Thanks! I was panicking after installing a new front brake hose and it was leaking at the fittings. Thought for sure that I was going to have to replace the hard line, or cut it and make a new flare. This "exercising" the fittings worked like a charm!
This video was an absolute god-send. THANK YOU, CHUCK. AND THANK YOU INLINE TUBE!!! The deep well socket trick worked like a charm, and the seat-reseat-seat-reseat-seat method was the ultimate key to my successful brake line install. I installed stainless steel lines, which are harder than traditional carbon steel or nickel-copper lines. Because these lines are much harder, I (a neophyte) had to use your method to properly seat the lines, and then I had to really crank the lines tight. I went an "extra step" and had someone sit in the car and pump the brakes so that I could a) see where fluid was leaking (from lines that were not properly seated) under pressure and then b) tighten each fitting until there was no leaking. There is obviously a risk to damaging the fitting or flare due to over-tightening of the lines, and I want to reiterate that I am a neophyte (so you should seek counsel from someone experienced). But after much troubleshooting, cranking down the lines was the key to tight couplings and no leaks.
Very good video! I had no idea about the seating process and would ignorantly just shove the fitting in and tighten it until I couldn't anymore. Hopefully my lines will stop leaking after this haha
Bahaha. Not gonna lie I did the same thing, almost all of them were still good but I had one giving me trouble and it was the one I was beating into submission. 😅
Wow! New to flaring here. Just finished installing two long brake lines on a Honda and one of the lines was leaking even though the flares looked great. But as shown on the video the lone did not sit straight on its own. I will try these tips. Thanks so much.
I just had a load of brake leaks using "the right stuff" brake lines, crooked flares that wouldn't stop leaking,had to re-cut and re-flare to fix them. the INLINE TUBES i used for the transmission lines worked flawless.
Thankyou for the flaring advice.. I needed the great presentation you provided to know I had not lost my mind, as I am battling on going leakage, on a revamp.
Nicely Done! Im bleeding brakes after swapping out a MC and I had to remove the ABS module for a fix as well. Using a vacuum pump I keep sucking massive amounts of air from the right rear caliper bleed. Pump wont maintain vacuum, one of the ABS or MC connections must not be seated correctly Im guess. I should imagine this will help. Nicely Done, Very Nicely Done!
Going to try this method, I've got a brand new power steering line and the fitting flare as well as the witness ring on the gear box look great. Still leaks up through the top of the fitting though.
like to see a video on a tri-five with a wilwood master cylinder proportion valve, brake line installs. I have a 1956 chevy 210 series and I bought the inline brake lines. It has the wilwood front disc/ original rear drums.
Any sort of teflon or pipe dope for brake lines? Im upgrading my rat rods fromt brakes and just wondering if i use sealant on the brake hose going to the caliper. Thanks
U wanna come fix mine before I bang my head against the wall? Been trying for over a week I can't get the dang line to stop leaking. Hoses are new in the front and a new line on the pass side 🤷🏽♂️
@@inlinetubeco yaaaaaaa, I think I overtightened as I kept hearing 1/2 turn. I think I close to stripped it. Gonna have to take look at the witness ring now. I kinda need to give a thumbs down even though most of it was spot on with the deep socket help and seating.
@@charlesmcmartin8659 Well, i did the tighten/loosen thing a few times with all of my brand new, home-made copper nickel lines. You might want to add a note to your description...
I have your hard line on my 455 Olds, and it sealed with the old fuel pump, but is leaking on my replacement. The pumps appear to be identical. I have tried loosening both ends, and tightening them a little at a time, The way the line is bent, and with the angle of the fuel pump outlet, it is hard to get the line into both ends without some tension. Do you guys recommend the brass washers to help with sealing up these joints?
9n one line from the master cylinder a line leaks see an groove in the line as if off centered upon the install the cylinder port reinstalled the old line no leakage Now to repair the flare
you can always try to loosen and tighten it back and forth to see if it will seal up but it does not have the same flare are the tube. you will probably need a new bleeder.
After switching to a copper nickel line, I had a slight leak at the fitting. So I had to loosen and then tighten it real right. The leak stopped. Now, it was tight for a steel line but I am wondering if using the same tightening force on a copper nickel line will cause any damage to the copper line. After tightening it good, I had to do another half turn to stop the leak and I did loosen it a bunch of times and tightened it in increments.. And it was a double flare 3/16 line with an SAE thread. The original steel line was also very very tight. The vehicle is a '92 Jeep YJ 4.0L and the fitting that I am referring to is at the proportionating valve. Did some aggressive braking to test for leaks and it's all leak free, and it's been a month. Any feedback from you is highly appreciated.
Flare fittings take a stupid amount of torque for their size. It feels like as tight as possible with a medium sized wrench. Mine only stopped leaking until i tightened beyond what was comfortable. Nickel copper as well. The steel end of my union i tightened in the vise so i didn't have to even attempt tightening that with two wrenches
Un-freaking-believable tip about tightening-loosening-tightening. I battled a leaking caliper endlessly until this! Thanks.
Thanks! I was panicking after installing a new front brake hose and it was leaking at the fittings. Thought for sure that I was going to have to replace the hard line, or cut it and make a new flare. This "exercising" the fittings worked like a charm!
This video was an absolute god-send. THANK YOU, CHUCK. AND THANK YOU INLINE TUBE!!!
The deep well socket trick worked like a charm, and the seat-reseat-seat-reseat-seat method was the ultimate key to my successful brake line install.
I installed stainless steel lines, which are harder than traditional carbon steel or nickel-copper lines. Because these lines are much harder, I (a neophyte) had to use your method to properly seat the lines, and then I had to really crank the lines tight. I went an "extra step" and had someone sit in the car and pump the brakes so that I could a) see where fluid was leaking (from lines that were not properly seated) under pressure and then b) tighten each fitting until there was no leaking.
There is obviously a risk to damaging the fitting or flare due to over-tightening of the lines, and I want to reiterate that I am a neophyte (so you should seek counsel from someone experienced). But after much troubleshooting, cranking down the lines was the key to tight couplings and no leaks.
I guess I'm dense. What exactly are you doing with the deep well socket? The video mentions the socket and sliding it on the end, but for what?
Excellent content for a shade tree mechanic like me. Thank you!
This technique was EXTREMELY helpful! Thank you!
Hell yeah! Thank you for being straight to the point! You helped me a ton. I appreciate it guys
Wow! I’ve never read or seen those instructions before! Time to go redo my brakes lines!
Thanks so much! 🔧👍
Very good video! I had no idea about the seating process and would ignorantly just shove the fitting in and tighten it until I couldn't anymore. Hopefully my lines will stop leaking after this haha
Thanks!! glad we could help.
Bahaha. Not gonna lie I did the same thing, almost all of them were still good but I had one giving me trouble and it was the one I was beating into submission. 😅
Very nice instruction, just completing a project using your stainless steel set - super good quality !
Thanks!! we appreciate the feedback!!
Wow! New to flaring here. Just finished installing two long brake lines on a Honda and one of the lines was leaking even though the flares looked great. But as shown on the video the lone did not sit straight on its own. I will try these tips. Thanks so much.
got the same problem, great flares leaking, did that fix it?
I just had a load of brake leaks using "the right stuff" brake lines, crooked flares that wouldn't stop leaking,had to re-cut and re-flare to fix them. the INLINE TUBES i used for the transmission lines worked flawless.
WOW!! Glad we could help you fix the issues your were having. We appreciate your comment and your business.
Thankyou for the flaring advice.. I needed the great presentation you provided to know I had not lost my mind, as I am battling on going leakage, on a revamp.
You have shown me that patience is really a virtue here=Thanks~!
No problem it does take a good amount of tweaking to get them to seat correctly.
Great video thank u guys I really appreciate it
🙏Thanks bro, i done bled my brakes 20 times battling this issue.
Nicely Done! Im bleeding brakes after swapping out a MC and I had to remove the ABS module for a fix as well. Using a vacuum pump I keep sucking massive amounts of air from the right rear caliper bleed. Pump wont maintain vacuum, one of the ABS or MC connections must not be seated correctly Im guess. I should imagine this will help. Nicely Done, Very Nicely Done!
You guys saved my life Thankyou!
Good tips. Those are things I did not already do or know about.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the video i wasn't doing my line properly it was leaking and not setting.
your very welcome!! Let us know if you need any lines in the future.
I felt that tightening and loosening part!
This helped a lot……..thank you
Going to try this method, I've got a brand new power steering line and the fitting flare as well as the witness ring on the gear box look great. Still leaks up through the top of the fitting though.
like to see a video on a tri-five with a wilwood master cylinder proportion valve, brake line installs. I have a 1956 chevy 210 series and I bought the inline brake lines. It has the wilwood front disc/ original rear drums.
Thanks! we were looking for Teflon tape , then thought to watch your video.
💀
NEVER use teflon on a flare fitting.
@@garyszewc3339Why? Is it because it's essentially a compression fitting?
Excellent!! Thank you so much!!
I do this to stop leaks but I just thought my flares were crappy. Did not know it was part of the process.
you guys rock
Nice tip, helped me, thanks
No problem 👍
Any sort of teflon or pipe dope for brake lines? Im upgrading my rat rods fromt brakes and just wondering if i use sealant on the brake hose going to the caliper. Thanks
will this work for nicopp lines as well being they are softer material? great video
Yes same process applies!
Wow did not know this . Thank youb
Okay! Well after this video it seems my 74 Grand Prix might be safely on the road to cruising very soon!
Are you Merlin? That was genius!
Quality info here.
U wanna come fix mine before I bang my head against the wall? Been trying for over a week I can't get the dang line to stop leaking. Hoses are new in the front and a new line on the pass side 🤷🏽♂️
Manuals show torque specs for brake fittings but that's obviously tricky, even with a crowfoot adapter, due to its offset.
When you say tighten half a turn. Do you mean half a hex flat turn as in the video? Ie not 180 deg.
Yes I believe the script was written before the video was filmed. You will want to follow the steps in the video.
@@inlinetubeco yaaaaaaa, I think I overtightened as I kept hearing 1/2 turn. I think I close to stripped it. Gonna have to take look at the witness ring now. I kinda need to give a thumbs down even though most of it was spot on with the deep socket help and seating.
I was looking for this exact comment ... guy said back off and retighten adding half a turn more... looked like 1/32 to 1/16 of a turn more in video.
Does this exercise apply to Copper Nickel lines as well?? or only steel, ss lines?
usually copper nickel can just be tightened down since it is softer.
@@charlesmcmartin8659 Well, i did the tighten/loosen thing a few times with all of my brand new, home-made copper nickel lines. You might want to add a note to your description...
@@joem6859copper nickel is definitely more forgiving but definitely doesn’t hurt to take the time and do it right.
Wouldn’t the center of the line in the cone also depend on the bend of the line to hold itself?
I have your hard line on my 455 Olds, and it sealed with the old fuel pump, but is leaking on my replacement. The pumps appear to be identical.
I have tried loosening both ends, and tightening them a little at a time, The way the line is bent, and with the angle of the fuel pump outlet, it is hard to get the line into both ends without some tension. Do you guys recommend the brass washers to help with sealing up these joints?
No we do not use any brass washers. the line needs to be be tweaked to line up to get a good seat.
@@charlesmcmartin8659 Come to find out the new pump has a smaller cone inside. Is there an adaptor of any kind to reduce it down to match?
Thank you sir.
1:24 What is that green color on the bolt?
All of the brake line fittings are color coded as they were at GM. We carry all fittings in color
9n one line from the master cylinder a line leaks see an groove in the line as if off centered upon the install the cylinder port reinstalled the old line no leakage
Now to repair the flare
Please contact support@inlinetube.com
Can you define what you mean by "snug?"
Would this work on a leaking bleeder screw?
you can always try to loosen and tighten it back and forth to see if it will seal up but it does not have the same flare are the tube. you will probably need a new bleeder.
I've seen a few people complain about Inline Tube lines leaking. I guarantee they weren't installing properly.
After switching to a copper nickel line, I had a slight leak at the fitting. So I had to loosen and then tighten it real right. The leak stopped. Now, it was tight for a steel line but I am wondering if using the same tightening force on a copper nickel line will cause any damage to the copper line. After tightening it good, I had to do another half turn to stop the leak and I did loosen it a bunch of times and tightened it in increments.. And it was a double flare 3/16 line with an SAE thread.
The original steel line was also very very tight.
The vehicle is a '92 Jeep YJ 4.0L and the fitting that I am referring to is at the proportionating valve.
Did some aggressive braking to test for leaks and it's all leak free, and it's been a month.
Any feedback from you is highly appreciated.
Flare fittings take a stupid amount of torque for their size. It feels like as tight as possible with a medium sized wrench. Mine only stopped leaking until i tightened beyond what was comfortable. Nickel copper as well. The steel end of my union i tightened in the vise so i didn't have to even attempt tightening that with two wrenches
@@mikem5475 That's exactly how I felt; it took a lot more torque than I anticipated for the size of the fitting. Thank you for your comment!
@@theleafsprungjeeper no problem brother
Single flare or double flare
Double Flare
I have a leaking abs brake line and can’t get it to stop leaking
is it a stainless line?
Same with copper ones
Faxxx!!!
great video n dam, a single like...probably some bot anyway..compared to over a hundred likes lol :p awesome guys!
Use synthetic thread industrial sealant problems solved.
Easy there Jethro.. we save that only for special occasions.
@@codyramos3200 hahahahaha
Your tip helped a lot, thank you. Used loctite 567 high temp sealant
Fuck he makes this look like it's easy lol
Welp wish I watched this a week ago
Please get rid of the background music.