I think it's misleading to talk about the bottom adjustments as "the ride height adjustments", and "adding preload makes the ride comfort worse". I have a BRZ and followed the "use the bottom bracket to adjust the ride height" recipe before. I then found myself in a situation where my ride was very harsh on bumps, and yet the height was still too high. I'm talking "almost OEM height" too high, and I'm not a stance boy. I was lucky to stumble upon a video that recommended the opposite: use the adjustments at the bottom bracket to set the "comfort" (more specifically, to set the correct amount of compression travel) and from there set the ride height using the top lock ring. After some trial-and-error and then analyzing all the before and after measurements, I found out that the preload was set too low. By *adding* preload and screwing the damper into the bottom bracket by the same amount, I was able to significantly *improve* the ride comfort without changing the ride height. I've made a few iterations until I noticed minor rubbing, and then I've undone the adjustments a couple of mm. After that experience, I came to a personal conclusion that on FT86 cars with big tires (245/40R17 in my case) there's geometrically so little space available for the tire to go up when the suspension compresses, that once the correct damper length (adjustment at the bottom bracket) is set, the only correct way to adjust the ride height is by changing the preload. Way too much preload can indeed negatively affect the ride comfort, but my point is that in a certain range of preload, it's in fact a better tool for adjusting the ride height.
Interesting, I noticed that in later videos you use the bottom lock ring only to set the bump stop height once and "never touch it again". Curious to learn if this is a CSP vs FRP thing, or there are other reasons to still use the bottom lock ring to adjust ride height.
@@TimurIskhodzhanov There are no reasons to ever use the bottom bracket on multipiece coilover as the ride height adjustment. IT is not just a comfort thing but also a major safety factor. Tires touching sheet metal on the frame or unrolled fenders can cut them causing them to rapidly deflate while your driving and potentially making you lose control of your car. Also, in double wishbone and multi-link setups with upper control arms, if those arms hit the frame because the bump stop is not being engaged you are likely to snap them due to impact forces or damage your ball joints in some cases. Those parts are rarely ever designed to take a direct impact.
Absolutely! Our FastRoad Pro line is a track capable suspension intended for a car that mostly sees street use. While our ClubSpec Pro line (not on the website yet) is for those who avidly use their car for the track.
I think it's misleading to talk about the bottom adjustments as "the ride height adjustments", and "adding preload makes the ride comfort worse". I have a BRZ and followed the "use the bottom bracket to adjust the ride height" recipe before. I then found myself in a situation where my ride was very harsh on bumps, and yet the height was still too high. I'm talking "almost OEM height" too high, and I'm not a stance boy.
I was lucky to stumble upon a video that recommended the opposite: use the adjustments at the bottom bracket to set the "comfort" (more specifically, to set the correct amount of compression travel) and from there set the ride height using the top lock ring. After some trial-and-error and then analyzing all the before and after measurements, I found out that the preload was set too low. By *adding* preload and screwing the damper into the bottom bracket by the same amount, I was able to significantly *improve* the ride comfort without changing the ride height. I've made a few iterations until I noticed minor rubbing, and then I've undone the adjustments a couple of mm.
After that experience, I came to a personal conclusion that on FT86 cars with big tires (245/40R17 in my case) there's geometrically so little space available for the tire to go up when the suspension compresses, that once the correct damper length (adjustment at the bottom bracket) is set, the only correct way to adjust the ride height is by changing the preload.
Way too much preload can indeed negatively affect the ride comfort, but my point is that in a certain range of preload, it's in fact a better tool for adjusting the ride height.
Interesting, I noticed that in later videos you use the bottom lock ring only to set the bump stop height once and "never touch it again". Curious to learn if this is a CSP vs FRP thing, or there are other reasons to still use the bottom lock ring to adjust ride height.
@@TimurIskhodzhanov There are no reasons to ever use the bottom bracket on multipiece coilover as the ride height adjustment. IT is not just a comfort thing but also a major safety factor. Tires touching sheet metal on the frame or unrolled fenders can cut them causing them to rapidly deflate while your driving and potentially making you lose control of your car. Also, in double wishbone and multi-link setups with upper control arms, if those arms hit the frame because the bump stop is not being engaged you are likely to snap them due to impact forces or damage your ball joints in some cases. Those parts are rarely ever designed to take a direct impact.
Can't wait to buy my annex coilovers for my ae86
Well worth it! Contact us with any questions!
@@AnnexSuspensionGroup ualreadysnow
Would you recommend these coilovers for track use?
Absolutely! Our FastRoad Pro line is a track capable suspension intended for a car that mostly sees street use. While our ClubSpec Pro line (not on the website yet) is for those who avidly use their car for the track.
Subs
Much appreciated!