Your mention of skin tones and skies reminded me that many, many years ago at my first newspaper job, our publisher required all photographers to shoot with a yellow filter. This produced better skies and clouds, and also improved complexions of those we photographed. He also required us to use flash on all photographs of people, even outdoors.
I tried and liked yellow/green filters such as the Hoya XO, Tokina YG and the Leica GGR. Found that the provided better contrast and definition than Yellow only. Less than one stop compensation. These are my always on filters now.
Thanks for the video. I'm looking to shoot the fall foliage here in Colorado this month and plan to experiment with a yellow filter since the Aspen trees all turn yellow here.
A yellow filter is my go to in the city. I only use the red or orange in the parks (Washington or Central), on the Highline, or around the East River. The rest of the time I find red an orange to make the shadows to deep.
@@thirtyfiveeyes I think he speaks about the common mixing between filter factor and f-stops. A filter factor of 2 means 1 stop reduction, what @Joshua found out by measuring TTL
@@thirtyfiveeyes Yes, that was a mistake, but also not all yellow filters have the same compensation. This compensation also can depend on the film spectral sensitivity, not just whether it is panchromatic or not. In that way, just using a light meter does not necessarily give consistent results across different films. The mass market color filters also do not have such narrow bands as to only block a single complementary color. The other problematic information provided in the red (and even orange) filter video is not here, though.
Re; the increase of exposure due to filter use (the "filter factor") I think that, with people moving away from film photography and with the automation of most camera exposure functions, some of the basics are becoming "fuzzy". A filter factor of 2 equates to 1 stop (as your in camera meter indicated). As you determined and have shown in your video, if a handheld meter set to the film speed says f5.6@ 1/500, changing from f5.6 to f 4.0 gives twice the indicated exposure (the 2X filter factor) as does leaving the aperture at 5.6 and dropping the shutter speed to 1/250. I think that the confusion comes from people seeing the 2x on the filter ring and thinking that equates to 2 stops, as you suspected. The built-in camera meter is obviously measuring the actual light and confirms this. Thanks for continuing to promote film photography. Cheers!
Blank frames.. blank as in no exposure? Or totally exposed frame? Possible intermittent issue with the leaf shutter in your lens? Or does it happen regardless of the lens used? Or a possible film back issue.. a little process of elimination will go a long way.. I use red, orange and yellow filters almost exclusively for adding drama to skies, preferably with puffy clouds. I rarely bother using filters to add effect to colored subjects.
I'm gonna guess the blank frames are from a laggy shutter. So you're just leaving it there unused and the shutter will start to get stuck because of the old lubricant. A servicing will probably fix it, but if you want to try and fix it yourself please don't use oil. Use something like graphite powder on the shutter blades.
The images with the yellow filter are too ... clear, no? The best filter is the red (in an other video). In my last b&w films I only used the red filter and I find the result much more better than without a filter or with a yellow or orange.
Your mention of skin tones and skies reminded me that many, many years ago at my first newspaper job, our publisher required all photographers to shoot with a yellow filter. This produced better skies and clouds, and also improved complexions of those we photographed. He also required us to use flash on all photographs of people, even outdoors.
I tried and liked yellow/green filters such as the Hoya XO, Tokina YG and the Leica GGR. Found that the provided better contrast and definition than Yellow only. Less than one stop compensation. These are my always on filters now.
Thanks for the video. I'm looking to shoot the fall foliage here in Colorado this month and plan to experiment with a yellow filter since the Aspen trees all turn yellow here.
A filter factor of 2 = 1 stop.
A yellow filter is my go to in the city. I only use the red or orange in the parks (Washington or Central), on the Highline, or around the East River. The rest of the time I find red an orange to make the shadows to deep.
The third video in this series and it stills contains misleading or just wrong information, though less. Thanks for providing comparisons.
sometime you have to open few books to really embrace the concept
Do you mind letting me know what information might be wrong or misleading so i don't make the mistake next time?
@@thirtyfiveeyes I think he speaks about the common mixing between filter factor and f-stops. A filter factor of 2 means 1 stop reduction, what @Joshua found out by measuring TTL
Ah thanks for the clarification!
@@thirtyfiveeyes Yes, that was a mistake, but also not all yellow filters have the same compensation. This compensation also can depend on the film spectral sensitivity, not just whether it is panchromatic or not. In that way, just using a light meter does not necessarily give consistent results across different films. The mass market color filters also do not have such narrow bands as to only block a single complementary color. The other problematic information provided in the red (and even orange) filter video is not here, though.
I am of the opinion that these filters also come in handy when using digital cameras.
Re; the increase of exposure due to filter use (the "filter factor") I think that, with people moving away from film photography and with the automation of most camera exposure functions, some of the basics are becoming "fuzzy". A filter factor of 2 equates to 1 stop (as your in camera meter indicated). As you determined and have shown in your video, if a handheld meter set to the film speed says f5.6@ 1/500, changing from f5.6 to f 4.0 gives twice the indicated exposure (the 2X filter factor) as does leaving the aperture at 5.6 and dropping the shutter speed to 1/250. I think that the confusion comes from people seeing the 2x on the filter ring and thinking that equates to 2 stops, as you suspected. The built-in camera meter is obviously measuring the actual light and confirms this. Thanks for continuing to promote film photography. Cheers!
Blank frames.. blank as in no exposure? Or totally exposed frame? Possible intermittent issue with the leaf shutter in your lens? Or does it happen regardless of the lens used? Or a possible film back issue.. a little process of elimination will go a long way..
I use red, orange and yellow filters almost exclusively for adding drama to skies, preferably with puffy clouds. I rarely bother using filters to add effect to colored subjects.
I'm gonna guess the blank frames are from a laggy shutter. So you're just leaving it there unused and the shutter will start to get stuck because of the old lubricant. A servicing will probably fix it, but if you want to try and fix it yourself please don't use oil. Use something like graphite powder on the shutter blades.
Yeah this makes the most sense to me. thanks for the tip!
Maybe if you return the hat to the princess the film curse would be lifted.
You may be on to something!
The images with the yellow filter are too ... clear, no? The best filter is the red (in an other video). In my last b&w films I only used the red filter and I find the result much more better than without a filter or with a yellow or orange.