I have a DCC-EX setup with an Android tablet and EngineDriver. It runs beautifully, operates 20+ servo point motors, 20+ Dapol semaphore signals and has automation using over 30 hall effect sensors. No PC or JMRI in sight. Superb results for last 18 months. I set out to avoid commercial kit, avoid a PC and avoid JMRI. All achieved.
I understand you don't want to be tethered to a PC but I found it an easy and cheap way to get started. I used an ancient PC loaded with Linux and JMRI. In effect it's doing the same job as a Rpi or Arduino. I also use my home network via the PC so no need for WiFi shields. The phone(s) are already connected to the home WiFi. The PC controls everything from locos to points, signals, routes etc etc and still have the phone to control a loco as you move about the room. Part of the beauty of JMRI is the ability to adapt to your own unique requirements.
Thanks Gerry. Since making the video I've been trying out different ways of using the DCC-EX Controller and I am probably going to end up using an old computer. As you say it is an easy and cheap way to get started. I can access the DCC-EX Controller from my phones (the controller is on my network Wifi as well as the phones) but also want to have a roster for simpler selection of locos which means I will most likely be using JMRI.
Yes, DCC++-EX is amazing. My advice, since you're already saving money going down this route, don't cheap out with knockoff brands, stick to genuine Arduino wifi and motor shields. Definitely like the use of male/female quick connects for the power - I'm going to switch mine over. Great vid!
The wifi board you are using is, probably, a clone of the 'WangTonge' one suggested in the DCCEX instructions. Apparently the clones have two incorrect value components that makes them more difficult to set up. When you place the board onto the motor shield the TX and RX pins of the WangTonge clone must be bent out of the way so that they don't contact the motor board. The TX/RX connection is then made using DuPont type cables. The details of the full 'work-around' is hidden in the DCCEX website - unsupported wifi shields!. I have used a few of these boards to make up controllers and they seem to work well when set up this way!
Great video. I have switched all my DCC controllers [NCE & Digitrax] over to DCC-EX. I use OSX, Windows and Linux. The script will not run on my M2 Pro Mini even with the sudo command. I just load it up on using the arduino IDE and edit the config file. You may notice that when you turn your turnouts using DCC they are inverted. Uncomment "define DCC_TURNOUTS_RCN_213". I no longer use a raspberry pi 4 for JMRI as I found it too slow to render drawings in Panel Pro. I ended up using an old 2010 Mac Mini.
with a mac there is an alternative, you can grab the DCC-EX++ software as a file that can be opened from the arduino IDE, and upload it from there - also useful if you want to or need to change the configuration there is also a further tip I have found for my layout - its well worth getting a screw terminal breakout shield for the arduino board. its not _needed_ but once the thing is fitted to a layout its way easier to add connections to the end of the Mega arduino for say acting as inputs or outputs, things like adding a LCD or OLED screen without wondering why the thing doesn't work because a wire has come adrift.. again..
Thanks Dale. I've used the Mac to download the DCC-Ex software to the Arduino and as you note it makes updating the configuration files simpler. At the moment I am editing the myAutomation.h file to create my roster. Is there a terminal breakout shield that you would recommend?
@@AndrewH561 I just found one on eBay to be honest, the one I have has prototype board in the middle plus a solder tinned hole for each pin around its edge, then screw terminal blocks all round the outside of that. makes the board slight wider and longer which may be an issue. the prototype area I'm not using but could maybe hold a few extra terminals for 5v and ground outputs depending on what you need - I just wanted the screw terminals to avoid having wires dropping out or having to make some sort of plug for the double row connector at the end. it does make adding wires to the serial ports easy as they can be screwed in as well. hoping to experiment with automation more here once I have the block detection stuff added
Hi Stephen. Yes I am using the Hornby Decoder in my Class 91. At the moment there isn't a sound file available for the Class 91 (scheduled to be released towards the end of the year) but it is straight forward to update the sound files so I will leave it in the loco for now.
Hi Matt. I bought it from Makerfabs direct - www.makerfabs.com/esp8266-wifi-shield.html . I had to wait for it as the shipping was via airmail ($6), DHL would have been around $35 :-( the DCC-Ex website has suggestions for other WiFi options (e.g. Duinopeak ESP8266 WiFi Expansion Board + ESP-01) but I have still to try these.
Matt just a follow up. The DCC-Ex website has some information on the board dcc-ex.com/reference/hardware/wifi-boards/wangtongze-board.html assuming it is the WanfTongze clone.
@Wotton Tor thanks. I did try the wangtonze workarounds and non of them worked, it would come on and the lights flashing but it wouldn't create a WiFi network so I gave up on it. So I'm currently trying waiting on delivery of some esp01s and level shifter boards to try. If these don't work I'll bite the bullet and use your link to the makerfabs board, but didn't want to be waiting forever for the airmail as you said
Hi Matt. I'll be interested to hear how the ESP-01s etc. work. I've just done an experiment and managed to get the WangTongze clone working.. I have one of the boards with the misspelt 'moer' and 'Arbuino'. Basically by bending the pins (shown on the DCC-Ex website) slightly out so they don't connect to the motor shield and then adding the jumpers I seem to have got the board working (at least I can connect via my wifi to it and the Arduino IDE doesn't thro up any error messages). By the way I see that the Makerfabs shield might be back in stock around the 17th of next month at uk.robotshop.com/products/esp8266-wifi-shield
@Wotton Tor interesting, that's how I wired mine with those 2 bent pins. Which jumpers on the board did you use? Also, when setting the network settings in the dcc ex software to program it, did you leave all the network details blank or did you enter details? I thought my wangtonze was working as all the lights were on, but i just couldn't see the network.
Hi Stephen. If you tried to upload the DCC-EX software to the MEGA after you connected the wi-fi shield, the reason it failed is probably because of the shared serial connection with USB. Disconnecting the wi-fi shield should have resulted in a successful upload. I suggest you retry the original shield now that the software is on the MEGA. I've been using DCC_EX for about a year with 100% success, but instead of wi-fi, I use HC-12 tranceivers to connect to my self-designed wireless cab and to my Atari computer. No PC or other equipment required. Remote wireless NANOs around the layout control all the accessories. If you aren't familiar with Little Wicket Railway it would be worth a look, as Rob has done much the same thing as you. Chris
Hi Chris, Thanks for the message and suggestion. I've tried the original shield and, as you said it would, it works now that the software is on the Mega. I've also had a look at Rob's videos (he covered things much better than I did). I've seen some of Rob's other videos and should have checked before putting mine up. Your setup sounds interesting. I'm still experimenting with mine. At the moment I am leaning towards connecting the Mega to a old MacBook and running JMRI on the MacBook which then can be accessed over my home Wifi. I know I could just use the Mega on its own but I've noticed that it sometimes only allows 1 Cab app (e.g. on a phone) to connect (I wonder if that is also connected to the shared serial connection).
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I have a DCC-EX setup with an Android tablet and EngineDriver. It runs beautifully, operates 20+ servo point motors, 20+ Dapol semaphore signals and has automation using over 30 hall effect sensors. No PC or JMRI in sight. Superb results for last 18 months. I set out to avoid commercial kit, avoid a PC and avoid JMRI. All achieved.
Excellent video. Thanks for sharing the issues you ran into.
Thanks.
I understand you don't want to be tethered to a PC but I found it an easy and cheap way to get started. I used an ancient PC loaded with Linux and JMRI. In effect it's doing the same job as a Rpi or Arduino. I also use my home network via the PC so no need for WiFi shields. The phone(s) are already connected to the home WiFi. The PC controls everything from locos to points, signals, routes etc etc and still have the phone to control a loco as you move about the room. Part of the beauty of JMRI is the ability to adapt to your own unique requirements.
Thanks Gerry. Since making the video I've been trying out different ways of using the DCC-EX Controller and I am probably going to end up using an old computer. As you say it is an easy and cheap way to get started. I can access the DCC-EX Controller from my phones (the controller is on my network Wifi as well as the phones) but also want to have a roster for simpler selection of locos which means I will most likely be using JMRI.
Yes, DCC++-EX is amazing. My advice, since you're already saving money going down this route, don't cheap out with knockoff brands, stick to genuine Arduino wifi and motor shields. Definitely like the use of male/female quick connects for the power - I'm going to switch mine over. Great vid!
Thanks for the advice and encouragement.
@@AndrewH561 not a problem. Us Woottons have to stick together!
The wifi board you are using is, probably, a clone of the 'WangTonge' one suggested in the DCCEX instructions. Apparently the clones have two incorrect value components that makes them more difficult to set up. When you place the board onto the motor shield the TX and RX pins of the WangTonge clone must be bent out of the way so that they don't contact the motor board.
The TX/RX connection is then made using DuPont type cables. The details of the full 'work-around' is hidden in the DCCEX website - unsupported wifi shields!. I have used a few of these boards to make up controllers and they seem to work well when set up this way!
Thanks for the information.
Great video. I have switched all my DCC controllers [NCE & Digitrax] over to DCC-EX. I use OSX, Windows and Linux. The script will not run on my M2 Pro Mini even with the sudo command. I just load it up on using the arduino IDE and edit the config file. You may notice that when you turn your turnouts using DCC they are inverted. Uncomment "define DCC_TURNOUTS_RCN_213". I no longer use a raspberry pi 4 for JMRI as I found it too slow to render drawings in Panel Pro. I ended up using an old 2010 Mac Mini.
Thanks for the information. I may well move to using an old Mac as I also find the Raspberry Pi rather slow.
Hi Stephen. Yet another interesting video. We are now up to 720p resolution, so an improvement there.
Thanks Paul.
with a mac there is an alternative, you can grab the DCC-EX++ software as a file that can be opened from the arduino IDE, and upload it from there - also useful if you want to or need to change the configuration
there is also a further tip I have found for my layout - its well worth getting a screw terminal breakout shield for the arduino board. its not _needed_ but once the thing is fitted to a layout its way easier to add connections to the end of the Mega arduino for say acting as inputs or outputs, things like adding a LCD or OLED screen without wondering why the thing doesn't work because a wire has come adrift.. again..
Thanks Dale. I've used the Mac to download the DCC-Ex software to the Arduino and as you note it makes updating the configuration files simpler. At the moment I am editing the myAutomation.h file to create my roster.
Is there a terminal breakout shield that you would recommend?
@@AndrewH561 I just found one on eBay to be honest, the one I have has prototype board in the middle plus a solder tinned hole for each pin around its edge, then screw terminal blocks all round the outside of that. makes the board slight wider and longer which may be an issue. the prototype area I'm not using but could maybe hold a few extra terminals for 5v and ground outputs depending on what you need - I just wanted the screw terminals to avoid having wires dropping out or having to make some sort of plug for the double row connector at the end.
it does make adding wires to the serial ports easy as they can be screwed in as well.
hoping to experiment with automation more here once I have the block detection stuff added
Thanks
Excellent video, very clear and concise. I noticed you had one of the new Hornby TXS decoders is that what was running in your class 91?
Hi Stephen. Yes I am using the Hornby Decoder in my Class 91. At the moment there isn't a sound file available for the Class 91 (scheduled to be released towards the end of the year) but it is straight forward to update the sound files so I will leave it in the loco for now.
Where did you get the makerfabs wifo shield i cant find it in the uk. I'm having the same problem with that first wifi shield you used
Hi Matt. I bought it from Makerfabs direct - www.makerfabs.com/esp8266-wifi-shield.html . I had to wait for it as the shipping was via airmail ($6), DHL would have been around $35 :-( the DCC-Ex website has suggestions for other WiFi options (e.g. Duinopeak ESP8266 WiFi Expansion Board + ESP-01) but I have still to try these.
Matt just a follow up. The DCC-Ex website has some information on the board dcc-ex.com/reference/hardware/wifi-boards/wangtongze-board.html assuming it is the WanfTongze clone.
@Wotton Tor thanks. I did try the wangtonze workarounds and non of them worked, it would come on and the lights flashing but it wouldn't create a WiFi network so I gave up on it. So I'm currently trying waiting on delivery of some esp01s and level shifter boards to try. If these don't work I'll bite the bullet and use your link to the makerfabs board, but didn't want to be waiting forever for the airmail as you said
Hi Matt. I'll be interested to hear how the ESP-01s etc. work. I've just done an experiment and managed to get the WangTongze clone working.. I have one of the boards with the misspelt 'moer' and 'Arbuino'. Basically by bending the pins (shown on the DCC-Ex website) slightly out so they don't connect to the motor shield and then adding the jumpers I seem to have got the board working (at least I can connect via my wifi to it and the Arduino IDE doesn't thro up any error messages). By the way I see that the Makerfabs shield might be back in stock around the 17th of next month at uk.robotshop.com/products/esp8266-wifi-shield
@Wotton Tor interesting, that's how I wired mine with those 2 bent pins. Which jumpers on the board did you use? Also, when setting the network settings in the dcc ex software to program it, did you leave all the network details blank or did you enter details? I thought my wangtonze was working as all the lights were on, but i just couldn't see the network.
Hi Stephen.
If you tried to upload the DCC-EX software to the MEGA after you connected the wi-fi shield, the reason it failed is probably because of the shared serial connection with USB. Disconnecting the wi-fi shield should have resulted in a successful upload. I suggest you retry the original shield now that the software is on the MEGA.
I've been using DCC_EX for about a year with 100% success, but instead of wi-fi, I use HC-12 tranceivers to connect to my self-designed wireless cab and to my Atari computer. No PC or other equipment required. Remote wireless NANOs around the layout control all the accessories.
If you aren't familiar with Little Wicket Railway it would be worth a look, as Rob has done much the same thing as you.
Chris
Hi Chris,
Thanks for the message and suggestion. I've tried the original shield and, as you said it would, it works now that the software is on the Mega.
I've also had a look at Rob's videos (he covered things much better than I did). I've seen some of Rob's other videos and should have checked before putting mine up.
Your setup sounds interesting. I'm still experimenting with mine. At the moment I am leaning towards connecting the Mega to a old MacBook and running JMRI on the MacBook which then can be accessed over my home Wifi. I know I could just use the Mega on its own but I've noticed that it sometimes only allows 1 Cab app (e.g. on a phone) to connect (I wonder if that is also connected to the shared serial connection).
Thanks Chris. I'll do that.