Thanks to your video, I successfuly changed belt on my brother's car. Thank you I had tough time getting the engine mount to meet the engine, so be prepared with patience and maybe a second lift or another helping person. I worked it myself with no additional lift. Also, loosen up the long tensioning bolt already before removing the larger bolt (but the larger bult MUST be loosened up) . That loosenes the alternator and makes installation of the new belt easier.
Thanks for the tutorial, I couldnt have done it without your video. I have to add that getting the engine mount to lineup when lifting the engine at the end was a foooking nightmare. I had to use two crow bars and operate the jack at the same time to get it done :)
Thanks man, this is the only video I could find showing how to replace the drive belt for a Yaris or just Toyota where the alternator and adjusting bolt is at the rear of the engine. They really made it hard to change the belt on this model compared to other models with tensioner pulley or alternator in the front!
@@expressdiy6956 Not yet, I'm slowly learning how to get there! First car for me so I'm just learning how to jack it up and how to change the tire yesterday. The wheel was rust-welded on so I had to drive a little back and forth to pop it. When I finally got the wheel off I could see the alternator pivot screw. However I can't figure out how I should reach the motor mount screw underneath. Do you unscrew it from the top with an extension or from below under the car? What kind of extension did you use? My car also has those plastic shields to protect the engine from the side and underneath, haven't figured out how to remove those yet.
@@reactnativetutorial651 if you wanna reach the bottom engine mount screw, you have to remove the wheel. Then remove the plastic covers that you stated. They have screws that hold it together. Some screws and some clips. I'm sure you can find a video on how to remove it . So what I used to reach the bottom nut was a ratchet and longest extension I had . And a long 14mm socket . BE CAREFUL you dont round the nut.
After much fiddling, I found the order the belt is installed from the top makes a big difference. First install it on the two large bottom pulleys. They are the hardest to reach. Next, keeping tension of the belt so it doesn't slip off those pulleys, wrap the belt around the small alternator pulley at the top. All that remains is to slide the belt around the water pump pulley beneath the alternator pulley. Since that one doesn't have a v-notch, you can force it in place more easily that the others. Then tighten up the belt with the alternator.
Thanks man. Helped a lot. My car had a extra cover between the wheel arch and the engine. But the lower nut of the engine mount could be removed from the top. I got access from the area of the manifold.
I unbolted the three bolts between the engine mount and car body and jacked the engine up and juggled the belt under the mount .. slightly easier ? But thanks , good video I might have to change it in another 23 years😂
I will need to have a look to really understand your question. Way i showed in video in my opinion is the best way . Any reason why you are look for a different way ?
@@expressdiy6956 Just thought two bolts rather than three and easier access. Doing the belt in my Mums Vitz on the weekend, will let you know. Great video too...very hard to find this procedure elsewhere so happy I found this. Cheers
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Thanks to your video, I successfuly changed belt on my brother's car. Thank you
I had tough time getting the engine mount to meet the engine, so be prepared with patience and maybe a second lift or another helping person. I worked it myself with no additional lift.
Also, loosen up the long tensioning bolt already before removing the larger bolt (but the larger bult MUST be loosened up) . That loosenes the alternator and makes installation of the new belt easier.
Thanks for the tutorial, I couldnt have done it without your video. I have to add that getting the engine mount to lineup when lifting the engine at the end was a foooking nightmare. I had to use two crow bars and operate the jack at the same time to get it done :)
Thanks man, this is the only video I could find showing how to replace the drive belt for a Yaris or just Toyota where the alternator and adjusting bolt is at the rear of the engine. They really made it hard to change the belt on this model compared to other models with tensioner pulley or alternator in the front!
How did you get on?
It can be tricky. Especially if it's your first attempt
@@expressdiy6956 Not yet, I'm slowly learning how to get there! First car for me so I'm just learning how to jack it up and how to change the tire yesterday. The wheel was rust-welded on so I had to drive a little back and forth to pop it. When I finally got the wheel off I could see the alternator pivot screw. However I can't figure out how I should reach the motor mount screw underneath. Do you unscrew it from the top with an extension or from below under the car? What kind of extension did you use? My car also has those plastic shields to protect the engine from the side and underneath, haven't figured out how to remove those yet.
@@reactnativetutorial651 if you wanna reach the bottom engine mount screw, you have to remove the wheel. Then remove the plastic covers that you stated. They have screws that hold it together. Some screws and some clips. I'm sure you can find a video on how to remove it . So what I used to reach the bottom nut was a ratchet and longest extension I had . And a long 14mm socket . BE CAREFUL you dont round the nut.
@@expressdiy6956 Thanks man I'm gonna try and remove the plastic covers and reach it from below!
No problem man best of luck .
After much fiddling, I found the order the belt is installed from the top makes a big difference. First install it on the two large bottom pulleys. They are the hardest to reach. Next, keeping tension of the belt so it doesn't slip off those pulleys, wrap the belt around the small alternator pulley at the top. All that remains is to slide the belt around the water pump pulley beneath the alternator pulley. Since that one doesn't have a v-notch, you can force it in place more easily that the others. Then tighten up the belt with the alternator.
Good advice bud
@@expressdiy6956 _annita [
Ah man the engine mount thing is more work than i expected for such a little engine.
It's easy with loads of access
Just take out the engine to repair it 😂 I'd heat to replace the timing chain and timing chain kit 😮
Thanks man. Helped a lot. My car had a extra cover between the wheel arch and the engine. But the lower nut of the engine mount could be removed from the top. I got access from the area of the manifold.
Glad it helped bud .
Thank you so muth for your video ,it reale helpfull.
thanks a lot man, you really helped me a lot and saved me 200 euros
Your welcome 💪glad it helped
Thank you friendo. Couldnt make it without your help.
This has been a very very big help.
Thank you!
Your welcome 😎
Excellent video how long the socket extension should b for access the bottom bolt
Awesome job. keep working!!
thank you for making this
I unbolted the three bolts between the engine mount and car body and jacked the engine up and juggled the belt under the mount .. slightly easier ? But thanks , good video
I might have to change it in another 23 years😂
They certainly go forever
Great video. Very informative. Thanks.
scusami ma non si puo' togliere la cinghia direttamente da sotto senza togliere il supporto motore? grazie
The main leap from the Starlet to the Yaris was making it less easy to maintain.
no cambelt though. moved onto timing chains with the yaris
thanks to your video
Good video! Thanks :)
what is the size of the belt you use ?
Thus practical science I love it
Thank you for the great video:)
Glad you found it useful. Any recommendations for future videos which you would like to see.
Great vid
When I'm changing my fan belt I may as well change the alternator for peace of mind I'd hate to do the timing chain kit 😮
Awesome, thanks 😊
Your welcome. Consider subscribing not to miss any upcoming videos.
Thank you bro
Neat and smart
Toyota designers thought it would be a good idea to have to remove engine mount and wheel just to replace alternator belt. Smh.
Hi, can you unbolt the engine mount where it joins to the frame instead?
I will need to have a look to really understand your question.
Way i showed in video in my opinion is the best way . Any reason why you are look for a different way ?
@@expressdiy6956 Just thought two bolts rather than three and easier access. Doing the belt in my Mums Vitz on the weekend, will let you know. Great video too...very hard to find this procedure elsewhere so happy I found this. Cheers
Best if luck bud. Glad its helpful
What’s the belt size ?
Great little car that seems to last forever, but that is an anus of a job for a belt.
If belt problem how i know car sound change are other sound coming
Didn't understand your question.
How much
If the video helped you.
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Drive over this way over here
I would have take the nut of the engine mount that would be more easy then you take off the 3 nut
Can you tell me the belt number?
Unfortanly i dont have the car anymore . And i wouldnt know it on top of my head . Sorry for late response.
Fan belt nummber
6pk780
Innocent boy
Hope your subscribed. 💪
What size is the belt??