I use Molykote G-n Metal Assembly Paste for barrel installation and other areas one might use Aeroshell 64.. It is what Colt uses at the factory for barrel installation.. Very easy to apply from the tube it comes in and is not as runny or messy as using grease.. AR15 tectipinunder5minutes had a great video on using a drill bit as a gauge and a chucking reamer to fix any miss alignment when installing a gas tube in a gas block ... I enjoy watching your videos, you do things right..
Thanks! I've watched his videos for some time! Has a lot of good stuff and I've learned a few things from his channel! Don't be like me! Lol! Use Moly! I'll look into what your'e using! Thanks again!
I honestly didn't know that about the snap ring.So I don't know which way it's on but I don't intend to take the handguards off very often. But I'll be careful with that if I do.
@@davidschaadt3460 It's nothing to worry about but in many other applications like automotive, aviation, marine.... it could become important because of the constant thrust.
@@davidschaadt3460 I actually got a starter *after* my last build so I never got to try it out yet. So far the starter and punches for the bolt catch roll pin and forward assist roll pin have worked perfectly though. But I also used coiled pins and not roll pins.
I Like Your “Subliminal”Assembly Tips Pete I Think You Found The Secret TH-cam Algorithm Code Bypass 😀😊😀 This Rifle Is Really Cool All Around Perfect Rifle 😀 😊
This platform has taken down a number of my older videos and threatened the channel with deletion. A few of them were very detailed from start to finish and I spent some time on them. They didn't like that! If you piece meal the videos and don't show to much all at once that seems to work and keeps them from pissing their pants! Thanks Chris!
Great program! I just did a Retro CAR -15 build. And i had no idea about the snap ring. But I'm not planning to take the handguards off anytime soon so I'll take my chances .i used mostly Brownells parts. But i got the pencil barrel in 1/7 twist chrome lined ,instead of the 1/12 . It looks and shoots great🏆🪖🏆
On an AR the snap ring orientation probably isn't hugely important but I just thought I would mention that in most applications it could matter. Thanks for watching and commenting David!
@@peteregger7928... I saw a video, maybe from artechtipsunder5 not sure though. Like the weld spring orientation but on replacing gas rings with same principle. Have you heard or experienced that? Thanks
@@Allenmar73 I install the weld spring snap ring with the sharp edge facing towards the rear in the barrel nut groove. This will help keep the snap ring from walking out of the barrel nut groove when force is applied. More force there than you might think especially when using the tool to compress the delta for hand guard install or removal. That area can require a lot of force on some rifles. Snap ring orientation has always been important on mechanical, industrial or transportation equipment when any thrust is applied towards the snap ring. The sharp edge should face in the same direction as the thrust. My old Suzuki dirt bike manual has a caution note about it in the transmission section. I was also taught this when going to college for my Federal Aviation Airframe and Power Plant license (A&P) back in the mid 90's and first learned of this back in the mid 70's when attending Navy jet engine school.
Yes! This is my first Criterion A2 Govt. profile for builds. I have two A2 Govt. profile Windham Weaponry's one being a 1:9 and the other a 1:7. I have a few Criterion Hybrids and three Criterion HBARs. I think at one time Criterion offered other twist rates but seems all the newer offerings are 1:8 unless I missed it. Thanks Allen!
Thanks, Pete! That is exactly the info I needed on the alignment tool! Yes sir, a great comeback if I've ever heard one! I look forward to your next range trip.
I'm not sure you can find an original anymore unless someone may have one for sale. I think reproduced copies may still be available somewhere? If you want TDP specs go to Gatalog.com. Click on "Technical Data Packages". You will be redirected to Odysee. Click on "Content". M4A1 thumbnail should populate at the upper top left. M16 will be at the bottom right of the page. They're in PDF format so you should be able to print them.
Hello again Pete from N. GA. Dang, I'm so full of questions, advice seeking and wanting to borrow money I don't know where to begin! J.K. on the loan request! I like your choice of anti-seize grease, I see the copper stuff on Brownells and the "lipstick" tube, both for $8-$10. That Aero shell 65 is expensive and I can't find it in a small quantity, so I'll just use your kind. I never knew until today PSA offered a PSA brand A2 build kit with the actual A2 fixed carry handle upper! It was $5 something and the PSA M16A2 U.S. Gov't. property marked stripped lower for $59.99 looks pretty good for a total of under $700. What's your opinion on that? I ordered a N.C. Star Vism lower vise block from Hinterland Outfitters today for $23.61. I thought that was a rare bargain! I watched AR tech tips under 5 min. showing his homemade FSB alignment tool. He showed 3 sizes, Pistol, carbine & rifle length and the tubing necessary from McMaster-Carr. With one 3" length of the 1/2" O.D. and one of the 3/8" O.D. with the 9/64" center alignment punch. With those materials he could make both the pistol and the carbine length tool. The rifle length tool required using all of those materials with nothing left for a shorter version. The materials cost $71.28 + tax and S & H. O.k. now, at BRD Engineering this tool is $100 + tax and S & H. I see nothing on BRD's site saying their tool is only for certain size barrels, so I assume it works on all 3 AR types, AR tips man said he improved on BRD's tool by making his own. I wondered your thoughts on this, as well. I had seen your vid where you used your similar tool and said you made it yourself, but you didn't elaborate. I wondered how you made it and materials used. Lastly, a few bargains I've seen lately: Grab A Gun has Midwest Industries drop in carbine quad rail for $118.99 and MI URR upper receiver rod for $94 & change. B. King's Firearms has RRA's side mount sling swivel for $32.99. I like your A2 rifles, they're my favorite! Thanks for the videos, Pete, just send me a bill for all your time and sharing your knowledge, and have a great week, Pete. I'm looking forward to you taking this rifle to the range!
I didn't have any issues dimensionally with the PSA $59 US Govt. stripped lower in this build but the anodize was inconsistent and rough in places with some color variation! The H&R branded stuff I used on the previous A2 build was much better finished but it's also quite a bit more! I made my sight alignment tool so that it would work with the rear sight installed and check carbine, mid-length and full length sight bases. If you use precision tubing there will be very little slop if any when telescoping. There has been some talk about graphite being present in most copper anti-seize that can increase the possibility of dissimilar metal corrosion (galvanic) but I have seen no evidence of that. I tested conductivity myself and saw none until the test leads touched using 9 volts. No matter what type of lube you use the extension (steel), barrel nut (steel) will be in contact with the aluminum receiver. In order for corrosion to occur there has to be an electrical path between the anode and cathode differences in the metal. Well they are already touching as previously mentioned. I have used the stuff in different industrial applications between electrical motors which generate eddy currents in the metal and pumps in very wet environments and have never seen any corrosion issues there either. But all that being said I would just use Aeroshell 64 so you'll be ready for the Navy Seals! I got my M.I. Quad rail from Battle Hawk Armory if I remember right for $108. It's the two piece drop in version. Sight tool parts list from McMaster-Carr: Center locating punch 3374A15, 9/64". Inner steel round tubing 89955K729 .120" wall thickness, 3/8" OD. Outer tubing is either 89955K138 (steel) or 1968T74 (aluminum) .058" wall thickness, 1/2" OD. I went with aluminum for the outer tubing.
@@peteregger7928 Thanks a million, Pete! You're a wealth of useful information. Yes sir, I looked up all parts for the sight tool. They are $71.28+ tax and S & H. I also looked up his recommended thumb screws for use on the N.C. Star upper vise block. Do you have one of those? So, did you use AR15 Tech Tips measurements for your tool or determine your own? Thanks, Pete! I almost forgot one question I'd had for you. Do you have an Xm177E1 or E2 you've built by any chance? Or perhaps a GAU5?
@@John-zf5wc I think the NC Star upper vise block would be okay in most cases but I would be nervous about using it when torquing a USGI steel barrel nut especially if you have to get anywhere near the high end torque spec of 80 ft lbs. Much prefer the M.I. Upper Receiver Rod for barrel nuts. I used his measurements for the ID/OD of the tubing but changed the length measurements so it would work with carbine, mid-length and rifle gas with the rear sight still installed. I'm pretty sure he used steel for the outer tubing on his. I used aluminum so there would be less chance of damage to the receiver vs using the steel outer tubing. Carry handle slot dimensions can be a little different so I went and found my tightest one and sanded some very minor flats on two sides of the aluminum outer tube to fit that one or others that may be tighter than 0.500". In this video the back end of the outer tubing was just slightly loose using the non-sanded flats (round part of the tubing). It did not affect the measurement but one layer of scotch tape got it snugged up so it would stay put! I have not ventured beyond A2's... yet!
@@peteregger7928 Thanks, Pete. "Haven't ventured beyond A2's, YET"! LOL! That's beyond cool! I can't hardly wait until you do! I love the aesthetics of the A1's and the XM177E2's, as well as the XM16E1. I mistakenly said I had ordered the N.C. Star upper receiver vise block, when actually it was the lower receiver block. I purchased a Wheeler Clamshell Upper Receiver Block from Midway for $22 and change. I had seen on SOTAR Chad showing preferred upper receiver blocks, MI URR was his favored upper block, but he said the one I got was pretty good. What lower vise block do you like, Pete? I'm going to use the same excuse Timmy Boy used when he attributed his spewing of the false and almost criminally negligent statement on the same weapons of war that he carried in war to being merely a grammatical error to Dana Bash's' question on CNN while serving as Kamala's support idiot in her only public appearance after being anointed as the Democrat nominee for POTUS! LOL, I'm sorry Pete for injecting politics into a discussion about "Assault Weapons"! Dang, there I go again! LOL! O.K., back to the matter at hand. I rewatched your vid about the Criterion barrel and having Retro Arms Works install the FSP and saw your alignment tool you made. Good idea on using aluminum for the outer tube and sanding down two sides. When you have that tool out again and have time, would you please share the measurements for the length of each tube? Also, did you glue or otherwise attach the punch inside the inner tube? Thanks again for your time, Pete and have a fine day and I'll shut up and quit bothering you so dang much!
@@John-zf5wc The vise block I use is a ProMag. It is very tough and durable. Has locking slots on one side so that once it's installed it stays put until you hit the mag release or you can install it the opposite way so that it won't lock into the mag well. It's not the tightest best fitting but works well enough. I think I got it from Midwest Industries when I ordered my URR. Aluminum outer tubing on mine is 13 inches. Steel inner tube is 10". Pin punch protrudes 3/4" and I just used some RTV to keep it in place. I already mentioned it but for the sake of others these dimensions will work for carry handles with a carbine, mid-length or rifle gas position FSB with the rear sight installed. Don't worry about comments or questions! You're not bothering me at all! I'm on this platform to learn from others and share whatever it is that I think I might know. About the only two things I know for sure is that a truly wise man knows that he is not wise and he who hoots with the owls at night cannot always fly with the eagles in the day! Then I told my Leading Petty Officer at the time after thinking about what he said..."he who hoots with the owls at night doesn't give a shit what the eagles do in the day! He said I was the first one to ever have a come back on that one! Lol!
I use Molykote G-n Metal Assembly Paste for barrel installation and other areas one might use Aeroshell 64.. It is what Colt uses at the factory for barrel installation.. Very easy to apply from the tube it comes in and is not as runny or messy as using grease..
AR15 tectipinunder5minutes had a great video on using a drill bit as a gauge and a chucking reamer to fix any miss alignment when installing a gas tube in a gas block ...
I enjoy watching your videos, you do things right..
Thanks! I've watched his videos for some time! Has a lot of good stuff and I've learned a few things from his channel! Don't be like me! Lol! Use Moly! I'll look into what your'e using! Thanks again!
I agree 100% about the Snap Ring, good stuff.
Thanks AR! Might as well put them on right although it's probably not critical for an AR?
I honestly didn't know that about the snap ring.So I don't know which way it's on but I don't intend to take the handguards off very often. But I'll be careful with that if I do.
@@davidschaadt3460 It's nothing to worry about but in many other applications like automotive, aviation, marine.... it could become important because of the constant thrust.
@@davidschaadt3460 👍
Great programs Sir @@peteregger7928
Good job, Pete. I bet that will be a very accurate rifle. Criterion makes great barrels.
Thanks Gary! I've had very good results with Criterion so far!
14:11 I’m pretty sure one of the levels of Hell involves having to install gas tube roll pins for eternity 😂
Ha! Ha! Now that's funny!
I haven't had much trouble with them. I also have the same tool as Mr. Egger. Just plain fun.
I also have the roll pin starter. Very helpful.
@@davidschaadt3460 I actually got a starter *after* my last build so I never got to try it out yet. So far the starter and punches for the bolt catch roll pin and forward assist roll pin have worked perfectly though. But I also used coiled pins and not roll pins.
I'll have to look into the coiled pins. Never tried them.
I really enjoy your detailed programs 🏆🪖🏆
Lovely build. I predict that this will be a pleasure to pew out in the high desert.
Thanks Malcolm! Hard to beat a 20" when they're running right! Finding out soon!
This turned out great. 👍🏻
Thanks Shawn! Should be function testing very soon!
@@peteregger7928yesterday I ran the Travis Manion Foundation 9/11 Memorial 5k. Thought I saw you there.
@@shawnpatten6515 No way I could do a 5K! Lol!
I Like Your “Subliminal”Assembly Tips Pete I Think You Found The Secret TH-cam Algorithm Code Bypass 😀😊😀 This Rifle Is Really Cool All Around Perfect Rifle 😀 😊
This platform has taken down a number of my older videos and threatened the channel with deletion. A few of them were very detailed from start to finish and I spent some time on them. They didn't like that! If you piece meal the videos and don't show to much all at once that seems to work and keeps them from pissing their pants! Thanks Chris!
@@peteregger7928 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Great program! I just did a Retro CAR -15 build. And i had no idea about the snap ring. But I'm not planning to take the handguards off anytime soon so I'll take my chances .i used mostly Brownells parts. But i got the pencil barrel in 1/7 twist chrome lined ,instead of the 1/12 . It looks and shoots great🏆🪖🏆
On an AR the snap ring orientation probably isn't hugely important but I just thought I would mention that in most applications it could matter. Thanks for watching and commenting David!
@@peteregger7928... I saw a video, maybe from artechtipsunder5 not sure though. Like the weld spring orientation but on replacing gas rings with same principle. Have you heard or experienced that? Thanks
@@Allenmar73 I install the weld spring snap ring with the sharp edge facing towards the rear in the barrel nut groove. This will help keep the snap ring from walking out of the barrel nut groove when force is applied. More force there than you might think especially when using the tool to compress the delta for hand guard install or removal. That area can require a lot of force on some rifles. Snap ring orientation has always been important on mechanical, industrial or transportation equipment when any thrust is applied towards the snap ring. The sharp edge should face in the same direction as the thrust. My old Suzuki dirt bike manual has a caution note about it in the transmission section. I was also taught this when going to college for my Federal Aviation Airframe and Power Plant license (A&P) back in the mid 90's and first learned of this back in the mid 70's when attending Navy jet engine school.
Is this going to be your first Criterion gov profile 1:8 wylde 20"? I really appreciate all the work and info you share.
Yes! This is my first Criterion A2 Govt. profile for builds. I have two A2 Govt. profile Windham Weaponry's one being a 1:9 and the other a 1:7. I have a few Criterion Hybrids and three Criterion HBARs. I think at one time Criterion offered other twist rates but seems all the newer offerings are 1:8 unless I missed it. Thanks Allen!
Thanks, Pete! That is exactly the info I needed on the alignment tool! Yes sir, a great comeback if I've ever heard one! I look forward to your next range trip.
Should be up tomorrow morning!
Nice.
Thanks! Function testing soon!
iconic gun, looks sick and brilliant! my IMHO m16a1 looks sexiest than a2
Thanks! An A1 build is definitely on the list!
Those jarheads, whatta they know ?!
Some of them are very devious and cunning! Not to be under estimated! Lol!
Do you know where I can get a copy of that book you where looking in for specs thank you sir for this video its awesome
I'm not sure you can find an original anymore unless someone may have one for sale. I think reproduced copies may still be available somewhere? If you want TDP specs go to Gatalog.com. Click on "Technical Data Packages". You will be redirected to Odysee. Click on "Content". M4A1 thumbnail should populate at the upper top left. M16 will be at the bottom right of the page. They're in PDF format so you should be able to print them.
ebay.
@@SolitaryMaverick Good call!
Thats a round every 4 seconds.
I see so many videos where multiple mag dumps are performed! They must have a much higher new barrel change out budget than I do?
Why have the USMC manual out if your not going to follow it😂😂😂😂
My wife wonders the same thing! 😁
Hello again Pete from N. GA. Dang, I'm so full of questions, advice seeking and wanting to borrow money I don't know where to begin! J.K. on the loan request! I like your choice of anti-seize grease, I see the copper stuff on Brownells and the "lipstick" tube, both for $8-$10. That Aero shell 65 is expensive and I can't find it in a small quantity, so I'll just use your kind. I never knew until today PSA offered a PSA brand A2 build kit with the actual A2 fixed carry handle upper! It was $5 something and the PSA M16A2 U.S. Gov't. property marked stripped lower for $59.99 looks pretty good for a total of under $700. What's your opinion on that? I ordered a N.C. Star Vism lower vise block from Hinterland Outfitters today for $23.61. I thought that was a rare bargain! I watched AR tech tips under 5 min. showing his homemade FSB alignment tool. He showed 3 sizes, Pistol, carbine & rifle length and the tubing necessary from McMaster-Carr. With one 3" length of the 1/2" O.D. and one of the 3/8" O.D. with the 9/64" center alignment punch. With those materials he could make both the pistol and the carbine length tool. The rifle length tool required using all of those materials with nothing left for a shorter version. The materials cost $71.28 + tax and S & H. O.k. now, at BRD Engineering this tool is $100 + tax and S & H. I see nothing on BRD's site saying their tool is only for certain size barrels, so I assume it works on all 3 AR types, AR tips man said he improved on BRD's tool by making his own. I wondered your thoughts on this, as well. I had seen your vid where you used your similar tool and said you made it yourself, but you didn't elaborate. I wondered how you made it and materials used. Lastly, a few bargains I've seen lately: Grab A Gun has Midwest Industries drop in carbine quad rail for $118.99 and MI URR upper receiver rod for $94 & change. B. King's Firearms has RRA's side mount sling swivel for $32.99. I like your A2 rifles, they're my favorite! Thanks for the videos, Pete, just send me a bill for all your time and sharing your knowledge, and have a great week, Pete. I'm looking forward to you taking this rifle to the range!
I didn't have any issues dimensionally with the PSA $59 US Govt. stripped lower in this build but the anodize was inconsistent and rough in places with some color variation! The H&R branded stuff I used on the previous A2 build was much better finished but it's also quite a bit more! I made my sight alignment tool so that it would work with the rear sight installed and check carbine, mid-length and full length sight bases. If you use precision tubing there will be very little slop if any when telescoping. There has been some talk about graphite being present in most copper anti-seize that can increase the possibility of dissimilar metal corrosion (galvanic) but I have seen no evidence of that. I tested conductivity myself and saw none until the test leads touched using 9 volts. No matter what type of lube you use the extension (steel), barrel nut (steel) will be in contact with the aluminum receiver. In order for corrosion to occur there has to be an electrical path between the anode and cathode differences in the metal. Well they are already touching as previously mentioned. I have used the stuff in different industrial applications between electrical motors which generate eddy currents in the metal and pumps in very wet environments and have never seen any corrosion issues there either. But all that being said I would just use Aeroshell 64 so you'll be ready for the Navy Seals! I got my M.I. Quad rail from Battle Hawk Armory if I remember right for $108. It's the two piece drop in version. Sight tool parts list from McMaster-Carr: Center locating punch 3374A15, 9/64". Inner steel round tubing 89955K729 .120" wall thickness, 3/8" OD. Outer tubing is either 89955K138 (steel) or 1968T74 (aluminum) .058" wall thickness, 1/2" OD. I went with aluminum for the outer tubing.
@@peteregger7928 Thanks a million, Pete! You're a wealth of useful information. Yes sir, I looked up all parts for the sight tool. They are $71.28+ tax and S & H. I also looked up his recommended thumb screws for use on the N.C. Star upper vise block. Do you have one of those? So, did you use AR15 Tech Tips measurements for your tool or determine your own? Thanks, Pete! I almost forgot one question I'd had for you. Do you have an Xm177E1 or E2 you've built by any chance? Or perhaps a GAU5?
@@John-zf5wc I think the NC Star upper vise block would be okay in most cases but I would be nervous about using it when torquing a USGI steel barrel nut especially if you have to get anywhere near the high end torque spec of 80 ft lbs. Much prefer the M.I. Upper Receiver Rod for barrel nuts. I used his measurements for the ID/OD of the tubing but changed the length measurements so it would work with carbine, mid-length and rifle gas with the rear sight still installed. I'm pretty sure he used steel for the outer tubing on his. I used aluminum so there would be less chance of damage to the receiver vs using the steel outer tubing. Carry handle slot dimensions can be a little different so I went and found my tightest one and sanded some very minor flats on two sides of the aluminum outer tube to fit that one or others that may be tighter than 0.500". In this video the back end of the outer tubing was just slightly loose using the non-sanded flats (round part of the tubing). It did not affect the measurement but one layer of scotch tape got it snugged up so it would stay put! I have not ventured beyond A2's... yet!
@@peteregger7928 Thanks, Pete. "Haven't ventured beyond A2's, YET"! LOL! That's beyond cool! I can't hardly wait until you do! I love the aesthetics of the A1's and the XM177E2's, as well as the XM16E1. I mistakenly said I had ordered the N.C. Star upper receiver vise block, when actually it was the lower receiver block. I purchased a Wheeler Clamshell Upper Receiver Block from Midway for $22 and change. I had seen on SOTAR Chad showing preferred upper receiver blocks, MI URR was his favored upper block, but he said the one I got was pretty good. What lower vise block do you like, Pete? I'm going to use the same excuse Timmy Boy used when he attributed his spewing of the false and almost criminally negligent statement on the same weapons of war that he carried in war to being merely a grammatical error to Dana Bash's' question on CNN while serving as Kamala's support idiot in her only public appearance after being anointed as the Democrat nominee for POTUS! LOL, I'm sorry Pete for injecting politics into a discussion about "Assault Weapons"! Dang, there I go again! LOL! O.K., back to the matter at hand. I rewatched your vid about the Criterion barrel and having Retro Arms Works install the FSP and saw your alignment tool you made. Good idea on using aluminum for the outer tube and sanding down two sides. When you have that tool out again and have time, would you please share the measurements for the length of each tube? Also, did you glue or otherwise attach the punch inside the inner tube? Thanks again for your time, Pete and have a fine day and I'll shut up and quit bothering you so dang much!
@@John-zf5wc The vise block I use is a ProMag. It is very tough and durable. Has locking slots on one side so that once it's installed it stays put until you hit the mag release or you can install it the opposite way so that it won't lock into the mag well. It's not the tightest best fitting but works well enough. I think I got it from Midwest Industries when I ordered my URR. Aluminum outer tubing on mine is 13 inches. Steel inner tube is 10". Pin punch protrudes 3/4" and I just used some RTV to keep it in place. I already mentioned it but for the sake of others these dimensions will work for carry handles with a carbine, mid-length or rifle gas position FSB with the rear sight installed. Don't worry about comments or questions! You're not bothering me at all! I'm on this platform to learn from others and share whatever it is that I think I might know. About the only two things I know for sure is that a truly wise man knows that he is not wise and he who hoots with the owls at night cannot always fly with the eagles in the day! Then I told my Leading Petty Officer at the time after thinking about what he said..."he who hoots with the owls at night doesn't give a shit what the eagles do in the day! He said I was the first one to ever have a come back on that one! Lol!