Worm gears give very high gear ratios and thus torque. In this video I made a simple model using a bolt as a worm wheel. / maciej-nowak-962547184 / mn.projects
@@jaakkopontinen or, just dont show your fucked up bit of the gear on video that might also be the case. he made it out of brass anyways so its totally useless
@@higamerXD Not really. It's common to have a bronze ring gear. One, it will protect the motor since it will strip first, and it's a stronger gear to make out of brass compared to the pinion worm gear. Bronze is actually quite strong. Plus, it will hold oil better compared to steel.
I have done this on mills too. It is a very good method to create custom worm gear sets. You get very good engagement as well. I had to make these type of gear sets for scientific instruments. No one made the sizes and gear ratio I needed. Nice video and methods
@@adityarane5735 As Anel Pasic said, it's vary rare to find a wheel gear that isn't brass or bronze unless it's special purpose. That is your wear gear. Normally, the wheel gear is attached to another gear that leads into further gear reduction to handle even more torque if so desired.
I have been a Tool & Die maker for over 50 years but I want to commend you on your skill and ability to make such a fine project with so little. Your methods at times scare me as far as safety goes and your fingers as holding things with your hands can lead to the loss of fingers and I have seen eyes put out in machine shops I have worked in but still I have never seen so much made with so little. ' We used to have a saying when I worked at Arizona State University in the Physics Machine Shop for 20 years before I retired. "We the willing, lead by the unknowing, are doing the impossible for the ungrateful. We have done so much for so long with so little that we are now qualified to anything with nothing at all"! You personify that statement! You Rock my friend and I say Kudos to you. What a beautiful job you did with rudimentary tools. Your ingenuity is to be admired. It takes a person with knowledge of such devices (worm and worm wheel) to appreciate what you have done. The unknowing will just look at it and see nothing. Truly, beauty is in the eyes of the beholder. The knowing will see beauty in every step. The unknowing will just stare like a deer in a headlight. Take care and keep up the good work. Maximus has spoken.
taps are a certain number of threads per inch or millimeter. As such you calculate the diameter such that the circumference is evenly divisible by the threads per inch/mm of your tap.
Question When that wheel comes around to the original place of starting, What's to say it will line up correctly to the original threads? I think you were lucky, unless you did some serious calculations
this looks amazing. I do wonder just how much strain those smaller threads can take on a single side like that If it can take a few thousand pounds without deforming the threads this would be an amazingly useful bit of kit to have.
The guy most obviously knows what he's doing. I pretty sure he understands loads in respect to the application. I believe he made it more for the need of the ratio and not the output force seeing that's what he cited in text.
@@TechieTard Myself, I would have used aluminum bronze , it's really tough. And for the bearing bosses..... I was kinda hoping he was using a digital readout on the X and Y axis' of the mill....... The back lash on the threads seems a bit excessive..... say 20 thou instead of maybe 3 or 4 thou.... meaning I would have used a fly-cutter to get the bosses dead-center for proper back-lash clearances..... but then, that's just me being a fuss-budget, lol.
Very nice! It should be said though that not all worm gears have a locked output gear. I currently have a 15:1 gear in front of me which is actually back-driveable. Just so no one builds a dangerous machine based on the information in the video.
Great job! How to calculate diameter' gear, if you want a determined number of teeth? And how "pitch" first and last teeth in the first pass? Does it "automatically" match? Thanks.
The gear ratio of the worm gear to the worm wheel cannot be a decimal number! In this case, the worm gear has to spin EXACTLY 110 times for the worm wheel to rotate once.
Very interesting. How did you know how to make the threads on the gear "intersect" at the end? I assume it was a calculation, but how does that get made? I mean, you could take it around once, and it could obviously just start a new threading overlaid on the old one, messing up the point -- the thread had to **exactly** match into itself after one (and each subsequent) revolution of the work gear blank.... even a fraction of an inch of variance would have meant a less than accurate in-fit with each successive revolution, meaning slop... How did you determine what was done/needed?
Could be wrong but I'd think after hand turning it to pilot the threads then having the lathe spin it several hundred times most likely created the path needed based on the positioning (how true/little the tap had any play) it creates a true pattern automatically based on it being a circle, plus possibly he just did the math based on thread space/circumference of the circle idk lol :P I'm lonely what can I say.
Nice job. I have a Taiwanese Mill with a very touchy spindle quill drive, 5 deg turn of the handle is about 3th. I am at the moment making a worm wheel and worm gear for it so this video is inspiring. Thank you.
I really like the way you cut the thread on the gear very ingenious. I really did not like the use of epoxy instead of press fit or even snap rings to retain the bearings. But yeah pretty cool. Impressive welding also
@@user735_ I imagine there was either a lot of trial and error or math and measurements we aren't seeing. Probably measurements judging by how good this looked.
You just keep cutting deeper till they align. At a certain depth they will align then deeper they would misaligned and deeper again they would align again. When you have a full thread cut and aligned stop. Saves working out math. That my take on it
How did you manage to get the precision right so there were an integer number of teeth around gear? Since the diameter gets smaller as you cut the ridges deeper did you just keep going until the ridges met in the middle as an integer number, or was it sized specifically/another part of the design process that ensured your brass gear had clean and a flat number of teeth?
Hi ! The idea is good but...... The tool you used to create the teeth on the crown would have to be slightly different. As there is a height difference between the tooth head and the tooth foot, the tool would have to be modified so that the coupling between the screw and the crown was more precise. It may work, but it can't be too demanding on the system.
Very nice.! U know instead of jb weld like u use on ur bearings u can use medium/semi permanent or red/ permanent thread locker with thread locker u have the option to change the bearings if needed in future with a heat gun. That’s how I installed mine when I was building belt pulley ls for belt grinder and it works perfectly till this day and it’s been over a year now almost daily use.
was there a calculation for the diameter of the output wheel, to make sure that the threads lined up properly around the wheel, or was it eyeballed and you just got lucky? using a cutter and dremmel doesn;t seem the most accurate, so i guess it was eyeballed.
i hope I get to do something like that on a lathe at my university. Ive wanted to construct a heavy telescope mount for a long time but an essential part of those is a worm gear (since they spin at around one revolution per 23h 56m)
Следует подшипники винта устанавливать с внутренней стороны обоймы подшипника. И на винту делать ограничители для устранения продольного хождения винта. Потому как при большой нагрузке на винт он будет выходить с посадочных мест под подшипник, и даже с самим подшипником. И у данной конструкции нет возможности регулирования резьбового зазора. Но как наглядное пособие для изготовления ходоуменьшителя сойдёт. 😂
That is an elegant solution. I wonder if you could repeat this exorcise with an acme thread. 😁 Of course a thrust bearing might be of more use in this case.
Wow, that is the most effed up way I've ever seen a gear cut, and it worked just fine. Props.
Yeah it just happened to align :D
@@jaakkopontinen ive been trying to figure out how he got it to align nicely too
Trial / error /luck. Or perhaps math (diameter vs pitch), but that would, of course, require veeery precise calibration and settings on the lathe.
@@jaakkopontinen or, just dont show your fucked up bit of the gear on video that might also be the case. he made it out of brass anyways so its totally useless
@@higamerXD Not really. It's common to have a bronze ring gear. One, it will protect the motor since it will strip first, and it's a stronger gear to make out of brass compared to the pinion worm gear. Bronze is actually quite strong. Plus, it will hold oil better compared to steel.
I have done this on mills too. It is a very good method to create custom worm gear sets. You get very good engagement as well. I had to make these type of gear sets for scientific instruments. No one made the sizes and gear ratio I needed. Nice video and methods
Shout out to the people including me who has no lathe🤣🤣🤣🤣
Можно попробовать на токарном по дереву
I spent fifty years in toolrooms, building stamping dies, injection molds, and lots of prototype gizmos. I am very impressed.
На вид так всё просто, а ка же пятно контакта, регулировки осей и перпендикулярностей? Но посадить подшипники на смолу это интеоесное решение.
Дуракам закон не писан.
It’s been a pleasure viewing your gears, young man. Thank for the performance.
MAN! Man! MAN!!! This is genius! Using a common threading bit and a lathe... oh boy I will make so many worm reductors now lol THANK YOU!
Now my elevator may not go to the top floor all the time, but I have a sneaking suspicion you might have a little sarcasm in that tone of yours.
I doubt the strength of brass gear teeth.
It wont be able to bear high torques.
You will need high strength materials and also axial load bearings.
@@adityarane5735 Most worm gears are made from either brass or bronze.
You are underestimating the shear strength of those two materials.
How do you calculate the diameter?
@@adityarane5735 As Anel Pasic said, it's vary rare to find a wheel gear that isn't brass or bronze unless it's special purpose. That is your wear gear. Normally, the wheel gear is attached to another gear that leads into further gear reduction to handle even more torque if so desired.
Using threading tap is a briliant idea. Thanks for the film!
I am so thankful to have come across this wonderful,amazing, video. Thank you very much!!!!
I have been a Tool & Die maker for over 50 years but I want to commend you on your skill and ability to make such a fine project with so little.
Your methods at times scare me as far as safety goes and your fingers as holding things with your hands can lead to the loss of fingers and I have seen eyes put out in machine shops I have worked in but still I have never seen so much made with so little.
'
We used to have a saying when I worked at Arizona State University in the Physics Machine Shop for 20 years before I retired.
"We the willing, lead by the unknowing, are doing the impossible for the ungrateful.
We have done so much for so long with so little that we are now qualified to anything with nothing at all"!
You personify that statement!
You Rock my friend and I say Kudos to you. What a beautiful job you did with rudimentary tools. Your ingenuity is to be admired. It takes a person with knowledge of such devices (worm and worm wheel) to appreciate what you have done. The unknowing will just look at it and see nothing.
Truly, beauty is in the eyes of the beholder. The knowing will see beauty in every step. The unknowing will just stare like a deer in a headlight.
Take care and keep up the good work.
Maximus has spoken.
Thank you ! MISTER MAUDESLAY !! / VAUCANSEN !!!
Excellent job, after long time working I learned something completly new. Thanks
Beautiful work, brother. Well made!
wow... extremly professional
I don't understand how there can be people who don't like this work of yours, it's GREAT, very professional, greetings from Punta Umbría-Huelva.
Great job very professional. Respect for you genius. 👏👏👏
Very nicely done. Might be a good idea to cover the ways of the lathe when using the Dremel.
Love the project for my little shop. Good job man.
Amazing work.
Thank you
Well, 'I learned something new. Thanks for the upload.
Professionals Always Professionals keep it up 👌👌✌✌👉👉👍👍🤝
Brilliant Mechanical Work 👌👌👌
Great vid. How did you position the drive gear in the housing to obtain an accurate backlash on the worm?
Wow! - projekt jest genialny i zrobiony bardzo estetycznie, na pewno wypróbuję
Impressive work!
Awesome work sir, keep up a good work sir, appreciating from the Philippines
how do you calculate the diameter in order to avoid a thread mismatch at the end of the work?
taps are a certain number of threads per inch or millimeter. As such you calculate the diameter such that the circumference is evenly divisible by the threads per inch/mm of your tap.
@@therestorationshop right
Pie is good, very tasty, everyone loves pie.... you guys like pie? Apple pie... cherry pie... shoe fly pie... mmmmmm mmmmmm love me some PI !
Good question and best answer too.
You do beautiful work. You're a freaking genius...
Very cool. Love the shop.
Question
When that wheel comes around to the original place of starting, What's to say it will line up correctly to the original threads?
I think you were lucky, unless you did some serious calculations
I'm not a machinist but I assume you could get your tap TPI, multiply it by a certain factor and that's your disc circumference
Excellent work
You are a”REAL” boss, thanks.
You’re making it look way too easy, I just wish it was for everyone, awesome!
nicely done...good job
this looks amazing. I do wonder just how much strain those smaller threads can take on a single side like that If it can take a few thousand pounds without deforming the threads this would be an amazingly useful bit of kit to have.
well, he did take brass so realistically this is only a desk decor piece as the brass could never take any amount of real force
Won't take much over time.
The guy most obviously knows what he's doing. I pretty sure he understands loads in respect to the application. I believe he made it more for the need of the ratio and not the output force seeing that's what he cited in text.
@@TechieTard Myself, I would have used aluminum bronze , it's really tough.
And for the bearing bosses..... I was kinda hoping he was using a digital readout on the X and Y axis' of the mill....... The back lash on the threads seems a bit excessive..... say 20 thou instead of maybe 3 or 4 thou.... meaning I would have used a fly-cutter to get the bosses dead-center for proper back-lash clearances..... but then, that's just me being a fuss-budget, lol.
Very nice! It should be said though that not all worm gears have a locked output gear. I currently have a 15:1 gear in front of me which is actually back-driveable. Just so no one builds a dangerous machine based on the information in the video.
Very impressive!
Great job! How to calculate diameter' gear, if you want a determined number of teeth?
And how "pitch" first and last teeth in the first pass? Does it "automatically" match?
Thanks.
Very good idea. Thank you.
The gear ratio of the worm gear to the worm wheel cannot be a decimal number! In this case, the worm gear has to spin EXACTLY 110 times for the worm wheel to rotate once.
Very amazing work
I can't believe what great job you did ! You're just AWESOME
Great design nice thank you so much sir.
świetna robota ładnie wyszło
Thank you for not just blasting music during the video.
Excellent engineering skills . A pleasure to view your detailed work . . Keep up the excellent work and content . Amazing quality work .
Oooh, that's practical engineering!😀😀😀
Very interesting. How did you know how to make the threads on the gear "intersect" at the end? I assume it was a calculation, but how does that get made? I mean, you could take it around once, and it could obviously just start a new threading overlaid on the old one, messing up the point -- the thread had to **exactly** match into itself after one (and each subsequent) revolution of the work gear blank.... even a fraction of an inch of variance would have meant a less than accurate in-fit with each successive revolution, meaning slop... How did you determine what was done/needed?
Could be wrong but I'd think after hand turning it to pilot the threads then having the lathe spin it several hundred times most likely created the path needed based on the positioning (how true/little the tap had any play) it creates a true pattern automatically based on it being a circle, plus possibly he just did the math based on thread space/circumference of the circle idk lol :P I'm lonely what can I say.
Beautiful job. You make it look so simple. I know it isn’t.
Świetna robota! Genialny i prosty sposób z gwintownikiem! Pozdrawiam!
Great job, Great Video.
Nice job. I have a Taiwanese Mill with a very touchy spindle quill drive, 5 deg turn of the handle is about 3th. I am at the moment making a worm wheel and worm gear for it so this video is inspiring. Thank you.
How did you determine the radius or diameter of the wheel to allow the tap to fit perfectly along the circumference?
I have an impression that he continued until it fit :)
Spectacular! Amazing! this will be the base for a lathe divider with Arduino and stepper motor.
Compliments for your idea and your work
You just added a tool to my kit bag. Thank you!!
I´d so much loved to learn things like that. Metal working is a nice hobby.
I really like the way you cut the thread on the gear very ingenious. I really did not like the use of epoxy instead of press fit or even snap rings to retain the bearings. But yeah pretty cool. Impressive welding also
Really cool. So many techniques in this video I wouldn't think of.
How did all the threads line up so perfectly? Don't you have to choose the diameter very precisly?
Yeah, I wonder that too. At the end of the threading process don't know how they align OK to close the loop
@@user735_ I imagine there was either a lot of trial and error or math and measurements we aren't seeing. Probably measurements judging by how good this looked.
You just keep cutting deeper till they align. At a certain depth they will align then deeper they would misaligned and deeper again they would align again. When you have a full thread cut and aligned stop. Saves working out math. That my take on it
How did you manage to get the precision right so there were an integer number of teeth around gear? Since the diameter gets smaller as you cut the ridges deeper did you just keep going until the ridges met in the middle as an integer number, or was it sized specifically/another part of the design process that ensured your brass gear had clean and a flat number of teeth?
Damn good question, just like knurling, sometimes you get lucky. If he did calculate the number of teeth he's keeping it a secret.
@@kenparkerarchtoppery9440 Now I'm gonna fall down the rabbit hole of knurling videos lol, thanks Ken. Hope you've been well
I like the vice on your drill press
Thanks for the video!
It would be nice to know what made you take this approach!
So clearly explained!
No comment. Super work
Me: I wonder what kind of $3000 tool he will use to make those threads.
Him: hand tap
Me: .....ITS SO BEAUTIFUL
Fantastic project. Looks like you got the start and finish of the threads on the wheel to meet up perfectly. How did you do that?
Circumference divided by the thread pitch must be an integer and then it works.
@@marcelbron6128 Thanks!
it's beautiful, I love it
Hi !
The idea is good but......
The tool you used to create the teeth on the crown would have to be slightly different.
As there is a height difference between the tooth head and the tooth foot, the tool would have to be modified so that the coupling between the screw and the crown was more precise.
It may work, but it can't be too demanding on the system.
in order for the threads to meet properly at 360* how do you know what the driven gear diameter would be before cutting the worm gear teeth?
great job sir a big greeting from casablanca "morocco"
Nice work! We posted this video on our homemade tools forum this week :)
Brilliant 👏
Very nice.! U know instead of jb weld like u use on ur bearings u can use medium/semi permanent or red/ permanent thread locker with thread locker u have the option to change the bearings if needed in future with a heat gun. That’s how I installed mine when I was building belt pulley ls for belt grinder and it works perfectly till this day and it’s been over a year now almost daily use.
Better welds than I could do....Nice job!
иииии подача смазки в такой узел тугой струёй.
Лайк, людям с руками всегда лайк
Your Improvising skills are on point 👍👍
Brilliant!
Great work, beautiful worm gear. When in actual use, it will need some grease.
I would suggest lithium grease for the interface between the gear and the screw.
Ya got a thumbs up from me my friend! 👍. Well done.
I am impressed
Beautiful work.
This makes me want a mini lathe so bad!
Excellent!!!
Kakav si ti genije... Svaka čast!!!
That's so cool!!!
a very nice idea
How did you go about setting the lash between the worm and the gear?
was there a calculation for the diameter of the output wheel, to make sure that the threads lined up properly around the wheel, or was it eyeballed and you just got lucky? using a cutter and dremmel doesn;t seem the most accurate, so i guess it was eyeballed.
I love it. this is so informatif
i hope I get to do something like that on a lathe at my university. Ive wanted to construct a heavy telescope mount for a long time but an essential part of those is a worm gear (since they spin at around one revolution per 23h 56m)
Yes. This will work neatly on a tracking mount.
You sir are a master machinist, that sir was art🤌
Super work I like it
Beautiful work! 👍
Excellent !!!
Well done ✔
Beautiful
very good idea...............
Nice video, thanks :)
Did you calculate the diameter for the worm face, or was it just luck that the teeth happened to mesh again after the full revolution?
Fantastic idea.💡💡💡 Super job!👍👍👍
Следует подшипники винта устанавливать с внутренней стороны обоймы подшипника. И на винту делать ограничители для устранения продольного хождения винта. Потому как при большой нагрузке на винт он будет выходить с посадочных мест под подшипник, и даже с самим подшипником. И у данной конструкции нет возможности регулирования резьбового зазора. Но как наглядное пособие для изготовления ходоуменьшителя сойдёт. 😂
That is an elegant solution.
I wonder if you could repeat this exorcise with an acme thread. 😁
Of course a thrust bearing might be of more use in this case.
Looks ideal for a homemade power cross feed for the milling machine.
Indeed.
Edit - Speed rate change would be as easy as four bolts.
@@davidcarter2368 yes, good point.