if I should try and make a plastic mold and send it to someone, or try and take a piece of stock and broach it with no real tools. I kind of feel like giving up after handing my clutch and motor to several machinists who put them on their shelf and never did anything with them and only returned them after I called and came over several times. Not sure what the issue is. Any help would be appreciated, Jon.
The collet chuck holds the work more concentric than a 3 jaw and provides a stronger grip too.
Congratulations, well done.
But why cut rotation anti clockwise?
Has a why?
A hug from Brazil
That was pretty impressive. I've since watched a few other videos. You make that relatively basic lathe dance and do tricks that a lot of machinists couldn't do with the fanciest modern ones. I love the "This may not be the textbook way, but it's a way that works and gets the job done with what I have." attitude. Most would probably pin the hobb to the mandrel or some such, you just glued the darn thing and got to work. I also like that you don't waste a lot of time worrying about measurements beyond 'it's close enough'.
CrimFerret i
Excellent technique. Very well done. I do agree with the comment about buying on from, presumably, Boston Gear.
That lathe sounds like the one I worked with as a kid at home. I thought the speed used turning drill rod was high.i had to run the old lathe much slower. I did not have carbide cutting tools.
Your videos are the only ones I've seen with so many up votes and zero down votes. Well done matey, you're a true engineer.
Just incredible, exactly what I need to make fine feed for my homemade mini mill. Going to attach the worm gear to the quill and the worm screw will fine feed adjust it! Thank you so much.
Sir, I do like your idea for a collet chuck. After spending my life in shops and tool rooms in the U.S., it always intrigues me to see the processes, and machinery that are customary in other parts of the world. Sadly, the American machine tool builders did not keep the tee slotted cross slide.
Your hobbling video is educational and entertaining. I thank you.
The gear has a pressure angle of 14.5 deg so the cutting tool has an angle of 29 deg. If this is what you are asking.
I used to watch gear hobbing machines making gears for massive marine gearboxes. I used to collect old foundry patterns for firewood, and they were works of art and I wish I'd kept some of them now.
How did you extract the mandrel from the hob?
I have cut steel ones like this so bronze and iron are fine. \If you are using a standard pitch wheel, mine was 48 teeth 18DP thenpitch never works out bto a standard pitch . You have to calculate the lead an set up changewheel to cut it. The one in the video has a lead of 0.1745"
I know this has been around for awhile but new to me. Great video. I have a need to make this so very timely. Thanks
Hi myfordboy from the U.S.A. Great vids. My question is. When you were cutting gear by running lathe forward then reverse I thought that was impossible because every lathe has some back lash. Does your lathe have zero back lash? Thanks for vids. Keep them coming.
The tool is retracted on the reverse so there was no cut taken, as you say to allow for backlash.
I have been model engineering for30 years and have built up my tools over that period.
Very interesting. Never seen that done in 40 yrs of machining. Thanks!
Interesting as I was fascinated by the machines used to make the components you do. Almost in a way like people descend from people before them these machines were crafted by machines before them. Good stuff.
This is one of the best videos I have seen, especially the "hobbing" process which great to watch. It's no wonder it's had so many views.
Interesting method....How do you determine the OD of the gear blank ?
right, but the tool is cutting up.
If cut down would have problems?
Nice work.
I needed a worm drive, bought it, $30, brass ring gear, steel worm.
But if you needed an odd dimension its good to know to make one.
Toolmaker myself. Your videos bring a lot off skills flooding back. I'm very impressed with the casting video's that you do as well (my wife says ohh no you don't ). Keep up the great videos
Awesome as usual myfordboy. Was cutting the wheel with the hob only possible because you tempered it? I never thought about doing a quick tempering like that. You had some real BTUs roasting that sucker. Was that just water you dropped it in?
Very interesting one. It's good that no music, advertisement in between. 👍👌🌹💕
Beautiful demonstration and it is very helpful to small Pinion sprocket producers specially for instrumentation instrument gears !
Thanks for sharing. Im a machinist also. There lots of trick you can learn. It very helpful from your experience. Cutting special thread on lathe is not easy. You got skills . I wish I can learn using software to program and draw desighn for cnc lathe and milling. I have some cnc experiences and manual.
Wow. I am speechless, wish i was in possession of the skills you show here on your channel. Inspiring, great work!
Great vid, thanks! But how did the negative radius in the gear come about? I'm having trouble understand how the hobb would have cut that part..
Nice job! Why did you manufacture the cutter by yourself? Is it a special pitch?
I like to make all I can. The worm has to be cut anyway and its the same setting as making the hob.
Grate job, as usually. Are the following available:
Diameters calculation for both parts
Angle of the tool (40 Deg. inclusive?)
Distance calculation between the centers of worm and worm-gear, nice mill.
The Old Bob
All the calculations were obtained from the Ivan Law book Gears and Gearcutting.
I can give you the details of the one in the video if you send me you email address. Mine can be found at myfordboy.blogspot.com
nice job could you tell me what the blocks are on your hearth are they special or are they thermolite building blocks thanks for sharing
+david sanderson I am not sure exactly what they are made of. It's a commercial brazing hearth and it was given to me. They are harder than thermolite blocks but softer than firebricks.
Sou torneiro mecânico,e amo muito a profissão.sei que cada dia que passa há uma nova evolução isso é que é importante a mecânica nunca vai parar de evoluir.meus para-bem muito bonito esse trabalho.
Hello myfordboy!!! With great pleasure to watch your videos!
Thank you. All the best to you.
Is the pitch of the hob special or could one be cut on a boxford lathe also do you think you could hob bronze or cast iron ?
I notice you used zero forward tooth rake and very little tooth relief, looks like it spent a lot of time filling up with chip, did that in any way affect the final tooth dimensions?
Cutter worked well.
I really love that T-slotted cross slide on your myford lathe, wish my lathe had one.
enjoyed the skill you are possessing in handling various machines.
Thanks for your comment. The indexer is as bought. I just had to drill holes in the base to suit the spacing of the tee slots in the table.
ohh me han impresionado, usted es un gran artesano, tengo una curiosidad, sería posible utilizar este sistema para hacer un engranaje cónico?, gracias por mostrar su trabajo, saludos
I work on a cnc Gleason Pheonix gear cutting hob and this is more fascinating than the machine i run.
Ricky Reynolds Same thought. Something far more intimate about controlling the process without a computer being an intermediary between yourself and the workpiece.
Tha is slick for a home shop. Nice work. Did you also make the ER chuck?
+phooesnax he 32 er chuck was made from a 6" backplate from Chronos and a collet chuck from Chester tools.
Boy what a bonus that t-slot cross slide is , thanks for the vid
You could also make a double-enveloping worm gear and worm this way, if you hardened the worm gear you made (and made it out of HSS or tool steel) and turned it into a cutter. Food for thought. Great video BTW; I was wondering how one would go about doing this.
Hello , wow that's a great job , my i ask what is that white "thing" did you use when you where hardening the cutter ?
+Nacer Ziani It is ceramic fibre blanket. This stuff really reflects the heat and makes it quicker to get the part red hot. I also used it as an insulator in my oil fired furnace build. Look at the demo at the end of this video th-cam.com/video/ha1fAxgNIRs/w-d-xo.html
What did you use to heat the hob ? I didn't recognize the burner. Seemed to generate a lot of heat fast over a wide area.
It's a Sievert propane torch with a large burner.
The Pitch Circle Diameter (PCD) of a gear is the point between the high and low points that is the theoretical equivalent diameter of a set of simple wheels. Gear teeth reach across that theoretical line and the two extremes are calculated from that median point called the PCD. The outer diameter is less critical than you would think as the highest and lowest points never contact. It is a good place for lubrication to reside.
Do you think you could have keyed the hob, or will the loctite hold up over use, heat, and time?
Hello Myfordboy
Very good video. I wanted to know if you would sell me 1 of your worm drives. I make wooden automatas and I was planning on using your part to copy, using a router. I only need the worm not the wheel. The size in the video would be fine. I would need a 10mm hole centre.
regards
Tim
Your channel sir is a gold mine of knowledge! 👏👍 Thanks for sharing!
The concave edges on the worm wheel are formed to the same diametre as the hob. Same way you would get a concave surface if an end mill is feed in sideways to the work.
As always, another great vid!! I've learned quite a bit from you. Much appreciated. Now, if you could just keep the talking to a minimum . . .
You’re right...it’s kinda hard to stay focused on the project when he talks so much. Lol
How do you determine the diameter of the gear?
Multiplying the pitch of the worm by the desired teeth count would give you the diameter of the gear?
Let's say i have a 1.25mm pitch on the worm, and i want a gear with 60 teeth, is it correct to affirm that my gear should have a diameter of 60x1.25 which is equals to 75mm?
That would work but there other factors like the gear diameters if you want the centres of the gears to be a specified difference. There is also the helix angle to calculate.
Recommended reading is Ivan Law's book " Gears and gear cutting"
que gran video.. todos los procesos desde la fabricacion del tornillo sin fin fresa madre... y la corora ...genial -
this is incredible beautiful! you are very talented. good job
can i make the changewheels somehow?
I'll describe it for you here. I don't need to make another so sorry no video.
The V angle in this case is 29 deg as the pressure angle of the gear is 14 1/2 deg.
The tip width is given in charts as .054 for this 18 DP gear.
The V was ground free hand and checked with a protractor. The point is then ground away to give the .054 dimension. The tool was ground from a broken centre drill. It can be rotated in it's holder to give clearance to suit the helix angle of the worm.
How great teacher you are,Salute. I got questions. When you hardening dont you use magnet to check before you dump into oil. At 16.00 Would it be better to tilt indexer front or back a little, So the gash will be tilt.
At 15:42 you can see the index has packing under the front edge and is tilted upwards. Why would I use a magnet?
Oh I see now, A magnet is to make sure that steel structure is turned into face center cubic FCC. Which mean it hardenable.
Hi, great video, i have one question, is aluminium ok for the gear? Because i am in the stage of making the gear but dont have brass stock. What do you think? Thank you!
My worm wheel is aluminium in this video. Worm is steel. two different metals is best for wear.
Yes i saw that, i just want to know if the aluminium gear is ok, if it resist in time. Because most gears in worm gears are made of steel and brass.
@@rcalin9354 it's fine for the application I used, slow speed and load. Brass and steel would be better for a bigger load.
Ok, thank you for your time and reply!
Another amazing and educational video. Myfordboy, your work is very inspiring, and some day, I hope to try some of the things your have demonstrated. Many thanks!
Could you make the cutter and the actual worm at the same time in the lathe on one arbor? That way would only require one setup and the cutter and worm would be exactly the same size and geometry.
You could do that but the reason I did it this way was,
The cutter was made of silver steel and the worm mild steel, making them separately means a shorter work price so less chance of flex.
You are good, real good. I can't imagine the time it took to learn the specifics.
Did you make the mill indexer? it looks very simple to build.
+musicmaneman38 No, it's a commercial tool known as a spin indexer.
The material is siver steel, known as drill rod in the US.
Great video! I have one question. Why did you use a hand file for the cutter relief instead of using the mill? I ask because I'm handicapped and would find it difficult or impossible to cut the relief with a hand file. Thank you.
I probably found it easy to use a file, it was a while ago i made this. If you are unable to do this I expect a way to machine it could be devised.
@@myfordboy Thanks
The only thing I would do differently is to make the worm and hob as one part up through cutting the thread. Then cut in half and continue with cutting teeth on hob. Save a bit of time and maybe improve match between them. Amazed that you got away without tempering the hob…that wheel is one soft casting!
How do you determine what the wheel diameter has to be for a given gear pitch/diameter?If the diameter is off,the pitch won't make a complete circle,right?Also,would you measure the major or minor diameter of the thread on the wheel?Thank You!!!BTW,personally I still wouldn't trust just the Loctite,I would warm the gear and chill the shaft,but that's just me.
It's too detailed to describe here. All the info is in the very inexpensive book "Gears and gearcutting" by Ivan law.
myfordboy Thanks,I will look that up.I also remembered a have a Machinery Handbook from the 1940's stuck somewhere in the garage.I'm sure there's something about it in there.
That is indeed a lot of work. Is this how they did it before it was done by a computer?
Well done! Thanks for sharing :)
How long time do you wait for the adhesive (638) to set?
This is so cool, I would have never imagine you could do it like this. Just a couple of questions. Where did you get your gear data from. like the worm diameter, depth of the worm, throat radius. If you say machineries handbook good job. Another thing, on your hob did you make the slits deeper than the teeth so it would top the wormwheel and cut the throat radius? But otherwise very cool, thanks for sharing.
All the data came from Ivan laws book: Gears and gear cutting, highly recomended. The dia of the hob created the radius for the worm wheel.
@myfordboy yea I get that the Minor diameter of the hob made the throat radius, did you make the tooth depth smaller or just go in deeper? Normally with tangential cutters they have topping so that they cut the correct throat radius. Thanks for your reply. Also while im here, did you make the hob larger than the worm you're using so that there is clearance and do you have a back ground in gear cutting? Thanks.
@@sandarelliott5319 This video is 9 years old so I can't remember exactly but I just used the data in that book. I am only a hobby engineer, no formal training.
@@myfordboy oh yep sorry my bad 😂 good job though
what metal is the worm wheel? did you cast it yourself? to me it looks like it is aluminum or something softer so that you can use the hob for cutting.
Worm wheel is aluminium I cast.
What's the end result and difference between water quenching and oil quenching?
Thanks for another fine tutorial.