Mowing With the John Deere 210
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 มิ.ย. 2014
- This has probably been one of my most anticipated videos. I bought my old John Deere 210 in late summer 2012 and was having issues with the wiring harness and the seat safety switch, so the 39 mower deck on it would not run. The deck was in rough shape, so I painted it up and sold it. I had no plans to use the 210 for mowing, but I decided it would be a good backup mower in case my main mower broke down, so I set out to look for another mower deck for it. However, since I have a lot of grass to mow, I wanted a larger 46" deck.
November of last year, I came across a used but good-condition model 47 (46") deck which came off a 212. It had a new belt, rebuilt spindles, and all the mounting hardware, for $200. So I grabbed it, had it sandblasted, then waited a while until it warmed up outside. I sanded it down and smoothed it out, welded a couple cracks in the front, and then coated it with automobile primer and what seemed like a hundred coats of Rustoleum JD yellow paint. Also painted the pulleys, springs, the shield, and the discharge chute. Clear coated it and then waxed it, and replaced all the rusty bolts with new ones. Swapped the beat-up gauge wheels with the ones from the 111 deck. Installed a new blade-to-blade belt and a new PTO belt and had some trouble at first, but finally got the tension adjusted properly and had the belts working good. Sharpened the blades and mounted them up, and it was ready to mow the lawn as you see in this video. Enjoy! - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
I'm glad to see people saving older machinery. We have become too much of a throw away society.
This is a rugged old machine and one can justify investing time and money in it.
One thing that sold me on John Deere was the parts man. When I was shopping older used machines he reassured me, "I don't care how old it is, I can get you parts".
Totally agree with you Mike. The garden tractor collecting hobby has become huge and we are doing all we can to make sure these old machines last as long as possible. I own a 2016 Deere X570 now and it's a nice machine but still no comparison to the 30 and 40 year old machines I've owned in the past. And one of the reasons I am a Deere guy is because of the parts network like you mentioned.
I would very much like to purchase a 210 but the local John Deere shop tells me parts are getting hard to find.
What's a guy to do if he isn't married into a family that owns a machine shop?
Sounds like the shop doesn't know much about the 200 series as parts are still readily available. Always check eBay and craigslist and I would also recommend joining the Weekend Freedom Machines forum as there is a large network of parts and equipment for sale on that site.
The dealer can only comment regarding new parts. They wont sell or install used parts.
Well, I took the plunge. A dealer put up three of the 200 series in a lot on ebay. There had been 23 bids by 9 different bidders in 10 days, so I was sure I would be outbid since the others seemed serious. The last two minutes of the auction I posted a bid of $600 and evidently the others were distracted or they had maxed out. Anyway I got a 210 with a mower, a 212 with mower, and a 214 with no mower for $590! Now I have to drive 9 hours with a trailer to pick them up!
It was just a whim because I was undecided as to whether I even wanted them. But I took what you said to heart and put in a bid.
They are all AS IS, none of them run but I'm hoping it is due to dead batteries or gummed up carbs. They did not list why they wouldn't run as they had not been run through the shop.
Hopefully I can get at least two operational and keep the third for parts.
Really nice looking 210! You did a great job painting the mower deck on it. Thanks for Sharing!!!
Thanks for the comment!
Sweet! Glad to see him in full on action. Cut nicely! Many more hours to come on that machine!
Yeah man! Has probably over 1,000 hours on it. Motor uses a lot of oil and I'll probably end up rebuilding it or finding a replacement K series or Magnum to put in it.
The hard work sure does pay off. Now you have a tough as hell machine ready for any job you throw at it! The deck looks superb and I love the tractor badge.
Yeah man this thing loves tall grass. Thanks for the comment.
Man I love that 210. You're so lucky. I found one for 200 bucks and my grandpa said we get it but we never did.
Kinda sad that the 111 had to be scrapped. I probably would have restored it because I love John deere, but at leas you made money. What was actually wrong with the 111's motor?
Nice to see it mow.
Nothing runs like a old Deere!
nice job on that and looks like it dose a great job and nice house
Thanks! I've been mowing with the 210 a lot this season, it still does a great job. Even better now with the 16 HP Kohler engine I put in it.
Nice looking 210 dude
Thanks.
i've never seen a john deere cut grass that fast! haha
Really? I see John Deere mowing every day faster and better than most
Nice, the deck looks great. Wish mine on the 345 looked that good. Every one but me has seemed to drive the deck into the a tree or pole and bend the crap out of it and breaking the lift brackets.
I'm a responsible operator and it's still tough to not bend up your deck. Especially since this one is a gear drive with a crappy clutch-brake system. I destroyed the nice discharge chute so that ended quickly.
Our 210 didn't have the PTO switch. You had to flip it into gear with a gear shift. Mowed with it until '04 when it wore out. Was a great mosquito chaser since it burned so much oil!
I had a 140 like that. Smoked like a mosquito fogger and would run itself out of oil in about 2 hours.
great job like your vids
Thank you!
hey micheal im a big fan of u and i currently own a 111 had to put in a lot of part into it to get it running but it drive and mow great im 18
Nice man. Enjoy your 111. Always great to hear from the younger fans.
I just got a John Deere L118 with less than 40 hours on it for cheap. excited to use it even though it's getting towards the end of the mowing season. I might get one mow out of it
Nice deal if it's got low hours. As long as you don't work it too hard it should make a nice machine.
I've got a couple of pretty steep hills but my yard is mostly flat
Just don't work it too hard on the hills. The transmissions wear out after being used on hills for so long.
big job
+hatice ya Not really. But I don't use the 210 to do much mowing anymore.
Hey man at least you got brakes on that thing my 111 has none
At that time I had no brakes. I've replaced the brake assembly since this video. Sounds like you have a problem if your 111 has no brakes lol...
Now, almost 2 years later, you also have a good power flow bagger!
+Lucien Dube And I never thought I'd be able to find one for a 46" deck.
+MichaelTJD60 you can barely find the 46" deck alone for the 200 series. You can find a lot of 46" decks for the 300 series. The 38" decks are much more common.
I had one of the three-blade 38" decks on this tractor when I got it and I sold it. Good size deck for the 10 HP motor but it couldn't fit a Powerflow bagger and if I was going to be mowing with it I wanted a bigger deck. I bought the 46" on eBay for $200 and restored it.
+MichaelTJD60 yeah I remember you were planning to keep that deck for a backup mower and to fit into places the la150 couldn't
+MichaelTJD60 And then you bought the k301 which was a pain in the ass
Check those hubs on the rear wheels. The tractor will drive just fine, you will not feel anything is wrong.
Raise the rear and try to wiggle the tire and wheel. If there is slop, the surface of the hub is worn. If you continue using it too long it may damage the spline of the axle. AXLES ARE NOW LISTED AS OBSOLETE BY THE JD DEALERS.
So, used is our only option unless you pay a small fortune to a machine shop to make new.
I was lucky. I found two good, tight hubs on ebay for $97. New ones at JD cost $250!
The new one did not go on. I used a triangle shaped file to clean up the outer one inch of spline. That did it, the new (used) hub slid on and was tight. So check those before you ruin the spline.
The transaxle in this tractor was rebuilt 5 years ago and I had everything checked for wear. Axles were worn due to bearings locking up, so they were welded and ground, but the splines and the hubs all looked good (which is surprising considering how many of these usually have worn hubs). I had a square fender 110 a couple years ago that had very worn-out hubs on it...the hubs on the 210 felt like new compared to the 110.
I have my own John deer
I noticed the 111 hood because he has a parted out 111 in his garage in case ya didnt know
Nice Video the 210 Cuts really Nice! I saw a bit of smoke there! actually its a bit worse than my Cub but in good news it was the head gasket causing the issues I ran it and it leaked oil everywhere and I got a new head gasket but have yet to put it on id really suggest to get yourself one go to NAPA and ask for a Head gasket for a Kohler K series 241 and they will bring it right out $7 its worth a try at least
Thanks for the video! I have a 210 that I am rehabbing. I am stumped on how the lift linkage works and if I have the correct lift straps. Could you add or send me a pic of the lift linkage on your 210 when you have a moment? Would be much appreciated
Basically there are two lift shafts under the tractor. They are connected with two thin metal links that pivot the two shafts back and forth together. My tractor is an oily mess right now because of a broken hydraulic line, so it wouldn't be easy to get a good picture of everything. I would skip to about 1:17 in this video for a view of the linkage underneath: th-cam.com/video/V1JSLltEkY8/w-d-xo.html
Coarse skateboard tape is great on footrests. Lasts for years, inexpensive, easy to apply/
That's pretty much exactly what Deere used on these tractors when they were new. I replaced it with diamond-plate steel because I liked the way it looked.
Excellent video. I have a 210 and the speed accelerates on its own occasionally. Would you happen to know what causes this?
oleskool Are you referring to engine RPM or travel speed? If it's the engine then it could be the governor is out of adjustment and slipping up to a high RPM. If it's travel speed, which is more likely the issue, then your variator is probably out of adjustment, belts stretched, or just need to spray some graphite lube on the variator pulleys to get them to slide much easier.
I'm curious about the muffler on this tractor. I see a large chrome pipe sticking out.
It's actually just the stock muffler with a piece of 2" pipe welded to the cap and a "funnel" shape welded around it to help seal it off. I wanted to try and keep the exhaust fumes from burning the paint off the side panel and hood support like you see on a lot of 200 series...their exhaust outlet wasn't the best design.
FYI if you adjust the mower according to the book, while parked on a flat driveway or garage floor your gauge wheels should not touch the ground they should hover like 1/4" above the ground. it makes the wheels last longer and i guess it makes for a smoother cut
I did. They are above the ground about 1/4" like they should be. I have them set 4 holes from the top, cause that's where I see everyone else's wheels at.
i have no idea where mine are set. you just set the depth stop on the floor of your tractor till your mower is cutting at the height you want then ajust guage wheels accordingly
1944johndeerel Somehow my lift height adjuster fell out. I don't feel like putting it back on just yet. I'm not lazy but I haven't quite gotten the hang of mounting and removing the mower deck yet so I don't want to have to remove it just to put the lift stop in.
they are real easy to hang the mower from
I can see this is an old post but I'll give it a shot. I got one of these with a home I just bought. The clutch pedal on the left is locked down and I can't figure out how to unlock it so as to change the gears. Is there some kind of start sequence? Your help would be greatly appreciated.
Sounds like the parking brake is locked. You should see a black knob at the bottom right corner of the dash column below the key switch. Push the clutch pedal in and lift the knob up and to the right.
RIP John Deere 111
Looks like it getting a little beat up
Hahaha, you putting us on a Tripod? I have never been or sitting on a Tripod, LMAO... Great Job tho, Finally it's done :)))
Yup these were the days before I had a GoPro lol. Now that I have one I don't need to use the tripod anymore.
Love your videos! I have a question since you have a 210, I drove over some bad ruts from a garbage truck, it popped off my deck belt but I was able to still drive it to the garage. After I put back on the belt it won’t do anything when I turn the key. The battery is good, any ideas? You seem to know a lot about them. Thanks!!
Is the PTO turned off and is the shifter in neutral? Those two safety switches will prevent it from starting. Check those first.
Pto is off and is in neutral still nothing. It’s crazy!
@@danfletcher7376 The neutral safety switch under the shifter is pretty sensitive on these. Sometimes you can hear it "click" when the shift guide touches it. Make sure that switch is depressed.
What’s the difference between the 1970 version of the 200 series vs the 1980 version with the bee strip decal
There are 4 generations...'75-'76 had the solid yellow stripe and screened side panels, separate clutch and brake pedals, manual PTO, and one-piece engine cradle with narrow base engine block. '77-78 were the same tractor but with louvered side panels, bar-style grill instead of a screen, two-piece engine cradle, and wide engine base. '79-'81 added the black tiger stripe decal, clutchbrake pedal on the left. '82-87 added electric PTO.
I just bought a clean 210 with blade, 38" deck and tiller for $550. It is not running, they say it needs a wire harness.
Does it have electric or manual PTO? I have a wiring harness for an electric PTO tractor for sale. Needs a couple new connectors crimped or soldered on, but otherwise it's all there.
@@MichaelTJD60 manual pto serial tag says c210h 100836M engine is k241AQS I think that means it is a 1979.
I'm waiting to figure out a new muffler out before I put the hood on
Straight pipe!
I take it the 210 can handle the 47 inch deck. But of course 10 hp from that era really WAS a 10 hp and who knows about the torque. The 14 hp in my John Deere STX 46 seems to have way more power than my newer MTD with 18.5 hp Briggs single cylinder. The JD STX 46 has a Kohler and it can run through six inch high grass turning three blades at 46 inches faster than the MTD with two blades at 42 inch. So HP numbers have really taken a beating. Although, the two cylinder Briggs 16 hp in my friends LT 166 has gobs of power, way more than the Briggs 18 hp. I have to confess, I really like that 16 hp twin Briggs. It has a very quiet exhaust and it's smooth. But it is in no way rugged enough to pull a plow like the 210 and 212 I now have.
Got to say you have yours looking like new, impressive. When I was pushing mine around the yard I was amazed how easy to steer but of course you had to make a lot of turns on the wheel.
Can't wait to get mine running.
Yeah horsepower was rated a lot differently back then compared to now. My old 316 with an 18 HP Onan opposed horizontal twin would mow through 6" grass without even bogging down, but my X570 with a 24 HP v-twin sometimes struggles in the same grass. Vertical and horizontal shaft engines seem to put out different kinds of horsepower. I'm sure you'll fall in love once you get the tractors started for the first time. That's how the green fever starts!
I thought the lt166 came with a Kawasaki motor
Micheal, would you by chance have the belts written down somewhere for this mower? I am trying to get on going that is missing the power takeoff to mower deck belt.. it would be nice to know the sies to all of them.. Thanks for any help.
Which mower deck do you have? The belts are different sizes depending on the mower deck.
I have the smaller deck....I think I ended up getting a 78 inch belt to work on there... there really isn't as good of tension setup compared to newer decks.. I might have been able to squeeze on 1 size smaller?... I am mowing my Moms place and it is half hill climb, the hills have wrecked multiple cheap hydrostat mowers... but this old gearbox JD will climb like a goat. So I do the flat parts with a tired hydro, and the hills with the JD... Its steep enough in places I mow with chains on ;)
For future reference you should always use JD brand belts. They are made of a thicker and higher quality material and are designed to fit tighter in the groove of the JD v-pulleys. Most aftermarket belts do not work on Deere equipment. Is your deck a 2-blade or 3-blade model? They use different belts depending.
Boy is that the truth.
I thought my friend had major problems with his JD, it kept eating mower belts. I was buying them at an auto parts store. Finally I told him to take to an genuine JD dealer. It was there three days and working perfect. Turns out there was a pulley slightly worn helping to eat the NON- JD belts in short order.
I just purchased an old 212. Have not mowed with it yet. The previous owner says it keeps chewing up the drive belt (PTO belt). The pulleys seem not to be cock-eyed. What ya think is the cause.
Chelsie McCance Are you using JD brand belts? The aftermarket Stens and other brand belts do not work on Deeres because they don't fit tightly in the pulleys on the mower deck. Only a Deere brand belt will fit, and they last a lot longer anyway. The belt comes off the PTO and wraps around the right sides of both of the hanger pulleys that are up against the frame. There should not be a twist in the belt because it will run backwards. You say the pulleys are not bent? Check to make sure the edges are not bent either.
If facing the front of the mower ... the right side hanger pulley has slight bend to it. The bottom side is kicked to the left 10-15 degrees. I figure I'll probably have to bend it back to straight vertical (90degs)
Those pulleys are supposed to be angled like that. They are angled so they direct the belt towards the deck drive pulley which is closer to the center of the deck. If those pulleys were straight the belt would not reach the deck.
If the deck drive belt is waring out often then maybe the spindle bearings are in need of replacing.when they freeze up they put a lot of stress and wear on all the deck belts.Also check all the other pulleys on the deck.
You should only engage the electric PTO at half to 3/4 throttle.....you could throw a belt, and it's hard on the engine.
With the way the mule drive/tensioner is set up on these tractors, the primary (PTO) belt goes through a lot of twisting and turning which can wear it out very quickly if you're not careful, so I usually engage the PTO at lower throttle to reduce wear on the belt.
Will try that thanks. Grease gun is Coming soon. Should that fix it?
It should make the steering a little bit easier, but if the steering gears or the wheel bearings have significant wear, it won't really help. Considering how old these machines are now, they will most likely have some worn steering components.
does a 210 have the same mounting pattern as a 316
No the mower decks have totally different mounting points.
Can I use a replacement gas cap that goes on a John Deere 314-318 on a 200 series tractor
No, you need one specifically for a 200 series (AM143251). The early and late 300 series each had their own specific gas cap, neither one will work on a 200 series.
What tractor do you perfer John Deere 210 or 212
They're the exact same tractor aside from the engine...I've run both a 10 and 12 HP engine in my 210 and didn't see any noticeable difference. But I prefer the 14 or 16 HP engines...they have a little more power for running a larger mower deck or a snowblower.
michael you ever think about getting an old cub cadet like a 104 obout the same as a 210 or 216
If I got a cub it would be a red 82 series or a 16 HP series.
I found a nice deal on some cub cadets a 104 and 107 for 700 or 1 for 475 but the guy haven't emailed me back if been looking for a John Deere 210 or 216 around that body style but there are any around my area
what the name of the belt tighter on the front
It's described in the JD parts book as just that, a belt tightener. I've always called it the mule drive - it's essentially the same thing.
Just got a 210 is it normal for it to smoke a little bit and then stop? Like yours does ??
Well they are over 40 years old at this point, so it's not unusual if the engine is original and has a lot of hours on it. All these old K series Kohlers smoke once the rings and cylinder wear.
@@MichaelTJD60Thank you for the reply I have a quick question for you, today I was mowing and when I put it in PTO with the manual lever, the mower idler blew off looks like the bearing was shot on it, it’s not the one that is in the deck it’s the one that you can see with the side panel off on the right side, the back of the belt rides on it, how do you loosen that belt when I go buy the new pulley? Cause it looks like it needs a lot of slack when I reinstall the new one? I do see like a mini screw that sticks out of the front grill bottom left corner?
Good mower. Is your steering quite stiff unlike a car?
Not really, since I always keep the gearbox and linkages greased. I wish it could turn sharper though...that's a common flaw with the 200 series, they didn't have a tight turning radius.
How do you greace your steering?
Two grease fittings on the wheel spindles and one on the gearbox itself...you have to crawl under the tractor and put the grease gun on the fitting from the bottom. Most people don't know there is a fitting there.
Mines the westwood s1600. Would that have wear?
I thought you were talking about a John Deere 210 like mine.....I've never even heard of a Westwood brand mower. Can't really help you there.
Did you use never seize when you reinstalled everything?
Yes sir. Makes a mess but saves you a lot of headaches. I wiped up the mess.
That's good.
I have a 216 idling go's up and down driving it and running sitting still. I pull the air cleaning off and gas was spitting a little back out of the carb. can you guy's help on the problem.
+jag “bunnyman” co Turn the high idle mixture screw (on top of the carburetor) 1/8 of a turn at a time and see if it smooths it out.
+jag “bunnyman” co Turn the high idle mixture screw (on top of the carburetor) 1/8 of a turn at a time and see if it smooths it out.
thanks running good now
+jag “bunnyman” co Good to hear.
May be getting a 210 from 1978. They hard to shift?
Not at all - just make sure you allow enough time for the drive belt and pulleys to stop spinning before making the shift, to prevent grinding gears.
just got a 76 model 210 dont think variator is right on it any info on them?
+mike stewart The variator is a pretty straightforward setup but if it wasn't taken care of and is not adjusted properly it can be a lot of trouble. What's wrong with it?
+MichaelTJD60 seems to either be almost a crawl or boogie mode middle dont notice any change also when ya let out on clutch sometimes you have to helo it come up with your foot or takes awhile to come out all the way
Sounds like it's just out of adjustment. Look under the tractor and you'll see the variator pulley assembly. Make sure the center pulley/sheave slides in and out on the shaft without any issues, and make sure the pulley is not loose or wobbly. Spray some graphite on the shaft to make sure it all works freely.
To do the actual adjustment, put the variator handle on the 5th notch. There are two round plugs on the right side dash tower under the variator handle. Pull off the plug that is closer to the front of the tractor. Loosen the bolt inside that hole with a 3/4" socket, and then pull the spark plug and crank the engine until the clutch pedal comes all the way up. Tighten the 3/4" bolt back down and put everything else back together and it should be good to go.
I just cut my lawn already. It smokes for no reason. Beside the oil. I think is the airbeather from gas/oil to the air fite by tubes.
Probably. Sometimes if it has too much oil it will smoke. Mine needs new rings and the head decarboned. Well, actually it needs completely rebuilt lol. Still pretty strong for what it has left. I'll probably just find a 14 HP K series or Magnum to drop in it.
MichaelTJD60 It's a cub cadet series 1000. I just reduece the oil. My Industrial Arts teacher just gave me has cub cadet in April. The only thing I did is changed the oil and oilfilter.
What gear and how far forward do you have the variable speed at when mowing
I usually mow in 3rd gear, 2nd if the grass is tall. I move the variator around since I'm always changing speed...don't usually keep it on one position.
Well when I mow it's in 3rd gear variable speed up two clicks and I mow for probably 5 minutes and then the mower starts shaking really bad and kills itself
I don't think that's a problem with the driveline....it's probably a fuel or ignition problem.
I just replaced the ignition and tweak the carburetor to Deers factory settings and is still having trouble mowing
Did you use Kohler OEM points and condenser?
what brand of tires does it have they look good
+taz Man Thanks, I was running Carlisle All-Trail 23x10.50-12 ATV/all-purpose tires on the rear at the time. I'm running Tru-Power lug tires on it now. The front tires are Carlisle Multi-Trac C/S.
Im in the middle of restoring my JD 316 rebuilding the Engine paint and any bearings that need to be replaced so I figured may as well change out the tires they are so weather checked pretty much dry rot thanks for the Info.
New tires will make a nice touch. Just make sure to get 4-ply tires because the 2-ply tires wear down much quicker.
Will do
Whats the rear tires?
Carlisle All-Trail 23x10.50-12
After all the time, money, and hours you spend to get your JD 210 restored and modified, I just was curious on how much that machine would be worth if you had to put a price on it? I usually het asked this a lot myself and i just end up keeping my old garden tractors.
It would be north of $1000 for sure...the issue is nobody wants to pay that kind of money for a 200 series anymore. I've got several thousand wrapped up into it, but I doubt I'd be able to sell it for what I would ask for it.
@@MichaelTJD60 I understand. if i wanted one in that great of condition like yours, i would pay that kind of money to have one. Do you think in 20-30 years from now, them 200 and 300 series garden tractors will be worth more? some tell me maybe, and some tell me their not sure. im hoping they will be even more. LOL.
what do you mainly use the 210 now for? I really like older machines better than the new ones because they sound like a big tractor and look like one in smaller form.
@@jeremyaldrich2889 300 series probably, 200 series probably not. There are so many 200 series out there, they are a dime a dozen and way too easy to find. The story is a little different for the 300 series.
@@jeremyaldrich2889 it really just gets taken to shows and plow days. But I haven't done any serious work with it since it busted a hydraulic hose last year.
Can you mow in reverse with this tractor
Yes, why wouldn't you be able to?
@@MichaelTJD60 because some machines have to be discontinued
That’s disconnected
@@leonardcusumano3524 this one was made before all the manufacturers started bowing down to OSHA. The reverse cutout relays didn't start finding their way into Deere lawn equipment until the mid 90's.
At 2:35 who noticed the 111 hood?
At the time I was in the process of parting out a 111.
MichaelTJD60 Michael what year is the 210?
1983
MichaelTJD60 still have the X570?
MichaelTJD60 does the 210 have power steering?
They dont build them like that any more!!!!
Damn straight. These are REAL John Deeres.
by the way nice tractors. they just don't build them as a real deere any more
+Kevin Roman Thanks man, yeah I agree, that's why I only buy the old stuff now.
are you doing any thing with the 210 still
+Kevin Roman I put the new Powerflow bagger on it this weekend and i put new brakes on it but I still need to get the PTO working.
no explanation of how the belts are routed, no explanation of the PTO or the variator. Not much information.
Hence why the video is titled "Mowing With the John Deere 210"...
No. Can't afford a deere. Westwoods are English made. Are you American?
Yes sir. Now that you mention it, I think I have heard of them on a forum once. But I don't really know anything about them. I'm guessing yours has rack and pinion steering rather than a gearbox like mine. If so, you can probably smear white lithium grease on the rack and pinion gears to reduce the friction. And check the spindles for grease fittings, like I mentioned before.
Don’t have the throttle at idle when engaging the blades have it almost full throttle that is very bad for it.
There is no need to run the engine wide open when engaging the blades. That puts excessive wear on the belts since they have to quickly accelerate from 0 RPM to 3600 RPM. It won't hurt the clutch but it will hurt the belts. I always engage at an idle or at half-throttle if the engine is cold.
Michael's right, never engage blades at high rpm
This guy talks a lot
So?