C33/C330 cameras sometimes suffer from advance issues. I have a C33 here on a shelf for spare parts that sometimes advances the film, sometimes it doesn't. It's just a parts body. Another thing to check is that you shut the back fully with two thumbs putting pressure on both sides, and then keep pressure as you turn the lock dial. There's a catch on the right that if not fully enacted sometimes jacks things up. Good luck! I have 3 C220's, 2 C33's, and a C330. Did an entire project on one of my 220's that now has its images in a solo show at a local college. The leaf shutter is much more quiet than my Hasselblad, and that's why I chose this camera for the project.
The double exposures may have been caused by accidentally turning the multi knob. I suppose you had the 65mm on the camera, this is a truly amazing lens.
First impressions is hard; it’s squared when it’s first impression of a new camera system and an unknown example. The ergonomics are brutal compared to some yashica, but the bellows and interchangeable lenses more than make up for that in added versatility. Regarding parralax indicator - if you’re going to use the bellows enough that it makes framing a bit hit and miss, get a paramender. They’re pretty cheap and an absolute game changer. I hope the example you have is sound; it can be a really wonderful system when tuned up nicely and you’re tuned in to it.
Ruh roh.. I really like my C220. I don’t think I’ve busted out a C330 in decades. I agree about the relatively dim wlf.. I use a prism finder almost exclusively on my C220.. it does the trick. I’ll be interested in what you discover about the double exposure thing. Good luck!
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C33/C330 cameras sometimes suffer from advance issues. I have a C33 here on a shelf for spare parts that sometimes advances the film, sometimes it doesn't. It's just a parts body. Another thing to check is that you shut the back fully with two thumbs putting pressure on both sides, and then keep pressure as you turn the lock dial. There's a catch on the right that if not fully enacted sometimes jacks things up. Good luck! I have 3 C220's, 2 C33's, and a C330. Did an entire project on one of my 220's that now has its images in a solo show at a local college. The leaf shutter is much more quiet than my Hasselblad, and that's why I chose this camera for the project.
The double exposures may have been caused by accidentally turning the multi knob. I suppose you had the 65mm on the camera, this is a truly amazing lens.
I have the Mamiya 220 and I love the image quality I get from it but my only gripe is the size....I seem to struggle fitting it in my camera bags!
First impressions is hard; it’s squared when it’s first impression of a new camera system and an unknown example.
The ergonomics are brutal compared to some yashica, but the bellows and interchangeable lenses more than make up for that in added versatility. Regarding parralax indicator - if you’re going to use the bellows enough that it makes framing a bit hit and miss, get a paramender. They’re pretty cheap and an absolute game changer.
I hope the example you have is sound; it can be a really wonderful system when tuned up nicely and you’re tuned in to it.
Ruh roh..
I really like my C220. I don’t think I’ve busted out a C330 in decades. I agree about the relatively dim wlf.. I use a prism finder almost exclusively on my C220.. it does the trick.
I’ll be interested in what you discover about the double exposure thing. Good luck!
Ruh rob indeed. Hoping I can get the hang of this camera and figure out what caused those double exposures.