Just got to say THANK YOU!! Yesterday evening downstairs AC went out. Call home warranty company they can't get here until Tuesday and I had to sleep upstairs. :-( Searched TH-cam found your video and Every HVAC parts store was closed except one this morning that was closing soon. Got the capacitor, installed it following your guide and I have AC again!! As easy as you said. Thank you for a great video! Yes I did subscribe!
I really like the way you explain this process. My outside unit is humming trying to kick in but the fan is not running. I tried to spin it with a screwdriver. Nothing I’m going to try replacing the capacitor. Wish me luck. A man charged me $450 back in 2009 when I became a new homeowner. What a ripped off it was!!! Knowledge is powerful. Thanks a lot
@@mccartneystuart It didn’t. I called an A/C man who recently replaced my dad’s unit. He told me it was the fan motor. The wires that ran inside the motor burnt out. I bought one online for $75 and replaced it myself. It was very easy.
@@tdatilma good to know and I appreciate the reply as I'm in the same situation although I spun the fan on mine with a screwdriver and it kicked the fan on so hopefully it's just the capacitor. Picked one up for $31 today and will put it in when I get home from work. Went to 4 HVAC supply stores and all were out of the one I needed and the 5th store had one. Not sure why they're difficult to find unless the supply chain shortage has hit the HVAC industry too. Thanks again.
Bro - You just saved me a lot of money. $100 just to come out to check the system and assess the issue. Minimum charge $200. Cost me $19 and 10 mins of my time. Could have been cheaper but chose a capacitor with the best recommendations 👍
thank you for sharing your knowledge. I replaced both my capacitors for roughly $25, whereas the HVAC company quoted me $260 for the service call and the repair plus parts.
Thank you for the video! I fixed my AC and it cost me $21, It's mother's day weekend and I'm sure it wouldn't be cheap to get and AC guy out here. Your video saved me money!
thank you so much! Service guy tried to tell me need a new system @6500. this part cost me $11. Amen 🙏. Made me look large in the wife's eyes. when I save that kinda money it pays extra frisky dividends for Papi Papi. lol
Great video. My AC quit today with exact symptoms shown. I removed the dual run capacitor (old Carrier from 2000) and it was buldging. Bought one at an electronics store for $11 and my AC is purring right along. I had an hvac repairman fix it 5 years ago and it was over $150. Lesson learned.
Jeff, gotta say thanks for this video. Your vid had two caps, start and run, and other videos only focus on the run cap. If your motors not starting, most lily the start cap, but some may have a single start run cap. This got me up and going in the heat and some more time on my ac unit without the added cost!!!! Thanks again!
@@jeffostroff I went out to my AC unit, removed the fuses from the disconnect box. My neighbor had offered to help (he is not an electrician & I could see he was not comfortable at assisting in my project). I removed the screws from the cover with my 5/16 socket. The next step the video said to do was: to insure the run capacitor is discharged, place a screw driver with with an insulated handle along both sets of terminals. That’s when everything came to a halt. We could hear the buzzing, which he said meant there was still electricity running to it. I took a photo of the capacitor I needed to order & I put everything back together again. I searched for the answer to my question - if the fuse box is off, what is powering the buzzing sound. That was not addressed in any of the videos I watched. I searched & searched the web and finally came across a blog that said the fan needed to be turned off, because it was sending message to capacitor to turn on, so power was still going to it plus not good for AC motor because it could cause more damage. I went to thermostat which I am still learning to work & could not find how to shut it off! It just went from auto to manual. I came back to internet & searched again and learned that there should be a switch - like a light switch by the inside unit. I looked and looked by the furnace area (I just learned which was the furnace shortly after my husband was killed a year and a half ago) just as I was going to give up I found it! I switched it off, and sure enough the thermostat shut off completely and the outdoor unit’s buzzing had stopped! I was so excited - I felt a sense of accomplishment Lol! My part arrived last night $16.79 (Amazon Prime) as opposed to $60.00 for exact same part at HVAC store! So today, I hope to do this. I don’t think I’ll ask my neighbor for a hand, I’m sure I can do this. Though he probably saved me from getting electrocuted since I was going to continue even with the buzzing sound. My brother made me a little nervous but I’m praying all will go well.
I like the video. Funny, I have the exact same AC unit and multimeter, its like you made the video specifically for me. I'm going to check my capacitor right now to confirm that it is bad. I appreciate the help!
Thank you Jeffostroff. This video gave me the confidence to dive into my non-cooling air conditioner. Had a dual start capacitor, but learned enough here to give it a shot.
Such an easy fix! Thanks so much Jeff for sharing this video. Got the part in less than 24hrs and you saved us from paying a premium and a Vegas heatwave.
Good on you for fixing your own condensing unit! I've had to do the same thing a couple of times, once at 4 am! I always keep spare caps and a spare contactor on hand for just such an occasion. BTW, that round unit is a dual run cap and is supposed to work with both the compressor and the fan motor - 35+5 means 35mfd for the compressor and 5mfd for the fan motor. The terminals are likely labeled common, fan, and herm (for the compressor). You really shouldn't need that 10 mfd cap.
Yes you are partially correct. I believe the reason we need this 10 UF cap is because a newer blower fan motor was installed a few years ago, and the sticker on that newer fan shows the circuit diagram including the 10 UF cap, so I assume 35 UF would be too much for that particular motor. It is likely that the original fan motor supplied by Rheem was originally fed by that larger dual run cap. That would also explain why there is no parking spot in there for the 10 UF cap, because the original cap was wired to both the compressor and the fan.
@@jeffostroff If you went to the supply store, you should of got the right capacitor for the unit. There is only one hole because you only need one capacitor. You should of got a 35/10. No need to have 2 in there if you get the right one.
@@5jjt Like I said he went to parts store and he should of got the right one, a 35/10. This is a duel capacitor and will run the fan and compressor. No need to have 2 different capacitors to do the job that one could do.
jeffostroff how about you leave it to the professionals and stop showing people how to kill them self. Just because you turn the disconnect off doesn’t mean power isn’t still flowing through the unit. People like You is what kill people.
@colleenallmyfriends I Agree 1000 percent. You still have to have common sense to tackle any job. I simply handled the capacitor as if it were a live wire. avoiding contact with the old unit. Maybe that was too much caution, but it worked for me.
My AC compressor stopped working after following this video bought the same multimeter and found that my capacitor was bad. Ordered a new one and installed it. Works great, amazing how easy it was to do. Thanks for posting this video, very helpful.
Yes and no doubt saved a service call, install cap fee and the part being highly over priced. Likely $300 saved but HVAC techs have a fuel drinking truck, insurance, maintenance, stocked with HVAC parts and equipment to pay for.
Thank you so much for this video. I had no prior experience working with well anything having to do with my AC unit. I followed your instructions and my AC unit is working. I was quoted 2K dollars to fix my AC unit. I was able to get it back running for $30.
Love it...our capacitor is a dual type and it is the original one that came with the unit in 1991. So is the condenser motor ! We have a new USA made motor and capacitor in reserve just in case.
Great content. One comment/clarification though. The start cap doesn’t provide a jolt to get the motor running. More precisely, its purpose is to create a phase difference between the start and run windings within the motor. It’s this phase difference that creates the torque necessary to get the rotor spinning. Without it, both the start and run windings would be in phase with each other, and the torque necessary to start the motor couldn’t be produced.
Agree with others on only needing the one cap. Also, can't believe you didn't have some steel strap and a couple of sheet metal screws to fasten them down to the frame.
Either way works. Some techs believe two caps tend to work or be more robust than the single. Also, with the single cap, the brown with white stripe is not used and capped off.
Thanks so much! I just had this happen to our unit which has a dual cap. Top was bulging and was the culprit. Noticed chewed up wires too (mice). Cut out the bad stuff, redid all connections with new wire nuts, and installed a new cap for twenty-two bucks!
We already bought a new $10,000 Dave Lennox Signature Collection X25 Series AC last month. The grass can keep the screws. Will be uploading a video on this hopefully in a week or so
I don't think it's been mentioned in the video, so I'll mention it here. Be very careful around capacitors, especially large ones like in the video. They can kill you if they still hold a charge, which is also very likely if you just ran the AC unit and decided to open it. Make sure to measure the capacitor with a multimeter and discharge it before handling it. Although a bad capacitor will most likely not hold a lot of charge, if you're wrong about your diagnosis and the capacitor is good and something else is wrong with the unit, a charged capacitor, especially one rated for 370/420V can really hurt you.
@@genenegeda509 There are a few different ways to do it, professionally you would use a capacitor discharge tool, which will discharge the capacitor and give you an indication when it's safe, but for people at home, bridging the positive and negative terminals of the capacitor together for 5-10 seconds with something like a screw driver with an insulated handle or a high wattage medium value resistor should do the job.
Yeah from what I understand its a pretty bad idea he's touching the capacitors? But obviously he must know so what am I missing? He initially said he thought the stronger capacitor was good.
Glad to find your comment here. This was going to be my only critique of an otherwise helpful video given how nonchalant Jeff is in handling the capacitors, especially touching the terminals. That goes for the old ones AND the new ones. The new ones could hold a charge from factory testing or even from someone returning the unit. BE CAREFUL OUT THERE!
Ive followed your directions. I do have a question my round capacitor all numbers match but its bigger around. Does that matter? Though on the last time I watched I realized I hear no humming.
Great video, I believe this is the problem to my AC. Don’t you need a HVAC license to buy AC parts and components? If not where can I go and buy these items in Katy, TX?
This video might be a little older but it’s priceless. Excellent troubleshooting explanation. Idk if anyone still monitors this but I was curious about a high efficiency 17-19 seer Luxair unit. Under 75 degrees ambient temp condenser Fan motor blows after the compressor is done running. Multiple speed fan in condenser 3-5 ton. I thought the fan was supposed to run every single time the compressor ran. Maybe this is something new? Thanks to anyone that can help.
Some A/C units have a low ambient temp control in it that controls the condenser motor. It may not come on with the compressor if the pressures are low on the discharge side. It will come on as the pressure increases.
@@gibraltar321 Thank you. That makes sense. I notice there is no connection for the fan from the capacitor, it's off the main board of the condensor. However the compressor gets very loud sometimes after it's been running and the fan hasn't kicked on yet. It seems like it is out of range but IDK if that's an option for my unit. I'm still trying to find info on my Luxaire system to see how it all works.
@@jeffostroff MIne is weird. Sometimes the fan starts before compressor start up, sometimes together and sometimes a few minutes after compressor start up. All different ambient temps, nothing is consistent. I almost positive I have a clogged filter drier and that's screwing things up.
Check the capacitance with a meter if you have one, see if it still has the capacitance, maybe it blew. Maybe you need a hard start capacitor. Is the compressor still humming, but not turning on?
No many units have one capacitor housing that contains 2 caps, one for the fan and one for the compressor. For whatever reason,. the original installers used 2 separate caps. My configuration of getting the 35 uF cap with the 10 uF cap in the housing was hard to find.
So I replaced the capacitor and the fan is now working but I still cant get the house below 87, i hear the compressor humming but it seems the fan cuts on and off quickly (maybe 5 mon run time) not sure the next step to take.
#Salute that has worked for me in the past. Unfortunately for me my one of my 18 year old units may not be able to be fixed. I tried a spare capacitor from Grainger I had. Then I got a Titan brand one from Ace Hardware today and the unit turned on and spun like new for a few mins then the fan just slowed down and spun slowly with a loud hum. I have ordered a new one from Amazon coming tomorrow morning, hopefully it works. 3 capacitors in 2 days isn't good. Maybe they were bad like some parts are. I'm going to harbor freight to get a new multi meter to test them like you did tonight to see if I can get some information.
Hi, your video is very informative. For my unit, it turns on ok with cold air blowing out and the fan is running. But the fan stop turning after few seconds. What could be the problem. Mind is a Keeprite SSC-31-ID built in 1980's. Thank you
Well I would definitely check the values of the capacitors, and if you have any in line thermal fuse check that as well. But it just sounds to me like the motor for the fan is going luckily you can get the fan yourself for about $100 or so I'm not surprised this have really shot up recently I just haven't looked after COVID
@jeffostroff Nice video, and thanks for sharing. I just want to point out that your run capacitor had 3 connectors because it was a 35/5 MFD dual run capacitor. This means there was one common connector, with the other two being for the fan and compressor (or Herm) respectively. When you were replacing the capacitor, you didn't need to buy a separate 10 MFD capacitor for the fan. In the past, someone had installed a separate fan capacitor because the main run capacitor's fan side had failed. You measured it as 3.3 MFD, whereas it should have been 5 MFD. The other technician only added a separate capacitor for the fan side but incorrectly used a 10 MFD instead of the required 5 MFD. This was only a makeshift arrangement. However, with your new 35/5 MFD dual-run capacitor, you didn't need to use a separate capacitor for the fan. You could simply connect one wire to the common terminal and the other wire to the fan terminal. You could save $6 while using the original values would likely have made your unit function better.
Mine looks just like that. I’ve replaced fan motor. Then replace the rectangular part with the button. Next I’ll check the capacitor. Mine doesn’t have the smaller one.
I have heat pumps and one my outside fan makes a “wom wom wom wom…” (a wom a second). What’s up with that? Also seems like sometimes when the heat is on the outside fan doesn’t come on at all.
There's so many things that can cause that, starting with the fan itself, or maybe the cap getting ready to go. this web site here has a listing of 15 possible things to try: inspectapedia.com/aircond/Air_Conditioner_Short_Cycling.php
Please make sure you don't touch the run capacitors before discharging it with an insulated screwdriver. Don't want anyone to get hurt. Also you may have one 'dual run capacitor' which includes capacitors for both compressor and fan in one. Lastly, advise not to put screws loose on top of the unit. You will lose them as hey were about to fall in through the screen once the A/C fired up.
I tend to use the same parts that were already in there. They do have dual caps, but on that day when I went in to buy it, they had none in stock of this configuration of 35 uF and 10 uF.
thanks jeffostroff! I am looking at overhauling my AC and it looks just like the one you have pictured. Thanks for your parts list pinned below. I also want to change out the "contactor". i opened mine up and its identical, but unfortunetly the part number has worn away. It "looks" like 9517 honeywell di242r but i could be mistaken. i cant find any part that matches this number. Can i use an atlernative, if so, what? thanks again!!
Excellent video - I have a similar problem and I see the large capacitor (for compressor fan) but can't find the small one for the blower squirl cage? I think it has some kind of cover on the motor. maybe underneath? I think the unit is a Fridgidaire heat pump. Q7RE Series - Most of the time I have to jump through hoops for 15 mins before the squirl cage will finally start (with several false starts). Then I just leave the fan set to ON . The compressor seems to go on & off ok !! I did notice our elec bill last month was like double 😞. Guess I'll try tonight when it's a bit cooler outside (Florida). Damn 5lb mosquitoes will probably find me lol
Is it possible that the large capacitor runs both fans? It's labled C65R (45+7.5)uF+/-5% 370VAC 10000AFC? Sign of the motor cover says Warning - don't take the cover off !! I've been daring before but just thought I'd check. Thanks in advance for any feedback 😊
@@ProjectDreamCatcher Yes, his setup is not normal. A single capacitor will have two different capacitance values. He should have a single 35uF / 10uF capacitor. My guess is a repair was made and the HVAC tech didn't have the right capacitor in his truck, but had a separate one that would work for the fan. Therefore he has a weird setup where he has a 35 / 5 capacitor where he doesn't use the 5uF capacitor for his fan (note he doesn't connect anything to one of the connectors on the large capacitor), and then uses a 10uF capacitor for the fan. So you likely have the proper setup with a single capacitor for both. The capacitor is there to store up and then provide a jolt of electricity to power the start-up of the fan motor and the compressor. If it sometimes doesn't work, or never works, it sounds like it is probably the capacitor. Look at the two capacitance values on the capacitor and find a single capacitor that matches the two capacitance values and the voltage. Then take a picture of the 4 wires going into the top of the old capacitor (there should be connectors for fan, herm, and C (for common). Should have one wire to fan, one to herm, and two to C. Hook up the new capacitor the same way and it should be good. Turn off the power to the HVAC unit and turn off the system on your thermostat to be safe. Discharge any power in the capacitor by using a screwdriver with an insulated handle to bridge the connectors on the top of the capacitor. FYI, your fan setting is for the air vent fans, not the cooling fan on the outdoor unit. Setting it to always on will not always run the outdoor fan.
Hello there, I just subscribed. My hvac is doing the samething and i think your video will solve the issue. Question. Are capacitors standard size or unit for any hvac?
@@jeffostroff you know i checked the capacitor and its newly replaced (april 2021). The hvac fan is on and off. Sometimes it would make a humming noise. Not sure if thats something we should be concerned about. Btw, the hvac is from 1994 year old.
Question. I replaced the dual run cap only 6 months ago. It checks good. wire connection check good. The condenser fan will not kick on every once in a while. It's happened twice about 3 weeks apart. I know it's going to happen again, just don't know when. I'm thinking a winding in the fan motor may be bad and every so often the fan comes to rest on that winding which is the phase winding for the cap. Thoughts?
My ac unit is humming but not nearly as loud. The vents inside are blowing air and I just replaced the capacitor today but the fan still isn’t spinning. Any tips?
Thank you Jeff, I replaced the fan as recommended by the $175 service call. I also replaced the capacitor. Fan still doesn’t spin. Compressor hums but no fan. I spin the fan but it does not work What next?
Unplug the capacitor, and make sure it is the correct capacitance. Make sure you corrected the correct wires to the correct terminals on the cap. Usually they have a sticker somewhere on the compressor with a wiring diagram so you can confirm that the correct wires for the fan are going to this cap. You might also try adding a hard start capacitor, we have a video on that too..
I need help. Can you please tell me what to do? I have an '89 Ruud that looks a lot like yours. My fan is humming and HOT, but won't spin. Capacitors are good, wiring is correct, I'm getting 240V into the line, contactor depressed when the thermostat calls for cooling, compressor is happily humming and I tested the blower motor's wires (2 "lower" readings (126 & 41) equal exactly the common reading (167). I have a new blower motor and can replace it, but I want to know if that's what needs to be done first. Fan blades spin freely when pushed, but it only hums and gets wicked hot fast. Are those readings for the fan wires too low? I'm just a stay at home mom with zero hvac experience and can't afford an hvac tech. Don't worry, I'm crazy about safety! Please help me. Thanks for reading!
I had to replace the fan motor twice in 17 years that I owned my AC. It's about $120. I bet that is the issue. also check contactor for leaves, insects, and others that will prevent full voltage getting through.
@@jeffostroff Thank you!!!! I've gently vacuumed out all the electrical parts/contactor. Would air duster be a good idea too, or not? I went ahead and took off the old motor (fan blade was fun! ha), got the new motor in and wires connected. Tomorrow I've got a new fan cap coming so I'm hoping it starts right up once I get it in. Thanks again! I really appreciate your quick reply Update! Fan was CCW and I noticed it was blowing the wrong way after a couple minutes of running, so I swapped the 2 wires to get it spinning clockwise and it sounds perfect. However, now I'm worried about the compressor because it got wicked hot after an hour last night so I turned it off for 12 hours. I'm sure it's low on r22, but so far it's running and not overheating. I hope I can get an honest tech out here asap because I'm definitely not qualified to work on or recharge a compressor.
I was able to get the fan to start spinning with a long plastic stick after repeated attempts. I noticed the fan surface in the center of the shield was very warm though, which suggests to me, the problem is the fan motor? Your thoughts? Symptom was a buzzing every few minutes, but no spinning fan. I got it to spin with the plastic stick, but I don't think it got up to normal speed. We have 2 compressors and the other smaller ones fan seems to have higher rpm for sure. And it's still buzzing periodically, but the fan is spinning.
If you had to push the fan to get it going, then your fan motor appears to be ready to go. I would start looking for the part locally and checking the prices to see who has it for the lowest price, and be ready to pounce. these things like to fail at 5:59 PM, before you can get to the parts warehouse at 6 PM closing, then you have a nice long hot night ahead of you.
I took mine compacitor out and it has no label on it. I think its the original one with thr label on show tt10000 sh1238 from aerovox. I called reheem and they told me its 50/5 370v . I went out ac hardware i bought that and it foesnt work. What should i do
Well I changed the capacitor and it worked. Then stopped again next day. Fan wire to the board looked burnt lol. I cut wire and repaired it and I hear the noise but it’s every 30 seconds only.. I tried spinning the fan but it won’t go. Any ideas? Thanks!!
IT could be the motor is wearing it out, you might have to replace the fan motor. I have done this on my own AC units at home twice, and one on each of 2 different condos I own, it is a common problem. Replace it yourself for $100 cost of the fan. The Ac companies will charge you $300 to $400. Also check the relay, make sur eit is clean and not rusty, and look for bugs in and around the relay and under it, clean out all bugs and leaves, that sometimes prevents the relay from making ocntact.
Could the compresson go bad or the fan in the unit if it was running like this overnight? In the evening, when i went to sleep, it worked fine, but in the morning, when i woke up, it was buzzing.
Yes so the compressor could be working late at night when it's cooler and you go to bed but remember that it is turning on and off several times during the night and that will heat up the compressor to the point now that it's so hot it wants to seize and that's what you see in the morning when you get up and you see that the compressor is not on it's just humming.
Had the loud hum like at the beginning, replaced the capitator with the same type, didn't fix it, still hummed, replaced the contactor with same type, still hummed, no fan movement - replaced the fan with the same type - now, still not working and NO HUM. Have tested all capacitor and contactor parts by swapping with the downstairs unit that's identical, and they work in down in the downstairs unit so it's not them. Tested the fan with OHM meter and it tests okay. Ideas?
I’ve read that if the refrigerant is also low it will cause the same issue. Before the capacitors there is a junction. in that junction there is a small switch that goes up and down to pass the 24V. if that switch is stuck it will also cause the same problem. I believe the the small switch is in the up position and when it goes down it is supposed to complete the circuit turning on the unit outside.
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VERY GOOD, THANK YOU! MAY YH BLESS U. NOTE: YOUR 2SEREWS FLEW AWAY!
Thank you! Half an hour to Ace Hardware and back I had my A/C up and running again. You saved me tons of $$$!!
Just got to say THANK YOU!! Yesterday evening downstairs AC went out. Call home warranty company they can't get here until Tuesday and I had to sleep upstairs. :-( Searched TH-cam found your video and Every HVAC parts store was closed except one this morning that was closing soon. Got the capacitor, installed it following your guide and I have AC again!! As easy as you said. Thank you for a great video! Yes I did subscribe!
I really like the way you explain this process. My outside unit is humming trying to kick in but the fan is not running. I tried to spin it with a screwdriver. Nothing
I’m going to try replacing the capacitor. Wish me luck. A man charged me $450 back in 2009 when I became a new homeowner. What a ripped off it was!!! Knowledge is powerful. Thanks a lot
Did changing the capacitor fix the problem?
@@mccartneystuart It didn’t. I called an A/C man who recently replaced my dad’s unit. He told me it was the fan motor. The wires that ran inside the motor burnt out. I bought one online for $75 and replaced it myself. It was very easy.
@@tdatilma good to know and I appreciate the reply as I'm in the same situation although I spun the fan on mine with a screwdriver and it kicked the fan on so hopefully it's just the capacitor. Picked one up for $31 today and will put it in when I get home from work. Went to 4 HVAC supply stores and all were out of the one I needed and the 5th store had one. Not sure why they're difficult to find unless the supply chain shortage has hit the HVAC industry too. Thanks again.
Bro - You just saved me a lot of money. $100 just to come out to check the system and assess the issue. Minimum charge $200. Cost me $19 and 10 mins of my time. Could have been cheaper but chose a capacitor with the best recommendations 👍
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it!
thank you for sharing your knowledge. I replaced both my capacitors for roughly $25, whereas the HVAC company quoted me $260 for the service call and the repair plus parts.
Glad it helped, yes the AC repair people charge an arm and a leg for a dirt cheap component
Thank you for the video! I fixed my AC and it cost me $21, It's mother's day weekend and I'm sure it wouldn't be cheap to get and AC guy out here. Your video saved me money!
Glad it helped Sean!
thank you so much! Service guy tried to tell me need a new system @6500. this part cost me $11. Amen 🙏. Made me look large in the wife's eyes. when I save that kinda money it pays extra frisky dividends for Papi Papi. lol
Glad I could help
Great video. My AC quit today with exact symptoms shown. I removed the dual run capacitor (old Carrier from 2000) and it was buldging. Bought one at an electronics store for $11 and my AC is purring right along. I had an hvac repairman fix it 5 years ago and it was over $150. Lesson learned.
We just used your video to help us repair our AC and when I say you're a lifesaver it's an understatement! From the bottom of my heart, THANK YOU 💛
I have the same exact problem. You gave me enough confidence to want to do it myself. I’ll keep you posted. Thanks
Viewed this vid, saved a service call and $100's, thanks. Couldn't find a mailing address to send a thank you check.
Jeff, gotta say thanks for this video.
Your vid had two caps, start and run, and other videos only focus on the run cap. If your motors not starting, most lily the start cap, but some may have a single start run cap.
This got me up and going in the heat and some more time on my ac unit without the added cost!!!!
Thanks again!
Thank You! I am recently widowed, and tomorrow will attempt to do this repair. I appreciate all the great info!
You can do it! Let me know if it works out for you Patti!
How'd it go?
@@jeffostroff I went out to my AC unit, removed the fuses from the disconnect box. My neighbor had offered to help (he is not an electrician & I could see he was not comfortable at assisting in my project). I removed the screws from the cover with my 5/16 socket. The next step the video said to do was: to insure the run capacitor is discharged, place a screw driver with with an insulated handle along both sets of terminals. That’s when everything came to a halt. We could hear the buzzing, which he said meant there was still electricity running to it. I took a photo of the capacitor I needed to order & I put everything back together again. I searched for the answer to my question - if the fuse box is off, what is powering the buzzing sound. That was not addressed in any of the videos I watched. I searched & searched the web and finally came across a blog that said the fan needed to be turned off, because it was sending message to capacitor to turn on, so power was still going to it plus not good for AC motor because it could cause more damage. I went to thermostat which I am still learning to work & could not find how to shut it off! It just went from auto to manual. I came back to internet & searched again and learned that there should be a switch - like a light switch by the inside unit. I looked and looked by the furnace area (I just learned which was the furnace shortly after my husband was killed a year and a half ago) just as I was going to give up I found it! I switched it off, and sure enough the thermostat shut off completely and the outdoor unit’s buzzing had stopped! I was so excited - I felt a sense of accomplishment Lol! My part arrived last night $16.79 (Amazon Prime) as opposed to $60.00 for exact same part at HVAC store! So today, I hope to do this. I don’t think I’ll ask my neighbor for a hand, I’m sure I can do this. Though he probably saved me from getting electrocuted since I was going to continue even with the buzzing sound. My brother made me a little nervous but I’m praying all will go well.
Thanks again!
Thanks!
Thanks for the donation Eric! Glad you liked the video
I like the video. Funny, I have the exact same AC unit and multimeter, its like you made the video specifically for me. I'm going to check my capacitor right now to confirm that it is bad. I appreciate the help!
Glad it helped I bet you don't have the same rusty capacitor! LOL!
Thank you so much Jeff. I had the exact same symptoms and ordered a new capacitor from Amazon, replaced it and it fixed the problem, AC working well!
Awesome, glad to hear you got it back up and running!
Followed your advice, and my capacitor was indeed bulging, so I ordered one from Amazon today. Should be back up running tomorrow after delivery.
Excellent video with lots very valuable and helpful information that's easy to comprehend.
Great video Jeff... I appreciate your videos; they are very helpful.
Thank you Jeffostroff. This video gave me the confidence to dive into my non-cooling air conditioner. Had a dual start capacitor, but learned enough here to give it a shot.
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it! Charlie
Such an easy fix! Thanks so much Jeff for sharing this video. Got the part in less than 24hrs and you saved us from paying a premium and a Vegas heatwave.
Good on you for fixing your own condensing unit! I've had to do the same thing a couple of times, once at 4 am! I always keep spare caps and a spare contactor on hand for just such an occasion. BTW, that round unit is a dual run cap and is supposed to work with both the compressor and the fan motor - 35+5 means 35mfd for the compressor and 5mfd for the fan motor. The terminals are likely labeled common, fan, and herm (for the compressor). You really shouldn't need that 10 mfd cap.
Yes you are partially correct. I believe the reason we need this 10 UF cap is because a newer blower fan motor was installed a few years ago, and the sticker on that newer fan shows the circuit diagram including the 10 UF cap, so I assume 35 UF would be too much for that particular motor. It is likely that the original fan motor supplied by Rheem was originally fed by that larger dual run cap. That would also explain why there is no parking spot in there for the 10 UF cap, because the original cap was wired to both the compressor and the fan.
@@jeffostroff If you went to the supply store, you should of got the right capacitor for the unit. There is only one hole because you only need one capacitor. You should of got a 35/10. No need to have 2 in there if you get the right one.
@@DC-uu4yq Is what you're saying true despite the OP's comment regarding the fan previously being changed out and having different ratings?
@@5jjt Like I said he went to parts store and he should of got the right one, a 35/10. This is a duel capacitor and will run the fan and compressor. No need to have 2 different capacitors to do the job that one could do.
@@DC-uu4yq theres a cable that runs from the motor run and the dual where would that cable go if it doesnt need the second one?
Didn’t know that it was this simple, going to make an attempt in a few
Nice video. I think you should show how to "de-energize" the caps to be safe.
Great suggestion! Of course by time you measure 0 uF they are already lacking any energy.
jeffostroff how about you leave it to the professionals and stop showing people how to kill them self. Just because you turn the disconnect off doesn’t mean power isn’t still flowing through the unit. People like
You is what kill people.
@colleenallmyfriends I Agree 1000 percent. You still have to have common sense to tackle any job. I simply handled the capacitor as if it were a live wire. avoiding contact with the old unit. Maybe that was too much caution, but it worked for me.
My AC compressor stopped working after following this video bought the same multimeter and found that my capacitor was bad. Ordered a new one and installed it. Works great, amazing how easy it was to do. Thanks for posting this video, very helpful.
Glad it helped
Yes and no doubt saved a service call, install cap fee and the part being highly over priced. Likely $300 saved but HVAC techs have a fuel drinking truck, insurance, maintenance, stocked with HVAC parts and equipment to pay for.
You saved us like $350 with this video!
Thanks, I'm glad you liked the video!
Thank you so much for this video. I had no prior experience working with well anything having to do with my AC unit. I followed your instructions and my AC unit is working.
I was quoted 2K dollars to fix my AC unit. I was able to get it back running for $30.
Great to hear Christina!
Friking thieves to charge that much
Amen! Thank you for your time and clear explanation. Using your advice I was able to get mine back up and running.
Awesome, glad to help!
Love it...our capacitor is a dual type and it is the original one that came with the unit in 1991. So is the condenser motor ! We have a new USA made motor and capacitor in reserve just in case.
Great content. One comment/clarification though. The start cap doesn’t provide a jolt to get the motor running. More precisely, its purpose is to create a phase difference between the start and run windings within the motor. It’s this phase difference that creates the torque necessary to get the rotor spinning. Without it, both the start and run windings would be in phase with each other, and the torque necessary to start the motor couldn’t be produced.
Your video helped me fix my problem Sir. Thank you so much.
Agree with others on only needing the one cap. Also, can't believe you didn't have some steel strap and a couple of sheet metal screws to fasten them down to the frame.
That was the old AC and how it was setup. We got rid of it soon after
Either way works. Some techs believe two caps tend to work or be more robust than the single. Also, with the single cap, the brown with white stripe is not used and capped off.
You saved me a bunch of money today. Thank you!
Glad I could help! Colin!
Thanks so much! I just had this happen to our unit which has a dual cap. Top was bulging and was the culprit. Noticed chewed up wires too (mice). Cut out the bad stuff, redid all connections with new wire nuts, and installed a new cap for twenty-two bucks!
You're welcome!
Awesome video! Now you’ll just need to find those missing screws.
We already bought a new $10,000 Dave Lennox Signature Collection X25 Series AC last month. The grass can keep the screws. Will be uploading a video on this hopefully in a week or so
Hahaha I was watching those screws rattle their way off next to the compressor. That stressed me out for some reason.
@@alextownley9556 same....i was waiting to hear the fan spit them out.
Thanks Jeff for all these great tips! You're the best man!
Glad you like them!
Just replace my motor, still having humming, I'll try capacitor and relay tomorrow, good info.
Let us know if it worked
Simple and easy to understand! Thanks so much!
Glad you liked it!
I don't think it's been mentioned in the video, so I'll mention it here. Be very careful around capacitors, especially large ones like in the video. They can kill you if they still hold a charge, which is also very likely if you just ran the AC unit and decided to open it. Make sure to measure the capacitor with a multimeter and discharge it before handling it. Although a bad capacitor will most likely not hold a lot of charge, if you're wrong about your diagnosis and the capacitor is good and something else is wrong with the unit, a charged capacitor, especially one rated for 370/420V can really hurt you.
Very good point. You said ‘discharge it’ , How do you discharge it? Just wait till measurements go zero? Thanks!
@@genenegeda509 There are a few different ways to do it, professionally you would use a capacitor discharge tool, which will discharge the capacitor and give you an indication when it's safe, but for people at home, bridging the positive and negative terminals of the capacitor together for 5-10 seconds with something like a screw driver with an insulated handle or a high wattage medium value resistor should do the job.
Yeah from what I understand its a pretty bad idea he's touching the capacitors? But obviously he must know so what am I missing? He initially said he thought the stronger capacitor was good.
Glad to find your comment here. This was going to be my only critique of an otherwise helpful video given how nonchalant Jeff is in handling the capacitors, especially touching the terminals. That goes for the old ones AND the new ones. The new ones could hold a charge from factory testing or even from someone returning the unit. BE CAREFUL OUT THERE!
No one mentioned the screw almost going in the fan at the end. Control your hardware also
Ive followed your directions. I do have a question my round capacitor all numbers match but its bigger around. Does that matter? Though on the last time I watched I realized I hear no humming.
Awesome! Thank you 😊
Great video, I believe this is the problem to my AC. Don’t you need a HVAC license to buy AC parts and components? If not where can I go and buy these items in Katy, TX?
Nice work, thanks for sharing. Time to troubleshoot
Glad to help
This video might be a little older but it’s priceless. Excellent troubleshooting explanation. Idk if anyone still monitors this but I was curious about a high efficiency 17-19 seer Luxair unit. Under 75 degrees ambient temp condenser
Fan motor blows after the compressor is done running. Multiple speed fan in condenser 3-5 ton. I thought the fan was supposed to run every single time the compressor ran. Maybe this is something new? Thanks to anyone that can help.
YEs I too thought the fan motor should stop when the compressor is off, unless it is remaining on to cool off the compressor
Some A/C units have a low ambient temp control in it that controls the condenser motor. It may not come on with the compressor if the pressures are low on the discharge side. It will come on as the pressure increases.
@@gibraltar321 Thank you. That makes sense. I notice there is no connection for the fan from the capacitor, it's off the main board of the condensor. However the compressor gets very loud sometimes after it's been running and the fan hasn't kicked on yet. It seems like it is out of range but IDK if that's an option for my unit. I'm still trying to find info on my Luxaire system to see how it all works.
@@jeffostroff MIne is weird. Sometimes the fan starts before compressor start up, sometimes together and sometimes a few minutes after compressor start up. All different ambient temps, nothing is consistent. I almost positive I have a clogged filter drier and that's screwing things up.
Thanks so much for posting this!! It worked and saved me hundreds $$!!
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching Marc!
This old pensioner loves you, Jeff!
Your video is so helpful
Glad you think so!
Great video and thanks for the detailed explanation. I will use this knowledge to try to fix my unit.
Glad it was helpful!
This was very helpful. We were able to fix the capacitor worked for about 15 minutes then it stopped working again. Any suggestions?
Check the capacitance with a meter if you have one, see if it still has the capacitance, maybe it blew. Maybe you need a hard start capacitor. Is the compressor still humming, but not turning on?
Thanks for this informative and clear video. Relied on it to replace worn out capacitor and fix our own A/C. Very helpful!
Glad to here it worked Chris!
Thanks for the video. I replaced all three of those but the fan will only come on for a second. Any suggestions?
I would like to know the name of the sensor to turn on my hvac fan before the compressor goes on . Thank you
Do you have to have two capacitors for those old rheems?
No many units have one capacitor housing that contains 2 caps, one for the fan and one for the compressor. For whatever reason,. the original installers used 2 separate caps. My configuration of getting the 35 uF cap with the 10 uF cap in the housing was hard to find.
Thank you!!! Simple and clear!
I have this problem here my fan wont turn on thanks for the video stay safe out there.
I hope this video helps you!
So I replaced the capacitor and the fan is now working but I still cant get the house below 87, i hear the compressor humming but it seems the fan cuts on and off quickly (maybe 5 mon run time) not sure the next step to take.
Did you ever figure out what the issue was? @@cjudy1988
Thank you so much.with resen money expenses you save us
Almost bet this is my problem! Thanks Jeff!
have you been able to confirm and fix it:?
Thanks! This is exactly what I had and was able to easily fix it.
Glad it helped Valery!
#Salute that has worked for me in the past. Unfortunately for me my one of my 18 year old units may not be able to be fixed. I tried a spare capacitor from Grainger I had. Then I got a Titan brand one from Ace Hardware today and the unit turned on and spun like new for a few mins then the fan just slowed down and spun slowly with a loud hum. I have ordered a new one from Amazon coming tomorrow morning, hopefully it works. 3 capacitors in 2 days isn't good. Maybe they were bad like some parts are. I'm going to harbor freight to get a new multi meter to test them like you did tonight to see if I can get some information.
Hi, your video is very informative. For my unit, it turns on ok with cold air blowing out and the fan is running. But the fan stop turning after few seconds. What could be the problem. Mind is a Keeprite SSC-31-ID built in 1980's. Thank you
Well I would definitely check the values of the capacitors, and if you have any in line thermal fuse check that as well. But it just sounds to me like the motor for the fan is going luckily you can get the fan yourself for about $100 or so I'm not surprised this have really shot up recently I just haven't looked after COVID
Thanks for a very informative video.
Glad it was helpful!
@jeffostroff Nice video, and thanks for sharing. I just want to point out that your run capacitor had 3 connectors because it was a 35/5 MFD dual run capacitor. This means there was one common connector, with the other two being for the fan and compressor (or Herm) respectively. When you were replacing the capacitor, you didn't need to buy a separate 10 MFD capacitor for the fan. In the past, someone had installed a separate fan capacitor because the main run capacitor's fan side had failed. You measured it as 3.3 MFD, whereas it should have been 5 MFD. The other technician only added a separate capacitor for the fan side but incorrectly used a 10 MFD instead of the required 5 MFD. This was only a makeshift arrangement. However, with your new 35/5 MFD dual-run capacitor, you didn't need to use a separate capacitor for the fan. You could simply connect one wire to the common terminal and the other wire to the fan terminal. You could save $6 while using the original values would likely have made your unit function better.
Good to know thanks! We also replaced this AC with a top of the line Dave Lennox Series, a much better and awesome AC!
how much do contract usually takes to replace a capacitor. Simple job but how much do they usually charge? $150? in year 2022?
Mine looks just like that. I’ve replaced fan motor. Then replace the rectangular part with the button. Next I’ll check the capacitor. Mine doesn’t have the smaller one.
Absolutely wonderful thank you so much man save me some products and very easy to understand
Happy to help james
I have heat pumps and one my outside fan makes a “wom wom wom wom…” (a wom a second). What’s up with that? Also seems like sometimes when the heat is on the outside fan doesn’t come on at all.
you need to provide details on what terminals to test the capacitor on
Awesome video. Thank you sir. In my case the fan starts, runs for a couple mins and than stops. Your thoughts? One thumbs up from this guy
There's so many things that can cause that, starting with the fan itself, or maybe the cap getting ready to go. this web site here has a listing of 15 possible things to try: inspectapedia.com/aircond/Air_Conditioner_Short_Cycling.php
Thanks for the quick reply and the link. Cheers
I know you can find the stuff on Amazon, but is there a trick to getting these HVAC supply houses to sell to a homeowner?
The local one I go to sells to everyone, I assume many will
Please make sure you don't touch the run capacitors before discharging it with an insulated screwdriver. Don't want anyone to get hurt. Also you may have one 'dual run capacitor' which includes capacitors for both compressor and fan in one. Lastly, advise not to put screws loose on top of the unit. You will lose them as hey were about to fall in through the screen once the A/C fired up.
Great Video!
glad to help john!
What if the relay switch is burned? replaced it and compass.and kickstart.unit just hums???
Awesome video. Thank you
You are welcome Peter
Thanks Jeff!!!
Really helpful
Glad you think so Mike!
Is there a reason you bought two capacitors when you could have gotten a single 35uF / 10uF / 370V capacitor for both the fan and the compressor?
I tend to use the same parts that were already in there. They do have dual caps, but on that day when I went in to buy it, they had none in stock of this configuration of 35 uF and 10 uF.
Thanks for this! We have a large bush in our backyard and the dead leaves got wrapped around the fan motor. I’m guessing it burnt up the capacitor.
Yes, that was it. Thank you!
thanks jeffostroff! I am looking at overhauling my AC and it looks just like the one you have pictured. Thanks for your parts list pinned below. I also want to change out the "contactor". i opened mine up and its identical, but unfortunetly the part number has worn away. It "looks" like 9517 honeywell di242r but i could be mistaken. i cant find any part that matches this number. Can i use an atlernative, if so, what? thanks again!!
Awesome. Thank you for sharing🙂
My pleasure 😊
Great video! Good job!
Thanks for the visit Rick
Thank you, very helpful
Thank you so much boss💪
Did the fix work for you?
@@jeffostroff yes sir I appreciate you 🙏
My unit has only one capacitor and the contactor.
I changed both, and it still buzzing and fan no working.
Any idea what it can be?
Excellent video - I have a similar problem and I see the large capacitor (for compressor fan) but can't find the small one for the blower squirl cage? I think it has some kind of cover on the motor. maybe underneath? I think the unit is a Fridgidaire heat pump. Q7RE Series - Most of the time I have to jump through hoops for 15 mins before the squirl cage will finally start (with several false starts). Then I just leave the fan set to ON . The compressor seems to go on & off ok !! I did notice our elec bill last month was like double 😞. Guess I'll try tonight when it's a bit cooler outside (Florida). Damn 5lb mosquitoes will probably find me lol
Is it possible that the large capacitor runs both fans? It's labled C65R (45+7.5)uF+/-5% 370VAC 10000AFC? Sign of the motor cover says Warning - don't take the cover off !! I've been daring before but just thought I'd check. Thanks in advance for any feedback 😊
On mine, the large cap has 2 caps built into it, and it runs both the compressor and the fan
@@ProjectDreamCatcher Yes, his setup is not normal. A single capacitor will have two different capacitance values. He should have a single 35uF / 10uF capacitor. My guess is a repair was made and the HVAC tech didn't have the right capacitor in his truck, but had a separate one that would work for the fan. Therefore he has a weird setup where he has a 35 / 5 capacitor where he doesn't use the 5uF capacitor for his fan (note he doesn't connect anything to one of the connectors on the large capacitor), and then uses a 10uF capacitor for the fan. So you likely have the proper setup with a single capacitor for both.
The capacitor is there to store up and then provide a jolt of electricity to power the start-up of the fan motor and the compressor. If it sometimes doesn't work, or never works, it sounds like it is probably the capacitor.
Look at the two capacitance values on the capacitor and find a single capacitor that matches the two capacitance values and the voltage. Then take a picture of the 4 wires going into the top of the old capacitor (there should be connectors for fan, herm, and C (for common). Should have one wire to fan, one to herm, and two to C. Hook up the new capacitor the same way and it should be good. Turn off the power to the HVAC unit and turn off the system on your thermostat to be safe. Discharge any power in the capacitor by using a screwdriver with an insulated handle to bridge the connectors on the top of the capacitor.
FYI, your fan setting is for the air vent fans, not the cooling fan on the outdoor unit. Setting it to always on will not always run the outdoor fan.
Thank you, good video.
Glad you liked it!
@@jeffostroff Nice Air Conditioning Repair Videos.
Hello there,
I just subscribed.
My hvac is doing the samething and i think your video will solve the issue.
Question. Are capacitors standard size or unit for any hvac?
No each compressor has it's own size, typical sizes are 10 uF, 20uf, 35 uF
@@jeffostroff you know i checked the capacitor and its newly replaced (april 2021). The hvac fan is on and off. Sometimes it would make a humming noise. Not sure if thats something we should be concerned about. Btw, the hvac is from 1994 year old.
Unfortunately, our hvac made a strange noise and i think the water leaked and gave a bad smoke in the backyard. Not sure what to do.
Question. I replaced the dual run cap only 6 months ago. It checks good. wire connection check good. The condenser fan will not kick on every once in a while. It's happened twice about 3 weeks apart. I know it's going to happen again, just don't know when. I'm thinking a winding in the fan motor may be bad and every so often the fan comes to rest on that winding which is the phase winding for the cap. Thoughts?
Check the contactor also, as bugs and leaves and dirt get in there and block the contacts, otherwise likely the fan is on its way out
My ac unit is humming but not nearly as loud. The vents inside are blowing air and I just replaced the capacitor today but the fan still isn’t spinning. Any tips?
Look at the contacts, see if they need cleaning or relay replaced
@@jeffostroff the coloured female connectors?
Good video
Thanks for the visit
Thank you Jeff, I replaced the fan as recommended by the $175 service call. I also replaced the capacitor. Fan still doesn’t spin. Compressor hums but no fan. I spin the fan but it does not work
What next?
Unplug the capacitor, and make sure it is the correct capacitance. Make sure you corrected the correct wires to the correct terminals on the cap. Usually they have a sticker somewhere on the compressor with a wiring diagram so you can confirm that the correct wires for the fan are going to this cap. You might also try adding a hard start capacitor, we have a video on that too..
I need help. Can you please tell me what to do? I have an '89 Ruud that looks a lot like yours. My fan is humming and HOT, but won't spin. Capacitors are good, wiring is correct, I'm getting 240V into the line, contactor depressed when the thermostat calls for cooling, compressor is happily humming and I tested the blower motor's wires (2 "lower" readings (126 & 41) equal exactly the common reading (167). I have a new blower motor and can replace it, but I want to know if that's what needs to be done first. Fan blades spin freely when pushed, but it only hums and gets wicked hot fast. Are those readings for the fan wires too low? I'm just a stay at home mom with zero hvac experience and can't afford an hvac tech. Don't worry, I'm crazy about safety! Please help me. Thanks for reading!
I had to replace the fan motor twice in 17 years that I owned my AC. It's about $120. I bet that is the issue. also check contactor for leaves, insects, and others that will prevent full voltage getting through.
@@jeffostroff Thank you!!!! I've gently vacuumed out all the electrical parts/contactor. Would air duster be a good idea too, or not? I went ahead and took off the old motor (fan blade was fun! ha), got the new motor in and wires connected. Tomorrow I've got a new fan cap coming so I'm hoping it starts right up once I get it in. Thanks again! I really appreciate your quick reply
Update! Fan was CCW and I noticed it was blowing the wrong way after a couple minutes of running, so I swapped the 2 wires to get it spinning clockwise and it sounds perfect. However, now I'm worried about the compressor because it got wicked hot after an hour last night so I turned it off for 12 hours. I'm sure it's low on r22, but so far it's running and not overheating. I hope I can get an honest tech out here asap because I'm definitely not qualified to work on or recharge a compressor.
I was able to get the fan to start spinning with a long plastic stick after repeated attempts.
I noticed the fan surface in the center of the shield was very warm though, which suggests to me, the problem is the fan motor?
Your thoughts?
Symptom was a buzzing every few minutes, but no spinning fan. I got it to spin with the plastic stick, but I don't think it got up to normal speed. We have 2 compressors and the other smaller ones fan seems to have higher rpm for sure.
And it's still buzzing periodically, but the fan is spinning.
If you had to push the fan to get it going, then your fan motor appears to be ready to go. I would start looking for the part locally and checking the prices to see who has it for the lowest price, and be ready to pounce. these things like to fail at 5:59 PM, before you can get to the parts warehouse at 6 PM closing, then you have a nice long hot night ahead of you.
My fan is doing the same thing ever figure out what it was
Thanks a lot 😁
You're welcome 😊
big help!
Glad it was helpful Jim!
You just saved me $200+
Awesome Leif, glad to hear it, and thanks for watching our video!
I took mine compacitor out and it has no label on it. I think its the original one with thr label on show tt10000 sh1238 from aerovox. I called reheem and they told me its 50/5 370v . I went out ac hardware i bought that and it foesnt work. What should i do
Well I changed the capacitor and it worked. Then stopped again next day. Fan wire to the board looked burnt lol. I cut wire and repaired it and I hear the noise but it’s every 30 seconds only.. I tried spinning the fan but it won’t go. Any ideas? Thanks!!
IT could be the motor is wearing it out, you might have to replace the fan motor. I have done this on my own AC units at home twice, and one on each of 2 different condos I own, it is a common problem. Replace it yourself for $100 cost of the fan. The Ac companies will charge you $300 to $400. Also check the relay, make sur eit is clean and not rusty, and look for bugs in and around the relay and under it, clean out all bugs and leaves, that sometimes prevents the relay from making ocntact.
Could the compresson go bad or the fan in the unit if it was running like this overnight? In the evening, when i went to sleep, it worked fine, but in the morning, when i woke up, it was buzzing.
Yes so the compressor could be working late at night when it's cooler and you go to bed but remember that it is turning on and off several times during the night and that will heat up the compressor to the point now that it's so hot it wants to seize and that's what you see in the morning when you get up and you see that the compressor is not on it's just humming.
Had the loud hum like at the beginning, replaced the capitator with the same type, didn't fix it, still hummed, replaced the contactor with same type, still hummed, no fan movement - replaced the fan with the same type - now, still not working and NO HUM. Have tested all capacitor and contactor parts by swapping with the downstairs unit that's identical, and they work in down in the downstairs unit so it's not them. Tested the fan with OHM meter and it tests okay. Ideas?
I’ve read that if the refrigerant is also low it will cause the same issue. Before the capacitors there is a junction. in that junction there is a small switch that goes up and down to pass the 24V. if that switch is stuck it will also cause the same problem. I believe the the small switch is in the up position and when it goes down it is supposed to complete the circuit turning on the unit outside.