Going to charge him for this
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 ส.ค. 2024
- Fixing the plasterers mistakes again so my work looks good,
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This video is for entertainment purposes only and is in no way intended as a guide or 'how to'.
Shouldn't really be our problem mate, but i can see why you did it. Will massively benefit you on the 2nd fix. No faffing around 👍
Exactly. Another guy commented the homeowner should’ve called the guy back. In the real world that is not a good solution. The homeowner will have to argue his case and it could take time before the guy comes back.
You’re wasting the homeowner’s time and the electrician’s who is just going to be idle until that’s resolved. Not ideal but tradesmen often make life difficult for the next guy who is going to work after them.
It is 100% your problem you have to put the switches in.
Been in this boat LOADS of times. Easiest way to get around that re-measuring take a larger than you need bit of board, cut the box hole in it, then line it up over the box. Trim the size if needed. Then draw around it and cut that. It'll slot in exactly where you want it.
I do patching the same way. No point in loads of measuring. Cut a bit of board Larger than the hole, draw around it then cut to the line. Perfect patch.
Genius!
that is a great tip!
Who ever done the boarding should have been called back by the client to put his work right, not you nick. I've worked tied with some great boards but I've not seen something as sloppy as that for a long time
Sometimes it's the client themselves drylining or done by the builder or the chippy varying levels of quality.
Who ever did the boarding is probably the last person you want trying to fix this.
@@stepbackandthinkhow true, whoever it was has already proved their lack of care/incompetence.
makes you wonder what his finish is like
Worse than when the noggins are centre at 1200 🤦🏾♂️
Been watching your videos for a while, this one really highlighted why you are one of the best TH-cam channels for electrical advice. I work in Cyber Security so not an expert but the DIY I do is within the regs and have professionals in for new circuits etc. You show actual problems and solutions, other channels pick and rant about the stupidest things, you just get on with it and help people, keep up the good work and thanks for all the guidance.
Nick Bundy the plasterboard repair man to the rescue. Top job fella!
Hi Nick. Why don't you get a small detail router with a flush cutting bit. That way you could just put the
router into the plaster board and the flush cutter will follow the internal sides of the box. Save you a lot
of measuring and save time. Maybe they do a flush router bit for the dremmel.
Beyond the call of duty fixing shitty boarders messy fuck ups. Nice one Nick.
I have this quite a lot but usually the clients would call them back to rectify it.
It just baffles me how it's so hard to cut boxes out, isnt it just knowing how to use a measuring tape?
When I do it, the easiest way instead of measuring is to get an offcut of plasterboard, mark the edges of the boxes, butt the plasterboard up to the wall and give it a whack so you can see the lines and imp4int of the boxes and just cut it out.
Keep up the good work Nick!
You good job!😬
11:00 that microphone made your round neck shirt looked like a V-shape shirt 😂
Going above and beyond there Nick. Hope you’ve done a follow up after the skim has been done 😊
1:20 Hmmm ... if we here setting boxes for power cables or LAN cables we marked the place on this dry walls and we set the boxes on the front side - never into the rear side in the hole wall (mostly inside isolation materials). If we need room in it we use the 65 mm deep boxes (with new electronic devices deep under the switches do you can buy 75 mm deep boxes (e.g. Shelly)).
In older installation as we not isolated the walls the electrician "fishing" the cable from behind after do the correct hole. In newer installation the company how plastering the wall works hand2hand with the electrician at the same time - mostly both from same company. 😊 Do you marked all holes horizontally and put your cables inside if the dry wall vertically ... easy job.
This is really ridiculous! 😮
using normal screws instead of drywall screws is not allowed here were i live. the changse is that the normal screw will rust after scimming and you will see the rust marks through the paint later. idk how it is in the uk.
Most screws sparkies use here are either BZP (bright zinc plated) or yellow passivated, neither will rust... but that's an interesting point. Still, the plasterer will get the blame ;)
That's because us sparks are not that educated when it comes to using the correct materials (other then electrical materials) we tend to use any old stuff.. and blame the other trades... We take the piss out of other trades... But without them we don't have a job... We can't wire up anything if there's no one to build the buildings...
I recently told the guy doing boards to bring cables out at socket height. Went back and installed fast fix boxes before being plastered.
Absolutely amazing final result.
Even if they brought cable out in the wrong area of the bay, its still to be plastered 🤷♂️
Thank god that we use 68mm hole saws in Central European for this purpose. Round boxes, FTW!
Square boxes are such an incredible waste of time, it is unreal!!
fill your back boxes with corrugated cardboard so they're not full of plaster when you come back 👍
Hit the plasterers with a bill !! Serves em right 👍💰
Possible DIY or "The cheapest contract won the job" ... 😭
@@OldLordSpeedy spot on 👍
Great teaching Nick , highlighting and explaining how you Sorting the back boxes out before it gets skimmed ⚡️👊
Fixing other peoples shoddyness so your work looks good - story of my life mate!
Why could you not use dry lining boxes?
This is the exact reason I don’t put boxes in on 1st fix, just put them after boarding
I’d always cut boxes in after the boarding. Then you can decide what depth box to use. This happened to me before never again. Use the laser line to Center of boxes too, metal flush and plaster box. Good vid bundy 👍🏻
4:23 OMG, extra work. 😭 So crazy.
Iv had this same disaster plastering job recently with oversized holes. I’m going to try using the plastic frames next time I work on a job with unknown builders who are lazy,incompetent or both .
You forgot to scribble a note indicated with a great big arrow for the 'plasterer' next to every box confirming that you have correctly adjusted and repaired all shytely cut plasterboard....
8:40 WOW, good work from you! 😮 ❤ One of best what do you can do in this situation.
Trick I seen from another video if you put chalk around the box edge and then when you put the plasterboard up to it give it a bang and you'll have a perfect imprint of where you need to cut out 👍
Those boxes are so weird. In germany we just put cables, it gets boarded by the drywaller and then the electrician just uses a round holesaw and places the (round )box flush with the drywall
We do the exact same thing with spotlights on a ceiling.
Use skeleton boxes and put them on top of the box. There should never be a void between the box and the board
Also stops the fuckers either boarding over them or cutting them out badly
Isn't a skeleton box a coffin?
I was thinking that you might need some really long screws for them, and also the sockets will pull the plasterboard inwards because of the void - skeleton extension boxes or spacers, sure that's the plan
You got there before the plaster because he was in hos van heating his spoon up 😅😅😅
Charge the plasterer yes. To around 500v...
Or 1000vdc
Nice recovery with that plaster board ,come out well. Great work😁👌👍
Not an uncommon problem but holding the ply like that while you rip a slither off it, tut tut, quickest way to lose a finger!
If you ever have to patch up plasterboard don't bother cutting tiny bits. If the hole is small cut the hole to the size of the plasterboard being used.... its easier!
Nic, i have a makita DCO 180 . Its like a router but just for plasterboard . so i can set the depth exactley so there is NO chance of hitting or cutting pips or cables ect . great for cutting out down lights. any way looking forword the the UNILITE PRIZE DRAW..OR Just a tape mesure.???
Instead of packing to get boxes flush with the plasterboard, why not fit extension boxes, much quicker.
8:02 nick next time, apply chalk on the lips of the back box. But that you for showing how bad some plasterers are.
Why are the boards so far off the block on the dot and dab walls? 25mm box, 12.5mm plasterboard, 12.5mm dot (or dab), Bob's your uncle 🤔
No idea mate
8:03 - Look like it attached to timber frames instead of dot and dab.
It interesting you should say that. Had a builder do me a small extension and I asked him how far the wanted the boxes sticking out 22 mm ( just cut the 1” box in a few mm he said) it ended up like that with the boxes well back from the front of the plaster bd. Makes a shit job once plastered as that cut edge always peals back.
Good for you for sorting that mess out before the skimming. Whoever did the boarding needs a word. We try to leave the front edge of the knockout at the front edge of the board, or at least in the board, to avoid this. Scratch that. I’ve just seen what you’ve had to do to sort that socket out. Whoever did the boarding needs a slap.
Could you not use dryline boxes? Might have saved you that ball ake,just as well you checked in on the job if that was plastered would not have been good 👍
trouble is these idiots boarding would of pulled his cables out at different heights if pulled through at all
That's some serious cowboy job. How do you cut holes that far out...
Just buy some drywall trimer. Looks like router. Fast and the best. Like for hultafors. I've got all combination of cartridges with spare stencils...
Pain in the arse. When going to all that trouble i would have replaced the back boxes for deeper ones and poss fast fix on the last one.
Deffo a DIY job that boarding, no way a chippy/drywaller would be that bad.
Oh they are..
Would love to share some of the pics I have of rework we've had to do.
You know there is a special kind of box you could have used for plaster board.. there called dry lining boxes.... 😉🤣🤣🤣
Let’s hope the plasterer does a better job than the plaster-boarder!
Got to love a perfect box.
“Looks like Adam’s done it” - OOH! I smell revenge here!
Why did not use extension boxes? Then the sockets and switches would have be bang on then for the plaster? 🤷🏼
Is it not required to be surfaced? Most of the metal boxes we use here in US have the depth of material on side. The rototool rides the exterior of box and wella.
Not sure why it’s the plasterers fault .if the boxes were packed out so they finished flush with the front of the plasterboard in the first place they would have no choice but to cut the plasterboard correctly
Problem is we were told it would be dabbed out 25mm so that’s what we did
@@NBundyElectrical ah ok
So if the wall is out of plum you are telling me you would get it right?
Next time, use the level to draw to the side and above the hole lining up with the box, then when you put your new piece in, you just draw some lines back across using those marks and you dont even need to see the box.
Boxes in after boarding and use Beadmaster covers.
I thought this was a fairly common issue with dry liners / builder's labourers. 90% of the time i have to trim up the plaster boards After its been plastered. The decorator would go round ( if needed) with his caulking gun & carry on prepping. Obviously you cant caulk in a socket !!
We replaced two previously removed (WW2😊)dormer windows in our gable end and had the whole attic plastered to use as an office, the plasterer remarked that it was the worst bit of boarding he'd ever seen and spent some time removing and levelling boards,all put in by an apparently accredited company.When we did the other attic we used the guy the plasterer recommended,who turned up on a pushbike looking and smelling like a tramp, but singlehandedly completed the attic in no time and the fit was nigh on perfect everywhere,even the cutting into the uneven large beams that were remaining visible was remarkable,all using nothing but a spirit level, a pencil,a Stanley knife and a cordless screwdriver,oh!and about 15 cans of beer. The plasterers exact words were " That they are on the wall is enough for most builders".
If all tradesmen took pride in their work like this 👍
I'm astounded at the plasterboard bodge AND I'm annoyed you had to rectify someone else's carelessness.
see you had the don't give a shit boarders in, got to the stage now ,if enough depth i make a drawing and cut em after /fit dryliners. this happens far to often and gives the finishing trades a nightmare.
First time I have seen boxes fitted before the plasterboard was up, usually only see tails for the joiner to poke through the plasterboard. As it's not the joiners job to fit the boxes or add an extra hour or 2 work to cut the plasterboard to fit especially if it's price work and not day/hourly rate
Shocking board work
Client should have got the plasterboarder back to cut the boxes out properly.
Do you working only in the office right? In the real life do you not want to have this idiot again at this place! Really never again! 😂 Idiots are good only at same idiotic work and lower but never higher good workmanship.
Get the guy who did the plasterboard an appointment at Specsavers! 🤓
Random question, but whatever happened to DSS Electrical? He was doing his own home for a while and then just stopped on YT.
no idea mate sorry
Have u had a look at bead master gives u a good edge to fit to when the skimming is done
good solution but Skeleton boxes exist for exactly this reason 😅
Ive had this issue with va-joiners plenty of times. To the point where i just tell them to bring the cables out and use plasterboard boxes (fastafix)
Plasterer obviously shot up his smack as he started boarding and by the end he was nodding out and it was game over
3100 to go... BOIIIII, Almost there... !! COME ON !!
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Mr George,how much you pay the new sheet rocker?
You made that look like hard work.
Do you protect your boxes with those sockit plastic covers, fill them with rag, or just risk them being full of plaster on your return?
Cables in then come back and fit dry line boxes
plaster is defo going just fill them all with muck, going off them board cut outs ;)
If that was my house I would be knocking off a few hundred quid when the idiot plasterer had finished.
And what I would have done while I was there just to piss the plasterer off, would be to cut all the down lights out, they really don't like it when you do that 😂😂
this is why sparkies hate plasterers
Put Tradify to work and charge the plaster dude accordingly plus a surcharge for general purposes!
excellent recovery could you not use BeadMaster Cover Plates i have seen that when wall plastered you then just nock cover and socket is a gooden just a thought. Have you got any bags to give away or what would you recommend other than the NB100 LET US KNOW !!!
Have you not seen them box beads? Great idea.
Well done buddy good way of again putting other people’s mistakes wright. Love to all. Woodyx
Tell you what Nick that beards coming on good, doesn’t look like bumfluff anymore I’d keep it going
Good for you going above and beyond 😀👍, but marking out and cutting for back boxes is easy and basic skill. How did they manage to cock it up so much??☹👎
The guys an idiot mate, surprised he got himself dressed
@@NBundyElectrical How do you know he did ;)
@@NBundyElectricalI’m guessing the dryliners don’t like u lol I would be ashamed to leave boxes cut out like that
@@makg4655some are so thick they don’t realise what a crap job they’ve done.
Looks like they were cut out with the plasterers teeth. I'm a plasterer and it's 1 of the easiest thing to do
that plaster boarding has not been done by a trained, time served plasterer,!!! a bandit more like, you can easy see they are shite, screws or nails should be every 150mm, once a nail or screw as broken the plaster board card, it's failing from that point on... so sick of shite jobs and god they'll charge.. your boxes should be ready to be flush or just set back so you will need to know board finish and plaster finish.. not many put on the right thickness on walls or ceilings in plaster and skimming.. and the screws are far too close to the edge... only a conscience between a good job and a bad... in all trades!!!!
What kind of horse was the plasterer riding?
What on earth did they use to hack the holes in the plasterboard? An Axe?
Don't be so silly... they used a shovel 😂
Cant believe your doing the boarders work. What's the betting the spreaders leave your boxes full of rock hard finish for you to clean out and a mess on the floor for you to brush up and clean.
Dry lining box’s🐐
7:28 scrim tape will get it lol
If you use deep enough boxes there wouldn’t be a problem, as the Dryliner would have no choice but to cut round them
You need to be packing out the boxes so they can't just make a hole wherever. Make it so they have no choice but to cut it out precisely
Have you not used 35mm boxes?, they’ve got no choice but to cut around them right then.
have you tried the sockitz safety shields before? what's your opinion on them? looks like they could help for a situation like this.
Yes. I’m not fully sold on them. Good idea but the little nipples on them that are designed to leave an imprint on the plasterboard are not durable and break off easily. They do keep muck out of the boxes but again need to be very careful and run a blade around perimeter when removing for 2nd fix.
@@MS-Patriot2 that's good to know. thanks
Just used some myself on a job, plasterer loved them and the holes are perfect.
Would a rotozip not be perfect work for this process?
Doesn't it make more sense to cut out the plasterboard from the wall and then offer the resulting piece up to the spare plasterboard sheet as a guide to cutting out the bit that's going back into the wall?
That's what he does at 7:38
@SparkcatcherFox No, it isn't. He does it the other way round, cutting the replacement piece from the spare plasterboard and then fitting that to the wall. And that's my point.
You've probably already said before but what software do you use for certz, using napits fast test and it's painfully slow to fill out
Easy cert , by tysoft mate
Hi mate, I’ve been watching in the background for a while now, love your content! off topic for this video…. What bag would you recommend for a fire and security engineer? Thanks bro 😎
Either the new nb-200 that’s out end of November mate , which can carry a fair bit, or nb-100 that can carry a small amount of hand tools bud
That template not for fast fix boxes ?? 👍
Might be mate, seemed way too big
That’s the wrong board for a start that’s for tape and fill 👍
No sure what you mean bud?
@@NBundyElectrical if you look at where the boards meet there 100 mm a side where the boards a bit thinner ie you run tape up it then fill it then rub it down ie no plastering ? At least that’s what it looks like to me 👍 great video once again 🙂
It's tapered edge plaster board.
Usually used for tape and joint rather than skim.
No harm in using tapered board for a skim, gives you a thicker joint. Probably best to fill the tapers and let it set a bit first though.
you are the MacGyver of drywalling...
Ask slabber to drill 20mm holes for cables , why put boxes on 1st ?
Best to do it now rather than after and getting the blame for damages. You used the wrong screws for the plasterboard, small tip ;)
What is the purpose of having the plaster board so far of the wall?
normally happens when the walls out of square and they try and get the boards square, however, judging by those box cut outs, its probably the boards out of square lol
How come the boxes were so far back. If the plasterboard was originally down to be battened out then deeper boxes, pack out the boxes or even use plasterboard boxes. Looks like someone changed their mind or bad communication.
It was only meant to be dabbed out 25mm, then I turned up to this