Re-adjust Rear Hatch Deck Lid After Repairing Rear Overhang - 3rd Gen Camaro
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ต.ค. 2024
- This is a follow up video from a previous repair. The rear hatch on my 3rd Gen Camaro IROC-Z was extended a long distance and was grossly misaligned. I disassembled and repaired the steel deck lid panel, but a few weeks later, I found that the bolts had lost clamp load due to the butyl sealer relaxing. At that time, I just re-torqued the bolts and left it alone, accepting a couple of millimeters of misalignment. Now, I have decided to disconnect the struts, loosen the bolts, and try to realign the panel. My thought is that the seals have stress on them and I would at least like them to relax back to original.
The detailed videos from the original repair can be seen at the following playlist:
• Repairing Camaro / Fir...
SAFETY NOTE: When I am working on the rear glass, eye protection is required in case of glass breakage either when torquing bolts or if the hatch is dropped. BOLT TORQUE is critical - if bolts are over-torqued, glass may break.
Background: This is a "Barn find" 1985 IROC-Z Z28 Camaro with Tuned Port (TPI) LB9 engine that had been parked in the same spot without running for 25 years. The original owner passed away and his father sold the car to me. It had just over 101,000 miles with virtually no rust on the body, very unusual for spending its life in Michigan.
DISCLAIMER: In my videos, I provide demonstrations, suggestions, and opinions on techniques, methods, and materials for various projects. While I try to be sure that what I share is accurate, there are no guarantees, expressed or implied, that my information is correct and will work for you. If you wish to use any of this information, you must check and verify that it is appropriate for your use - use it at your risk. Do-it-yourself projects are variable and there are risks in conducting them. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
To help eliminate movement and strut failure, I always park my 83 inside with the hood and hatch up / open. Then I cover it all with soft sheets. I also park with T tops out to reduce compression on seals. Especially being strictly a summer good weather car only.
I never thought about the t-top thing...thanks
I don't know how much it will help the struts to have the hatch open. It probably reduces the leak rate somewhat. Those are nitrogen gas charged. The pressure will be somewhat lower when they are extended, but it is still considerable.
Back in the day I worked on nitrogen gas accumulators in brakes. If the parts were made correctly they would hold a very long time. We used helium in production to measure leakage. It was a trace gas that could be detected and they could measure / predict leak rates out to at least 10 or 15 years and assure a good part. They spent most of that life at full pressure.
I hadn't thought about the T top seals, need to consider that.
Heck of a series of the deck lid repair sir!!!!!!!!!!!!! 100%
Thank you!
This could have not come at a better time!! Mine needs moved upwards - as the tail on mine is not lined up correctly and the gap up top is too big! Thanks Dan
Excellent video sir. Helped me out a bit with the adjustment for my 86 TA.
Thank you.
Those daggone struts are working 24/7 to push back on the deck. My struts are original and do not support the hatch but I'm never in there anyway so I decided to leave the weak ones in charge of maintaining the good line up of the spoiler.
After having mine apart, I have been trying to understand why some of them creep rearward, yet others don't. I suspect two things. First, did the factory apply the correct torque to the nuts / studs that hold the panel on? For example, there could have been variation in the tools used in the assembly plant . If torque was to the low side of spec, it might creep. Second, I certainly had an issue where the butyl sealing strip relaxed during the first couple of weeks and some of the bolt clamp load was lost. My butyl strip was a generic replacement, but it is possible that the factory strip may relax some amount as well. When you tighten the nuts, you clamp the nylon washers to the glass, but the butyl caulk strip absorbs some of that clamp load as well.
I think that if I had one of these cars that was still in good shape, I would go in and check the bolt torque and make sure it was still in spec. then re-torque if not.
The rear-hatch overhang is such a weird thing about these cars, noticed there are so many thoughts on what makes this happen. Some say it could also be the hatch-hinges getting bent over the years.
I don't think it is really a mystery now that I have had it apart and know how it is designed. It is fundamental engineering physics. There are 4 studs that go through large holes in the glass and have nylon pads. The pads are on both sides of the glass to clamp it when the nuts are torqued. The friction between the clamped nylon pads and the glass hold the steel panel in place. The stud and nuts clamp both the glass and the foam and butyl sealing strips at the front of the steel panel. If the clamp load on the nylon is hindered by the resistance of clamping the sealing strips or if the torque on the nuts is a little low, the steel panel will want to slide rearward.
Take a look back at this video:
th-cam.com/video/iJjJmLOtwm8/w-d-xo.html
@@bitsofwisdom460 Hiya! Thanks for answering!
I've seen through all your videos, and personally used your videos on the decklid-repair as a reference when I did it myself 2 years ago. Applied new butyl-caulk and used a silicone-strip under the decklid underneath closest to the front (to replace the factory foam-strip if I recall correctly). Did what I could to line up the deck and cure the overhang, but it didn't do much to cure it. Torqued it down, let it sit and cure overnight and re-checked torque before reassembling the rest. Still felt good about re-sealing the deck though.
@@bitsofwisdom460On the other hand, yours turned out great and looks so good. You and the Camaro ready for spring yet?
@@kmas8229 I am certainly looking forward to spring. I have a few smaller projects this winter, but so far nothing to keep me off the road.
One more thought on the deck lid. The service manual did indicate that the nylon pads should be replaced when the steel panel is removed from the glass. At this point, I couldn't find them, so re-using is the only way. I don't know the reason for recommending new ones, but if they don't seat flat or the surface finish is changed, maybe it affects the clamp load and friction.
@@bitsofwisdom460 Good to hear you're ready!
Oh snap, forgot about those. Does nylon change its properties as the years go by, as rubber does? With the sun shining on the decklid they could go through "heat-cycles" and with the pressure warp a bit too don't you think? Could new ones be made with rubber or gasket-material? What about 3D-printing?
nice but risky and noone is going to notice
You're right, most people won't notice.
I tinkered with mine last winter but truthfully it needs to be totally redone, spoiler attachmnts are rusting away not sure whats holding that thing on,and the whole thing looks like its ready to slide of back of car. Its better after I messed with it but still not totally in place.
Well, if you plan to redo it, be sure to take a look at my playlist for the original repair. If you haven't seen that yet, I went through in great detail how I took it apart, resealed and realigned it.
th-cam.com/play/PLaagkwKaZ2RUUPF7eoU2t8dV1gsG2musW.html