Ok! thanks! And another question: some people seem to say that you should find a way of cutting of the top of the compressor casing so you can check the oil level and so on... but Why?? I mean these are designed to go for years in your freezer without service and they work a lot more than a homemade air compressor you occasionally use at home... So do you really need to check and change the oil?
I saw the other comments in the email I got. If you want to add a filter and lubricator you need to add it after the tank output not going into the tank Compressing air adds water so you want to add filter at the output to the tank. I have added a regulator and lubricator to mine. The latest video will show this, I just need to upload and post that, will do it soon.
Yes I know ! I do apologise I always planned to do a video with audio but just never get round to it. After 4 and half years of running they are a bit noisier than they were at first but still quieter than a standard compressor.
That looks good, I like the hammered finish paint. I've expirimented with hermetic motor compressors as air compressors before with mixed results. I bet you're aware of the oiling issue. They pump oil into the air tank, by design. You will have to keep toppin up the oil in the compressors. It's hard to know how much has been lost and when and how much to add. I would love to see a video if it running some time!
Ohh ok got it. How did you make sure not to get any metal shavings fromthe drill into the casing? I'm thinking you could also drill two more holes one on the top and on the bottom of each casing and then connect them (externally) with a clear tube. Mark the desired oil level and you're set.
Thanks for the info. Good idea to use an hours meter on thie compressor for oil use estimation. Another idea you can use to ensure the duty cycle is not exceeded, is to use a timer relay (such as an IDEC timer) to lock out the compressor if it runstoo long. This would protect if a hose leak happened whily you were out etc. Some of the big industrial units have something like this.
No worries on the questions. I didnt bother cutting open the the casings at all, you see you only lose a small sputtering of oil, it's really not that much (unless the oil has been overfilled). So I just add a small amount of oil into the compressors every so often on a guesstimate basis via the oil holes.
Run the compressor motor with the belt removed to determine if the motor is ok If the motor runs (dont run it too long without load) without blowing fuse then this is ok. Sounds like the compressor itself has failed ABAC is made in the UK you could try contacting them for parts If that option is too expensive you could try replacing the compressor itself with a similar spec'd US one of your choice If you don't know how to do this then best to sell that as spares/repairs & get uself new one
I didn't drill mine, I cut the seal off the refill pipe and added a rubber bung, which I remove when I fill up. If you want to avoid swarf going into a hole you are drilling simply apply some grease on drill bit and drill slowly.
No I chose my terminolgy carefully :-) The two compressors are T'd together the combined output then goes into an unloader check valve this only allows air into the tank and not back out of that hole & also unloads pressure on compressor line when the regulator kicks the compressors off So next time the compressors comeback on there is no back pressure on the line. A seperate safety/pressure valve sits off a port on regulator this will vent pressure if over 200PSI this is MUST for safety
if it is a pulley driven compressor and the compressor is rated for more rpm than it is currently running at and the motor has enough power you can increase the pulley size on the motor to drive the compressor faster. if not than you need to buy a 2nd compressor or a bigger one.
As you point out with three compressors you will need to stagger the startup of each to avoid a sudden current surge. You could do this with seperate regualtors for each one. I don't know the technical spec of the compressors your using but if they are HBP (High Back Pressure) compressors then the line into the tank wont need unloading so just one check valve will work fine. If they aren't HBP then you will need to unload the line and have multiple check/unloader valves.
According to the specs of the fridge compressors, the two combined together should output nearly 5 CFM. Which seems about right as my Air Impact Driver is rated at 6 CFM and the compressor starts to "just" fall behind. But for what I use for it is does a fantastic job. I've been meaning to do a video of it in action for ages now. Your request has prompted me :-) ... So I'll try and make a video of it in action at the weekend. Thanks for watching and commenting.
If you get the right compressor and use the right oil its not an issue. Mine uses 10ml of oil per 60 hours compressor run time (7,750cubic feet of air). It takes a while to test but its not difficult. Fit an hours run counter in parallel with the motor, fill the compressor with the correct amount of oil and measure it (tip it out) after10 hours of running. If it isnt a measurable amount, increase the interval until it is :) Topup the oil using the counter and replace the oil once a year.
If the compressor takes more than 5 minutes to fill the tank, use multiple compressors to increase the cfm and reduce the running time. Running for more than 5 minutes causes the oil to overheat, cooked oil turns acidic and attacks the insulation on the motor windings. If the windings short out the compressor is junk.
Did you use a check valve between the two compressors ? , so the air from the first desn't flow back to the second . Or is this not important when they both start and end shut down at the same time ? Great work , looks really professioal ;)
Alternatively you could look into timer delay relays and control the switching on of the compressors electronically. This would allow you to use just one regulator and one check valve. Switch on of the three compressors would be staggerd and switch off would be collectively done when the regulator reaches set max pressure. Hmm that sounds liek a good setup .. may look into that myself Lol.
I'll look forward to it:). That's impressive that it can swing around 5 CFM! A silent system that can do that is a home shop dream. I wonder what sort of duty cycle that sort of system could withstand...
1) Yes and I will be add another one sometime in the future, just watch this space :-) 2) Look at the pictures with compressor against the wall (near the end), On the right hand side of the tank, there is check/unloader valve. It's plumbed up just like normal air compressor is. 3) Ebay, The compressors are Aspera NJ9226GK ones, these 1HP output HBP. 4) I did plenty of research& planning, carefully chose the compressors, this was key to making a very functional silent compressor.
Thats kind of low numbers and let you with no tools to run on this set. Though its good for all around cleaning and airing up at home. Hey, still great mod!
I haven't no. Two reasons, firstly I haven't come across a bargain high back pressure compressor (cost new is like £250). Secondly the current setup keeps up with most jobs I've thrown at it. Only time I could have done with more CFM is when trying to get the crank bolt off a Civic Type R engine.
I have build one..... With 2 motors.. 1 is refrigerator compressor and works good especially at longer use... 1 is aircon window type compressor but very bad at long use it will heat up very hot that i cant touch the compressor...need help any advice? Thank you!
The timer relay is a good idea. A normally open solenoid will take care of unloading the pressure when the power is cut. HST/HBP compressors can be used without an unloader but the valves will last longer if you use one.
JohnnyJim J LOL ! It's obviously not totally silent, I think if I recall correctly I measured it being at 60dB at 1 metre. Where as a 3HP normal compressor is 95dB or so. With the db scale being logarithmic that's quite a big difference. I've been promising to make a video showing the actual sound of it for ages but just haven't got round to it as yet :-(
Foot2DaFloor I was aking because I got one of those old fridge compressors I recuperated, it's really quiet, but it's not pushing much air ;-) For round the shop use I'm now looking at getting an old v-twin that runs at low RPMs - my 5 gallon '3HP peak' compressor is just plain too noisy to use, can't stand it anymore ;-)
JohnnyJim J You need high output high back pressure compressors. Most normal fridge motors are only 1/3rd HP or so. You need a freezer compressor ideally. I used two Aspera NJ9226GK compressors, which if I recall correctly are 1.5HP each. I also have a 3HP twin piston compressor plugged in series, I kick that in when I really need a lot of air and yes that is awfully noisy !
I made a video at the weekend but it wasnt very good, I'll have another go soon. Fridge compressors aren't really designed to be constantly kicking out 120PSI, so internally they will build up a lot of temperature. So I think the key is to keep topping up the oil as this will keep getting pushed out into the tank. Like I said they do a great job for what I need them for but that isnt constant use. I'm planning on adding a third compressor sometime in future.
Perhaps, you could add a valve to make the compressors run in parallel at low vacuum pressure to start and then switch them to run in series at higher vacuum.
I tried making a video of it running a while back but the video makes the compressors sound loud when they are not. I measured the sound to be 50-55 dB at 1metre.
There's two of them so nearly 4 CFM and the tank is reasonable size, tools run on 90 PSI, I set compressor cut out to 120PSI and use a regulator. I do a fair bit of work on cars, on some tools the setup does fall behind a little but its never really hampered me, it's still does do the job in the end. I will beef it up a little in the future. In the mean time it does the job.
Yes, this is exactly what I use it for. It can do all the garage related work, easily do tyre inflating, air ratchet, air impact gun work, the only time it falls behind the demand is when I'm trying to take off a crank shaft pulley bolt with air impact gun. Those are tightened to a high torque, so these compressors can't keep up with the amount of air demanded, I have to keep stopping to let them catch up.
Lots of ideas, questions and theories there Applejak :-) I've answered the cooling question already in previous answers, have a browse back through the comments. As to timer delay relays, I've not looked into these in details myself. I am planning to add a third complressor at some point so I will need to think about cascaded switch on at that point.
Those compressors have a high LRA (Locked Rotor Amps) rating. This means they draw a lot of current at the very start to get them going. You will need to delay start them using some timing circuit.
Waouh, pour être silencieux, c'est extrêmement silencieux, même amplificateur à fond, je n'entends rien. Certainement la chose la plus silencieuse du monde.
Thanks. Yh the compressors are both HBP types (High Back Pressure) so they can start despite pressure being present in the outlet. So no need for check valve. The setup is still going strong despite some heavy use recently been doing some engine work on a fair few cars.
This compressors are way more than you need to rachet out a bolt, especially with twin setup, this can easily pull up 400 psi, just try taking of that switch, i bet they limit your pressure to 135 or 170psi.
Please take me to the shop that uses a 400lb compressor... his gauge read 160 top so betting his is 125-95 or 140-110 cut out cut in.. and no tanks are really designed to hold 400psi nor any equipment to hold half that in working pressure.. it would be cool to see though. Take an air hammer and push 400 through it.. but your right tho. A small fridge compressor can easily make 900psi.. probably more but copper pipe fails around then and never seen anybody with balls big enough to test them greater than that.. saw the 900 tho and dude stopped it...
I know this "post" is old. But how did you two connected "refrigerator compressor" together? And what type of voltage / amperage HZ and it gives? Can I connect this on a normal house hold? I constantly of 1.2 or 3 gallons with compressors 110-115 / 60HZ / 1-2 HP but I would make myself a 6-20 gallon tank with a dual compressor. Sory for my english, i'm french Canadian
Sorry Etikadd, I totally missed your question somehow. My compressors are 240v 55-60Hz (UK household supply). There are two amp ratings for compressors. One is LRA (locked rotor amps), which is the current needed to get the compressor going. The other is either called FLA (Full Load Amps) or RLA (Running Load Amps), these refer to the current used once the compressors have got going. So what you need to do is ensure that the sum of the LRA of both compressors is less than the rated output of your socket, if you are going to wire the compressors in parallel with no delay start between them. If you delay start them then make sure your the sum of the FLA values doesn't exceed the rated output of your wall socket. Reason for the two amperage values is that these compressor draw a lot of current when they are switched on (LRA value) but once they get going they settle down (FLA/RLA value).
Étikadd brabz tu va avoir besoin de 12 ampere avec des compresseur de gros fridge ca va te donner environ 3 a 5 cfm tu as besoin de 2 check valve avant daller dans la tank
was wondering think of making one of these myself but seen alot of issues with oil getting into the tank is it posible to run from compressor to oil seperator then from oil sepeorator to tank or wouldnt this work ?
Hi Victor, sorry was that a question as to why I used two compressors ? If it is, then the answer is that each one is rated as pumping out just over 2CFM, so together they pump out out 4 or 4.5CFM.
The compressors are Aspera NJ9226GK ones, these are 1HP output HBP (High Back Pressure) ones. At 3:22 you will see where I add oil in. I add in compressor oil into there at regular intervals, depending on how much I use the compressors. I was thinking of adding a clear tub that would stand vertically parallel to the compressors to act as indicator of oil level never got round to that either :-( Thanks for interest and kind comments +Christopher Persad
Great video, I have an old oilless compressor and the motor was shot so I took it off the tank and put a fridge compressor on it. But before I hook it up I was told I needed to switch out the oil to regular compressor oil. Is that true and if so how would I go about it? Going to be used as a silent compressor for airbrushing. Any help would be appreciated.
Sorry Stephen Staines missed your question somehow. Yes you can switch out the oil but as you will be using for air brushing make sure you add a filter to catch an oil being pushed out of the line. You can empty the old oil simply by tipping the compressor on it side and empty the oil out of the air outlet hole. Once again apologies for late reply.
Stephen Staines If you move the video to 3:21 you will see I have pointed out the holes I use for filling the oil. These holes are normally the return pipe on the fridge/freezer piping. You could use air in hole at the front also but I suggest you get a filter put on that as I have.
In a fridge you have a closed loop so oil never escapes. When used as an air compressor the oil can end up getting blown into tank, therefore you need to top it back up again.
Ok! thanks! And another question: some people seem to say that you should find a way of cutting of the top of the compressor casing so you can check the oil level and so on... but Why?? I mean these are designed to go for years in your freezer without service and they work a lot more than a homemade air compressor you occasionally use at home... So do you really need to check and change the oil?
Makes sense... Is it easy to open up the compressor casing? Or do you have to actually cut it open? Sorry for asking too many questions :(
Sorry if you answered this before but: wind kind of output would a normal refrigerator compressor have??
I saw the other comments in the email I got. If you want to add a filter and lubricator you need to add it after the tank output not going into the tank Compressing air adds water so you want to add filter at the output to the tank. I have added a regulator and lubricator to mine. The latest video will show this, I just need to upload and post that, will do it soon.
Most refrigerator compressors are only 1/5HP or 1/4HP. To get a more power compressor you need to get one from a large freezer.
Your title says silent air compressor. There should be at least one scene at the end to reflect that title.
Yes I know ! I do apologise I always planned to do a video with audio but just never get round to it. After 4 and half years of running they are a bit noisier than they were at first but still quieter than a standard compressor.
That looks good, I like the hammered finish paint.
I've expirimented with hermetic motor compressors as air compressors before with mixed results.
I bet you're aware of the oiling issue. They pump oil into the air tank, by design. You will have to keep toppin up the oil in the compressors. It's hard to know how much has been lost and when and how much to add.
I would love to see a video if it running some time!
Ohh ok got it. How did you make sure not to get any metal shavings fromthe drill into the casing?
I'm thinking you could also drill two more holes one on the top and on the bottom of each casing and then connect them (externally) with a clear tube. Mark the desired oil level and you're set.
Thanks for the info. Good idea to use an hours meter on thie compressor for oil use estimation.
Another idea you can use to ensure the duty cycle is not exceeded, is to use a timer relay (such as an IDEC timer) to lock out the compressor if it runstoo long. This would protect if a hose leak happened whily you were out etc. Some of the big industrial units have something like this.
No worries on the questions. I didnt bother cutting open the the casings at all, you see you only lose a small sputtering of oil, it's really not that much (unless the oil has been overfilled). So I just add a small amount of oil into the compressors every so often on a guesstimate basis via the oil holes.
Run the compressor motor with the belt removed to determine if the motor is ok If the motor runs (dont run it too long without load) without blowing fuse then this is ok. Sounds like the compressor itself has failed ABAC is made in the UK you could try contacting them for parts If that option is too expensive you could try replacing the compressor itself with a similar spec'd US one of your choice If you don't know how to do this then best to sell that as spares/repairs & get uself new one
I didn't drill mine, I cut the seal off the refill pipe and added a rubber bung, which I remove when I fill up. If you want to avoid swarf going into a hole you are drilling simply apply some grease on drill bit and drill slowly.
No I chose my terminolgy carefully :-) The two compressors are T'd together the combined output then goes into an unloader check valve this only allows air into the tank and not back out of that hole & also unloads pressure on compressor line when the regulator kicks the compressors off So next time the compressors comeback on there is no back pressure on the line. A seperate safety/pressure valve sits off a port on regulator this will vent pressure if over 200PSI this is MUST for safety
if it is a pulley driven compressor and the compressor is rated for more rpm than it is currently running at and the motor has enough power you can increase the pulley size on the motor to drive the compressor faster. if not than you need to buy a 2nd compressor or a bigger one.
As you point out with three compressors you will need to stagger the startup of each to avoid a sudden current surge. You could do this with seperate regualtors for each one. I don't know the technical spec of the compressors your using but if they are HBP (High Back Pressure) compressors then the line into the tank wont need unloading so just one check valve will work fine. If they aren't HBP then you will need to unload the line and have multiple check/unloader valves.
According to the specs of the fridge compressors, the two combined together should output nearly 5 CFM. Which seems about right as my Air Impact Driver is rated at 6 CFM and the compressor starts to "just" fall behind. But for what I use for it is does a fantastic job. I've been meaning to do a video of it in action for ages now. Your request has prompted me :-) ... So I'll try and make a video of it in action at the weekend. Thanks for watching and commenting.
If you get the right compressor and use the right oil its not an issue. Mine uses 10ml of oil per 60 hours compressor run time (7,750cubic feet of air).
It takes a while to test but its not difficult. Fit an hours run counter in parallel with the motor, fill the compressor with the correct amount of oil and measure it (tip it out) after10 hours of running. If it isnt a measurable amount, increase the interval until it is :) Topup the oil using the counter and replace the oil once a year.
If the compressor takes more than 5 minutes to fill the tank, use multiple compressors to increase the cfm and reduce the running time.
Running for more than 5 minutes causes the oil to overheat, cooked oil turns acidic and attacks the insulation on the motor windings. If the windings short out the compressor is junk.
Did you use a check valve between the two compressors ? , so the air from the first desn't flow back to the second . Or is this not important when they both start and end shut down at the same time ?
Great work , looks really professioal ;)
Alternatively you could look into timer delay relays and control the switching on of the compressors electronically. This would allow you to use just one regulator and one check valve. Switch on of the three compressors would be staggerd and switch off would be collectively done when the regulator reaches set max pressure. Hmm that sounds liek a good setup .. may look into that myself Lol.
It is soo quiet you can't even hear the guy talk,oh wait its a silent movie,lol
fantastic! Any chance we could see a video of it running and hear about a ball park CFM?
I'll look forward to it:). That's impressive that it can swing around 5 CFM! A silent system that can do that is a home shop dream. I wonder what sort of duty cycle that sort of system could withstand...
1) Yes and I will be add another one sometime in the future, just watch this space :-)
2) Look at the pictures with compressor against the wall (near the end), On the right hand side of the tank, there is check/unloader valve. It's plumbed up just like normal air compressor is.
3) Ebay, The compressors are Aspera NJ9226GK ones, these 1HP output HBP.
4) I did plenty of research& planning, carefully chose the compressors, this was key to making a very functional silent compressor.
Thats kind of low numbers and let you with no tools to run on this set. Though its good for all around cleaning and airing up at home. Hey, still great mod!
I haven't no. Two reasons, firstly I haven't come across a bargain high back pressure compressor (cost new is like £250). Secondly the current setup keeps up with most jobs I've thrown at it. Only time I could have done with more CFM is when trying to get the crank bolt off a Civic Type R engine.
I have build one..... With 2 motors.. 1 is refrigerator compressor and works good especially at longer use... 1 is aircon window type compressor but very bad at long use it will heat up very hot that i cant touch the compressor...need help any advice? Thank you!
The timer relay is a good idea. A normally open solenoid will take care of unloading the pressure when the power is cut.
HST/HBP compressors can be used without an unloader but the valves will last longer if you use one.
Great idea! Refrigeration compressors?! Wowwww! There is nothing more silent than that; but what about cfm delivery @ 90 psi, any numbers?
It's silent alright ;-)
Any chance we may actually HEAR what is sounds like? More importantly, how many CFMs does it put out?
JohnnyJim J LOL ! It's obviously not totally silent, I think if I recall correctly I measured it being at 60dB at 1 metre. Where as a 3HP normal compressor is 95dB or so. With the db scale being logarithmic that's quite a big difference. I've been promising to make a video showing the actual sound of it for ages but just haven't got round to it as yet :-(
Foot2DaFloor I was aking because I got one of those old fridge compressors I recuperated, it's really quiet, but it's not pushing much air ;-)
For round the shop use I'm now looking at getting an old v-twin that runs at low RPMs - my 5 gallon '3HP peak' compressor is just plain too noisy to use, can't stand it anymore ;-)
JohnnyJim J You need high output high back pressure compressors. Most normal fridge motors are only 1/3rd HP or so. You need a freezer compressor ideally. I used two Aspera NJ9226GK compressors, which if I recall correctly are 1.5HP each. I also have a 3HP twin piston compressor plugged in series, I kick that in when I really need a lot of air and yes that is awfully noisy !
JohnnyJim J ii
What do you think? I'm looking at a 1.5hp A/c 18,000btu compressor CR18K6E-PFV-875..
niceee! what kinda tool did you use for rounding the corners on the metal plate?
I made a video at the weekend but it wasnt very good, I'll have another go soon. Fridge compressors aren't really designed to be constantly kicking out 120PSI, so internally they will build up a lot of temperature. So I think the key is to keep topping up the oil as this will keep getting pushed out into the tank. Like I said they do a great job for what I need them for but that isnt constant use. I'm planning on adding a third compressor sometime in future.
I used a cutting disc on an angle grinder to get the rough shape and then I used a grinding disc to smooth it off.
Perhaps, you could add a valve to make the compressors run in parallel at low vacuum pressure to start and then switch them to run in series at higher vacuum.
I tried making a video of it running a while back but the video makes the compressors sound loud when they are not. I measured the sound to be 50-55 dB at 1metre.
There's two of them so nearly 4 CFM and the tank is reasonable size, tools run on 90 PSI, I set compressor cut out to 120PSI and use a regulator. I do a fair bit of work on cars, on some tools the setup does fall behind a little but its never really hampered me, it's still does do the job in the end. I will beef it up a little in the future. In the mean time it does the job.
Great job! Can you paint with this compressor(nitro colors) ?
Hi, Do you think that such compressor made of freezer would be good enough for inflating car/bike tires and doing simple works with air impact wrench?
I think they are 1.9 CFM each.
Yes, this is exactly what I use it for. It can do all the garage related work, easily do tyre inflating, air ratchet, air impact gun work, the only time it falls behind the demand is when I'm trying to take off a crank shaft pulley bolt with air impact gun. Those are tightened to a high torque, so these compressors can't keep up with the amount of air demanded, I have to keep stopping to let them catch up.
Lots of ideas, questions and theories there Applejak :-) I've answered the cooling question already in previous answers, have a browse back through the comments. As to timer delay relays, I've not looked into these in details myself. I am planning to add a third complressor at some point so I will need to think about cascaded switch on at that point.
Those compressors have a high LRA (Locked Rotor Amps) rating. This means they draw a lot of current at the very start to get them going. You will need to delay start them using some timing circuit.
Waouh, pour être silencieux, c'est extrêmement silencieux, même amplificateur à fond, je n'entends rien.
Certainement la chose la plus silencieuse du monde.
How can you increase the cfm on this set or on any compressor?
Thanks. Yh the compressors are both HBP types (High Back Pressure) so they can start despite pressure being present in the outlet. So no need for check valve. The setup is still going strong despite some heavy use recently been doing some engine work on a fair few cars.
This compressors are way more than you need to rachet out a bolt, especially with twin setup, this can easily pull up 400 psi, just try taking of that switch, i bet they limit your pressure to 135 or 170psi.
Please take me to the shop that uses a 400lb compressor... his gauge read 160 top so betting his is 125-95 or 140-110 cut out cut in.. and no tanks are really designed to hold 400psi nor any equipment to hold half that in working pressure.. it would be cool to see though. Take an air hammer and push 400 through it.. but your right tho. A small fridge compressor can easily make 900psi.. probably more but copper pipe fails around then and never seen anybody with balls big enough to test them greater than that.. saw the 900 tho and dude stopped it...
Opps, when I said seperate regulators actually I meant to say seperate pressure switches.
Seriously very silent compressor
My homemade silent air compressor.
Se calienta demasiado esos motores
What's ur power sorce ? 110-120 if so how meny Amos is ur breaker?
Simply add more compressors.
Don't A/C compressors circulate the oil in the line with refrigerant? do you just add oil all the time?
Yes that's right, but it's not used at a great rate so not a big issue really.
I heard fridge compressors are lubricated by the coolant. Do they last pumping air?
You have to periodically add some in.
looks nice but no sound how bizare.
I know this "post" is old. But how did you two connected "refrigerator compressor" together? And what type of voltage / amperage HZ and it gives? Can I connect this on a normal house hold? I constantly of 1.2 or 3 gallons with compressors 110-115 / 60HZ / 1-2 HP but I would make myself a 6-20 gallon tank with a dual compressor.
Sory for my english, i'm french Canadian
Sorry Etikadd, I totally missed your question somehow. My compressors are 240v 55-60Hz (UK household supply). There are two amp ratings for compressors. One is LRA (locked rotor amps), which is the current needed to get the compressor going. The other is either called FLA (Full Load Amps) or RLA (Running Load Amps), these refer to the current used once the compressors have got going. So what you need to do is ensure that the sum of the LRA of both compressors is less than the rated output of your socket, if you are going to wire the compressors in parallel with no delay start between them. If you delay start them then make sure your the sum of the FLA values doesn't exceed the rated output of your wall socket. Reason for the two amperage values is that these compressor draw a lot of current when they are switched on (LRA value) but once they get going they settle down (FLA/RLA value).
Étikadd brabz tu va avoir besoin de 12 ampere avec des compresseur de gros fridge ca va te donner environ 3 a 5 cfm tu as besoin de 2 check valve avant daller dans la tank
Nice set up! what kind of oil do you use to lubricate the inside of the compressor? Thanks!!
I use Clarke Compressor Oil SAE40.
Thanks!!!
Great Job! How long duration to fill this tank? And how long if its fall down and refill to the Max pressure? Thanks
was wondering think of making one of these myself but seen alot of issues with oil getting into the tank is it posible to run from compressor to oil seperator then from oil sepeorator to tank or wouldnt this work ?
Oil tends to stay in the tank, guess it's too heavy to be carried through to the air line. It comes out when you open the drain tap though.
You sure need volume to explane why you used 2 pumps.
Hi Victor, sorry was that a question as to why I used two compressors ? If it is, then the answer is that each one is rated as pumping out just over 2CFM, so together they pump out out 4 or 4.5CFM.
Very Impressive! Love It!
Really like this, what size compressors are these,and the lube system ,can you tell me a bit more on it,great video ,by the way.
The compressors are Aspera NJ9226GK ones, these are 1HP output HBP (High Back Pressure) ones. At 3:22 you will see where I add oil in. I add in compressor oil into there at regular intervals, depending on how much I use the compressors. I was thinking of adding a clear tub that would stand vertically parallel to the compressors to act as indicator of oil level never got round to that either :-( Thanks for interest and kind comments +Christopher Persad
Yep. It's silent.
sweet idea!
Great video, I have an old oilless compressor and the motor was shot so I took it off the tank and put a fridge compressor on it. But before I hook it up I was told I needed to switch out the oil to regular compressor oil. Is that true and if so how would I go about it? Going to be used as a silent compressor for airbrushing. Any help would be appreciated.
Sorry Stephen Staines missed your question somehow. Yes you can switch out the oil but as you will be using for air brushing make sure you add a filter to catch an oil being pushed out of the line. You can empty the old oil simply by tipping the compressor on it side and empty the oil out of the air outlet hole. Once again apologies for late reply.
Thanks, once the oil is out where does it go back in? Can I pour it in the air in port?
Stephen Staines If you move the video to 3:21 you will see I have pointed out the holes I use for filling the oil. These holes are normally the return pipe on the fridge/freezer piping. You could use air in hole at the front also but I suggest you get a filter put on that as I have.
In a fridge you have a closed loop so oil never escapes. When used as an air compressor the oil can end up getting blown into tank, therefore you need to top it back up again.
boa noite eu quero saber se os dois motores pode ser diferenciado onde 7500 btu e o outro 10.000 btu ou um de geladeira de ar condicionado
Great job! I need one of these to do airbrushing in the house! How did you wire tbe two motors together?
In parallel but they could do with having a time delay circuit so they have a staggered start.