Faulty what condenser fan motor or relay???

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ส.ค. 2020
  • Is it a bad condenser fan motor or a bad relay. We are going find out www.amazon.com/shop/miheatingguy
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ความคิดเห็น • 18

  • @brandoncoffee8044
    @brandoncoffee8044 3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Just a thought... could you just block off the top of the non working condenser fan motor? At least with one working it could still pull air through the condenser and not through the opening of the bad motor. Just to get them some cooling until the motor is replaced. As long as you head pressure didn’t get to high of course. Keep the videos coming. Glad to see your back!!

  • @ThermalDynamicSevices
    @ThermalDynamicSevices 4 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    I take the black wire and put it on the load side of the contactor if I question a relay or fan lol

  • @donnierobertson3088
    @donnierobertson3088 4 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Nice job and video

  • @notanewbie1718
    @notanewbie1718 4 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    You go to a lot of trouble carrying that camera around to your jobs. It is appreciated.

  • @andygalindo8978
    @andygalindo8978 4 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Bad condenser motors hold a charge with the capacitor. Since fan blade don’t turn it won’t let some charge escape. I may be wrong.

  • @RyanAnderson-jj7xj
    @RyanAnderson-jj7xj 15 ชั่วโมงที่ผ่านมา +1

    Switch fan leads, quick and easy,
    If it still doesn't run.
    Done and gone.

  • @RJMaker
    @RJMaker 4 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    I bet you got capacitor bit. :-) I have learned the hard way to shunt any caps with a working voltage 460v and above.

    • @throttlebottle5906
      @throttlebottle5906 4 ปีที่แล้ว

      yep, just takes a bad motor winding open or loose wire and contactor to open/chatter at just the right portion of AC sine wave to leave a cap charged to line voltage or higher from motor running/back emf on relay/disconnect open, then you grab and ZAP.
      Also it will be "DC" high voltage charge with enough current to kill you instantly, so BEWARE a meter on AC won't read anything or just momentarily blink a number, many techs do not know that making it more dangerous to themselves :)

  • @bigclivedotcom
    @bigclivedotcom 4 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    I never trust the discharge resistors in capacitors (if they even have them). They often fail over time. The meter wouldn't have shown much if it was set to AC as the residual charge is DC.

    • @throttlebottle5906
      @throttlebottle5906 4 ปีที่แล้ว

      the start capacitors usually have an external bleeder resistors, the run capacitors do not and that's a run capacitor :)

    • @raymondleighton9059
      @raymondleighton9059 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      instablaster...

  • @mechanic8031
    @mechanic8031 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I like your content, good luck dear friend.

  • @rayesboy3
    @rayesboy3 4 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    As Steve Lav world say, “She ain’t no Taj Mahal”

    • @johncarcamo6772
      @johncarcamo6772 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      you know Steve has an APP its called Steve Lav Soundboard

  • @throttlebottle5906
    @throttlebottle5906 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I can only guess one winding of bad cond. fan motor open, and it charged the cap when powered up or when contactor chattered at unhooking jumpers. though it was unclear what you was touching when zapped.
    it could simply be stray/inductive voltage from wires in close proximity, say between thermostat and line wiring causing very low current yet high voltage. on 120vac stuff it;s not uncommon to see as high as 90vac, it could be higher on other voltages and will certainly tingle/wake you up brushed against the back of a hand/finger or other body part. flat grabbing the leads would make it go to near 0 and not feel anything

  • @jerryr6713
    @jerryr6713 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    amp clamp suspect fan motor wire to see if power present.

  • @hvac97849
    @hvac97849 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    I would guess that the fan never turned off due to the stuck relay, hence premature failure.
    Nitrile gloves would be in your best interest, just sayin

  • @amadeusrocks4967
    @amadeusrocks4967 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    the cap most likely