Great video! A month ago I was looking at 60cc saws and went with the Echo just because my wallets been light. I've only run 3 tanks of gas through it and so far I'm VERY impressed with what Echo gave me for my money! That 620 pulls like a mule! And it might be the easiest starting saw I've ever run aside from my Dolmar.
For those claiming you are using too much bar for these two saws - If you are cutting 18" logs, I really don't think it matters if it is a 20" bar or a 28" bar. If you're tall, your back may feel the difference. Outside of a little extra bar friction created by the extra bar length, I wouldn't predict much difference between the two (if the bars are oil properly). I think changing one's drive sprocket will change chain speed. I don't see bar length changing chain speed that much unless you are in way more wood with the longer bar. So here is one of your future videos - two identical chains (same pitch, same gauge, same type of tooth (semi-chisel or full) sharpened exactly the same). The only difference is one is on a 20" bar, & the other is on a 27/28" bar. Cut an approximately 18" log with both. My hypothesis is that the difference in cutting time won't be that great. Take this a step further in another video using the same bars/chains - try cutting a 24"+ diameter log with both. Which would get the job faster now? It would one pass with a longer bar versus needing two cuts with the shorter bar. Those who bark that's too much bar for that saw - it really depends on how you are using it & what type of wood you are cutting in my opinion. Let's say someone is ripping through 18" logs using a 70cc saw with a 20" bar. It's not the short bar that's making the difference, it's the extra power of that 70cc chainsaw that's ripping through those logs!
I completely agree! I have always thought that maybe the extra length really wouldn't slow it down all the much in equal sized wood. Honestly, the 620 is so strong buried in 24 inches of oak, the larger bar does NOT worry me at all! I really do think that a properly sharp chain on these saws can adequately be pulled with the power that these 60cc can make. I also prefer a longer bar most of the time simply because it allows me to position myself more safely around hazard conditions. I always want to be able to provide as much space as possible between a Snag and myself. Also, it allows a further reach while keeping the power head closer to the body. I sometimes watch guys in Europe cutting with 18 and 20in bars and am astonished at their technique and ability. I cannot help but wonder though if the tree would have been on the ground 2-3x faster if they were able to cut all the way through in one pass. Again, work positioning to me is critical. They literally have to work 360 degrees around a tree. I often want to do no such thing. Now, I do have intentions to test different length bars on the same wood and I will do my best (budget allowing) to make the test interesting. We think alike!
Paid $592 for my echo cs 620pw with 27 inch bar and two chains. 93 drive link, it's actually a 28" bar. It's a rebranded oregon powercut bar. Muffler moded, it's a lovely saw for any job.
@@oakiewoodsman yes sir, work the sht out of it here in Alaska. Excellent winter setting in 20 below cutting and good torque in frozen wood. The 5 year warranty has been sweet. 2 years later, the brake handle broke at the chain break toggle. Part sent north, no questions asked. 3 more years of warranty coverage left.
@@oakiewoodsman thanks for running a good underdog echo, and talking them up. No problems with oiler, but have had problems with oilers stripping out on a husq 55, jonsered 2172 and a stihl ms 660 mag in the winter. Yep, it's my main felling saw. I've dropped a bunch of 24-30" white spruce. My jonsered 2172 (rebadged husq 372 xtorq) is locked in the lewis winch. From 60 cc sawsn I tend to skip right over the 70 cc stuff and go right to a ported echo cs 8000.
@@michaelmanzo1716 that is what I had heard something about the worm gear on the Echo being metal instead of plastic like on Husky or Stihl. You know, it is my opinion that each and every product has strengths and weaknesses and to ignore weaknesses on a favorite brand and only focus on the strengths on your favorite brand is not being honest. The echo is a great value for a solid, reliable saw.
I feel like you get more with the echo. It comes with a full wrap handle, it has a bigger fuel capacity and oil capacity and the warranty is better. It’s a five year warranty to be exact and it’s quite a bit cheaper. I wish they’d get rid of the janky toggle switch though but outside of that I think I’m going to end up going with the echo over a new stihl or husqy
Nice comparison of the two saws, but a lot of bar for either one in my opinion. I can see your left arm jumping with the Echo, Husky does look smoother for sure. Others will say that you pay a lot extra for that smoothness. I still don't think the Husky auto tune is right on that saw, needs to field adjust the idle to make it start right.
Appreciate the comment. I am going to do the field reset eventually and hopefully it will help out with the warm start issue. I figured I would run the saw a bit and see if it would sort itself out but it would probably be better to just do the reset.
If he's cutting an 18" log, what difference does it make if it's a 20" bar vs 28" bar (outside of having to bend over more)? I agree that burying a 28' bar in hardwood all the time may be a bit much, but I don't see a shorter bar length doing anything for him with this particular log.
Try w/ your 562 hot starts issues. -Allow a cool down idle / briefly before shutting off. -Then examine before starting if the fuel tanks is pressurized. -Engage hi idle & prime, for cycling cooler fuel thru carb . -Also: try After 1st starting (cold) , allow saw to slow idle for 3 minutes /warm up . ( a reset, part of ) w/o working the trottle . - after warm , high end reset (field) .
Agreed! If I was in the market to make a bar purchase, a light 24in bar would be phenomenal on the 562! It would be balanced so well and the saw in my opinion, easily would handle it. Thanks again for sharing. Appreciate you being here, watching and commenting. Thank you!
@@jeffreyrudolph5061 sounds a lot like what @afleetcommand recommends. He likes to use the purge to get cooler fuel into the carb. Now, I certainly can get better at letting the saw cool a bit after cutting. I do fairly well at making sure it is warm before running it wide open in the cut. But often, I just flip her off and I know that is a NO NO. You may see my other videos too but the saw is certainly starting just fine now. I really like AutoTune. I am very curious to see if it will operate as well as my 545. What I mean is, I never have to fast idle it to start it warm. I am kinda just seeing what the saw will do all on its own. Thanks for the comments!
I go looking to help people with fallen trees. I rarely even take any wood but sometimes that is where we get more from. th-cam.com/video/dWLBTKSE5Lo/w-d-xo.htmlsi=bwh3SI3tkJwJ-L8I
Echo has really stepped up their game with the 590, 620p, and 7310p. Those 3 saws outlast the Stihl MTronic saws and the Husqvarna Autotune saws. Been testing that theory for years and the Echo's are still going. The Stihls and Husqvarnas are piling up in the bone yard. Echo wins in longevity and torque. I'd rather have a lot of torque than speed. "If it runs fast, it won't last" and that saying has been true so far.
Echo saws are set to run rich until broken in from the factory, and once broken it, lean in on the high-speed jet a little and you'll find a lot more power, you can hear it bogging down, it hasn't been adjusted
This saw did wake up once it was run through some tanks of fuel. Easily near the 10 tank mark like many say. This saw has since been ported, the H jet in the carb replaced with a non limited one and the muffler opened up. This saw is a great saw and has been reliable. The Oiler failed for some reason and was replaced under warranty. The limiters were modified and the saw is completely tunable now. At the time of this video, the saw was turned up as much as possible from the dealer. It is as close as it could get to the specified RPM numbers via dealer Tach. After extensive use of this saw, I have also found that it takes more than just a minute of cutting to truly get it warmed up. I honestly find that the job is done by the time the saw is running at peak operation when bucking up small firewood. I just doesn't get to peak operating temps quickly. I also do not chase the tuning because if I clean up the top end when nearly warm, it is too lean once hot. The 562XP proved to be a problem child and got repaired....... I thought. I was just running it yesterday and caught it doing some similarly weird stuff like it once had done before. Videos continue to come out! Thank you for watching! Here is a video with the ported 620 in it. th-cam.com/video/eWQ-xLsHEUM/w-d-xo.htmlsi=1aZ-X6-Dn4e8zYyc
you are 100% correct! The 620p is the saw to get if you care for a bit more performance but really, even the 590 would get the job done for many. I find that the 620P is a worthwhile marginal expense however.
I feel bad for my echo 620, I haven’t touched it since I got my 562 all ported up. I’ve had the 562 2 weeks ago and have ran just over 5 gallons through it, that saw is nasty and so nice to run.
Who ported it? Is yours the Mark ii? I love my 562 so much and it truly is a pleasure to run in comparison but I am not sure it would hold up well being ported. My 620 has been ported. Thanks for watching, sharing and being here!
@@oakiewoodsman nope, haven’t had not one issue with it hot starting, and I have intentionally ran it real hard and shut it off for a restart several times. It’s really my favorite saw.
when hot, the saw restarts easily. If it sits for a couple minutes and heatsoakes, you have to pump purge and fast idle it. My 545 always works, my 562 has this issue. Knew it when I bought it! Thank you!@@Powersawjunky
Did you have any issues with the bar nuts getting loose on the echo? I had a cs590 a while back and if it were not for that it would have been a great saw but the bar/chain getting loose every 2-3 cuts was a deal breaker. I'm just wondering if I'd have better luck with the 620
I actually have never had that happen on any saw and I actually do not tighten them up all that much. One time, I thought it was occurring to me and and it was something else. The oil hole is very Small on the factory bar and I personally do not like that. The clone saw I had wasn't oiling well and the chain would always loose tension because of heat I believe. Keep in mind, if the chain is dull or not getting enough oil, it will stretch and seemingly get loose. My experience has been that when cutting with a sharp chain and getting plenty of oil, my chains stay put much longer. Thanks for the question and comment. What do you cut with now?
Thanks for the reply and the info. I have an old Stihl ms039 and a new ms391 that has spent more time in the shop than the woods. I know it's cliche but they really don't make them like they used to, which is why I'm thinking about giving the echo another shot.
@@JB-57 interesting and I appreciate the information! Always good to get feedback in the comment section because there is more knowledge information here than in the video most of the time. The 590 and 620 are pretty identical. I have the 27” bar on mine and have been posting a ton with it and have a BUNCH of footage coming. It is a great saw as long as you don’t tempt yourself by EVER running one of these new computerized rockets. Just don’t do it and stay content with the tried and true. Thanks for writing back. FYI, the 620 is best with a 24 on it. If you need a long bar , buy it with it and get yourself a lighter 24 or 20 and use those most often. I think you would be happy with that.
@@oakiewoodsman I think I'm gonna give the 620 a try hopefully the bar nuts issue was a fluke or possibly even my fault. The 5 year warranty is hard to beat. Thanks again and great job on the videos 👍
I've made my decision. For the power, speed of cut, warranty and price, theres no question. Echo for the win. I'm getting mine for $510 in a couple weeks at my dealers Echo day! $340 less than the HUSKY! If it wasn't for the price, I do love the 562xp. I could forfeit the warranty, do a muffler mod and remove the carb limiters for 5.67 horsepower. Stock this advertises @ 4.4 HP compared to the 4.7 HP of the 562xp. I bet the extra power would smooth out the Echo during the cut. I cant believe Stihl wants $940 for the 362C!
Awesome! I think you have made a very good decision, especially at that price! the Echo is a very good and strong saw. I have recently removed the little deflector on the exhaust, left the screen in and leaned mine out within the range of the limiters from the factory and it is running even better. I think it will prove to be a good, durable saw for you and hopefully my videos were a bit of help for you. Thanks for letting me know and hope to see ya around some more!
@@oakiewoodsman We do think alike! I was planning on removing the deflector first, but wondered if there was enough adjustment with the limiters in. I’m glad you told me! I am not excited to beacon the dead with the full mod either, but absolutely would if it performed the way I wanted. You’re way I can keep my warranty. Just buy another deflector when I bring it in. 😎👍🏻
@@oakiewoodsman I wouldn’t have even considered it, but when you said the Husky was smoother, I knew why. That little extra power and rpm is the difference. Until I started looking for a new saw, I had no idea people were doing porting, muffler mods and all that stuff. Never even heard of it. This wait for May 6th to get my saw is making me feel like a kid waiting for Christmas!
Is the 562 XP the first iteration or the Mark 2? I have the XP Mark 2 in my shopping kart and I'm stumped on the bar length... This will be my first pro saw. I'm stumped on the 28 or the 24?
This is the last of the Mark I. Are you wanting it to stand up and buck? Have your considered the 620P? I think the 28 is a bit heavy for this light saw. Wry nose heavy. My 562 wears a 20” light bar most of the time. My ported 620 had the Husqvarna 28 on it.
For the money...hands down echo has it in every catergory...you can't deny it period point blank...husky has speed but if you dog in your done..echo has speed and the torque!
My 620 is even better now that it has been ported. It continued to improve significantly from the time of this video because it is true that they take some time to break in. Kept running better and better! Thanks for watching
@@oakiewoodsman Hey Buddy, II'm watching from Germany - and yes! You wouldn't see bars over 20" in normal logging use in forests. Sometimes you met someone with a 24" bar, but its not common. We use different cutting Technics, so we don't need to use this long bars. So on 50ccm you would use 13"-16", on 60ccm saws normaly you use 16-18" bars- everything above its 18" to 20" (24") bars.
I agree it's a bit to much bar for either saw, unless you are running full skip chain, hard to go wrong with either, I have a jonsered 2260 which is essentially same saw with the small mount of older vintage, bought it nos. Off ebay it's a 2013 model, it has given me nothing but fits, when it gets hot, vapor lock, and if you run out of a tank of fuel it is nearly impossible to start if it's hot,I'm going to modify the cover, I think from a longevity standpoint ease of maintenence perspective I would take the 620, their is something about the nylon caged crank bearings that scares me, I have a 2166 x-torq that is acting up as well, pto side bearing, but the saw is 5years old with alot of use, anyway with how hot the autotunes run I'm quite leary of crank bearing failure,and just lean condition in general, good eval.!!!
I run 40:1 amsoil Saber, and 40:1 husquavarna xp, and being in a rural village in Alaska regular old Castrol, I just don't run it in the autotune, my old Macs love it don't use bar oil either that stuff turns to molasses in anything -0 just straight old Castrol good up to -40 and 5w-30 I really think a simple muffler mod and a base gasket delete on the 620, really wake them up, I know from watching Charlie Briscos channel, that they have a ridiculous amount of squish right out of the box, not just the 620 but Echos in general, it's amazing what kinda gains he gets out of the 4910s and heck just about any saw, I have ran the 562 newer model and absolutely love it "smooth" good power, it seems like in its newest version that most of the bugs have been ironed out, however watching Jimssawsandsupply, Ithink I am going to add a few airvents to my cover and do a muffler mod to get rid of some of the heat, I understand they went to a different carb on the later versions I believe the earlier versions 560 ,562,2260,2258 had an el-46 that sometimes proved to be problematic in some but not all,they went to an el-48 and some different tuning? and solved most of the issues, I'll say one thing the balance and ergos and flickability of these saws is night and day over my 2166,2165,2172, if I can just get mine to run cooler and more consistent I'm gonna be a very happy camper, as is I don't have the capability to reprogram the autotune,the nearest husky dealership is 400 miles away and it's an airplane only proposition!
@@richfreireich4528 wow! I have read that the echo oil pumps hold up better in the extreme cold. Have you noticed that yourself? Echo is very conservative in how they built their saws. A lot is left on the table for those that want to take them further! Appreciate the comment!
Typically this is Stihl country and Husky, I haven't really had any experience with the Echos, but I like what I'm seeing out of them, I don't own any Huskys, I own their red and black cousins (johnnies) nobody uses bar oil here, just cheap 5w-30, Castrol cause it will pour in -50 its not uncommon in winter to cut in -30f whether that be a trap line trail on your snowmobile or wood for your cabin, my rebuilt promac 700 started and ran in -38 I just add a little more oil in my mix and fatten her up once she warms up the oil in the bar generally warms up,if not I just dump some on the bar as I'm cutting,that's the thing I like about the old Macs and Homelites you have that manual oiler to aid the automatic, now granted you aren't sucking the oil right out of your bar oiltank like mine was lol till I motosealed the case bolts lol! But yeah generally speaking most folks run 271s,361s,036s,026,029s,025s, as for huskies, 460s,455s,445s to name the most common with a few of the oldtimers with old Homelite superxl, as far as I know I'm the only one that uses the old Macs I just got bitten by the vintage saw bug, and in general anything chainsaw bug now I'm addicted to ebay! my next saw is gonna be the Shindy 600sx, to keep with my red and black theme in my stable, heck I just got my first poulan 4000 countervibe I'm yet to play with it, yeah bar oil is 20.00 a quart gas is 9.00 a gallon back here in rural Ak and it only gets barged down the Yukon in the fall, so gas is somewhat suspect in quality but it is what it is!!!!
Quite the commitment! It is a very different world up there. What I had heard about was the worm gear was stouter on the echo and held up better in the winter months. Thanks for all the information. Very good to hear about the way other people do things and your collection sounds awesome!
If you are cutting an 18" log with a 20" bar vs a 28" bar, I highly doubt the speed would be that much different. Outside of a little extra friction from the extra bar length, what else is changing the speed? Let's say you mark a single tooth on a chain. Just because the tooth may come around faster on a 20" bar doesn't mean it's traveling a lot faster than a marked tooth on a 28" bar.
@@driftlesshunter9200 and a longer chain with more teeth should stay "sharper", longer I believe. At the end of the day my lower back over rules everything and says long light bar FTW.
@@oakiewoodsman i i had 572 and 562 and I had a lot of trouble with the 562 she was not very old and not use the beare went on the clutch side so i put it the shop to fix it and she real hard on gas so the shop called me that it fixed he put 2 bears and crank seats and gaskets on it both of the saws was done the same way and the problems were the same thing i used all the husky mixture for the gas i had husky saws all my life i worked in the woods for 40 years and the older saws were no trouble the 372 and 365 and the 359 had no trouble at all but the new 572 and the 562 was all trouble and alot of other people having the same problem and my son got mark 2 and the same problem with it the fix costed 375 dollars to fix it iwll not buy more of that kind. What outher kind of saw do you think will fit my type of work .
Many people are unhappy with Stihl and Husqvarna in terms of longevity now. That is why so many people run the ECHO 620. Many get them ported and they are mean, well built saw that is simple with no computers. They are heavier but seemingly sturdier than the other new saws. Other than that, buy old ones and run em or start building clones with the right OEM parts and enjoy the saws of yesteryear! I am no expert but I sure appreciate you being here!
I've got the little.brother 590 echo with a 24 inch bar ans I've cut more trees and firewood with saw then most pros...and I'm talking big pines..18 to 40inches...and large oak maple cherry and beach..from falling to bucking firewood its my favorite saw ...it's reliable..and tons of power and torque and smooth for a 60cc saw!
@@oakiewoodsman Stihl was broken back then, much better saws now. Husqvarna is quite the opposite. I used to love them, now I can't stand them. in 50cc class, there is no discussion, ms261c destroys Husqvarna and Echo easily. 6occ, well, I went with Stihl here too. Robust saw, lot of power, chain speed and rpm, just doing it's job. 560 Husqvarna is a piece of crap, doing nothing at all, 562, some say it is great, some are unhappy... What I see is, you have to let these little saws do their job on their own, small Husqvarna can not handle pressure. STihl will just be faster and faster. Husqvarna just the opposite. Don't know the Echo here, but if the Husqvarna is faster, then the Stihl 362 will destroy it.
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Great video! A month ago I was looking at 60cc saws and went with the Echo just because my wallets been light. I've only run 3 tanks of gas through it and so far I'm VERY impressed with what Echo gave me for my money! That 620 pulls like a mule! And it might be the easiest starting saw I've ever run aside from my Dolmar.
You made a great choice! I think it will go down as a classic someday.
Na, it will go down as a classic , all metal , tough and fast , and half price of a stihl equal
@@ChuckBronson-zk5ztthanks for watching
Agreed! Both great saws. Love how smooth the husky is but can't hardly beat the cs-620, far as value goes.
Agreed! I would say out of pure function and value the Echo is the BEST deal! Thanks Aaron.
For those claiming you are using too much bar for these two saws - If you are cutting 18" logs, I really don't think it matters if it is a 20" bar or a 28" bar. If you're tall, your back may feel the difference. Outside of a little extra bar friction created by the extra bar length, I wouldn't predict much difference between the two (if the bars are oil properly). I think changing one's drive sprocket will change chain speed. I don't see bar length changing chain speed that much unless you are in way more wood with the longer bar. So here is one of your future videos - two identical chains (same pitch, same gauge, same type of tooth (semi-chisel or full) sharpened exactly the same). The only difference is one is on a 20" bar, & the other is on a 27/28" bar. Cut an approximately 18" log with both. My hypothesis is that the difference in cutting time won't be that great. Take this a step further in another video using the same bars/chains - try cutting a 24"+ diameter log with both. Which would get the job faster now? It would one pass with a longer bar versus needing two cuts with the shorter bar. Those who bark that's too much bar for that saw - it really depends on how you are using it & what type of wood you are cutting in my opinion. Let's say someone is ripping through 18" logs using a 70cc saw with a 20" bar. It's not the short bar that's making the difference, it's the extra power of that 70cc chainsaw that's ripping through those logs!
I completely agree! I have always thought that maybe the extra length really wouldn't slow it down all the much in equal sized wood. Honestly, the 620 is so strong buried in 24 inches of oak, the larger bar does NOT worry me at all! I really do think that a properly sharp chain on these saws can adequately be pulled with the power that these 60cc can make.
I also prefer a longer bar most of the time simply because it allows me to position myself more safely around hazard conditions. I always want to be able to provide as much space as possible between a Snag and myself. Also, it allows a further reach while keeping the power head closer to the body. I sometimes watch guys in Europe cutting with 18 and 20in bars and am astonished at their technique and ability. I cannot help but wonder though if the tree would have been on the ground 2-3x faster if they were able to cut all the way through in one pass. Again, work positioning to me is critical. They literally have to work 360 degrees around a tree. I often want to do no such thing.
Now, I do have intentions to test different length bars on the same wood and I will do my best (budget allowing) to make the test interesting. We think alike!
Paid $592 for my echo cs 620pw with 27 inch bar and two chains. 93 drive link, it's actually a 28" bar. It's a rebranded oregon powercut bar. Muffler moded, it's a lovely saw for any job.
They are great! Thanks for commenting and letting us know about your saw! You have much time on it? Thanks for being here
@@oakiewoodsman yes sir, work the sht out of it here in Alaska. Excellent winter setting in 20 below cutting and good torque in frozen wood. The 5 year warranty has been sweet. 2 years later, the brake handle broke at the chain break toggle. Part sent north, no questions asked. 3 more years of warranty coverage left.
That is great to hear! I also heard their oiler assembly is more stout and cam handle the cold better. Have you heard of such a thing?
@@oakiewoodsman thanks for running a good underdog echo, and talking them up. No problems with oiler, but have had problems with oilers stripping out on a husq 55, jonsered 2172 and a stihl ms 660 mag in the winter. Yep, it's my main felling saw. I've dropped a bunch of 24-30" white spruce. My jonsered 2172 (rebadged husq 372 xtorq) is locked in the lewis winch. From 60 cc sawsn I tend to skip right over the 70 cc stuff and go right to a ported echo cs 8000.
@@michaelmanzo1716 that is what I had heard something about the worm gear on the Echo being metal instead of plastic like on Husky or Stihl. You know, it is my opinion that each and every product has strengths and weaknesses and to ignore weaknesses on a favorite brand and only focus on the strengths on your favorite brand is not being honest. The echo is a great value for a solid, reliable saw.
I feel like you get more with the echo. It comes with a full wrap handle, it has a bigger fuel capacity and oil capacity and the warranty is better. It’s a five year warranty to be exact and it’s quite a bit cheaper. I wish they’d get rid of the janky toggle switch though but outside of that I think I’m going to end up going with the echo over a new stihl or husqy
Thanks for sharing. I am happy to own both. I couldn't find enough value in the Stihl lineup. Thanks for being here!
Have you seen this? Long but I think valuable information
th-cam.com/video/YpFDQuK8lws/w-d-xo.html
What’s janky about a toggle switch that’s how all the old saw were
Nice comparison of the two saws, but a lot of bar for either one in my opinion. I can see your left arm jumping with the Echo, Husky does look smoother for sure. Others will say that you pay a lot extra for that smoothness. I still don't think the Husky auto tune is right on that saw, needs to field adjust the idle to make it start right.
Appreciate the comment. I am going to do the field reset eventually and hopefully it will help out with the warm start issue. I figured I would run the saw a bit and see if it would sort itself out but it would probably be better to just do the reset.
If he's cutting an 18" log, what difference does it make if it's a 20" bar vs 28" bar (outside of having to bend over more)? I agree that burying a 28' bar in hardwood all the time may be a bit much, but I don't see a shorter bar length doing anything for him with this particular log.
3 nice saws .
My opinion .... 545 w/ 20" - limbing
562 w/ 24" - fallen/softwood
620 w/ 27"/28" bunken/hardwood
Try w/ your 562 hot starts issues.
-Allow a cool down idle / briefly before shutting off.
-Then examine before starting if the fuel tanks is pressurized.
-Engage hi idle & prime, for cycling cooler fuel thru carb .
-Also: try
After 1st starting (cold) , allow saw to slow idle for 3 minutes /warm up .
( a reset, part of ) w/o working the trottle .
- after warm , high end reset (field) .
Agreed! If I was in the market to make a bar purchase, a light 24in bar would be phenomenal on the 562! It would be balanced so well and the saw in my opinion, easily would handle it. Thanks again for sharing. Appreciate you being here, watching and commenting. Thank you!
@@jeffreyrudolph5061 sounds a lot like what @afleetcommand recommends. He likes to use the purge to get cooler fuel into the carb. Now, I certainly can get better at letting the saw cool a bit after cutting. I do fairly well at making sure it is warm before running it wide open in the cut. But often, I just flip her off and I know that is a NO NO. You may see my other videos too but the saw is certainly starting just fine now. I really like AutoTune. I am very curious to see if it will operate as well as my 545. What I mean is, I never have to fast idle it to start it warm. I am kinda just seeing what the saw will do all on its own. Thanks for the comments!
Love my little 562xp i previously had a 620 it was built like a brick sh&thouse. Very reliable you can't go wrong with either
Thanks for watching! Great saws for sure. At first similar specs but completely different mannerisms.
Great saws and vid. Any suggestions for finding more firewood to cut?
I go looking to help people with fallen trees. I rarely even take any wood but sometimes that is where we get more from. th-cam.com/video/dWLBTKSE5Lo/w-d-xo.htmlsi=bwh3SI3tkJwJ-L8I
Echo has really stepped up their game with the 590, 620p, and 7310p. Those 3 saws outlast the Stihl MTronic saws and the Husqvarna Autotune saws. Been testing that theory for years and the Echo's are still going. The Stihls and Husqvarnas are piling up in the bone yard. Echo wins in longevity and torque. I'd rather have a lot of torque than speed. "If it runs fast, it won't last" and that saying has been true so far.
Thanks for sharing! Are you a repair shop?
@@oakiewoodsman Yes
Echo saws are set to run rich until broken in from the factory, and once broken it, lean in on the high-speed jet a little and you'll find a lot more power, you can hear it bogging down, it hasn't been adjusted
This saw did wake up once it was run through some tanks of fuel. Easily near the 10 tank mark like many say. This saw has since been ported, the H jet in the carb replaced with a non limited one and the muffler opened up.
This saw is a great saw and has been reliable. The Oiler failed for some reason and was replaced under warranty. The limiters were modified and the saw is completely tunable now. At the time of this video, the saw was turned up as much as possible from the dealer. It is as close as it could get to the specified RPM numbers via dealer Tach. After extensive use of this saw, I have also found that it takes more than just a minute of cutting to truly get it warmed up. I honestly find that the job is done by the time the saw is running at peak operation when bucking up small firewood. I just doesn't get to peak operating temps quickly. I also do not chase the tuning because if I clean up the top end when nearly warm, it is too lean once hot.
The 562XP proved to be a problem child and got repaired....... I thought. I was just running it yesterday and caught it doing some similarly weird stuff like it once had done before. Videos continue to come out! Thank you for watching!
Here is a video with the ported 620 in it.
th-cam.com/video/eWQ-xLsHEUM/w-d-xo.htmlsi=1aZ-X6-Dn4e8zYyc
620p is the best deal. One top handle and one 620p and u can do everything u need to do. Extra saws r better if u have more work than normal usage.
you are 100% correct! The 620p is the saw to get if you care for a bit more performance but really, even the 590 would get the job done for many. I find that the 620P is a worthwhile marginal expense however.
I feel bad for my echo 620, I haven’t touched it since I got my 562 all ported up. I’ve had the 562 2 weeks ago and have ran just over 5 gallons through it, that saw is nasty and so nice to run.
Who ported it? Is yours the Mark ii? I love my 562 so much and it truly is a pleasure to run in comparison but I am not sure it would hold up well being ported. My 620 has been ported. Thanks for watching, sharing and being here!
@@oakiewoodsman I ported it, it is not a Mark ii. It is an updated mark 1. So it has the better bearings and bearing housing.
Awesome! Did you do any of the heat shield work to help with hot start issues? Thanks for getting back to me
@@Powersawjunky
@@oakiewoodsman nope, haven’t had not one issue with it hot starting, and I have intentionally ran it real hard and shut it off for a restart several times. It’s really my favorite saw.
when hot, the saw restarts easily. If it sits for a couple minutes and heatsoakes, you have to pump purge and fast idle it. My 545 always works, my 562 has this issue. Knew it when I bought it! Thank you!@@Powersawjunky
Did you have any issues with the bar nuts getting loose on the echo? I had a cs590 a while back and if it were not for that it would have been a great saw but the bar/chain getting loose every 2-3 cuts was a deal breaker. I'm just wondering if I'd have better luck with the 620
I actually have never had that happen on any saw and I actually do not tighten them up all that much. One time, I thought it was occurring to me and and it was something else. The oil hole is very Small on the factory bar and I personally do not like that. The clone saw I had wasn't oiling well and the chain would always loose tension because of heat I believe. Keep in mind, if the chain is dull or not getting enough oil, it will stretch and seemingly get loose. My experience has been that when cutting with a sharp chain and getting plenty of oil, my chains stay put much longer. Thanks for the question and comment. What do you cut with now?
Thanks for the reply and the info. I have an old Stihl ms039 and a new ms391 that has spent more time in the shop than the woods. I know it's cliche but they really don't make them like they used to, which is why I'm thinking about giving the echo another shot.
@@JB-57 interesting and I appreciate the information! Always good to get feedback in the comment section because there is more knowledge information here than in the video most of the time. The 590 and 620 are pretty identical. I have the 27” bar on mine and have been posting a ton with it and have a BUNCH of footage coming. It is a great saw as long as you don’t tempt yourself by EVER running one of these new computerized rockets. Just don’t do it and stay content with the tried and true. Thanks for writing back. FYI, the 620 is best with a 24 on it. If you need a long bar , buy it with it and get yourself a lighter 24 or 20 and use those most often. I think you would be happy with that.
@@oakiewoodsman I think I'm gonna give the 620 a try hopefully the bar nuts issue was a fluke or possibly even my fault. The 5 year warranty is hard to beat. Thanks again and great job on the videos 👍
@JB-ku8ci much appreciated and good luck!
I've made my decision. For the power, speed of cut, warranty and price, theres no question. Echo for the win. I'm getting mine for $510 in a couple weeks at my dealers Echo day! $340 less than the HUSKY! If it wasn't for the price, I do love the 562xp. I could forfeit the warranty, do a muffler mod and remove the carb limiters for 5.67 horsepower. Stock this advertises @ 4.4 HP compared to the 4.7 HP of the 562xp. I bet the extra power would smooth out the Echo during the cut. I cant believe Stihl wants $940 for the 362C!
Awesome! I think you have made a very good decision, especially at that price! the Echo is a very good and strong saw. I have recently removed the little deflector on the exhaust, left the screen in and leaned mine out within the range of the limiters from the factory and it is running even better. I think it will prove to be a good, durable saw for you and hopefully my videos were a bit of help for you. Thanks for letting me know and hope to see ya around some more!
@@oakiewoodsman We do think alike! I was planning on removing the deflector first, but wondered if there was enough adjustment with the limiters in. I’m glad you told me! I am not excited to beacon the dead with the full mod either, but absolutely would if it performed the way I wanted.
You’re way I can keep my warranty. Just buy another deflector when I bring it in. 😎👍🏻
@@wheelstandr yep. I ran mine a good 10 tanks before touching it. Wanted to see what she was like.
@@oakiewoodsman I wouldn’t have even considered it, but when you said the Husky was smoother, I knew why. That little extra power and rpm is the difference. Until I started looking for a new saw, I had no idea people were doing porting, muffler mods and all that stuff. Never even heard of it. This wait for May 6th to get my saw is making me feel like a kid waiting for Christmas!
@@wheelstandr enjoy
Awesome Video!!
Glad you like it! Good to see ya around sir!
Is the 562 XP the first iteration or the Mark 2? I have the
XP Mark 2 in my shopping kart and I'm stumped on the bar length... This will be my first pro saw. I'm stumped on the 28 or the 24?
This is the last of the Mark I. Are you wanting it to stand up and buck? Have your considered the 620P? I think the 28 is a bit heavy for this light saw. Wry nose heavy. My 562 wears a 20” light bar most of the time. My ported 620 had the Husqvarna 28 on it.
For the money...hands down echo has it in every catergory...you can't deny it period point blank...husky has speed but if you dog in your done..echo has speed and the torque!
My 620 is even better now that it has been ported. It continued to improve significantly from the time of this video because it is true that they take some time to break in. Kept running better and better! Thanks for watching
Like extra comparisons
Hope you found this interesting and appreciate the comment!
Was the echo muffler modded here? Was the husky muffler modded as well?
Both are new and stock. Thanks!
Is there a reason to use a bar this long? Greetings
I would give it a shot! Where are you watching from? I love watching stuff done over in Europe because everything is done so differently!
@@oakiewoodsman Hey Buddy, II'm watching from Germany - and yes! You wouldn't see bars over 20" in normal logging use in forests. Sometimes you met someone with a 24" bar, but its not common. We use different cutting Technics, so we don't need to use this long bars. So on 50ccm you would use 13"-16", on 60ccm saws normaly you use 16-18" bars- everything above its 18" to 20" (24") bars.
I kinda like to mix both worlds. In fact, I hope to someday find a felling lever ( the long one) They are simply not used over here.
I agree it's a bit to much bar for either saw, unless you are running full skip chain, hard to go wrong with either, I have a jonsered 2260 which is essentially same saw with the small mount of older vintage, bought it nos. Off ebay it's a 2013 model, it has given me nothing but fits, when it gets hot, vapor lock, and if you run out of a tank of fuel it is nearly impossible to start if it's hot,I'm going to modify the cover, I think from a longevity standpoint ease of maintenence perspective I would take the 620, their is something about the nylon caged crank bearings that scares me, I have a 2166 x-torq that is acting up as well, pto side bearing, but the saw is 5years old with alot of use, anyway with how hot the autotunes run I'm quite leary of crank bearing failure,and just lean condition in general, good eval.!!!
Great comment. Can I ask you what fuel and mix you are running?
I run 40:1 amsoil Saber, and 40:1 husquavarna xp, and being in a rural village in Alaska regular old Castrol, I just don't run it in the autotune, my old Macs love it don't use bar oil either that stuff turns to molasses in anything -0 just straight old Castrol good up to -40 and 5w-30 I really think a simple muffler mod and a base gasket delete on the 620, really wake them up, I know from watching Charlie Briscos channel, that they have a ridiculous amount of squish right out of the box, not just the 620 but Echos in general, it's amazing what kinda gains he gets out of the 4910s and heck just about any saw, I have ran the 562 newer model and absolutely love it "smooth" good power, it seems like in its newest version that most of the bugs have been ironed out, however watching Jimssawsandsupply, Ithink I am going to add a few airvents to my cover and do a muffler mod to get rid of some of the heat, I understand they went to a different carb on the later versions I believe the earlier versions 560 ,562,2260,2258 had an el-46 that sometimes proved to be problematic in some but not all,they went to an el-48 and some different tuning? and solved most of the issues, I'll say one thing the balance and ergos and flickability of these saws is night and day over my 2166,2165,2172, if I can just get mine to run cooler and more consistent I'm gonna be a very happy camper, as is I don't have the capability to reprogram the autotune,the nearest husky dealership is 400 miles away and it's an airplane only proposition!
@@richfreireich4528 wow! I have read that the echo oil pumps hold up better in the extreme cold. Have you noticed that yourself? Echo is very conservative in how they built their saws. A lot is left on the table for those that want to take them further! Appreciate the comment!
Typically this is Stihl country and Husky, I haven't really had any experience with the Echos, but I like what I'm seeing out of them, I don't own any Huskys, I own their red and black cousins (johnnies) nobody uses bar oil here, just cheap 5w-30, Castrol cause it will pour in -50 its not uncommon in winter to cut in -30f whether that be a trap line trail on your snowmobile or wood for your cabin, my rebuilt promac 700 started and ran in -38 I just add a little more oil in my mix and fatten her up once she warms up the oil in the bar generally warms up,if not I just dump some on the bar as I'm cutting,that's the thing I like about the old Macs and Homelites you have that manual oiler to aid the automatic, now granted you aren't sucking the oil right out of your bar oiltank like mine was lol till I motosealed the case bolts lol! But yeah generally speaking most folks run 271s,361s,036s,026,029s,025s, as for huskies, 460s,455s,445s to name the most common with a few of the oldtimers with old Homelite superxl, as far as I know I'm the only one that uses the old Macs I just got bitten by the vintage saw bug, and in general anything chainsaw bug now I'm addicted to ebay! my next saw is gonna be the Shindy 600sx, to keep with my red and black theme in my stable, heck I just got my first poulan 4000 countervibe I'm yet to play with it, yeah bar oil is 20.00 a quart gas is 9.00 a gallon back here in rural Ak and it only gets barged down the Yukon in the fall, so gas is somewhat suspect in quality but it is what it is!!!!
Quite the commitment! It is a very different world up there. What I had heard about was the worm gear was stouter on the echo and held up better in the winter months. Thanks for all the information. Very good to hear about the way other people do things and your collection sounds awesome!
The 562xp would scream with a 20 inch bar and chain.
Sounds like a video idea!
If you are cutting an 18" log with a 20" bar vs a 28" bar, I highly doubt the speed would be that much different. Outside of a little extra friction from the extra bar length, what else is changing the speed? Let's say you mark a single tooth on a chain. Just because the tooth may come around faster on a 20" bar doesn't mean it's traveling a lot faster than a marked tooth on a 28" bar.
@@driftlesshunter9200 I think this needs to be explored!
@@driftlesshunter9200 and a longer chain with more teeth should stay "sharper", longer I believe. At the end of the day my lower back over rules everything and says long light bar FTW.
That's not at all how that works.
👍🆙OW
Thanks for watching. A bit shorter one!
562 is garbage
Can you please explain your preference? Thanks for watching!
@@oakiewoodsman i i had 572 and 562 and I had a lot of trouble with the 562 she was not very old and not use the beare went on the clutch side so i put it the shop to fix it and she real hard on gas so the shop called me that it fixed he put 2 bears and crank seats and gaskets on it both of the saws was done the same way and the problems were the same thing i used all the husky mixture for the gas i had husky saws all my life i worked in the woods for 40 years and the older saws were no trouble the 372 and 365 and the 359 had no trouble at all but the new 572 and the 562 was all trouble and alot of other people having the same problem and my son got mark 2 and the same problem with it the fix costed 375 dollars to fix it iwll not buy more of that kind. What outher kind of saw do you think will fit my type of work .
Many people are unhappy with Stihl and Husqvarna in terms of longevity now. That is why so many people run the ECHO 620. Many get them ported and they are mean, well built saw that is simple with no computers. They are heavier but seemingly sturdier than the other new saws. Other than that, buy old ones and run em or start building clones with the right OEM parts and enjoy the saws of yesteryear! I am no expert but I sure appreciate you being here!
I've got the little.brother 590 echo with a 24 inch bar ans I've cut more trees and firewood with saw then most pros...and I'm talking big pines..18 to 40inches...and large oak maple cherry and beach..from falling to bucking firewood its my favorite saw ...it's reliable..and tons of power and torque and smooth for a 60cc saw!
@@oakiewoodsman Stihl was broken back then, much better saws now. Husqvarna is quite the opposite. I used to love them, now I can't stand them. in 50cc class, there is no discussion, ms261c destroys Husqvarna and Echo easily. 6occ, well, I went with Stihl here too. Robust saw, lot of power, chain speed and rpm, just doing it's job. 560 Husqvarna is a piece of crap, doing nothing at all, 562, some say it is great, some are unhappy... What I see is, you have to let these little saws do their job on their own, small Husqvarna can not handle pressure. STihl will just be faster and faster. Husqvarna just the opposite. Don't know the Echo here, but if the Husqvarna is faster, then the Stihl 362 will destroy it.