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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ก.ย. 2024
- Since time began, sharpening drill bits has always been a bane; especially for woodworkers. There are multitudes of jigs out there including the Drill Doctor and that devilish General #825 to name a couple. Trouble is, they all cost in terms of money and time and they all fail miserably in providing a truly sharp bit in a reasonable amount of time. You can adapt my jig with any sanding situation you have (even your bench grinder) and the repeatable accurate results with my jig are guaranteed to leave your drilling woes behind you.
The General drill sharpener that was purchased at the yard sale works very well, in fact i improved on it making the numbers easier to read and more accurate , drill bits have two cutting surfaces/side you could not achieve by the hand method of your approach.
The best demo on sharpening a drill bit, Thank you.
Hey..... Don't worry in the least about negative criticism. We all do what we find the best and the easiest way to do things. If the end result is a tool that cuts good, then if standing on our heads got it that way then so be it. I might make up something similar both for drill bits and for lathe tools.... Simple jigs are as good as not so simple jigs.
That jig you got from the yard sale works amazingly well. It's not hard to use. the manual has like 4 pages, with large print
Thanks Joe. Nice video
You deserve million like bro thanks
LOL'' I bought that same piece of crap metal jig myself and have never used it'' Will give your jig a go, looks like it works good'' cheers!
Buy a drill point gauge and learn to hand sharpen and go thru your bits and by the 5 th one you will get it
Great Jig, thanks for sharing.
Steven Waskewicz y q
I have near same thing// I use 6 inch diamond lapidary disk have 60 80 240 600 800 1200 3000 grit i sharpen every thing with them I am wood worker try them disk you will love them faster and much cooler they last a very long time
jig is OK except that the bottom of your pivot block should lay flat on your base board and no radius on the front.This will start the sharpening of both sides of bit at same level. please respond! THANK YOU!
thank you for sharing . seems to work for you so good go.
i was always told if u dont know how to maintain a tool u shouldnt be using it...and that has stood me well in all aspects of life....i was sharpening bits, chisels, knives and even saws wen i was a kid.....ppl buying sharpeners for £300 and still dont know how to use them correctly.....nothing beats the the feel of a tool in ur hand, ur touch is better than and machine will ever be...imho
+Brat4PrimeMinister I know what you're saying and agree, to a point, but your hand can only get you so much precision, once you venture into .0001"/.0025mm land, your hand can't really keep up with a proper machine.
And then you age and your eyes aren't what they once were.
Sharpening small bits with that jig would not work! That 825 might take a few minutes to setup and learn how to use but its does small bits with ease. If you want to sell that 825 I'd take it off your hands anytime.
Great! All you need to know when I comes to sharpening bits on a power sander.
Brilliant way to save money. What grit, though?
When a new disc in put on it's 80 grit - after some use sanding wood it probably gets to a worn 100 grit maybe 120.
One of the few jigs I have seen that have any sort of potential, but the problem of "balancing" the edges remains. I have an Eclipse (manual) drill sharpening jig, (this one: www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/eclipse-39-drill-bit-sharpener-166015107) bought a few decades ago, which is run over a sheet of 100-grit Aluminium oxide sandpaper. It takes about a minute to set up and produces sharp, even cutting edges on the drill bit. This jig has a back stop that ensures that the bit is properly centered. The eccentric wheels on the back provide the correct curve on the faces of the bit.
I'm going to see if I can adapt your jig to accommodate this feature: it may mean having to attach a piece of angle iron to the "rocker" and welding a nut to it, through which a bolt can be turned to act as the backstop.
There is no need to rubbish a divide that has been working for years
What grit paper do you use, what make of disc sander is that? what size?
+John Olynyk It's worn out 80 grit. The make of disc sander is I Made It In My Shop. The size is 16" - the link to it is www.twistedknotwoodshop.com/sanding.htm
J
Sorry meant above the drill.
why bother with such a contraption? faster and more control if done on a bench grinder like i do.
Jesus! What a piece of shit.hahaha That was funny.Smart guy. I would like to see your shop.
WELL U R WRONG DRILL DOCTER IS THE CATS ASS THEY DO A GREAT JOB
Taking the Lord's name in vain was not necessary!
If the cradle pivot center was in the same plane as the bit's center while being sharpened, you wouldn't need to push the bit into the sanding disk as the cradle is rotated upwards. The heel of web behind the edge being sharpened would then extend past the circle radius from cradle pivot to sanding disk, formed as the cradle is rotated upwards. If the cradle pivot point is adjustable (eg: riding in a slot in the cradle and jig), the heel relief can be adjusted to suit the diameter of the bit. This would allow consistent heel relief for each cutting edge vs. relying on operator skill. A stop in the cradle behind the bit would also factor out the major part of variation between flutes due to operator control.
I have a drill Doctor, and chucked it. And went back to hand sharping, seen your video made it. Clamp it down to my sander. couldn't believe how well this wood jig worked. I ended up playing with it for over a hour sharping Drill bit. I plan on up grading it a little.
you should of went for a Patent its that good.
Ron
Nope, sorry, you cannot get a drill bang on correct that way, you might as well just hold it in your hands. How do you know you've got both flutes exactly the same length? You can't, you were just guessing, that's what that lovely professional jig had all those little 'doodads' for, to set the drill at the correct angles and control how much was ground off each edge. Don't knock something you don't understand.
As for the exit side being crisp, that's just hooey! A brand new twist drill will chip all around the exit of just about any wood you care to put it through, it's not designed to make a clean hole, the only way you stand a chance is if you have a backing board clamped hard to the piece you're drilling through for the drill to run into or better still, a flat bit or an auger bit with a spike that pokes through warning you to stop, turn the job around and drill through from the other side.
Twist drills are primarily for drilling metal and need to be ground accurately, far more accurately than this, there are purpose designed bits for drilling wood.
There are too many amateurs on TH-cam telling people who know even less how to do stuff, it annoys the hell outta me!
The so called piece of shit jig is 1000 times better than your few planks. When you cutting steel you need to be exactly aligned. Metal work requires setting up things correctly and that jig is just great if you took the trouble to set it up.
You have helped me in solving my problem. So simple and your explanation was clear.Thanks,,Thanks for your idea.
I persevered with a Drill Doctor for years. Never got a good result, too much flex in the whole plot..I do 'em by eye now with an angle grinder. Works for me.....
Building the drill bit jig would have been easier if you gave the dimensions.
I have and used a sharpener like that general for over 35 years. If you want a drill sharpened to better than new condition, and you want to take the extra 30 seconds to set it up. You can not beat how perfect it will sharpen a twist drill. You can adjust every aspect and angle on the bits. If any one has trouble I will be glad to help you out.
I would very much appreciate someone to show me how to set one up and use it properly
thanks
+denison gunner You can down load the manual from the net. Set up is straight forward and easy to use, consistent results every time
Check out Greg Halligan's workshop video comparing the Drill Doctor to the Craftsman/General drill sharpening jig. He uses an 8" bench grinder. However, I took a suggestion of his to use a belt sander with the jig and built a simple step to mount the jig with my 1" x 30" Delta belt sander. Works great! These devices are way easy to use and will deliver consistent excellent results every time. IF IF IF people will just read the instructions completely and take the time to set it up right from the first. Big IF, I know.
I have a General 825. It is OK. It will get drill bit cutting lips even.
The only thing I would add to this video would be a demo drilling with a dull bit then after sharpening the bit show how it drills through metal.
It works for him. I admire his ingenuity and willingness to share his ideas. Most of the comments are constructive if not appreciative. Some comments could have been deleted immediately. Good job. Glad to see it. I like making jigs.
Ditto from me. One tip I might add from unfortunate experience is to lose the particle board for stuff like that. I've got a whole shop full of nice accessories and jigs I built for my radial saw and routers which I now wished didn't have any p.board components. Much of it is still usable, but some has lumps and swelling which cancels out the work I put into making it accurate. I now figure if I plan on using it more than once, it's at least worth birch plywood or something.
Take Care
Freehand and lots of practice is still the best! Some people just don’t have it?
Or are just too lazy to try and learn!
Hi Joe,
I have used a face sander to sharpen drills and other metal objects for many years now. One thing that I have learned the hard way is that if there is a build-up of wood dust in the sander, it can set on fire. Not right away, but may-be many minutes later when you are not in the room to see it catch fire. This is more likely to happen if there is a blower fitted to exstract the dust into a container as it fans any sparks.
Another tip that I use is with two hexigon nuts of the same size. Put the nuts next to each other side by side on a flat surface resting on thier flats, then use the 60 degee's angle between the nuts to judge if the drills are equal on both sides and that the angle is near to 59 degree's.
I hope that these tip's help others, as much as your tips have helped me.
A more probable fire risk, is when people grind a lot of aluminum, and then start to grind iron or steel, which creates "Thermite" (the iron oxide burns fiercely with the aluminum dust)... Actually, most steel train rails are welded by burning aluminum dust with iron oxide. The chemical reaction is extremely energetic (exothermic).
I have been using a jig like the one you don't like (Craftsman) and I love it. it keeps the relief exact on each side.
You're a good problem solving individual. Thanks for the great idea.
God, I hate bloody Trolls. Instead of knocking, why not show a little appreciation of ingenuity? I bet the Wright brothers had Trolls.
Drill Doctor much much better, but your jig makes perfect sense - the only thing that is tough is doing both flutes equally with your jig. If it works for you then go for it! I have a drill doctor and after two boxes of dull bits, I broke down and bought one. Fantastic is my only response. Now I have too many drill bits!
Thank you Joe for the idea for a sharpening jig. Your jig looks fairly simple and practical.
It may be possible to acquire the skill to do a perfect job of sharpening the bit with your bare hands. But that may take years. A jig allows you to reach that level of perfection in hours if not minutes. Sharpening a bit without a jig looks like trying to draw a 12 inch straight line without a ruler.
Clever! If you want more subs, feel free to embed your video on our homemade tools forum; looks like you're one of us :-)
I like it, but I would have made a way to quickly clamp the bit down. I would also have made the fixture fit in the track, so you could move it to a fresh place on your sanding disk. After sharpening 6-8 bits, I'll bet your sand paper wears through to the backing plate. Thanks for the great idea,,,
no relief added, it just moves away
Nice idea and you maybe able to sharpen brill bits to drill wood with your little jig just fine; however I don't use those bits on wood I use those types on different types of metal what they were designed for. I cannot see down to a thousandth of an inch so I will use the tool you called junk because your too lazy to set it up. the tool works well and is very accurate if used properly. they have been around for nearly 75 years and mine is under the Craftsman name. I have mine setup on a grinder and it takes just a minute to load a bit grind it razor sharp with the point dead center of the bit
knifesharpen
DS75921 o
His tool would word good if he knew how to use it better. The angle is key, but there is 2 angles per side. When make the first major cut you will notice the blade not hitting is more less on a 90. or straight up. then to do your blade rotate clockwise till the point that was facing up directly matches point on the other side. But I agree with what your saying. Shit like this is to more less get you out a bind. Say at camp need a bit or a buddies place who lives to far to drive home to drill a dam hole and it snaps, tools not with you. If like me there is no way in fucking hell i'll claim defeat, I call Geeter.. you know.. Geeter fuckin Dune..lol
"Mostly by eye"....LOL!
I don't believe for a second that this is as accurate as the "piece of crap drill doctor jig" You have absolutely no believe in there, but Your jig could be useful on bigger drill bits. Have doubts on the smaller ones, though... Let us know how You are doing on them! Let's say from 5 mm bits and down...
Hey Joe, I just stumbled a crossed your channel looking for how to videos. I've been throwing away drill bits for years. I've tried sharpening them and never get a good quality cut I'm looking for. I thought about a drill doctor. look at them, almost purchase it and then put it back on the shelf. I know if you add up all the drillbits I've tossed it would probably pay for several drill doctors! Your simple jig is the stuff I like! If you don't have the right tool make it! Thanks!
I've been ruining drill bits on my Drill Doctor for years. Saw your video last night. Built a similar one today. This is the first time I've managed to sharpen a drill bit which drills a satisfactory hole. Thanx for sharing your thoughts on this great jig. jp
ps. threw my Drill Doctor machine in the garbage. That company is probably liable for fraud and misrepresentation charges.
Had my Drill Doctor for years. Money well spent, love it.
Just thought of something? If you made the fulcrum of the turning point just below the drill, the action of turning the drill to give clearance would be done automatically and you would not have to move the drill towards the sander by hand to give clearance.
Excellent idea. One commenter above thought the same.
Joe Johns, your sharpening jig IMHO is nicer than gold. This is mastery. Salute Sir.
"jesus...what a piece of shit".....never a truer word spoken...designed by an idiot for other idiots to buy.....keep it simple...keep it cheap....nice vid :)
Brat4PrimeMinister exactly, Joe Johns's tool is the work of a craftsman. That sci-fi piece of shit, well ..... B4PM well said!! idiots4idiots. Never a true statement spoken!!
alsatian9130 i can count on ur vote then
you betcha. Just need a bit more detail. You got my vote. Just like that
Hi Joe, the best ever......industries like to make everything so difficult and you did it so simple........my hero......greetings from Aruba. Vale.
Very Nice! I'll take a homemade jig built to spec any day over something so complicated. Haven't bothered learning this skill but my drawer of dull bits is overflowing and my index missing too many important sizes.
Give a man a bit and he'll drill for a day. Give him a jig and.......
P OS is exactly right. Thank you. I thought I lost all my eye/hand coordination when I tried to use it. Junk.
Thanx! Now, after watching this, I went to my grinder which has a positionable tool rest for up, down, and tilt. Putting my diy drill guide on (just angle iron mounted on a small board with a keyway attached beneath to sit in the slot) and as I'd been manually tilting the bit upward to grind the relief, I realized all I had to do was loosen the tilt clamp and...voila! Just the same as your jig!
I hate to tell you, but the General is much faster, and way more accurate. If you read the instructions, you will see that it is only a matter of bringing the bit into contact with the grinding medium, and swinging it back and forth, no raising and pushing, and it sharpens it exactly to spec.
I made one to see if I could do it, I was so surprised when it actually sharpened my drill bits,,,,THE FIRST TIME. With arthritis it is hard to hold the small bit but I could do it. I did put a stop so the bit addresses the disc level. A great addition to my work, thank you Joe.
You still haven't guaranteed that the bit tip is centered ! The result of that is only one flute is cutting.
Ad a stop to the bottom of the drill bit and you may have it.
Drill bits are all about equal sides.
Simple and Easy. Good Job. I just saw it now, it could helped me before , but I will use this method from now. Thanks man. :)
That's really good! I made one with a 180 degree 'V' shape but this is easier to use. Thanks for the video...
It would help if you had the pivot table level each time and did not hit the bit on the sanding block when resetting the bit for the next pass.
THE Worst jig I see .
Sorry, but I'm with Joe, So simple, so easy, I'll be making myself one of these.
Thanks Joe, Well done
nice job and good presentation. i will make one too.
its like reinventing the wheel .. ive tried em all. i still use my first method . a block of wood and my eye. your way i would need several different sized jigs. but its the best and easiest ive seen
Thanks for sharing Joe. You could add a magnifying glass and light to sharpen small drill bits.
Add some wax to lubricate the pivoting piece and the back plate,and also on the bed that the bit rests on.
I think the wooden one is `the piece of shit` The General is great!
Brilliant, this is so simple and effective.
Great idea, thank you!!
It's a really bad idea to use a wood sander on metal IMHO. Compare the hardness of the materials and the intended use of the machine.
Avoid - Not the brightest bulb in the pack!
This popped up in my feed as there were other similar videos on utube.
I was told Ai is handling what people see. Nice video, well done.
I would have liked to see you test the drill bit by drilling a hole to see how crisp it would be. I'm impressed I imagine there would be no tear out despite not having a backing on the material been drilled. Great little invention.
I also believe in keeping it simple. Thanks for sharing. Nice jig
Isn't that paper only for wood sanding? For metal you need a grinding disc. You can get cheap ones to attach to a drill or use a bench grinder. The right tool/material for the job comes to mind.
Excellent idea! Thanks
i think the idea is brilliant,unfortunately if we think globalised...to much talking that make people who dont understand your chat make this video boring..anyway hope you can bring the idea more in future.thanks
Your idea is halfway there.
In your video you show the drill bit on top of a pivoting cradle which makes the drill bit moce away from the sander as its pivoted up to grind the relief and the user having to feed the drill bit towards the sander to grind the relief. What if you changed the pivot point and have the drill bit under the pivot point, it would then feed in automatically to grind the relief.
Lol, all the complicated bs on that jig you showed was probably designed like that so it would look fancy enough to market. If Joe Bob saw your design for sale he'd just make his own... xD
Reminds me of those dowel guides some people put on their hand drills; even with all the bells and whistles they never seem to be capable of drilling a straight hole, but it looks fancy so people buy and use them anyway.
if it works for you man, go on and use your set up. for my needs, and demands, and some of the idiots i work with lol, this is a loss of finger tips. guess thats why i have the lil more costly drill bits and always sharp and theres are cheap-o-s and smoked or dull or even broke. i have a drill dr at work and one of them there piece of shits you showed, its in my tool box collecting dust, normally i use a cheap 3.5" harbor shit variable bench grinder for drill bits on one stone, and tungsten for my tig welder on the other stone. i have even used a hand grinder with a floppy pad, hard stone and a cut off wheel. in a pinch when im out in the field and dont have that all with me, i bust out my little ol diamond stone knife/ fish hook sharpener to dress and edge up some, now years ago if i had seen this video. but internet wasnt out for public and well google and you tube wasnt even thought of even, i would of used it
Thanks, Love the simple functional design. Good job.
Have been disappointed with the crap jigs from the hardware store and have been looking for something simple and was taken by your approach. Will be making one tomorrow. Only a DIY - no tradesman, so should do me fine. Cheers Joe for sharing your jig.
How do you tell if you are grinding more on one side ? With that POS it has a screw to keep the bit the same length on each side. The drill doctor is more perfect. With your home made jig you can get it to work one or two times then your bit is all out of shape.
thank
I`ve read most of the comments & just wonder why some people are willing to spend 1/2 day to set a jig up enstead of sharpening the bit in a couple of minutes
Good jig well thought out. Rather than pushing the drill forward. If you tilt the jig up with the drill on the back edge touching the sandpaper, then come down to the cutting edge, you won't have to move the drill on the jig.
I however do like your design.
"Jesus. What a piece of shit." That had me cracking up. Nice jig and good video!
I like what made , but cant tell that both sides are the same if adjust scerw it the bottom of your bite
Just a grinder will do
great idea ,
Thanks for sharing
Very handy device. Simple is always best. Take care, be safe!
Awesome, top of the list idea
I'm afraid my Russian, Crylic, Subterranean or whatever language this is, is a little rusty. Can you give it to me in English?
Couldn't be simpler. Perfect. Difficult to believe.
It shows up the misplaced tech of the production item.
Still judgement needed. Experience is the key therefore the jig only works for the 59 relief angle.
I thought it was called a twist drill? Not to be confused with a brace and bit.
Interesting setup. Please tell us something about the disk sander as well.
great idea Joe, Thanks
Large drill bits are very easy to sharpen by hand on the bench grinder, fine stone. But , my precision work require small drill bits for metals, carbon steel, brass, aluminum, stainless steel, copper white metal. How does your rig work on drill bits 1/8 inch diameter and smaller, all the way down to number 60 ?
I have nearly 100 of them waiting for sharpening. Best regards, Patricia,
Drill bits smaller than 1/4" or 3/16" are HARDER to sharpen, either with a jig or machine or by hand. Trying to sharpen such small bits as 1/8 or much smaller is a matter of luck, and those are so inexpensive that it is counter productive to try.
that's a very good idea and simple too. I do videos too on utube about beekeeping with just common sense approach keep up the great videos.
Don.
Simple and Elegant